Original subtitles

Wow.

You know, my whole life, I grew up as

a very proud Mexican American in Texas.

But my dad always spoke about our Spanish heritage.

"We're from Spain. We're from Spain."

So I decided to do a DNA test.

And it turns out I am Spanish.

And not any old Spanish.

I come from nobility here in Asturias,

and this chapel was built by my ancestors hundreds of years ago.

I'm Eva Longoria.

11 generations ago, one of my ancestors

left Spain for the New World and a new life.

400 years later, I'm back.

I'm so excited! - ¡Salud!

And I'm exploring Spain and its 17 regions

to see how the land and its people

have created one of the world's most exciting cuisines.

I think you know what you're doing.

I'm in Asturias and it's hard to believe this is Spain.

This is stunning.

Forget sun, sea, and sangria.

It's wet, wild, and mountainous.

You're just like, "Where am I?"

Living here takes effort--

...and teamwork.

What?! We're gonna be here forever.

And even a rebellious streak

that could be in our shared DNA.

I was the black sheep of my family.

- Me, too. - I'm sure you were.

Asturians have learned to make the most

of their rugged home.

And their food, like the people,

is hearty, unpretentious--

and made with love. Oh, wow.

But Asturias has a tiny population that's shrinking,

and only a few choose to stay and take on the stormy seas

and unforgiving peaks.

Those that do are rewarded with produce

that lifts Spain's gastronomy to new heights--

Mm. Wow.

This isn't a cave, this is a hole!

...And occasionally, hidden depths.

I'm going down.

It's crazy to think how few people have heard of Asturias.

Gracias.

Yet, this is where Spain's story began.

Asturias sits on the northernmost tip

of the Iberian Peninsula,

wedged between the Bay of Biscay

and the Cantabrian Mountains.

It was these mountains

that help the Asturians push back the invading Moors,

establishing a stronghold

that some say was the origin of the Reconquista,

the birth of Christian Spain.

But they also worship at another altar,-- the cider bar.

- So good to see you. - How are you?

Good. So happy to be here.

Back in Asturias with you.

Pablo Albuerne has cooked his way around the world,

earning the nickname the Gipsy Chef.

But his heart is here in Asturias.

I say that I'm more Asturian than an apple--

Okay?

Apple is the main ingredient needed, the only one,

for cider. - Yeah, cider.

And there's no good welcome in Asturias without cider.

- Without cider. - This is very important.

Well, you better welcome me well, then.

Of course! Let's go for the cider.

Cider to the Asturians is like wine to the French

or tequila to the Mexicans.

It's been their favorite drink of choice for over 2,000 years,

and they even have their own word for the way you pour it--

Escanciado.

The bottle is served with just one glass,

traditionally, all that families could afford.

- Can I do it? - Ah!

So everyone gets a turn at pouring.

You put your arm as high as possible.

- Right. - Okay?

Then you put back the glass.

Why like that?

Because you want the liquid to cross over here.

- You want it to crash? - Yes.

Got it. As the cider crashes down,

carbon dioxide is released, producing a momentary fizz--

Okay. Higher, higher, higher, higher.

I'm short, that's as high as it goes.

...even with my arm-to-glass ratio.

- Ah! - And then you need to drink.

Do you like it? - Yes, but it's a lot.

I have to drink it all? - Yes.

It tastes like kombucha, like something fermented.

- Yeah. - But you can taste the apple.

That'd be dangerous. We drank too much.

- Here we go. - Oh my God.

Wow.

This is kind of pâté made with fish.

Thank you.

The Asturians compliment the cider with some hearty bites.

Mm. Cheers.

- Mm. - Oh.

This is so good. I'm gonna like it here.

Let's have the last cider before we...

But even with snacks, it's a heady brew.

No more for you.

Though cider is popular in the cities,

it was traditionally made and drunk by farmers,

making the most of their bumper crop.

This house is a family's that make cider here in Asturias.

Oh, wow.

We are going to meet a very close friend,

Tano Collada and his family.

They make one of the best homemade ciders you can taste.

- Really? - Yeah. You will see.

Villaviciosa is cider country.

The humid microclimate here

creates a magical mist known as the orbayu,

which, coupled with the acidic soil,

gives birth to the delicious Asturian apple.

