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{\an8}♪♪
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[ Engine revs ]
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{\an8}♪♪
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-Have you ever dined
in a restaurant?
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Cafe. Brasserie.
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Maybe you've ordered an entree
off the menu.
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Something sauteed. Soufflé.
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Flambé.
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Or maybe you were recommended
some wine via sommelier.
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And for dessert,
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maybe you've had a patisserie
or a crepe prepared by a chef.
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I could go on and on,
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but you get the point.
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It's impossible to overstate
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how much modern dining
owes to France.
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-There goes the fries.
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-I'm Eva Longoria,
and I'm a serious Francophile.
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Santé.
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Over the past 20 years,
my career as an actor
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has brought me to France
time and again.
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It's my home away from home.
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But those trips were more
about work than joie de vivre.
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[ Cheers ]
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Now I want something deeper.
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This is going to be
an adventure.
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So I'm setting out
to really experience France.
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-This is Cabernet Sauvignon.
-[ Gasps ] That's my favorite.
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To savor its
world-celebrated cuisine...
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Wow!
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...and explore the country's
rich history.
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Vive la France!
[ Laughs ]
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Now I'm doing a deep dive into
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how French gastronomy rose
to dominate the globe
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and epitomized great food.
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Before the strictness
of its culinary rule book
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sowed the seeds of discontent.
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-That changed the course
of French food history.
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-But this is no
stuffy school lesson.
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You know me. I love to eat.
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This plate is paradise.
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-Paradise.
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-This story is told
in the form of an unforgettable,
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classic seven-course meal.
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-Seven was the magic number.
-Really?
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And with the help
of my special guests.
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How are you?
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Not to mention
some top French chefs.
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-[ Laughs ]
-[ Laughs ]
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-We'll find out
how one man made French cuisine
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the global gold standard.
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-Escoffier is the most
celebrated chef of that period.
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-Why some chefs rebelled
against this legacy.
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-I wasn't born when someone
made up this rule, you know.
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-So...
-Why not change it?
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And how France is still seen
as the mother of all cuisines.
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Mothers make things better.
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You need the mother
for all things.
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-I'm sold.
-Sold.
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{\an8}♪♪
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{\an8}♪♪
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{\an8}♪♪
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-I just can't stay away
from Paris.
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Stretching along the banks
of the Seine,
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much of the history
of French cuisine starts here.
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Today I'm going on
a unique culinary voyage.
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And when I say voyage,
I'm not kidding.
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All aboard!
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I'm about to set sail
along this majestic river
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on the state-of-the-art
floating restaurant
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run by one of the world's
greatest chefs, Alain Ducasse.
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And joining me
on this culinary adventure
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is another master of French
cuisine, Chef Eric Ripert.
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-Bonjour, Eric.
-Bonjour.
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-How are you?
-Very good.
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-Oh.
-Great to see you.
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-Good to see you.
Thank you for coming.
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-I'm so happy to be here.
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We're gonna have a great dinner.
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-It's gonna be nice.
-It's going to be so nice.
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-I think we're
gonna have fun, too.
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-We are gonna have fun.
Wait till we get drinking.
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-Oh, yeah. Yeah.
Of course. In five minutes.
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-In five...
-[ Laughter ]
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-Hailed as one of the world's
best restaurants,
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Eric's Le Bernardin was
among the first
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to win three Michelin stars
in New York,
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which he's held for 20 years.
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What age did you start?
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-15, in culinary school. 17,
I was in Paris in restaurant.
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-Wow.
-Hello.
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-Oh, my gosh.
Thank you for coming.
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-I'm so happy to be here.
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-Bonjour, Chef.
-Bonjour.
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-Ca va.
-Ravie, ravie.
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-My other guest is fellow
American food and culture writer
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Lindsay Tramuta, who I met on
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the Paris leg
of my French journey.
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It's going to be an exciting day
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because we're not only
going to be eating our way
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through the history
of French cuisine,
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we're going to be cruising
down the Seine.
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-Spectacular.
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-Look at that.
It's so amazing.
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-Welcome aboard.
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Can I offer you a glass
of champagne as an aperitif?
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-Thank you.
-Merci.
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-Wow.
-Santé, Santé.
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-I hope these guys are hungry
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because we're about
to eat seven courses.
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The traditional number
for a formal French meal.
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Why seven courses?
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When did this formality
of coursing out a meal begin?
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-It has been an evolution.
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Before it was everything
on the table.
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-Like a buffet?
-Like a buffet.
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And everything was cold
at the end.
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And in the 19th century,
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Escoffier refined the idea
of the evolution of your menu.
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And seven was the magic number.
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-I think I'll be hearing
Escoffier's name a lot today.
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{\an8}He transformed fine dining from
a jumble of different plates
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{\an8}all at once to a sequence of
distinct complementary courses
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{\an8}to create an elegant
gastronomic journey.
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-Escoffier is like the--
-The godfather of the rules?
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-Yes.
-He set the rules?
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-Yeah.
-Definitely.
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-Well,
we should check out the menus.
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-Ah, sure.
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-Yes. Let's see.
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One. Two. Three.
Four. Five. Six. Seven.
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{\an8}♪♪
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Our seven-course feast has been
designed by Alain Ducasse's
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on board team to tell
the gripping story
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of French cuisine.
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{\an8}♪♪
136
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-Head Chef
Jean-Philippe Behrens
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is launching our
culinary journey
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with two contrasting
appetizers or amuse bouche.
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{\an8}♪♪
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You know what I love?
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I love many things
about French cuisine,
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but what I love is
an amuse bouche.
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This concept of entertaining
your mouth before we even begin.
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-The idea is
to tease you a little bit.
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-Yeah. Yeah.
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-It's to prepare
your palate, too.
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-As well. Yes.
-For what's to come.
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-Yeah.
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-And you can start to drink
wine, which is a good idea.
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-Also an amuse bouche.
-It's an amuse bouche for sure.
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-Yes.
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Not just to tickle
our taste buds,
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our amuse bouche are
a glimpse of what lies ahead,
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symbolizing two key moments
in French culinary history.
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First up is quenelle
with Nantua sauce.
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Made from a sea bream mousse,
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these light dumplings
are grilled till golden
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and served with
a rich crayfish sauce.
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Oh! It has a sauce.
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{\an8}♪♪
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-That is lovely.
-Yes. It's very mild.
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-Yeah.
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-It's very delicate.
It's like a pillow.
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-Mm-hmm.
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-A light pillow
of seafood, right?
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-Yeah.
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-And then it goes
very well with the sauce.
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-Yeah. What's the sauce Nantua?
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-So Nantua is a sauce
with béchamel
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and a reduction of crayfish
that gives you this color.
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And this fantastic flavor.
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-Typically made with pike,
quenelle with sauce Nantua
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{\an8}epitomize
the 19th century heyday
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{\an8}of haute cuisine defined
by Auguste Escoffier's
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{\an8}classic dishes with rich sauces.
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-That's another hallmark
of haute cuisine,
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is, you know,
a lot of cream, butter.
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So the fact that it has béchamel
is like, classic.
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-I want ten more of these.
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-That when they succeed, they're
really teasing your taste buds.
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-Yeah.
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In contrast,
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our second sea bream dish
is stripped back with no sauce,
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just pieces
of raw fish marinated in salt,
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sugar and lemon
and dressed with caviar.
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Oh, my God, this one's so good.
187
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-It's really good.
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-Mmm.
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There's a great pop
in your mouth from the caviar.
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-Mm-hmm, the caviar, of course
brings a luxury to the dish.
191
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And the dorade is so fresh you
can serve it like this.
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In the '70s,
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chefs decided to honor
the quality of the ingredients.
194
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So the product has to be very,
very fresh.
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-Mm-hmm.
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This simple dish represents
the late 20th century backlash
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against haute cuisine when
chefs rejected the status quo,
198
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moving to lighter,
fresher cooking.
199
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How did the French
cuisine community react
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when new things were being done?
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Because I consider French food
so by the rules and very rigid.
202
00:08:54,534 --> 00:08:56,745
-Yes, it was a revolution.
