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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:17,320 --> 00:00:20,780 Welcome to the 10th annual Reel Rock film tour. 2 00:00:24,990 --> 00:00:27,490 Reel Rock is presented by 3 00:00:29,200 --> 00:00:31,000 The North Face 4 00:00:34,250 --> 00:00:38,670 Working with the world's most accomplished climbers for over 40 years. 5 00:00:40,630 --> 00:00:41,550 "Good job Conrad" 6 00:00:41,590 --> 00:00:44,630 Pushing the boundaries of innovation, 7 00:00:44,630 --> 00:00:46,760 so you can push your own boundaries. 8 00:00:50,220 --> 00:00:52,560 From the gnarliest boulders 9 00:00:52,560 --> 00:00:54,060 to the highest peaks 10 00:00:55,600 --> 00:00:57,020 Never stop exploring. 11 00:00:59,070 --> 00:01:00,780 Also presented by... 12 00:01:01,780 --> 00:01:02,990 Goretex products. 13 00:01:08,740 --> 00:01:10,040 When you need to keep water out, 14 00:01:14,080 --> 00:01:15,290 Or let sweat out, 15 00:01:16,000 --> 00:01:17,000 or keep wind out. 16 00:01:18,170 --> 00:01:20,380 When you need to trust your gear's durability. 17 00:01:20,380 --> 00:01:21,550 Goretex products. 18 00:01:26,260 --> 00:01:28,850 Whatever the weather experience the difference. 19 00:01:33,520 --> 00:01:34,680 For the past decade, 20 00:01:37,690 --> 00:01:41,230 Reel Rock has followed the biggest stories in the climbing world. 21 00:01:43,690 --> 00:01:46,530 We've introduced a new generation of characters. 22 00:01:46,530 --> 00:01:49,450 I'm Al... (clears throat) I'm Alex Honnold. 23 00:01:49,450 --> 00:01:52,080 My name's Ashima. I'm 9 years old. 24 00:01:52,080 --> 00:01:53,330 Enter Daniel Woods 25 00:01:53,330 --> 00:01:54,160 Ueli Steck 26 00:01:54,160 --> 00:01:54,830 Adam Ondra 27 00:01:54,830 --> 00:01:55,870 Sketchy Andy 28 00:01:57,460 --> 00:01:59,670 Captured some of their greatest achievements. 29 00:01:59,710 --> 00:02:02,800 Climbing these walls as fast as humanly possible. 30 00:02:02,840 --> 00:02:05,670 The hardest most beautiful thing I've ever tried. 31 00:02:07,840 --> 00:02:12,260 There's no reason why female climbers can't be as bold as men. 32 00:02:13,640 --> 00:02:16,390 And explored the meaning behind this passion we all share. 33 00:02:17,060 --> 00:02:19,310 Why in God's green earth do you guys climb mountains? 34 00:02:19,400 --> 00:02:20,520 Because we're insane. 35 00:02:21,520 --> 00:02:23,860 To search for something pure or beautiful 36 00:02:25,030 --> 00:02:26,740 You have to really work at it 37 00:02:27,030 --> 00:02:28,610 Climbing in a way is life. 38 00:02:28,610 --> 00:02:31,620 It's the whole process of pushing yourself to a higher place (YELLS) 39 00:02:35,790 --> 00:02:39,620 Thanks to you the global community of climbers, 40 00:02:39,620 --> 00:02:43,920 for joining us to celebrate some of the visionary spirits 41 00:02:43,920 --> 00:02:46,210 and defining moments in our sport. 42 00:02:48,010 --> 00:02:50,590 WOOOO 43 00:02:52,600 --> 00:02:54,260 Reel Rock is also sponsored by 44 00:02:55,810 --> 00:02:57,350 Goal Zero: 45 00:03:00,770 --> 00:03:04,360 the power to help you get out and stay out longer. 46 00:03:10,910 --> 00:03:11,660 Petzl: 47 00:03:16,240 --> 00:03:22,040 Creating innovative tools and techniques to help you access the inaccessible 48 00:03:26,000 --> 00:03:26,760 Sterling Rope:[ 49 00:03:30,840 --> 00:03:36,060 We provide tools that allow climbers to safely confront unforgiving environments. 50 00:03:36,560 --> 00:03:38,350 Choose the right equipment. 51 00:03:40,890 --> 00:03:42,100 Skratch Labs 52 00:03:44,980 --> 00:03:49,110 The makers of real food sports nutrition and hydration products. 53 00:03:56,080 --> 00:03:57,620 Climbing Magazine: 54 00:03:59,000 --> 00:04:04,420 Inspiring and enabling all climbers to achieve greater heights. [ 55 00:04:05,880 --> 00:04:08,000 National Geographic Adventure: 56 00:04:09,050 --> 00:04:12,630 Vote for the next National Geographic Adventurer of the Year 57 00:04:14,930 --> 00:04:16,470 The Access Fund: 58 00:04:16,470 --> 00:04:19,100 day pass to the climbing gym - sixteen dollars, 59 00:04:19,720 --> 00:04:22,560 rope and draws - three hundred and fifty dollars, 60 00:04:22,730 --> 00:04:27,270 protecting America's climbing - just thirty five dollars. 61 00:04:27,690 --> 00:04:29,150 Join the access fund. 62 00:04:30,150 --> 00:04:32,610 And the American Alpine club: 63 00:04:35,370 --> 00:04:38,160 Together we're stronger. 64 00:04:42,750 --> 00:04:47,960 Now Reel Rock 10 brings you a fresh blast of inspiration from the vertical edge. 65 00:04:48,550 --> 00:04:49,130 Featuring: 66 00:04:51,840 --> 00:04:54,300 A groundbreaking alpine odyssey 67 00:04:54,340 --> 00:04:56,590 12000 feet of vertical climbing 68 00:04:56,600 --> 00:04:59,140 How would you not want to try a skyline like that? 69 00:04:59,140 --> 00:05:00,600 I'm feeling a little intimidated at the moment 70 00:05:00,600 --> 00:05:02,640 Pretty epic camp setup 71 00:05:02,680 --> 00:05:06,810 A tribute to one of the great vertical adventurers of our time 72 00:05:10,820 --> 00:05:15,200 An exclusive sneak-peak of the climb that captured the world's imagination. 73 00:05:15,200 --> 00:05:17,990 The Dawn Wall it's like climbing up a sheet of glass. (YELLS) 74 00:05:19,990 --> 00:05:24,460 I don't want to hold up the program, but I want to do this route. 75 00:05:25,000 --> 00:05:28,000 The dangerous game of highball bouldering. 76 00:05:28,000 --> 00:05:31,500 This primal instinct - You cannot fall right now. 77 00:05:31,500 --> 00:05:34,510 Consequences are massive (YELLS) 78 00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:39,430 And a twenty-four hour mad cap competition. 79 00:05:39,430 --> 00:05:41,180 It's like the burning man of climbing 80 00:05:43,930 --> 00:05:45,060 I'm coming for you Mason. 81 00:05:45,940 --> 00:05:48,810 How was that fall Honnold? How'd that feel? 82 00:05:50,650 --> 00:05:52,440 We're on the summit 83 00:05:52,650 --> 00:05:55,650 Get ready for Reel Rock 10. 84 00:06:07,920 --> 00:06:09,090 Caldwell: Dear Fitz, 85 00:06:12,510 --> 00:06:17,300 It’s hard to believe that just one week ago, I said goodbye to you and your mom 86 00:06:17,300 --> 00:06:19,590 as you boarded the bus to start your travels home, 87 00:06:19,600 --> 00:06:21,560 and I hiked into the mountains. 88 00:06:21,560 --> 00:06:25,680 My partner Alex and I had dreamed like so many others 89 00:06:25,690 --> 00:06:27,730 of traversing the entire Fitz Roy range. 90 00:06:27,730 --> 00:06:32,020 It was an obvious goal, but I really didn’t believe we would succeed. 91 00:06:32,030 --> 00:06:36,450 No one had yet. It was just too big. 92 00:06:54,130 --> 00:06:56,880 Garibotti: I don’t think you’ll find another place like this anywhere in the world. 93 00:06:58,260 --> 00:06:59,970 Lama: Patagonia definitely is incredible. 94 00:06:59,970 --> 00:07:02,310 Garibotti: These towers that are shooting through the sky. 95 00:07:02,390 --> 00:07:06,140 Cordes: 5000 foot faces rising straight out of the glacier, 96 00:07:06,140 --> 00:07:08,520 like rows of sharpened teeth. 97 00:07:09,150 --> 00:07:12,610 Siadak: Massive walls split by ribbons of ice. 98 00:07:12,610 --> 00:07:16,070 Cordes: If you’re a climber you can’t help but be drawn to these mountains. 99 00:07:16,070 --> 00:07:17,570 They’re so spectacular. 100 00:07:17,740 --> 00:07:20,030 Garibotti: The climbing here is very technically challenging, 101 00:07:20,030 --> 00:07:22,990 you know you’re talking about always climbing vertical granite. 102 00:07:23,330 --> 00:07:25,990 Chouinard: Patagonia is the proving ground that you can do 103 00:07:26,000 --> 00:07:31,080 Yosemite style climbs but in a real alpine environment. 104 00:07:31,080 --> 00:07:33,250 Siadak: There’s a lot of ice and mixed climbing 105 00:07:34,420 --> 00:07:37,260 What we like to call alpine trickery. 106 00:07:38,010 --> 00:07:41,430 Cordes: The rock can be really loose and incredibly dangerous. 107 00:07:42,010 --> 00:07:44,140 Siadak: I accidentally ripped off this huge flake. 108 00:07:44,140 --> 00:07:48,020 That’s right where we were. Right where that came down. 109 00:07:48,020 --> 00:07:51,810 There’s no easy way up any single one of these peaks. 110 00:07:51,810 --> 00:07:53,440 Just mangled my fingers. 111 00:07:53,440 --> 00:07:56,190 We’ve been climbing the last 17 hours. 112 00:07:56,190 --> 00:08:00,240 We haven’t had like any water to drink. 113 00:08:00,240 --> 00:08:02,570 And no easy way off of them either. 114 00:08:02,570 --> 00:08:05,370 Climber: This is really scary for me. 115 00:08:05,370 --> 00:08:09,040 Lama: One of the biggest problems in climbing in Patagonia is definitely the weather. 116 00:08:09,080 --> 00:08:12,830 Chouinard: You get terrible weather there. You’re so close to the Pacific. 117 00:08:12,830 --> 00:08:16,550 Cordes: The storms come off the ocean. They just slam into the mountains. 118 00:08:16,550 --> 00:08:19,420 So sudden and so ferocious. 119 00:08:19,670 --> 00:08:23,720 Lama: When the wind is blowing really hard I mean it can blow you off the mountain. 120 00:08:23,720 --> 00:08:27,850 Chouinard: If you get caught in one of those storms you’re in big trouble. 121 00:08:27,850 --> 00:08:30,980 Cordes: These crazy rime ice mushrooms form, 122 00:08:30,980 --> 00:08:35,560 and then when the sun hits and the rime starts to peel off 123 00:08:35,570 --> 00:08:39,780 it can become like a bombing range. 124 00:08:39,780 --> 00:08:43,570 Garibotti: It’s a very very serious place that should not be taken lightly. 125 00:08:43,570 --> 00:08:45,370 Climber: I want to go home. 126 00:08:49,830 --> 00:08:54,040 Siadak: This range has played such a role in the history of alpinism. 127 00:08:54,040 --> 00:08:57,710 Going all the way back to Yvon Chouinard and the fun hogs. 128 00:08:57,880 --> 00:09:02,300 Chouinard: I first went to Patagonia in 1968 to climb Fitz Roy. 129 00:09:02,300 --> 00:09:05,720 That skyline is pretty amazing 130 00:09:05,720 --> 00:09:09,560 and Fitz Roy was one of the most beautiful mountains I've ever seen. 131 00:09:09,560 --> 00:09:17,190 The weather was bad. But we stuck it out 31 days in an ice cave. 132 00:09:17,190 --> 00:09:20,490 And we finally climbed Fitz Roy by a new route. 133 00:09:20,860 --> 00:09:25,160 Cordes: Climbers have come here for the last 50 years to set new standards. 134 00:09:25,330 --> 00:09:27,320 Over the past decade or so 135 00:09:27,570 --> 00:09:30,360 we have been starting to see a new school of alpinism. 136 00:09:30,540 --> 00:09:34,920 Garibotti: Right now we're interested in these enchainments or these long traverses. 137 00:09:34,920 --> 00:09:38,090 Siadak: Extremely obvious geographical or aesthetic lines. 138 00:09:38,090 --> 00:09:40,380 Garibotti: With this new vision of alpinism, 139 00:09:40,380 --> 00:09:43,550 it's only natural that the Fitz Traverse would become 140 00:09:43,550 --> 00:09:46,220 one of the big, big climbs to pick. 141 00:09:47,800 --> 00:09:52,350 Siadak: The first thing you see even from a hundred miles away as you're driving into town 142 00:09:52,350 --> 00:09:58,810 is the Fitz Roy skyline. 143 00:09:58,820 --> 00:10:02,900 The full Fitz Traverse is the biggest project waiting to get done. 144 00:10:02,900 --> 00:10:05,700 Haley: 7 beautiful summits all lined up in one straight ridge. 145 00:10:05,700 --> 00:10:10,580 Siadak: To climb all of those peaks in one go. 146 00:10:10,580 --> 00:10:15,370 Cordes: Enchaining the Fitz Roy skyline, you know it's sort of the fantasy, the daydream. 147 00:10:15,370 --> 00:10:17,710 Lama: Definitely one of the most beautiful lines in the world. 148 00:10:17,710 --> 00:10:21,670 Garibotti: It's very very jagged, very steep, and very long. 149 00:10:21,670 --> 00:10:24,510 Haley: It's an objective that has been talked about for a long time. 150 00:10:24,510 --> 00:10:25,970 Siadak: You know, who's gonna do it? 151 00:10:29,050 --> 00:10:33,390 have got to be some grizzled alpinist. 152 00:10:33,390 --> 00:10:37,480 Wait, Tommy? You mean the rock climber? 153 00:10:37,650 --> 00:10:43,820 Spotters: Come on! You had it man, you had it. Come on, come on, get it! Yeah! 154 00:10:44,070 --> 00:10:48,240 Caldwell: I've been climbing my whole life but I was kind of a fair weather rock climber. 155 00:10:48,240 --> 00:10:50,240 When I thought of Patagonia, I thought of 156 00:10:50,240 --> 00:10:53,700 burly dudes with big beards suffering in the mountains. 157 00:10:56,290 --> 00:10:58,580 I was a scrawny little sport climbing kid, you know, 158 00:10:58,580 --> 00:11:00,580 I didn't, I didn't belong in the mountains like that. 159 00:11:00,590 --> 00:11:06,510 But then I came down with my friend Topher and had, just a mind-blowing trip. 160 00:11:06,510 --> 00:11:08,470 Donahue: When I first brought Tommy to Patagonia, 161 00:11:08,470 --> 00:11:12,010 I knew that if he could handle the ice and the snow and the wind, 162 00:11:12,010 --> 00:11:15,350 if I could get him to the rock, that he would crush it, and then all I had to do was hang on. 163 00:11:16,430 --> 00:11:19,020 Caldwell: Once you get to the rock climbing, it's incredible. 164 00:11:19,020 --> 00:11:21,520 I mean it was like nothing else I've experienced. 165 00:11:21,520 --> 00:11:26,860 Donahue: We did the first free ascent of the east face of Fitz Roy. This almost mile-tall wall. 166 00:11:26,860 --> 00:11:30,200 Caldwell: 50 hours in a continuous push without sleeping. 167 00:11:30,200 --> 00:11:31,780 Donahue: Lots of hard 5.12 climbing. 168 00:11:31,780 --> 00:11:36,700 We were exhausted and hallucinating by the end but Tommy was unstoppable. 169 00:11:37,250 --> 00:11:42,580 Caldwell: It was kind of this life-changing climb that left me with this love of this place. 170 00:11:42,590 --> 00:11:45,550 Donahue: It was very clear that he could change the game in Patagonia. 171 00:11:47,670 --> 00:11:52,470 Caldwell: I came back a couple more times and I'd always see that Fitz Roy massif ridgeline. 172 00:11:52,470 --> 00:11:57,310 It's one of the most iconic mountain ranges in the world 173 00:11:57,310 --> 00:12:01,850 and to traverse the entire ridgeline has got to be one of the coolest things I can think of. 174 00:12:01,850 --> 00:12:05,610 But at the same time it seemed kind of absurd. 175 00:12:05,610 --> 00:12:09,700 12,000 feet of vertical climbing, 176 00:12:09,700 --> 00:12:11,110 hundreds of rappels. 177 00:12:11,110 --> 00:12:17,080 We'd have to move incredibly fast and brave some kind of dangerous stuff. 178 00:12:17,080 --> 00:12:19,290 And that was the part I was most worried about. 179 00:12:19,910 --> 00:12:23,420 But then I went to Yosemite and climbed with Alex. 180 00:12:25,090 --> 00:12:29,670 He's got this amazing ability to control fear. 181 00:12:29,670 --> 00:12:32,050 The idea of being unroped, 182 00:12:32,050 --> 00:12:37,260 just having your fingertips and your toes smearing up this slippery granite is like, 183 00:12:37,270 --> 00:12:39,020 the scariest thing you can imagine. 184 00:12:39,020 --> 00:12:41,560 And to Alex, that's no big deal. 185 00:12:41,560 --> 00:12:42,810 Like how does that work? 186 00:12:42,810 --> 00:12:48,480 We all know Alex is super bold but his other climbing that he does is badass too. 187 00:12:49,400 --> 00:12:52,320 Alex and Hans Florine made the speed record in the Nose. 188 00:12:52,320 --> 00:12:55,160 3000 feet in 2 and a half hours. 189 00:12:56,120 --> 00:12:59,790 That's the kind of skills you would have to employ to do something like the Fitz Traverse. 190 00:13:00,750 --> 00:13:03,420 Honnold: Tommy has put up some of the hardest routes in the country. 191 00:13:03,420 --> 00:13:06,460 I've been reading news stories about his climbing since I was a little kid. 192 00:13:06,460 --> 00:13:09,170 And so I just thought of him as some climbing god. 193 00:13:09,920 --> 00:13:13,430 Caldwell: Alex asked me to climb this triple linkup here in Yosemite 194 00:13:13,430 --> 00:13:16,350 where we free climbed El Cap Half Dome and Mt. Watkins in a day. 195 00:13:17,470 --> 00:13:20,270 And I hadn't really climbed with Alex much at all before that. 196 00:13:20,270 --> 00:13:23,270 And it was kind of a test for the Fitz Traverse. 197 00:13:23,270 --> 00:13:26,480 You know Alex is so bold that I thought maybe we'd just fall to our death, 198 00:13:26,480 --> 00:13:31,940 but it turns out that his boldness makes him incredible efficient. 199 00:13:31,940 --> 00:13:36,030 He can run up huge chunks of rock in no time at all. 200 00:13:37,370 --> 00:13:38,700 Honnold: Yay. 201 00:13:38,790 --> 00:13:42,250 Caldwell: Climbing that fast there's obviously a huge element of risk, 202 00:13:42,250 --> 00:13:46,460 but Alex has this confidence that is totally contagious. 