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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:20,720 --> 00:00:27,403 This white wilderness, this emptiness is the North Pole. I'm 2 00:00:27,415 --> 00:00:33,780 standing in the middle of a frozen ocean. Beneath my feet 3 00:00:33,780 --> 00:00:39,074 and for over 500 miles in every direction there are several 4 00:00:39,086 --> 00:00:44,480 meters of ice. But something significant is likely to happen 5 00:00:44,480 --> 00:00:49,408 here at the North Pole soon. Chances are that sometime 6 00:00:49,420 --> 00:00:54,720 within the next few decades, perhaps even as soon as 2020, 7 00:00:55,580 --> 00:01:01,280 there will be open water here for the first time in human recorded history. 8 00:01:03,900 --> 00:01:07,773 The Arctic and Antarctic are changing. Enormous masses 9 00:01:07,785 --> 00:01:11,740 of ice that have been frozen for thousands of years are 10 00:01:11,740 --> 00:01:13,700 breaking apart and melting away. 11 00:01:27,360 --> 00:01:32,236 Ice scientists are going to extremes to find out exactly 12 00:01:32,248 --> 00:01:37,480 what's going on. For them, these are exciting times. But the 13 00:01:37,480 --> 00:01:42,600 transformation that's being seen here will be felt far beyond the polar wilderness. 14 00:01:48,580 --> 00:01:52,627 In this program, I'll be trying to understand what these 15 00:01:52,639 --> 00:01:56,840 changes mean not just to the wildlife and people that live 16 00:01:56,840 --> 00:01:59,900 around the poles, but to the whole planet. 17 00:02:11,640 --> 00:02:16,040 I'm starting my journey in the Arctic, the far north of our planet. 18 00:02:20,160 --> 00:02:24,141 It's still very cold outside by most people's standards, but 19 00:02:24,153 --> 00:02:28,080 the Arctic has been warming fast, twice as fast as the rest 20 00:02:28,080 --> 00:02:32,808 of our planet. My first mission is to find out what effect 21 00:02:32,820 --> 00:02:37,720 that's having on the animals, although first we have to find 22 00:02:37,720 --> 00:02:42,791 them. It's April in Svalbard. We're a thousand miles north 23 00:02:42,803 --> 00:02:47,800 the Arctic Circle in search of the region's top predator. 24 00:02:55,940 --> 00:03:00,980 We need to travel away from the land and out over the frozen sea. 25 00:03:17,800 --> 00:03:18,780 Over there. 26 00:03:22,260 --> 00:03:25,084 I'm with a Norwegian team which is giving the 27 00:03:25,096 --> 00:03:28,240 polar bears of Svalbard their yearly health check. 28 00:03:31,740 --> 00:03:35,560 She's under us now. Come round for a clean shot. 29 00:03:41,540 --> 00:03:46,398 The team works together to give an anesthetic injection from 30 00:03:46,410 --> 00:03:50,960 a dart gun without hurting the bear. It takes tremendous 31 00:03:50,960 --> 00:03:51,500 skill. 32 00:04:14,420 --> 00:04:19,470 Nobody likes to see a magnificent animal like a polar bear 33 00:04:19,482 --> 00:04:24,200 lolling about unconscious on the ice, but it's only by 34 00:04:24,200 --> 00:04:27,538 darting them in this way and keeping check on them year 35 00:04:27,550 --> 00:04:30,660 after year that we can be sure that we know what is 36 00:04:30,660 --> 00:04:34,638 happening to them and the population of polar bears as a 37 00:04:34,650 --> 00:04:38,780 whole. Over the last 30 years, many teams have been seeing 38 00:04:38,780 --> 00:04:42,050 the condition of their local bears deteriorate, 39 00:04:42,062 --> 00:04:44,660 although not every bear is suffering. 40 00:04:54,200 --> 00:05:02,062 How much? 96 here. And 102 here. 197. Is that good? It's not 41 00:05:02,074 --> 00:05:09,560 too bad. It's a bit above our reach, so she's a bear in a 42 00:05:09,560 --> 00:05:13,974 good condition for Svalbard to be. The trouble is that if 43 00:05:13,986 --> 00:05:18,640 this was underweight, she would be in trouble, not only from 44 00:05:18,640 --> 00:05:21,631 our own point of view, but from the point of view of 45 00:05:21,643 --> 00:05:24,760 our cubs, because an underweight female gives birth to 46 00:05:24,760 --> 00:05:28,479 underweight cubs and underweight cubs have a great 47 00:05:28,491 --> 00:05:32,660 problem of surviving their difficult first year in these 48 00:05:32,660 --> 00:05:37,389 circumstances. It can be minus 40 degrees centigrade when 49 00:05:37,401 --> 00:05:42,060 polar bear cubs emerge at the start of the Arctic spring 50 00:05:42,060 --> 00:05:44,360 from their dens where they were born. 51 00:05:56,700 --> 00:06:01,590 This mother hasn't eaten for half a year. She and her cubs 52 00:06:01,602 --> 00:06:06,420 need to fatten up fast over the next few months and their 53 00:06:06,420 --> 00:06:10,240 chances of survival depend on what's happening beneath their feet. 54 00:06:13,940 --> 00:06:17,574 These polar bears aren't walking on land. They're 55 00:06:17,586 --> 00:06:20,940 roaming across the frozen surface of the sea. 56 00:06:24,180 --> 00:06:28,100 And the bear's food lives under the ice. 57 00:06:40,500 --> 00:06:46,650 Ring seals are hunted by polar bears. In fact, in some 58 00:06:46,662 --> 00:06:53,160 parts polar bears eat almost nothing else, so it's fairly 59 00:06:53,160 --> 00:06:58,078 understandable that this little mother ring seal is 60 00:06:58,090 --> 00:07:03,400 looking at me now. She should be a little apprehensive. 