203
00:08:56,786 --> 00:08:58,997
-A number of chefs
really pioneered this.
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That period was very much
about letting the flavors
205
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of the product really shine.
206
00:09:06,212 --> 00:09:07,630
-Wow.
207
00:09:07,672 --> 00:09:09,174
I can't believe that was
just the amuse bouche.
208
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I also like that we've moved
through the history
209
00:09:11,634 --> 00:09:13,636
a bit with just
the amuse bouche.
210
00:09:13,678 --> 00:09:15,680
-Yes.
-It's a good teaser.
211
00:09:15,722 --> 00:09:18,224
-Yeah, it's a good teaser
of what's to come.
212
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Off to our next course.
Only six more to go.
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-I'm ready.
214
00:09:23,480 --> 00:09:27,192
{\an8}♪♪
215
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{\an8}♪♪
216
00:09:32,906 --> 00:09:35,033
-And we're off.
-Oh, look at this.
217
00:09:35,116 --> 00:09:36,451
-Oh, yes.
-And we're off.
218
00:09:36,534 --> 00:09:38,119
-So special.
-We're moving.
219
00:09:38,203 --> 00:09:39,579
-It's nice.
I mean, look at this.
220
00:09:39,662 --> 00:09:41,164
-Fantastic.
221
00:09:41,206 --> 00:09:44,125
-My guests, Eric, Lindsay,
and I are setting sail
222
00:09:44,209 --> 00:09:46,878
on our voyage
through culinary history,
223
00:09:46,961 --> 00:09:50,381
starting all the way back
in the 17th century.
224
00:09:50,423 --> 00:09:53,635
You can't cruise down the Seine
without making some waves.
225
00:09:53,718 --> 00:09:56,096
And the same can be said
for the first
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00:09:56,179 --> 00:09:59,849
French culinary influencer,
Louis the 14th.
227
00:09:59,891 --> 00:10:03,478
He propelled
French gastronomy so far forward
228
00:10:03,561 --> 00:10:05,396
like no other before him.
229
00:10:05,438 --> 00:10:08,900
{\an8}♪♪
230
00:10:08,983 --> 00:10:12,153
In fact, Louis the 14th
is such a big deal,
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the team are dedicating
two courses to his story.
232
00:10:15,615 --> 00:10:17,325
For the soup course,
233
00:10:17,367 --> 00:10:20,078
Chef Behrens is making a
lobster bisque with juicy chunks
234
00:10:20,120 --> 00:10:25,041
of lobster tail dressed with
ginger, red onion and basil.
235
00:10:25,083 --> 00:10:26,292
Well, let's sit. Come and sit.
236
00:10:26,376 --> 00:10:27,418
-Okay.
-Okay.
237
00:10:27,460 --> 00:10:28,545
-So we can have our next course.
238
00:10:28,586 --> 00:10:34,259
{\an8}♪♪
239
00:10:34,300 --> 00:10:36,594
Merci beaucoup. Wow.
240
00:10:36,678 --> 00:10:38,596
The bisque base is smothered
241
00:10:38,680 --> 00:10:40,223
with an intense lobster broth
242
00:10:40,265 --> 00:10:43,226
combined with lightly
whipped cream.
243
00:10:43,268 --> 00:10:45,061
Look at that color.
244
00:10:45,103 --> 00:10:48,148
-Yes.
-I love anything with cream.
245
00:10:48,231 --> 00:10:51,526
Let's taste this.
246
00:10:51,609 --> 00:10:54,195
Mmm. Mm.
247
00:10:54,279 --> 00:10:56,823
That cream makes it
a little bit tart.
248
00:10:56,906 --> 00:10:58,283
-Brings a little bit
of lightness.
249
00:10:58,366 --> 00:11:00,660
The illusion of lightness
in a dish.
250
00:11:00,743 --> 00:11:02,287
This is really delicious.
251
00:11:02,370 --> 00:11:05,165
-Mm-hmm.
-Louis the 14th loved seafood.
252
00:11:05,248 --> 00:11:08,793
So this dish would have been
most likely a second course
253
00:11:08,835 --> 00:11:13,131
during a big banquet.
254
00:11:13,173 --> 00:11:16,759
-A food lover, Louis the 14th,
known as the Sun King,
255
00:11:16,801 --> 00:11:19,554
transformed messy
medieval style dining
256
00:11:19,637 --> 00:11:21,598
at the Palace of Versailles.
257
00:11:21,639 --> 00:11:24,976
Introducing new customs
like serving food at the table
258
00:11:25,018 --> 00:11:26,644
in elaborate displays.
259
00:11:26,686 --> 00:11:29,939
{\an8}♪♪
260
00:11:29,981 --> 00:11:32,483
Why was Louis the 14th
so formal?
261
00:11:32,525 --> 00:11:35,320
-When he was inviting
some head of states
262
00:11:35,403 --> 00:11:37,197
from other countries,
263
00:11:37,280 --> 00:11:40,617
he wanted to show off
the culture of France.
264
00:11:40,658 --> 00:11:43,953
{\an8}♪♪
265
00:11:43,995 --> 00:11:47,498
-He really set a standard
for not only formal dining,
266
00:11:47,540 --> 00:11:49,834
but it was a form
of political theater.
267
00:11:49,918 --> 00:11:52,462
-Right, to show
an image of power.
268
00:11:52,503 --> 00:11:54,672
Central to the pomp
of these banquets
269
00:11:54,714 --> 00:11:56,758
were beautifully
presented dishes,
270
00:11:56,841 --> 00:11:59,344
with the fish course
often a high point.
271
00:11:59,385 --> 00:12:02,931
So I want to see
how the team are preparing ours.
272
00:12:03,014 --> 00:12:05,850
-Bonjour, Chef.
-Bonjour, Eva.
273
00:12:12,482 --> 00:12:14,943
{\an8}-Stéphane Duchiron
is Executive Chef
274
00:12:14,984 --> 00:12:17,320
at Alain Ducasse's
Versailles restaurant.
275
00:12:30,541 --> 00:12:35,046
{\an8}♪♪
276
00:12:42,387 --> 00:12:44,222
-I just wanna...
277
00:12:44,305 --> 00:12:47,100
Oh, yeah.
That's very citrusy, that herb.
278
00:12:47,183 --> 00:12:49,435
Wow. I would put that
in a cocktail.
279
00:12:49,519 --> 00:12:52,063
-Yes.
-[ Laughs ]
280
00:12:55,400 --> 00:12:57,694
{\an8}♪♪
281
00:12:57,735 --> 00:13:00,738
-Oh, wow.
I've never seen this.
282
00:13:00,780 --> 00:13:03,574
The bass is enveloped
in a blanket of puff pastry,
283
00:13:03,616 --> 00:13:07,161
which Chef Stéphane sculpts
into a work of art.
284
00:13:23,303 --> 00:13:24,887
-Stéphane then bakes it
in the oven
285
00:13:24,929 --> 00:13:27,140
while I return
to my dinner guests.
286
00:13:27,223 --> 00:13:30,101
{\an8}♪♪
287
00:13:30,184 --> 00:13:32,020
I checked on the fish.
288
00:13:32,103 --> 00:13:35,315
It's going to live up
to the grandeur of...
289
00:13:35,398 --> 00:13:36,607
-Louis the 14th.
290
00:13:36,691 --> 00:13:37,942
-Of Louis the 14th, yes.
291
00:13:37,984 --> 00:13:45,283
{\an8}♪♪
292
00:13:45,366 --> 00:13:46,117
[ Gasps ]
293
00:13:46,200 --> 00:13:48,161
-Wow.
-Wow.
294
00:13:48,244 --> 00:13:50,079
-How do you even cut
into this?
295
00:13:52,874 --> 00:13:54,584
[ Laughter ]
296
00:13:56,586 --> 00:13:58,129
-Oh, that sound.
297
00:13:58,212 --> 00:14:00,381
-I know this needs to be
an ASMR video.
298
00:14:00,465 --> 00:14:01,632
[ Laughter ]
299
00:14:01,674 --> 00:14:03,926
{\an8}♪♪
300
00:14:03,968 --> 00:14:08,473
-When the puff pastry is light
like that, it's such a delight.