203 00:13:46,460 --> 00:13:49,710 When I'm climbing with him I just believe that I'm not gonna fall. 204 00:13:49,710 --> 00:13:51,170 It's like a drug. 205 00:13:51,210 --> 00:13:53,300 Honnold: I'm not like encouraging him to take more risk. 206 00:13:53,300 --> 00:13:57,050 I'm just sort of giving him a glimpse of like what you get to do when you do take a little risk. 207 00:13:58,810 --> 00:14:04,310 Caldwell: We climbed the 3 biggest features in Yosemite in under 24 hours. 208 00:14:04,310 --> 00:14:06,480 Honnold: Dude that was off the hook. 209 00:14:06,480 --> 00:14:07,810 Caldwell: Good work. 210 00:14:07,810 --> 00:14:10,820 Honnold: I mean to free climb 7000 feet of granite in a single day. 211 00:14:10,820 --> 00:14:14,490 Caldwell: It's hard to say no after you've experienced that. 212 00:14:14,700 --> 00:14:17,410 Honnold: He was like wow we should do this more. 213 00:14:17,410 --> 00:14:20,410 You know this is pretty fun. 214 00:14:20,410 --> 00:14:22,830 Caldwell: Something kind of clicked. I was like this is what it would take. 215 00:14:22,830 --> 00:14:25,160 Honnold: Tommy told me that he wanted to climb the Fitz Traverse. 216 00:14:25,160 --> 00:14:27,330 I didn't even know what that means exactly. 217 00:14:27,750 --> 00:14:31,130 Caldwell: The one thing that he's not is an experienced alpinist. 218 00:14:32,550 --> 00:14:35,880 never had much interest in alpine climbing. I don't know how to use ice tools. 219 00:14:35,880 --> 00:14:39,850 I don't like being cold. But if Tommy says we can do it I'm willing to go with him. 220 00:14:39,850 --> 00:14:42,270 I mean how bad can it be? 221 00:14:56,700 --> 00:14:59,910 Caldwell: El Chalten is the town at the base of the Fitz Roy range. 222 00:14:59,910 --> 00:15:03,660 When you arrive in the town you see climbers everywhere. 223 00:15:04,950 --> 00:15:09,210 It's like Camp 4 in South America for really hardcore alpine climbers. 224 00:15:09,790 --> 00:15:14,670 Cordes: Every season the eyes of the alpine climbing world focus on Patagonia. 225 00:15:14,670 --> 00:15:17,510 Everybody's got their objectives. 226 00:15:21,300 --> 00:15:24,470 Climber: A lot of precip coming to visit us tomorrow. 227 00:15:24,470 --> 00:15:27,430 Lama: Just a couple of days where it's not stormy, 228 00:15:27,440 --> 00:15:30,770 where the conditions are good so we can go up 229 00:15:30,770 --> 00:15:34,480 and climb the mountains quick and come down within the window. 230 00:15:34,480 --> 00:15:36,570 Lempe: Really windy! 231 00:15:36,990 --> 00:15:39,860 Caldwell: This year everybody we had talked to said the weather had sucked. 232 00:15:39,860 --> 00:15:42,030 The mountains were covered in rime. 233 00:15:42,910 --> 00:15:49,330 Haley: I hadn't put rock shoes on a single day in the mountains in 3 months of being here. 234 00:15:49,750 --> 00:15:51,830 Climber: Lot of snow and ice. 235 00:15:51,830 --> 00:15:55,000 Trying to stay in shape for when the weather does get good. 236 00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:57,510 Hopefully we'll all be ready to get out there. 237 00:15:57,510 --> 00:15:59,010 Lama: All the climbers are hanging out 238 00:15:59,010 --> 00:16:02,140 constantly talking about when are you going up? 239 00:16:02,140 --> 00:16:03,890 Which mountain are you gonna try? 240 00:16:05,930 --> 00:16:08,430 Becca Caldwell: So what do you guys think you're gonna climb? 241 00:16:08,430 --> 00:16:10,770 It's a little wintry in the mountains. 242 00:16:10,770 --> 00:16:12,480 Caldwell: Something snowy probably. 243 00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:14,650 We're gonna turn into alpine climbers 244 00:16:14,650 --> 00:16:18,530 California rock climbers. See how that goes. 245 00:16:19,490 --> 00:16:22,740 Honnold: I know how it's gonna go for me. Not that well. 246 00:16:22,870 --> 00:16:24,990 Caldwell: This year I decided to bring my whole family. 247 00:16:24,990 --> 00:16:29,210 I couldn't really imagine being away from them for a month. 248 00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:34,790 So what do you think of this Alex? 249 00:16:38,300 --> 00:16:41,970 Honnold: I can't wait to have a child. (laughs) 250 00:16:41,970 --> 00:16:46,600 Caldwell: I named my son Fitz after the mountain because this place has been so special to me. 251 00:16:51,890 --> 00:16:54,560 Honnold: Staying with Tommy and his wife Becca and his baby, 252 00:16:54,560 --> 00:16:56,270 it's kind of a weird scene. 253 00:16:56,270 --> 00:16:59,990 I definitely have not hung out with babies a lot before this trip. 254 00:17:03,820 --> 00:17:05,120 It's funny that Tommy's like a cutting-edge climber 255 00:17:05,120 --> 00:17:07,950 but then he spends the majority of his time as like a family man. 256 00:17:07,950 --> 00:17:09,790 Like taking care of the kid. 257 00:17:09,790 --> 00:17:12,120 I don't understand how he has the energy. 258 00:17:12,580 --> 00:17:16,840 Caldwell: Having my family down here with me definitely gives me pause. 259 00:17:16,840 --> 00:17:19,050 I'm trying to figure out that balance 260 00:17:19,050 --> 00:17:23,220 to push myself as a climber and still be a good husband and a father. 261 00:17:23,220 --> 00:17:26,510 As we're waiting for the weather to clear in El Chalten 262 00:17:26,510 --> 00:17:28,560 we learned that we had some competition. 263 00:17:28,560 --> 00:17:32,850 Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley were gonna try the Fitz Traverse as well. 264 00:17:32,850 --> 00:17:38,020 Rolo and Colin are the Patagonia experts. Rolo wrote the guidebook. 265 00:17:38,230 --> 00:17:40,230 Cordes: He's the king of Patagonia. 266 00:17:40,230 --> 00:17:43,900 Caldwell: And one of his dreams was to climb the Fitz Traverse. 267 00:17:43,910 --> 00:17:45,950 Garibotti: How would you not want to try a skyline like that? 268 00:17:45,950 --> 00:17:48,240 I mean you see it and it's just the only thing. 269 00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:50,080 Oh yeah I want to go up and down all that thing. 270 00:17:50,790 --> 00:17:54,420 Cordes: Colin Haley, in recent years, he's the most accomplished Patagonian climber. 271 00:17:54,620 --> 00:17:59,170 Haley: The Fitz Traverse was like the next clear prize. 272 00:17:59,170 --> 00:18:01,670 Rolo and I tried it twice together. 273 00:18:01,880 --> 00:18:03,760 Garibotti: Both times we didn't get very far. 274 00:18:03,970 --> 00:18:07,890 Haley: I thought that Tommy and Alex had a good chance of pulling it off. 275 00:18:07,890 --> 00:18:12,390 And I definitely thought that Rolo and I had a good chance of pulling it off also. 276 00:18:12,390 --> 00:18:15,440 Obviously all of us would have liked to pull it off first. 277 00:18:15,480 --> 00:18:17,110 Honnold: All it takes is one good weather window. 278 00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:21,780 The whole weather forecasting thing is a bit beyond me. 279 00:18:21,780 --> 00:18:23,690 This means it's gonna be awesome. 280 00:18:23,700 --> 00:18:26,450 This right here means that we're gonna send the gnar. 281 00:18:27,410 --> 00:18:29,200 Caldwell: The pressure is just skyrocketing. 282 00:18:29,200 --> 00:18:31,910 10/20 is supposed to be good, really good weather. 283 00:18:31,910 --> 00:18:35,080 Finally this weather window started to show up on the forecast. 284 00:18:35,080 --> 00:18:39,000 Haley: 5 and a half or 6 amazing days of perfect weather. 285 00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:40,710 Caldwell: Everybody gets excited. 286 00:18:42,760 --> 00:18:46,090 Honnold: The people are like, oh that's such a big window! It's gonna be so epic! 287 00:18:46,090 --> 00:18:49,140 Caldwell: This never happens. We gotta go! We better go big! 288 00:18:49,140 --> 00:18:52,720 Haley: It was definitely the opportunity to try the Fitz Traverse. 289 00:18:52,720 --> 00:18:54,680 Caldwell: Headlamps... here we go. 290 00:18:54,680 --> 00:18:57,890 Honnold: These things weigh 1.2 pounds each. 291 00:18:57,900 --> 00:18:59,690 Garibotti: I think the crux of the traverse is logistical. 292 00:18:59,690 --> 00:19:02,980 Knowing how to sleep night after night on a climb. 293 00:19:02,980 --> 00:19:07,240 Knowing how much food to carry and not one gram more or one gram less. 294 00:19:07,240 --> 00:19:09,360 Yeah it might be quite tricky for Alex and Tommy. 295 00:19:09,370 --> 00:19:13,200 Two people with a lot of skills and not that much know-how. 296 00:19:14,620 --> 00:19:18,710 Caldwell: Potato chips. Crunch. 297 00:19:18,710 --> 00:19:21,460 Honnold: Those breakfasts look really good. Oatmeal with mixed nuts and raisins and bananas. 298 00:19:21,460 --> 00:19:24,250 Caldwell: The one advantage that me and Alex have is that 299 00:19:24,260 --> 00:19:27,720 we'll be able to climb the long sections of clean rock really fast. 300 00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:32,310 Honnold: This is like not bad for bad for climbing easy terrain. Just depends how easy it is. 301 00:19:34,850 --> 00:19:39,770 Bye little Fitzy. 302 00:19:39,770 --> 00:19:40,770 Caldwell: Miss you buddy. 303 00:19:40,770 --> 00:19:45,780 I have this big conflict now that I have a loving wife and kid. 304 00:19:45,780 --> 00:19:50,410 I feel like doing things that could potentially kill me is really selfish. 305 00:19:50,740 --> 00:19:53,790 Gonna go climb your mountain. Hopefully. 306 00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:56,500 Becca Caldwell: Make sure you take pictures. 307 00:19:56,660 --> 00:19:57,660 It's a beautiful day. 308 00:19:58,710 --> 00:20:00,370 Beautiful day for sending. 309 00:20:00,380 --> 00:20:01,250 Honnold: Awesome. 310 00:20:01,250 --> 00:20:02,250 Becca Caldwell: Awesome. 311 00:20:02,250 --> 00:20:04,170 Caldwell: But I love this life, 312 00:20:04,170 --> 00:20:06,550 going into the mountains and doing adventurous things, 313 00:20:06,550 --> 00:20:08,840 that makes me who I am. 314 00:20:08,840 --> 00:20:11,680 Bye, I love you. 315 00:20:11,680 --> 00:20:11,760 Becca: Love you too. 316 00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:13,850 Caldwell: See you soon. 317 00:20:13,850 --> 00:20:15,060 Becca Caldwell : I'm gonna miss you. 318 00:20:15,060 --> 00:20:15,510 Caldwell: I'm gonna miss you too. 319 00:20:15,520 --> 00:20:16,640 Becca Caldwell: Be safe ok? 320 00:20:17,600 --> 00:20:21,060 Caldwell: And I want to show Fitz a life where you don't live in fear. 321 00:20:21,060 --> 00:20:25,940 Where you're inspired to dream big and just kind of go for it. 322 00:20:25,940 --> 00:20:30,400 I have convinced myself that it is possible to go out 323 00:20:30,410 --> 00:20:35,620 and have these really adventurous experiences and be safe. 324 00:20:35,620 --> 00:20:36,540 Hopefully I'm right. 325 00:20:37,750 --> 00:20:39,830 Caldwell: Wow you can see the whole ridge right now. 326 00:20:39,830 --> 00:20:41,960 Those mountains look kind of intense. 327 00:20:43,630 --> 00:20:45,960 Honnold: Kind of. They don't look that big. 328 00:20:45,960 --> 00:20:49,800 Caldwell: Little rimed up. (laughs) They're kind of small. 329 00:20:49,800 --> 00:20:52,550 Honnold: Yeah I mean, take a couple of hours I guess. 330 00:20:52,550 --> 00:20:54,760 Caldwell: I think those mountains look pretty intense. 331 00:20:54,760 --> 00:20:55,550 Honnold: Yeah. 332 00:20:55,560 --> 00:20:59,890 Caldwell: I didn't have too many concerns with Alex except for that he might see all the snow 333 00:20:59,890 --> 00:21:02,060 and be like screw it I don't want to deal with this. 334 00:21:02,810 --> 00:21:05,110 The north faces are pretty plastered with snow. 335 00:21:05,110 --> 00:21:08,650 Honnold: I just can't get over how gnarly it looks here. 336 00:21:08,650 --> 00:21:11,650 Caldwell: It's gonna suck because we're gonna be like waist-deep in slog. 337 00:21:11,650 --> 00:21:16,370 Honnold: Note to viewers, Tommy will be waist-deep, I will be behind, filming. 338 00:21:16,370 --> 00:21:19,290 I want to do robot voiceover for this whole movie. 339 00:21:19,830 --> 00:21:23,120 Honnold: There goes Tommy breaking trail up a horrible slope. 340 00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:25,670 Caldwell: Got some good snow conditions going on. 341 00:21:25,670 --> 00:21:27,250 Honnold: Yeah this is a nightmare. 342 00:21:28,250 --> 00:21:30,880 Caldwell: We camped out at the start of the route. 343 00:21:31,260 --> 00:21:32,260 Caldwell: Day highlights. 344 00:21:32,260 --> 00:21:36,680 Honnold: Probably the most interesting part of the day was falling in a crevasse. 345 00:21:37,850 --> 00:21:41,310 Caldwell: The worst part of the day was leaving Becca and Fitz. 346 00:21:41,310 --> 00:21:42,980 Honnold: Aw, you're such a sap. 347 00:21:42,980 --> 00:21:44,940 Caldwell: Yeah, that was the worst part. 348 00:21:44,940 --> 00:21:51,070 Honnold: So, as an older climber, do you feel like you're losing your edge by having a family? 349 00:21:51,070 --> 00:21:54,360 Caldwell: That's an interesting question. Your questions are hard. 350 00:21:54,360 --> 00:21:56,160 Honnold: That is a diplomatic way of saying yes. 351 00:21:56,160 --> 00:21:58,530 Caldwell: I'll tell you after this traverse I guess. 352 00:21:58,530 --> 00:21:59,700 Honnold: I guess we'll see. 353 00:21:59,700 --> 00:22:03,160 Caldwell: Yet to be determined. So far, it seems pretty much the same. 354 00:22:03,160 --> 00:22:08,290 Cause I never was trying to kill myself in the first place. I'm still not trying to kill myself. 355 00:22:08,290 --> 00:22:13,300 Honnold: Yeah, safety first. 356 00:22:13,300 --> 00:22:17,300 Caldwell: I'm pretty stoked to race for the Fitz Roy range. 357 00:22:17,300 --> 00:22:19,300 Honnold: Yeah, this is actually gonna be kind of classic. 358 00:22:19,310 --> 00:22:22,930 Caldwell: We felt like such gumbies compared to Rolo and Colin. 359 00:22:22,930 --> 00:22:25,890 Haley: Tommy knows what he's doing in the mountains pretty well. 360 00:22:25,900 --> 00:22:27,600 Caldwell: We are snow climbers. 361 00:22:27,610 --> 00:22:31,320 Haley: Alex... barely at all. 362 00:22:31,320 --> 00:22:36,410 They're kind of bumbling along in terms of alpine climbing skills. 363 00:22:36,410 --> 00:22:39,910 Honnold: This is what it takes to practice extreme alpinism. 364 00:22:39,910 --> 00:22:41,740 Caldwell: We show up at the base. 365 00:22:41,740 --> 00:22:45,910 Alex had brought the wrong kind of crampon. 366 00:22:45,920 --> 00:22:48,420 Caldwell: His crampon was made to clip onto a mountain boot 367 00:22:48,420 --> 00:22:50,420 and all we had were Gore-Tex tennis shoes. 368 00:22:50,420 --> 00:22:52,340 Honnold: I wouldn't know the difference. 369 00:22:52,340 --> 00:22:55,340 Caldwell: It was gonna be really difficult potentially a little dangerous. 370 00:22:55,340 --> 00:22:58,760 There was a good chance his crampons were just gonna fall right off. 371 00:22:59,680 --> 00:23:02,930 Haley: We ran into Tommy and Alex at the start of the Fitz Traverse. 372 00:23:02,930 --> 00:23:05,640 We chatted with them for a few minutes and then started up. 373 00:23:06,100 --> 00:23:09,810 Caldwell: They started up a big snow gully. 374 00:23:09,810 --> 00:23:11,860 Race to the summit! 375 00:23:12,360 --> 00:23:15,530 Being rock climbers we did the steep technical rock climb. 376 00:23:15,530 --> 00:23:16,320 Honnold: Bye. 377 00:23:16,320 --> 00:23:17,070 Caldwell: Climbing the mountain. 378 00:23:17,070 --> 00:23:18,740 Honnold: Climbing the mountain. 379 00:23:19,450 --> 00:23:22,950 Caldwell: You're not on belay by the way. 380 00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:28,370 We just didn't even know what to expect. 381 00:23:28,370 --> 00:23:31,130 Alex is climbing with an ice tool clipped to his harness. 382 00:23:31,130 --> 00:23:36,090 Honnold: The conditions on the first day were like, they seemed pretty bad, I don't know. 383 00:23:40,970 --> 00:23:44,390 Caldwell: Just chopping ice out of all the cracks as we tried to climb 'em. 384 00:23:44,390 --> 00:23:46,020 Honnold: It was kind of scary. 385 00:23:46,020 --> 00:23:49,850 Like wow this is a far cry from Yosemite in the summer you know? 386 00:23:52,110 --> 00:23:57,860 Felt like casting adrift in the ocean of rock. You're just like who knows where we're going. 387 00:23:58,990 --> 00:24:02,410 Oh yeah Tommy. How was that pitch? 388 00:24:02,410 --> 00:24:04,740 Caldwell: My hand's bleeding, my jacket's full of holes. 389 00:24:04,740 --> 00:24:07,500 Honnold: Here we are our typical alpine anchor. We got our one piece. 390 00:24:07,500 --> 00:24:12,000 We got our big slung horn thing which had actually fallen off when I got here. 391 00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:15,050 but I put back on. And we called it bomber. 392 00:24:15,050 --> 00:24:20,260 Let's see how do I zoom? How do you zoom on this thing? Do you turn the lens? 393 00:24:20,430 --> 00:24:21,430 Caldwell: That doesn't do much. 394 00:24:21,430 --> 00:24:24,140 Honnold: Oh I see, oh yeah it barely zooms. 