Hola!

- Hi, Tano. - Hi, Pablo. Hi.

- Oh, nice to meet you. - Nice to meet you.

Oh, my God, it takes a lot of people.

- Yeah. - Do you want me to work?

- Yeah. - Okay.

Tano and his cousins are fourth generation cider makers.

They use a process dating back to medieval times

to press their apple crop into cider.

And not to sell, but to drink.

That's you and your family?

So you drink everything you make?

How many kilos?

What?!

- Oh my God! - To fill one barrel?

- We're gonna be here forever. - Yeah.

The apples are crushed into small pieces

and then spread out in the hopper before being pressed.

The juice ferments for about six months

before the personalized barrels are shared

with family and friends.

I want the barrel to have my name on it now.

I think my ancestors would be proud of my efforts,

and I certainly like my reward.

- Oh, that's not sweet at all. - It's a little bitter.

- Yeah. - But it's so refreshing.

Does it go bad ever?

And then after three years, you would have to throw it out?

Oh, you're not throwing out, drinking,

- For sure. - You just have to drink it.

I love that, like, throwing it out is not an option.

- No, no, no, no. - Hurry up. We gotta drink it.

Oh, this is gorgeous!

The Asturians don't just create the cider together,

they enjoy the cider together.

And it's not raining anymore.

No, it's Asturias with sun.

Pablo and I are joining the family

for a community celebration known as an espicha.

- Buenas tardes. - Wow.

- Look at these barrels! - Look at the size, huh?

Yes.

It might look like a super sized keg party,

but before cider was bottled,

cider mills were the only place you could drink it.

Oh, it's a spout, okay. That's why it's called an espicha!

Yes, you get it.

Traditionally, the party was to taste

the first cider of the season.

Oh my God, oh my. Oh my God!

I was like, where's he going?

But nowadays the Asturians don't need an excuse.

Yeah.

- Oh! - Cider master.

Ah!

With barrels this big, we need some sizable snacks

and I can't get enough of the succulent pork

with apple chutney and hearty ham croquettes.

Perfect now.

Proving he really can cook anywhere,

Pablo has prepared Asturian chorizo

and cider tacos with guacamole.

The food is ready!

As good as any in Mexico.

Oh my God. - Wow.

That's the best pork I've ever had. In my life.

It's good, huh?

The perfect combination. Did you try the taco?

I'm excited to explore this region through its food,

because it feels like it says a lot.

Just looking at the landscape, it takes your breath away.

You're just like, "Where am I?"

- This is beautiful. - Oh, you need to cut this.

I'm in heaven.

Cider, tacos, and an empanada with my name on it.

Literally.

It could be the alcohol,

but I think I can feel my Asturian blood

pumping through my veins.

Viva Asturias!

Now I understand why it's called rural Paradise.

This is stunning .

Driving through Asturias' limestone mountain range

feels otherworldly.

The 8,000 foot high peaks loom through the mist,

easily rivaling the Alps or the Dolomites in their grandeur.

This is the Picos de Europa National Park,

near the mountain town of Asiego.

For years the mountains were home

to Asturias' mining industry,

the lifeblood of the rural community.

Now, the mines are closed,

but I'm on the scent of another precious commodity

hidden deep in these hills, just waiting to be unearthed.

Alejo. - Hey, Eva.

Como estás?

- How are you? - Good.

How are you? - Very good.

Welcome to the land of cheese.

The land of cheese. Do I get one of these?

- Yes, you will need it. - I will? -Yes.

When it comes to dairy, Asturias is the big cheese,

boasting the best quality milk in Spain

and a cheese making industry to rival France.

Oh, look at all the cows!

And I'm milking food journalist Alejo for their secrets.

Hey, Rocio.

- Hola. - Hola.

Rocio makes the intensely tangy Cabrales,

considered to be one of the world's greatest blue cheeses.

Crafted by hand, it can only be made

on these mountains from the cows

that feed on the lush pasture here.

But it's not just the conditions on top

of the mountain that give the cheese its distinct flavor.

All the mountains are limestone.

That means that inside the mountains is full of caves.

And because Asturias has a really rainy season,

all the rain is dripping inside the caves and it's creating a...

Like a really humid environment.