301
00:14:08,514 --> 00:14:11,309
-It's a little bit
of tableside theater.
302
00:14:11,392 --> 00:14:13,811
-Stéphane serves
the fragrant baked sea bass
303
00:14:13,853 --> 00:14:17,357
with some of the flaky pastry
and a traditional beurre blanc,
304
00:14:17,440 --> 00:14:20,151
an emulsion
of white wine and butter.
305
00:14:20,193 --> 00:14:21,903
-Merci, Chef.
-Merci.
306
00:14:21,986 --> 00:14:23,446
-Bravo.
-Merci.
307
00:14:23,488 --> 00:14:24,947
-Merci.
-Okay.
308
00:14:24,989 --> 00:14:26,324
-This is magnificent.
309
00:14:26,366 --> 00:14:28,451
{\an8}♪♪
310
00:14:28,493 --> 00:14:30,244
-Oh.
311
00:14:30,286 --> 00:14:32,830
-The texture of this fish
is so delicate.
312
00:14:32,914 --> 00:14:34,665
-It melts in your mouth.
313
00:14:34,749 --> 00:14:37,001
-It's so light and fresh.
314
00:14:37,043 --> 00:14:39,003
-Because it cooks very slowly.
315
00:14:39,045 --> 00:14:42,215
So the flesh relax
while it's cooking.
316
00:14:42,298 --> 00:14:44,133
And you have the puff pastry,
317
00:14:44,175 --> 00:14:46,177
which adds the texture
to the dish.
318
00:14:46,219 --> 00:14:48,554
So this is the perfect dish.
319
00:14:48,638 --> 00:14:51,474
-I find it incredible that we
are still enjoying food
320
00:14:51,516 --> 00:14:54,685
from the Sun King's table
four centuries later,
321
00:14:54,769 --> 00:14:59,023
but this gourmet fare was
just for the elite.
322
00:14:59,107 --> 00:15:02,610
As this, you know,
grand movement was happening
323
00:15:02,693 --> 00:15:04,028
in the court.
324
00:15:04,112 --> 00:15:05,488
What was happening
with the common folk?
325
00:15:05,530 --> 00:15:07,698
What were they eating?
326
00:15:07,740 --> 00:15:09,992
-They were eating this.
-Bread.
327
00:15:10,034 --> 00:15:14,080
-Bread.
It was a big part of the meal.
328
00:15:14,163 --> 00:15:16,332
It was a big difference
between the court and the king
329
00:15:16,374 --> 00:15:19,419
-and -- and the people.
-The people. Mm-hmm.
330
00:15:19,502 --> 00:15:22,338
-And therefore--
-Hence the French Revolution.
331
00:15:22,380 --> 00:15:25,550
-That led to
the French Revolution.
332
00:15:25,591 --> 00:15:27,260
-For nearly a century,
333
00:15:27,343 --> 00:15:28,970
the Sun King's
culinary influence spread
334
00:15:29,011 --> 00:15:32,056
to the households
of the aristocracy
335
00:15:32,098 --> 00:15:33,766
until the French Revolution
336
00:15:33,850 --> 00:15:35,268
and the end of the Ancien Régime
337
00:15:35,351 --> 00:15:40,314
changed the course
of gastronomic history.
338
00:15:51,284 --> 00:15:53,578
-Emerging from
these private kitchens,
339
00:15:53,661 --> 00:15:56,330
these skilled chefs opened
their own establishments.
340
00:15:56,372 --> 00:15:58,541
They introduced the public
to haute cuisine,
341
00:15:58,583 --> 00:16:02,295
and the French restaurant
industry was born.
342
00:16:02,378 --> 00:16:04,505
Now you have customers
and clients.
343
00:16:04,589 --> 00:16:07,258
And so that feedback
of evolving a recipe
344
00:16:07,300 --> 00:16:11,095
or evolving product
into something else
345
00:16:11,137 --> 00:16:12,972
-probably exploded.
-For sure.
346
00:16:13,055 --> 00:16:14,432
-Yeah.
347
00:16:14,474 --> 00:16:17,477
-That changed the course
of French food history.
348
00:16:17,560 --> 00:16:21,439
It led entirely the way
to a new chapter of restaurants
349
00:16:21,481 --> 00:16:24,025
and eventually in the way
that we know them today.
350
00:16:24,108 --> 00:16:25,818
-That's exciting.
-Yeah.
351
00:16:25,902 --> 00:16:27,028
-What happens next?
352
00:16:27,111 --> 00:16:31,866
{\an8}♪♪
353
00:16:31,949 --> 00:16:39,332
{\an8}♪♪
354
00:16:39,415 --> 00:16:41,751
We have red wine.
Our first red wine.
355
00:16:41,792 --> 00:16:43,586
-Santé.
-Santé.
356
00:16:43,628 --> 00:16:46,380
-We're halfway through
our seven-course meal.
357
00:16:46,464 --> 00:16:47,965
Time for our main course,
358
00:16:48,007 --> 00:16:50,718
which takes us
into the 19th century.
359
00:16:50,760 --> 00:16:55,640
All right, so our plat principal
is Beef à la Rossini
360
00:16:55,681 --> 00:16:57,683
in Périgueux sauce.
361
00:16:57,767 --> 00:17:01,646
-It's a very luxurious dish
made with beef and foie gras,
362
00:17:01,687 --> 00:17:05,316
and then sauce Périgueux, which
is made with espagnole sauce,
363
00:17:05,358 --> 00:17:07,693
which was defined by Escoffier.
364
00:17:07,777 --> 00:17:11,531
{\an8}♪♪
365
00:17:11,614 --> 00:17:15,493
-Escoffier was the most
celebrated chef of that period,
366
00:17:15,535 --> 00:17:18,287
who codified a lot
of the rules of dining.
367
00:17:18,329 --> 00:17:20,248
-So he created this dish?
368
00:17:20,331 --> 00:17:22,833
-He didn't create it,
but he popularized it.
369
00:17:22,917 --> 00:17:24,627
-By the late 1800s,
370
00:17:24,669 --> 00:17:27,672
a new bourgeois class
with gourmand taste
371
00:17:27,713 --> 00:17:30,758
was creating an explosion
in the restaurant industry.
372
00:17:30,800 --> 00:17:34,345
There were no standardized
recipes or techniques.
373
00:17:34,428 --> 00:17:36,764
Enter Auguste Escoffier,
374
00:17:36,847 --> 00:17:40,643
who in 1903 wrote a book of
rules and recipes training chefs
375
00:17:40,685 --> 00:17:44,188
to deliver a consistent level
of professional cooking.
376
00:17:44,230 --> 00:17:45,690
-Escoffier said, "Okay..."
377
00:18:04,542 --> 00:18:06,836
-Key to Escoffier's
haute cuisine
378
00:18:06,877 --> 00:18:10,298
were sauces adding
unity and depth to his dishes.
379
00:18:10,381 --> 00:18:13,092
He classified the top
five essential mother sauces
380
00:18:13,175 --> 00:18:14,635
for chefs to master.
381
00:18:14,719 --> 00:18:18,556
So I have asked Eric
to give me a lesson.
382
00:18:18,639 --> 00:18:20,516
-Okay, Eric.
383
00:18:20,558 --> 00:18:25,229
Please explain to me
these five mother sauces.
384
00:18:25,271 --> 00:18:27,023
-So mother sauce is the basic,
385
00:18:27,064 --> 00:18:30,860
and you can add ingredients
in it and you change the flavor.
386
00:18:30,901 --> 00:18:32,069
-Then it becomes
something else.
387
00:18:32,153 --> 00:18:33,738
-Something else.
388
00:18:33,821 --> 00:18:35,656
-The pinnacle
of haute cuisine,
389
00:18:35,698 --> 00:18:38,034
the five mother sauces
are still used
390
00:18:38,075 --> 00:18:41,037
by classically-trained
chefs today.
391
00:18:41,078 --> 00:18:43,122
They include the
egg-based hollandaise
392
00:18:43,205 --> 00:18:45,041
and the classic tomato.
393
00:18:45,082 --> 00:18:46,417
Is it made of tomatoes?
