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Welcome to the 10th annual
Reel Rock film tour.
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Reel Rock is presented by
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The North Face
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Working with the world's most
accomplished climbers for over 40 years.
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"Good job Conrad"
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Pushing the boundaries of innovation,
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so you can push your own boundaries.
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From the gnarliest boulders
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00:00:52,560 --> 00:00:54,060
to the highest peaks
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Never stop exploring.
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Also presented by...
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00:01:01,780 --> 00:01:02,990
Goretex products.
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00:01:08,740 --> 00:01:10,040
When you need to keep water out,
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Or let sweat out,
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00:01:16,000 --> 00:01:17,000
or keep wind out.
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When you need to trust
your gear's durability.
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Goretex products.
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Whatever the weather
experience the difference.
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For the past decade,
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Reel Rock has followed the biggest
stories in the climbing world.
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We've introduced a new
generation of characters.
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I'm Al... (clears throat) I'm Alex Honnold.
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My name's Ashima. I'm 9 years old.
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Enter Daniel Woods
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Ueli Steck
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Adam Ondra
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Sketchy Andy
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Captured some of their
greatest achievements.
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Climbing these walls as
fast as humanly possible.
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The hardest most beautiful
thing I've ever tried.
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There's no reason why female
climbers can't be as bold as men.
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And explored the meaning behind
this passion we all share.
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Why in God's green earth do
you guys climb mountains?
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Because we're insane.
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To search for something pure or beautiful
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You have to really work at it
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Climbing in a way is life.
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It's the whole process of pushing
yourself to a higher place (YELLS)
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Thanks to you the global
community of climbers,
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for joining us to celebrate
some of the visionary spirits
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and defining moments in our sport.
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WOOOO
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Reel Rock is also sponsored by
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Goal Zero:
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the power to help you get
out and stay out longer.
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Petzl:
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Creating innovative tools and techniques
to help you access the inaccessible
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Sterling Rope:[
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We provide tools that allow climbers to
safely confront unforgiving environments.
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Choose the right equipment.
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Skratch Labs
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The makers of real food sports
nutrition and hydration products.
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Climbing Magazine:
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Inspiring and enabling all climbers
to achieve greater heights. [
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00:04:05,880 --> 00:04:08,000
National Geographic Adventure:
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00:04:09,050 --> 00:04:12,630
Vote for the next National
Geographic Adventurer of the Year
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The Access Fund:
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day pass to the climbing
gym - sixteen dollars,
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rope and draws - three
hundred and fifty dollars,
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protecting America's climbing
- just thirty five dollars.
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Join the access fund.
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And the American Alpine club:
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Together we're stronger.
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Now Reel Rock 10 brings you a fresh blast
of inspiration from the vertical edge.
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Featuring:
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A groundbreaking alpine odyssey
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12000 feet of vertical climbing
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How would you not want to
try a skyline like that?
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I'm feeling a little intimidated at the moment
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Pretty epic camp setup
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A tribute to one of the great
vertical adventurers of our time
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An exclusive sneak-peak of the climb
that captured the world's imagination.
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The Dawn Wall it's like climbing
up a sheet of glass. (YELLS)
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I don't want to hold up the program,
but I want to do this route.
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The dangerous game of highball bouldering.
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This primal instinct - You
cannot fall right now.
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Consequences are massive (YELLS)
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And a twenty-four hour mad cap competition.
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It's like the burning man of climbing
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I'm coming for you Mason.
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How was that fall Honnold? How'd that feel?
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We're on the summit
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Get ready for Reel Rock 10.
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Caldwell: Dear Fitz,
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It’s hard to believe that just one week
ago, I said goodbye to you and your mom
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as you boarded the bus to
start your travels home,
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and I hiked into the mountains.
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My partner Alex and I had
dreamed like so many others
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of traversing the entire Fitz Roy range.
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It was an obvious goal, but I really
didn’t believe we would succeed.
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No one had yet. It was just too big.
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Garibotti: I don’t think you’ll find another
place like this anywhere in the world.
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Lama: Patagonia definitely is incredible.
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Garibotti: These towers that
are shooting through the sky.
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Cordes: 5000 foot faces rising
straight out of the glacier,
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like rows of sharpened teeth.
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Siadak: Massive walls
split by ribbons of ice.
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Cordes: If you’re a climber you can’t
help but be drawn to these mountains.
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They’re so spectacular.
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00:07:17,740 --> 00:07:20,030
Garibotti: The climbing here is
very technically challenging,
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you know you’re talking about
always climbing vertical granite.
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Chouinard: Patagonia is the
proving ground that you can do
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Yosemite style climbs but in
a real alpine environment.
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Siadak: There’s a lot of
ice and mixed climbing
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What we like to call alpine trickery.
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Cordes: The rock can be really
loose and incredibly dangerous.
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Siadak: I accidentally
ripped off this huge flake.
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That’s right where we were.
Right where that came down.
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There’s no easy way up any
single one of these peaks.
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Just mangled my fingers.
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We’ve been climbing the last 17 hours.
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We haven’t had like any water to drink.
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And no easy way off of them either.
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00:08:02,570 --> 00:08:05,370
Climber: This is really scary for me.
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00:08:05,370 --> 00:08:09,040
Lama: One of the biggest problems in climbing
in Patagonia is definitely the weather.
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00:08:09,080 --> 00:08:12,830
Chouinard: You get terrible weather there.
You’re so close to the Pacific.
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Cordes: The storms come off the ocean.
They just slam into the mountains.
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So sudden and so ferocious.
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Lama: When the wind is blowing really hard
I mean it can blow you off the mountain.
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Chouinard: If you get caught in one of
those storms you’re in big trouble.
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00:08:27,850 --> 00:08:30,980
Cordes: These crazy rime
ice mushrooms form,
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and then when the sun hits and
the rime starts to peel off
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it can become like a bombing range.
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Garibotti: It’s a very very serious
place that should not be taken lightly.
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Climber: I want to go home.
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Siadak: This range has played such
a role in the history of alpinism.
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Going all the way back to Yvon
Chouinard and the fun hogs.
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Chouinard: I first went to Patagonia
in 1968 to climb Fitz Roy.
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00:09:02,300 --> 00:09:05,720
That skyline is pretty amazing
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00:09:05,720 --> 00:09:09,560
and Fitz Roy was one of the most
beautiful mountains I've ever seen.
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The weather was bad. But we stuck
it out 31 days in an ice cave.
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And we finally climbed
Fitz Roy by a new route.
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Cordes: Climbers have come here for the
last 50 years to set new standards.
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Over the past decade or so
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00:09:27,570 --> 00:09:30,360
we have been starting to see a new school of alpinism.
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00:09:30,540 --> 00:09:34,920
Garibotti: Right now we're interested in
these enchainments or these long traverses.
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00:09:34,920 --> 00:09:38,090
Siadak: Extremely obvious
geographical or aesthetic lines.
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00:09:38,090 --> 00:09:40,380
Garibotti: With this new
vision of alpinism,
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it's only natural that the
Fitz Traverse would become
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one of the big, big climbs to pick.
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Siadak: The first thing you see even from a
hundred miles away as you're driving into town
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is the Fitz Roy skyline.
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The full Fitz Traverse is the biggest
project waiting to get done.
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00:10:02,900 --> 00:10:05,700
Haley: 7 beautiful summits all
lined up in one straight ridge.
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00:10:05,700 --> 00:10:10,580
Siadak: To climb all of
those peaks in one go.
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00:10:10,580 --> 00:10:15,370
Cordes: Enchaining the Fitz Roy skyline, you
know it's sort of the fantasy, the daydream.
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00:10:15,370 --> 00:10:17,710
Lama: Definitely one of the most
beautiful lines in the world.
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00:10:17,710 --> 00:10:21,670
Garibotti: It's very very jagged,
very steep, and very long.
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00:10:21,670 --> 00:10:24,510
Haley: It's an objective that has
been talked about for a long time.
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00:10:24,510 --> 00:10:25,970
Siadak: You know, who's gonna do it?
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00:10:29,050 --> 00:10:33,390
have got to be some grizzled alpinist.
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00:10:33,390 --> 00:10:37,480
Wait, Tommy? You mean the rock climber?
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00:10:37,650 --> 00:10:43,820
Spotters: Come on! You had it man, you
had it. Come on, come on, get it! Yeah!
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00:10:44,070 --> 00:10:48,240
Caldwell: I've been climbing my whole life but
I was kind of a fair weather rock climber.
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00:10:48,240 --> 00:10:50,240
When I thought of Patagonia, I thought of
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00:10:50,240 --> 00:10:53,700
burly dudes with big beards
suffering in the mountains.
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00:10:56,290 --> 00:10:58,580
I was a scrawny little sport
climbing kid, you know,
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00:10:58,580 --> 00:11:00,580
I didn't, I didn't belong
in the mountains like that.
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00:11:00,590 --> 00:11:06,510
But then I came down with my friend
Topher and had, just a mind-blowing trip.
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00:11:06,510 --> 00:11:08,470
Donahue: When I first
brought Tommy to Patagonia,
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00:11:08,470 --> 00:11:12,010
I knew that if he could handle the
ice and the snow and the wind,
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00:11:12,010 --> 00:11:15,350
if I could get him to the rock, that he would
crush it, and then all I had to do was hang on.
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00:11:16,430 --> 00:11:19,020
Caldwell: Once you get to the
rock climbing, it's incredible.
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00:11:19,020 --> 00:11:21,520
I mean it was like nothing
else I've experienced.
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00:11:21,520 --> 00:11:26,860
Donahue: We did the first free ascent of the east
face of Fitz Roy. This almost mile-tall wall.
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00:11:26,860 --> 00:11:30,200
Caldwell: 50 hours in a
continuous push without sleeping.
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00:11:30,200 --> 00:11:31,780
Donahue: Lots of hard 5.12 climbing.
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00:11:31,780 --> 00:11:36,700
We were exhausted and hallucinating
by the end but Tommy was unstoppable.
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00:11:37,250 --> 00:11:42,580
Caldwell: It was kind of this life-changing climb
that left me with this love of this place.
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00:11:42,590 --> 00:11:45,550
Donahue: It was very clear that he
could change the game in Patagonia.
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00:11:47,670 --> 00:11:52,470
Caldwell: I came back a couple more times and
I'd always see that Fitz Roy massif ridgeline.
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00:11:52,470 --> 00:11:57,310
It's one of the most iconic
mountain ranges in the world
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and to traverse the entire ridgeline has got to
be one of the coolest things I can think of.
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00:12:01,850 --> 00:12:05,610
But at the same time it
seemed kind of absurd.
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00:12:05,610 --> 00:12:09,700
12,000 feet of vertical climbing,
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00:12:09,700 --> 00:12:11,110
hundreds of rappels.
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00:12:11,110 --> 00:12:17,080
We'd have to move incredibly fast and
brave some kind of dangerous stuff.
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00:12:17,080 --> 00:12:19,290
And that was the part I
was most worried about.
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00:12:19,910 --> 00:12:23,420
But then I went to Yosemite
and climbed with Alex.
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00:12:25,090 --> 00:12:29,670
He's got this amazing
ability to control fear.
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00:12:29,670 --> 00:12:32,050
The idea of being unroped,
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00:12:32,050 --> 00:12:37,260
just having your fingertips and your toes
smearing up this slippery granite is like,
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00:12:37,270 --> 00:12:39,020
the scariest thing you can imagine.
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00:12:39,020 --> 00:12:41,560
And to Alex, that's no big deal.
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00:12:41,560 --> 00:12:42,810
Like how does that work?
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00:12:42,810 --> 00:12:48,480
We all know Alex is super bold but his
other climbing that he does is badass too.
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00:12:49,400 --> 00:12:52,320
Alex and Hans Florine made the
speed record in the Nose.
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00:12:52,320 --> 00:12:55,160
3000 feet in 2 and a half hours.
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00:12:56,120 --> 00:12:59,790
That's the kind of skills you would have to
employ to do something like the Fitz Traverse.
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00:13:00,750 --> 00:13:03,420
Honnold: Tommy has put up some of
the hardest routes in the country.
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00:13:03,420 --> 00:13:06,460
I've been reading news stories about
his climbing since I was a little kid.
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00:13:06,460 --> 00:13:09,170
And so I just thought of
him as some climbing god.
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00:13:09,920 --> 00:13:13,430
Caldwell: Alex asked me to climb
this triple linkup here in Yosemite
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00:13:13,430 --> 00:13:16,350
where we free climbed El Cap Half
Dome and Mt. Watkins in a day.
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00:13:17,470 --> 00:13:20,270
And I hadn't really climbed with
Alex much at all before that.
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00:13:20,270 --> 00:13:23,270
And it was kind of a test
for the Fitz Traverse.
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00:13:23,270 --> 00:13:26,480
You know Alex is so bold that I thought
maybe we'd just fall to our death,
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00:13:26,480 --> 00:13:31,940
but it turns out that his boldness
makes him incredible efficient.
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00:13:31,940 --> 00:13:36,030
He can run up huge chunks
of rock in no time at all.
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00:13:37,370 --> 00:13:38,700
Honnold: Yay.
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00:13:38,790 --> 00:13:42,250
Caldwell: Climbing that fast there's
obviously a huge element of risk,
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00:13:42,250 --> 00:13:46,460
but Alex has this confidence
that is totally contagious.
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00:13:46,460 --> 00:13:49,710
When I'm climbing with him I just
believe that I'm not gonna fall.
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00:13:49,710 --> 00:13:51,170
It's like a drug.
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00:13:51,210 --> 00:13:53,300
Honnold: I'm not like encouraging
him to take more risk.
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00:13:53,300 --> 00:13:57,050
I'm just sort of giving him a glimpse of like what
you get to do when you do take a little risk.
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00:13:58,810 --> 00:14:04,310
Caldwell: We climbed the 3 biggest
features in Yosemite in under 24 hours.
208
00:14:04,310 --> 00:14:06,480
Honnold: Dude that was off the hook.
209
00:14:06,480 --> 00:14:07,810
Caldwell: Good work.
210
00:14:07,810 --> 00:14:10,820
Honnold: I mean to free climb 7000
feet of granite in a single day.
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00:14:10,820 --> 00:14:14,490
Caldwell: It's hard to say no
after you've experienced that.
212
00:14:14,700 --> 00:14:17,410
Honnold: He was like wow
we should do this more.
213
00:14:17,410 --> 00:14:20,410
You know this is pretty fun.
214
00:14:20,410 --> 00:14:22,830
Caldwell: Something kind of clicked. I
was like this is what it would take.
215
00:14:22,830 --> 00:14:25,160
Honnold: Tommy told me that he
wanted to climb the Fitz Traverse.
216
00:14:25,160 --> 00:14:27,330
I didn't even know what that means exactly.
217
00:14:27,750 --> 00:14:31,130
Caldwell: The one thing that he's
not is an experienced alpinist.
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00:14:32,550 --> 00:14:35,880
never had much interest in alpine climbing.
I don't know how to use ice tools.
219
00:14:35,880 --> 00:14:39,850
I don't like being cold. But if Tommy says
we can do it I'm willing to go with him.
220
00:14:39,850 --> 00:14:42,270
I mean how bad can it be?
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00:14:56,700 --> 00:14:59,910
Caldwell: El Chalten is the town
at the base of the Fitz Roy range.
222
00:14:59,910 --> 00:15:03,660
When you arrive in the town
you see climbers everywhere.
223
00:15:04,950 --> 00:15:09,210
It's like Camp 4 in South America for
really hardcore alpine climbers.
224
00:15:09,790 --> 00:15:14,670
Cordes: Every season the eyes of the
alpine climbing world focus on Patagonia.
225
00:15:14,670 --> 00:15:17,510
Everybody's got their objectives.
226
00:15:21,300 --> 00:15:24,470
Climber: A lot of precip
coming to visit us tomorrow.
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00:15:24,470 --> 00:15:27,430
Lama: Just a couple of days
where it's not stormy,
228
00:15:27,440 --> 00:15:30,770
where the conditions are
good so we can go up
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00:15:30,770 --> 00:15:34,480
and climb the mountains quick and
come down within the window.
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00:15:34,480 --> 00:15:36,570
Lempe: Really windy!
231
00:15:36,990 --> 00:15:39,860
Caldwell: This year everybody we had
talked to said the weather had sucked.
232
00:15:39,860 --> 00:15:42,030
The mountains were covered in rime.
233
00:15:42,910 --> 00:15:49,330
Haley: I hadn't put rock shoes on a single day
in the mountains in 3 months of being here.
234
00:15:49,750 --> 00:15:51,830
Climber: Lot of snow and ice.
235
00:15:51,830 --> 00:15:55,000
Trying to stay in shape for when the weather does get good.
236
00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:57,510
Hopefully we'll all be
ready to get out there.
237
00:15:57,510 --> 00:15:59,010
Lama: All the climbers are hanging out
238
00:15:59,010 --> 00:16:02,140
constantly talking about
when are you going up?
239
00:16:02,140 --> 00:16:03,890
Which mountain are you gonna try?
240
00:16:05,930 --> 00:16:08,430
Becca Caldwell: So what do you
guys think you're gonna climb?
241
00:16:08,430 --> 00:16:10,770
It's a little wintry in the mountains.
242
00:16:10,770 --> 00:16:12,480
Caldwell: Something snowy probably.
243
00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:14,650
We're gonna turn into alpine climbers
244
00:16:14,650 --> 00:16:18,530
California rock climbers.
See how that goes.
245
00:16:19,490 --> 00:16:22,740
Honnold: I know how it's gonna go for me.
Not that well.
246
00:16:22,870 --> 00:16:24,990
Caldwell: This year I decided
to bring my whole family.
247
00:16:24,990 --> 00:16:29,210
I couldn't really imagine being
away from them for a month.
248
00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:34,790
So what do you think of this Alex?
249
00:16:38,300 --> 00:16:41,970
Honnold: I can't wait to have a child.
(laughs)
250
00:16:41,970 --> 00:16:46,600
Caldwell: I named my son Fitz after the mountain
because this place has been so special to me.
251
00:16:51,890 --> 00:16:54,560
Honnold: Staying with Tommy and
his wife Becca and his baby,
252
00:16:54,560 --> 00:16:56,270
it's kind of a weird scene.
253
00:16:56,270 --> 00:16:59,990
I definitely have not hung out with
babies a lot before this trip.
254
00:17:03,820 --> 00:17:05,120
It's funny that Tommy's
like a cutting-edge climber
255
00:17:05,120 --> 00:17:07,950
but then he spends the majority
of his time as like a family man.
256
00:17:07,950 --> 00:17:09,790
Like taking care of the kid.
257
00:17:09,790 --> 00:17:12,120
I don't understand how he has the energy.
258
00:17:12,580 --> 00:17:16,840
Caldwell: Having my family down here
with me definitely gives me pause.
259
00:17:16,840 --> 00:17:19,050
I'm trying to figure out that balance
260
00:17:19,050 --> 00:17:23,220
to push myself as a climber and still
be a good husband and a father.
261
00:17:23,220 --> 00:17:26,510
As we're waiting for the
weather to clear in El Chalten
262
00:17:26,510 --> 00:17:28,560
we learned that we had some competition.
263
00:17:28,560 --> 00:17:32,850
Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley were
gonna try the Fitz Traverse as well.
264
00:17:32,850 --> 00:17:38,020
Rolo and Colin are the Patagonia experts.