- You're right. - For the cheese.

Legend has it that the first Cabrales was created

when a farmer was distracted by a shepherdess,

abandoned his milk in a cave, and returned to find it

transformed into delicious blue cheese.

However it began,

the cheese caves are now so valuable

that they're passed down through generations.

Wow.

Women always do things better.

The art of cheese making

was traditionally more suited for a woman

because it fit around bringing up a family.

Oh my God, so we have to put these on.

That's how dark it is in there? - Yeah.

But this is challenging work.

Oh, I feel like a miner.

God, this isn't a cave this is a hole!

I'm going down.

If this is Rocio's regular commute,

this cheese must be pretty special.

Oh, wow.

The mold doesn't get only in the surface,

but it gets inside.

So we get Penicillium naturally.

The Penicillium that gives the cheese its flavor

is a strain of the mold that produces antibiotics.

Most blue cheeses have to be injected with it,

but Cabrales caves grow their own naturally.

Oh my God, look at that.

That's the penicillin? The blue.

Okay.

Oh that's nice.

It's like salty.

Mm. This is so good! Wow.

This is what I've been doing wrong all my life.

I haven't been eating Asturian blue cheese.

While Rocio is in charge of the cheese making,

Pablo looks after the herd on the hills.

And here in the home.

Oh my gosh. Meat with cheese!

This is pure indulgence.

Rich Cabrales cheese and cream sauce

generously poured over juicy steak.

Let me get some of this.

Simple, but full of flavor.

Oh, wow.

I love that. It tastes like tangy and umami.

Oh my gosh.

Rocio and Pablo's hard work is paying off,

as their organic Cabrales

sells out as fast as they can make it.

But although they have chosen to continue the tradition

of their ancestors, they are the exception,

as many young Asturians are flocking to the cities.

What happens if the tradition disappears?

It's taken passion and perseverance

to turn this family tradition into a modern artisan business.

And Rocio and Pablo

are leading the way as the new generation of cheese makers.

I'm about to meet this amazing singer, Rodrigo Cuevas.

They say he's a cross between Freddie Mercury and Bob Dylan.

And he doesn't live in a big city.

He lives in the Asturian countryside.

Folk diva Rodrigo is one of Spain's most influential

and provocative music stars,

combining classic Asturian folk melodies

with contemporary electronic music.

But he's also the front man for a growing Asturian movement,

encouraging his followers to embrace rural living.

There are over 600 abandoned villages in Asturias,

particularly around the former mining areas

to the center and the south.

Here in Baselgas, there are just eight residents.

This is beautiful.

Why did people leave these

beautiful houses and countryside?

For decades, coal mining powered Asturias'

rural economy and culture.

And as the industry boomed, the region bustled with life.

But in the 1970s,

Spain began the move towards renewable energy.

And from 100,000 miners in its heyday

the very last coal mine recently closed.

Now, in some rural areas of Asturias,

you're more likely to encounter a bear

than someone under the age of 16.

Yeah. And so what made you want to move back?

Because I think the city is so boring.

For those who do return to the countryside,

it's an opportunity to revive traditional farming.

Oh, wow. This is beautiful.

The Xalda are one of the oldest breeds in Spain,

but the rise of more commercial herds

has left them on the edge of extinction.

I was the black sheep of my family.

- And me, too. - I'm sure you were.

I feel like I'm in a fairy tale.

Xandru.

The Xalda belonged to Rodrigo's friends,

Paz and Xandru.

As well as filling their bellies,

the sheep help Paz to make a living,

knitting and weaving traditional clothing.

Wow, it's so soft!

Their hórreo, or pantry,

is also packed full of homemade sauces

and preserved foods.

This really is the definition of farm to table living.

I love it. You're, like, preserving culture.

Hola!

Of course, this DIY philosophy extends to dinner.

On the menu? You guessed it-- Xalda lamb.

I think we all know which liquid.

You can smell the cider.

It's already marinated.

- Four days! - Wow!

Ah, these are all my favorite veggies.

While the lamb simmers in cider,

a sofrito of onion, peppers, and leeks is fried off--

Is anybody else crying?

...before being tossed into the pot,

along with a little more of the good stuff.

See you in a couple of hours.