395 00:24:24,140 --> 00:24:27,970 That was a pathetic little zoom. I'm getting a detail shot. 396 00:24:27,980 --> 00:24:32,020 Oh yeah. Actually this is just a groin shot. I like that. 397 00:24:32,020 --> 00:24:33,560 Caldwell: You love the groin shots. 398 00:24:33,690 --> 00:24:36,570 Honnold: This is no place for joking dude. This is extreme alpinism. 399 00:24:36,570 --> 00:24:39,900 Ice tool, normal piece of the rack. Quite a bummer. 400 00:24:39,900 --> 00:24:45,450 A 35 year old locking biner. That locker is probably your dad's. 401 00:24:45,450 --> 00:24:46,080 Caldwell: It was my dad's. 402 00:24:46,080 --> 00:24:48,200 Honnold: Oh was it? There you go? 403 00:24:48,200 --> 00:24:49,410 Caldwell: Yeah. I like it though. 404 00:24:51,620 --> 00:24:56,880 Honnold: I'm gonna try zooming in as you masticate. Oh that is oh my gosh. 405 00:24:56,880 --> 00:24:59,170 I'm starting to feel somewhat artistic. 406 00:24:59,510 --> 00:25:01,880 Caldwell: As I masticate? That's how you say it? 407 00:25:01,880 --> 00:25:04,140 Honnold: Yeah, as you masticate. I like that word. 408 00:25:04,140 --> 00:25:08,220 Caldwell: I don't know if I want you to video me masticating. 409 00:25:08,220 --> 00:25:11,270 Honnold: I think people want to see things go in your mouth like that. 410 00:25:13,060 --> 00:25:16,110 Caldwell: Huh, I wonder where we go across. Maybe just right here huh? 411 00:25:16,440 --> 00:25:19,610 Honnold: Yeah I think you just quest along to this little thing and then you're in the corner. 412 00:25:19,610 --> 00:25:22,900 Caldwell: Of course you don't think it looks extreme. 413 00:25:22,910 --> 00:25:26,740 You don't think anything looks big or hard. 414 00:25:27,830 --> 00:25:30,250 Honnold: Boy, that looks run out Tommy. 415 00:25:30,660 --> 00:25:32,460 Caldwell: Yeah, this sucks. 416 00:25:32,460 --> 00:25:35,920 Honnold: It's like at least 3 meters back to the anchor. 417 00:25:35,920 --> 00:25:37,420 Caldwell: You're not even belaying me. 418 00:25:37,420 --> 00:25:42,130 Honnold: Yeah I am! Hands-free dude. Belaying. 419 00:25:42,130 --> 00:25:46,850 Your ice axe is silhouetted against the skyline and it's like pretty epic. 420 00:25:46,850 --> 00:25:48,680 You definitely look like an alpinist. 421 00:25:52,060 --> 00:25:54,850 Caldwell: We thought Colin and Rolo were far ahead of us, 422 00:25:54,850 --> 00:25:58,520 but as we neared the top of Guillaumet they were just sitting on a ledge. 423 00:25:58,520 --> 00:26:01,110 Haley: Rolo was feeling super sick and that was it for us. 424 00:26:01,110 --> 00:26:02,030 Garibotti: We had to go down. 425 00:26:02,030 --> 00:26:06,070 Haley: We knew that Alex had these crampons that really weren't gonna work 426 00:26:06,070 --> 00:26:07,620 and they were just gonna try anyways. 427 00:26:07,620 --> 00:26:11,580 Caldwell: Before they went down Rolo actually took off his own crampons 428 00:26:11,580 --> 00:26:12,290 and gave them to Alex. 429 00:26:12,290 --> 00:26:14,460 Which was a giant gesture. 430 00:26:14,460 --> 00:26:17,290 Honnold: For Rolo to just basically give up his dream of doing the Fitz Traverse, 431 00:26:17,290 --> 00:26:20,210 and then give me the tools that I need to finish the traverse, 432 00:26:20,210 --> 00:26:22,210 you know I mean that's very big of him. 433 00:26:22,220 --> 00:26:24,010 Garibotti: We offered them a bunch of water and 434 00:26:24,010 --> 00:26:26,640 basically gave them a hand in whatever we could. 435 00:26:26,640 --> 00:26:29,600 Our small participation in their traverse. 436 00:26:29,600 --> 00:26:33,020 Our small contribution is a pair of crampons. 437 00:26:33,600 --> 00:26:37,560 I'm psyched. I mean these are the two most capable rock climbers in the world at the moment. 438 00:26:37,560 --> 00:26:41,570 With their level of skill they can more than make up for 439 00:26:41,570 --> 00:26:46,410 all their little missteps in terms of logistical preparation and equipment. 440 00:26:46,990 --> 00:26:48,240 Caldwell: Yeah! 441 00:26:53,910 --> 00:26:57,250 Honnold: It took us 2 and a half hours to summit Guillaument. The beginning of the traverse. 442 00:26:57,250 --> 00:26:58,670 Caldwell: Yeah a little bit of ice mining. 443 00:26:58,670 --> 00:27:01,340 Honnold: Yeah which isn't so bad considering it's pretty snowy. 444 00:27:01,340 --> 00:27:03,170 Caldwell: It is absolutely gorgeous. 445 00:27:03,170 --> 00:27:04,420 Honnold: Yeah this is amazing. 446 00:27:04,420 --> 00:27:06,050 Caldwell: No wind. Check out our view. 447 00:27:06,050 --> 00:27:07,010 Honnold: So stoked. 448 00:27:07,010 --> 00:27:08,800 Caldwell: That's Fitz. 449 00:27:08,800 --> 00:27:11,600 That is Pier Giorgio I guess. Just learned from Rolo. 450 00:27:11,600 --> 00:27:13,310 Honnold: Oh there's Cerro Torre dude. 451 00:27:13,310 --> 00:27:14,930 Caldwell: Oh yeah there's Cerro Torre. ahhh!! 452 00:27:14,930 --> 00:27:19,230 Honnold: This is so sick. Shabam. Ice. 453 00:27:19,230 --> 00:27:22,110 Caldwell: After the summit of Guillaument 454 00:27:22,110 --> 00:27:25,440 that part of the ridge you just have all these little fingers sticking up 455 00:27:25,450 --> 00:27:29,200 and you're kind of weaving around 'em and you're going up on top of some of 'em. 456 00:27:29,200 --> 00:27:35,290 Look off the sides and look for leges that you have to then rappel down to and traverse across. 457 00:27:35,290 --> 00:27:40,000 It's really, really a huge routefinding challenge. 458 00:27:42,550 --> 00:27:45,050 Honnold: There's Tommy sending the gnar. 459 00:27:45,300 --> 00:27:47,420 Caldwell: Whoah you look so gorgeous right now. 460 00:27:47,430 --> 00:27:48,720 Honnold: I feel so gorgeous. 461 00:27:51,970 --> 00:27:55,020 Caldwell: We got to the summit of Mermoz and there was this beautiful bivvy spot 462 00:27:55,020 --> 00:27:56,730 that someone had built with all these rocks. 463 00:27:56,730 --> 00:28:00,310 Caldwell: Check this bivvy spot out. Woooh! 464 00:28:00,310 --> 00:28:01,560 Honnold: So amazing! 465 00:28:06,650 --> 00:28:11,490 Honnold: Yeah but considering conditions. Considering like how icy the route is I mean, 466 00:28:11,490 --> 00:28:14,700 I'd say this is going pretty well. 467 00:28:14,700 --> 00:28:15,370 Caldwell: Yeah. 468 00:28:15,370 --> 00:28:21,750 Caldwell: I feel like you're a great partner because the most important thing is morale is high. 469 00:28:21,750 --> 00:28:24,840 A lot of people would be when they're intimidated they just get scared 470 00:28:24,840 --> 00:28:25,880 and they want to go down. 471 00:28:25,880 --> 00:28:27,710 Honnold: Well I am quite scared. 472 00:28:27,720 --> 00:28:31,970 And you know why? Cause of this. OK what are you doing right now. 473 00:28:31,970 --> 00:28:33,850 Caldwell: I'm building our little anchor for the night. 474 00:28:33,850 --> 00:28:36,890 Honnold: Is that because our tent is on a 45 degree slope 475 00:28:36,890 --> 00:28:38,350 hanging on the edge of a huge mountain? 476 00:28:38,350 --> 00:28:39,020 Caldwell: Yep. 477 00:28:39,020 --> 00:28:40,730 Honnold: This is gonna be so rad dude. 478 00:28:40,730 --> 00:28:42,440 This is the kind of thing I see in Alpinist Magazine 479 00:28:42,440 --> 00:28:44,230 except we're actually doing it. 480 00:28:44,480 --> 00:28:47,730 Honnold: Mermoz is right there and it took us 3 hours to get over here. 481 00:28:47,740 --> 00:28:50,360 Fuck! Alpinism is retarded. 482 00:28:50,570 --> 00:28:53,740 Caldwell: And North Pillar doesn't look that close from here really. 483 00:28:53,740 --> 00:28:57,660 Honnold: And then 3000 feet of rock climbing and then the summit of Fitz. 484 00:28:57,660 --> 00:28:59,750 So we definitely were trying to go as light as possible. 485 00:28:59,750 --> 00:29:01,790 Caldwell: We only had 1 sleeping bag. 486 00:29:01,790 --> 00:29:03,960 Honnold: Like shared the bag and stayed warm or whatever. 487 00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:05,960 Caldwell: So psyched Alex. 488 00:29:05,960 --> 00:29:07,460 Honnold: I'm so fired up. 489 00:29:07,460 --> 00:29:11,880 Caldwell: But no sleeping pads. We just kind of laid out our ropes and packs and stuff to sleep on. 490 00:29:11,880 --> 00:29:14,640 Honnold: You know I was using my shoes and my chalk bag as my pillow. 491 00:29:14,640 --> 00:29:17,600 I mean we only slept like 3 hours so it doesn't really matter. 492 00:29:17,600 --> 00:29:21,190 You just get into the bag and collapse like a corpse, you know? 493 00:29:26,730 --> 00:29:30,360 Caldwell: About midday the next day we got to the base of the North Pillar. 494 00:29:30,360 --> 00:29:33,200 It's like 2500 foot wall. 495 00:29:37,910 --> 00:29:41,250 Caldwell: It's a daunting part of the climb. You look up and it just looks giant. 496 00:29:41,250 --> 00:29:43,250 There's all this rime falling down. 497 00:29:43,250 --> 00:29:45,920 Honnold: Oh, look at that ice coming down. Whoah. 498 00:29:45,920 --> 00:29:50,510 Caldwell: Alex decided he was gonna climb the first 12 pitches or something in one block. 499 00:29:50,510 --> 00:29:51,670 Caldwell: That sounds reasonable. 500 00:29:51,670 --> 00:29:53,760 Honnold: Yeah that seems reasonable huh? Ok. 501 00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:54,550 Caldwell: Alright. 502 00:29:54,550 --> 00:29:54,970 Honnold: Here we go. 503 00:29:54,970 --> 00:29:56,300 Caldwell: Blast off. 504 00:29:56,300 --> 00:30:00,100 Honnold: Note for the record we're both wearing our tennies with heavy loads. 505 00:30:00,100 --> 00:30:00,970 Let's see how this goes. 506 00:30:00,980 --> 00:30:02,520 Caldwell: We do have our climbing shoes clipped to us. 507 00:30:02,520 --> 00:30:05,650 Which I've actually only used for like 3 pitches on this whole thing. 508 00:30:28,130 --> 00:30:30,090 Honnold: Yes, that is a horrible rime mushroom. 509 00:30:30,090 --> 00:30:32,800 Like daggers of ice hanging off all over everything. 510 00:30:32,800 --> 00:30:36,890 Caldwell: You mantle on the top of North Pillar and you're in full-on alpine land. 511 00:30:36,890 --> 00:30:39,430 There's just rime coating everything. 512 00:30:39,430 --> 00:30:41,350 Honnold: Ok so what did we just do Tommy? 513 00:30:41,350 --> 00:30:44,100 Caldwell: We just climbed the North Pillar which was icy and wet. 514 00:30:44,100 --> 00:30:47,980 We did it in 3 pitches. Which is pretty crazy. 515 00:30:47,980 --> 00:30:49,230 Honnold: Cause we're bosses. 516 00:30:49,230 --> 00:30:52,940 Caldwell: Alex did like a 2000 foot pitch. I did like a 500 foot pitch. 517 00:30:52,940 --> 00:30:57,240 And then you did like another thousand foot pitch. 518 00:30:57,450 --> 00:31:00,870 Honnold: And now we're pooped and we're covered in snow. 519 00:31:01,410 --> 00:31:03,200 Caldwell: And we're gonna climb that... 520 00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:06,040 Honnold: Oh wow, dude, check out the frickin uh, the shadow! 521 00:31:06,040 --> 00:31:09,790 Can you see, that's, we're on top of the North Pillar, we're about to climb to actual summit. 522 00:31:09,790 --> 00:31:11,090 That is cool. 523 00:31:12,010 --> 00:31:15,880 Caldwell: The upper headwall of Fitz Roy just looked horrible. 524 00:31:15,880 --> 00:31:18,680 Honnold: Oh just look at this intimidating ice thing. Can you see? 525 00:31:18,680 --> 00:31:23,390 Ok so that's our route. It's as shitty as it looks. 526 00:31:23,390 --> 00:31:27,190 Caldwell: Super scary, really wet, there's like a waterfall coming down. 527 00:31:27,190 --> 00:31:29,230 There's ice falling all over the place. 528 00:31:29,230 --> 00:31:33,400 I looked up there and I was like, I think we're done, I think we've gotta turn around right now. 529 00:31:33,400 --> 00:31:36,860 And Alex was like,what are you talking about dude, you've got this. 530 00:31:36,860 --> 00:31:40,200 Honnold: It did look like an abomination. But it was Tommy's lead. 531 00:31:40,700 --> 00:31:42,410 Caldwell: Or maybe you can keep these. 532 00:31:42,410 --> 00:31:44,750 Honnold: So I was like ah, Tommy you know, I'm sure you'll be great, 533 00:31:44,750 --> 00:31:47,830 just go over there and try your best! 534 00:31:47,830 --> 00:31:50,960 Honnold: Tommy's about to aid it through the night because he's a total boss. 535 00:31:51,290 --> 00:31:54,460 Caldwell: Alex really has no idea what he's talking about. 536 00:31:54,460 --> 00:31:57,800 He doesn't know how to walk on snow, he brought the wrong crampons, 537 00:31:57,800 --> 00:32:01,850 he's looking up this face that's covered in ice and telling me that it's no big deal. 538 00:32:01,850 --> 00:32:04,430 He's definitely not offering to lead it though. 539 00:32:04,430 --> 00:32:07,390 Caldwell: Yeah I'm a little intimidated at the moment honestly. 540 00:32:07,390 --> 00:32:11,560 Honnold: Yeah don't worry about it though you're a total boss. This is gonna be so cash for you. 541 00:32:11,560 --> 00:32:12,610 This is our gong show. 542 00:32:12,610 --> 00:32:15,070 Caldwell: To the death. Don't tell me wife I said that. 543 00:32:15,070 --> 00:32:18,820 Honnold: I'll tell her that you were all about safety. 544 00:32:18,820 --> 00:32:22,780 That the only thing that intimidated you about this climb was that you were worried that it would be too safe. 545 00:32:22,780 --> 00:32:23,990 Caldwell: Yeah. 546 00:32:23,990 --> 00:32:25,660 Honnold: There sure is a lot of snow. 547 00:32:25,660 --> 00:32:27,200 Caldwell: Yes there is. 548 00:32:27,210 --> 00:32:28,330 Honnold: Ok. 549 00:32:28,330 --> 00:32:30,290 Caldwell: Lot of snow. 550 00:32:31,040 --> 00:32:34,340 Caldwell: Right as the sun was going down, we rappelled down to the notch 551 00:32:34,340 --> 00:32:37,010 between the North Pillar itself 552 00:32:37,010 --> 00:32:39,930 and then the final summit of Fitz Roy. 553 00:32:47,730 --> 00:32:50,690 And I really didn't have any idea how we were gonna climb it. 554 00:32:50,690 --> 00:32:53,690 I didn't have any experience climbing that kind of terrain. 555 00:32:55,270 --> 00:32:59,070 We knew this would be the crux of the whole traverse. 556 00:32:59,070 --> 00:33:03,950 So we put on all of our rain gear and just ventured into this waterfall. 557 00:33:05,160 --> 00:33:07,830 Honnold: Tommy was just like aid climbing up a stream. 558 00:33:07,830 --> 00:33:11,040 Caldwell: I got saturated down to my underwear. 559 00:33:11,040 --> 00:33:14,920 Once we got that wet I was like, well we really have to keep going now. 560 00:33:14,920 --> 00:33:19,420 My rope was frozen solid, all my cams wouldn't work anymore. 561 00:33:19,420 --> 00:33:21,550 Honnold: I was like, how is he not hypothermic. 562 00:33:21,550 --> 00:33:27,720 Caldwell: It was full survival mode. I was chopping rime off the wall and it was hitting Alex. 563 00:33:27,720 --> 00:33:31,640 Caldwell: In that moment on the top of Fitz Roy, 564 00:33:31,640 --> 00:33:35,440 I pushed myself over the risk line that I am willing to accept. 565 00:33:37,730 --> 00:33:45,660 I would like envision Fitz and Becca at home and I was just like, what are we doing up here? 566 00:33:45,660 --> 00:33:49,950 But then Alex was like, yeah dude! Just keep going! 567 00:33:50,750 --> 00:33:53,880 Honnold: I was like, thank goodness it's Tommy up there and not me. 568 00:33:55,750 --> 00:33:59,050 Caldwell: For the next 6 hours we just quested up. 569 00:33:59,050 --> 00:34:01,260 Honnold: Tommy would be leading with the 1 ice tool, 570 00:34:01,260 --> 00:34:03,220 which would leave me with just my hands, 571 00:34:03,220 --> 00:34:05,890 so I would be using my one finger in the hole from the ice tool, 572 00:34:05,890 --> 00:34:10,100 or I'd just be like punching my fist into the snow, or sometimes just clawing at it. 573 00:34:10,100 --> 00:34:13,600 And I was like gripped out of my mind. 574 00:34:17,440 --> 00:34:19,780 Caldwell: When we got onto the upper slopes of Fitz Roy, 575 00:34:19,780 --> 00:34:23,280 and it was so surreal being at the top of Fitz Roy, 576 00:34:23,280 --> 00:34:25,700 just felt like you're in the middle of the stars. 577 00:34:25,700 --> 00:34:34,250 And having been through this really intense experience, it was pretty magical for me. 578 00:34:39,630 --> 00:34:43,590 Honnold: It's 3 in the morning. We're eating our pasta dinner on 579 00:34:43,590 --> 00:34:48,180 almost on top of Fitz Roy, in our little tent, on a snowfield. 580 00:34:48,180 --> 00:34:52,060 Tommy just led an epic thousand foot block to the summit. 581 00:34:52,060 --> 00:34:56,400 Caldwell: Yeah. Horrible, horrible conditions. I got soaking wet. 582 00:34:56,400 --> 00:35:00,610 Honnold: Yeah. But then managed to dry in 30 degree temps, which I don't even understand. 583 00:35:00,610 --> 00:35:01,610 Caldwell: Yeah. It's just because I'm a heater. 584 00:35:01,610 --> 00:35:04,490 Honnold: Had I led that, I definitely would have perished by pitch 3. 585 00:35:04,490 --> 00:35:08,740 I would have just been like, oooh, let's rap. 586 00:35:08,740 --> 00:35:12,740 Caldwell: Yep. Alex had to ask me how to put on crampons at the top of Fitz Roy. 587 00:35:12,750 --> 00:35:14,960 That was a good moment. 