Rolo wrote the guidebook.
265
00:17:38,230 --> 00:17:40,230
Cordes: He's the king of Patagonia.
266
00:17:40,230 --> 00:17:43,900
Caldwell: And one of his dreams
was to climb the Fitz Traverse.
267
00:17:43,910 --> 00:17:45,950
Garibotti: How would you not
want to try a skyline like that?
268
00:17:45,950 --> 00:17:48,240
I mean you see it and
it's just the only thing.
269
00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:50,080
Oh yeah I want to go up
and down all that thing.
270
00:17:50,790 --> 00:17:54,420
Cordes: Colin Haley, in recent years, he's
the most accomplished Patagonian climber.
271
00:17:54,620 --> 00:17:59,170
Haley: The Fitz Traverse was
like the next clear prize.
272
00:17:59,170 --> 00:18:01,670
Rolo and I tried it twice together.
273
00:18:01,880 --> 00:18:03,760
Garibotti: Both times
we didn't get very far.
274
00:18:03,970 --> 00:18:07,890
Haley: I thought that Tommy and Alex
had a good chance of pulling it off.
275
00:18:07,890 --> 00:18:12,390
And I definitely thought that Rolo and I
had a good chance of pulling it off also.
276
00:18:12,390 --> 00:18:15,440
Obviously all of us would have
liked to pull it off first.
277
00:18:15,480 --> 00:18:17,110
Honnold: All it takes is
one good weather window.
278
00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:21,780
The whole weather forecasting
thing is a bit beyond me.
279
00:18:21,780 --> 00:18:23,690
This means it's gonna be awesome.
280
00:18:23,700 --> 00:18:26,450
This right here means that
we're gonna send the gnar.
281
00:18:27,410 --> 00:18:29,200
Caldwell: The pressure
is just skyrocketing.
282
00:18:29,200 --> 00:18:31,910
10/20 is supposed to be
good, really good weather.
283
00:18:31,910 --> 00:18:35,080
Finally this weather window started
to show up on the forecast.
284
00:18:35,080 --> 00:18:39,000
Haley: 5 and a half or 6 amazing
days of perfect weather.
285
00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:40,710
Caldwell: Everybody gets excited.
286
00:18:42,760 --> 00:18:46,090
Honnold: The people are like, oh that's
such a big window! It's gonna be so epic!
287
00:18:46,090 --> 00:18:49,140
Caldwell: This never happens. We gotta go!
We better go big!
288
00:18:49,140 --> 00:18:52,720
Haley: It was definitely the
opportunity to try the Fitz Traverse.
289
00:18:52,720 --> 00:18:54,680
Caldwell: Headlamps... here we go.
290
00:18:54,680 --> 00:18:57,890
Honnold: These things
weigh 1.2 pounds each.
291
00:18:57,900 --> 00:18:59,690
Garibotti: I think the crux of
the traverse is logistical.
292
00:18:59,690 --> 00:19:02,980
Knowing how to sleep night
after night on a climb.
293
00:19:02,980 --> 00:19:07,240
Knowing how much food to carry and
not one gram more or one gram less.
294
00:19:07,240 --> 00:19:09,360
Yeah it might be quite
tricky for Alex and Tommy.
295
00:19:09,370 --> 00:19:13,200
Two people with a lot of skills
and not that much know-how.
296
00:19:14,620 --> 00:19:18,710
Caldwell: Potato chips. Crunch.
297
00:19:18,710 --> 00:19:21,460
Honnold: Those breakfasts look really good.
Oatmeal with mixed nuts and raisins and bananas.
298
00:19:21,460 --> 00:19:24,250
Caldwell: The one advantage
that me and Alex have is that
299
00:19:24,260 --> 00:19:27,720
we'll be able to climb the long
sections of clean rock really fast.
300
00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:32,310
Honnold: This is like not bad for bad for climbing
easy terrain. Just depends how easy it is.
301
00:19:34,850 --> 00:19:39,770
Bye little Fitzy.
302
00:19:39,770 --> 00:19:40,770
Caldwell: Miss you buddy.
303
00:19:40,770 --> 00:19:45,780
I have this big conflict now that
I have a loving wife and kid.
304
00:19:45,780 --> 00:19:50,410
I feel like doing things that could
potentially kill me is really selfish.
305
00:19:50,740 --> 00:19:53,790
Gonna go climb your mountain. Hopefully.
306
00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:56,500
Becca Caldwell: Make
sure you take pictures.
307
00:19:56,660 --> 00:19:57,660
It's a beautiful day.
308
00:19:58,710 --> 00:20:00,370
Beautiful day for sending.
309
00:20:00,380 --> 00:20:01,250
Honnold: Awesome.
310
00:20:01,250 --> 00:20:02,250
Becca Caldwell: Awesome.
311
00:20:02,250 --> 00:20:04,170
Caldwell: But I love this life,
312
00:20:04,170 --> 00:20:06,550
going into the mountains and
doing adventurous things,
313
00:20:06,550 --> 00:20:08,840
that makes me who I am.
314
00:20:08,840 --> 00:20:11,680
Bye, I love you.
315
00:20:11,680 --> 00:20:11,760
Becca: Love you too.
316
00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:13,850
Caldwell: See you soon.
317
00:20:13,850 --> 00:20:15,060
Becca Caldwell : I'm gonna miss you.
318
00:20:15,060 --> 00:20:15,510
Caldwell: I'm gonna miss you too.
319
00:20:15,520 --> 00:20:16,640
Becca Caldwell: Be safe ok?
320
00:20:17,600 --> 00:20:21,060
Caldwell: And I want to show Fitz a
life where you don't live in fear.
321
00:20:21,060 --> 00:20:25,940
Where you're inspired to dream
big and just kind of go for it.
322
00:20:25,940 --> 00:20:30,400
I have convinced myself that
it is possible to go out
323
00:20:30,410 --> 00:20:35,620
and have these really adventurous
experiences and be safe.
324
00:20:35,620 --> 00:20:36,540
Hopefully I'm right.
325
00:20:37,750 --> 00:20:39,830
Caldwell: Wow you can see
the whole ridge right now.
326
00:20:39,830 --> 00:20:41,960
Those mountains look kind of intense.
327
00:20:43,630 --> 00:20:45,960
Honnold: Kind of. They don't look that big.
328
00:20:45,960 --> 00:20:49,800
Caldwell: Little rimed up.
(laughs) They're kind of small.
329
00:20:49,800 --> 00:20:52,550
Honnold: Yeah I mean, take
a couple of hours I guess.
330
00:20:52,550 --> 00:20:54,760
Caldwell: I think those
mountains look pretty intense.
331
00:20:54,760 --> 00:20:55,550
Honnold: Yeah.
332
00:20:55,560 --> 00:20:59,890
Caldwell: I didn't have too many concerns with
Alex except for that he might see all the snow
333
00:20:59,890 --> 00:21:02,060
and be like screw it I don't
want to deal with this.
334
00:21:02,810 --> 00:21:05,110
The north faces are pretty
plastered with snow.
335
00:21:05,110 --> 00:21:08,650
Honnold: I just can't get over
how gnarly it looks here.
336
00:21:08,650 --> 00:21:11,650
Caldwell: It's gonna suck because we're
gonna be like waist-deep in slog.
337
00:21:11,650 --> 00:21:16,370
Honnold: Note to viewers, Tommy will be
waist-deep, I will be behind, filming.
338
00:21:16,370 --> 00:21:19,290
I want to do robot voiceover
for this whole movie.
339
00:21:19,830 --> 00:21:23,120
Honnold: There goes Tommy breaking
trail up a horrible slope.
340
00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:25,670
Caldwell: Got some good
snow conditions going on.
341
00:21:25,670 --> 00:21:27,250
Honnold: Yeah this is a nightmare.
342
00:21:28,250 --> 00:21:30,880
Caldwell: We camped out at
the start of the route.
343
00:21:31,260 --> 00:21:32,260
Caldwell: Day highlights.
344
00:21:32,260 --> 00:21:36,680
Honnold: Probably the most interesting
part of the day was falling in a crevasse.
345
00:21:37,850 --> 00:21:41,310
Caldwell: The worst part of the
day was leaving Becca and Fitz.
346
00:21:41,310 --> 00:21:42,980
Honnold: Aw, you're such a sap.
347
00:21:42,980 --> 00:21:44,940
Caldwell: Yeah, that was the worst part.
348
00:21:44,940 --> 00:21:51,070
Honnold: So, as an older climber, do you feel
like you're losing your edge by having a family?
349
00:21:51,070 --> 00:21:54,360
Caldwell: That's an interesting question.
Your questions are hard.
350
00:21:54,360 --> 00:21:56,160
Honnold: That is a diplomatic
way of saying yes.
351
00:21:56,160 --> 00:21:58,530
Caldwell: I'll tell you after
this traverse I guess.
352
00:21:58,530 --> 00:21:59,700
Honnold: I guess we'll see.
353
00:21:59,700 --> 00:22:03,160
Caldwell: Yet to be determined. So
far, it seems pretty much the same.
354
00:22:03,160 --> 00:22:08,290
Cause I never was trying to kill myself in the
first place. I'm still not trying to kill myself.
355
00:22:08,290 --> 00:22:13,300
Honnold: Yeah, safety first.
356
00:22:13,300 --> 00:22:17,300
Caldwell: I'm pretty stoked to
race for the Fitz Roy range.
357
00:22:17,300 --> 00:22:19,300
Honnold: Yeah, this is actually
gonna be kind of classic.
358
00:22:19,310 --> 00:22:22,930
Caldwell: We felt like such gumbies
compared to Rolo and Colin.
359
00:22:22,930 --> 00:22:25,890
Haley: Tommy knows what he's doing
in the mountains pretty well.
360
00:22:25,900 --> 00:22:27,600
Caldwell: We are snow climbers.
361
00:22:27,610 --> 00:22:31,320
Haley: Alex... barely at all.
362
00:22:31,320 --> 00:22:36,410
They're kind of bumbling along in
terms of alpine climbing skills.
363
00:22:36,410 --> 00:22:39,910
Honnold: This is what it takes
to practice extreme alpinism.
364
00:22:39,910 --> 00:22:41,740
Caldwell: We show up at the base.
365
00:22:41,740 --> 00:22:45,910
Alex had brought the wrong kind of crampon.
366
00:22:45,920 --> 00:22:48,420
Caldwell: His crampon was made
to clip onto a mountain boot
367
00:22:48,420 --> 00:22:50,420
and all we had were Gore-Tex tennis shoes.
368
00:22:50,420 --> 00:22:52,340
Honnold: I wouldn't know the difference.
369
00:22:52,340 --> 00:22:55,340
Caldwell: It was gonna be really difficult
potentially a little dangerous.
370
00:22:55,340 --> 00:22:58,760
There was a good chance his crampons
were just gonna fall right off.
371
00:22:59,680 --> 00:23:02,930
Haley: We ran into Tommy and Alex
at the start of the Fitz Traverse.
372
00:23:02,930 --> 00:23:05,640
We chatted with them for a few
minutes and then started up.
373
00:23:06,100 --> 00:23:09,810
Caldwell: They started up a big snow gully.
374
00:23:09,810 --> 00:23:11,860
Race to the summit!
375
00:23:12,360 --> 00:23:15,530
Being rock climbers we did the
steep technical rock climb.
376
00:23:15,530 --> 00:23:16,320
Honnold: Bye.
377
00:23:16,320 --> 00:23:17,070
Caldwell: Climbing the mountain.
378
00:23:17,070 --> 00:23:18,740
Honnold: Climbing the mountain.
379
00:23:19,450 --> 00:23:22,950
Caldwell: You're not on belay by the way.
380
00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:28,370
We just didn't even know what to expect.
381
00:23:28,370 --> 00:23:31,130
Alex is climbing with an ice
tool clipped to his harness.
382
00:23:31,130 --> 00:23:36,090
Honnold: The conditions on the first day were
like, they seemed pretty bad, I don't know.
383
00:23:40,970 --> 00:23:44,390
Caldwell: Just chopping ice out of all
the cracks as we tried to climb 'em.
384
00:23:44,390 --> 00:23:46,020
Honnold: It was kind of scary.
385
00:23:46,020 --> 00:23:49,850
Like wow this is a far cry from
Yosemite in the summer you know?
386
00:23:52,110 --> 00:23:57,860
Felt like casting adrift in the ocean of rock.
You're just like who knows where we're going.
387
00:23:58,990 --> 00:24:02,410
Oh yeah Tommy. How was that pitch?
388
00:24:02,410 --> 00:24:04,740
Caldwell: My hand's bleeding,
my jacket's full of holes.
389
00:24:04,740 --> 00:24:07,500
Honnold: Here we are our typical
alpine anchor. We got our one piece.
390
00:24:07,500 --> 00:24:12,000
We got our big slung horn thing which had
actually fallen off when I got here.
391
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:15,050
but I put back on. And we called it bomber.
392
00:24:15,050 --> 00:24:20,260
Let's see how do I zoom? How do you zoom
on this thing? Do you turn the lens?
393
00:24:20,430 --> 00:24:21,430
Caldwell: That doesn't do much.
394
00:24:21,430 --> 00:24:24,140
Honnold: Oh I see, oh yeah it barely zooms.
395
00:24:24,140 --> 00:24:27,970
That was a pathetic little zoom.
I'm getting a detail shot.
396
00:24:27,980 --> 00:24:32,020
Oh yeah. Actually this is just
a groin shot. I like that.
397
00:24:32,020 --> 00:24:33,560
Caldwell: You love the groin shots.
398
00:24:33,690 --> 00:24:36,570
Honnold: This is no place for joking dude.
This is extreme alpinism.
399
00:24:36,570 --> 00:24:39,900
Ice tool, normal piece of the rack.
Quite a bummer.
400
00:24:39,900 --> 00:24:45,450
A 35 year old locking biner. That
locker is probably your dad's.
401
00:24:45,450 --> 00:24:46,080
Caldwell: It was my dad's.
402
00:24:46,080 --> 00:24:48,200
Honnold: Oh was it? There you go?
403
00:24:48,200 --> 00:24:49,410
Caldwell: Yeah. I like it though.
404
00:24:51,620 --> 00:24:56,880
Honnold: I'm gonna try zooming in as
you masticate. Oh that is oh my gosh.
405
00:24:56,880 --> 00:24:59,170
I'm starting to feel somewhat artistic.
406
00:24:59,510 --> 00:25:01,880
Caldwell: As I masticate?
That's how you say it?
407
00:25:01,880 --> 00:25:04,140
Honnold: Yeah, as you masticate.
I like that word.
408
00:25:04,140 --> 00:25:08,220
Caldwell: I don't know if I want
you to video me masticating.
409
00:25:08,220 --> 00:25:11,270
Honnold: I think people want to see
things go in your mouth like that.
410
00:25:13,060 --> 00:25:16,110
Caldwell: Huh, I wonder where we go across.
Maybe just right here huh?
411
00:25:16,440 --> 00:25:19,610
Honnold: Yeah I think you just quest along to
this little thing and then you're in the corner.
412
00:25:19,610 --> 00:25:22,900
Caldwell: Of course you don't
think it looks extreme.
413
00:25:22,910 --> 00:25:26,740
You don't think anything looks big or hard.
414
00:25:27,830 --> 00:25:30,250
Honnold: Boy, that looks run out Tommy.
415
00:25:30,660 --> 00:25:32,460
Caldwell: Yeah, this sucks.
416
00:25:32,460 --> 00:25:35,920
Honnold: It's like at least 3
meters back to the anchor.
417
00:25:35,920 --> 00:25:37,420
Caldwell: You're not even belaying me.
418
00:25:37,420 --> 00:25:42,130
Honnold: Yeah I am! Hands-free dude.
Belaying.
419
00:25:42,130 --> 00:25:46,850
Your ice axe is silhouetted against the
skyline and it's like pretty epic.
420
00:25:46,850 --> 00:25:48,680
You definitely look like an alpinist.
421
00:25:52,060 --> 00:25:54,850
Caldwell: We thought Colin and
Rolo were far ahead of us,
422
00:25:54,850 --> 00:25:58,520
but as we neared the top of Guillaumet
they were just sitting on a ledge.
423
00:25:58,520 --> 00:26:01,110
Haley: Rolo was feeling super
sick and that was it for us.
424
00:26:01,110 --> 00:26:02,030
Garibotti: We had to go down.
425
00:26:02,030 --> 00:26:06,070
Haley: We knew that Alex had these
crampons that really weren't gonna work
426
00:26:06,070 --> 00:26:07,620
and they were just gonna try anyways.
427
00:26:07,620 --> 00:26:11,580
Caldwell: Before they went down Rolo
actually took off his own crampons
428
00:26:11,580 --> 00:26:12,290
and gave them to Alex.
429
00:26:12,290 --> 00:26:14,460
Which was a giant gesture.
430
00:26:14,460 --> 00:26:17,290
Honnold: For Rolo to just basically give
up his dream of doing the Fitz Traverse,
431
00:26:17,290 --> 00:26:20,210
and then give me the tools that
I need to finish the traverse,
432
00:26:20,210 --> 00:26:22,210
you know I mean that's very big of him.
433
00:26:22,220 --> 00:26:24,010
Garibotti: We offered
them a bunch of water and
434
00:26:24,010 --> 00:26:26,640
basically gave them a hand
in whatever we could.
435
00:26:26,640 --> 00:26:29,600
Our small participation in their traverse.
436
00:26:29,600 --> 00:26:33,020
Our small contribution
is a pair of crampons.
437
00:26:33,600 --> 00:26:37,560
I'm psyched. I mean these are the two most capable
rock climbers in the world at the moment.
438
00:26:37,560 --> 00:26:41,570
With their level of skill they
can more than make up for
439
00:26:41,570 --> 00:26:46,410
all their little missteps in terms of
logistical preparation and equipment.
440
00:26:46,990 --> 00:26:48,240
Caldwell: Yeah!
441
00:26:53,910 --> 00:26:57,250
Honnold: It took us 2 and a half hours to summit
Guillaument. The beginning of the traverse.
442
00:26:57,250 --> 00:26:58,670
Caldwell: Yeah a little bit of ice mining.
443
00:26:58,670 --> 00:27:01,340
Honnold: Yeah which isn't so bad
considering it's pretty snowy.
444
00:27:01,340 --> 00:27:03,170
Caldwell: It is absolutely gorgeous.
445
00:27:03,170 --> 00:27:04,420
Honnold: Yeah this is amazing.
446
00:27:04,420 --> 00:27:06,050
Caldwell: No wind. Check out our view.
447
00:27:06,050 --> 00:27:07,010
Honnold: So stoked.
448
00:27:07,010 --> 00:27:08,800
Caldwell: That's Fitz.
449
00:27:08,800 --> 00:27:11,600
That is Pier Giorgio I guess.
Just learned from Rolo.
450
00:27:11,600 --> 00:27:13,310
Honnold: Oh there's Cerro Torre dude.
451
00:27:13,310 --> 00:27:14,930
Caldwell: Oh yeah there's
Cerro Torre. ahhh!!
452
00:27:14,930 --> 00:27:19,230
Honnold: This is so sick. Shabam. Ice.
453
00:27:19,230 --> 00:27:22,110
Caldwell: After the summit of Guillaument
454
00:27:22,110 --> 00:27:25,440
that part of the ridge you just have
all these little fingers sticking up
455
00:27:25,450 --> 00:27:29,200
and you're kind of weaving around 'em and
you're going up on top of some of 'em.