394
00:18:46,500 --> 00:18:48,377
-It's made with tomatoes.
395
00:18:48,419 --> 00:18:50,254
-The remaining
three sauces are made
396
00:18:50,296 --> 00:18:51,756
with a base called a roux.
397
00:18:51,839 --> 00:18:53,633
-So we're going to put
the butter here.
398
00:18:53,716 --> 00:18:56,927
-A mix of melted butter
and flour.
399
00:18:56,969 --> 00:18:58,512
You know, I always did this,
400
00:18:58,596 --> 00:19:00,056
and I never knew
it was called a roux.
401
00:19:00,097 --> 00:19:01,599
-Oh, you never knew?
-No.
402
00:19:01,682 --> 00:19:03,976
This is just
how I would thicken my gravy.
403
00:19:04,060 --> 00:19:06,562
-Yes, of course.
404
00:19:06,604 --> 00:19:08,606
-Simply adding milk
to the roux
405
00:19:08,689 --> 00:19:12,818
creates the most widely used
of the five sauces, béchamel.
406
00:19:12,902 --> 00:19:15,988
And what are your favorite
things to do with béchamel base?
407
00:19:16,072 --> 00:19:18,449
-I make cauliflower gratin
with it.
408
00:19:18,491 --> 00:19:21,452
-Really?
-Yes, at home.
409
00:19:21,494 --> 00:19:23,079
-Next is the velouté,
410
00:19:23,120 --> 00:19:26,165
where instead of milk,
the roux is mixed with stock.
411
00:19:26,248 --> 00:19:27,833
-It's almost like a soup.
412
00:19:27,917 --> 00:19:30,086
-And finally, the most refined
of the mother sauces
413
00:19:30,127 --> 00:19:31,712
is the espagnole,
414
00:19:31,796 --> 00:19:35,424
which is the base for
our upcoming sauce, Périgueux.
415
00:19:35,466 --> 00:19:36,842
So we will be eating this one.
416
00:19:36,926 --> 00:19:38,469
-Oh, for sure
we're gonna eat this one.
417
00:19:38,552 --> 00:19:40,179
-Okay.
418
00:19:40,262 --> 00:19:42,890
-It's basically a reduction
of veal stock--
419
00:19:42,973 --> 00:19:44,350
-And veal broth.
420
00:19:44,433 --> 00:19:47,019
-Veal broth, very dark,
already very reduced.
421
00:19:47,103 --> 00:19:49,563
-Hence the color.
422
00:19:49,605 --> 00:19:51,107
-I like
that it's called mother sauces,
423
00:19:51,148 --> 00:19:52,817
not the father sauces.
424
00:19:52,858 --> 00:19:56,112
You know what I mean?
Mothers make things better.
425
00:19:56,153 --> 00:19:57,405
You need the mother
for all things.
426
00:19:57,488 --> 00:20:00,241
-Eva, I agree with you.
-[ Laughs ]
427
00:20:00,324 --> 00:20:02,284
-I'm sold.
-Sold.
428
00:20:02,326 --> 00:20:03,994
-Mother sauces.
429
00:20:04,036 --> 00:20:07,498
Chef Jean-Philippe transforms
our espagnole mother sauce
430
00:20:07,540 --> 00:20:11,669
into a refined Périgueux
with Madeira and black truffle.
431
00:20:11,711 --> 00:20:14,338
{\an8}♪♪
432
00:20:14,380 --> 00:20:16,674
Beef Rossini is made
with filet mignon,
433
00:20:16,757 --> 00:20:20,469
foie gras and black truffle
tailored by Escoffier
434
00:20:20,511 --> 00:20:24,348
to please the lavish taste
of the bourgeoisie.
435
00:20:24,432 --> 00:20:26,851
Wow, look at those truffle.
436
00:20:26,934 --> 00:20:28,561
-It looks beautiful.
437
00:20:28,644 --> 00:20:31,731
-It looks like chocolate.
-The proportions are amazing.
438
00:20:31,814 --> 00:20:34,817
In between the foie gras
and the beef, the truffles.
439
00:20:34,859 --> 00:20:37,862
But also you have a crouton
that brings a bit of texture,
440
00:20:37,945 --> 00:20:40,239
but also will drink
the juice of the beef.
441
00:20:40,322 --> 00:20:42,241
-This is gorgeous.
442
00:20:42,324 --> 00:20:45,035
And as with
all classic haute cuisine,
443
00:20:45,077 --> 00:20:48,164
the dish is tied together
with our luxurious sauce.
444
00:20:48,205 --> 00:20:50,374
That's a thick sauce.
445
00:20:50,416 --> 00:20:52,209
-This is beautiful.
446
00:20:52,293 --> 00:20:59,341
{\an8}♪♪
447
00:21:01,677 --> 00:21:06,015
-Mmm. Oh, that's nice.
448
00:21:06,056 --> 00:21:10,936
Mm, that lean filet mignon
with the fatty foie gras
449
00:21:11,020 --> 00:21:12,563
is a good combination.
450
00:21:12,605 --> 00:21:14,440
-It has the texture
that is very velvety.
451
00:21:14,523 --> 00:21:18,527
But foie gras brings
a lot of richness to the dish.
452
00:21:18,569 --> 00:21:21,947
-With the sauce that
creates a softness too.
453
00:21:22,031 --> 00:21:23,073
I mean, it's just delicious.
454
00:21:23,157 --> 00:21:24,784
-Mm.
-Wow.
455
00:21:24,867 --> 00:21:29,413
-This is the eye
of gourmandise in cooking.
456
00:21:29,497 --> 00:21:32,500
All the elements are beautiful
and delicious.
457
00:21:32,583 --> 00:21:35,878
And I think
this dish represents Escoffier
458
00:21:35,920 --> 00:21:38,798
-and his success very well.
-Mm-hmm.
459
00:21:38,881 --> 00:21:40,674
Did Escoffier have
an influence on you?
460
00:21:40,758 --> 00:21:42,593
-Oh, for sure.
-Yeah?
461
00:21:42,635 --> 00:21:47,598
-He basically codified the way
you organize your kitchen
462
00:21:47,640 --> 00:21:51,268
and the way you serve
as well in the dining room.
463
00:21:51,310 --> 00:21:54,396
-Escoffier's haute cuisine
needed an efficient workforce
464
00:21:54,438 --> 00:21:58,609
to deliver his recipes in his
strictly ordered, coarse format.
465
00:21:58,651 --> 00:22:00,444
But with no organization,
466
00:22:00,528 --> 00:22:03,781
kitchens were chaotic
and lawless.
467
00:22:03,864 --> 00:22:04,907
-I've always...
468
00:22:09,703 --> 00:22:11,956
-To bring these
rowdy rebels under control,
469
00:22:12,039 --> 00:22:15,334
Escoffier created an army-like
brigade system with a hierarchy
470
00:22:15,417 --> 00:22:18,462
and clearly defined roles.
471
00:22:18,504 --> 00:22:20,756
So what exactly
is the brigade system?
472
00:22:20,798 --> 00:22:23,676
{\an8}-The brigade system is
an organization.
473
00:22:23,759 --> 00:22:26,345
Escoffier is coming
from military.
474
00:22:26,428 --> 00:22:29,139
And he keeps the same words.
475
00:22:29,223 --> 00:22:33,602
Not a general, but a chef,
sous chef and chef de partie.
476
00:22:33,644 --> 00:22:36,689
And with all the parts,
the meat, the fish,
477
00:22:36,772 --> 00:22:39,400
the vegetables, the sauce.
478
00:22:39,483 --> 00:22:40,818
-A game changer.
479
00:22:40,860 --> 00:22:43,028
His system is still
widely used today.
480
00:22:43,112 --> 00:22:46,073
-We need this brigade system
because if you want to,
481
00:22:46,156 --> 00:22:50,744
{\an8}to push out of the limit and
to have something more creative.
482
00:22:56,000 --> 00:22:58,961
-But Escoffier knew
good restaurants also needed
483
00:22:59,003 --> 00:23:00,963
great service,
484
00:23:01,005 --> 00:23:03,340
so he continued his military
regime into the dining room.