61 00:07:06,400 --> 00:07:11,808 That pup of hers is only about three or four days old and 62 00:07:11,820 --> 00:07:17,520 the pup won't be able to swim for another two or three days. 63 00:07:19,620 --> 00:07:23,441 Seals have good reason to be nervous around their holes. 64 00:07:23,453 --> 00:07:27,420 They need the holes to breathe when the sea is frozen, but 65 00:07:27,420 --> 00:07:29,340 this makes them easy to find. 66 00:07:32,220 --> 00:07:36,500 Polar bears can sniff out seal holes even if they're covered in snow. 67 00:07:43,120 --> 00:07:45,320 Spring is the best hunting season. 68 00:07:47,980 --> 00:07:52,793 This mother's found a food store under the snow that was 69 00:07:52,805 --> 00:07:57,800 probably made by an Arctic fox. It's a time of plenty now, 70 00:07:58,040 --> 00:08:00,630 but the bear family need to make the best of it 71 00:08:00,642 --> 00:08:03,460 because the good times are about to come to an end. 72 00:08:08,680 --> 00:08:13,251 As the weather warms, the ice beneath the bear's feet starts 73 00:08:13,263 --> 00:08:17,620 to break up and then melt. And as the ice dwindles, so do 74 00:08:17,620 --> 00:08:20,000 the bear's chances of a successful hunt. 75 00:08:24,460 --> 00:08:27,013 Most of the ice is lost over the shallow 76 00:08:27,025 --> 00:08:29,840 coastal waters where most of the seals live. 77 00:08:35,220 --> 00:08:39,029 It's now summer and these bears have a choice. Take their 78 00:08:39,041 --> 00:08:43,060 chances on the shrinking ice floes or make for the safety of 79 00:08:43,060 --> 00:08:43,600 the land. 80 00:08:48,780 --> 00:08:51,700 It's a case of sink or swim. 81 00:08:59,040 --> 00:09:02,038 Bears have always gone hungry in the summer, but the length 82 00:09:02,050 --> 00:09:04,960 of time when there's enough ice for them to go hunting is 83 00:09:04,960 --> 00:09:07,680 getting shorter and shorter across much of the Arctic. 84 00:09:11,380 --> 00:09:16,488 This is hitting cubs particularly hard because they can't 85 00:09:16,500 --> 00:09:21,620 survive for as long without feeding as their mother. Cubs 86 00:09:21,620 --> 00:09:24,760 that were born underweight are at the greatest risk. 87 00:09:34,800 --> 00:09:37,337 This mother and her cubs may well not get another chance at 88 00:09:37,349 --> 00:09:39,940 hunting, but they do have a meal until the sea freezes again 89 00:09:39,940 --> 00:09:44,038 in winter. There's not much to eat on land and the fact is 90 00:09:44,050 --> 00:09:48,300 that the longer the cubs have to wait until the ice returns, 91 00:09:48,700 --> 00:09:50,840 the more likely they are to die. 92 00:09:54,160 --> 00:09:57,386 Longer summers with no ice are probably the main 93 00:09:57,398 --> 00:10:00,900 reason why many polar bear populations are dropping. 94 00:10:08,960 --> 00:10:12,178 To help monitor bears into the future, this female is 95 00:10:12,190 --> 00:10:15,600 being fitted with a radio collar to track her movements. 96 00:10:20,460 --> 00:10:25,168 It's an extraordinary sensation to be so close to such a 97 00:10:25,180 --> 00:10:29,900 powerful animal with luck carrying that collar. She will 98 00:10:29,900 --> 00:10:35,088 have more years to go yet and be telling us a great deal 99 00:10:35,100 --> 00:10:40,300 about herself and the rest of the race of polar bears as 100 00:10:40,300 --> 00:10:43,700 they face this very uncertain future. 101 00:10:50,920 --> 00:10:54,785 The future of the ice cover on the sea isn't just an issue 102 00:10:54,797 --> 00:10:58,740 for the animals. It's a big concern for the people who live 103 00:10:58,740 --> 00:11:02,280 in the Arctic and travel across the ice every day. 104 00:11:10,860 --> 00:11:16,580 David Ikakwalu is an Inuit from the village of Clyde River in the Canadian Far North. 105 00:11:22,460 --> 00:11:26,486 There are very few roads up here so David and his community 106 00:11:26,498 --> 00:11:30,200 like most Inuit people have always traveled across the 107 00:11:30,200 --> 00:11:31,360 frozen sea. 108 00:11:33,640 --> 00:11:36,996 Dog sleds are the safest way to get around because the 109 00:11:37,008 --> 00:11:40,620 dogs feel thin ice underfoot and won't lead travelers into 110 00:11:40,620 --> 00:11:41,520 trouble. 111 00:11:43,860 --> 00:11:48,280 Old timers like David know the ice as we know the streets in our local neighborhood. 112 00:11:53,180 --> 00:11:58,145 Every spring cracks have always formed in the same places 113 00:11:58,157 --> 00:12:03,220 at the same time. It's going to be big very soon after two 114 00:12:03,220 --> 00:12:08,525 weeks maybe. We'll be more open. But now cracks are 115 00:12:08,537 --> 00:12:14,160 appearing where they never did before so David and his 116 00:12:14,160 --> 00:12:19,113 friend Laimiki have taken on a new job. They are using 117 00:12:19,125 --> 00:12:24,360 special GPS units to record the position of new cracks or 118 00:12:24,360 --> 00:12:25,060 weak ice. 119 00:12:27,660 --> 00:12:31,139 These findings will be used by locals for their own safety 120 00:12:31,151 --> 00:12:34,760 but they're also being studied by ice scientists who want to 121 00:12:34,760 --> 00:12:37,900 