456
00:27:29,200 --> 00:27:35,290
Look off the sides and look for leges that you
have to then rappel down to and traverse across.
457
00:27:35,290 --> 00:27:40,000
It's really, really a huge
routefinding challenge.
458
00:27:42,550 --> 00:27:45,050
Honnold: There's Tommy sending the gnar.
459
00:27:45,300 --> 00:27:47,420
Caldwell: Whoah you look
so gorgeous right now.
460
00:27:47,430 --> 00:27:48,720
Honnold: I feel so gorgeous.
461
00:27:51,970 --> 00:27:55,020
Caldwell: We got to the summit of Mermoz
and there was this beautiful bivvy spot
462
00:27:55,020 --> 00:27:56,730
that someone had built
with all these rocks.
463
00:27:56,730 --> 00:28:00,310
Caldwell: Check this bivvy spot out. Woooh!
464
00:28:00,310 --> 00:28:01,560
Honnold: So amazing!
465
00:28:06,650 --> 00:28:11,490
Honnold: Yeah but considering conditions.
Considering like how icy the route is I mean,
466
00:28:11,490 --> 00:28:14,700
I'd say this is going pretty well.
467
00:28:14,700 --> 00:28:15,370
Caldwell: Yeah.
468
00:28:15,370 --> 00:28:21,750
Caldwell: I feel like you're a great partner because
the most important thing is morale is high.
469
00:28:21,750 --> 00:28:24,840
A lot of people would be when they're
intimidated they just get scared
470
00:28:24,840 --> 00:28:25,880
and they want to go down.
471
00:28:25,880 --> 00:28:27,710
Honnold: Well I am quite scared.
472
00:28:27,720 --> 00:28:31,970
And you know why? Cause of this.
OK what are you doing right now.
473
00:28:31,970 --> 00:28:33,850
Caldwell: I'm building our
little anchor for the night.
474
00:28:33,850 --> 00:28:36,890
Honnold: Is that because our
tent is on a 45 degree slope
475
00:28:36,890 --> 00:28:38,350
hanging on the edge of a huge mountain?
476
00:28:38,350 --> 00:28:39,020
Caldwell: Yep.
477
00:28:39,020 --> 00:28:40,730
Honnold: This is gonna be so rad dude.
478
00:28:40,730 --> 00:28:42,440
This is the kind of thing I
see in Alpinist Magazine
479
00:28:42,440 --> 00:28:44,230
except we're actually doing it.
480
00:28:44,480 --> 00:28:47,730
Honnold: Mermoz is right there and
it took us 3 hours to get over here.
481
00:28:47,740 --> 00:28:50,360
Fuck! Alpinism is retarded.
482
00:28:50,570 --> 00:28:53,740
Caldwell: And North Pillar doesn't
look that close from here really.
483
00:28:53,740 --> 00:28:57,660
Honnold: And then 3000 feet of rock
climbing and then the summit of Fitz.
484
00:28:57,660 --> 00:28:59,750
So we definitely were trying
to go as light as possible.
485
00:28:59,750 --> 00:29:01,790
Caldwell: We only had 1 sleeping bag.
486
00:29:01,790 --> 00:29:03,960
Honnold: Like shared the bag
and stayed warm or whatever.
487
00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:05,960
Caldwell: So psyched Alex.
488
00:29:05,960 --> 00:29:07,460
Honnold: I'm so fired up.
489
00:29:07,460 --> 00:29:11,880
Caldwell: But no sleeping pads. We just kind of
laid out our ropes and packs and stuff to sleep on.
490
00:29:11,880 --> 00:29:14,640
Honnold: You know I was using my
shoes and my chalk bag as my pillow.
491
00:29:14,640 --> 00:29:17,600
I mean we only slept like 3 hours
so it doesn't really matter.
492
00:29:17,600 --> 00:29:21,190
You just get into the bag and
collapse like a corpse, you know?
493
00:29:26,730 --> 00:29:30,360
Caldwell: About midday the next day we
got to the base of the North Pillar.
494
00:29:30,360 --> 00:29:33,200
It's like 2500 foot wall.
495
00:29:37,910 --> 00:29:41,250
Caldwell: It's a daunting part of the
climb. You look up and it just looks giant.
496
00:29:41,250 --> 00:29:43,250
There's all this rime falling down.
497
00:29:43,250 --> 00:29:45,920
Honnold: Oh, look at that
ice coming down. Whoah.
498
00:29:45,920 --> 00:29:50,510
Caldwell: Alex decided he was gonna climb the
first 12 pitches or something in one block.
499
00:29:50,510 --> 00:29:51,670
Caldwell: That sounds reasonable.
500
00:29:51,670 --> 00:29:53,760
Honnold: Yeah that seems
reasonable huh? Ok.
501
00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:54,550
Caldwell: Alright.
502
00:29:54,550 --> 00:29:54,970
Honnold: Here we go.
503
00:29:54,970 --> 00:29:56,300
Caldwell: Blast off.
504
00:29:56,300 --> 00:30:00,100
Honnold: Note for the record we're both
wearing our tennies with heavy loads.
505
00:30:00,100 --> 00:30:00,970
Let's see how this goes.
506
00:30:00,980 --> 00:30:02,520
Caldwell: We do have our
climbing shoes clipped to us.
507
00:30:02,520 --> 00:30:05,650
Which I've actually only used for
like 3 pitches on this whole thing.
508
00:30:28,130 --> 00:30:30,090
Honnold: Yes, that is a
horrible rime mushroom.
509
00:30:30,090 --> 00:30:32,800
Like daggers of ice hanging
off all over everything.
510
00:30:32,800 --> 00:30:36,890
Caldwell: You mantle on the top of North
Pillar and you're in full-on alpine land.
511
00:30:36,890 --> 00:30:39,430
There's just rime coating everything.
512
00:30:39,430 --> 00:30:41,350
Honnold: Ok so what did we just do Tommy?
513
00:30:41,350 --> 00:30:44,100
Caldwell: We just climbed the North
Pillar which was icy and wet.
514
00:30:44,100 --> 00:30:47,980
We did it in 3 pitches.
Which is pretty crazy.
515
00:30:47,980 --> 00:30:49,230
Honnold: Cause we're bosses.
516
00:30:49,230 --> 00:30:52,940
Caldwell: Alex did like a 2000 foot pitch.
I did like a 500 foot pitch.
517
00:30:52,940 --> 00:30:57,240
And then you did like another
thousand foot pitch.
518
00:30:57,450 --> 00:31:00,870
Honnold: And now we're pooped
and we're covered in snow.
519
00:31:01,410 --> 00:31:03,200
Caldwell: And we're gonna climb that...
520
00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:06,040
Honnold: Oh wow, dude, check out
the frickin uh, the shadow!
521
00:31:06,040 --> 00:31:09,790
Can you see, that's, we're on top of the North
Pillar, we're about to climb to actual summit.
522
00:31:09,790 --> 00:31:11,090
That is cool.
523
00:31:12,010 --> 00:31:15,880
Caldwell: The upper headwall of
Fitz Roy just looked horrible.
524
00:31:15,880 --> 00:31:18,680
Honnold: Oh just look at this
intimidating ice thing. Can you see?
525
00:31:18,680 --> 00:31:23,390
Ok so that's our route.
It's as shitty as it looks.
526
00:31:23,390 --> 00:31:27,190
Caldwell: Super scary, really wet,
there's like a waterfall coming down.
527
00:31:27,190 --> 00:31:29,230
There's ice falling all over the place.
528
00:31:29,230 --> 00:31:33,400
I looked up there and I was like, I think we're
done, I think we've gotta turn around right now.
529
00:31:33,400 --> 00:31:36,860
And Alex was like,what are you
talking about dude, you've got this.
530
00:31:36,860 --> 00:31:40,200
Honnold: It did look like an abomination.
But it was Tommy's lead.
531
00:31:40,700 --> 00:31:42,410
Caldwell: Or maybe you can keep these.
532
00:31:42,410 --> 00:31:44,750
Honnold: So I was like ah, Tommy you
know, I'm sure you'll be great,
533
00:31:44,750 --> 00:31:47,830
just go over there and try your best!
534
00:31:47,830 --> 00:31:50,960
Honnold: Tommy's about to aid it through
the night because he's a total boss.
535
00:31:51,290 --> 00:31:54,460
Caldwell: Alex really has no
idea what he's talking about.
536
00:31:54,460 --> 00:31:57,800
He doesn't know how to walk on snow,
he brought the wrong crampons,
537
00:31:57,800 --> 00:32:01,850
he's looking up this face that's covered in
ice and telling me that it's no big deal.
538
00:32:01,850 --> 00:32:04,430
He's definitely not
offering to lead it though.
539
00:32:04,430 --> 00:32:07,390
Caldwell: Yeah I'm a little
intimidated at the moment honestly.
540
00:32:07,390 --> 00:32:11,560
Honnold: Yeah don't worry about it though you're
a total boss. This is gonna be so cash for you.
541
00:32:11,560 --> 00:32:12,610
This is our gong show.
542
00:32:12,610 --> 00:32:15,070
Caldwell: To the death. Don't
tell me wife I said that.
543
00:32:15,070 --> 00:32:18,820
Honnold: I'll tell her that
you were all about safety.
544
00:32:18,820 --> 00:32:22,780
That the only thing that intimidated you about this climb
was that you were worried that it would be too safe.
545
00:32:22,780 --> 00:32:23,990
Caldwell: Yeah.
546
00:32:23,990 --> 00:32:25,660
Honnold: There sure is a lot of snow.
547
00:32:25,660 --> 00:32:27,200
Caldwell: Yes there is.
548
00:32:27,210 --> 00:32:28,330
Honnold: Ok.
549
00:32:28,330 --> 00:32:30,290
Caldwell: Lot of snow.
550
00:32:31,040 --> 00:32:34,340
Caldwell: Right as the sun was going
down, we rappelled down to the notch
551
00:32:34,340 --> 00:32:37,010
between the North Pillar itself
552
00:32:37,010 --> 00:32:39,930
and then the final summit of Fitz Roy.
553
00:32:47,730 --> 00:32:50,690
And I really didn't have any
idea how we were gonna climb it.
554
00:32:50,690 --> 00:32:53,690
I didn't have any experience
climbing that kind of terrain.
555
00:32:55,270 --> 00:32:59,070
We knew this would be the
crux of the whole traverse.
556
00:32:59,070 --> 00:33:03,950
So we put on all of our rain gear and
just ventured into this waterfall.
557
00:33:05,160 --> 00:33:07,830
Honnold: Tommy was just like
aid climbing up a stream.
558
00:33:07,830 --> 00:33:11,040
Caldwell: I got saturated
down to my underwear.
559
00:33:11,040 --> 00:33:14,920
Once we got that wet I was like, well
we really have to keep going now.
560
00:33:14,920 --> 00:33:19,420
My rope was frozen solid, all
my cams wouldn't work anymore.
561
00:33:19,420 --> 00:33:21,550
Honnold: I was like, how
is he not hypothermic.
562
00:33:21,550 --> 00:33:27,720
Caldwell: It was full survival mode. I was chopping
rime off the wall and it was hitting Alex.
563
00:33:27,720 --> 00:33:31,640
Caldwell: In that moment
on the top of Fitz Roy,
564
00:33:31,640 --> 00:33:35,440
I pushed myself over the risk
line that I am willing to accept.
565
00:33:37,730 --> 00:33:45,660
I would like envision Fitz and Becca at home and
I was just like, what are we doing up here?
566
00:33:45,660 --> 00:33:49,950
But then Alex was like, yeah dude!
Just keep going!
567
00:33:50,750 --> 00:33:53,880
Honnold: I was like, thank goodness
it's Tommy up there and not me.
568
00:33:55,750 --> 00:33:59,050
Caldwell: For the next 6
hours we just quested up.
569
00:33:59,050 --> 00:34:01,260
Honnold: Tommy would be
leading with the 1 ice tool,
570
00:34:01,260 --> 00:34:03,220
which would leave me with just my hands,
571
00:34:03,220 --> 00:34:05,890
so I would be using my one finger
in the hole from the ice tool,
572
00:34:05,890 --> 00:34:10,100
or I'd just be like punching my fist into
the snow, or sometimes just clawing at it.
573
00:34:10,100 --> 00:34:13,600
And I was like gripped out of my mind.
574
00:34:17,440 --> 00:34:19,780
Caldwell: When we got onto the
upper slopes of Fitz Roy,
575
00:34:19,780 --> 00:34:23,280
and it was so surreal being
at the top of Fitz Roy,
576
00:34:23,280 --> 00:34:25,700
just felt like you're in
the middle of the stars.
577
00:34:25,700 --> 00:34:34,250
And having been through this really intense
experience, it was pretty magical for me.
578
00:34:39,630 --> 00:34:43,590
Honnold: It's 3 in the morning.
We're eating our pasta dinner on
579
00:34:43,590 --> 00:34:48,180
almost on top of Fitz Roy, in our
little tent, on a snowfield.
580
00:34:48,180 --> 00:34:52,060
Tommy just led an epic thousand
foot block to the summit.
581
00:34:52,060 --> 00:34:56,400
Caldwell: Yeah. Horrible, horrible
conditions. I got soaking wet.
582
00:34:56,400 --> 00:35:00,610
Honnold: Yeah. But then managed to dry in 30
degree temps, which I don't even understand.
583
00:35:00,610 --> 00:35:01,610
Caldwell: Yeah. It's just
because I'm a heater.
584
00:35:01,610 --> 00:35:04,490
Honnold: Had I led that, I definitely
would have perished by pitch 3.
585
00:35:04,490 --> 00:35:08,740
I would have just been
like, oooh, let's rap.
586
00:35:08,740 --> 00:35:12,740
Caldwell: Yep. Alex had to ask me how to
put on crampons at the top of Fitz Roy.
587
00:35:12,750 --> 00:35:14,960
That was a good moment.
588
00:35:14,960 --> 00:35:18,420
Honnold: It was more just verifying
that they were on right.
589
00:35:19,040 --> 00:35:22,500
Caldwell: It was a, uh, it was
a hardcore day, all in all.
590
00:35:22,510 --> 00:35:26,170
Honnold: Pretty much just like one
of my hardest days out, you know?
591
00:35:26,180 --> 00:35:30,010
In terms of like being way
outside my comfort zone.
592
00:35:30,010 --> 00:35:30,640
Caldwell: Yeah.
593
00:35:30,640 --> 00:35:34,810
Honnold: And just like doing this
heinous, oh my god, so snowy.
594
00:35:34,810 --> 00:35:39,350
And then to like simul the
last 500 feet with no ice tool
595
00:35:39,360 --> 00:35:41,980
and like strap-on crampons
that don't really,
596
00:35:41,980 --> 00:35:44,650
I don't think they work
that well, you know?
597
00:35:44,650 --> 00:35:46,780
Caldwell: They're better than no crampons.
598
00:35:46,780 --> 00:35:49,530
Honnold: Well, yeah, for sure. If I had no
crampons, that would've been a dealbreaker.
599
00:35:49,530 --> 00:35:51,780
Caldwell: This is a day
we will not soon forget.
600
00:35:51,780 --> 00:35:57,290
Honnold: Mmm. Yeah. Hopefully
tomorrow is not like it.
601
00:35:57,290 --> 00:35:58,500
Caldwell: Yeah.
602
00:36:03,710 --> 00:36:08,260
Caldwell: We woke up after cuddling
in our sleeping bag for a few hours,
603
00:36:08,260 --> 00:36:09,840
the nights were never that good.
604
00:36:09,840 --> 00:36:13,600
Two dudes in one sleeping bag was
actually not very comfortable at all.
605
00:36:14,930 --> 00:36:17,930
Caldwell: Alex's armpits are sweating
which is nice cause we shivered,
606
00:36:17,940 --> 00:36:19,850
we shivered all night long.
607
00:36:19,850 --> 00:36:25,400
Caldwell: I was hurtin' pretty bad
after that whole Fitz Roy experience.
608
00:36:25,400 --> 00:36:27,190
My fingers are pretty bad.
609
00:36:27,200 --> 00:36:32,660
The skin split away from the underside
of the nails on every single finger.
610
00:36:32,660 --> 00:36:36,330
But we were on the top of Fitz Roy, which
is one of the most awesome places ever.
611
00:36:36,330 --> 00:36:38,870
Caldwell: Pretty epic camp setup, huh?
612
00:36:40,250 --> 00:36:42,580
Honnold: Yep. Can't choose
a more scenic place.
613
00:36:42,590 --> 00:36:44,090
Caldwell: Kind of beautiful.
614
00:36:44,090 --> 00:36:47,260
Caldwell: Even though we're sitting on
the high point of the whole traverse,
615
00:36:47,260 --> 00:36:50,340
after Fitz Roy was the real endurance test.
616
00:36:50,340 --> 00:36:51,930
Honnold: Oh my god, my legs!
617
00:36:51,930 --> 00:36:57,600
Caldwell: We still had a labyrinth of unknown
terrain that had never been climbed.
618
00:36:57,600 --> 00:37:05,190
To go for another 3 days was gonna bring
us to a whole new level, and we knew that.
619
00:37:07,940 --> 00:37:11,780
Honnold: We rappelled off the back side of Fitz
Roy and then we traversed over to Poincenot.
620
00:37:11,950 --> 00:37:14,070
Caldwell: And we were
pretty hammered phsyically.
621
00:37:14,080 --> 00:37:16,240
Honnold: Tommy's fingers
hurt too much to climb.
622
00:37:16,240 --> 00:37:19,710
Caldwell: Luckily Alex was in a little
bit better shape so he took over.
623
00:37:21,620 --> 00:37:24,540
Alex is a beast, there's no doubt about it.
624
00:37:24,540 --> 00:37:28,380
Questing up 5.11 in gloves and a
giant pack with approach shoes on,
625
00:37:28,380 --> 00:37:31,840
most people are gonna pretty intimidated
by that, he doesn't even think twice.
626
00:37:34,510 --> 00:37:37,390
Honnold: At the base of Poincenot, Tommy
handed me the rope and the rack and was like,
627
00:37:37,390 --> 00:37:38,730
get us to the top.
628
00:37:39,850 --> 00:37:42,980
So I led like a 1500 foot
wall in a couple hours.
629
00:37:42,980 --> 00:37:47,480
Caldwell: As long as one person can float
the team at different points, it works out.
630
00:37:48,150 --> 00:37:51,570
We got to the top of Poincenot
right as the sun was going down.
631
00:37:51,900 --> 00:37:54,570
Honnold: We are the summit of Poincenot.
632
00:37:54,570 --> 00:37:55,120
Caldwell: Good work!
633
00:37:55,120 --> 00:37:59,620
Caldwell: Found a bivvy spot and
slept right on top of Poincenot.
634
00:37:59,620 --> 00:38:03,170
Honnold: From there on out, everything started
to getting like a little more ghetto.
635
00:38:04,920 --> 00:38:09,710
Caldwell: You scramble down for a thousand
feet and then you rap another 2000 feet.
636
00:38:09,710 --> 00:38:13,130
There's just loose rock everywhere.
Our rope got stuck.
637
00:38:13,130 --> 00:38:15,220
We had to cut the rope in half.
638
00:38:15,220 --> 00:38:18,180
We did like 40 rappels
or something like that.