588 00:35:14,960 --> 00:35:18,420 Honnold: It was more just verifying that they were on right. 589 00:35:19,040 --> 00:35:22,500 Caldwell: It was a, uh, it was a hardcore day, all in all. 590 00:35:22,510 --> 00:35:26,170 Honnold: Pretty much just like one of my hardest days out, you know? 591 00:35:26,180 --> 00:35:30,010 In terms of like being way outside my comfort zone. 592 00:35:30,010 --> 00:35:30,640 Caldwell: Yeah. 593 00:35:30,640 --> 00:35:34,810 Honnold: And just like doing this heinous, oh my god, so snowy. 594 00:35:34,810 --> 00:35:39,350 And then to like simul the last 500 feet with no ice tool 595 00:35:39,360 --> 00:35:41,980 and like strap-on crampons that don't really, 596 00:35:41,980 --> 00:35:44,650 I don't think they work that well, you know? 597 00:35:44,650 --> 00:35:46,780 Caldwell: They're better than no crampons. 598 00:35:46,780 --> 00:35:49,530 Honnold: Well, yeah, for sure. If I had no crampons, that would've been a dealbreaker. 599 00:35:49,530 --> 00:35:51,780 Caldwell: This is a day we will not soon forget. 600 00:35:51,780 --> 00:35:57,290 Honnold: Mmm. Yeah. Hopefully tomorrow is not like it. 601 00:35:57,290 --> 00:35:58,500 Caldwell: Yeah. 602 00:36:03,710 --> 00:36:08,260 Caldwell: We woke up after cuddling in our sleeping bag for a few hours, 603 00:36:08,260 --> 00:36:09,840 the nights were never that good. 604 00:36:09,840 --> 00:36:13,600 Two dudes in one sleeping bag was actually not very comfortable at all. 605 00:36:14,930 --> 00:36:17,930 Caldwell: Alex's armpits are sweating which is nice cause we shivered, 606 00:36:17,940 --> 00:36:19,850 we shivered all night long. 607 00:36:19,850 --> 00:36:25,400 Caldwell: I was hurtin' pretty bad after that whole Fitz Roy experience. 608 00:36:25,400 --> 00:36:27,190 My fingers are pretty bad. 609 00:36:27,200 --> 00:36:32,660 The skin split away from the underside of the nails on every single finger. 610 00:36:32,660 --> 00:36:36,330 But we were on the top of Fitz Roy, which is one of the most awesome places ever. 611 00:36:36,330 --> 00:36:38,870 Caldwell: Pretty epic camp setup, huh? 612 00:36:40,250 --> 00:36:42,580 Honnold: Yep. Can't choose a more scenic place. 613 00:36:42,590 --> 00:36:44,090 Caldwell: Kind of beautiful. 614 00:36:44,090 --> 00:36:47,260 Caldwell: Even though we're sitting on the high point of the whole traverse, 615 00:36:47,260 --> 00:36:50,340 after Fitz Roy was the real endurance test. 616 00:36:50,340 --> 00:36:51,930 Honnold: Oh my god, my legs! 617 00:36:51,930 --> 00:36:57,600 Caldwell: We still had a labyrinth of unknown terrain that had never been climbed. 618 00:36:57,600 --> 00:37:05,190 To go for another 3 days was gonna bring us to a whole new level, and we knew that. 619 00:37:07,940 --> 00:37:11,780 Honnold: We rappelled off the back side of Fitz Roy and then we traversed over to Poincenot. 620 00:37:11,950 --> 00:37:14,070 Caldwell: And we were pretty hammered phsyically. 621 00:37:14,080 --> 00:37:16,240 Honnold: Tommy's fingers hurt too much to climb. 622 00:37:16,240 --> 00:37:19,710 Caldwell: Luckily Alex was in a little bit better shape so he took over. 623 00:37:21,620 --> 00:37:24,540 Alex is a beast, there's no doubt about it. 624 00:37:24,540 --> 00:37:28,380 Questing up 5.11 in gloves and a giant pack with approach shoes on, 625 00:37:28,380 --> 00:37:31,840 most people are gonna pretty intimidated by that, he doesn't even think twice. 626 00:37:34,510 --> 00:37:37,390 Honnold: At the base of Poincenot, Tommy handed me the rope and the rack and was like, 627 00:37:37,390 --> 00:37:38,730 get us to the top. 628 00:37:39,850 --> 00:37:42,980 So I led like a 1500 foot wall in a couple hours. 629 00:37:42,980 --> 00:37:47,480 Caldwell: As long as one person can float the team at different points, it works out. 630 00:37:48,150 --> 00:37:51,570 We got to the top of Poincenot right as the sun was going down. 631 00:37:51,900 --> 00:37:54,570 Honnold: We are the summit of Poincenot. 632 00:37:54,570 --> 00:37:55,120 Caldwell: Good work! 633 00:37:55,120 --> 00:37:59,620 Caldwell: Found a bivvy spot and slept right on top of Poincenot. 634 00:37:59,620 --> 00:38:03,170 Honnold: From there on out, everything started to getting like a little more ghetto. 635 00:38:04,920 --> 00:38:09,710 Caldwell: You scramble down for a thousand feet and then you rap another 2000 feet. 636 00:38:09,710 --> 00:38:13,130 There's just loose rock everywhere. Our rope got stuck. 637 00:38:13,130 --> 00:38:15,220 We had to cut the rope in half. 638 00:38:15,220 --> 00:38:18,180 We did like 40 rappels or something like that. 639 00:38:18,470 --> 00:38:21,430 Honnold: None of this stuff is like, AMGA-certified you know? 640 00:38:22,310 --> 00:38:25,350 Honnold: Here's Poincenot, big wall that we rappelled, 641 00:38:25,360 --> 00:38:27,020 and here we are climbing Rafael. 642 00:38:28,650 --> 00:38:32,280 Honnold: We were very tired. Very, very tired. 643 00:38:32,280 --> 00:38:33,950 And all of our equipment was destroyed. 644 00:38:33,950 --> 00:38:35,910 Caldwell: Here are my gross toes. 645 00:38:35,910 --> 00:38:36,620 Honnold: Oh my gosh. 646 00:38:36,620 --> 00:38:37,570 Caldwell: Rawr! 647 00:38:37,580 --> 00:38:40,160 Caldwell: It was definitely a test in pain tolerance. 648 00:38:42,160 --> 00:38:43,790 Honnold: My hands just feel achy. 649 00:38:43,790 --> 00:38:49,130 Caldwell: Yeah. Yeah my hands, my hands look pretty good actually but.... 650 00:38:49,130 --> 00:38:51,210 Honnold: They don't really look that good, they look real red. 651 00:38:51,210 --> 00:38:52,960 Caldwell: I mean I've had gloves on all day and it's made them look better. 652 00:38:52,970 --> 00:38:57,180 Honnold: Even your nub looks like it's gonna split. Oh my god your fingernails look horrible! 653 00:38:57,180 --> 00:39:00,560 Caldwell: That's what, that's why they hurt so bad! Yes, look at my fingernails. 654 00:39:00,560 --> 00:39:03,020 Honnold: You look like a hobbit or something. 655 00:39:03,020 --> 00:39:06,190 Filthy, filthy hobbit. 656 00:39:06,190 --> 00:39:09,400 I just want to get into these apricots. 657 00:39:09,400 --> 00:39:11,780 I wish we had like 2 gallons of lemonade right here. 658 00:39:11,780 --> 00:39:16,570 Caldwell: Everything that we brought on this climb is now totally trashed. 659 00:39:16,570 --> 00:39:19,570 So let's inventory. Our tent is full of holes. 660 00:39:19,580 --> 00:39:21,910 I dropped one of my climbing shoes. 661 00:39:21,910 --> 00:39:26,790 My sunglasses are totally broken. My shoes are falling apart, 662 00:39:26,790 --> 00:39:29,460 and these were new at the beginning of this trip. 663 00:39:29,460 --> 00:39:30,420 Honnold: I know, we hadn't even worn them before. 664 00:39:30,420 --> 00:39:34,590 Caldwell: Look at my pants, they're about to turn into cutoffs. 665 00:39:34,590 --> 00:39:38,550 Our sleeping bag we burnt a big hole in it. 666 00:39:39,760 --> 00:39:43,100 Honnold: My spirits are broken too I think. I'm pretty sure. 667 00:39:50,230 --> 00:39:53,610 Honnold: This whole traverse is one of the craziest experiences that I've had climbing. 668 00:39:55,900 --> 00:39:58,990 You know I was so far outside my comfort zone for so much of it. 669 00:40:01,490 --> 00:40:03,910 Honnold: Lose my crampons. 670 00:40:03,950 --> 00:40:08,580 Honnold: It was cold and it was wet and, you know, physically I was completely haggard. 671 00:40:09,250 --> 00:40:11,250 Honnold: I'm so thirsty. 672 00:40:11,250 --> 00:40:14,130 Honnold: I was so fatigued, my vision was blurring in and out, 673 00:40:14,130 --> 00:40:15,840 like I thought I was having a stroke or something. 674 00:40:18,680 --> 00:40:20,140 Honnold: Now my mouth's really cold. 675 00:40:22,970 --> 00:40:27,180 Caldwell: Alex drastically underestimated every aspect of this climb. 676 00:40:27,190 --> 00:40:30,940 To see him really challenged was kind of cool for me in a way. 677 00:40:30,940 --> 00:40:34,690 I was like, wow there's a crack there in the invincible man. 678 00:40:36,570 --> 00:40:38,150 Honnold: Oh god! Oh! 679 00:40:39,950 --> 00:40:44,580 Caldwell: But, I really couldn't imagine having a better partner, doing it with anybody else. 680 00:40:44,580 --> 00:40:47,000 You have to keep morale high when you're suffering, 681 00:40:47,000 --> 00:40:51,040 and I think both of us just come by that pretty honestly. 682 00:40:52,170 --> 00:40:56,170 Caldwell: Alex thinks that uh, stirring our polenta with my broken sunglasses is gross, 683 00:40:56,170 --> 00:41:03,010 but I don't know, I feel like licking frozen condensation off the inside of our tent is even grosser. 684 00:41:04,560 --> 00:41:06,470 Honnold: Mmm. My lips hurt so bad. 685 00:41:09,190 --> 00:41:10,770 Honnold: This is actually kind of an artistic shot. 686 00:41:10,770 --> 00:41:17,690 You've got your bloody mitt with a taped up tip, eating polenta with sunglasses! 687 00:41:17,690 --> 00:41:22,570 It was perfectly just tilt the sunglasses and you're like dude this is pretty ghetto. 688 00:41:28,710 --> 00:41:30,330 Caldwell: The next morning we woke up. 689 00:41:30,330 --> 00:41:33,880 Caldwell: Morning of number 5. Feeling spry. 690 00:41:33,880 --> 00:41:35,960 Caldwell: You could see the weather window was closing. 691 00:41:35,960 --> 00:41:38,300 Caldwell: There's Cerro Torre in the clouds, it's a bit blustery. 692 00:41:38,300 --> 00:41:40,720 Caldwell: Wind had picked up, feels like things are changing, 693 00:41:40,720 --> 00:41:44,470 but luckily all we have to do is climb De L's. 694 00:41:44,470 --> 00:41:48,810 Caldwell: After 4 days of intense climbing and pretty high stress, 695 00:41:48,810 --> 00:41:53,310 it was kind of surreal to be so near the end of the whole traverse. 696 00:41:53,600 --> 00:41:57,480 Caldwell: Can't believe we're almost done. What an epic journey. 697 00:41:57,480 --> 00:42:01,740 Caldwell: We just cruised up De L's, getting to the top and being done with the thing, 698 00:42:01,740 --> 00:42:05,320 I was kind of blown away actually, I couldn't believe that we had pulled it off. 699 00:42:05,320 --> 00:42:09,120 Caldwell: We're psyched! We finished it! Woo, on the summit!! 700 00:42:09,120 --> 00:42:14,250 Yeah! Alex is never excited, what the hell, we just traversed the whole mountain range. 701 00:42:14,250 --> 00:42:16,000 Caldwell: At least, I was psyched. 702 00:42:16,000 --> 00:42:22,800 Owwwwoooo! Alex. Me. Wooooo! 703 00:42:22,800 --> 00:42:27,390 Caldwell: It was one of the more intense adventures of my life. 704 00:42:27,390 --> 00:42:31,180 And there's a lot of times when I thought we were in way over our heads. 705 00:42:31,180 --> 00:42:34,480 But that's what makes for really rich experiences. 706 00:42:35,060 --> 00:42:39,650 Cordes: What those guys did, it, it's incredible. It's amazing. 707 00:42:39,820 --> 00:42:41,190 Chouinard: I mean it just knocks me out. 708 00:42:41,190 --> 00:42:43,900 Garibotti: Their level of skill is very, very, very inspiring. 709 00:42:43,910 --> 00:42:49,080 Haley: This is Alex's first climb ever in Patagonia, which is pretty frickin' rad. 710 00:42:49,830 --> 00:42:53,710 Cordes: I mean, it's a lifetime's worth of climbing in one outing. 711 00:42:53,710 --> 00:42:58,000 Garibotti: It's impossible not to be really psyched and to celebrate what they did. 712 00:43:00,510 --> 00:43:04,930 Caldwell: You're looking good, man. You're looking road-hard. 713 00:43:04,930 --> 00:43:07,720 Honnold: Yeah, I think I feel ridden hard. Yeah. 714 00:43:09,810 --> 00:43:15,140 Caldwell: This is how I look. In the mind I feel very happy though. 715 00:43:16,650 --> 00:43:18,440 Honnold: It was super satisfying to come down here and 716 00:43:18,440 --> 00:43:21,190 get lucky with the weather like that and just get to climb everything. 717 00:43:21,190 --> 00:43:24,860 But for me it wasn't so much about the objective or the summits that we climbed, 718 00:43:24,860 --> 00:43:26,700 it was about having an adventure with Tommy. 719 00:43:26,700 --> 00:43:29,240 Honnold: You're dressed like Peter Pan right now. 720 00:43:29,240 --> 00:43:32,740 Caldwell: Oh they smell really, really bad, actually. 721 00:43:32,750 --> 00:43:36,540 Honnold: You're a model. I'm so pooped. I don't even have you in frame. 722 00:43:36,540 --> 00:43:40,590 I can't even hold this thing. Oh my gosh I gotta take a nap. 723 00:43:41,090 --> 00:43:42,880 Honnold: Doing the Fitz Traverse here has sort of like 724 00:43:42,880 --> 00:43:45,170 opened my eyes to the potential of alpine climbing. 725 00:43:45,170 --> 00:43:49,590 Maybe in like a year I can motivate to do something like this again. 726 00:43:49,600 --> 00:43:55,060 But I'm definitely never gonna be like an alpinist who just pursues trips like this all the time. 727 00:43:57,940 --> 00:44:01,570 You know it's just like, so tiring. 728 00:44:03,860 --> 00:44:05,740 Caldwell: We ended up being out for almost a week. 729 00:44:05,740 --> 00:44:10,120 Fitz and Becca had already flown home in the meantime back to Colorado, 730 00:44:10,120 --> 00:44:13,870 so, the whole hike out I think I was walking extra fast because I knew she was 731 00:44:13,870 --> 00:44:15,710 probably sitting at home worrying about me. 732 00:44:17,540 --> 00:44:19,540 We got back into town super haggard. 733 00:44:21,500 --> 00:44:24,550 I was able to call her and tell her that we'd done it. 734 00:44:26,800 --> 00:44:29,260 When I think about what we did, this was huge. 735 00:44:29,260 --> 00:44:31,510 This was a moment that I will never forget. 736 00:44:32,310 --> 00:44:36,980 But we were definitely being a bit more risky than I would love to be. 737 00:44:36,980 --> 00:44:42,230 Especially being a new dad, it makes me wonder if this kind of climbing is even worth it. 738 00:44:44,940 --> 00:44:48,820 Caldwell: Dear Fitz, sitting safely now in El Chalten, 739 00:44:48,820 --> 00:44:52,330 pondering the merit of mountain climbing now that I'm a father, 740 00:44:55,580 --> 00:44:57,410 Risk is selfish. 741 00:44:57,410 --> 00:45:01,790 The biggest tragedy I can imagine is not being there to see you take your first steps. 742 00:45:03,290 --> 00:45:06,760 But for me, climbing makes everything else fit into place. 743 00:45:06,760 --> 00:45:10,380 It's what lights the fire, makes me a dreamer. 744 00:45:10,390 --> 00:45:14,350 The need to battle is built into the fabric of who we are. 745 00:45:14,350 --> 00:45:15,810 I find my battle on the mountain. 746 00:45:15,810 --> 00:45:20,140 It breathes life into me despite the risk and fear that reside there. 747 00:45:20,140 --> 00:45:25,520 If I can show you one thing, I hope it will be to pursue your own chosen struggle 748 00:45:25,530 --> 00:45:33,530 wherever you may find it, with vigor, optimism, and love. I love you. Daddy. 749 00:46:29,960 --> 00:46:32,080 Crow caws 750 00:46:36,840 --> 00:46:39,260 Crow caws 751 00:47:23,930 --> 00:47:29,310 (parachute opening) 752 00:47:53,370 --> 00:47:56,290 Dean Potter: As a child, I had always been scattered, 753 00:47:57,460 --> 00:48:01,340 and then as soon as I touched the rock I found focus. 754 00:48:06,010 --> 00:48:10,430 Really the first place I started to fit in was Yosemite. 755 00:48:13,560 --> 00:48:17,480 This strange community lived this out-there lifestyle. 756 00:48:17,480 --> 00:48:20,020 (HOWL!) 757 00:48:29,910 --> 00:48:33,250 As with most young climbers, I just wanted to prove myself. 758 00:48:34,290 --> 00:48:36,330 To blow doors on what's been done. 759 00:48:48,890 --> 00:48:55,140 Free soloing - that was the ultimate. Being out there alone with no protection. 760 00:48:57,190 --> 00:49:00,860 Somehow its like the fear activates the heightened state. 761 00:49:09,570 --> 00:49:13,240 WOOOO!! 762 00:49:16,410 --> 00:49:19,920 With everything I'm doing, I'm trying to become more free. 763 00:49:23,750 --> 00:49:27,880 Freedom of self-expression is where huge breakthroughs happen. 764 00:49:40,270 --> 00:49:45,940 Wanting to be more like the birds and fly - that ultimate expression of freedom. 765 00:49:45,940 --> 00:49:47,610 Baboom! 766 00:49:48,860 --> 00:49:50,700 Park Ranger (On Radio): We got a base jumper. El Cap Meadow. 767 00:49:52,830 --> 00:49:59,910 Potter: It seems like our country now is so strapped down with rules, it's ridiculous. 768 00:49:59,920 --> 00:50:00,750 Park Ranger Hi, how are ya? 769 00:50:00,750 --> 00:50:02,130 Potter: Hi, how are you doing? 770 00:50:02,130 --> 00:50:02,960 Park Ranger: Turn off the camera. 771 00:50:02,960 --> 00:50:06,670 Potter: No thank you. How come you're pulling me over? I think you're harassing me. 772 00:50:06,670 --> 00:50:09,470 You know, sometimes I can be really intense. 