485
00:23:03,424 --> 00:23:04,550
-The beautiful
roasted chicken.
486
00:23:04,633 --> 00:23:07,511
-Oh, my gosh.
487
00:23:07,595 --> 00:23:09,096
-And this, my friends,
488
00:23:09,138 --> 00:23:11,348
saw the dawn of the
intimidating French waiter.
489
00:23:11,432 --> 00:23:14,935
{\an8}♪♪
490
00:23:14,977 --> 00:23:15,936
It's not just me, is it?
491
00:23:16,020 --> 00:23:17,855
They are scary.
492
00:23:17,938 --> 00:23:20,024
with a rigid chain of command,
493
00:23:20,065 --> 00:23:22,568
Escoffier's front
of house Brigade system
494
00:23:22,651 --> 00:23:26,030
provided seamless service
in the dining room.
495
00:23:26,071 --> 00:23:28,032
-So everyone has a role
in their position.
496
00:23:28,073 --> 00:23:32,369
So this was then also applied
abroad in other cultures?
497
00:23:32,453 --> 00:23:33,704
-Yes.
498
00:23:33,746 --> 00:23:35,372
You have the captains,
499
00:23:35,456 --> 00:23:36,749
which are called
maitre d'hotel in France,
500
00:23:36,832 --> 00:23:39,209
the chef de rang,
and the commis.
501
00:23:39,251 --> 00:23:41,754
-So there's this hierarchy
to the brigade system?
502
00:23:41,837 --> 00:23:43,213
-Yes.
503
00:23:43,297 --> 00:23:45,549
-When you started out, did
you work your way up the system?
504
00:23:45,591 --> 00:23:46,842
-Oh, yes, of course,
505
00:23:46,884 --> 00:23:49,762
-I started as line cook--
-Wow.
506
00:23:49,845 --> 00:23:53,182
-And then chef de partie
much later,
507
00:23:53,223 --> 00:23:56,852
and I became a chef
about 10, 11 years.
508
00:23:56,894 --> 00:23:59,355
-Into the profession.
-Into the profession, yes.
509
00:23:59,396 --> 00:24:00,898
-Wow.
510
00:24:00,981 --> 00:24:04,109
-Now I get why Escoffier is
known as the father
511
00:24:04,193 --> 00:24:05,653
of modern cuisine.
512
00:24:05,736 --> 00:24:07,571
His strict rules of fine dining
513
00:24:07,613 --> 00:24:09,782
are still seen all
over France today.
514
00:24:09,865 --> 00:24:13,911
From the brigades to the food
and even the sauces.
515
00:24:13,994 --> 00:24:15,996
The sauce is the star
of the plate.
516
00:24:16,038 --> 00:24:18,666
Because you can feel and
taste the truffle in the sauce.
517
00:24:18,749 --> 00:24:21,251
-It's also harmonious, right?
518
00:24:21,293 --> 00:24:24,254
The sauce brings all
the ingredients together.
519
00:24:24,338 --> 00:24:25,673
It's paradise.
520
00:24:25,756 --> 00:24:27,466
-This plate is paradise.
521
00:24:27,549 --> 00:24:29,218
-That's it.
522
00:24:29,259 --> 00:24:30,594
We'll rename it.
523
00:24:30,636 --> 00:24:37,977
{\an8}♪♪
524
00:24:38,060 --> 00:24:42,523
{\an8}♪♪
525
00:24:42,606 --> 00:24:44,441
-The first half
of the 20th century
526
00:24:44,525 --> 00:24:47,403
was unstoppable
for French gastronomy.
527
00:24:47,444 --> 00:24:51,365
They were basking in the glory
of Escoffier's legacy.
528
00:24:51,448 --> 00:24:55,828
The French brigade system
became the global standard,
529
00:24:55,911 --> 00:24:58,455
French techniques became
the cornerstone
530
00:24:58,497 --> 00:25:00,332
of culinary education
531
00:25:00,416 --> 00:25:03,919
and not to mention the rise
of the Michelin Guide.
532
00:25:03,961 --> 00:25:06,296
{\an8}♪♪
533
00:25:06,380 --> 00:25:11,051
-I've always been fascinated
by the Michelin-star system.
534
00:25:11,135 --> 00:25:14,888
How did a tire company decide
who is the best of the best?
535
00:25:14,930 --> 00:25:16,807
-I mean,
I think you have to remember
536
00:25:16,890 --> 00:25:18,892
how they started
even reviewing restaurants,
537
00:25:18,976 --> 00:25:21,437
and it's because
they were encouraging people
538
00:25:21,478 --> 00:25:23,731
-on the motorway to take breaks.
-Right.
539
00:25:23,814 --> 00:25:26,567
-I actually have
a little surprise here.
540
00:25:26,650 --> 00:25:29,778
I found this 1978 guide.
541
00:25:29,820 --> 00:25:31,864
So it's not the oldest,
obviously,
542
00:25:31,947 --> 00:25:35,951
because they started
attributing stars in 1926.
543
00:25:35,993 --> 00:25:36,952
-Oh, really?
544
00:25:36,994 --> 00:25:39,705
{\an8}♪♪
545
00:25:39,788 --> 00:25:41,165
To encourage travel
and therefore tire sales
546
00:25:41,248 --> 00:25:45,335
on France's expanding
road network.
547
00:25:45,377 --> 00:25:48,464
Michelin Tires created
a restaurant guide using
548
00:25:48,505 --> 00:25:50,340
the standard set by Escoffier
549
00:25:50,424 --> 00:25:54,344
to award stars
for quality and consistency.
550
00:25:54,428 --> 00:25:57,056
-So one star would be
good cooking in its class.
551
00:25:57,139 --> 00:26:00,601
Two is excellent cooking
worthy of a detour.
552
00:26:00,684 --> 00:26:02,186
-Ooh.
553
00:26:02,269 --> 00:26:04,396
-And then three stars
worthy of a special journey.
554
00:26:04,480 --> 00:26:06,774
-Oh, like a destination?
-Yeah.
555
00:26:06,857 --> 00:26:08,859
-Is it still
the same qualifications today?
556
00:26:08,901 --> 00:26:10,194
-Those are still how they write.
557
00:26:10,277 --> 00:26:12,738
-Yes,
it is the same qualifications.
558
00:26:12,821 --> 00:26:14,740
-What started out
as a travel guide
559
00:26:14,823 --> 00:26:17,868
soon became the benchmark
for haute cuisine,
560
00:26:17,910 --> 00:26:21,330
creating the first ever
celebrity chefs.
561
00:26:21,371 --> 00:26:22,956
Over the 20th century,
562
00:26:23,040 --> 00:26:26,043
Michelin started to issue
guides around the world,
563
00:26:26,085 --> 00:26:29,713
including New York,
awarding three stars to Eric's
564
00:26:29,797 --> 00:26:32,716
modern French restaurant,
Le Bernardin.
565
00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:34,676
When you started out,
566
00:26:34,718 --> 00:26:38,222
did you aspire to become
a Michelin-starred chef?
567
00:26:38,263 --> 00:26:41,225
-I always wanted to be
the chef that I am today.
568
00:26:41,308 --> 00:26:45,062
I wanted to be the chef
of a big brigade
569
00:26:45,104 --> 00:26:47,731
who can create
those great dishes
570
00:26:47,815 --> 00:26:50,734
and have people
potentially traveling to come
571
00:26:50,818 --> 00:26:53,612
and have a very specific
and special experience.
572
00:26:53,695 --> 00:26:55,614
-To just see you.
573
00:26:55,697 --> 00:26:57,407
-Well, not to see me,
to eat the food.
574
00:26:57,449 --> 00:26:58,992
-Yes, but you are the food.
575
00:26:59,034 --> 00:27:00,577
This is your story
that you tell.
576
00:27:00,661 --> 00:27:02,871
-Yeah, it's my story for sure.
577
00:27:02,913 --> 00:27:05,332
-Still the gold standard,
578
00:27:05,374 --> 00:27:07,501
these days Michelin doesn't
just award stars
579
00:27:07,584 --> 00:27:10,087
for Escoffier-style fine dining,
580
00:27:10,129 --> 00:27:12,756
which brings us
to our fifth course.