639
00:38:18,470 --> 00:38:21,430
Honnold: None of this stuff is
like, AMGA-certified you know?
640
00:38:22,310 --> 00:38:25,350
Honnold: Here's Poincenot,
big wall that we rappelled,
641
00:38:25,360 --> 00:38:27,020
and here we are climbing Rafael.
642
00:38:28,650 --> 00:38:32,280
Honnold: We were very tired.
Very, very tired.
643
00:38:32,280 --> 00:38:33,950
And all of our equipment was destroyed.
644
00:38:33,950 --> 00:38:35,910
Caldwell: Here are my gross toes.
645
00:38:35,910 --> 00:38:36,620
Honnold: Oh my gosh.
646
00:38:36,620 --> 00:38:37,570
Caldwell: Rawr!
647
00:38:37,580 --> 00:38:40,160
Caldwell: It was definitely
a test in pain tolerance.
648
00:38:42,160 --> 00:38:43,790
Honnold: My hands just feel achy.
649
00:38:43,790 --> 00:38:49,130
Caldwell: Yeah. Yeah my hands, my hands
look pretty good actually but....
650
00:38:49,130 --> 00:38:51,210
Honnold: They don't really look
that good, they look real red.
651
00:38:51,210 --> 00:38:52,960
Caldwell: I mean I've had gloves on all
day and it's made them look better.
652
00:38:52,970 --> 00:38:57,180
Honnold: Even your nub looks like it's gonna
split. Oh my god your fingernails look horrible!
653
00:38:57,180 --> 00:39:00,560
Caldwell: That's what, that's why they
hurt so bad! Yes, look at my fingernails.
654
00:39:00,560 --> 00:39:03,020
Honnold: You look like
a hobbit or something.
655
00:39:03,020 --> 00:39:06,190
Filthy, filthy hobbit.
656
00:39:06,190 --> 00:39:09,400
I just want to get into these apricots.
657
00:39:09,400 --> 00:39:11,780
I wish we had like 2 gallons
of lemonade right here.
658
00:39:11,780 --> 00:39:16,570
Caldwell: Everything that we brought
on this climb is now totally trashed.
659
00:39:16,570 --> 00:39:19,570
So let's inventory. Our
tent is full of holes.
660
00:39:19,580 --> 00:39:21,910
I dropped one of my climbing shoes.
661
00:39:21,910 --> 00:39:26,790
My sunglasses are totally broken.
My shoes are falling apart,
662
00:39:26,790 --> 00:39:29,460
and these were new at the
beginning of this trip.
663
00:39:29,460 --> 00:39:30,420
Honnold: I know, we hadn't
even worn them before.
664
00:39:30,420 --> 00:39:34,590
Caldwell: Look at my pants, they're
about to turn into cutoffs.
665
00:39:34,590 --> 00:39:38,550
Our sleeping bag we burnt a big hole in it.
666
00:39:39,760 --> 00:39:43,100
Honnold: My spirits are broken too I think.
I'm pretty sure.
667
00:39:50,230 --> 00:39:53,610
Honnold: This whole traverse is one of the
craziest experiences that I've had climbing.
668
00:39:55,900 --> 00:39:58,990
You know I was so far outside my
comfort zone for so much of it.
669
00:40:01,490 --> 00:40:03,910
Honnold: Lose my crampons.
670
00:40:03,950 --> 00:40:08,580
Honnold: It was cold and it was wet and, you
know, physically I was completely haggard.
671
00:40:09,250 --> 00:40:11,250
Honnold: I'm so thirsty.
672
00:40:11,250 --> 00:40:14,130
Honnold: I was so fatigued, my
vision was blurring in and out,
673
00:40:14,130 --> 00:40:15,840
like I thought I was having
a stroke or something.
674
00:40:18,680 --> 00:40:20,140
Honnold: Now my mouth's really cold.
675
00:40:22,970 --> 00:40:27,180
Caldwell: Alex drastically underestimated
every aspect of this climb.
676
00:40:27,190 --> 00:40:30,940
To see him really challenged was
kind of cool for me in a way.
677
00:40:30,940 --> 00:40:34,690
I was like, wow there's a crack
there in the invincible man.
678
00:40:36,570 --> 00:40:38,150
Honnold: Oh god! Oh!
679
00:40:39,950 --> 00:40:44,580
Caldwell: But, I really couldn't imagine having
a better partner, doing it with anybody else.
680
00:40:44,580 --> 00:40:47,000
You have to keep morale
high when you're suffering,
681
00:40:47,000 --> 00:40:51,040
and I think both of us just
come by that pretty honestly.
682
00:40:52,170 --> 00:40:56,170
Caldwell: Alex thinks that uh, stirring our
polenta with my broken sunglasses is gross,
683
00:40:56,170 --> 00:41:03,010
but I don't know, I feel like licking frozen
condensation off the inside of our tent is even grosser.
684
00:41:04,560 --> 00:41:06,470
Honnold: Mmm. My lips hurt so bad.
685
00:41:09,190 --> 00:41:10,770
Honnold: This is actually
kind of an artistic shot.
686
00:41:10,770 --> 00:41:17,690
You've got your bloody mitt with a taped
up tip, eating polenta with sunglasses!
687
00:41:17,690 --> 00:41:22,570
It was perfectly just tilt the sunglasses
and you're like dude this is pretty ghetto.
688
00:41:28,710 --> 00:41:30,330
Caldwell: The next morning we woke up.
689
00:41:30,330 --> 00:41:33,880
Caldwell: Morning of number 5.
Feeling spry.
690
00:41:33,880 --> 00:41:35,960
Caldwell: You could see the
weather window was closing.
691
00:41:35,960 --> 00:41:38,300
Caldwell: There's Cerro Torre in
the clouds, it's a bit blustery.
692
00:41:38,300 --> 00:41:40,720
Caldwell: Wind had picked up,
feels like things are changing,
693
00:41:40,720 --> 00:41:44,470
but luckily all we have
to do is climb De L's.
694
00:41:44,470 --> 00:41:48,810
Caldwell: After 4 days of intense
climbing and pretty high stress,
695
00:41:48,810 --> 00:41:53,310
it was kind of surreal to be so
near the end of the whole traverse.
696
00:41:53,600 --> 00:41:57,480
Caldwell: Can't believe we're almost done.
What an epic journey.
697
00:41:57,480 --> 00:42:01,740
Caldwell: We just cruised up De L's, getting
to the top and being done with the thing,
698
00:42:01,740 --> 00:42:05,320
I was kind of blown away actually, I
couldn't believe that we had pulled it off.
699
00:42:05,320 --> 00:42:09,120
Caldwell: We're psyched! We finished it!
Woo, on the summit!!
700
00:42:09,120 --> 00:42:14,250
Yeah! Alex is never excited, what the hell,
we just traversed the whole mountain range.
701
00:42:14,250 --> 00:42:16,000
Caldwell: At least, I was psyched.
702
00:42:16,000 --> 00:42:22,800
Owwwwoooo! Alex. Me. Wooooo!
703
00:42:22,800 --> 00:42:27,390
Caldwell: It was one of the more
intense adventures of my life.
704
00:42:27,390 --> 00:42:31,180
And there's a lot of times when I
thought we were in way over our heads.
705
00:42:31,180 --> 00:42:34,480
But that's what makes for
really rich experiences.
706
00:42:35,060 --> 00:42:39,650
Cordes: What those guys did, it,
it's incredible. It's amazing.
707
00:42:39,820 --> 00:42:41,190
Chouinard: I mean it just knocks me out.
708
00:42:41,190 --> 00:42:43,900
Garibotti: Their level of skill
is very, very, very inspiring.
709
00:42:43,910 --> 00:42:49,080
Haley: This is Alex's first climb ever in
Patagonia, which is pretty frickin' rad.
710
00:42:49,830 --> 00:42:53,710
Cordes: I mean, it's a lifetime's
worth of climbing in one outing.
711
00:42:53,710 --> 00:42:58,000
Garibotti: It's impossible not to be really
psyched and to celebrate what they did.
712
00:43:00,510 --> 00:43:04,930
Caldwell: You're looking good, man.
You're looking road-hard.
713
00:43:04,930 --> 00:43:07,720
Honnold: Yeah, I think I
feel ridden hard. Yeah.
714
00:43:09,810 --> 00:43:15,140
Caldwell: This is how I look. In
the mind I feel very happy though.
715
00:43:16,650 --> 00:43:18,440
Honnold: It was super satisfying
to come down here and
716
00:43:18,440 --> 00:43:21,190
get lucky with the weather like that
and just get to climb everything.
717
00:43:21,190 --> 00:43:24,860
But for me it wasn't so much about the
objective or the summits that we climbed,
718
00:43:24,860 --> 00:43:26,700
it was about having an
adventure with Tommy.
719
00:43:26,700 --> 00:43:29,240
Honnold: You're dressed
like Peter Pan right now.
720
00:43:29,240 --> 00:43:32,740
Caldwell: Oh they smell
really, really bad, actually.
721
00:43:32,750 --> 00:43:36,540
Honnold: You're a model. I'm so pooped.
I don't even have you in frame.
722
00:43:36,540 --> 00:43:40,590
I can't even hold this thing.
Oh my gosh I gotta take a nap.
723
00:43:41,090 --> 00:43:42,880
Honnold: Doing the Fitz
Traverse here has sort of like
724
00:43:42,880 --> 00:43:45,170
opened my eyes to the
potential of alpine climbing.
725
00:43:45,170 --> 00:43:49,590
Maybe in like a year I can motivate
to do something like this again.
726
00:43:49,600 --> 00:43:55,060
But I'm definitely never gonna be like an alpinist
who just pursues trips like this all the time.
727
00:43:57,940 --> 00:44:01,570
You know it's just like, so tiring.
728
00:44:03,860 --> 00:44:05,740
Caldwell: We ended up being
out for almost a week.
729
00:44:05,740 --> 00:44:10,120
Fitz and Becca had already flown home
in the meantime back to Colorado,
730
00:44:10,120 --> 00:44:13,870
so, the whole hike out I think I was
walking extra fast because I knew she was
731
00:44:13,870 --> 00:44:15,710
probably sitting at home worrying about me.
732
00:44:17,540 --> 00:44:19,540
We got back into town super haggard.
733
00:44:21,500 --> 00:44:24,550
I was able to call her and
tell her that we'd done it.
734
00:44:26,800 --> 00:44:29,260
When I think about what
we did, this was huge.
735
00:44:29,260 --> 00:44:31,510
This was a moment that I will never forget.
736
00:44:32,310 --> 00:44:36,980
But we were definitely being a bit
more risky than I would love to be.
737
00:44:36,980 --> 00:44:42,230
Especially being a new dad, it makes me wonder
if this kind of climbing is even worth it.
738
00:44:44,940 --> 00:44:48,820
Caldwell: Dear Fitz, sitting
safely now in El Chalten,
739
00:44:48,820 --> 00:44:52,330
pondering the merit of mountain
climbing now that I'm a father,
740
00:44:55,580 --> 00:44:57,410
Risk is selfish.
741
00:44:57,410 --> 00:45:01,790
The biggest tragedy I can imagine is not being
there to see you take your first steps.
742
00:45:03,290 --> 00:45:06,760
But for me, climbing makes
everything else fit into place.
743
00:45:06,760 --> 00:45:10,380
It's what lights the fire,
makes me a dreamer.
744
00:45:10,390 --> 00:45:14,350
The need to battle is built
into the fabric of who we are.
745
00:45:14,350 --> 00:45:15,810
I find my battle on the mountain.
746
00:45:15,810 --> 00:45:20,140
It breathes life into me despite the
risk and fear that reside there.
747
00:45:20,140 --> 00:45:25,520
If I can show you one thing, I hope it
will be to pursue your own chosen struggle
748
00:45:25,530 --> 00:45:33,530
wherever you may find it, with vigor,
optimism, and love. I love you. Daddy.
749
00:46:29,960 --> 00:46:32,080
Crow caws
750
00:46:36,840 --> 00:46:39,260
Crow caws
751
00:47:23,930 --> 00:47:29,310
(parachute opening)
752
00:47:53,370 --> 00:47:56,290
Dean Potter: As a child, I
had always been scattered,
753
00:47:57,460 --> 00:48:01,340
and then as soon as I touched
the rock I found focus.
754
00:48:06,010 --> 00:48:10,430
Really the first place I started
to fit in was Yosemite.
755
00:48:13,560 --> 00:48:17,480
This strange community lived
this out-there lifestyle.
756
00:48:17,480 --> 00:48:20,020
(HOWL!)
757
00:48:29,910 --> 00:48:33,250
As with most young climbers, I
just wanted to prove myself.
758
00:48:34,290 --> 00:48:36,330
To blow doors on what's been done.
759
00:48:48,890 --> 00:48:55,140
Free soloing - that was the ultimate.
Being out there alone with no protection.
760
00:48:57,190 --> 00:49:00,860
Somehow its like the fear
activates the heightened state.
761
00:49:09,570 --> 00:49:13,240
WOOOO!!
762
00:49:16,410 --> 00:49:19,920
With everything I'm doing, I'm
trying to become more free.
763
00:49:23,750 --> 00:49:27,880
Freedom of self-expression is
where huge breakthroughs happen.
764
00:49:40,270 --> 00:49:45,940
Wanting to be more like the birds and fly
- that ultimate expression of freedom.
765
00:49:45,940 --> 00:49:47,610
Baboom!
766
00:49:48,860 --> 00:49:50,700
Park Ranger (On Radio): We got
a base jumper. El Cap Meadow.
767
00:49:52,830 --> 00:49:59,910
Potter: It seems like our country now is so
strapped down with rules, it's ridiculous.
768
00:49:59,920 --> 00:50:00,750
Park Ranger Hi, how are ya?
769
00:50:00,750 --> 00:50:02,130
Potter: Hi, how are you doing?
770
00:50:02,130 --> 00:50:02,960
Park Ranger: Turn off the camera.
771
00:50:02,960 --> 00:50:06,670
Potter: No thank you. How come you're pulling
me over? I think you're harassing me.
772
00:50:06,670 --> 00:50:09,470
You know, sometimes I
can be really intense.
773
00:50:09,470 --> 00:50:11,590
Filmer: Do you guys think Hans is
going to be psyched to come back?
774
00:50:11,590 --> 00:50:15,970
I don't give a fuck about Hans. Want
me to break your camera dude? Go away.
775
00:50:15,970 --> 00:50:16,890
Really um, in your face.
776
00:50:16,890 --> 00:50:20,100
If you're looking at this
tool, I'm not very happy.
777
00:50:20,100 --> 00:50:21,520
And maybe pushing it too far.
778
00:50:21,520 --> 00:50:23,520
The monkeys are sending dude.
779
00:50:26,230 --> 00:50:30,320
But for me, its just about
doing my art and being free!
780
00:50:31,410 --> 00:50:34,620
Jumping the spire. WAAA! Jumping the spire!
781
00:50:34,620 --> 00:50:36,830
3, 2, 1, See ya!
782
00:50:48,170 --> 00:50:51,470
Oh fuck yeah. Wooo
783
00:50:51,470 --> 00:50:52,970
Nice job on that last one.
784
00:51:07,520 --> 00:51:09,110
WOOO!
785
00:51:10,070 --> 00:51:16,700
I just feel it so strongly, needing to
go towards that unknown and that fear.
786
00:51:16,700 --> 00:51:18,740
My whole body is tingling.
787
00:51:18,740 --> 00:51:22,580
You've got to let go. You've got to relax.
You got to flow. You got to breathe.
788
00:51:24,960 --> 00:51:28,500
And then I break through
into that calm focused,
789
00:51:28,500 --> 00:51:32,220
heightened awareness that
attracts me to all these things.
790
00:51:48,520 --> 00:51:50,440
(parachute opening)
791
00:52:30,130 --> 00:52:34,050
Schulte: When you're climbing
something high into the no-fall zone,
792
00:52:34,050 --> 00:52:38,060
everything goes really quiet.
793
00:52:38,060 --> 00:52:44,350
You're almost moving automatically.
794
00:52:44,350 --> 00:52:51,110
It's a whole different side of me
that I don't come into contact with
795
00:52:51,110 --> 00:52:53,030
unless I'm highballing.
796
00:52:53,030 --> 00:52:54,490
(LAUGHTER)
797
00:52:59,580 --> 00:53:04,580
Williams: It's this primal
instinct that overcomes me.
798
00:53:04,580 --> 00:53:05,710
(SCREAM)
799
00:53:05,710 --> 00:53:08,630
It's like a mother, lifting,
you know, a car off her baby.
800
00:53:08,630 --> 00:53:14,050
I cannot fall right now.
801
00:53:14,050 --> 00:53:16,390
(SCREAM) OH MY GOD!
802
00:53:18,430 --> 00:53:19,770
(SCREAMS)
803
00:53:20,680 --> 00:53:22,180
Webb: I really like highballing because
804
00:53:22,180 --> 00:53:25,480
the lines just tend to look way sicker.
805
00:53:25,480 --> 00:53:27,520
And if I've got to get scared
to get to the top of it
806
00:53:27,520 --> 00:53:29,070
then so be it.
807
00:53:45,080 --> 00:53:47,330
Woods: Dealing with the height,
dealing with the consequences,
808
00:53:47,330 --> 00:53:49,630
dealing with the fear.
809
00:53:49,630 --> 00:53:51,250
Emerson: My mind will just race with
810
00:53:51,250 --> 00:53:53,090
the horrible negative
things that could happen.
811
00:53:58,010 --> 00:53:59,890
Webb: You kind of go into panic mode.
812
00:53:59,890 --> 00:54:02,390
Beall: Everything internally
is just screaming to get down.
813
00:54:02,390 --> 00:54:02,850
(SCREAMS)
814
00:54:02,850 --> 00:54:04,230
Beall: Why am I up here again?
815
00:54:04,230 --> 00:54:07,020
OH MY GOD! (SCREAMS)
816
00:54:07,020 --> 00:54:09,190
Webb: That's when things
start to get out of control.
817
00:54:09,560 --> 00:54:11,190
Hukkataival: Just a recipe for disaster.
818
00:54:13,440 --> 00:54:14,490
AHHHHH!
819
00:54:14,490 --> 00:54:17,360
(GRUNTS)
820
00:54:29,000 --> 00:54:29,790
Spotter: You okay?
821
00:54:30,920 --> 00:54:32,250
Emerson: In the last ten years
822
00:54:32,250 --> 00:54:34,630
the level of bouldering skyrocketed.
823
00:54:34,630 --> 00:54:38,550
Kehl: V10 was huge and now it’s V15, V16.
824
00:54:38,550 --> 00:54:40,260
Emerson: You start to reach a limit as to
825
00:54:40,260 --> 00:54:42,300
how small the hold could actually be.
826
00:54:42,310 --> 00:54:44,390
So the best guys are looking for ways
827
00:54:44,390 --> 00:54:45,930
to push things in a different direction,
828
00:54:45,930 --> 00:54:46,980
and they're looking up.
829
00:54:46,980 --> 00:54:49,850
Traversi: Trying to push the
limit on much higher boulders.
830
00:54:49,860 --> 00:54:51,190
Beall: Huge proud objectives.
831
00:54:51,190 --> 00:54:52,520
Awe-inspiring lines.
832
00:54:52,860 --> 00:54:54,190
Williams: These guys have all proven
833
00:54:54,190 --> 00:54:56,650
that they can climb hard stuff
two feet off the ground.