predict how the ice will change in years to come. 122 00:12:46,200 --> 00:12:49,837 The Inuit are keen to know what the future holds too because 123 00:12:49,849 --> 00:12:53,080 they've seen with their own eyes the changes that the 124 00:12:53,080 --> 00:12:57,647 scientists have seen from space. This satellite photo from 125 00:12:57,659 --> 00:13:02,160 1980 shows the Arctic Ocean at the end of the summer when 126 00:13:02,160 --> 00:13:07,891 ice cover is at its minimum. Since then there's been a 30% 127 00:13:07,903 --> 00:13:13,840 drop in the area covered by ice. But these images can't tell 128 00:13:13,840 --> 00:13:19,320 us about changes to the most important factor, the thickness of the ice. 129 00:13:23,240 --> 00:13:27,003 Measuring thickness across the whole ocean was beyond 130 00:13:27,015 --> 00:13:31,280 scientists for many years until help came from an unexpected 131 00:13:31,280 --> 00:13:31,920 source. 132 00:13:48,240 --> 00:13:52,287 The Arctic Ocean is of huge military importance as it's 133 00:13:52,299 --> 00:13:56,140 the shortest route between North America and Russia. 134 00:14:01,820 --> 00:14:05,018 Since the late 1950s, British, US and Russian 135 00:14:05,030 --> 00:14:08,520 submarines have been patrolling the Arctic Ocean. 136 00:14:11,680 --> 00:14:15,006 But as well as looking out for enemy activity, they've 137 00:14:15,018 --> 00:14:18,660 also been measuring the thickness of the ice, critical when 138 00:14:18,660 --> 00:14:20,240 looking for a place to surface. 139 00:14:23,980 --> 00:14:26,911 When scientists got permission to look at the submarine 140 00:14:26,923 --> 00:14:29,760 crew's records, they discovered that the ice has been 141 00:14:29,760 --> 00:14:34,780 thinning fast. In fact, it's nearly halved in thickness since 1980. 142 00:14:39,460 --> 00:14:44,020 Across most of the Arctic Ocean there are now just a couple of meters of ice. 143 00:14:48,300 --> 00:14:52,755 It's so thin that it could melt away almost entirely in the 144 00:14:52,767 --> 00:14:57,160 summertime and that includes the ice at the North Pole. If 145 00:14:57,160 --> 00:15:00,588 current trends continue then there will be an open ocean 146 00:15:00,600 --> 00:15:04,160 here by summer's end sometime within the next few decades. 147 00:15:07,380 --> 00:15:10,876 So the days of the Arctic Ocean being covered by a 148 00:15:10,888 --> 00:15:14,740 continuous sheet of ice seem to be past. Whether or not 149 00:15:14,740 --> 00:15:18,760 that's a good or bad thing, of course, depends on your point of view. 150 00:15:22,840 --> 00:15:25,856 Nobody has had a better view of the changes to the Arctic 151 00:15:25,868 --> 00:15:29,000 Ocean than the people of Barrow, the most northerly town in 152 00:15:29,000 --> 00:15:32,918 Alaska. The people here have always survived by hunting on 153 00:15:32,930 --> 00:15:36,860 the frozen sea and they celebrate this at a festival every 154 00:15:36,860 --> 00:15:41,358 year. The blanket toss was once the best way to spot distant 155 00:15:41,370 --> 00:15:45,880 animals to hunt, as lifelong resident Lewis Brower explains. 156 00:15:46,960 --> 00:15:50,008 When we throw ourselves up into the blanket, you know, you 157 00:15:50,020 --> 00:15:53,080 get that much more of an awe of seeing further and further 158 00:15:53,080 --> 00:15:56,321 out. So sometimes you'll jump 15, 20 feet in the air and 159 00:15:56,333 --> 00:15:59,700 hopefully you're being caught right back into the blanket. 160 00:16:05,620 --> 00:16:09,528 But the old way of life is under threat. When Lewis was 161 00:16:09,540 --> 00:16:13,600 young the sea stayed frozen to the horizon until July and 162 00:16:13,600 --> 00:16:17,384 some ice remained offshore all summer. But now it's breaking 163 00:16:17,396 --> 00:16:20,880 up in June and melting away completely for two or three 164 00:16:20,880 --> 00:16:25,548 months. I used to go out on the ice all the time this time 165 00:16:25,560 --> 00:16:30,320 of the year but we can't do that anymore because there's no 166 00:16:30,320 --> 00:16:35,778 more no more ice. Lewis can also see that the loss of sea 167 00:16:35,790 --> 00:16:41,260 ice is affecting the animals he hunts for a living. Since 168 00:16:41,260 --> 00:16:44,753 2007 something very strange has been happening 169 00:16:44,765 --> 00:16:48,120 on the stretch of coastline close to Barrow. 170 00:16:51,560 --> 00:16:56,001 Mother walruses, confused by the lack of ice, are crowding 171 00:16:56,013 --> 00:17:00,240 onto the land with their pups. This very tight crowding 172 00:17:00,240 --> 00:17:04,400 isn't normal and it's caused many youngsters to be crushed to death. 173 00:17:07,320 --> 00:17:10,196 Many Arctic animals are threatened by the changing 174 00:17:10,208 --> 00:17:13,380 conditions and that's also bad news for the traditional 175 00:17:13,380 --> 00:17:18,380 hunters. But the ice loss could be good news for some people. 176 00:17:23,160 --> 00:17:26,757 There are trillions of dollars worth of oil and gas under 177 00:17:26,769 --> 00:17:30,440 the Arctic Ocean but the only way to get to them until now 178 00:17:30,440 --> 00:17:34,673 has been by building expensive artificial islands like this. 179 00:17:34,685 --> 00:17:38,860 But if the sea ice goes it will be much easier to drill for 180 00:17:38,860 --> 00:17:42,340 the huge riches below so the countries that surround 181 00:17:42,352 --> 00:17:45,580 the Arctic are scrambling to stake their claims. 