581
00:27:12,840 --> 00:27:16,051
A risotto of
seasonal fruits and vegetables.
582
00:27:16,093 --> 00:27:20,139
{\an8}♪♪
583
00:27:20,222 --> 00:27:22,933
-Merci beaucoup.
-Je vous en prie.
584
00:27:23,016 --> 00:27:27,938
-[ Gasps ] Oh, my goodness,
it's beautiful.
585
00:27:28,021 --> 00:27:31,817
I love a colorful plate.
586
00:27:31,900 --> 00:27:34,278
-This is a signature dish
of Monsieur Ducasse.
587
00:27:34,319 --> 00:27:39,616
{\an8}♪♪
588
00:27:39,658 --> 00:27:40,993
-Mmm.
589
00:27:41,076 --> 00:27:43,120
-It's a texture explosion.
-Yes.
590
00:27:43,162 --> 00:27:45,122
-'Cause there's
like the softness of vegetables,
591
00:27:45,205 --> 00:27:50,210
the little structured fruit,
and then that grain.
592
00:27:50,294 --> 00:27:51,170
It's like a party.
593
00:27:51,253 --> 00:27:52,921
-A little bit. Yeah.
A party.
594
00:27:52,963 --> 00:27:54,256
-A little texture
party happening in my mouth.
595
00:27:54,298 --> 00:27:56,216
-It's inspired
by nouvelle cuisine.
596
00:27:56,300 --> 00:27:57,467
-Wow.
597
00:27:57,551 --> 00:28:00,095
-Vegetables and fruits
are assembled together.
598
00:28:00,137 --> 00:28:03,682
So that way you can taste
every flavor
599
00:28:03,765 --> 00:28:06,310
-from every vegetable and fruit.
-Right.
600
00:28:06,393 --> 00:28:07,936
-In the '70s,
601
00:28:07,978 --> 00:28:11,440
chefs decided to honor
the quality of the ingredients.
602
00:28:11,481 --> 00:28:12,566
Less sauce.
603
00:28:12,649 --> 00:28:14,151
And it's lighter.
604
00:28:14,234 --> 00:28:16,820
Nouvelle cuisine was
a revolution
605
00:28:16,862 --> 00:28:20,324
before it was a dictature
from the Escoffier era.
606
00:28:20,407 --> 00:28:22,993
You were not able
to express yourself.
607
00:28:23,076 --> 00:28:25,704
You couldn't put cilantro
if it was tarragon
608
00:28:25,787 --> 00:28:28,498
because it was not authorized.
609
00:28:28,540 --> 00:28:29,833
-Seeking creative freedom,
610
00:28:29,875 --> 00:28:32,002
some of France's
top emerging chefs
611
00:28:32,085 --> 00:28:35,839
started to reject the doctrine
of classic haute cuisine.
612
00:28:35,881 --> 00:28:38,508
{\an8}♪♪
613
00:28:38,592 --> 00:28:41,678
-There is a lot of
different chefs Michel Gérard,
614
00:28:41,762 --> 00:28:43,555
Paul Bocuse, Les Trois.
615
00:28:43,639 --> 00:28:47,017
These kind of chefs
start to really break the rules.
616
00:29:01,281 --> 00:29:03,367
{\an8}♪♪
617
00:29:03,450 --> 00:29:06,036
-Inspired
by the '60s counterculture,
618
00:29:06,119 --> 00:29:08,705
these young chefs shook up
the status quo,
619
00:29:08,789 --> 00:29:10,540
leaving many
of the older generation
620
00:29:10,624 --> 00:29:13,252
appalled at this rebellion.
621
00:29:13,335 --> 00:29:15,879
-I can tell you
that my grandfather,
622
00:29:15,963 --> 00:29:17,506
{\an8}when he saw
the Nouvelle cuisine arrived,
623
00:29:17,547 --> 00:29:20,133
{\an8}he was completely upset.
He said, "It's bullshit."
624
00:29:20,217 --> 00:29:23,303
It's a... So, there was a
generation, you know,
625
00:29:23,387 --> 00:29:27,724
who were completely against that
for sure.
626
00:29:27,766 --> 00:29:29,393
-Nouvelle cuisine started
to appear
627
00:29:29,476 --> 00:29:33,522
on Michelin-starred menus,
creating a new trend.
628
00:29:33,563 --> 00:29:35,816
But inevitably,
some chefs went overboard.
629
00:29:35,899 --> 00:29:37,776
And soon this new movement
became a victim
630
00:29:37,859 --> 00:29:39,403
of its own success.
631
00:29:39,444 --> 00:29:41,238
{\an8}♪♪
632
00:29:52,916 --> 00:29:55,419
{\an8}♪♪
633
00:29:55,502 --> 00:29:57,713
-It became a caricature
and a bad word
634
00:29:57,754 --> 00:30:01,883
because you ended up
with three string beans parallel
635
00:30:01,925 --> 00:30:05,262
-to each other, barely cooked.
-Oh.
636
00:30:05,345 --> 00:30:07,764
-With a tiny piece of chicken.
-I remember this now.
637
00:30:07,848 --> 00:30:09,349
-Yeah, yeah, yeah.
638
00:30:09,391 --> 00:30:11,935
-And they will come to the table
with all the formality.
639
00:30:12,019 --> 00:30:14,438
Put a gigantic silver cloche
on top.
640
00:30:14,521 --> 00:30:15,564
-For three green beans.
641
00:30:15,605 --> 00:30:16,898
-Everybody at the same time.
642
00:30:16,940 --> 00:30:18,734
-You'll be like, "Oh."
-Oh, that's it.
643
00:30:18,775 --> 00:30:21,445
-There, that's--
-So it went too far.
644
00:30:21,528 --> 00:30:23,155
-It went too far.
They went too extreme.
645
00:30:23,238 --> 00:30:24,489
-Yeah.
646
00:30:24,573 --> 00:30:26,533
-It was lampooned
even by Paul Bocuse himself,
647
00:30:26,575 --> 00:30:29,578
who famously said, "Uh,
not a lot on the plate,
648
00:30:29,619 --> 00:30:35,417
everything on the bill."
I think that tells you a lot.
649
00:30:35,459 --> 00:30:37,461
-As nouvelle cuisine
snowballed,
650
00:30:37,544 --> 00:30:41,089
food journalist Gault-Millau
tried to define what
651
00:30:41,131 --> 00:30:43,300
{\an8}it stood for
in Ten Commandments.
652
00:30:43,383 --> 00:30:45,927
{\an8}-The tenets
of nouvelle cuisine
653
00:30:45,969 --> 00:30:47,888
were like,
"Thou shalt not overcook."
654
00:30:47,971 --> 00:30:49,639
-Oh, my God,
they're even in thou shalt not?
655
00:30:49,723 --> 00:30:51,266
-Oh, yeah.
-Oh, wow.
656
00:30:51,308 --> 00:30:52,893
-They weren't messing around.
-They were serious.
657
00:30:52,976 --> 00:30:54,311
-"Thou shalt use
fresh quality products."
658
00:30:54,394 --> 00:30:56,772
"Thou shall eliminate
rich sauces."
659
00:30:56,813 --> 00:30:58,940
"Thou shalt be inventive."
660
00:30:58,982 --> 00:31:01,818
-Wait, wait, wait. Wait.
661
00:31:01,860 --> 00:31:06,073
Why would you have harsh rules
about not having rules?
662
00:31:06,156 --> 00:31:08,992
-It was a way
of understanding this movement,
663
00:31:09,034 --> 00:31:11,161
but it ended up creating
another rule book
664
00:31:11,244 --> 00:31:13,205
when they wanted to move away
from a rule book.
665
00:31:13,288 --> 00:31:14,414
-Yeah.
666
00:31:14,498 --> 00:31:16,541
-But then we find
some balance again.
667
00:31:16,625 --> 00:31:21,171
And Nouvelle cuisine has been
very influential still today.