While the lamb braises, I'm perfecting my escanciado.

Bravo!

Because what else would we serve with the Xalda stew?

Look at that, it just falls right off the bone.

Look at how juicy that is.

Wow. That is the smoothest lamb.

Yeah. Oh yeah. It's not fatty.

This call to action won't suit everyone.

A rural lifestyle takes serious grit.

But by living off the land, Rodrigo and his friends

are developing a sustainable gastronomy steeped in tradition

and one that happens to be delicious.

That's so good.

To the south of Asturias, the mountains are king,

but head north,

and it's this region's 250 miles of coastline

that reigns supreme.

The shallow and famously rough seas of the Bay of Biscay

make the fishing village of Viavélez

the place for Chef Elio Fernández to hook a prize catch.

What Elio likes, unusually, is grey mullet,

traditionally overlooked because

if not handled carefully, it can have a muddy taste.

Elio is making waves in Asturias,

fighting for the forgotten fish and showcasing seafood

that is often discarded

to encourage more sustainable fishing.

Elio's Michelin star restaurant, Ferpel,

is now the place to try fish

previously considered undesirable,

like the grey mullet.

Oh! Wow!

But he's had to push to make the change.

When Elio took over,

he swapped the standard croquettes and calamari menu

for a more adventurous take on local produce--

like this fun play on a taco

featuring caramelized pig's trotter stew

crisped into a tortilla shape,

filled with these small but powerful Cantabrian prawns--

Mm! Wow.

...that were once only used as bait.

"You're gonna ruin the restaurant!" Yeah.

Mm-hm.

Now, I love Asturias' traditional rustic cuisine.

But there's something exciting and fresh happening here.

The grey mullet.

The black sheep of the sea.

Gorse was traditionally used in Asturias to heat bread ovens,

and the smokiness softens the mullet's earthy taste.

By going against the grain and serving the mullet

thinly sliced like sashimi, drizzled with the smoky oil,

Elio has given it a subtle new flavor.

Mm. It's so smooth and subtle.

Very tasty.

Elio's clever preparations have breathed new life

into these unsung heroes, like mullet and fish roe,

and netted the sustainable seafood a boatload of new fans.

I feel like this dish perfectly reflects the characteristics

of someone from Asturias.

Bravo!

If there's one name that really puts Asturias

on the foodie map, it's the Manzano family.

For over 30 years, Nacho and his siblings

have pushed gastronomic boundaries

with their innovative take on traditional Asturian cuisine.

Their flagship restaurant, Casa Marcial,

is set on the edge of the Sueve Hunting Reserve,

part of an untouched ancient forest,

and they recently won their third Michelin star.

I've got a reservation for lunch,

but first I have to catch it.

Asturias' medieval woodlands have witnessed

hunters chasing prey for more than a thousand years.

And this morning, I'm heading to the Sueve Nature Reserve--

...with the youngest star of this famous gastronomic family,

their Development Chef, Chus.

- My friends. - Hola!

Like me, Chus has hunting in his blood.

His mentor was Grandpa Marcial,

who founded their family restaurant.

Yeah. So that's why you hunt jabalí?

- Yeah. - Because there's just too many.

Sí, sí.

The jabalí, or wild boar,

has long made its home in these woods,

happily living off fallen hazelnuts and chestnuts.

But with no natural predators and rural de-population,

there are now 80,000 of them running wild.

Where the pigs are.

- Of the pigs? - Yeah.

Oh, yeah, I see them. Yeah.

Right there. So that's what they're smelling, right?

These tenacious Griffon hunting dogs

can track game for five hours straight.

He's like, "I found it!"

He's saying, "Bingo!"

But thankfully, we don't have to wait that long.

Okay. Release the hounds!

Hy-ah! Hy-ah!

When I grew up in Texas,

hunting was really a way of life.

My family, we didn't do it for sport.

And I find that's how it is here in Asturias.

You guys live on the land you take from the land,

but you give back to the land.

And I think that's a beautiful philosophy.

Yeah.

This deep rooted tradition

helps to keep the wild boar in check.

It also provides a valuable food source.

If you can catch it.

When they're barking like that, they found a pig?

Yeah, they found it.

Today the wily boar got away.

But back at Casa Marcial, Chus is cooking one

from a previous hunt.