834
00:54:56,650 --> 00:55:00,030
But who can climb those same moves
thirty feet off the ground?
835
00:55:00,740 --> 00:55:02,370
Traversi: Who is willing to
push themselves the furthest?
836
00:55:02,700 --> 00:55:06,000
Williams: That's the next frontier,
and it's a terrifying frontier.
837
00:55:06,000 --> 00:55:09,080
Woods: All of my fear is
compounded into one boulder.
838
00:55:09,080 --> 00:55:10,500
Woods: I fucking puss'd out.
839
00:55:15,260 --> 00:55:17,970
Traversi: Highball bouldering might
be the hot new thing nowadays
840
00:55:17,970 --> 00:55:19,720
but its been around for quite a while.
841
00:55:19,720 --> 00:55:22,640
Going back to John Gill,
842
00:55:22,640 --> 00:55:25,310
I don't even know how long ago that was.
843
00:55:26,220 --> 00:55:29,520
Sherman: In 1961 I want to say,
844
00:55:29,520 --> 00:55:32,360
John Gill, father of American bouldering,
845
00:55:32,360 --> 00:55:34,980
he did this line up in the
South Dakota Needles.
846
00:55:34,980 --> 00:55:36,860
Sherman: It was tall.
847
00:55:36,860 --> 00:55:38,070
37 feet.
848
00:55:38,070 --> 00:55:39,740
It turned out to be so hard,
849
00:55:39,740 --> 00:55:42,530
it went decades before anybody repeated it.
850
00:55:42,530 --> 00:55:44,950
I did possibly the third or fourth repeat.
851
00:55:44,950 --> 00:55:47,580
You know, you're going to get
really hurt if you fall.
852
00:55:47,580 --> 00:55:50,500
Chuck, you've fallen off
of it, how far is that?
853
00:55:50,500 --> 00:55:52,580
Fryberger: Yeah I mean
it's a pretty bad memory.
854
00:55:52,580 --> 00:55:54,000
I try not to think about it too much.
855
00:55:54,000 --> 00:55:56,920
You know, I'm the guy that
fell off the Thimble.
856
00:55:56,920 --> 00:55:58,670
That's my 15 minutes of fame.
857
00:55:58,670 --> 00:56:02,800
John Sherman brought me to the
Thimble, talked me into it.
858
00:56:02,800 --> 00:56:04,890
Sherman: If you fall, chances
are you're going to live.
859
00:56:04,890 --> 00:56:06,810
You might not climb again.
860
00:56:06,810 --> 00:56:09,480
Fryberger: John Gill did this
thing wearing hiking boots.
861
00:56:09,480 --> 00:56:11,060
I'm thinking to myself,
862
00:56:11,060 --> 00:56:14,440
I'm a stud, I'm fit, let's get it on.
863
00:56:14,440 --> 00:56:18,530
Sherman: Watching him get shut
down on it was fricking cool.
864
00:56:23,280 --> 00:56:24,910
(LAUGHTER)
865
00:56:24,910 --> 00:56:27,080
Fryberger: Eating my knee
pretty hard right there.
866
00:56:27,080 --> 00:56:31,080
Whiplash, dislocated
plates in my vertebrae.
867
00:56:31,080 --> 00:56:36,460
I had a concussion from where
my temple impacted my knee.
868
00:56:36,460 --> 00:56:38,500
One of the lessons that
was most clear to me
869
00:56:38,510 --> 00:56:42,680
is that the old guys were really badass.
870
00:56:45,010 --> 00:56:46,600
Sherman: We used to call
it high bouldering.
871
00:56:46,600 --> 00:56:48,260
Am I good enough to do this?
872
00:56:48,270 --> 00:56:50,430
And if I'm not I'm going to the hospital.
873
00:56:50,430 --> 00:56:51,980
Before we had pads,
874
00:56:51,980 --> 00:56:54,690
we would put a sweater over a rock.
875
00:56:54,690 --> 00:56:56,190
Yeah, that was our padding.
876
00:56:56,190 --> 00:56:59,570
Yeah, I'm kind of beat up from
jumping off all those boulders.
877
00:56:59,570 --> 00:57:01,440
I've got two artificial hips now.
878
00:57:01,450 --> 00:57:05,200
The popularity of bouldering
higher and higher
879
00:57:05,200 --> 00:57:07,910
came with this introduction of pads.
880
00:57:07,910 --> 00:57:09,790
Emerson: Pads started
getting bigger and bigger.
881
00:57:09,790 --> 00:57:12,660
Schulte: Now that we have
all these monstrous pads,
882
00:57:12,660 --> 00:57:15,580
you can go as high as you want to really.
883
00:57:16,000 --> 00:57:16,960
(GRUNTS)
884
00:57:17,670 --> 00:57:18,960
Sherman: I'm just going to say,
885
00:57:18,960 --> 00:57:21,630
yeah we were idiots for not having pads
886
00:57:21,630 --> 00:57:24,010
and the current generation
are pussies for using them.
887
00:57:24,010 --> 00:57:25,840
How's that?
888
00:57:27,350 --> 00:57:29,260
Emerson: Jason Kehl was
one of the first people
889
00:57:29,260 --> 00:57:33,190
who got 10 pads together and did the
first really big, big highballs.
890
00:57:33,520 --> 00:57:35,350
Kehl: I'm coming from a
small town in Maryland
891
00:57:35,350 --> 00:57:37,690
and I wanted to recreate myself.
892
00:57:37,690 --> 00:57:39,440
Make a name for myself.
893
00:57:39,440 --> 00:57:41,780
Do things that people were impressed by.
894
00:57:41,780 --> 00:57:42,780
(SCREAM)
895
00:57:42,780 --> 00:57:44,280
Emerson: He did a problem called Evilution,
896
00:57:44,280 --> 00:57:46,780
one of the first really big, big highballs.
897
00:57:46,780 --> 00:57:47,570
50 feet.
898
00:57:47,700 --> 00:57:50,370
Schulte: That was page one for
hard highball bouldering.
899
00:57:50,410 --> 00:57:52,870
Emerson: But the test piece
of the 21st century highballs
900
00:57:52,870 --> 00:57:54,660
belongs to Nalle Hukkataival.
901
00:57:54,670 --> 00:57:56,870
He did a problem in South
Africa called Livin Large,
902
00:57:56,880 --> 00:57:59,670
and it is gigantic.
903
00:58:01,250 --> 00:58:04,010
It's not just this really
difficult sequence.
904
00:58:05,720 --> 00:58:08,390
It's this difficult sequence
and this huge highball.
905
00:58:09,300 --> 00:58:09,850
(AHH!)
906
00:58:09,850 --> 00:58:11,810
Webb: Not only is it like 30 foot tall,
907
00:58:12,770 --> 00:58:15,390
the holds are really bad,
the feet are really shitty,
908
00:58:15,390 --> 00:58:17,900
and one of the hardest moves
is the move to the lip.
909
00:58:19,690 --> 00:58:20,860
(NOO!)
910
00:58:23,320 --> 00:58:24,940
Hukkataival: You got to be
a good technical climber
911
00:58:24,950 --> 00:58:26,990
and you've got to have
your head game together.
912
00:58:26,990 --> 00:58:29,200
If you lose your mental control,
913
00:58:29,200 --> 00:58:30,580
it's not going to end well.
914
00:58:34,620 --> 00:58:37,460
(AHH!)
915
00:58:37,460 --> 00:58:39,500
Webb: Livin Large was in my opinion
916
00:58:39,500 --> 00:58:41,880
one of the most impressive
things ever done in climbing.
917
00:58:41,880 --> 00:58:43,590
It's insane.
918
00:58:43,590 --> 00:58:44,670
Woods: Everyone was just like
919
00:58:44,670 --> 00:58:48,260
huh, so you're climbing V15 at 30 feet.
920
00:58:48,390 --> 00:58:50,010
Emerson: I think it's been
unrepeated for 6 years.
921
00:58:50,010 --> 00:58:52,180
So many strong people have
tried it and haven't done it.
922
00:58:52,180 --> 00:58:55,680
Nalle, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods
923
00:58:55,680 --> 00:58:57,770
are the best boulderers in the world.
924
00:58:57,770 --> 00:58:59,600
And they're very competitive.
925
00:58:59,600 --> 00:59:03,230
Jimmy and Daniel see Nalle do
this huge 30 foot highball,
926
00:59:03,230 --> 00:59:05,320
and they have to go and try it.
927
00:59:06,320 --> 00:59:09,410
Woods: I'm more used to
like short roofs and stuff,
928
00:59:09,410 --> 00:59:10,320
something safe.
929
00:59:13,450 --> 00:59:16,120
Emerson: Daniel Woods is a
really interesting case.
930
00:59:16,120 --> 00:59:17,960
He’s the strongest boulderer in the world.
931
00:59:17,960 --> 00:59:20,000
He does the hardest first ascents.
932
00:59:20,000 --> 00:59:21,710
Webb: Daniel has been pushing the limits
933
00:59:21,710 --> 00:59:23,750
of hardcore bouldering for years.
934
00:59:23,750 --> 00:59:25,420
(AHHH!)
935
00:59:25,420 --> 00:59:27,920
but um he doesn't necessarily have
936
00:59:27,920 --> 00:59:30,680
the best head for highballs.
937
00:59:30,680 --> 00:59:34,970
He'll do like the most heinously
difficult moves you've ever seen,
938
00:59:34,970 --> 00:59:37,600
and then as soon as he gets
like 20 feet off the ground
939
00:59:37,600 --> 00:59:39,520
he just like freaks out.
940
00:59:41,610 --> 00:59:43,270
Woods: I just want a fucking rope.
941
00:59:46,030 --> 00:59:48,240
Emerson: Nalle and Jimmy
seem to have no fear at all,
942
00:59:48,240 --> 00:59:49,860
and you look at Daniel
943
00:59:49,860 --> 00:59:52,450
and he's like kind of scared
and struggling to keep up.
944
00:59:55,490 --> 00:59:57,370
Woods: I got really scared though.
945
00:59:59,580 --> 01:00:01,830
Woods: Nalle and Jimmy,
946
01:00:01,830 --> 01:00:06,550
their vision of highball
bouldering is crazy.
947
01:00:06,550 --> 01:00:07,550
(AHH!)
948
01:00:08,760 --> 01:00:09,630
Woods: You alright dude?
949
01:00:09,630 --> 01:00:11,050
Webb: I'm fine.
950
01:00:11,050 --> 01:00:13,430
Woods: Oh my god.
951
01:00:13,430 --> 01:00:16,720
Woods: One of the more scared
situations I've spotted.
952
01:00:19,520 --> 01:00:24,270
Woods: Watching Jimmy do something
so bold and dangerous at his max
953
01:00:27,320 --> 01:00:27,980
was inspirational.
954
01:00:29,070 --> 01:00:31,070
Webb: That has got to be the best feeling.
955
01:00:31,950 --> 01:00:33,280
Woods: I was like damn dude,
956
01:00:33,280 --> 01:00:35,370
I need to get my shit together.
957
01:00:35,370 --> 01:00:39,580
I've always been very
intimidated with high things.
958
01:00:39,580 --> 01:00:42,250
I’ve always had not the best head.
959
01:00:42,250 --> 01:00:45,080
And it was something that
I wanted to surpass.
960
01:00:45,090 --> 01:00:47,000
Be able to conquer it you know?
961
01:00:50,050 --> 01:00:52,340
Woods: So, I came out to Bishop
962
01:00:52,340 --> 01:00:55,350
to try to battle that psychological aspect.
963
01:00:58,720 --> 01:01:01,060
Bishop - it's the land of the highballs.
964
01:01:01,060 --> 01:01:09,980
This desert littered with
giant egg-shaped boulders.
965
01:01:09,990 --> 01:01:10,440
(WOO!)
966
01:01:12,490 --> 01:01:14,910
Webb: I think Daniel is realizing
to really push things,
967
01:01:14,910 --> 01:01:16,200
to really push himself,
968
01:01:16,200 --> 01:01:18,120
he has to get higher off the ground.
969
01:01:18,120 --> 01:01:21,540
(SCREAMS)
970
01:01:27,920 --> 01:01:30,050
Emerson: When you drive to
Bishop, the first thing you see
971
01:01:30,050 --> 01:01:31,630
is the Grandpa Peabody Boulder.
972
01:01:31,630 --> 01:01:35,510
It's home to a number of test pieces
including Jason Kehl's Evilution.
973
01:01:35,510 --> 01:01:39,180
But the next step is the bigger
harder face on the right side.
974
01:01:39,180 --> 01:01:43,730
Kehl: I looked at that amazing steep
face but it was definitely futuristic.
975
01:01:43,730 --> 01:01:46,350
Emerson: It's this huge obvious project
that everyone in Bishop knows.
976
01:01:46,360 --> 01:01:48,060
Webb: The big one. The big proud line.
977
01:01:48,070 --> 01:01:51,320
Woods: It's the next level for
hard highball bouldering.
978
01:01:51,320 --> 01:01:53,610
V15+ difficulty.
979
01:01:53,610 --> 01:01:55,320
There's a committing dyno at the end.
980
01:01:55,320 --> 01:01:59,450
And has a no fall zone with V10
climbing in it at the top.
981
01:02:00,580 --> 01:02:03,500
Like with any new climb
labeled as cutting edge,
982
01:02:03,500 --> 01:02:06,870
there's this rush of climbers who go
and try and do it first you know.
983
01:02:06,880 --> 01:02:08,540
Webb: Carlo Traversi was there.
984
01:02:08,540 --> 01:02:11,460
Traversi: I knew it was going to be one of
the hardest boulder problems in the world.
985
01:02:11,460 --> 01:02:13,050
Webb: Daniel Beall was there,
986
01:02:13,050 --> 01:02:15,550
Emerson: a local crusher who's
devoted years to this project.
987
01:02:15,550 --> 01:02:18,010
Beall: I'm 80 or 90 days into
this thing at this point.
988
01:02:18,010 --> 01:02:21,060
I’m just like what do I have to
do to do this fucking climb?
989
01:02:21,060 --> 01:02:23,060
Woods: It's going to be hard and scary.
990
01:02:23,060 --> 01:02:25,430
I don't know if I can do this thing.
991
01:02:25,440 --> 01:02:27,310
I could potentially hurt myself
992
01:02:27,310 --> 01:02:29,190
but it's one of the most badass lines
993
01:02:29,190 --> 01:02:32,110
and if I do want to do these taller things,
994
01:02:32,110 --> 01:02:34,700
I have to get out of my comfort zone.
995
01:02:40,410 --> 01:02:44,870
Woods: The beginning is this
crazy V12 crimp ladder.
996
01:02:44,870 --> 01:02:47,120
Beall: Tiny little glassy crimps.
997
01:02:47,120 --> 01:02:48,460
Traversi: They're extremely sharp.
998
01:02:52,750 --> 01:02:54,920
Beall: You hit this little
ripple, which is awful.
999
01:02:54,920 --> 01:02:57,840
Traversi: And then jump into
a flake behind your head.
1000
01:03:02,060 --> 01:03:04,810
Woods: From there, the two moves
to the lip of the boulder
1001
01:03:04,810 --> 01:03:07,640
are probably in the V14 range.
1002
01:03:08,850 --> 01:03:12,310
Beall: It's impractical to try to work
the upper section from the ground,
1003
01:03:12,320 --> 01:03:16,610
so we ended up bring out a ladder to
work on the jump move to the lip.
1004
01:03:19,990 --> 01:03:23,660
You're 20 feet off the ground at this point. You
have to do a full commitment jump out the roof.
1005
01:03:23,950 --> 01:03:26,790
Woods: You set your foot up and
then you look all the way back,
1006
01:03:26,790 --> 01:03:29,460
and you're like oh my
god, I'm scared shitless.
1007
01:03:31,380 --> 01:03:32,840
Traversi: If you can get to the lip,
1008
01:03:32,840 --> 01:03:36,670
you're staring at a giant headwall
of the top of a 50 foot boulder.
1009
01:03:36,670 --> 01:03:39,340
Beall: You still have a V10
technical section after that.
1010
01:03:39,340 --> 01:03:41,840
If you were to fall off
it could go really badly.
1011
01:03:41,850 --> 01:03:44,560
Webb: It's going to be a nail-biter
to watch people go for that.
1012
01:03:45,560 --> 01:03:46,930
Woods: We're taking heat after heat,
1013
01:03:46,930 --> 01:03:48,430
burns after burns,
1014
01:03:48,440 --> 01:03:50,310
and throwing ourselves at this thing.
1015
01:03:50,310 --> 01:03:51,850
Beall: You know, a competitive environment.
1016
01:03:51,860 --> 01:03:54,780
Traversi: Try and see who's willing
to push themselves the furthest.
1017
01:03:59,450 --> 01:04:04,530
Woods: Whoever does it first will be
entering a new zone in highball bouldering.
1018
01:04:06,450 --> 01:04:08,620
(SCREAMS)
1019
01:04:12,790 --> 01:04:15,710
Sherman: That is what
drives the best climbers.
1020
01:04:15,710 --> 01:04:20,260
Waiting to see who's going to
man-up first and send the thing.
1021
01:04:36,110 --> 01:04:48,490
Spotters: Come on Daniel. Breathe, breathe.
1022
01:04:48,500 --> 01:04:59,970
Come on Dan, stand tall. Stand. Come on.
1023
01:05:04,470 --> 01:05:11,560
Get the hold. Yeah Deep breath.
1024
01:05:18,360 --> 01:05:21,990
Emerson: Daniel was the first one to link
all the moves to the lip without falling.
1025
01:05:21,990 --> 01:05:24,820
Woods: I was like fuck, this is
my shot at the first ascent.
1026
01:05:24,820 --> 01:05:28,490
Webb: But for him, the crux
became the mental aspect of it.
1027
01:05:28,870 --> 01:05:31,000
Woods: Getting up onto the upper headwall,
1028
01:05:31,000 --> 01:05:32,910
it's within grasp you know.
1029
01:05:38,590 --> 01:05:42,550
But questing up this giant
face to a scary top out...
1030
01:05:42,550 --> 01:05:44,300
I wasn't trusting myself up there.
1031
01:05:50,310 --> 01:05:52,430
I think I just let fear
get the better of me.
1032
01:05:53,730 --> 01:05:56,600
I'm the biggest puss, why am I such a puss?
1033
01:05:56,610 --> 01:05:58,610
I definitely want to get the first ascent,
1034
01:05:58,610 --> 01:06:02,740
but with a line like this the
consequences are massive,
1035
01:06:02,740 --> 01:06:07,160
so I need to get better prepared
before going into the deep end.
1036
01:06:13,120 --> 01:06:15,540
Emerson: Daniel is very hard on himself.
1037
01:06:15,540 --> 01:06:18,380
He's haunted by these things
that he feels like he can't do.
1038
01:06:19,090 --> 01:06:20,960
Woods: This line is just
playing with my head,
1039
01:06:20,960 --> 01:06:24,010
kind of taunting me and
making me look like a fool
1040
01:06:24,010 --> 01:06:27,760
but I just realized that you're
not actually battling the rock.
1041
01:06:27,760 --> 01:06:29,260
You're always battling yourself.
1042
01:06:29,260 --> 01:06:32,220
The rock presents this problem
1043
01:06:32,220 --> 01:06:37,810
and you have to learn about
yourself to succeed on it.