668
00:31:21,254 --> 00:31:24,007
-As the extremes
of nouvelle cuisine died out,
669
00:31:24,049 --> 00:31:26,051
its core values
of creative freedom
670
00:31:26,134 --> 00:31:28,178
and fresh produce have remained,
671
00:31:28,220 --> 00:31:30,889
leaving their imprint
on many top chefs today.
672
00:31:30,972 --> 00:31:34,559
{\an8}♪♪
673
00:31:45,445 --> 00:31:49,741
-Alain Ducasse took
the best of nouvelle cuisine,
674
00:31:49,825 --> 00:31:54,413
and he created a new style
without the stupidity
675
00:31:54,496 --> 00:31:58,208
and excess of it
to elevate every ingredient
676
00:31:58,250 --> 00:32:01,420
and creating something
harmonious with contrast.
677
00:32:01,503 --> 00:32:04,005
And we have a dish
678
00:32:04,047 --> 00:32:06,800
that really represents the best
679
00:32:06,842 --> 00:32:10,303
of what nouvelle cuisine
left behind.
680
00:32:10,387 --> 00:32:19,938
{\an8}♪♪
681
00:32:20,021 --> 00:32:21,898
-Bon appetit.
-Bon appetit. Santé.
682
00:32:21,940 --> 00:32:23,442
-Bon appetit.
683
00:32:23,525 --> 00:32:24,943
-[ Laughs ]
684
00:32:25,026 --> 00:32:27,821
-We've docked back at the
Eiffel Tower to pick up a VIP
685
00:32:27,863 --> 00:32:32,117
who's joining us for our next
course and chapter in our story.
686
00:32:32,200 --> 00:32:34,953
-Mory.
-How are you?
687
00:32:35,036 --> 00:32:37,581
-How are you?
-Bonjour, Mory.
688
00:32:37,664 --> 00:32:38,707
-Bonjour.
689
00:32:38,748 --> 00:32:39,958
-Ça va.
-Ça va.
690
00:32:40,041 --> 00:32:42,377
{\an8}♪♪
691
00:32:42,419 --> 00:32:46,131
-Mory Sacko is one of France's
most cutting-edge chefs.
692
00:32:46,214 --> 00:32:47,966
So I'm dying to know
his thoughts on
693
00:32:48,049 --> 00:32:52,012
how French cuisine got to its
place on the world stage today.
694
00:32:52,053 --> 00:32:56,183
-We have been talking
about the l'histoire
695
00:32:56,266 --> 00:32:58,101
of French cuisine.
696
00:32:58,185 --> 00:32:59,561
-And I love that you're here
697
00:32:59,603 --> 00:33:01,354
because your generation is
such a big part
698
00:33:01,396 --> 00:33:04,691
of redefining what
has been laid before you.
699
00:33:11,865 --> 00:33:14,075
-Yeah. Hello, Nina.
-Hello.
700
00:33:14,117 --> 00:33:15,452
-For your sixth course,
701
00:33:15,535 --> 00:33:17,537
we are breaking
with the traditional menu.
702
00:33:17,579 --> 00:33:20,290
And there will be
small plates with some cheese.
703
00:33:20,332 --> 00:33:21,666
-Thank you.
-You're welcome.
704
00:33:21,750 --> 00:33:23,793
-Thank you.
-We're breaking the rules.
705
00:33:23,835 --> 00:33:25,128
-Yeah.
-[ Laughs ]
706
00:33:28,131 --> 00:33:29,633
-In classic cuisine,
707
00:33:29,674 --> 00:33:32,969
the sixth course
often serves cheese as a bridge
708
00:33:33,053 --> 00:33:35,096
between the main and dessert.
709
00:33:35,138 --> 00:33:37,849
But the late '90s saw
a new rebellion
710
00:33:37,933 --> 00:33:39,726
against Escoffier's rules,
711
00:33:39,768 --> 00:33:43,522
rejecting the formality
of one course after another.
712
00:33:43,605 --> 00:33:45,649
This movement,
dubbed gastronomy,
713
00:33:45,690 --> 00:33:47,776
{\an8}often serves small plates
together.
714
00:33:47,817 --> 00:33:50,153
{\an8}♪♪
715
00:33:50,237 --> 00:33:52,447
-Bistronomy was
the last super big
716
00:33:52,489 --> 00:33:55,283
new movement in culinary here.
717
00:33:55,325 --> 00:33:57,327
-Bistronomy?
-Yes, bistronomy.
718
00:33:57,410 --> 00:33:59,788
-Like bistro and gastronomy.
-Mixed.
719
00:33:59,829 --> 00:34:01,373
-Mixed together.
-Bistronomy.
720
00:34:01,456 --> 00:34:03,208
-Yeah.
721
00:34:03,291 --> 00:34:04,292
-A lot of chefs
didn't have the budget
722
00:34:04,334 --> 00:34:06,336
to open a restaurant
723
00:34:06,419 --> 00:34:09,714
and invest in silverware
and crystal and tablecloths.
724
00:34:09,798 --> 00:34:12,717
They care about cooking
great ingredients,
725
00:34:12,801 --> 00:34:17,055
but caviar and truffles,
it's so expensive.
726
00:34:17,138 --> 00:34:19,057
-In the early '90s,
727
00:34:19,140 --> 00:34:21,851
a major recession in France
caused thousands of restaurants
728
00:34:21,893 --> 00:34:25,730
to close,
paving the way for fast food.
729
00:34:25,814 --> 00:34:28,191
The pressure
to maintain the formal standards
730
00:34:28,233 --> 00:34:31,653
of haute cuisine
grew too great for some chefs.
731
00:34:31,695 --> 00:34:35,532
In 2003, depressed
and under financial strain,
732
00:34:35,574 --> 00:34:41,580
three-starred Bernard Loiseau
took his own life.
733
00:34:41,663 --> 00:34:43,873
With the crisis
of haute cuisine laid bare,
734
00:34:43,915 --> 00:34:46,793
chefs rebelled
by opening more modest bistros
735
00:34:46,876 --> 00:34:50,088
with simplified menus.
736
00:35:03,852 --> 00:35:07,522
-So this bistronomy movement,
did this influence you?
737
00:35:19,743 --> 00:35:20,744
-Oh, wow.
738
00:35:35,550 --> 00:35:36,635
-Merci.
739
00:35:38,511 --> 00:35:40,263
-Mmm.
-Mmm.
740
00:35:40,305 --> 00:35:41,765
-Oh, yeah, spicy mayo.
-Oh, wow.
741
00:35:43,850 --> 00:35:44,934
-Ooh.
742
00:35:44,976 --> 00:35:46,061
-It picks up.
743
00:35:46,102 --> 00:35:47,479
-Yeah.
744
00:35:47,562 --> 00:35:48,772
-I mean, it's okay.
I love spicy food.
745
00:35:48,855 --> 00:35:50,273
-No, I love spicy.
746
00:36:07,374 --> 00:36:08,625
-Yeah, I like that.
747
00:36:08,667 --> 00:36:10,126
-That's true.
748
00:36:10,168 --> 00:36:14,631
-Well, I'm moving on to the
cheese to calm down this spice.
749
00:36:14,673 --> 00:36:20,095
-Mmm. It is so
creamy and fluffy.
750
00:36:20,136 --> 00:36:21,888
-That cheese is really good.
-I know.
751
00:36:21,971 --> 00:36:24,516
-The way they whisk it
is almost like a whipped cream.
752
00:36:24,599 --> 00:36:25,809
-Okay, I'm gonna try the broth.
753
00:36:25,850 --> 00:36:27,185
I haven't tried it.
754
00:36:27,268 --> 00:36:28,728
-The broth is nice.
It's a bit spicy.
755
00:36:28,812 --> 00:36:30,522
-Is it spicy
because of the ginger?
756
00:36:30,605 --> 00:36:33,858
-I think so.
The ginger kicks a little bit.
757
00:36:33,942 --> 00:36:34,984
-What do you think, Mory?
758
00:36:51,543 --> 00:36:54,045
-As bistronomy evolved
into the 2000s,
759
00:36:54,129 --> 00:36:57,215
the internet and cheap travel
opened chefs' eyes
760
00:36:57,298 --> 00:36:59,592
to a more global view
of gastronomy.