182 00:17:56,420 --> 00:18:01,069 This daring attempt by the Russians to claim the disputed 183 00:18:01,081 --> 00:18:05,500 seabed at the North Pole in 2007 caused fury among the 184 00:18:05,500 --> 00:18:09,200 competing countries and it's unlikely to be the last such dispute. 185 00:18:11,940 --> 00:18:16,660 The Arctic has never been so important and not just because of its resources. 186 00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:23,097 The Northwest Passage, a legendary sea route around the 187 00:18:23,109 --> 00:18:26,440 north of Canada and Alaska, cleared of ice in the summer of 188 00:18:26,440 --> 00:18:31,177 2007 for the first time since records began. This promises a 189 00:18:31,189 --> 00:18:35,860 much faster and cheaper shipping route between the Atlantic 190 00:18:35,860 --> 00:18:37,420 and Pacific Oceans. 191 00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:44,980 And some wildlife could benefit from an ice-free Arctic too. 192 00:18:50,660 --> 00:18:54,078 Bowhead whales are one of just a few whales that can live 193 00:18:54,090 --> 00:18:57,520 year-round in the Arctic because they have no dorsal fin. 194 00:18:59,380 --> 00:19:03,934 This means they can come up for air in small spaces and 195 00:19:03,946 --> 00:19:08,920 travel easily under the ice. Their unique body shape used to 196 00:19:08,920 --> 00:19:12,650 mean that the Arctic whales have the seas to themselves for 197 00:19:12,662 --> 00:19:16,280 most of the year but now some cousins from down south are 198 00:19:16,280 --> 00:19:16,860 moving in. 199 00:19:24,280 --> 00:19:27,827 Killer whales are now a much more common sight in the 200 00:19:27,839 --> 00:19:31,860 Arctic. Their tall fins make it difficult for them to travel 201 00:19:31,860 --> 00:19:35,429 under ice but the longer summers mean they can travel much 202 00:19:35,441 --> 00:19:38,900 farther north and make the most of the rich Arctic seas. 203 00:19:46,860 --> 00:19:49,683 For animals and people, it will be those who 204 00:19:49,695 --> 00:19:52,720 can adapt who will thrive in a changing Arctic. 205 00:20:01,380 --> 00:20:04,734 But the loss of sea ice isn't just an issue for the Arctic 206 00:20:04,746 --> 00:20:07,940 because the state of the ice affects the climate of the 207 00:20:07,940 --> 00:20:08,720 whole planet. 208 00:20:12,100 --> 00:20:16,488 Because it's white, the ice reflects up to 90% of the sun's 209 00:20:16,500 --> 00:20:20,680 energy. This is called the albedo effect and it's why we 210 00:20:20,680 --> 00:20:24,380 often see heat haze in the Arctic even when the air feels cold. 211 00:20:31,420 --> 00:20:35,999 The frozen Arctic Ocean acts as a huge reflector bouncing 212 00:20:36,011 --> 00:20:40,760 back the sun's heat into space. Throughout history that has 213 00:20:40,760 --> 00:20:46,260 helped to cool the planet but when the ice melts it's a different story. 214 00:20:51,720 --> 00:20:56,345 Because sea water is dark it absorbs most of the sun's 215 00:20:56,357 --> 00:21:01,500 heat. In the Arctic this can trigger a chain reaction as the 216 00:21:01,500 --> 00:21:06,220 warming water melts more ice exposing more water to the sun's heat. 217 00:21:11,280 --> 00:21:15,191 This cycle of warming as huge areas start to absorb rather 218 00:21:15,203 --> 00:21:18,860 than reflect heat is the main reason why the Arctic, a 219 00:21:18,860 --> 00:21:21,664 region the size of North America, is warming 220 00:21:21,676 --> 00:21:24,180 twice as fast as the rest of the Earth. 221 00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:32,748 So melting sea ice is a big issue but there's another kind 222 00:21:32,760 --> 00:21:36,200 of ice that could have an even more dramatic impact on our 223 00:21:36,200 --> 00:21:38,467 world. The Arctic is a place where the Arctic is the most 224 00:21:38,479 --> 00:21:40,640 important in the world. The ice that is found on land. 225 00:21:43,260 --> 00:21:49,000 This is freshwater ice formed from thousands of years of accumulated snowfall. 226 00:21:55,320 --> 00:22:00,005 This is the front of the glacier, quite a small one believe 227 00:22:00,017 --> 00:22:04,480 it or not. Glaciers are like rivers of frozen freshwater 228 00:22:04,480 --> 00:22:09,505 flowing across the surface of the land. This one like most 229 00:22:09,517 --> 00:22:14,640 polar glaciers is flowing down from a vast inland ice sheet 230 00:22:14,640 --> 00:22:19,317 and it's what happens to those ice sheets that could 231 00:22:19,329 --> 00:22:24,460 radically alter the face of the planet. The Greenland ice 232 00:22:24,460 --> 00:22:28,252 sheet is by far the largest in the Arctic. It's two miles 233 00:22:28,264 --> 00:22:31,740 thick in places and six times the size of the United 234 00:22:31,740 --> 00:22:32,220 Kingdom. 