773 00:50:09,470 --> 00:50:11,590 Filmer: Do you guys think Hans is going to be psyched to come back? 774 00:50:11,590 --> 00:50:15,970 I don't give a fuck about Hans. Want me to break your camera dude? Go away. 775 00:50:15,970 --> 00:50:16,890 Really um, in your face. 776 00:50:16,890 --> 00:50:20,100 If you're looking at this tool, I'm not very happy. 777 00:50:20,100 --> 00:50:21,520 And maybe pushing it too far. 778 00:50:21,520 --> 00:50:23,520 The monkeys are sending dude. 779 00:50:26,230 --> 00:50:30,320 But for me, its just about doing my art and being free! 780 00:50:31,410 --> 00:50:34,620 Jumping the spire. WAAA! Jumping the spire! 781 00:50:34,620 --> 00:50:36,830 3, 2, 1, See ya! 782 00:50:48,170 --> 00:50:51,470 Oh fuck yeah. Wooo 783 00:50:51,470 --> 00:50:52,970 Nice job on that last one. 784 00:51:07,520 --> 00:51:09,110 WOOO! 785 00:51:10,070 --> 00:51:16,700 I just feel it so strongly, needing to go towards that unknown and that fear. 786 00:51:16,700 --> 00:51:18,740 My whole body is tingling. 787 00:51:18,740 --> 00:51:22,580 You've got to let go. You've got to relax. You got to flow. You got to breathe. 788 00:51:24,960 --> 00:51:28,500 And then I break through into that calm focused, 789 00:51:28,500 --> 00:51:32,220 heightened awareness that attracts me to all these things. 790 00:51:48,520 --> 00:51:50,440 (parachute opening) 791 00:52:30,130 --> 00:52:34,050 Schulte: When you're climbing something high into the no-fall zone, 792 00:52:34,050 --> 00:52:38,060 everything goes really quiet. 793 00:52:38,060 --> 00:52:44,350 You're almost moving automatically. 794 00:52:44,350 --> 00:52:51,110 It's a whole different side of me that I don't come into contact with 795 00:52:51,110 --> 00:52:53,030 unless I'm highballing. 796 00:52:53,030 --> 00:52:54,490 (LAUGHTER) 797 00:52:59,580 --> 00:53:04,580 Williams: It's this primal instinct that overcomes me. 798 00:53:04,580 --> 00:53:05,710 (SCREAM) 799 00:53:05,710 --> 00:53:08,630 It's like a mother, lifting, you know, a car off her baby. 800 00:53:08,630 --> 00:53:14,050 I cannot fall right now. 801 00:53:14,050 --> 00:53:16,390 (SCREAM) OH MY GOD! 802 00:53:18,430 --> 00:53:19,770 (SCREAMS) 803 00:53:20,680 --> 00:53:22,180 Webb: I really like highballing because 804 00:53:22,180 --> 00:53:25,480 the lines just tend to look way sicker. 805 00:53:25,480 --> 00:53:27,520 And if I've got to get scared to get to the top of it 806 00:53:27,520 --> 00:53:29,070 then so be it. 807 00:53:45,080 --> 00:53:47,330 Woods: Dealing with the height, dealing with the consequences, 808 00:53:47,330 --> 00:53:49,630 dealing with the fear. 809 00:53:49,630 --> 00:53:51,250 Emerson: My mind will just race with 810 00:53:51,250 --> 00:53:53,090 the horrible negative things that could happen. 811 00:53:58,010 --> 00:53:59,890 Webb: You kind of go into panic mode. 812 00:53:59,890 --> 00:54:02,390 Beall: Everything internally is just screaming to get down. 813 00:54:02,390 --> 00:54:02,850 (SCREAMS) 814 00:54:02,850 --> 00:54:04,230 Beall: Why am I up here again? 815 00:54:04,230 --> 00:54:07,020 OH MY GOD! (SCREAMS) 816 00:54:07,020 --> 00:54:09,190 Webb: That's when things start to get out of control. 817 00:54:09,560 --> 00:54:11,190 Hukkataival: Just a recipe for disaster. 818 00:54:13,440 --> 00:54:14,490 AHHHHH! 819 00:54:14,490 --> 00:54:17,360 (GRUNTS) 820 00:54:29,000 --> 00:54:29,790 Spotter: You okay? 821 00:54:30,920 --> 00:54:32,250 Emerson: In the last ten years 822 00:54:32,250 --> 00:54:34,630 the level of bouldering skyrocketed. 823 00:54:34,630 --> 00:54:38,550 Kehl: V10 was huge and now it’s V15, V16. 824 00:54:38,550 --> 00:54:40,260 Emerson: You start to reach a limit as to 825 00:54:40,260 --> 00:54:42,300 how small the hold could actually be. 826 00:54:42,310 --> 00:54:44,390 So the best guys are looking for ways 827 00:54:44,390 --> 00:54:45,930 to push things in a different direction, 828 00:54:45,930 --> 00:54:46,980 and they're looking up. 829 00:54:46,980 --> 00:54:49,850 Traversi: Trying to push the limit on much higher boulders. 830 00:54:49,860 --> 00:54:51,190 Beall: Huge proud objectives. 831 00:54:51,190 --> 00:54:52,520 Awe-inspiring lines. 832 00:54:52,860 --> 00:54:54,190 Williams: These guys have all proven 833 00:54:54,190 --> 00:54:56,650 that they can climb hard stuff two feet off the ground. 834 00:54:56,650 --> 00:55:00,030 But who can climb those same moves thirty feet off the ground? 835 00:55:00,740 --> 00:55:02,370 Traversi: Who is willing to push themselves the furthest? 836 00:55:02,700 --> 00:55:06,000 Williams: That's the next frontier, and it's a terrifying frontier. 837 00:55:06,000 --> 00:55:09,080 Woods: All of my fear is compounded into one boulder. 838 00:55:09,080 --> 00:55:10,500 Woods: I fucking puss'd out. 839 00:55:15,260 --> 00:55:17,970 Traversi: Highball bouldering might be the hot new thing nowadays 840 00:55:17,970 --> 00:55:19,720 but its been around for quite a while. 841 00:55:19,720 --> 00:55:22,640 Going back to John Gill, 842 00:55:22,640 --> 00:55:25,310 I don't even know how long ago that was. 843 00:55:26,220 --> 00:55:29,520 Sherman: In 1961 I want to say, 844 00:55:29,520 --> 00:55:32,360 John Gill, father of American bouldering, 845 00:55:32,360 --> 00:55:34,980 he did this line up in the South Dakota Needles. 846 00:55:34,980 --> 00:55:36,860 Sherman: It was tall. 847 00:55:36,860 --> 00:55:38,070 37 feet. 848 00:55:38,070 --> 00:55:39,740 It turned out to be so hard, 849 00:55:39,740 --> 00:55:42,530 it went decades before anybody repeated it. 850 00:55:42,530 --> 00:55:44,950 I did possibly the third or fourth repeat. 851 00:55:44,950 --> 00:55:47,580 You know, you're going to get really hurt if you fall. 852 00:55:47,580 --> 00:55:50,500 Chuck, you've fallen off of it, how far is that? 853 00:55:50,500 --> 00:55:52,580 Fryberger: Yeah I mean it's a pretty bad memory. 854 00:55:52,580 --> 00:55:54,000 I try not to think about it too much. 855 00:55:54,000 --> 00:55:56,920 You know, I'm the guy that fell off the Thimble. 856 00:55:56,920 --> 00:55:58,670 That's my 15 minutes of fame. 857 00:55:58,670 --> 00:56:02,800 John Sherman brought me to the Thimble, talked me into it. 858 00:56:02,800 --> 00:56:04,890 Sherman: If you fall, chances are you're going to live. 859 00:56:04,890 --> 00:56:06,810 You might not climb again. 860 00:56:06,810 --> 00:56:09,480 Fryberger: John Gill did this thing wearing hiking boots. 861 00:56:09,480 --> 00:56:11,060 I'm thinking to myself, 862 00:56:11,060 --> 00:56:14,440 I'm a stud, I'm fit, let's get it on. 863 00:56:14,440 --> 00:56:18,530 Sherman: Watching him get shut down on it was fricking cool. 864 00:56:23,280 --> 00:56:24,910 (LAUGHTER) 865 00:56:24,910 --> 00:56:27,080 Fryberger: Eating my knee pretty hard right there. 866 00:56:27,080 --> 00:56:31,080 Whiplash, dislocated plates in my vertebrae. 867 00:56:31,080 --> 00:56:36,460 I had a concussion from where my temple impacted my knee. 868 00:56:36,460 --> 00:56:38,500 One of the lessons that was most clear to me 869 00:56:38,510 --> 00:56:42,680 is that the old guys were really badass. 870 00:56:45,010 --> 00:56:46,600 Sherman: We used to call it high bouldering. 871 00:56:46,600 --> 00:56:48,260 Am I good enough to do this? 872 00:56:48,270 --> 00:56:50,430 And if I'm not I'm going to the hospital. 873 00:56:50,430 --> 00:56:51,980 Before we had pads, 874 00:56:51,980 --> 00:56:54,690 we would put a sweater over a rock. 875 00:56:54,690 --> 00:56:56,190 Yeah, that was our padding. 876 00:56:56,190 --> 00:56:59,570 Yeah, I'm kind of beat up from jumping off all those boulders. 877 00:56:59,570 --> 00:57:01,440 I've got two artificial hips now. 878 00:57:01,450 --> 00:57:05,200 The popularity of bouldering higher and higher 879 00:57:05,200 --> 00:57:07,910 came with this introduction of pads. 880 00:57:07,910 --> 00:57:09,790 Emerson: Pads started getting bigger and bigger. 881 00:57:09,790 --> 00:57:12,660 Schulte: Now that we have all these monstrous pads, 882 00:57:12,660 --> 00:57:15,580 you can go as high as you want to really. 883 00:57:16,000 --> 00:57:16,960 (GRUNTS) 884 00:57:17,670 --> 00:57:18,960 Sherman: I'm just going to say, 885 00:57:18,960 --> 00:57:21,630 yeah we were idiots for not having pads 886 00:57:21,630 --> 00:57:24,010 and the current generation are pussies for using them. 887 00:57:24,010 --> 00:57:25,840 How's that? 888 00:57:27,350 --> 00:57:29,260 Emerson: Jason Kehl was one of the first people 889 00:57:29,260 --> 00:57:33,190 who got 10 pads together and did the first really big, big highballs. 890 00:57:33,520 --> 00:57:35,350 Kehl: I'm coming from a small town in Maryland 891 00:57:35,350 --> 00:57:37,690 and I wanted to recreate myself. 892 00:57:37,690 --> 00:57:39,440 Make a name for myself. 893 00:57:39,440 --> 00:57:41,780 Do things that people were impressed by. 894 00:57:41,780 --> 00:57:42,780 (SCREAM) 895 00:57:42,780 --> 00:57:44,280 Emerson: He did a problem called Evilution, 896 00:57:44,280 --> 00:57:46,780 one of the first really big, big highballs. 897 00:57:46,780 --> 00:57:47,570 50 feet. 898 00:57:47,700 --> 00:57:50,370 Schulte: That was page one for hard highball bouldering. 899 00:57:50,410 --> 00:57:52,870 Emerson: But the test piece of the 21st century highballs 900 00:57:52,870 --> 00:57:54,660 belongs to Nalle Hukkataival. 901 00:57:54,670 --> 00:57:56,870 He did a problem in South Africa called Livin Large, 902 00:57:56,880 --> 00:57:59,670 and it is gigantic. 903 00:58:01,250 --> 00:58:04,010 It's not just this really difficult sequence. 904 00:58:05,720 --> 00:58:08,390 It's this difficult sequence and this huge highball. 905 00:58:09,300 --> 00:58:09,850 (AHH!) 906 00:58:09,850 --> 00:58:11,810 Webb: Not only is it like 30 foot tall, 907 00:58:12,770 --> 00:58:15,390 the holds are really bad, the feet are really shitty, 908 00:58:15,390 --> 00:58:17,900 and one of the hardest moves is the move to the lip. 909 00:58:19,690 --> 00:58:20,860 (NOO!) 910 00:58:23,320 --> 00:58:24,940 Hukkataival: You got to be a good technical climber 911 00:58:24,950 --> 00:58:26,990 and you've got to have your head game together. 912 00:58:26,990 --> 00:58:29,200 If you lose your mental control, 913 00:58:29,200 --> 00:58:30,580 it's not going to end well. 914 00:58:34,620 --> 00:58:37,460 (AHH!) 915 00:58:37,460 --> 00:58:39,500 Webb: Livin Large was in my opinion 916 00:58:39,500 --> 00:58:41,880 one of the most impressive things ever done in climbing. 917 00:58:41,880 --> 00:58:43,590 It's insane. 918 00:58:43,590 --> 00:58:44,670 Woods: Everyone was just like 919 00:58:44,670 --> 00:58:48,260 huh, so you're climbing V15 at 30 feet. 920 00:58:48,390 --> 00:58:50,010 Emerson: I think it's been unrepeated for 6 years. 921 00:58:50,010 --> 00:58:52,180 So many strong people have tried it and haven't done it. 922 00:58:52,180 --> 00:58:55,680 Nalle, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods 923 00:58:55,680 --> 00:58:57,770 are the best boulderers in the world. 924 00:58:57,770 --> 00:58:59,600 And they're very competitive. 925 00:58:59,600 --> 00:59:03,230 Jimmy and Daniel see Nalle do this huge 30 foot highball, 926 00:59:03,230 --> 00:59:05,320 and they have to go and try it. 927 00:59:06,320 --> 00:59:09,410 Woods: I'm more used to like short roofs and stuff, 928 00:59:09,410 --> 00:59:10,320 something safe. 929 00:59:13,450 --> 00:59:16,120 Emerson: Daniel Woods is a really interesting case. 930 00:59:16,120 --> 00:59:17,960 He’s the strongest boulderer in the world. 931 00:59:17,960 --> 00:59:20,000 He does the hardest first ascents. 932 00:59:20,000 --> 00:59:21,710 Webb: Daniel has been pushing the limits 933 00:59:21,710 --> 00:59:23,750 of hardcore bouldering for years. 934 00:59:23,750 --> 00:59:25,420 (AHHH!) 935 00:59:25,420 --> 00:59:27,920 but um he doesn't necessarily have 936 00:59:27,920 --> 00:59:30,680 the best head for highballs. 937 00:59:30,680 --> 00:59:34,970 He'll do like the most heinously difficult moves you've ever seen, 938 00:59:34,970 --> 00:59:37,600 and then as soon as he gets like 20 feet off the ground 939 00:59:37,600 --> 00:59:39,520 he just like freaks out. 940 00:59:41,610 --> 00:59:43,270 Woods: I just want a fucking rope. 941 00:59:46,030 --> 00:59:48,240 Emerson: Nalle and Jimmy seem to have no fear at all, 942 00:59:48,240 --> 00:59:49,860 and you look at Daniel 943 00:59:49,860 --> 00:59:52,450 and he's like kind of scared and struggling to keep up. 944 00:59:55,490 --> 00:59:57,370 Woods: I got really scared though. 945 00:59:59,580 --> 01:00:01,830 Woods: Nalle and Jimmy, 946 01:00:01,830 --> 01:00:06,550 their vision of highball bouldering is crazy. 947 01:00:06,550 --> 01:00:07,550 (AHH!) 948 01:00:08,760 --> 01:00:09,630 Woods: You alright dude? 949 01:00:09,630 --> 01:00:11,050 Webb: I'm fine. 950 01:00:11,050 --> 01:00:13,430 Woods: Oh my god. 951 01:00:13,430 --> 01:00:16,720 Woods: One of the more scared situations I've spotted. 952 01:00:19,520 --> 01:00:24,270 Woods: Watching Jimmy do something so bold and dangerous at his max 953 01:00:27,320 --> 01:00:27,980 was inspirational. 954 01:00:29,070 --> 01:00:31,070 Webb: That has got to be the best feeling. 955 01:00:31,950 --> 01:00:33,280 Woods: I was like damn dude, 956 01:00:33,280 --> 01:00:35,370 I need to get my shit together. 957 01:00:35,370 --> 01:00:39,580 I've always been very intimidated with high things. 958 01:00:39,580 --> 01:00:42,250 I’ve always had not the best head. 959 01:00:42,250 --> 01:00:45,080 And it was something that I wanted to surpass. 960 01:00:45,090 --> 01:00:47,000 Be able to conquer it you know? 961 01:00:50,050 --> 01:00:52,340 Woods: So, I came out to Bishop 962 01:00:52,340 --> 01:00:55,350 to try to battle that psychological aspect. 963 01:00:58,720 --> 01:01:01,060 Bishop - it's the land of the highballs. 964 01:01:01,060 --> 01:01:09,980 This desert littered with giant egg-shaped boulders. 965 01:01:09,990 --> 01:01:10,440 (WOO!) 966 01:01:12,490 --> 01:01:14,910 Webb: I think Daniel is realizing to really push things, 967 01:01:14,910 --> 01:01:16,200 to really push himself, 968 01:01:16,200 --> 01:01:18,120 he has to get higher off the ground. 969 01:01:18,120 --> 01:01:21,540 (SCREAMS) 970 01:01:27,920 --> 01:01:30,050 Emerson: When you drive to Bishop, the first thing you see 971 01:01:30,050 --> 01:01:31,630 is the Grandpa Peabody Boulder. 972 01:01:31,630 --> 01:01:35,510 It's home to a number of test pieces including Jason Kehl's Evilution. 973 01:01:35,510 --> 01:01:39,180 But the next step is the bigger harder face on the right side. 974 01:01:39,180 --> 01:01:43,730 Kehl: I looked at that amazing steep face but it was definitely futuristic. 975 01:01:43,730 --> 01:01:46,350 Emerson: It's this huge obvious project that everyone in Bishop knows. 976 01:01:46,360 --> 01:01:48,060 Webb: The big one. The big proud line. 977 01:01:48,070 --> 01:01:51,320 Woods: It's the next level for hard highball bouldering. 978 01:01:51,320 --> 01:01:53,610 V15+ difficulty. 979 01:01:53,610 --> 01:01:55,320 There's a committing dyno at the end. 980 01:01:55,320 --> 01:01:59,450 And has a no fall zone with V10 climbing in it at the top. 981 01:02:00,580 --> 01:02:03,500 Like with any new climb labeled as cutting edge, 982 01:02:03,500 --> 01:02:06,870 there's this rush of climbers who go and try and do it first you know. 983 01:02:06,880 --> 01:02:08,540 Webb: Carlo Traversi was there. 984 01:02:08,540 --> 01:02:11,460 Traversi: I knew it was going to be one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. 985 01:02:11,460 --> 01:02:13,050 Webb: Daniel Beall was there, 986 01:02:13,050 --> 01:02:15,550 Emerson: a local crusher who's devoted years to this project. 987 01:02:15,550 --> 01:02:18,010 Beall: I'm 80 or 90 days into this thing at this point. 988 01:02:18,010 --> 01:02:21,060 I’m just like what do I have to do to do this fucking climb? 989 01:02:21,060 --> 01:02:23,060 Woods: It's going to be hard and scary. 990 01:02:23,060 --> 01:02:25,430 I don't know if I can do this thing. 991 01:02:25,440 --> 01:02:27,310 I could potentially hurt myself 992 01:02:27,310 --> 01:02:29,190 but it's one of the most badass lines 993 01:02:29,190 --> 01:02:32,110 and if I do want to do these taller things, 994 01:02:32,110 --> 01:02:34,700 I have to get out of my comfort zone. 995 01:02:40,410 --> 01:02:44,870 Woods: The beginning is this crazy V12 crimp ladder. 996 01:02:44,870 --> 01:02:47,120 Beall: Tiny little glassy crimps. 997 01:02:47,120 --> 01:02:48,460 Traversi: They're extremely sharp. 998 01:02:52,750 --> 01:02:54,920 Beall: You hit this little ripple, which is awful. 999 01:02:54,920 --> 01:02:57,840 Traversi: And then jump into a flake behind your head. 1000 01:03:02,060 --> 01:03:04,810 Woods: From there, the two moves to the lip of the boulder 1001 01:03:04,810 --> 01:03:07,640 are probably in the V14 range. 