1044
01:06:38,310 --> 01:06:41,110
Trainer: Last one, Last one.
Good, down, rest.
1045
01:06:46,360 --> 01:06:49,410
Woods: I've learned that I'm a
very fearful person in life.
1046
01:06:49,410 --> 01:06:53,410
I worry a lot. I have
some anxiety you know.
1047
01:06:53,410 --> 01:06:57,080
And um I'm just trying to
learn how to be more present
1048
01:06:57,080 --> 01:07:02,500
and be able to face it
face-to-face and overcome it.
1049
01:07:03,050 --> 01:07:04,720
(DOG BARKING)
1050
01:07:10,300 --> 01:07:12,970
Woods: After training, when
I get home, I meditate.
1051
01:07:12,970 --> 01:07:17,350
Just train your mind to not have any
thoughts that are distracting you.
1052
01:07:19,810 --> 01:07:23,650
I went to the psychology
section of the book store,
1053
01:07:23,650 --> 01:07:25,780
looking for something to
help me out a little bit,
1054
01:07:25,780 --> 01:07:27,150
give me that extra edge I need.
1055
01:07:27,150 --> 01:07:30,490
I just broke down the
climb into three sections
1056
01:07:30,490 --> 01:07:34,040
and the different breathing techniques
I would use for each section.
1057
01:07:34,040 --> 01:07:36,660
Woods: The first one is
inhale mouth, exhale mouth.
1058
01:07:39,040 --> 01:07:41,500
For the midd section you
don't need to be so amped,
1059
01:07:41,500 --> 01:07:42,710
you need like a combination.
1060
01:07:45,920 --> 01:07:49,010
And then when I get to the slab I
need to completely settle down,
1061
01:07:49,010 --> 01:07:52,010
so I'm going to inhale through the
nose, exhale through the nose.
1062
01:07:56,270 --> 01:07:58,810
And then you're at peace, and then
you top out and you're psyched.
1063
01:08:00,770 --> 01:08:03,150
Woods: This thing sits
in the sun all day long,
1064
01:08:03,150 --> 01:08:06,480
it bakes and these holds are
very condition dependent
1065
01:08:06,490 --> 01:08:07,650
so you need it to be cold.
1066
01:08:07,650 --> 01:08:12,870
So I'm definitely going to have to resort
to doing this boulder in the nighttime.
1067
01:08:13,910 --> 01:08:18,120
The thought of going up on that upper
slab in the night is pretty terrifying.
1068
01:08:22,710 --> 01:08:24,750
Luckily we have a good crew of people
1069
01:08:24,750 --> 01:08:26,920
who are willing to help
haul out the 20 pads
1070
01:08:26,920 --> 01:08:29,420
and hold lanterns and lights
1071
01:08:29,420 --> 01:08:31,840
and just be there to help
cheer us on, you know.
1072
01:08:31,840 --> 01:08:33,430
It's a community effort.
1073
01:08:34,350 --> 01:08:37,390
I went off by myself and
just chilled for a second.
1074
01:08:37,390 --> 01:08:43,100
I need to be humble and to be like, look this
thing is a lot greater than I am you know.
1075
01:08:43,110 --> 01:08:44,730
It's like, slow down Daniel,
1076
01:08:44,730 --> 01:08:46,570
don't get ahead of yourself.
1077
01:08:46,570 --> 01:08:50,450
Yeah, you know you're strong
enough but are you present enough?
1078
01:09:46,250 --> 01:09:48,050
(spotters cheerings)
1079
01:09:55,640 --> 01:09:59,180
Woods: A lot of emotions rushed
through me when I got to the lip.
1080
01:10:01,640 --> 01:10:02,850
I'm already tired.
1081
01:10:02,850 --> 01:10:05,690
I can feel all the nerves
in my fingers pulsing,
1082
01:10:05,690 --> 01:10:09,940
and there was something in
my head telling me to stop.
1083
01:10:14,070 --> 01:10:16,410
But I was able to calm myself down
1084
01:10:20,160 --> 01:10:21,910
and focus on what was in front of me.
1085
01:10:34,090 --> 01:10:37,340
And then I was like oh crap,
I'm actually going for it now.
1086
01:10:55,490 --> 01:10:57,360
SCREAMS
1087
01:10:57,360 --> 01:10:59,830
Spotters: Yeah daniel come on man
1088
01:11:27,270 --> 01:11:31,690
(WOO!) (CHEERS)
1089
01:11:33,070 --> 01:11:34,820
Woods: Sure I climbed something hard
1090
01:11:34,820 --> 01:11:38,950
but I achieved something much
more than just a number.
1091
01:11:39,320 --> 01:11:40,240
Best feeling ever.
1092
01:11:42,490 --> 01:11:45,500
I conquered fear.
1093
01:12:06,540 --> 01:12:08,960
Narrator: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch:
1094
01:12:08,960 --> 01:12:12,460
a sleepy patch of rural Arkansas.
1095
01:12:12,750 --> 01:12:17,090
Narrator: Where a new set of
footwear counts as a big event.
1096
01:12:23,970 --> 01:12:25,770
Narrator: But once a year,
1097
01:12:25,770 --> 01:12:31,230
this little slice of heaven is taken
over by hundreds of rock climbers,
1098
01:12:31,230 --> 01:12:35,940
who come gussied up and
chomping at the bit,
1099
01:12:35,940 --> 01:12:39,450
to spend a weekend in hell.
1100
01:12:42,870 --> 01:12:47,660
Honnold: 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell is the
craziest climbing event in the country.
1101
01:12:47,660 --> 01:12:49,290
Johnson: It’s like the
Burning Man of climbing.
1102
01:12:49,290 --> 01:12:52,710
Chasteen: Teams of two climb all
day and all night, you don’t stop.
1103
01:12:52,710 --> 01:12:53,710
Robinson: And partying the whole time.
1104
01:12:56,630 --> 01:13:01,720
Chasteen: The object is to climb as many
routes as you possibly can in 24 hours.
1105
01:13:01,720 --> 01:13:04,510
Collins: This year you have these
super sick pros coming in.
1106
01:13:04,510 --> 01:13:06,180
Unidentified: Everyone
knows about Alex Honnold.
1107
01:13:06,180 --> 01:13:08,850
Tower: And then those other guys.
1108
01:13:08,850 --> 01:13:11,230
Robinson: These elite climbers
are gonna battle it out.
1109
01:13:11,230 --> 01:13:14,860
Earle: Honnold can out climb me any day of the
week. But I bet he’s never been in a fight.
1110
01:13:14,860 --> 01:13:16,980
Berry: Take that Honnold. UGH!
1111
01:13:20,740 --> 01:13:22,320
Honnold: I’m coming for you, Mason.
1112
01:13:24,240 --> 01:13:25,830
Cowboy: Welcome to Arkansas.
1113
01:13:28,120 --> 01:13:30,710
Collins: People come to Horseshoe
Hell from all over the country.
1114
01:13:30,710 --> 01:13:34,580
You have total beginners, old-timers.
1115
01:13:34,590 --> 01:13:37,630
Unidentified: Everyone that comes to
Horseshoe Hell is there to have a good time.
1116
01:13:37,630 --> 01:13:39,670
Robinson: And everyone has
these outrageous team names.
1117
01:13:59,610 --> 01:14:01,650
Unidentified: Then you have Alex Honnold.
1118
01:14:01,650 --> 01:14:06,280
He’s the most recognizable
climbing figure in the world.
1119
01:14:06,280 --> 01:14:08,790
Towers: For Alex this is
a very serious event.
1120
01:14:08,790 --> 01:14:12,250
Robinson: Alex Honnold isn’t here
to have fun. He’s here to win.
1121
01:14:12,250 --> 01:14:16,000
Pearson: If I were to say to him “let’s go have
fun” it would be like speaking another language.
1122
01:14:16,000 --> 01:14:18,300
I don’t think he would
understand what I mean.
1123
01:14:18,300 --> 01:14:20,170
Pearson: I said we gotta come
up with a great team name.
1124
01:14:20,170 --> 01:14:21,670
We could be Thelma and Louise.
1125
01:14:22,840 --> 01:14:24,800
Pearson: He called our
team Honnold and Pearson.
1126
01:14:24,800 --> 01:14:26,890
That’s our team name? How boring.
1127
01:14:26,890 --> 01:14:28,680
Honnold: I mean I hate to
sound like a fuddy-duddy
1128
01:14:28,680 --> 01:14:31,270
but like I don’t need a team
name, I don’t need a costume,
1129
01:14:31,270 --> 01:14:32,690
I’m just gonna go out and
I’m gonna climb a lot.
1130
01:14:33,480 --> 01:14:34,730
Producer: And why don’t
you need those things?
1131
01:14:35,100 --> 01:14:38,520
[Hummingbird sounds]
1132
01:14:39,110 --> 01:14:39,860
Honnold: Should we try to shoot it?
1133
01:14:42,070 --> 01:14:44,150
Honnold: Yeah I see that.
Fuck that little bird.
1134
01:14:44,160 --> 01:14:46,910
I didn’t even know hummingbirds made noise.
1135
01:14:48,620 --> 01:14:50,540
Frisbie: I think he's
here to get first place.
1136
01:14:52,870 --> 01:14:55,120
Narrator: But don't be
too quick on the draw,
1137
01:14:55,120 --> 01:14:58,380
because Honnold's not the only
horse at the county fair.
1138
01:14:58,380 --> 01:14:58,750
(HORSE WHINNY)
1139
01:14:58,750 --> 01:15:01,710
Unidentified: Alex’s main competition
is Nik Berry and Mason Earle.
1140
01:15:01,710 --> 01:15:03,170
Earle: My name’s Mason Earle.
1141
01:15:03,170 --> 01:15:03,920
Berry: Nik Berry.
1142
01:15:03,930 --> 01:15:06,640
Earle: I’m an outdoor adventure enthusiast.
1143
01:15:06,640 --> 01:15:10,510
Berry: I’m in the transition
of becoming a nurse.
1144
01:15:10,520 --> 01:15:12,060
Producer: Have you heard of Alex Honnold?
1145
01:15:12,060 --> 01:15:14,020
Berry: Yes, I’ve heard of Alex Honnold.
1146
01:15:14,020 --> 01:15:16,900
He’s the guy from 60 Minutes.
1147
01:15:16,900 --> 01:15:20,650
Tower: Nik and Mason are small potatoes
compared to Alex Honnold, you know?
1148
01:15:20,650 --> 01:15:21,530
Unidentified: They're the underdogs.
1149
01:15:21,530 --> 01:15:23,320
Robinson: I wouldn't say B-squad exactly
1150
01:15:23,320 --> 01:15:25,700
but they're not on the front
pages of the magazines.
1151
01:15:25,700 --> 01:15:28,700
Berry: Uh, Mason and I
actually met in Indian Creek.
1152
01:15:28,700 --> 01:15:32,740
My old roommate was shooting
photos of me on this route,
1153
01:15:32,750 --> 01:15:36,040
knocked a rock, and it hit me in the head.
1154
01:15:36,040 --> 01:15:39,790
And uh, blood started coming down my eyes.
1155
01:15:39,790 --> 01:15:42,960
And I just kept trying to climb,
1156
01:15:42,960 --> 01:15:47,470
eventually had to give up because I couldn't
see cause the blood was in my eyes.
1157
01:15:47,470 --> 01:15:50,140
And Mason just happened to be there.
1158
01:15:50,140 --> 01:15:56,390
He just made me feel so warm and comforted and
ever since then we've been such kind kin.
1159
01:16:07,490 --> 01:16:09,530
Unidentified: Nik and
Mason are super lovable,
1160
01:16:09,530 --> 01:16:12,740
but they just don't have that
competitive edge that Alex Honnold has.
1161
01:16:12,740 --> 01:16:14,490
Unidentified: They’re lacking
that killer extinct.
1162
01:16:14,500 --> 01:16:17,660
Berry: I've never actually done
a climbing competition before.
1163
01:16:17,670 --> 01:16:21,840
Earle: It's just I just feel silly saying I
want to win, but we’re gonna try our best.
1164
01:16:23,840 --> 01:16:25,880
Narrator: Will these two
young bucks get trampled?
1165
01:16:25,880 --> 01:16:27,800
Honnold: I’m coming for you Mason.
1166
01:16:27,800 --> 01:16:31,050
Narrator: Or can they tame the wild
stallion that is Alex Honnold?
1167
01:16:31,050 --> 01:16:32,560
Honnold: This is like
being in a cowboy movie.
1168
01:16:33,100 --> 01:16:36,180
Narrator: Fortunately, Nik and
Mason have a secret weapon.
1169
01:16:36,180 --> 01:16:38,100
Berry: We've got some
tricks up our sleeves.
1170
01:16:38,100 --> 01:16:40,350
Earle: Nik and I's biggest
advantage that um,
1171
01:16:40,350 --> 01:16:42,440
nobody else has is, uh,
1172
01:16:42,440 --> 01:16:44,650
our coach, coach Todd.
1173
01:16:47,650 --> 01:16:49,030
Earle: Todd's got a good look.
1174
01:16:49,030 --> 01:16:51,490
It's sort of the Missouri Zen.
1175
01:16:51,490 --> 01:16:53,700
Chew in the lip, hair done up.
1176
01:16:53,700 --> 01:16:55,700
Like a tobacco fueled rocket.
1177
01:16:57,120 --> 01:17:00,920
Narrator: Todd Johnson was the
first champion back in 2007,
1178
01:17:00,920 --> 01:17:03,540
and he’s still obsessed with this event.
1179
01:17:03,540 --> 01:17:06,380
Johnson: Mason called me up, said Hey
Todd, can you give me some help?
1180
01:17:06,380 --> 01:17:09,260
What they’re doing is
what I dream of doing.
1181
01:17:09,260 --> 01:17:12,300
Earle: Todd's a real scientist in
his approach to Horseshoe Hell.
1182
01:17:12,300 --> 01:17:14,600
Johnson: I've got a training
program I emailed them.
1183
01:17:14,600 --> 01:17:15,720
Changing their diet.
1184
01:17:15,720 --> 01:17:19,180
The route list I’m doing
for them is my fantasy.
1185
01:17:19,190 --> 01:17:21,230
Earle: Next thing you know,
he had a highlighter out.
1186
01:17:21,230 --> 01:17:22,900
And he just went into coach mode.
1187
01:17:22,900 --> 01:17:23,980
Berry: "Alright, here's the plan guys."
1188
01:17:23,980 --> 01:17:25,860
"You’re gonna do all these routes."
1189
01:17:25,860 --> 01:17:27,650
Earle: He's got this big spreadsheet,
all the routes we have to do,
1190
01:17:27,650 --> 01:17:30,570
all the point totals, the time
limits we have for each section.
1191
01:17:30,570 --> 01:17:34,070
Johnson: If you want to win, you've got
to climb one route every three minutes.
1192
01:17:34,080 --> 01:17:38,370
Earle: If you do all this, you
guys will beat last year's score.
1193
01:17:38,370 --> 01:17:40,120
Unidentified: Todd may give
them the competitive edge.
1194
01:17:40,120 --> 01:17:43,040
Tower: Those guys bringing a coach
in is kind of a different level.
1195
01:17:43,040 --> 01:17:48,800
Unidentified: Three on one. It's like a cage match
with three midgets against Andre the Giant.
1196
01:17:56,010 --> 01:18:01,480
Collins: Good morning Horseshoe Hell!
1197
01:18:01,480 --> 01:18:05,560
Collins: I want to see you face to face with
your partner with your right hand raised.
1198
01:18:05,570 --> 01:18:07,730
Collins: Look deep into their souls.
1199
01:18:07,730 --> 01:18:08,860
Collins: Partner!
1200
01:18:08,860 --> 01:18:09,480
Crowd: Partner!
1201
01:18:09,490 --> 01:18:10,190
Collins: You!
1202
01:18:10,190 --> 01:18:10,820
Crowd: You!
1203
01:18:10,820 --> 01:18:12,070
Collins: Youuuu!
1204
01:18:12,070 --> 01:18:13,200
Crowd: Youuuu!
1205
01:18:13,200 --> 01:18:14,570
Collins: You talked me into this!
1206
01:18:14,570 --> 01:18:15,780
Crowd: You talked me into this!
1207
01:18:15,780 --> 01:18:18,200
Collins: When the sun rises
upon the dawn of tomorrow,
1208
01:18:18,200 --> 01:18:20,000
Crowd: When the sun rises
upon the dawn of tomorrow,
1209
01:18:20,000 --> 01:18:23,000
Collins: We will rise like
zombies in the bowels of night!
1210
01:18:23,000 --> 01:18:24,250
Crowd: We will rise like zombies
in the bowels of night!
1211
01:18:24,250 --> 01:18:27,130
Collins: We are lions in a field of lions!
1212
01:18:27,130 --> 01:18:28,500
Crowd: We are lions in a field of lions!
1213
01:18:28,500 --> 01:18:31,260
Collins: RAAAWWWRRRRRR
1214
01:18:31,260 --> 01:18:34,050
Collins: Let's climb!
1215
01:18:34,050 --> 01:18:35,090
Collins: Oww!
1216
01:18:35,340 --> 01:18:38,930
Chasteen: The shotgun sounds and people
scatter to start their 24 hours.
1217
01:18:49,230 --> 01:18:50,940
Collins: The rules are pretty simple.
1218
01:18:50,940 --> 01:18:52,860
Chasteen: All routes have to be up on lead.
1219
01:18:52,860 --> 01:18:54,570
Collins: You can climb every route twice.
1220
01:18:54,570 --> 01:18:57,160
Chasteen: The harder a route you
do, the more points you get.
1221
01:18:57,160 --> 01:18:58,370
Chasteen: Then your partner jumps on.
1222
01:18:58,370 --> 01:18:59,950
Chasteen: He or she does his pitch.
1223
01:18:59,950 --> 01:19:01,910
Collins: If you fall, no points.
1224
01:19:01,910 --> 01:19:03,410
Collins: That's pretty much the gist of it.
1225
01:19:04,290 --> 01:19:06,120
Narrator: When Horseshoe Hell kicks off,
1226
01:19:06,130 --> 01:19:09,880
folks are running around
nuttier than a squirrel turd.
1227
01:19:09,880 --> 01:19:12,010
WOOOOOO!!!
1228
01:19:14,840 --> 01:19:17,350
Narrator: And Honnold’s climbing
like he’s got a bee in his britches.
1229
01:19:18,140 --> 01:19:20,060
Robinson: Honnold, he started
off climbing really hard.
1230
01:19:25,100 --> 01:19:25,770
Pearson: Yeah.
1231
01:19:29,320 --> 01:19:32,780
Narrator: But poor old Nik and Mason
have a hitch in their giddy-up.
1232
01:19:32,780 --> 01:19:38,120
Earle and Berry: One, Two, Three, Shoot…
1233
01:19:38,120 --> 01:19:42,910
One, Two, Three, Shoot!
1234
01:19:42,910 --> 01:19:43,950
Berry: Oh, you crushed me.
1235
01:19:43,960 --> 01:19:45,960
Earle: First pitch of the day.
1236
01:19:48,040 --> 01:19:52,130
Johnson: It’s lactic acid on the hard
routes that will absolutely fry you.
1237
01:19:52,130 --> 01:19:52,920
Earle: Alright Nik I’m with you.
1238
01:19:54,720 --> 01:19:56,970
Johnson: Time is the biggest issue.