235 00:22:39,280 --> 00:22:44,391 Every summer some of the surface of the ice sheet melts 236 00:22:44,403 --> 00:22:49,800 forming sapphire blue lakes of meltwater. More and more of 237 00:22:49,800 --> 00:22:54,004 these lakes have been forming as Greenland has warmed over 238 00:22:54,016 --> 00:22:58,160 the last 20 years. This lake has grown over several weeks 239 00:22:58,160 --> 00:23:02,180 and now it's overflowing carving a deep channel through the ice. 240 00:23:08,720 --> 00:23:11,935 A network of channels crisscrosses the ice 241 00:23:11,947 --> 00:23:15,400 sheet but many of them come to an abrupt end. 242 00:23:26,440 --> 00:23:31,700 Huge holes like this can open up quite suddenly, draining the meltwater away. 243 00:23:43,560 --> 00:23:47,948 Alan Hubbard is a glaciologist studying the enormous power 244 00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:52,360 of these waterfalls which are known as moolands. We've got 245 00:23:52,360 --> 00:23:56,729 this amazing mooland going on here today. The water is 246 00:23:56,741 --> 00:24:01,520 overflowing from the lake which is beginning to drain. Tons 247 00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:05,672 of water cascading down this pipe that is effectively 248 00:24:05,684 --> 00:24:10,080 plummeting to the depths of the ice sheet through over a 249 00:24:10,080 --> 00:24:11,940 kilometer of vertical ice. 250 00:24:19,560 --> 00:24:23,366 Alan is here to study where the meltwater goes and what 251 00:24:23,378 --> 00:24:27,400 effect it has on the remaining ice. To do that he needs to 252 00:24:27,400 --> 00:24:30,200 find a mooland that has recently run dry. 253 00:24:36,440 --> 00:24:40,976 Just a week ago there was a three mile long 10 meter deep 254 00:24:40,988 --> 00:24:45,380 lake here. The weight of all that water cracked the ice 255 00:24:45,380 --> 00:24:49,570 beneath and the lake drained in just a few hours with incredible force. 256 00:24:55,280 --> 00:24:59,120 A thousand ton ice boulders were tossed about like dice. 257 00:25:06,600 --> 00:25:09,439 Alan's team have found the hole down which the lake 258 00:25:09,451 --> 00:25:12,740 disappeared and they want to have a closer look. It's not a 259 00:25:12,740 --> 00:25:15,200 job for anyone with a fear of heights. 260 00:25:21,440 --> 00:25:24,638 As you can see it's dry up here but if you listen you can 261 00:25:24,650 --> 00:25:27,860 hear the thunder of there's a lot of water entering it at 262 00:25:27,860 --> 00:25:32,151 some depth. Alan wants to place a sensor deep into the 263 00:25:32,163 --> 00:25:36,700 mooland to discover how much water is flowing through the 264 00:25:36,700 --> 00:25:37,460 ice. 265 00:25:42,900 --> 00:25:48,291 As they drop they travel back in time. 30 meters down and 266 00:25:48,303 --> 00:25:53,800 they reach ice formed from snow that fell 10,000 years ago 267 00:25:53,800 --> 00:25:55,240 in the last ice age. 268 00:25:57,920 --> 00:26:03,444 When this lake drained and the plug got pulled and the whole 269 00:26:03,456 --> 00:26:08,720 lot flushed down through here this ice sheet it rose by a 270 00:26:08,720 --> 00:26:13,138 meter as that water accessed the bed and force jacked up the 271 00:26:13,150 --> 00:26:17,580 ice sheet. So we know that the water and this whole plumbing 272 00:26:17,580 --> 00:26:21,761 cavity system down here we know that shoots straight through 273 00:26:21,773 --> 00:26:25,760 the ice and actually hits the bed of the ice sheet. We've 274 00:26:25,760 --> 00:26:30,340 hit the water, can see the water now. Great, nice work. 275 00:26:33,200 --> 00:26:36,877 This daring experiment is measuring how the water flowing 276 00:26:36,889 --> 00:26:40,260 under the ice sheet affects the speed with which the 277 00:26:40,260 --> 00:26:44,006 glaciers flow from it down to the sea. The theory is that 278 00:26:44,018 --> 00:26:47,840 the water is acting as a lubricant so the more water there 279 00:26:47,840 --> 00:26:54,778 is the faster the glacier flows. To the naked eye, glaciers 280 00:26:54,790 --> 00:27:01,740 don't appear to move at all, but move they do. These unique 281 00:27:01,740 --> 00:27:05,660 time lapse images were captured over the last four years. 282 00:27:15,840 --> 00:27:20,314 Through long observations we now know that Greenland's ice 283 00:27:20,326 --> 00:27:24,660 is flowing down to the sea twice as quickly as it was 20 284 00:27:24,660 --> 00:27:29,024 years ago. The speed of the glaciers affects our sea levels 285 00:27:29,036 --> 00:27:33,120 because when they reach the water they break apart into 286 00:27:33,120 --> 00:27:38,240 icebergs. Occasionally a real mega-burg is born. 287 00:27:46,620 --> 00:27:50,740 This is the store glacier in May 2010. 288 00:28:19,760 --> 00:28:37,280 This is the store glacier in May 2010. This is the 289 00:28:37,280 --> 00:28:44,640 store glacier 290 00:28:44,640 --> 00:28:48,956 in May 2010. 75 million tons of ice that have been 291 00:28:48,968 --> 00:28:53,720 sitting on land for thousands of years has broken away. 292 00:28:57,960 --> 00:29:01,363 Events like this have become increasingly common 293 00:29:01,375 --> 00:29:04,860 as Greenland's glaciers flow faster into the sea. 294 00:29:17,920 --> 00:29:22,348 Every single one of these icebergs raises the sea level a 295 00:29:22,360 --> 00:29:26,800 small amount. Scientists monitoring the ice sheet predict 296 00:29:26,800 --> 00:29:30,387 that Greenland might add as much as a half meter to world 297 00:29:30,399 --> 00:29:34,060 sea levels by the end of the century, enough to swamp many 298 00:29:34,060 --> 00:29:36,040 of the world's low-lying islands. 