1002 01:03:08,850 --> 01:03:12,310 Beall: It's impractical to try to work the upper section from the ground, 1003 01:03:12,320 --> 01:03:16,610 so we ended up bring out a ladder to work on the jump move to the lip. 1004 01:03:19,990 --> 01:03:23,660 You're 20 feet off the ground at this point. You have to do a full commitment jump out the roof. 1005 01:03:23,950 --> 01:03:26,790 Woods: You set your foot up and then you look all the way back, 1006 01:03:26,790 --> 01:03:29,460 and you're like oh my god, I'm scared shitless. 1007 01:03:31,380 --> 01:03:32,840 Traversi: If you can get to the lip, 1008 01:03:32,840 --> 01:03:36,670 you're staring at a giant headwall of the top of a 50 foot boulder. 1009 01:03:36,670 --> 01:03:39,340 Beall: You still have a V10 technical section after that. 1010 01:03:39,340 --> 01:03:41,840 If you were to fall off it could go really badly. 1011 01:03:41,850 --> 01:03:44,560 Webb: It's going to be a nail-biter to watch people go for that. 1012 01:03:45,560 --> 01:03:46,930 Woods: We're taking heat after heat, 1013 01:03:46,930 --> 01:03:48,430 burns after burns, 1014 01:03:48,440 --> 01:03:50,310 and throwing ourselves at this thing. 1015 01:03:50,310 --> 01:03:51,850 Beall: You know, a competitive environment. 1016 01:03:51,860 --> 01:03:54,780 Traversi: Try and see who's willing to push themselves the furthest. 1017 01:03:59,450 --> 01:04:04,530 Woods: Whoever does it first will be entering a new zone in highball bouldering. 1018 01:04:06,450 --> 01:04:08,620 (SCREAMS) 1019 01:04:12,790 --> 01:04:15,710 Sherman: That is what drives the best climbers. 1020 01:04:15,710 --> 01:04:20,260 Waiting to see who's going to man-up first and send the thing. 1021 01:04:36,110 --> 01:04:48,490 Spotters: Come on Daniel. Breathe, breathe. 1022 01:04:48,500 --> 01:04:59,970 Come on Dan, stand tall. Stand. Come on. 1023 01:05:04,470 --> 01:05:11,560 Get the hold. Yeah Deep breath. 1024 01:05:18,360 --> 01:05:21,990 Emerson: Daniel was the first one to link all the moves to the lip without falling. 1025 01:05:21,990 --> 01:05:24,820 Woods: I was like fuck, this is my shot at the first ascent. 1026 01:05:24,820 --> 01:05:28,490 Webb: But for him, the crux became the mental aspect of it. 1027 01:05:28,870 --> 01:05:31,000 Woods: Getting up onto the upper headwall, 1028 01:05:31,000 --> 01:05:32,910 it's within grasp you know. 1029 01:05:38,590 --> 01:05:42,550 But questing up this giant face to a scary top out... 1030 01:05:42,550 --> 01:05:44,300 I wasn't trusting myself up there. 1031 01:05:50,310 --> 01:05:52,430 I think I just let fear get the better of me. 1032 01:05:53,730 --> 01:05:56,600 I'm the biggest puss, why am I such a puss? 1033 01:05:56,610 --> 01:05:58,610 I definitely want to get the first ascent, 1034 01:05:58,610 --> 01:06:02,740 but with a line like this the consequences are massive, 1035 01:06:02,740 --> 01:06:07,160 so I need to get better prepared before going into the deep end. 1036 01:06:13,120 --> 01:06:15,540 Emerson: Daniel is very hard on himself. 1037 01:06:15,540 --> 01:06:18,380 He's haunted by these things that he feels like he can't do. 1038 01:06:19,090 --> 01:06:20,960 Woods: This line is just playing with my head, 1039 01:06:20,960 --> 01:06:24,010 kind of taunting me and making me look like a fool 1040 01:06:24,010 --> 01:06:27,760 but I just realized that you're not actually battling the rock. 1041 01:06:27,760 --> 01:06:29,260 You're always battling yourself. 1042 01:06:29,260 --> 01:06:32,220 The rock presents this problem 1043 01:06:32,220 --> 01:06:37,810 and you have to learn about yourself to succeed on it. 1044 01:06:38,310 --> 01:06:41,110 Trainer: Last one, Last one. Good, down, rest. 1045 01:06:46,360 --> 01:06:49,410 Woods: I've learned that I'm a very fearful person in life. 1046 01:06:49,410 --> 01:06:53,410 I worry a lot. I have some anxiety you know. 1047 01:06:53,410 --> 01:06:57,080 And um I'm just trying to learn how to be more present 1048 01:06:57,080 --> 01:07:02,500 and be able to face it face-to-face and overcome it. 1049 01:07:03,050 --> 01:07:04,720 (DOG BARKING) 1050 01:07:10,300 --> 01:07:12,970 Woods: After training, when I get home, I meditate. 1051 01:07:12,970 --> 01:07:17,350 Just train your mind to not have any thoughts that are distracting you. 1052 01:07:19,810 --> 01:07:23,650 I went to the psychology section of the book store, 1053 01:07:23,650 --> 01:07:25,780 looking for something to help me out a little bit, 1054 01:07:25,780 --> 01:07:27,150 give me that extra edge I need. 1055 01:07:27,150 --> 01:07:30,490 I just broke down the climb into three sections 1056 01:07:30,490 --> 01:07:34,040 and the different breathing techniques I would use for each section. 1057 01:07:34,040 --> 01:07:36,660 Woods: The first one is inhale mouth, exhale mouth. 1058 01:07:39,040 --> 01:07:41,500 For the midd section you don't need to be so amped, 1059 01:07:41,500 --> 01:07:42,710 you need like a combination. 1060 01:07:45,920 --> 01:07:49,010 And then when I get to the slab I need to completely settle down, 1061 01:07:49,010 --> 01:07:52,010 so I'm going to inhale through the nose, exhale through the nose. 1062 01:07:56,270 --> 01:07:58,810 And then you're at peace, and then you top out and you're psyched. 1063 01:08:00,770 --> 01:08:03,150 Woods: This thing sits in the sun all day long, 1064 01:08:03,150 --> 01:08:06,480 it bakes and these holds are very condition dependent 1065 01:08:06,490 --> 01:08:07,650 so you need it to be cold. 1066 01:08:07,650 --> 01:08:12,870 So I'm definitely going to have to resort to doing this boulder in the nighttime. 1067 01:08:13,910 --> 01:08:18,120 The thought of going up on that upper slab in the night is pretty terrifying. 1068 01:08:22,710 --> 01:08:24,750 Luckily we have a good crew of people 1069 01:08:24,750 --> 01:08:26,920 who are willing to help haul out the 20 pads 1070 01:08:26,920 --> 01:08:29,420 and hold lanterns and lights 1071 01:08:29,420 --> 01:08:31,840 and just be there to help cheer us on, you know. 1072 01:08:31,840 --> 01:08:33,430 It's a community effort. 1073 01:08:34,350 --> 01:08:37,390 I went off by myself and just chilled for a second. 1074 01:08:37,390 --> 01:08:43,100 I need to be humble and to be like, look this thing is a lot greater than I am you know. 1075 01:08:43,110 --> 01:08:44,730 It's like, slow down Daniel, 1076 01:08:44,730 --> 01:08:46,570 don't get ahead of yourself. 1077 01:08:46,570 --> 01:08:50,450 Yeah, you know you're strong enough but are you present enough? 1078 01:09:46,250 --> 01:09:48,050 (spotters cheerings) 1079 01:09:55,640 --> 01:09:59,180 Woods: A lot of emotions rushed through me when I got to the lip. 1080 01:10:01,640 --> 01:10:02,850 I'm already tired. 1081 01:10:02,850 --> 01:10:05,690 I can feel all the nerves in my fingers pulsing, 1082 01:10:05,690 --> 01:10:09,940 and there was something in my head telling me to stop. 1083 01:10:14,070 --> 01:10:16,410 But I was able to calm myself down 1084 01:10:20,160 --> 01:10:21,910 and focus on what was in front of me. 1085 01:10:34,090 --> 01:10:37,340 And then I was like oh crap, I'm actually going for it now. 1086 01:10:55,490 --> 01:10:57,360 SCREAMS 1087 01:10:57,360 --> 01:10:59,830 Spotters: Yeah daniel come on man 1088 01:11:27,270 --> 01:11:31,690 (WOO!) (CHEERS) 1089 01:11:33,070 --> 01:11:34,820 Woods: Sure I climbed something hard 1090 01:11:34,820 --> 01:11:38,950 but I achieved something much more than just a number. 1091 01:11:39,320 --> 01:11:40,240 Best feeling ever. 1092 01:11:42,490 --> 01:11:45,500 I conquered fear. 1093 01:12:06,540 --> 01:12:08,960 Narrator: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: 1094 01:12:08,960 --> 01:12:12,460 a sleepy patch of rural Arkansas. 1095 01:12:12,750 --> 01:12:17,090 Narrator: Where a new set of footwear counts as a big event. 1096 01:12:23,970 --> 01:12:25,770 Narrator: But once a year, 1097 01:12:25,770 --> 01:12:31,230 this little slice of heaven is taken over by hundreds of rock climbers, 1098 01:12:31,230 --> 01:12:35,940 who come gussied up and chomping at the bit, 1099 01:12:35,940 --> 01:12:39,450 to spend a weekend in hell. 1100 01:12:42,870 --> 01:12:47,660 Honnold: 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell is the craziest climbing event in the country. 1101 01:12:47,660 --> 01:12:49,290 Johnson: It’s like the Burning Man of climbing. 1102 01:12:49,290 --> 01:12:52,710 Chasteen: Teams of two climb all day and all night, you don’t stop. 1103 01:12:52,710 --> 01:12:53,710 Robinson: And partying the whole time. 1104 01:12:56,630 --> 01:13:01,720 Chasteen: The object is to climb as many routes as you possibly can in 24 hours. 1105 01:13:01,720 --> 01:13:04,510 Collins: This year you have these super sick pros coming in. 1106 01:13:04,510 --> 01:13:06,180 Unidentified: Everyone knows about Alex Honnold. 1107 01:13:06,180 --> 01:13:08,850 Tower: And then those other guys. 1108 01:13:08,850 --> 01:13:11,230 Robinson: These elite climbers are gonna battle it out. 1109 01:13:11,230 --> 01:13:14,860 Earle: Honnold can out climb me any day of the week. But I bet he’s never been in a fight. 1110 01:13:14,860 --> 01:13:16,980 Berry: Take that Honnold. UGH! 1111 01:13:20,740 --> 01:13:22,320 Honnold: I’m coming for you, Mason. 1112 01:13:24,240 --> 01:13:25,830 Cowboy: Welcome to Arkansas. 1113 01:13:28,120 --> 01:13:30,710 Collins: People come to Horseshoe Hell from all over the country. 1114 01:13:30,710 --> 01:13:34,580 You have total beginners, old-timers. 1115 01:13:34,590 --> 01:13:37,630 Unidentified: Everyone that comes to Horseshoe Hell is there to have a good time. 1116 01:13:37,630 --> 01:13:39,670 Robinson: And everyone has these outrageous team names. 1117 01:13:59,610 --> 01:14:01,650 Unidentified: Then you have Alex Honnold. 1118 01:14:01,650 --> 01:14:06,280 He’s the most recognizable climbing figure in the world. 1119 01:14:06,280 --> 01:14:08,790 Towers: For Alex this is a very serious event. 1120 01:14:08,790 --> 01:14:12,250 Robinson: Alex Honnold isn’t here to have fun. He’s here to win. 1121 01:14:12,250 --> 01:14:16,000 Pearson: If I were to say to him “let’s go have fun” it would be like speaking another language. 1122 01:14:16,000 --> 01:14:18,300 I don’t think he would understand what I mean. 1123 01:14:18,300 --> 01:14:20,170 Pearson: I said we gotta come up with a great team name. 1124 01:14:20,170 --> 01:14:21,670 We could be Thelma and Louise. 1125 01:14:22,840 --> 01:14:24,800 Pearson: He called our team Honnold and Pearson. 1126 01:14:24,800 --> 01:14:26,890 That’s our team name? How boring. 1127 01:14:26,890 --> 01:14:28,680 Honnold: I mean I hate to sound like a fuddy-duddy 1128 01:14:28,680 --> 01:14:31,270 but like I don’t need a team name, I don’t need a costume, 1129 01:14:31,270 --> 01:14:32,690 I’m just gonna go out and I’m gonna climb a lot. 1130 01:14:33,480 --> 01:14:34,730 Producer: And why don’t you need those things? 1131 01:14:35,100 --> 01:14:38,520 [Hummingbird sounds] 1132 01:14:39,110 --> 01:14:39,860 Honnold: Should we try to shoot it? 1133 01:14:42,070 --> 01:14:44,150 Honnold: Yeah I see that. Fuck that little bird. 1134 01:14:44,160 --> 01:14:46,910 I didn’t even know hummingbirds made noise. 1135 01:14:48,620 --> 01:14:50,540 Frisbie: I think he's here to get first place. 1136 01:14:52,870 --> 01:14:55,120 Narrator: But don't be too quick on the draw, 1137 01:14:55,120 --> 01:14:58,380 because Honnold's not the only horse at the county fair. 1138 01:14:58,380 --> 01:14:58,750 (HORSE WHINNY) 1139 01:14:58,750 --> 01:15:01,710 Unidentified: Alex’s main competition is Nik Berry and Mason Earle. 1140 01:15:01,710 --> 01:15:03,170 Earle: My name’s Mason Earle. 1141 01:15:03,170 --> 01:15:03,920 Berry: Nik Berry. 1142 01:15:03,930 --> 01:15:06,640 Earle: I’m an outdoor adventure enthusiast. 1143 01:15:06,640 --> 01:15:10,510 Berry: I’m in the transition of becoming a nurse. 1144 01:15:10,520 --> 01:15:12,060 Producer: Have you heard of Alex Honnold? 1145 01:15:12,060 --> 01:15:14,020 Berry: Yes, I’ve heard of Alex Honnold. 1146 01:15:14,020 --> 01:15:16,900 He’s the guy from 60 Minutes. 1147 01:15:16,900 --> 01:15:20,650 Tower: Nik and Mason are small potatoes compared to Alex Honnold, you know? 1148 01:15:20,650 --> 01:15:21,530 Unidentified: They're the underdogs. 1149 01:15:21,530 --> 01:15:23,320 Robinson: I wouldn't say B-squad exactly 1150 01:15:23,320 --> 01:15:25,700 but they're not on the front pages of the magazines. 1151 01:15:25,700 --> 01:15:28,700 Berry: Uh, Mason and I actually met in Indian Creek. 1152 01:15:28,700 --> 01:15:32,740 My old roommate was shooting photos of me on this route, 1153 01:15:32,750 --> 01:15:36,040 knocked a rock, and it hit me in the head. 1154 01:15:36,040 --> 01:15:39,790 And uh, blood started coming down my eyes. 1155 01:15:39,790 --> 01:15:42,960 And I just kept trying to climb, 1156 01:15:42,960 --> 01:15:47,470 eventually had to give up because I couldn't see cause the blood was in my eyes. 1157 01:15:47,470 --> 01:15:50,140 And Mason just happened to be there. 1158 01:15:50,140 --> 01:15:56,390 He just made me feel so warm and comforted and ever since then we've been such kind kin. 1159 01:16:07,490 --> 01:16:09,530 Unidentified: Nik and Mason are super lovable, 1160 01:16:09,530 --> 01:16:12,740 but they just don't have that competitive edge that Alex Honnold has. 1161 01:16:12,740 --> 01:16:14,490 Unidentified: They’re lacking that killer extinct. 1162 01:16:14,500 --> 01:16:17,660 Berry: I've never actually done a climbing competition before. 1163 01:16:17,670 --> 01:16:21,840 Earle: It's just I just feel silly saying I want to win, but we’re gonna try our best. 1164 01:16:23,840 --> 01:16:25,880 Narrator: Will these two young bucks get trampled? 1165 01:16:25,880 --> 01:16:27,800 Honnold: I’m coming for you Mason. 1166 01:16:27,800 --> 01:16:31,050 Narrator: Or can they tame the wild stallion that is Alex Honnold? 1167 01:16:31,050 --> 01:16:32,560 Honnold: This is like being in a cowboy movie. 1168 01:16:33,100 --> 01:16:36,180 Narrator: Fortunately, Nik and Mason have a secret weapon. 1169 01:16:36,180 --> 01:16:38,100 Berry: We've got some tricks up our sleeves. 1170 01:16:38,100 --> 01:16:40,350 Earle: Nik and I's biggest advantage that um, 1171 01:16:40,350 --> 01:16:42,440 nobody else has is, uh, 1172 01:16:42,440 --> 01:16:44,650 our coach, coach Todd. 1173 01:16:47,650 --> 01:16:49,030 Earle: Todd's got a good look. 1174 01:16:49,030 --> 01:16:51,490 It's sort of the Missouri Zen. 1175 01:16:51,490 --> 01:16:53,700 Chew in the lip, hair done up. 1176 01:16:53,700 --> 01:16:55,700 Like a tobacco fueled rocket. 1177 01:16:57,120 --> 01:17:00,920 Narrator: Todd Johnson was the first champion back in 2007, 1178 01:17:00,920 --> 01:17:03,540 and he’s still obsessed with this event. 1179 01:17:03,540 --> 01:17:06,380 Johnson: Mason called me up, said Hey Todd, can you give me some help? 1180 01:17:06,380 --> 01:17:09,260 What they’re doing is what I dream of doing. 1181 01:17:09,260 --> 01:17:12,300 Earle: Todd's a real scientist in his approach to Horseshoe Hell. 1182 01:17:12,300 --> 01:17:14,600 Johnson: I've got a training program I emailed them. 1183 01:17:14,600 --> 01:17:15,720 Changing their diet. 1184 01:17:15,720 --> 01:17:19,180 The route list I’m doing for them is my fantasy. 1185 01:17:19,190 --> 01:17:21,230 Earle: Next thing you know, he had a highlighter out. 1186 01:17:21,230 --> 01:17:22,900 And he just went into coach mode. 1187 01:17:22,900 --> 01:17:23,980 Berry: "Alright, here's the plan guys." 1188 01:17:23,980 --> 01:17:25,860 "You’re gonna do all these routes." 1189 01:17:25,860 --> 01:17:27,650 Earle: He's got this big spreadsheet, all the routes we have to do, 1190 01:17:27,650 --> 01:17:30,570 all the point totals, the time limits we have for each section. 1191 01:17:30,570 --> 01:17:34,070 Johnson: If you want to win, you've got to climb one route every three minutes. 1192 01:17:34,080 --> 01:17:38,370 Earle: If you do all this, you guys will beat last year's score. 1193 01:17:38,370 --> 01:17:40,120 Unidentified: Todd may give them the competitive edge. 1194 01:17:40,120 --> 01:17:43,040 Tower: Those guys bringing a coach in is kind of a different level. 1195 01:17:43,040 --> 01:17:48,800 Unidentified: Three on one. It's like a cage match with three midgets against Andre the Giant. 1196 01:17:56,010 --> 01:18:01,480 Collins: Good morning Horseshoe Hell! 1197 01:18:01,480 --> 01:18:05,560 Collins: I want to see you face to face with your partner with your right hand raised. 1198 01:18:05,570 --> 01:18:07,730 Collins: Look deep into their souls. 1199 01:18:07,730 --> 01:18:08,860 Collins: Partner! 1200 01:18:08,860 --> 01:18:09,480 Crowd: Partner! 1201 01:18:09,490 --> 01:18:10,190 Collins: You! 1202 01:18:10,190 --> 01:18:10,820 Crowd: You! 1203 01:18:10,820 --> 01:18:12,070 Collins: Youuuu! 1204 01:18:12,070 --> 01:18:13,200 Crowd: Youuuu! 