1239
01:19:56,970 --> 01:19:57,800
They need to keep going.
1240
01:19:57,800 --> 01:20:00,100
Berry: We’re already hurting.
1241
01:20:00,100 --> 01:20:03,180
Hopefully we can just maintain the pain.
1242
01:20:05,230 --> 01:20:09,150
Honnold: So I guess my basic strategy
is just to do difficulty over volume,
1243
01:20:09,150 --> 01:20:10,110
doing a lot of hard routes.
1244
01:20:10,110 --> 01:20:13,730
Honnold: I skipped the easy stuff because
I cannot be bothered to climb 5.7.
1245
01:20:13,730 --> 01:20:15,360
I'm just like…
1246
01:20:20,700 --> 01:20:24,830
Unidentified:: He was climbing all
the hard routes as fast as he could.
1247
01:20:24,830 --> 01:20:26,080
Robinson: But it's a risky strategy.
1248
01:20:26,080 --> 01:20:28,620
How long can you sustain that?
1249
01:20:28,620 --> 01:20:33,960
If you fall one move from the top,
all that energy and skin - gone.
1250
01:20:33,960 --> 01:20:36,300
Narrator: But this is Alex Honnold,
1251
01:20:36,300 --> 01:20:40,300
who’s got a fancy
reputation for not falling.
1252
01:20:40,930 --> 01:20:44,560
(NOO!)
1253
01:20:45,520 --> 01:20:48,980
The news echoed through the canyon.
1254
01:20:48,980 --> 01:20:49,810
HONNOLD FELL!
1255
01:20:49,810 --> 01:20:50,850
WHAT? HE FELL?
1256
01:20:50,860 --> 01:20:51,650
HONNOLD FELL?
1257
01:20:51,650 --> 01:20:54,030
HONNOLD FELL!
1258
01:20:54,530 --> 01:20:56,070
Berry: How was that fall, Honnold?
1259
01:20:56,070 --> 01:20:58,650
How was that, how'd that feel?
1260
01:21:00,110 --> 01:21:03,620
Probably those big cankles
of yours, holding you down.
1261
01:21:08,210 --> 01:21:09,670
Earle: Oh Nik, you're mean.
1262
01:21:14,090 --> 01:21:15,920
Honnold: I fell on one
of my routes so I suck,
1263
01:21:15,920 --> 01:21:19,630
but I’m going to flog myself
to death because of it.
1264
01:21:24,100 --> 01:21:25,220
Earle: What the fuck, dude?
1265
01:21:25,220 --> 01:21:27,350
Why did I, why did I fall there?
1266
01:21:27,350 --> 01:21:29,560
Berry: TNF will probably
drop him after this comp.
1267
01:21:29,560 --> 01:21:32,980
I don't think they sponsor failures.
1268
01:21:34,570 --> 01:21:37,690
Earle: Nik and I however are like
three hours ahead of schedule.
1269
01:21:39,900 --> 01:21:42,240
Unidentified: Nik and
Mason were crushing it.
1270
01:21:42,870 --> 01:21:44,070
Johnson: So right now,
1271
01:21:44,080 --> 01:21:47,660
we're on schedule to beat
last year's high score,
1272
01:21:47,660 --> 01:21:49,750
uh, by almost a thousand points.
1273
01:21:49,750 --> 01:21:52,040
Earle: Todd has definitely raised our game.
1274
01:21:54,750 --> 01:21:56,380
Johnson: You guys are rockin!
1275
01:21:56,800 --> 01:21:59,590
Honnold: Coach Todd helpin' them out. I
mean that's super helpful obviously.
1276
01:22:03,140 --> 01:22:06,350
Johnson: Pop it! Stay with
it Nik, stay with it!
1277
01:22:06,510 --> 01:22:09,770
Excellent job, excellent job.
1278
01:22:09,770 --> 01:22:10,930
Honnold: I realized that I
need some kind of help.
1279
01:22:10,940 --> 01:22:11,770
Berry: Thanks coach.
1280
01:22:11,770 --> 01:22:12,770
Johnson: Save your fingers.
1281
01:22:12,770 --> 01:22:14,980
Honnold: Somebody to keep track
of score, keep track of routes.
1282
01:22:14,980 --> 01:22:18,360
Robinson: He needs somebody to carry the
clipboard, someone to lift his spirits.
1283
01:22:18,360 --> 01:22:21,110
(laughs)
1284
01:22:23,160 --> 01:22:27,330
Narrator: From among the crowd of Honnold’s
many admirers stepped one brave soul
1285
01:22:27,330 --> 01:22:29,830
to help him take the bull by the horns.
1286
01:22:31,960 --> 01:22:36,590
Narrator: Marisa Frazier brings the kind of
positive attitude Honnold needs about now.
1287
01:22:36,590 --> 01:22:39,170
Pearson: She had more energy
than the two of us put together.
1288
01:22:39,170 --> 01:22:40,550
Honnold: Marisa was the best.
1289
01:22:40,550 --> 01:22:42,420
Pearson: She was so supportive.
1290
01:22:42,430 --> 01:22:43,970
Marisa: Keeping up a really good pace!
1291
01:22:43,970 --> 01:22:46,890
Pearson: And she loved
taking selfies with Alex.
1292
01:22:50,390 --> 01:22:51,810
Narrator: With Marisa on board,
1293
01:22:51,810 --> 01:22:55,100
Alex was happier than a
possum eating a sweet potato.
1294
01:22:55,100 --> 01:22:57,060
And he was back on track.
1295
01:22:58,730 --> 01:23:01,940
Honnold: Nice pitch. Yeah I gotcha.
1296
01:23:03,860 --> 01:23:06,570
Narrator: Meanwhile, the Horseshoe
Hellians keep the stoke burning,
1297
01:23:10,910 --> 01:23:13,120
as dusk settles on the canyon.
1298
01:23:21,630 --> 01:23:24,380
Chasteen: By the time 8
o’clock rolls around
1299
01:23:24,380 --> 01:23:26,220
it gets dark and the headlamps come on,
1300
01:23:26,220 --> 01:23:28,680
glow sticks come on,
1301
01:23:28,680 --> 01:23:30,600
people just stay moving.
1302
01:23:42,070 --> 01:23:43,490
Climber: Here's some psych man
1303
01:23:45,070 --> 01:23:46,490
Climber: Thank you!
1304
01:23:46,490 --> 01:23:48,240
Climber: Wow that was like
an instant psych transfer.
1305
01:23:48,240 --> 01:23:49,740
Climbers: (Snake hiss)
1306
01:23:52,370 --> 01:23:54,830
Johnson: We’re looking at
having a really good score.
1307
01:23:56,920 --> 01:23:59,290
Johnson: As long as we don’t
lose energy during the night,
1308
01:23:59,290 --> 01:24:00,500
we’re gonna rock and roll.
1309
01:24:00,500 --> 01:24:02,260
Johnson: Easy climbing to the top Mason.
1310
01:24:09,850 --> 01:24:15,560
Honnold: Marisa did fine, I mean she
kept track of our scores right.
1311
01:24:15,560 --> 01:24:17,270
Honnold: But then like in the middle
of the night she got really drunk
1312
01:24:17,270 --> 01:24:18,650
and like free soloed some 5.5
1313
01:24:18,650 --> 01:24:20,730
and then when she got down she
like fell asleep on the pad
1314
01:24:20,730 --> 01:24:22,110
and so we lost her for a couple hours.
1315
01:24:22,110 --> 01:24:23,980
And then she woke up all like,
1316
01:24:23,990 --> 01:24:25,650
"Oh god, what did I do with the scorecard?"
1317
01:24:29,070 --> 01:24:30,450
Honnold: We had this
kinda surreal experience
1318
01:24:30,450 --> 01:24:33,450
where a bunch of drunk chicks showed
up and started making like sex noises.
1319
01:24:33,870 --> 01:24:36,540
Girls: Oh, oh yeah.
1320
01:24:36,540 --> 01:24:39,540
Honnold: Grab it, grab it harder, ah.
1321
01:24:39,540 --> 01:24:41,250
Girls: Yeah that one right
there, that feels good.
1322
01:24:42,090 --> 01:24:44,420
Pearson: Squeezing the hold,
and stroking the hold,
1323
01:24:44,420 --> 01:24:47,470
and putting your hand in various cracks.
1324
01:24:47,470 --> 01:24:49,640
Honnold: I was like, what
is wrong with these girls?
1325
01:24:55,640 --> 01:24:57,390
Pearson: They hung out for about an hour
1326
01:24:57,390 --> 01:25:00,310
before they got too drunk to
focus and then they left.
1327
01:25:01,190 --> 01:25:03,480
Girls: Oh, fuck my life, ok.
1328
01:25:03,480 --> 01:25:05,440
Girls: We’re drunk and lost.
1329
01:25:07,240 --> 01:25:11,030
Narrator: The long nights of Horseshoe
Hell are when the beasts come out.
1330
01:25:12,530 --> 01:25:14,160
The strong keep sending
1331
01:25:15,540 --> 01:25:17,370
and the weak cry for mama.
1332
01:25:18,210 --> 01:25:21,540
Robinson: Everybody's seeing cross-eyed,
just trying to bang the routes out.
1333
01:25:22,710 --> 01:25:25,800
Climber: About 4 am, you're pulling
from the bottom of the well.
1334
01:25:26,590 --> 01:25:28,130
Chasteen: People push
themselves to the limit.
1335
01:25:29,050 --> 01:25:29,800
Climber: Getting a little rough.
1336
01:25:29,800 --> 01:25:32,140
Climber: Not gonna lie man I'm
feeling bonking out quite a bit.
1337
01:25:32,140 --> 01:25:34,930
Chasteen: You see people
passed out in the grass.
1338
01:25:37,520 --> 01:25:39,520
Berry: Your hands hurt really bad,
1339
01:25:39,520 --> 01:25:41,980
your feet hurt like hell,
1340
01:25:41,980 --> 01:25:44,070
it's just like this insane burning.
1341
01:25:45,190 --> 01:25:47,360
Earle: It was just kind of like agony.
1342
01:25:47,360 --> 01:25:48,940
Berry: The last thing you
want to do is climb,
1343
01:25:48,950 --> 01:25:51,360
and you have you know,
60 more pitches to do.
1344
01:25:51,360 --> 01:25:53,450
Producer: Why do you
have to just keep going?
1345
01:25:53,450 --> 01:25:56,240
Berry: Because you gotta try to
beat Alex Honnold obviously.
1346
01:25:56,620 --> 01:25:58,790
Cameraman: What time in the morning is it?
1347
01:25:58,790 --> 01:26:00,960
Earle: It's like 4:20 or something.
1348
01:26:00,960 --> 01:26:03,080
Berry: 4:20 dog?
1349
01:26:03,080 --> 01:26:09,050
Earle: Oh, shit!
1350
01:26:09,050 --> 01:26:11,680
Earle: Ooh, that happened first try.
1351
01:26:11,680 --> 01:26:14,640
Johnson: We're having
some trouble on some 13s
1352
01:26:14,640 --> 01:26:16,760
and Honnold kinda showed us up and,
1353
01:26:16,760 --> 01:26:17,760
and cruised 'em.
1354
01:26:17,770 --> 01:26:19,930
Earle: Did you send all those 5.13s?
1355
01:26:19,930 --> 01:26:23,520
Honnold: I sent all three of those like
basically back to back to back pretty much.
1356
01:26:23,520 --> 01:26:24,560
So I basically did 6 of em.
1357
01:26:24,560 --> 01:26:27,110
It's like 3000 points in like 45 minutes.
1358
01:26:27,360 --> 01:26:29,780
Honnold: I mean I feel like it's one of those
things if you guys don't have enough points
1359
01:26:29,780 --> 01:26:31,650
I should just go to bed
right now and call it a day
1360
01:26:31,820 --> 01:26:33,410
Earle: All his shit-talking.
1361
01:26:33,820 --> 01:26:34,990
Cameraman: Do you have a response?
1362
01:26:35,030 --> 01:26:38,410
Earle: Tell Honnold that we’re
not gonna show him any mercy.
1363
01:26:45,790 --> 01:26:48,000
Narrator: When dawn breaks,
1364
01:26:48,000 --> 01:26:50,210
hope is renewed
1365
01:26:50,210 --> 01:26:53,260
and life returns to the ranch.
1366
01:26:54,340 --> 01:26:55,800
Chasteen: When that sun comes up,
1367
01:26:55,800 --> 01:26:59,640
you get that last shot of
adrenaline for that last hour.
1368
01:26:59,640 --> 01:27:01,350
Climber: Here's the digits, uh,
1369
01:27:01,350 --> 01:27:04,390
a little sore but I'll definitely be
able to pick up a beer afterwards.
1370
01:27:04,400 --> 01:27:07,150
Climber: I am feeling invigorated
now that the sun is up.
1371
01:27:23,040 --> 01:27:24,580
Climber: WOOO!
1372
01:27:28,920 --> 01:27:32,840
Johnson: So we got 7 more routes
that we need to get in before 10.
1373
01:27:32,840 --> 01:27:34,010
I know they can do it.
1374
01:27:39,970 --> 01:27:41,930
Earle: Mmm fuck dude.
1375
01:27:42,560 --> 01:27:45,850
Berry: About 7 or 8 in the
morning, Mason just lost it.
1376
01:27:45,850 --> 01:27:48,730
He was completely delusional,
1377
01:27:48,730 --> 01:27:51,190
doing all these weird moaning voices.
1378
01:27:51,650 --> 01:27:54,110
Earle: Ughhh mmmmmm
1379
01:27:54,110 --> 01:27:56,490
Berry: Ehhrrr Ehhhhr. (LAUGHS)
1380
01:27:57,160 --> 01:27:59,830
Earle: Ehhmmm.
1381
01:27:59,830 --> 01:28:00,830
Earle: Mmmmm.
1382
01:28:00,830 --> 01:28:03,700
Earle: Having to grunt on 5.8s.
1383
01:28:04,830 --> 01:28:08,630
Johnson: And motivating them, whatever
tricks I could pull out, I tried.
1384
01:28:09,340 --> 01:28:11,210
Johnson: Good job Mason,
last pitch of the day.
1385
01:28:11,210 --> 01:28:12,710
Johnson: This is your
last one guys, I promise.
1386
01:28:12,880 --> 01:28:14,920
Earle: Yay, I’m done with coach’s list.
1387
01:28:14,920 --> 01:28:16,720
Johnson: And then, no
this is your last one.
1388
01:28:16,720 --> 01:28:20,010
Earle: We're gonna have to
try some fucked-up 11d.
1389
01:28:21,140 --> 01:28:23,390
Johnson: No, this is actually
like a really fun route.
1390
01:28:23,390 --> 01:28:27,140
So, end on a happy note, with a smile.
1391
01:28:27,150 --> 01:28:28,060
Earle: I'm so happy.
1392
01:28:28,060 --> 01:28:34,480
Earle: (GRUNTING)
1393
01:28:34,490 --> 01:28:35,700
Earle: Thanks buddy.
1394
01:28:40,450 --> 01:28:42,450
Johnson: Yep.
1395
01:28:44,080 --> 01:28:47,080
Johnson: Nik gets down from
the last one and he said uh,
1396
01:28:47,080 --> 01:28:50,420
"We finished your effin' list,
I'm not doin another one!"
1397
01:28:50,630 --> 01:28:52,920
Berry: We wanted to make our coach proud,
1398
01:28:52,920 --> 01:28:54,050
that was the whole point.
1399
01:28:54,050 --> 01:28:55,880
Berry: God my feet hurt.
1400
01:29:00,260 --> 01:29:02,760
Berry: Flip flops feel so nice.
1401
01:29:02,760 --> 01:29:04,510
Honnold: This is hopefully
my last route of the day.
1402
01:29:04,520 --> 01:29:06,770
I'm pooped and my hands really hurt,
1403
01:29:06,770 --> 01:29:09,560
and I already have many many points,
1404
01:29:09,560 --> 01:29:11,110
and I'm just kind of over it.
1405
01:29:12,270 --> 01:29:13,860
I'm so tired.
1406
01:29:14,530 --> 01:29:16,940
Pearson: He continued to
just push that score.
1407
01:29:18,240 --> 01:29:20,200
He wanted to see how high he could get.
1408
01:29:23,700 --> 01:29:24,990
Chasteen: 10 o'clock comes.
1409
01:29:28,410 --> 01:29:31,000
Everybody turned in their score cards.
1410
01:29:31,670 --> 01:29:34,170
They're psyched that it's done.
1411
01:29:46,470 --> 01:29:49,480
Earle: Absolutely, we put in
everything we possibly could've.
1412
01:29:49,480 --> 01:29:52,190
Berry: I just want my bed, a shower.
1413
01:29:52,190 --> 01:29:56,360
Earle: I wish I had a bed, I've got
like a sticky leather couch cushions.
1414
01:29:59,280 --> 01:30:02,820
Chasteen: 11 o'clock, reality sets
in and everybody just crashes.
1415
01:30:02,820 --> 01:30:04,580
The place is dead quiet.
1416
01:30:06,910 --> 01:30:11,580
Chasteen: Meanwhile, our scoring team is
figuring out who climbed the most routes.
1417
01:30:14,920 --> 01:30:16,710
Chasteen: The awards ceremony
starts later that night.
1418
01:30:16,750 --> 01:30:20,220
Robinson: Everybody gathers together in the
center of the canyon to find out who won.
1419
01:30:20,220 --> 01:30:23,090
Chasteen: Ok so the results are in, people.
1420
01:30:25,510 --> 01:30:30,850
Chasteen: With a
record-smashing 77,310 points,
1421
01:30:30,850 --> 01:30:33,520
Mason Earle and Nik Berry!
1422
01:30:34,310 --> 01:30:35,730
(CHEERS)
1423
01:30:36,940 --> 01:30:38,440
Earle: Here I'd have to
check with my parents
1424
01:30:38,440 --> 01:30:41,280
but I'm pretty sure this is the first
trophy I've ever gotten my whole life,
1425
01:30:41,280 --> 01:30:42,280
which is kind of exciting.
1426
01:30:42,860 --> 01:30:47,370
Earle: I was telling Todd, I was like, Todd,
this is, this really your victory, you know?
1427
01:30:47,370 --> 01:30:48,950
Earle: He's like, "Yeah."
1428
01:30:50,620 --> 01:30:54,580
Johnson: Yeah. I’ll brag about it.
I’m coach.
1429
01:30:56,170 --> 01:30:58,170
Robinson: It took two pretty good climbers,
1430
01:30:58,170 --> 01:30:59,090
and a coach,
1431
01:30:59,090 --> 01:31:00,670
to beat Alex Honnold.
1432
01:31:00,670 --> 01:31:02,420
Honnold: I didn't beat Nik
and Mason's team score,
1433
01:31:02,430 --> 01:31:04,430
so I gotta come back and claim it.
1434
01:31:04,430 --> 01:31:05,510
We'll see.
1435
01:31:06,800 --> 01:31:08,760
Berry: 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
1436
01:31:08,770 --> 01:31:12,770
is the worst experience
I’ve ever had of my life,
1437
01:31:12,770 --> 01:31:15,190
and I will never return.
1438
01:31:15,190 --> 01:31:18,070
Ever.
1439
01:31:18,980 --> 01:31:21,190
Narrator: And with that
ringing endorsement,
1440
01:31:21,190 --> 01:31:25,110
24 Hours of Horseshoe
Hell draws to a close.