299 00:29:57,820 --> 00:30:02,518 99% of the Arctic's freshwater ice is in Greenland. It's a 300 00:30:02,530 --> 00:30:07,400 staggeringly big ice sheet but it's just a drop in the ocean 301 00:30:07,400 --> 00:30:11,200 compared to that at the southern end of our planet. 302 00:30:18,980 --> 00:30:23,106 In Antarctica there is 10 times more ice, by 303 00:30:23,118 --> 00:30:27,440 far the largest concentration of ice on Earth. 304 00:30:32,260 --> 00:30:37,680 Our exploration of the Antarctic only began a little over a hundred years ago. 305 00:30:43,280 --> 00:30:46,782 The study of ice retreat here was unwittingly begun on 306 00:30:46,794 --> 00:30:50,180 an expedition led by the great early explorer Ernest 307 00:30:50,180 --> 00:30:50,640 Shackleton. 308 00:30:55,680 --> 00:31:00,498 In 1916, after their expedition boat was crushed and sunk by 309 00:31:00,510 --> 00:31:05,340 ice, Shackleton and two companions set off to summon help in 310 00:31:05,340 --> 00:31:06,220 a tiny boat. 311 00:31:09,180 --> 00:31:13,068 They sailed over 800 miles across the Southern Ocean to 312 00:31:13,080 --> 00:31:17,120 the island of South Georgia on the edge of the Antarctic. 313 00:31:20,720 --> 00:31:23,980 Near starving and dressed in rags, the three men walked 314 00:31:23,992 --> 00:31:27,380 across the ice sheet at the center of the island, knowing 315 00:31:27,380 --> 00:31:31,460 there was a wailing base on the opposite coast where they could summon help. 316 00:31:38,860 --> 00:31:43,898 This team of Royal Marines is retracing the steps of that 317 00:31:43,910 --> 00:31:48,960 journey in tribute to Shackleton and his men. But for all 318 00:31:48,960 --> 00:31:51,557 their efforts, they can't exactly copy the 319 00:31:51,569 --> 00:31:54,300 Great Walk because the ice is not as it was. 320 00:31:57,400 --> 00:32:01,745 A number of South Georgia's glaciers were photographed by 321 00:32:01,757 --> 00:32:06,340 Shackleton's cameraman. Frozen planets saw a dramatic change 322 00:32:06,340 --> 00:32:09,300 when they returned 94 years later. 323 00:32:26,860 --> 00:32:30,248 Most of South Georgia's glaciers have shrunk since 324 00:32:30,260 --> 00:32:34,060 Shackleton's time, and most of that has happened since I 325 00:32:34,060 --> 00:32:38,490 first went to the Antarctic 30 years ago. I've been to South 326 00:32:38,502 --> 00:32:42,580 Georgia several times and seen how greatly the glaciers 327 00:32:42,580 --> 00:32:43,900 there have changed. 328 00:32:48,620 --> 00:32:53,745 This photograph of a glacier reaching right down to the sea 329 00:32:53,757 --> 00:32:58,980 was taken just six years before I first visited in 1981. Now 330 00:32:58,980 --> 00:33:03,520 that glacier has retreated by 400 meters away from the beach. 331 00:33:09,080 --> 00:33:12,479 Temperatures in South Georgia have risen sharply, but the 332 00:33:12,491 --> 00:33:15,960 southern hemisphere's most dramatic warming has happened a 333 00:33:15,960 --> 00:33:20,020 little further south. In recent years, stronger winds 334 00:33:20,032 --> 00:33:24,480 blowing over the southern ocean have brought warmer air to 335 00:33:24,480 --> 00:33:27,368 the 800-mile-long finger of land that forms the 336 00:33:27,380 --> 00:33:30,220 northern extremity of the Antarctic continent. 337 00:33:36,780 --> 00:33:40,711 Here on the Antarctic Peninsula, the changing wind patterns 338 00:33:40,723 --> 00:33:44,600 have driven temperatures up by nearly 3 degrees Centigrade 339 00:33:44,600 --> 00:33:49,920 over the last 50 years, 10 times the average rate of the rest of the planet. 340 00:33:55,960 --> 00:34:00,680 The rapid warming is having a big effect on the bird life. 341 00:34:15,620 --> 00:34:21,403 The daily penguin is the most southerly nesting of all 342 00:34:21,415 --> 00:34:27,420 penguins. And like the polar bear up in the north, their 343 00:34:27,420 --> 00:34:32,758 lives are dependent on the sea ice. A daly spent their whole 344 00:34:32,770 --> 00:34:38,120 lives near ice. These birds have spent the winter feeding at 345 00:34:38,120 --> 00:34:41,052 the ice edge, but now it's spring and they've 346 00:34:41,064 --> 00:34:44,520 started a long trek over the frozen sea towards land. 347 00:34:52,880 --> 00:34:57,184 They're heading for areas of exposed rock where they gather 348 00:34:57,196 --> 00:35:01,080 to breed in colonies that can be over 100,000 strong. 349 00:35:17,360 --> 00:35:22,458 But it seems that a daly's don't find the conditions on the 350 00:35:22,470 --> 00:35:27,580 peninsula to their liking anymore. 17 years ago, when I was 351 00:35:27,580 --> 00:35:32,451 last in the Antarctic, there were large colonies of a daly 352 00:35:32,463 --> 00:35:37,180 penguins all along the Antarctic Peninsula. Now, warming 353 00:35:37,180 --> 00:35:44,000 temperatures have meant less sea ice and a daly penguin numbers are in decline. 