And it's getting the Michelin star treatment.

After hanging for four days to days to mature,

it's lovingly marinated in wine and herbs

before being sautéed with onion, peppers, and garlic

to make a rich traditional stew.

But these are the Manzanos,

so you know there's going to be a twist.

The kitchen of creativity!

Yep, Chus has turned the dish into an homage

to the boar itself.

The things that he would destroy.

Exactly. Corn, beans, walnuts, apples, mushrooms.

- The rampage of the jabalí. - Exactly.

Okay. What do we start with?

I know how to use a knife.

Where did you learn this recipe?

And has your grandmother eaten this recipe?

She does not approve of the Of the Michelin star jabalí.

He might have some work to do to impress Grandma,

but Chus is making his mark.

His latest addition to the dish is homemade corn gnocchi.

Wow.

Ooh, the garden, yes!

Okay.

What a beautiful day.

Did you order this weather for me?

I think I brought this weather.

All right.

Mm! That is exciting.

This jabalí is amazingly soft and it's not gamey.

It's so good.

What was it like growing up in the country

as opposed to growing up in a big city?

They have to YouTube how to fish.

- Yeah. - How to fish?

Yeah, exactly.

Hunting has been part of Asturian culture for centuries.

And in this dish,

Chus has managed to find the perfect balance

between respecting the past and embracing new inspiration.

I think the Manzano name is in safe hands.

Muchas gracias, Chusi.

So today I am visiting my town, literally my town,

the town of Longoria.

And the crazy thing is,

I wouldn't be here if it wasn't for my ancestor Lorenzo,

who was just 11 years old

when he left his family behind to travel to the Americas.

The Longoria lands stretch three miles

along the Narcea River Valley.

And I'm headed to Casa de Longoria,

just outside the town of Longoria.

Incredibly, some of the Longoria family still live here

11 generations later.

I get to visit long-lost family,

share stories, share history, and of course, share food.

Luis and his mother, Marife,

are descendants of the family Lorenzo left behind.

Okay, I'm not expecting to move in,

but this palatial home built on the site

of an even older Longoria house,

has been in my family for over 150 years.

Oh my God.

All of these photos, are they my family?

The story goes that the Longoria lands

were handed down to my ancestors

by the kings of Asturias in the eighth century.

Wow.

We might rub shoulders with royalty.

Oh, my God, this looks like a guest house!

When in Asturias, even the nobles have to work the land.

The fava bean, along with corn,

came over from the Americas in the 16th century.

The lush river valley soil here

provided the perfect growing conditions

and the Longorias got rich cultivating it.

Look at this!

Fabada, Asturias' signature dish,

is a deliciously rich stew made with cured pork.

Okay.

Wow, it's so simple.

The rich flavor of fabada

comes from three types of pork--

morcilla, ham, and chorizo.

Wow it's, like, really smoked.

In this damp and humid part of Spain,

meat is traditionally cured with smoke,

giving it a taste that's distinctively Asturian.

The secret to a great fabada

is to keep it simmering for a couple of hours.

And I'm learning a Longoria twist.

Oh, it makes it softer.

The fabada is served family style,

with the meat and beans plated separately.

And I can promise you, it smells incredible.

And I get to share it with my new family, including

Luis's girlfriend Sara, and another relative, Antonio.

Oh my God, this smells so good.

Mm. Oh my gosh.

It's hard to believe something so simple

can taste so delicious.

We scared them plenty, so they'd be soft.

And to have this ancestral connection

with my favorite Spanish dish is very special.

Oh my God, I love a family tree.

Oh, there I am at the bottom.

Wow. That's where it all started for me.

How funny that I went from Asturias all the way,

Mexico, Texas, United States, and now...

I'm back in Spain.

Let me take a photo. Let's take a photo.

Oh, this has been such a homecoming for me.

I can't help but imagine my ancestor Lorenzo

leaving this paradise.

And even though it's physically a beautiful paradise,

it's very hard living.

And I've found the Asturian people to be very resilient,

very hard working, but also very humble, with no ego,

and it really shows in their food.

¡Salud! - ¡Salud!

¡Salud!

Asturias was always in my blood,

but now it's in my heart.

It feels like I've come home.