761
00:37:08,017 --> 00:37:09,686
{\an8}♪♪
762
00:37:09,769 --> 00:37:11,688
-I see life
with no boundaries,
763
00:37:11,730 --> 00:37:13,690
and I don't want to define
myself about where I'm from.
764
00:37:13,732 --> 00:37:15,191
I've been trained in France.
765
00:37:15,275 --> 00:37:16,443
I've learned many things.
766
00:37:16,526 --> 00:37:18,445
My heart is here in Marseille,
767
00:37:18,528 --> 00:37:20,989
but what I enjoy
the most is away.
768
00:37:21,030 --> 00:37:23,533
-Yeah.
769
00:37:23,616 --> 00:37:25,368
The revolution
in French cooking
770
00:37:25,410 --> 00:37:27,996
sparked by the economic crisis
of the '90s,
771
00:37:28,037 --> 00:37:31,583
created a new freedom
for chefs like Mory.
772
00:37:31,666 --> 00:37:33,877
He combines classical
French training
773
00:37:33,960 --> 00:37:38,339
with Japanese influences
and his West African heritage.
774
00:37:38,381 --> 00:37:40,383
-You are--
-Many things.
775
00:37:40,425 --> 00:37:42,927
-Many things all at once
and it's beautiful.
776
00:37:59,402 --> 00:38:00,612
-Yeah.
777
00:38:00,695 --> 00:38:02,030
Mory, thank you so much
for coming.
778
00:38:02,947 --> 00:38:04,783
-I'm so happy you were here
to talk with us.
779
00:38:07,285 --> 00:38:09,412
You can take
the cheese with you.
780
00:38:09,454 --> 00:38:10,455
Leave the wine.
781
00:38:10,538 --> 00:38:11,915
-[ Laughs ]
782
00:38:11,956 --> 00:38:15,919
{\an8}♪♪
783
00:38:16,002 --> 00:38:24,093
{\an8}♪♪
784
00:38:24,135 --> 00:38:25,386
-Hey, you guys, we made it!
785
00:38:25,428 --> 00:38:26,596
We made it
to the seventh course.
786
00:38:26,638 --> 00:38:28,598
I'm excited about this dessert
787
00:38:28,640 --> 00:38:30,558
because we talked about
the rise, the fall,
788
00:38:30,600 --> 00:38:32,769
the resurrection
of French gastronomy.
789
00:38:32,811 --> 00:38:37,106
And I want to see
how French cuisine is evolving.
790
00:38:37,148 --> 00:38:39,943
The dessert is representing
what the future holds
791
00:38:40,026 --> 00:38:41,361
for French gastronomy
792
00:38:41,402 --> 00:38:44,572
experimenting
with a French classic.
793
00:38:44,614 --> 00:38:46,199
-That's cool.
-Isn't that amazing?
794
00:38:46,282 --> 00:38:47,325
-I like the mystery.
795
00:38:47,408 --> 00:38:51,704
{\an8}♪♪
796
00:38:51,788 --> 00:38:54,249
-Two top students
from the Ducasse Culinary School
797
00:38:54,290 --> 00:38:58,628
have reimagined the classic
Strawberries in Chantilly cream,
798
00:38:58,670 --> 00:39:01,798
a dish made popular
by Escoffier.
799
00:39:01,881 --> 00:39:05,510
Their version has a base
of sliced strawberries glazed
800
00:39:05,593 --> 00:39:09,472
with a strawberry confit.
801
00:39:09,556 --> 00:39:10,974
What's that?
802
00:39:11,015 --> 00:39:13,810
Then, with a flourish
of theatrical wizardry,
803
00:39:13,893 --> 00:39:16,563
they pour liquid nitrogen
over the Chantilly,
804
00:39:16,646 --> 00:39:18,815
giving it a whole new form.
805
00:39:18,898 --> 00:39:25,321
{\an8}♪♪
806
00:39:25,363 --> 00:39:26,865
-That's lovely.
-[ Gasps ]
807
00:39:26,948 --> 00:39:29,033
Oh, wow!
808
00:39:29,117 --> 00:39:35,456
{\an8}♪♪
809
00:39:35,498 --> 00:39:37,125
-It's like popcorn.
-Yeah.
810
00:39:37,166 --> 00:39:39,794
{\an8}♪♪
811
00:39:39,836 --> 00:39:42,714
-This is our version
of strawberries and Chantilly,
812
00:39:42,797 --> 00:39:44,674
which is with
the liquid nitrogen.
813
00:39:44,716 --> 00:39:46,676
And it's based off milk,
814
00:39:46,718 --> 00:39:49,888
which is kind of lighter
and kind of healthy.
815
00:39:49,971 --> 00:39:52,015
-Thank you, ladies.
-Thank you very much.
816
00:39:52,056 --> 00:39:53,391
-Thank you.
-Bravo.
817
00:39:53,474 --> 00:39:57,020
-Wow.
-Oh, my gosh.
818
00:39:57,103 --> 00:40:00,315
Mmm.
819
00:40:00,356 --> 00:40:02,066
-Mmm.
820
00:40:02,150 --> 00:40:03,568
-I love it.
821
00:40:03,651 --> 00:40:05,653
I love the flavor.
822
00:40:05,695 --> 00:40:07,071
-Mm-hmm.
It's very light and delicious.
823
00:40:07,155 --> 00:40:08,781
-Yeah.
824
00:40:08,865 --> 00:40:10,783
-And you can taste
the strawberries.
825
00:40:10,825 --> 00:40:14,078
-I just think it's so playful
to take something so simple
826
00:40:14,162 --> 00:40:15,538
like the whipped cream,
827
00:40:15,622 --> 00:40:19,000
the Chantilly
and to do it in this format.
828
00:40:19,042 --> 00:40:20,752
-So Eric are you
confident about the future
829
00:40:20,835 --> 00:40:23,713
of French gastronomy?
830
00:40:23,796 --> 00:40:26,549
-I am very confident
about French gastronomy
831
00:40:26,633 --> 00:40:28,551
because I see the new generation
832
00:40:28,635 --> 00:40:32,055
and the older generation
keeping the traditions,
833
00:40:32,138 --> 00:40:34,891
but at the same time
moving forward
834
00:40:34,974 --> 00:40:39,312
and adopting new technologies
and being creative.
835
00:40:39,395 --> 00:40:43,107
{\an8}♪♪
836
00:41:10,134 --> 00:41:12,011
-We are succeeding
and we are moving on.
837
00:41:12,053 --> 00:41:15,306
And we are in a 21 century.
It's the beginning.
838
00:41:15,390 --> 00:41:17,725
Can't wait.
839
00:41:17,767 --> 00:41:22,438
-Ah! Bravo, équipe!
840
00:41:22,480 --> 00:41:24,065
-Well, thank you so much.
841
00:41:24,107 --> 00:41:26,526
You helped us tell the history
of French gastronomy.
842
00:41:26,609 --> 00:41:29,028
Felicitation.
Merci.
843
00:41:29,112 --> 00:41:30,405
[ Applause ]
844
00:41:30,446 --> 00:41:34,784
{\an8}♪♪
845
00:41:34,867 --> 00:41:38,371
{\an8}-After this meal,
and talking to my guests,
846
00:41:38,454 --> 00:41:40,498
{\an8}what can I say?
France has it all.
847
00:41:40,581 --> 00:41:43,209
{\an8}Amazing produce, techniques,
848
00:41:43,251 --> 00:41:47,130
{\an8}traditions and the talent
to train the chefs of tomorrow.
849
00:41:47,213 --> 00:41:49,507
{\an8}So what's next?
850
00:41:49,590 --> 00:41:53,302
{\an8}Having created a culinary canon
that dominated the world,
851
00:41:53,386 --> 00:41:56,639
{\an8}France had to break
with its own rules to survive.
852
00:41:56,723 --> 00:41:59,976
{\an8}Now, with unlimited
creative freedom,
853
00:42:00,018 --> 00:42:02,979
{\an8}the sky's the limit
for French cuisine.
854
00:42:03,021 --> 00:42:06,816
{\an8}♪♪
63492
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