1205 01:18:13,200 --> 01:18:14,570 Collins: You talked me into this! 1206 01:18:14,570 --> 01:18:15,780 Crowd: You talked me into this! 1207 01:18:15,780 --> 01:18:18,200 Collins: When the sun rises upon the dawn of tomorrow, 1208 01:18:18,200 --> 01:18:20,000 Crowd: When the sun rises upon the dawn of tomorrow, 1209 01:18:20,000 --> 01:18:23,000 Collins: We will rise like zombies in the bowels of night! 1210 01:18:23,000 --> 01:18:24,250 Crowd: We will rise like zombies in the bowels of night! 1211 01:18:24,250 --> 01:18:27,130 Collins: We are lions in a field of lions! 1212 01:18:27,130 --> 01:18:28,500 Crowd: We are lions in a field of lions! 1213 01:18:28,500 --> 01:18:31,260 Collins: RAAAWWWRRRRRR 1214 01:18:31,260 --> 01:18:34,050 Collins: Let's climb! 1215 01:18:34,050 --> 01:18:35,090 Collins: Oww! 1216 01:18:35,340 --> 01:18:38,930 Chasteen: The shotgun sounds and people scatter to start their 24 hours. 1217 01:18:49,230 --> 01:18:50,940 Collins: The rules are pretty simple. 1218 01:18:50,940 --> 01:18:52,860 Chasteen: All routes have to be up on lead. 1219 01:18:52,860 --> 01:18:54,570 Collins: You can climb every route twice. 1220 01:18:54,570 --> 01:18:57,160 Chasteen: The harder a route you do, the more points you get. 1221 01:18:57,160 --> 01:18:58,370 Chasteen: Then your partner jumps on. 1222 01:18:58,370 --> 01:18:59,950 Chasteen: He or she does his pitch. 1223 01:18:59,950 --> 01:19:01,910 Collins: If you fall, no points. 1224 01:19:01,910 --> 01:19:03,410 Collins: That's pretty much the gist of it. 1225 01:19:04,290 --> 01:19:06,120 Narrator: When Horseshoe Hell kicks off, 1226 01:19:06,130 --> 01:19:09,880 folks are running around nuttier than a squirrel turd. 1227 01:19:09,880 --> 01:19:12,010 WOOOOOO!!! 1228 01:19:14,840 --> 01:19:17,350 Narrator: And Honnold’s climbing like he’s got a bee in his britches. 1229 01:19:18,140 --> 01:19:20,060 Robinson: Honnold, he started off climbing really hard. 1230 01:19:25,100 --> 01:19:25,770 Pearson: Yeah. 1231 01:19:29,320 --> 01:19:32,780 Narrator: But poor old Nik and Mason have a hitch in their giddy-up. 1232 01:19:32,780 --> 01:19:38,120 Earle and Berry: One, Two, Three, Shoot… 1233 01:19:38,120 --> 01:19:42,910 One, Two, Three, Shoot! 1234 01:19:42,910 --> 01:19:43,950 Berry: Oh, you crushed me. 1235 01:19:43,960 --> 01:19:45,960 Earle: First pitch of the day. 1236 01:19:48,040 --> 01:19:52,130 Johnson: It’s lactic acid on the hard routes that will absolutely fry you. 1237 01:19:52,130 --> 01:19:52,920 Earle: Alright Nik I’m with you. 1238 01:19:54,720 --> 01:19:56,970 Johnson: Time is the biggest issue. 1239 01:19:56,970 --> 01:19:57,800 They need to keep going. 1240 01:19:57,800 --> 01:20:00,100 Berry: We’re already hurting. 1241 01:20:00,100 --> 01:20:03,180 Hopefully we can just maintain the pain. 1242 01:20:05,230 --> 01:20:09,150 Honnold: So I guess my basic strategy is just to do difficulty over volume, 1243 01:20:09,150 --> 01:20:10,110 doing a lot of hard routes. 1244 01:20:10,110 --> 01:20:13,730 Honnold: I skipped the easy stuff because I cannot be bothered to climb 5.7. 1245 01:20:13,730 --> 01:20:15,360 I'm just like… 1246 01:20:20,700 --> 01:20:24,830 Unidentified:: He was climbing all the hard routes as fast as he could. 1247 01:20:24,830 --> 01:20:26,080 Robinson: But it's a risky strategy. 1248 01:20:26,080 --> 01:20:28,620 How long can you sustain that? 1249 01:20:28,620 --> 01:20:33,960 If you fall one move from the top, all that energy and skin - gone. 1250 01:20:33,960 --> 01:20:36,300 Narrator: But this is Alex Honnold, 1251 01:20:36,300 --> 01:20:40,300 who’s got a fancy reputation for not falling. 1252 01:20:40,930 --> 01:20:44,560 (NOO!) 1253 01:20:45,520 --> 01:20:48,980 The news echoed through the canyon. 1254 01:20:48,980 --> 01:20:49,810 HONNOLD FELL! 1255 01:20:49,810 --> 01:20:50,850 WHAT? HE FELL? 1256 01:20:50,860 --> 01:20:51,650 HONNOLD FELL? 1257 01:20:51,650 --> 01:20:54,030 HONNOLD FELL! 1258 01:20:54,530 --> 01:20:56,070 Berry: How was that fall, Honnold? 1259 01:20:56,070 --> 01:20:58,650 How was that, how'd that feel? 1260 01:21:00,110 --> 01:21:03,620 Probably those big cankles of yours, holding you down. 1261 01:21:08,210 --> 01:21:09,670 Earle: Oh Nik, you're mean. 1262 01:21:14,090 --> 01:21:15,920 Honnold: I fell on one of my routes so I suck, 1263 01:21:15,920 --> 01:21:19,630 but I’m going to flog myself to death because of it. 1264 01:21:24,100 --> 01:21:25,220 Earle: What the fuck, dude? 1265 01:21:25,220 --> 01:21:27,350 Why did I, why did I fall there? 1266 01:21:27,350 --> 01:21:29,560 Berry: TNF will probably drop him after this comp. 1267 01:21:29,560 --> 01:21:32,980 I don't think they sponsor failures. 1268 01:21:34,570 --> 01:21:37,690 Earle: Nik and I however are like three hours ahead of schedule. 1269 01:21:39,900 --> 01:21:42,240 Unidentified: Nik and Mason were crushing it. 1270 01:21:42,870 --> 01:21:44,070 Johnson: So right now, 1271 01:21:44,080 --> 01:21:47,660 we're on schedule to beat last year's high score, 1272 01:21:47,660 --> 01:21:49,750 uh, by almost a thousand points. 1273 01:21:49,750 --> 01:21:52,040 Earle: Todd has definitely raised our game. 1274 01:21:54,750 --> 01:21:56,380 Johnson: You guys are rockin! 1275 01:21:56,800 --> 01:21:59,590 Honnold: Coach Todd helpin' them out. I mean that's super helpful obviously. 1276 01:22:03,140 --> 01:22:06,350 Johnson: Pop it! Stay with it Nik, stay with it! 1277 01:22:06,510 --> 01:22:09,770 Excellent job, excellent job. 1278 01:22:09,770 --> 01:22:10,930 Honnold: I realized that I need some kind of help. 1279 01:22:10,940 --> 01:22:11,770 Berry: Thanks coach. 1280 01:22:11,770 --> 01:22:12,770 Johnson: Save your fingers. 1281 01:22:12,770 --> 01:22:14,980 Honnold: Somebody to keep track of score, keep track of routes. 1282 01:22:14,980 --> 01:22:18,360 Robinson: He needs somebody to carry the clipboard, someone to lift his spirits. 1283 01:22:18,360 --> 01:22:21,110 (laughs) 1284 01:22:23,160 --> 01:22:27,330 Narrator: From among the crowd of Honnold’s many admirers stepped one brave soul 1285 01:22:27,330 --> 01:22:29,830 to help him take the bull by the horns. 1286 01:22:31,960 --> 01:22:36,590 Narrator: Marisa Frazier brings the kind of positive attitude Honnold needs about now. 1287 01:22:36,590 --> 01:22:39,170 Pearson: She had more energy than the two of us put together. 1288 01:22:39,170 --> 01:22:40,550 Honnold: Marisa was the best. 1289 01:22:40,550 --> 01:22:42,420 Pearson: She was so supportive. 1290 01:22:42,430 --> 01:22:43,970 Marisa: Keeping up a really good pace! 1291 01:22:43,970 --> 01:22:46,890 Pearson: And she loved taking selfies with Alex. 1292 01:22:50,390 --> 01:22:51,810 Narrator: With Marisa on board, 1293 01:22:51,810 --> 01:22:55,100 Alex was happier than a possum eating a sweet potato. 1294 01:22:55,100 --> 01:22:57,060 And he was back on track. 1295 01:22:58,730 --> 01:23:01,940 Honnold: Nice pitch. Yeah I gotcha. 1296 01:23:03,860 --> 01:23:06,570 Narrator: Meanwhile, the Horseshoe Hellians keep the stoke burning, 1297 01:23:10,910 --> 01:23:13,120 as dusk settles on the canyon. 1298 01:23:21,630 --> 01:23:24,380 Chasteen: By the time 8 o’clock rolls around 1299 01:23:24,380 --> 01:23:26,220 it gets dark and the headlamps come on, 1300 01:23:26,220 --> 01:23:28,680 glow sticks come on, 1301 01:23:28,680 --> 01:23:30,600 people just stay moving. 1302 01:23:42,070 --> 01:23:43,490 Climber: Here's some psych man 1303 01:23:45,070 --> 01:23:46,490 Climber: Thank you! 1304 01:23:46,490 --> 01:23:48,240 Climber: Wow that was like an instant psych transfer. 1305 01:23:48,240 --> 01:23:49,740 Climbers: (Snake hiss) 1306 01:23:52,370 --> 01:23:54,830 Johnson: We’re looking at having a really good score. 1307 01:23:56,920 --> 01:23:59,290 Johnson: As long as we don’t lose energy during the night, 1308 01:23:59,290 --> 01:24:00,500 we’re gonna rock and roll. 1309 01:24:00,500 --> 01:24:02,260 Johnson: Easy climbing to the top Mason. 1310 01:24:09,850 --> 01:24:15,560 Honnold: Marisa did fine, I mean she kept track of our scores right. 1311 01:24:15,560 --> 01:24:17,270 Honnold: But then like in the middle of the night she got really drunk 1312 01:24:17,270 --> 01:24:18,650 and like free soloed some 5.5 1313 01:24:18,650 --> 01:24:20,730 and then when she got down she like fell asleep on the pad 1314 01:24:20,730 --> 01:24:22,110 and so we lost her for a couple hours. 1315 01:24:22,110 --> 01:24:23,980 And then she woke up all like, 1316 01:24:23,990 --> 01:24:25,650 "Oh god, what did I do with the scorecard?" 1317 01:24:29,070 --> 01:24:30,450 Honnold: We had this kinda surreal experience 1318 01:24:30,450 --> 01:24:33,450 where a bunch of drunk chicks showed up and started making like sex noises. 1319 01:24:33,870 --> 01:24:36,540 Girls: Oh, oh yeah. 1320 01:24:36,540 --> 01:24:39,540 Honnold: Grab it, grab it harder, ah. 1321 01:24:39,540 --> 01:24:41,250 Girls: Yeah that one right there, that feels good. 1322 01:24:42,090 --> 01:24:44,420 Pearson: Squeezing the hold, and stroking the hold, 1323 01:24:44,420 --> 01:24:47,470 and putting your hand in various cracks. 1324 01:24:47,470 --> 01:24:49,640 Honnold: I was like, what is wrong with these girls? 1325 01:24:55,640 --> 01:24:57,390 Pearson: They hung out for about an hour 1326 01:24:57,390 --> 01:25:00,310 before they got too drunk to focus and then they left. 1327 01:25:01,190 --> 01:25:03,480 Girls: Oh, fuck my life, ok. 1328 01:25:03,480 --> 01:25:05,440 Girls: We’re drunk and lost. 1329 01:25:07,240 --> 01:25:11,030 Narrator: The long nights of Horseshoe Hell are when the beasts come out. 1330 01:25:12,530 --> 01:25:14,160 The strong keep sending 1331 01:25:15,540 --> 01:25:17,370 and the weak cry for mama. 1332 01:25:18,210 --> 01:25:21,540 Robinson: Everybody's seeing cross-eyed, just trying to bang the routes out. 1333 01:25:22,710 --> 01:25:25,800 Climber: About 4 am, you're pulling from the bottom of the well. 1334 01:25:26,590 --> 01:25:28,130 Chasteen: People push themselves to the limit. 1335 01:25:29,050 --> 01:25:29,800 Climber: Getting a little rough. 1336 01:25:29,800 --> 01:25:32,140 Climber: Not gonna lie man I'm feeling bonking out quite a bit. 1337 01:25:32,140 --> 01:25:34,930 Chasteen: You see people passed out in the grass. 1338 01:25:37,520 --> 01:25:39,520 Berry: Your hands hurt really bad, 1339 01:25:39,520 --> 01:25:41,980 your feet hurt like hell, 1340 01:25:41,980 --> 01:25:44,070 it's just like this insane burning. 1341 01:25:45,190 --> 01:25:47,360 Earle: It was just kind of like agony. 1342 01:25:47,360 --> 01:25:48,940 Berry: The last thing you want to do is climb, 1343 01:25:48,950 --> 01:25:51,360 and you have you know, 60 more pitches to do. 1344 01:25:51,360 --> 01:25:53,450 Producer: Why do you have to just keep going? 1345 01:25:53,450 --> 01:25:56,240 Berry: Because you gotta try to beat Alex Honnold obviously. 1346 01:25:56,620 --> 01:25:58,790 Cameraman: What time in the morning is it? 1347 01:25:58,790 --> 01:26:00,960 Earle: It's like 4:20 or something. 1348 01:26:00,960 --> 01:26:03,080 Berry: 4:20 dog? 1349 01:26:03,080 --> 01:26:09,050 Earle: Oh, shit! 1350 01:26:09,050 --> 01:26:11,680 Earle: Ooh, that happened first try. 1351 01:26:11,680 --> 01:26:14,640 Johnson: We're having some trouble on some 13s 1352 01:26:14,640 --> 01:26:16,760 and Honnold kinda showed us up and, 1353 01:26:16,760 --> 01:26:17,760 and cruised 'em. 1354 01:26:17,770 --> 01:26:19,930 Earle: Did you send all those 5.13s? 1355 01:26:19,930 --> 01:26:23,520 Honnold: I sent all three of those like basically back to back to back pretty much. 1356 01:26:23,520 --> 01:26:24,560 So I basically did 6 of em. 1357 01:26:24,560 --> 01:26:27,110 It's like 3000 points in like 45 minutes. 1358 01:26:27,360 --> 01:26:29,780 Honnold: I mean I feel like it's one of those things if you guys don't have enough points 1359 01:26:29,780 --> 01:26:31,650 I should just go to bed right now and call it a day 1360 01:26:31,820 --> 01:26:33,410 Earle: All his shit-talking. 1361 01:26:33,820 --> 01:26:34,990 Cameraman: Do you have a response? 1362 01:26:35,030 --> 01:26:38,410 Earle: Tell Honnold that we’re not gonna show him any mercy. 1363 01:26:45,790 --> 01:26:48,000 Narrator: When dawn breaks, 1364 01:26:48,000 --> 01:26:50,210 hope is renewed 1365 01:26:50,210 --> 01:26:53,260 and life returns to the ranch. 1366 01:26:54,340 --> 01:26:55,800 Chasteen: When that sun comes up, 1367 01:26:55,800 --> 01:26:59,640 you get that last shot of adrenaline for that last hour. 1368 01:26:59,640 --> 01:27:01,350 Climber: Here's the digits, uh, 1369 01:27:01,350 --> 01:27:04,390 a little sore but I'll definitely be able to pick up a beer afterwards. 1370 01:27:04,400 --> 01:27:07,150 Climber: I am feeling invigorated now that the sun is up. 1371 01:27:23,040 --> 01:27:24,580 Climber: WOOO! 1372 01:27:28,920 --> 01:27:32,840 Johnson: So we got 7 more routes that we need to get in before 10. 1373 01:27:32,840 --> 01:27:34,010 I know they can do it. 1374 01:27:39,970 --> 01:27:41,930 Earle: Mmm fuck dude. 1375 01:27:42,560 --> 01:27:45,850 Berry: About 7 or 8 in the morning, Mason just lost it. 1376 01:27:45,850 --> 01:27:48,730 He was completely delusional, 1377 01:27:48,730 --> 01:27:51,190 doing all these weird moaning voices. 1378 01:27:51,650 --> 01:27:54,110 Earle: Ughhh mmmmmm 1379 01:27:54,110 --> 01:27:56,490 Berry: Ehhrrr Ehhhhr. (LAUGHS) 1380 01:27:57,160 --> 01:27:59,830 Earle: Ehhmmm. 1381 01:27:59,830 --> 01:28:00,830 Earle: Mmmmm. 1382 01:28:00,830 --> 01:28:03,700 Earle: Having to grunt on 5.8s. 1383 01:28:04,830 --> 01:28:08,630 Johnson: And motivating them, whatever tricks I could pull out, I tried. 1384 01:28:09,340 --> 01:28:11,210 Johnson: Good job Mason, last pitch of the day. 1385 01:28:11,210 --> 01:28:12,710 Johnson: This is your last one guys, I promise. 1386 01:28:12,880 --> 01:28:14,920 Earle: Yay, I’m done with coach’s list. 1387 01:28:14,920 --> 01:28:16,720 Johnson: And then, no this is your last one. 1388 01:28:16,720 --> 01:28:20,010 Earle: We're gonna have to try some fucked-up 11d. 1389 01:28:21,140 --> 01:28:23,390 Johnson: No, this is actually like a really fun route. 1390 01:28:23,390 --> 01:28:27,140 So, end on a happy note, with a smile. 1391 01:28:27,150 --> 01:28:28,060 Earle: I'm so happy. 1392 01:28:28,060 --> 01:28:34,480 Earle: (GRUNTING) 1393 01:28:34,490 --> 01:28:35,700 Earle: Thanks buddy. 1394 01:28:40,450 --> 01:28:42,450 Johnson: Yep. 1395 01:28:44,080 --> 01:28:47,080 Johnson: Nik gets down from the last one and he said uh, 1396 01:28:47,080 --> 01:28:50,420 "We finished your effin' list, I'm not doin another one!" 1397 01:28:50,630 --> 01:28:52,920 Berry: We wanted to make our coach proud, 1398 01:28:52,920 --> 01:28:54,050 that was the whole point. 1399 01:28:54,050 --> 01:28:55,880 Berry: God my feet hurt. 1400 01:29:00,260 --> 01:29:02,760 Berry: Flip flops feel so nice. 1401 01:29:02,760 --> 01:29:04,510 Honnold: This is hopefully my last route of the day. 1402 01:29:04,520 --> 01:29:06,770 I'm pooped and my hands really hurt, 1403 01:29:06,770 --> 01:29:09,560 and I already have many many points, 1404 01:29:09,560 --> 01:29:11,110 and I'm just kind of over it. 1405 01:29:12,270 --> 01:29:13,860 I'm so tired. 1406 01:29:14,530 --> 01:29:16,940 Pearson: He continued to just push that score. 1407 01:29:18,240 --> 01:29:20,200 He wanted to see how high he could get. 1408 01:29:23,700 --> 01:29:24,990 Chasteen: 10 o'clock comes. 1409 01:29:28,410 --> 01:29:31,000 Everybody turned in their score cards. 1410 01:29:31,670 --> 01:29:34,170 They're psyched that it's done. 1411 01:29:46,470 --> 01:29:49,480 Earle: Absolutely, we put in everything we possibly could've. 1412 01:29:49,480 --> 01:29:52,190 Berry: I just want my bed, a shower. 1413 01:29:52,190 --> 01:29:56,360 Earle: I wish I had a bed, I've got like a sticky leather couch cushions. 1414 01:29:59,280 --> 01:30:02,820 Chasteen: 11 o'clock, reality sets in and everybody just crashes. 1415 01:30:02,820 --> 01:30:04,580 The place is dead quiet. 1416 01:30:06,910 --> 01:30:11,580 Chasteen: Meanwhile, our scoring team is figuring out who climbed the most routes. 1417 01:30:14,920 --> 01:30:16,710 Chasteen: The awards ceremony starts later that night. 1418 01:30:16,750 --> 01:30:20,220 Robinson: Everybody gathers together in the center of the canyon to find out who won. 1419 01:30:20,220 --> 01:30:23,090 Chasteen: Ok so the results are in, people. 1420 01:30:25,510 --> 01:30:30,850 Chasteen: With a record-smashing 77,310 points, 1421 01:30:30,850 --> 01:30:33,520 Mason Earle and Nik Berry! 1422 01:30:34,310 --> 01:30:35,730 (CHEERS) 1423 01:30:36,940 --> 01:30:38,440 Earle: Here I'd have to check with my parents 1424 01:30:38,440 --> 01:30:41,280 but I'm pretty sure this is the first trophy I've ever gotten my whole life, 1425 01:30:41,280 --> 01:30:42,280 which is kind of exciting. 