354 00:35:52,600 --> 00:35:55,560 Many colonies have been empty and fast. 355 00:35:59,740 --> 00:36:03,115 It may be that penguins are starving or it may be that 356 00:36:03,127 --> 00:36:06,760 they're heading south to colder climes where there's still 357 00:36:06,760 --> 00:36:08,440 plenty of ice on the sea. 358 00:36:17,480 --> 00:36:21,664 But as in the Arctic, while ice-loving animals are feeling 359 00:36:21,676 --> 00:36:25,800 the heat, animals that like it a bit more cosy are moving 360 00:36:25,800 --> 00:36:26,820 in. 361 00:36:33,700 --> 00:36:37,938 The bright orange beaks of gentoo penguins are a much more 362 00:36:37,950 --> 00:36:42,200 common sight on the peninsula these days. I always used to 363 00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:45,257 know them as residents of the slightly warmer islands 364 00:36:45,269 --> 00:36:48,680 north of the Antarctic, but they've moved south in numbers. 365 00:36:50,420 --> 00:36:53,414 They're thought to be 10 times more gentoos 366 00:36:53,426 --> 00:36:56,500 on the peninsula now than just 30 years ago. 367 00:37:05,240 --> 00:37:10,900 The peninsula has warmed a great deal, but the same is not true further south. 368 00:37:15,260 --> 00:37:19,988 The Antarctic continent is smothered by the world's greatest 369 00:37:20,000 --> 00:37:24,740 ice sheet, one and a half times the size of Australia and up 370 00:37:24,740 --> 00:37:26,540 to three miles thick. 371 00:37:29,400 --> 00:37:34,540 A staggering 75% of the Earth's fresh water is locked up in this ice. 372 00:37:39,340 --> 00:37:45,040 Global sea levels would rise by some 60 metres if all this was to melt. 373 00:37:48,500 --> 00:37:51,987 But what chance is there of that happening here 374 00:37:51,999 --> 00:37:55,280 in the coldest, most hostile place on Earth? 375 00:38:00,260 --> 00:38:05,692 The ice beneath me up here on top of the ice cap is so thick 376 00:38:05,704 --> 00:38:10,880 that I am short of breath simply because of the altitude. 377 00:38:11,400 --> 00:38:16,931 This is midsummer and the average temperature is some 20 378 00:38:16,943 --> 00:38:22,680 degrees below freezing. I can tell you it feels much lower 379 00:38:22,680 --> 00:38:28,954 than that. And even the worst predictions don't suggest that 380 00:38:28,966 --> 00:38:34,840 the air is going to warm enough to melt the ice. But now 381 00:38:34,840 --> 00:38:39,608 scientists are asking a different question. Could the speed 382 00:38:39,620 --> 00:38:44,320 at which the Antarctic ice flows off the land be increased 383 00:38:44,320 --> 00:38:48,800 by a warmer ocean? Where the ice sheet meets the sea, 384 00:38:48,812 --> 00:38:53,220 scientists are going to extreme lengths to find out. 385 00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:10,695 Andy Smith works for the British Antarctic Survey. What we 386 00:39:10,707 --> 00:39:15,020 have here is a one kilogram of pentelite explosive. We're 387 00:39:15,020 --> 00:39:18,178 going to use this to generate a shockwave and record 388 00:39:18,190 --> 00:39:21,240 the echoes that come back from underneath the ice. 389 00:39:25,940 --> 00:39:30,456 Andy is particularly interested in mapping the underside of 390 00:39:30,468 --> 00:39:34,920 the ice around the coast. Because here it isn't resting on 391 00:39:34,920 --> 00:39:39,420 land, it's floating on seawater. So if sea temperatures 392 00:39:39,432 --> 00:39:43,380 rise just a little, it can be melted from below. 393 00:39:45,960 --> 00:39:49,508 Around the coast of Antarctica, the glaciers have flowed out 394 00:39:49,520 --> 00:39:53,080 across the sea to form immense masses of floating freshwater 395 00:39:53,080 --> 00:39:55,820 ice called ice shelves. 396 00:39:59,860 --> 00:40:03,414 These freeze to the land around them, sticking fast and 397 00:40:03,426 --> 00:40:06,800 acting like bath plugs, holding back the flow of the 398 00:40:06,800 --> 00:40:08,100 glaciers into the sea. 399 00:40:11,400 --> 00:40:15,036 On the Antarctic peninsula, a one degree sea temperature 400 00:40:15,048 --> 00:40:18,760 rise has helped to break apart seven major ice shelves in 401 00:40:18,760 --> 00:40:23,838 the last 30 years. This is the Larson B ice shelf, three 402 00:40:23,850 --> 00:40:28,940 times the size of Greater London breaking apart in 2002. 403 00:40:31,020 --> 00:40:33,858 Afterwards, the glaciers it had been holding 404 00:40:33,870 --> 00:40:36,720 back started flowing up to six times faster. 405 00:40:40,160 --> 00:40:44,918 In 2008, a much larger ice shelf at the southern end of the 406 00:40:44,930 --> 00:40:49,780 peninsula started to break up. It's an enormous event that's 407 00:40:49,780 --> 00:40:51,300 never been filmed before. 408 00:40:54,340 --> 00:40:58,432 Andy Smith is flying down the peninsula to study this 409 00:40:58,444 --> 00:41:03,080 phenomenon firsthand. We're flying to a place called Wilkins 410 00:41:03,080 --> 00:41:06,913 Ice Shelf. It's an ice shelf that over the last couple 411 00:41:06,925 --> 00:41:10,840 of years has showed a very sudden and dramatic breakup. 