1441
01:31:25,870 --> 01:31:27,780
As these long suffering climbers
1442
01:31:27,780 --> 01:31:32,160
finally get to wet their
snouts and go hog-wild.
1443
01:31:32,870 --> 01:31:35,290
Chasteen: Saturday evening
the real party begins.
1444
01:31:35,290 --> 01:31:39,880
People are done, they're ready
to like, let their hair down.
1445
01:31:45,890 --> 01:31:48,640
Collins: The party as usual,
went a little overboard.
1446
01:31:50,520 --> 01:31:51,350
Tower: That was a little much.
1447
01:31:51,350 --> 01:31:52,310
Maybe it wasn't enough,
1448
01:31:52,310 --> 01:31:53,020
I don't know what it was,
1449
01:31:53,020 --> 01:31:54,520
I barely remember.
1450
01:31:58,270 --> 01:32:00,860
Unidentified: Marisa just full
on went for it with Spiderman.
1451
01:32:02,030 --> 01:32:03,530
Robinson: Who was that masked man?
1452
01:32:03,530 --> 01:32:06,200
Was it Nik? Mason?
1453
01:32:44,667 --> 01:32:45,733
Caldwell: You got it.
1454
01:32:46,100 --> 01:32:46,633
(NOO!)
1455
01:32:46,833 --> 01:32:47,300
(OOF!)
1456
01:32:49,733 --> 01:32:51,333
(GRUNT)
1457
01:32:51,333 --> 01:32:51,467
(AHH!)
(GRUNT)
1458
01:32:51,467 --> 01:32:52,533
(AHH!)
1459
01:32:55,200 --> 01:32:58,367
Caldwell: It's just a monumental project.
1460
01:33:04,733 --> 01:33:07,566
Branch: Hey guys, its John Branch from the New York Times. How's it goin up there?
1461
01:33:07,567 --> 01:33:10,199
Caldwell: Good John. Good to hear from you man.
1462
01:33:10,200 --> 01:33:11,699
Jorgeson: Hey John, it's Kevin.
1463
01:33:11,700 --> 01:33:14,466
Branch: Hey Kevin. Uh, how high up are you guys right now?
1464
01:33:14,467 --> 01:33:18,632
Caldwell: We are about 1200 feet up the wall at our base camp.
1465
01:33:18,633 --> 01:33:20,332
This has been our home for 9 days now.
1466
01:33:20,333 --> 01:33:26,366
Branch: I've asked a couple people if you're basically Ahab chasing Moby Dick?
1467
01:33:26,367 --> 01:33:29,666
Caldwell: Yeah, totally. I've actually called this that exact thing.
1468
01:33:29,667 --> 01:33:31,267
This is my Moby Dick for sure.
1469
01:33:33,367 --> 01:33:36,499
Caldwell: No project has consumed me as much as the Dawn Wall.
1470
01:33:36,500 --> 01:33:41,333
It's the steepest blankest face on the best big wall in the world.
1471
01:33:42,367 --> 01:33:45,299
This year we started our big push in the middle of winter
1472
01:33:45,300 --> 01:33:49,233
because the holds are so small and we needed the best friction we could find.
1473
01:33:49,367 --> 01:33:50,867
Caldwell: It's gonna be awesome.
1474
01:33:53,100 --> 01:33:56,133
Caldwell: Things went well, like really well.
1475
01:33:57,333 --> 01:34:02,433
The hardest section of the route is this 250 foot traverse right in the middle of the wall.
1476
01:34:03,233 --> 01:34:05,300
Jorgeson: OH YEAH!
1477
01:34:06,133 --> 01:34:07,567
Jorgeson : Holy shit!
1478
01:34:08,800 --> 01:34:11,832
Caldwell: When we did pitch 14 it was this huge breakthrough,
1479
01:34:11,833 --> 01:34:13,867
and it got us halfway through the traverse.
1480
01:34:14,333 --> 01:34:15,232
Jorgeson: Yeah Tommy!
1481
01:34:15,233 --> 01:34:16,466
Caldwell: BOOM!
1482
01:34:16,467 --> 01:34:21,133
Caldwell: But I was still really worried because the next day was pitch 15.
1483
01:34:28,533 --> 01:34:32,267
Caldwell: It's the closest thing I've come to climbing like a sheet of glass.
1484
01:34:32,533 --> 01:34:33,400
Jorgeson: Come on Tommy!
1485
01:34:33,433 --> 01:34:35,832
Caldwell: You're just waiting to slip off at any moment.
1486
01:34:35,833 --> 01:34:37,266
Jorgeson: Come on!
1487
01:34:37,267 --> 01:34:41,366
Caldwell: The holds are tiny, it's like credit cards glued to the wall.
1488
01:34:41,367 --> 01:34:45,432
And you just have to pull down on them as hard as you can
1489
01:34:45,433 --> 01:34:47,233
and then pull as far as you can.
1490
01:34:52,167 --> 01:34:54,466
Caldwell: I suddenly felt this confidence.
1491
01:34:54,467 --> 01:34:56,700
I felt like I just wasn't going to fall.
1492
01:34:59,433 --> 01:35:03,867
And that was really cool to come to that after you know seven years of working on that pitch.
1493
01:35:12,800 --> 01:35:15,232
Jorgeson: I was over the moon psyched
1494
01:35:15,233 --> 01:35:17,599
to watch Tommy send pitch 15.
1495
01:35:17,600 --> 01:35:20,867
It was one of the more impressive pieces of climbing I've ever seen.
1496
01:35:23,200 --> 01:35:24,199
Jorgeson: Yeah buddy!
1497
01:35:24,200 --> 01:35:24,299
Caldwell: BOOM!
1498
01:35:24,300 --> 01:35:26,132
Caldwell: At that point I was like, we are on a roll.
1499
01:35:26,133 --> 01:35:29,099
I mean there's a million things that have to come together right to send the thing,
1500
01:35:29,100 --> 01:35:32,399
but I was way more confident than I ever had been.
1501
01:35:32,400 --> 01:35:36,333
Caldwell: YEAH HAHA! Psyched dude!
1502
01:35:36,333 --> 01:35:36,367
Jorgeson: The next day, it was on the next page of the New York Times and it just exploded.
Caldwell: YEAH HAHA! Psyched dude!
1503
01:35:36,367 --> 01:35:40,799
Jorgeson: The next day, it was on the next page of the New York Times and it just exploded.
1504
01:35:40,800 --> 01:35:43,599
News Anchor: Two guys perched on a cliff above Yosemite.
1505
01:35:43,600 --> 01:35:45,432
News Anchor: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
1506
01:35:45,433 --> 01:35:48,166
News Anchor: They're attempting to free climb the Dawn Wall.
1507
01:35:48,167 --> 01:35:51,132
Caldwell: Suddenly the whole world was watching this climb.
1508
01:35:51,133 --> 01:35:52,866
Jorgeson: Which wasn't the best timing
1509
01:35:52,867 --> 01:35:55,133
for me personally.
1510
01:35:56,867 --> 01:35:59,399
Caldwell: Kevin had tried this pitch you know hundreds of times
1511
01:35:59,400 --> 01:36:00,799
and he had never been able to do it.
1512
01:36:00,800 --> 01:36:05,432
It was actually harder than any piece of climbing he had ever done in his life.
1513
01:36:05,433 --> 01:36:07,833
There was just a lot of pressure on him.
1514
01:36:08,600 --> 01:36:11,367
Jorgeson: AHH! AHH! AHHHH!
1515
01:36:13,133 --> 01:36:16,566
Jorgeson: Everyone's tuning in to a story of climbers living on the side of a wall,
1516
01:36:16,567 --> 01:36:18,232
and one of them is stuck.
1517
01:36:18,233 --> 01:36:21,467
News Anchor: Well history is on hold right now is Yosemite National Park.
1518
01:36:22,633 --> 01:36:25,132
Kevin Jorgeson is stuck.
1519
01:36:25,133 --> 01:36:26,466
Jorgeson: I'm tired.
1520
01:36:26,467 --> 01:36:27,600
Caldwell: Yeah
1521
01:36:28,500 --> 01:36:32,099
Jorgeson: One thing that I was battling was two split fingers.
1522
01:36:32,100 --> 01:36:36,299
So I took two rest days of just staring at my fingers,
1523
01:36:36,300 --> 01:36:37,867
willing them to heal.
1524
01:36:39,467 --> 01:36:42,133
Cameraman: Today is day eleven.
1525
01:36:42,733 --> 01:36:44,433
Jorgeson: Tommy do you have the ibuprofen?
1526
01:36:46,700 --> 01:36:47,832
Jorgeson: Oh yeah!
1527
01:36:47,833 --> 01:36:49,532
Jorgeson: The mission is for me to finish pitch 15.
1528
01:36:51,533 --> 01:36:53,467
Jorgeson: Sending vitamins.
1529
01:36:53,867 --> 01:36:56,767
Jorgeson: I know the moves, I’m going to do it.
1530
01:37:13,400 --> 01:37:16,500
Jorgeson: The best conditions are when it gets dark.
1531
01:37:17,867 --> 01:37:20,433
There's a nice cold breeze blowing up the wall.
1532
01:37:23,267 --> 01:37:26,633
You've been waiting for days for the skin to heal.
1533
01:37:29,167 --> 01:37:30,600
For this moment to come.
1534
01:37:33,300 --> 01:37:34,667
Now is the time to do it.
1535
01:38:20,533 --> 01:38:22,133
Jorgeson: I felt weightless.
1536
01:38:23,600 --> 01:38:27,233
I was floating across the pitch.
1537
01:38:30,500 --> 01:38:32,133
Caldwell: Come on.
1538
01:38:34,500 --> 03:17:08,867
Hold it together.
1539
01:38:44,300 --> 01:38:44,600
Jorgeson: (GRUNTS)
1540
01:38:47,833 --> 01:38:50,533
Caldwell:Come on Kevin! Do it man! You got it.
1541
01:38:52,333 --> 01:38:52,866
Come on.
1542
01:38:52,867 --> 01:38:54,632
You got it. Come on.
1543
01:38:54,633 --> 01:38:57,166
Find it.
1544
01:38:57,167 --> 01:38:58,800
Good. Come on.
1545
01:38:59,667 --> 01:39:02,200
Jorgeson: AHHHHHH!!!
1546
01:39:02,267 --> 01:39:03,433
Caldwell: Oh no!
1547
01:39:03,567 --> 01:39:05,732
Jorgeson: Everything was perfect.
1548
01:39:05,733 --> 01:39:06,466
Caldwell: That was so good dude!
1549
01:39:06,467 --> 01:39:09,600
Jorgeson: And I still didn't do it.
1550
01:39:10,167 --> 01:39:15,667
Jorgeson: Tonight didn't go so well.
1551
01:39:18,633 --> 01:39:20,466
It was a battle and I didn't win.
1552
01:39:20,467 --> 01:39:26,233
I don't know what this means. I don't know if that's it?
1553
01:39:28,400 --> 01:39:30,232
Jorgeson: We repelled back to camp.
1554
01:39:30,233 --> 01:39:31,799
It was real quiet.
1555
01:39:31,800 --> 01:39:34,366
Tommy and I weren't talking.
1556
01:39:34,367 --> 01:39:39,167
I'm demoralized. I'm devastated. I'm beat to shit.
1557
01:39:41,367 --> 01:39:43,699
Jorgeson: I wanted to do that pitch so bad tonight.
1558
01:39:43,700 --> 01:39:46,199
Caldwell: I know. I wanted it too.
1559
01:39:46,200 --> 01:39:47,732
Jorgeson: I don't want to hold you back is the thing.
1560
01:39:47,733 --> 01:39:49,766
Caldwell: I’m definitely willing to wait for a while.
1561
01:39:49,767 --> 01:39:51,600
Jorgeson: Okay.
1562
01:39:54,433 --> 01:39:55,766
Jorgeson: I know I can do that pitch.
1563
01:39:55,767 --> 01:39:57,299
Caldwell: Yeah for sure.
1564
01:39:57,300 --> 01:40:01,300
Jorgeson: And I feel like if I can do that pitch I'm gonna be so fucking psyched.
1565
01:40:02,133 --> 01:40:05,100
There's nothing that's gonna stop me between there and the top.
1566
01:40:06,667 --> 01:40:08,366
Jorgeson: Tommy just said,
1567
01:40:08,367 --> 01:40:13,233
"I don't care how long it takes for you to send pitch 15.
1568
01:40:13,567 --> 01:40:15,667
We'll top out together."
1569
01:40:16,667 --> 01:40:19,266
Caldwell: We had worked on this thing together for seven years.
1570
01:40:19,267 --> 01:40:20,599
I had mentored Kevin.
1571
01:40:20,600 --> 01:40:22,866
I just tried to stay super optimistic.
1572
01:40:22,867 --> 01:40:28,232
But each day that I waited for Kevin there was a chance that weather could move in.
1573
01:40:28,233 --> 01:40:29,466
Living on the wall is rough.
1574
01:40:29,467 --> 01:40:32,199
I figured that just wall life would get me down
1575
01:40:32,200 --> 01:40:36,367
and I might not be able to do these pitches, which are almost as hard right afterwards.
1576
01:40:37,133 --> 01:40:39,366
Caldwell: While Kevin rested for two more days,
1577
01:40:39,367 --> 01:40:41,833
I decided to start working on pitch 16.
1578
01:40:42,233 --> 01:40:45,200
It's always been one of the biggest question marks on the whole wall.
1579
01:40:47,533 --> 01:40:50,466
Caldwell: When I first started looking for this climb up here seven years ago,
1580
01:40:50,467 --> 01:40:52,499
I had no idea where the route was going to go.
1581
01:40:52,500 --> 01:40:56,266
I spent the first two seasons alone just swinging around,
1582
01:40:56,267 --> 01:41:00,267
examining every inch of granite, looking for climbable features.
1583
01:41:00,367 --> 01:41:02,633
Caldwell: I don't know what's wrong with me but I love this shit.
1584
01:41:05,633 --> 01:41:09,632
Caldwell: Starting at the bottom of the wall there's a series of diagonal cracks
1585
01:41:09,633 --> 01:41:12,566
that go for a thousand feet, and then they end.
1586
01:41:12,567 --> 01:41:17,699
250 feet to the left of that there's another series of corners that angles up towards the top.
1587
01:41:17,700 --> 01:41:20,666
The traverse pitches 14 and 15
1588
01:41:20,667 --> 01:41:23,599
lead you across the face until the next crack system.
1589
01:41:23,600 --> 01:41:25,566
Well, almost.
1590
01:41:25,567 --> 01:41:28,832
There's this 8 foot blank section
1591
01:41:28,833 --> 01:41:30,432
completely smooth
1592
01:41:30,433 --> 01:41:32,833
nothing that you could even get your fingernails behind.
1593
01:41:33,733 --> 01:41:36,499
Caldwell: I had spent two years searching this whole route
1594
01:41:36,500 --> 01:41:38,400
and it came down to just 8 feet.
1595
01:41:49,600 --> 01:41:50,400
Caldwell: Nope, coming off.
1596
01:41:52,633 --> 01:41:55,432
Caldwell: You climb like 25 feet off the portaledge
1597
01:41:55,433 --> 01:41:58,433
and then you get to this last flake on the wall.
1598
01:41:59,767 --> 01:42:01,832
And all around you is total blankness.
1599
01:42:01,833 --> 01:42:05,799
The only feature is 8 feet left.
1600
01:42:05,800 --> 01:42:09,133
It just looks a million miles away.
1601
01:42:10,567 --> 01:42:14,567
But there was this spark of an idea that maybe, I could just jump.
1602
01:42:14,667 --> 01:42:16,767
Caldwell: (AHHH!)
1603
01:42:19,633 --> 01:42:22,199
Caldwell: I mean I'm not really very good at dyno-ing,
1604
01:42:22,200 --> 01:42:25,400
but I mean it seemed like the only way.
1605
01:42:27,100 --> 01:42:28,466
Caldwell: Oh, getting a little tired.
1606
01:42:28,467 --> 01:42:31,266
Caldwell: This is probably one of the craziest dynos I've ever tried
1607
01:42:31,267 --> 01:42:34,433
and it's right in the middle of El Cap so it's sick.
1608
01:42:37,500 --> 01:42:39,232
Caldwell: When Kevin started trying the dyno
1609
01:42:39,233 --> 01:42:40,733
he was doing really well on it.
1610
01:42:46,767 --> 01:42:48,267
It made me believe that it could be done.
1611
01:42:48,267 --> 01:42:48,533
(AHHHH!)
It made me believe that it could be done.
1612
01:42:48,533 --> 01:42:50,167
(AHHHH!)
1613
01:42:50,633 --> 01:42:53,266
Caldwell: In my mind this move was the last piece
1614
01:42:53,267 --> 01:42:56,366
to make this giant climb come together.
1615
01:42:56,367 --> 01:42:57,500
Caldwell: (AHHH!)
1616
01:42:59,100 --> 01:43:00,666
Caldwell: This incredibly violent move,
1617
01:43:00,667 --> 01:43:03,600
hucking yourself as hard as you can across the wall.
1618
01:43:05,267 --> 01:43:06,799
Caldwell: Really close!
1619
01:43:06,800 --> 01:43:08,132
Jorgeson: Oh, I sprained my ankle.
1620
01:43:08,133 --> 01:43:13,099
Caldwell: In 2011, Kevin sprained his ankle on the move and was out for the season.
1621
01:43:13,100 --> 01:43:14,167
Caldwell: You okay man?
1622
01:43:17,700 --> 01:43:21,867
Caldwell: In the off-season, I figured out a way to practice the move at home in Colorado.
1623
01:43:25,500 --> 01:43:29,367
I mapped out the move and built a wall specifically like that.
1624
01:43:30,433 --> 01:43:34,099
The distance from the starting hand hold to the finishing hand hold
1625
01:43:34,100 --> 01:43:38,633
is 101 inches, and the angle of the wall is 89 degrees.
1626
01:43:41,667 --> 01:43:44,232
Caldwell: I'd just go out there for two hours a day
1627
01:43:44,233 --> 01:43:45,767
and huck myself at this thing.
1628
01:43:50,567 --> 01:43:51,699
Becca would look at me and just just be like
1629
01:43:51,700 --> 01:43:54,633
"he's going insane, he's totally going insane!"
1630
01:43:57,233 --> 01:43:58,632
Becca: Oh, the dyno.
1631
01:43:58,633 --> 01:44:01,367
The dyno is Tommy's nemesis for sure.
1632
01:44:03,467 --> 01:44:06,432
He's been going out in snow storms, like windy, whatever.
1633
01:44:06,433 --> 01:44:08,866
It doesn't stop him.
1634
01:44:08,867 --> 01:44:11,800
He's committed.
1635
01:44:16,133 --> 01:44:18,532
Caldwell: I just gotta do it so I can do that every time
1636
01:44:18,533 --> 01:44:20,433
and then I gotta put on a smaller hold.
1637
01:44:25,700 --> 01:44:30,167
Caldwell: I had this feeling that I was literally just 8 feet from glory.
1638
01:44:37,833 --> 01:44:39,566
Jorgeson: How bad do you want it?
1639
01:44:39,567 --> 01:44:42,833
How much of a battle are you willing to have to do this pitch?
1640
01:44:44,833 --> 01:44:48,467
I'm gonna try again and I'm gonna succeed.
136492
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