1426 01:30:42,860 --> 01:30:47,370 Earle: I was telling Todd, I was like, Todd, this is, this really your victory, you know? 1427 01:30:47,370 --> 01:30:48,950 Earle: He's like, "Yeah." 1428 01:30:50,620 --> 01:30:54,580 Johnson: Yeah. I’ll brag about it. I’m coach. 1429 01:30:56,170 --> 01:30:58,170 Robinson: It took two pretty good climbers, 1430 01:30:58,170 --> 01:30:59,090 and a coach, 1431 01:30:59,090 --> 01:31:00,670 to beat Alex Honnold. 1432 01:31:00,670 --> 01:31:02,420 Honnold: I didn't beat Nik and Mason's team score, 1433 01:31:02,430 --> 01:31:04,430 so I gotta come back and claim it. 1434 01:31:04,430 --> 01:31:05,510 We'll see. 1435 01:31:06,800 --> 01:31:08,760 Berry: 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell 1436 01:31:08,770 --> 01:31:12,770 is the worst experience I’ve ever had of my life, 1437 01:31:12,770 --> 01:31:15,190 and I will never return. 1438 01:31:15,190 --> 01:31:18,070 Ever. 1439 01:31:18,980 --> 01:31:21,190 Narrator: And with that ringing endorsement, 1440 01:31:21,190 --> 01:31:25,110 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell draws to a close. 1441 01:31:25,870 --> 01:31:27,780 As these long suffering climbers 1442 01:31:27,780 --> 01:31:32,160 finally get to wet their snouts and go hog-wild. 1443 01:31:32,870 --> 01:31:35,290 Chasteen: Saturday evening the real party begins. 1444 01:31:35,290 --> 01:31:39,880 People are done, they're ready to like, let their hair down. 1445 01:31:45,890 --> 01:31:48,640 Collins: The party as usual, went a little overboard. 1446 01:31:50,520 --> 01:31:51,350 Tower: That was a little much. 1447 01:31:51,350 --> 01:31:52,310 Maybe it wasn't enough, 1448 01:31:52,310 --> 01:31:53,020 I don't know what it was, 1449 01:31:53,020 --> 01:31:54,520 I barely remember. 1450 01:31:58,270 --> 01:32:00,860 Unidentified: Marisa just full on went for it with Spiderman. 1451 01:32:02,030 --> 01:32:03,530 Robinson: Who was that masked man? 1452 01:32:03,530 --> 01:32:06,200 Was it Nik? Mason? 1453 01:32:44,667 --> 01:32:45,733 Caldwell: You got it. 1454 01:32:46,100 --> 01:32:46,633 (NOO!) 1455 01:32:46,833 --> 01:32:47,300 (OOF!) 1456 01:32:49,733 --> 01:32:51,333 (GRUNT) 1457 01:32:51,333 --> 01:32:51,467 (AHH!) (GRUNT) 1458 01:32:51,467 --> 01:32:52,533 (AHH!) 1459 01:32:55,200 --> 01:32:58,367 Caldwell: It's just a monumental project. 1460 01:33:04,733 --> 01:33:07,566 Branch: Hey guys, its John Branch from the New York Times. How's it goin up there? 1461 01:33:07,567 --> 01:33:10,199 Caldwell: Good John. Good to hear from you man. 1462 01:33:10,200 --> 01:33:11,699 Jorgeson: Hey John, it's Kevin. 1463 01:33:11,700 --> 01:33:14,466 Branch: Hey Kevin. Uh, how high up are you guys right now? 1464 01:33:14,467 --> 01:33:18,632 Caldwell: We are about 1200 feet up the wall at our base camp. 1465 01:33:18,633 --> 01:33:20,332 This has been our home for 9 days now. 1466 01:33:20,333 --> 01:33:26,366 Branch: I've asked a couple people if you're basically Ahab chasing Moby Dick? 1467 01:33:26,367 --> 01:33:29,666 Caldwell: Yeah, totally. I've actually called this that exact thing. 1468 01:33:29,667 --> 01:33:31,267 This is my Moby Dick for sure. 1469 01:33:33,367 --> 01:33:36,499 Caldwell: No project has consumed me as much as the Dawn Wall. 1470 01:33:36,500 --> 01:33:41,333 It's the steepest blankest face on the best big wall in the world. 1471 01:33:42,367 --> 01:33:45,299 This year we started our big push in the middle of winter 1472 01:33:45,300 --> 01:33:49,233 because the holds are so small and we needed the best friction we could find. 1473 01:33:49,367 --> 01:33:50,867 Caldwell: It's gonna be awesome. 1474 01:33:53,100 --> 01:33:56,133 Caldwell: Things went well, like really well. 1475 01:33:57,333 --> 01:34:02,433 The hardest section of the route is this 250 foot traverse right in the middle of the wall. 1476 01:34:03,233 --> 01:34:05,300 Jorgeson: OH YEAH! 1477 01:34:06,133 --> 01:34:07,567 Jorgeson : Holy shit! 1478 01:34:08,800 --> 01:34:11,832 Caldwell: When we did pitch 14 it was this huge breakthrough, 1479 01:34:11,833 --> 01:34:13,867 and it got us halfway through the traverse. 1480 01:34:14,333 --> 01:34:15,232 Jorgeson: Yeah Tommy! 1481 01:34:15,233 --> 01:34:16,466 Caldwell: BOOM! 1482 01:34:16,467 --> 01:34:21,133 Caldwell: But I was still really worried because the next day was pitch 15. 1483 01:34:28,533 --> 01:34:32,267 Caldwell: It's the closest thing I've come to climbing like a sheet of glass. 1484 01:34:32,533 --> 01:34:33,400 Jorgeson: Come on Tommy! 1485 01:34:33,433 --> 01:34:35,832 Caldwell: You're just waiting to slip off at any moment. 1486 01:34:35,833 --> 01:34:37,266 Jorgeson: Come on! 1487 01:34:37,267 --> 01:34:41,366 Caldwell: The holds are tiny, it's like credit cards glued to the wall. 1488 01:34:41,367 --> 01:34:45,432 And you just have to pull down on them as hard as you can 1489 01:34:45,433 --> 01:34:47,233 and then pull as far as you can. 1490 01:34:52,167 --> 01:34:54,466 Caldwell: I suddenly felt this confidence. 1491 01:34:54,467 --> 01:34:56,700 I felt like I just wasn't going to fall. 1492 01:34:59,433 --> 01:35:03,867 And that was really cool to come to that after you know seven years of working on that pitch. 1493 01:35:12,800 --> 01:35:15,232 Jorgeson: I was over the moon psyched 1494 01:35:15,233 --> 01:35:17,599 to watch Tommy send pitch 15. 1495 01:35:17,600 --> 01:35:20,867 It was one of the more impressive pieces of climbing I've ever seen. 1496 01:35:23,200 --> 01:35:24,199 Jorgeson: Yeah buddy! 1497 01:35:24,200 --> 01:35:24,299 Caldwell: BOOM! 1498 01:35:24,300 --> 01:35:26,132 Caldwell: At that point I was like, we are on a roll. 1499 01:35:26,133 --> 01:35:29,099 I mean there's a million things that have to come together right to send the thing, 1500 01:35:29,100 --> 01:35:32,399 but I was way more confident than I ever had been. 1501 01:35:32,400 --> 01:35:36,333 Caldwell: YEAH HAHA! Psyched dude! 1502 01:35:36,333 --> 01:35:36,367 Jorgeson: The next day, it was on the next page of the New York Times and it just exploded. Caldwell: YEAH HAHA! Psyched dude! 1503 01:35:36,367 --> 01:35:40,799 Jorgeson: The next day, it was on the next page of the New York Times and it just exploded. 1504 01:35:40,800 --> 01:35:43,599 News Anchor: Two guys perched on a cliff above Yosemite. 1505 01:35:43,600 --> 01:35:45,432 News Anchor: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson 1506 01:35:45,433 --> 01:35:48,166 News Anchor: They're attempting to free climb the Dawn Wall. 1507 01:35:48,167 --> 01:35:51,132 Caldwell: Suddenly the whole world was watching this climb. 1508 01:35:51,133 --> 01:35:52,866 Jorgeson: Which wasn't the best timing 1509 01:35:52,867 --> 01:35:55,133 for me personally. 1510 01:35:56,867 --> 01:35:59,399 Caldwell: Kevin had tried this pitch you know hundreds of times 1511 01:35:59,400 --> 01:36:00,799 and he had never been able to do it. 1512 01:36:00,800 --> 01:36:05,432 It was actually harder than any piece of climbing he had ever done in his life. 1513 01:36:05,433 --> 01:36:07,833 There was just a lot of pressure on him. 1514 01:36:08,600 --> 01:36:11,367 Jorgeson: AHH! AHH! AHHHH! 1515 01:36:13,133 --> 01:36:16,566 Jorgeson: Everyone's tuning in to a story of climbers living on the side of a wall, 1516 01:36:16,567 --> 01:36:18,232 and one of them is stuck. 1517 01:36:18,233 --> 01:36:21,467 News Anchor: Well history is on hold right now is Yosemite National Park. 1518 01:36:22,633 --> 01:36:25,132 Kevin Jorgeson is stuck. 1519 01:36:25,133 --> 01:36:26,466 Jorgeson: I'm tired. 1520 01:36:26,467 --> 01:36:27,600 Caldwell: Yeah 1521 01:36:28,500 --> 01:36:32,099 Jorgeson: One thing that I was battling was two split fingers. 1522 01:36:32,100 --> 01:36:36,299 So I took two rest days of just staring at my fingers, 1523 01:36:36,300 --> 01:36:37,867 willing them to heal. 1524 01:36:39,467 --> 01:36:42,133 Cameraman: Today is day eleven. 1525 01:36:42,733 --> 01:36:44,433 Jorgeson: Tommy do you have the ibuprofen? 1526 01:36:46,700 --> 01:36:47,832 Jorgeson: Oh yeah! 1527 01:36:47,833 --> 01:36:49,532 Jorgeson: The mission is for me to finish pitch 15. 1528 01:36:51,533 --> 01:36:53,467 Jorgeson: Sending vitamins. 1529 01:36:53,867 --> 01:36:56,767 Jorgeson: I know the moves, I’m going to do it. 1530 01:37:13,400 --> 01:37:16,500 Jorgeson: The best conditions are when it gets dark. 1531 01:37:17,867 --> 01:37:20,433 There's a nice cold breeze blowing up the wall. 1532 01:37:23,267 --> 01:37:26,633 You've been waiting for days for the skin to heal. 1533 01:37:29,167 --> 01:37:30,600 For this moment to come. 1534 01:37:33,300 --> 01:37:34,667 Now is the time to do it. 1535 01:38:20,533 --> 01:38:22,133 Jorgeson: I felt weightless. 1536 01:38:23,600 --> 01:38:27,233 I was floating across the pitch. 1537 01:38:30,500 --> 01:38:32,133 Caldwell: Come on. 1538 01:38:34,500 --> 03:17:08,867 Hold it together. 1539 01:38:44,300 --> 01:38:44,600 Jorgeson: (GRUNTS) 1540 01:38:47,833 --> 01:38:50,533 Caldwell:Come on Kevin! Do it man! You got it. 1541 01:38:52,333 --> 01:38:52,866 Come on. 1542 01:38:52,867 --> 01:38:54,632 You got it. Come on. 1543 01:38:54,633 --> 01:38:57,166 Find it. 1544 01:38:57,167 --> 01:38:58,800 Good. Come on. 1545 01:38:59,667 --> 01:39:02,200 Jorgeson: AHHHHHH!!! 1546 01:39:02,267 --> 01:39:03,433 Caldwell: Oh no! 1547 01:39:03,567 --> 01:39:05,732 Jorgeson: Everything was perfect. 1548 01:39:05,733 --> 01:39:06,466 Caldwell: That was so good dude! 1549 01:39:06,467 --> 01:39:09,600 Jorgeson: And I still didn't do it. 1550 01:39:10,167 --> 01:39:15,667 Jorgeson: Tonight didn't go so well. 1551 01:39:18,633 --> 01:39:20,466 It was a battle and I didn't win. 1552 01:39:20,467 --> 01:39:26,233 I don't know what this means. I don't know if that's it? 1553 01:39:28,400 --> 01:39:30,232 Jorgeson: We repelled back to camp. 1554 01:39:30,233 --> 01:39:31,799 It was real quiet. 1555 01:39:31,800 --> 01:39:34,366 Tommy and I weren't talking. 1556 01:39:34,367 --> 01:39:39,167 I'm demoralized. I'm devastated. I'm beat to shit. 1557 01:39:41,367 --> 01:39:43,699 Jorgeson: I wanted to do that pitch so bad tonight. 1558 01:39:43,700 --> 01:39:46,199 Caldwell: I know. I wanted it too. 1559 01:39:46,200 --> 01:39:47,732 Jorgeson: I don't want to hold you back is the thing. 1560 01:39:47,733 --> 01:39:49,766 Caldwell: I’m definitely willing to wait for a while. 1561 01:39:49,767 --> 01:39:51,600 Jorgeson: Okay. 1562 01:39:54,433 --> 01:39:55,766 Jorgeson: I know I can do that pitch. 1563 01:39:55,767 --> 01:39:57,299 Caldwell: Yeah for sure. 1564 01:39:57,300 --> 01:40:01,300 Jorgeson: And I feel like if I can do that pitch I'm gonna be so fucking psyched. 1565 01:40:02,133 --> 01:40:05,100 There's nothing that's gonna stop me between there and the top. 1566 01:40:06,667 --> 01:40:08,366 Jorgeson: Tommy just said, 1567 01:40:08,367 --> 01:40:13,233 "I don't care how long it takes for you to send pitch 15. 1568 01:40:13,567 --> 01:40:15,667 We'll top out together." 1569 01:40:16,667 --> 01:40:19,266 Caldwell: We had worked on this thing together for seven years. 1570 01:40:19,267 --> 01:40:20,599 I had mentored Kevin. 1571 01:40:20,600 --> 01:40:22,866 I just tried to stay super optimistic. 1572 01:40:22,867 --> 01:40:28,232 But each day that I waited for Kevin there was a chance that weather could move in. 1573 01:40:28,233 --> 01:40:29,466 Living on the wall is rough. 1574 01:40:29,467 --> 01:40:32,199 I figured that just wall life would get me down 1575 01:40:32,200 --> 01:40:36,367 and I might not be able to do these pitches, which are almost as hard right afterwards. 1576 01:40:37,133 --> 01:40:39,366 Caldwell: While Kevin rested for two more days, 1577 01:40:39,367 --> 01:40:41,833 I decided to start working on pitch 16. 1578 01:40:42,233 --> 01:40:45,200 It's always been one of the biggest question marks on the whole wall. 1579 01:40:47,533 --> 01:40:50,466 Caldwell: When I first started looking for this climb up here seven years ago, 1580 01:40:50,467 --> 01:40:52,499 I had no idea where the route was going to go. 1581 01:40:52,500 --> 01:40:56,266 I spent the first two seasons alone just swinging around, 1582 01:40:56,267 --> 01:41:00,267 examining every inch of granite, looking for climbable features. 1583 01:41:00,367 --> 01:41:02,633 Caldwell: I don't know what's wrong with me but I love this shit. 1584 01:41:05,633 --> 01:41:09,632 Caldwell: Starting at the bottom of the wall there's a series of diagonal cracks 1585 01:41:09,633 --> 01:41:12,566 that go for a thousand feet, and then they end. 1586 01:41:12,567 --> 01:41:17,699 250 feet to the left of that there's another series of corners that angles up towards the top. 1587 01:41:17,700 --> 01:41:20,666 The traverse pitches 14 and 15 1588 01:41:20,667 --> 01:41:23,599 lead you across the face until the next crack system. 1589 01:41:23,600 --> 01:41:25,566 Well, almost. 1590 01:41:25,567 --> 01:41:28,832 There's this 8 foot blank section 1591 01:41:28,833 --> 01:41:30,432 completely smooth 1592 01:41:30,433 --> 01:41:32,833 nothing that you could even get your fingernails behind. 1593 01:41:33,733 --> 01:41:36,499 Caldwell: I had spent two years searching this whole route 1594 01:41:36,500 --> 01:41:38,400 and it came down to just 8 feet. 1595 01:41:49,600 --> 01:41:50,400 Caldwell: Nope, coming off. 1596 01:41:52,633 --> 01:41:55,432 Caldwell: You climb like 25 feet off the portaledge 1597 01:41:55,433 --> 01:41:58,433 and then you get to this last flake on the wall. 1598 01:41:59,767 --> 01:42:01,832 And all around you is total blankness. 1599 01:42:01,833 --> 01:42:05,799 The only feature is 8 feet left. 1600 01:42:05,800 --> 01:42:09,133 It just looks a million miles away. 1601 01:42:10,567 --> 01:42:14,567 But there was this spark of an idea that maybe, I could just jump. 1602 01:42:14,667 --> 01:42:16,767 Caldwell: (AHHH!) 1603 01:42:19,633 --> 01:42:22,199 Caldwell: I mean I'm not really very good at dyno-ing, 1604 01:42:22,200 --> 01:42:25,400 but I mean it seemed like the only way. 1605 01:42:27,100 --> 01:42:28,466 Caldwell: Oh, getting a little tired. 1606 01:42:28,467 --> 01:42:31,266 Caldwell: This is probably one of the craziest dynos I've ever tried 1607 01:42:31,267 --> 01:42:34,433 and it's right in the middle of El Cap so it's sick. 1608 01:42:37,500 --> 01:42:39,232 Caldwell: When Kevin started trying the dyno 1609 01:42:39,233 --> 01:42:40,733 he was doing really well on it. 1610 01:42:46,767 --> 01:42:48,267 It made me believe that it could be done. 1611 01:42:48,267 --> 01:42:48,533 (AHHHH!) It made me believe that it could be done. 1612 01:42:48,533 --> 01:42:50,167 (AHHHH!) 1613 01:42:50,633 --> 01:42:53,266 Caldwell: In my mind this move was the last piece 1614 01:42:53,267 --> 01:42:56,366 to make this giant climb come together. 1615 01:42:56,367 --> 01:42:57,500 Caldwell: (AHHH!) 1616 01:42:59,100 --> 01:43:00,666 Caldwell: This incredibly violent move, 1617 01:43:00,667 --> 01:43:03,600 hucking yourself as hard as you can across the wall. 1618 01:43:05,267 --> 01:43:06,799 Caldwell: Really close! 1619 01:43:06,800 --> 01:43:08,132 Jorgeson: Oh, I sprained my ankle. 1620 01:43:08,133 --> 01:43:13,099 Caldwell: In 2011, Kevin sprained his ankle on the move and was out for the season. 1621 01:43:13,100 --> 01:43:14,167 Caldwell: You okay man? 1622 01:43:17,700 --> 01:43:21,867 Caldwell: In the off-season, I figured out a way to practice the move at home in Colorado. 1623 01:43:25,500 --> 01:43:29,367 I mapped out the move and built a wall specifically like that. 1624 01:43:30,433 --> 01:43:34,099 The distance from the starting hand hold to the finishing hand hold 1625 01:43:34,100 --> 01:43:38,633 is 101 inches, and the angle of the wall is 89 degrees. 1626 01:43:41,667 --> 01:43:44,232 Caldwell: I'd just go out there for two hours a day 1627 01:43:44,233 --> 01:43:45,767 and huck myself at this thing. 1628 01:43:50,567 --> 01:43:51,699 Becca would look at me and just just be like 1629 01:43:51,700 --> 01:43:54,633 "he's going insane, he's totally going insane!" 1630 01:43:57,233 --> 01:43:58,632 Becca: Oh, the dyno. 1631 01:43:58,633 --> 01:44:01,367 The dyno is Tommy's nemesis for sure. 1632 01:44:03,467 --> 01:44:06,432 He's been going out in snow storms, like windy, whatever. 1633 01:44:06,433 --> 01:44:08,866 It doesn't stop him. 1634 01:44:08,867 --> 01:44:11,800 He's committed. 1635 01:44:16,133 --> 01:44:18,532 Caldwell: I just gotta do it so I can do that every time 1636 01:44:18,533 --> 01:44:20,433 and then I gotta put on a smaller hold. 1637 01:44:25,700 --> 01:44:30,167 Caldwell: I had this feeling that I was literally just 8 feet from glory. 1638 01:44:37,833 --> 01:44:39,566 Jorgeson: How bad do you want it? 1639 01:44:39,567 --> 01:44:42,833 How much of a battle are you willing to have to do this pitch? 1640 01:44:44,833 --> 01:44:48,467 I'm gonna try again and I'm gonna succeed. 136492

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