412 00:41:13,260 --> 00:41:17,054 The Wilkins Ice Shelf is a two hour long flight south from 413 00:41:17,066 --> 00:41:21,000 his research base. But Andy can start to see the evidence of 414 00:41:21,000 --> 00:41:24,758 ice shelf breakup a long way before he gets there. As we're 415 00:41:24,770 --> 00:41:28,540 heading further south, we can see more and more icebergs in 416 00:41:28,540 --> 00:41:31,203 the ocean. And most of the big ones will be ones 417 00:41:31,215 --> 00:41:34,000 that have broken off the ice shelves in this area. 418 00:41:39,940 --> 00:41:42,711 Once we cross the mountains, we should be able to see 419 00:41:42,723 --> 00:41:45,660 Wilkins Ice Shelf. And then it's not far then to the ice 420 00:41:45,660 --> 00:41:47,020 front here where it's collapsing. 421 00:41:59,320 --> 00:42:03,033 As Andy's team reaches their destination, the scale of 422 00:42:03,045 --> 00:42:07,040 what's been happening sooner Here, for thousands of years, 423 00:42:07,260 --> 00:42:12,520 an area the size of Yorkshire has been covered by a sheet of ice 200 metres thick. 424 00:42:17,080 --> 00:42:20,320 But now, over half of that has broken apart. 425 00:42:35,400 --> 00:42:39,730 Andy has been studying Antarctic ice for 25 years, but 426 00:42:39,742 --> 00:42:44,320 even he is blown away by what he's seeing. That is pretty 427 00:42:44,320 --> 00:42:48,831 awesome. That is remarkable. The edge of the ice shelf has 428 00:42:48,843 --> 00:42:53,520 just kind of disintegrated. Some of the big pieces look like 429 00:42:53,520 --> 00:42:58,464 they could be a mile or more in size. It's almost like a 430 00:42:58,476 --> 00:43:03,780 sort of a slow motion explosion. It all pushes outwards very 431 00:43:03,780 --> 00:43:04,300 quickly. 432 00:43:12,080 --> 00:43:16,860 Every one of these huge icebergs will slowly drift out to sea. 433 00:43:21,380 --> 00:43:25,480 To study how fast that happens, Andy needs to get closer 434 00:43:25,492 --> 00:43:29,820 to the action. We're going to look around and see if we can 435 00:43:29,820 --> 00:43:33,273 find a place where we can land. But if we can, we'll be able 436 00:43:33,285 --> 00:43:36,580 to put on an instrument that will help us monitor the big 437 00:43:36,580 --> 00:43:39,160 icebergs that are breaking off as the ice shelf breaks up. 438 00:43:47,600 --> 00:43:51,960 Landing on an iceberg is another first for Andy's team. 439 00:44:05,700 --> 00:44:08,946 This satellite transmitter will help to track 440 00:44:08,958 --> 00:44:12,500 the continued breakup of this colossal ice shelf. 441 00:44:24,900 --> 00:44:29,740 The remainder of the Wilkins looks set to break apart soon. 442 00:44:33,400 --> 00:44:36,888 It's the latest ice shelf to disintegrate in a wave that's 443 00:44:36,900 --> 00:44:40,460 been traveling southwards, playing a major role in the loss 444 00:44:40,460 --> 00:44:41,820 of ice from the peninsula. 445 00:44:44,420 --> 00:44:46,499 Next in line, and already weakening in place, is the first 446 00:44:46,511 --> 00:44:48,460 ice shelf to disintegrate. The only places are the ice 447 00:44:48,460 --> 00:44:52,852 shelves that hold back Antarctica's gigantic continental 448 00:44:52,864 --> 00:44:57,500 ice sheet. And it would only take a small corner of this to 449 00:44:57,500 --> 00:45:01,300 slide into the sea to have major global consequences. 450 00:45:04,800 --> 00:45:07,927 We've only started to see changes in the Arctic and 451 00:45:07,939 --> 00:45:11,380 Antarctic recently, so it's hard to predict exactly what 452 00:45:11,380 --> 00:45:15,404 impact these changes will have. But we can see for ourselves 453 00:45:15,416 --> 00:45:19,320 that these places are changing and on a scale that is hard 454 00:45:19,320 --> 00:45:20,120 to ignore. 455 00:45:23,260 --> 00:45:28,145 The poles, north and south, may seem very remote. But what 456 00:45:28,157 --> 00:45:33,220 is happening here is likely to have a greater effect upon us 457 00:45:33,220 --> 00:45:37,646 than any other aspect of global warming. If the Arctic sea 458 00:45:37,658 --> 00:45:42,020 ice continues to disappear, it will drive up the planet's 459 00:45:42,020 --> 00:45:45,510 temperature more quickly. And the melting ice sheets 460 00:45:45,522 --> 00:45:49,420 could contribute to a sea level rise of a meter, enough to 461 00:45:49,420 --> 00:45:53,808 threaten the homes of millions of people around the world's 462 00:45:53,820 --> 00:45:57,780 coasts by the end of the century. We've seen that the 463 00:45:57,780 --> 00:46:02,645 animals are already adapting to these changes. But can 464 00:46:02,657 --> 00:46:07,800 we respond to what is happening now to the frozen planet? 465 00:46:45,440 --> 00:46:48,721 The Ice The increasing unpredictability of the ice was a 466 00:46:48,733 --> 00:46:52,200 big issue for the frozen planet team, who spent three years 467 00:46:52,200 --> 00:46:53,680 working on top of it. 468 00:47:01,040 --> 00:47:04,595 Whether on sea, land, lake or river, the state of 469 00:47:04,607 --> 00:47:08,460 the ice was the first concern for most filming crews. 470 00:47:14,260 --> 00:47:18,790 Unexpected breakups left many a cameraman in need of a swift 471 00:47:18,802 --> 00:47:23,120 rescue. Sometimes help came by boat and sometimes by air. 472 00:47:29,840 --> 00:47:34,404 The North Pole I had a chance to see the changing ice 473 00:47:34,416 --> 00:47:39,500 conditions for myself when I visited the North Pole. I flew 474 00:47:39,500 --> 00:47:42,857 with the team to a temporary camp that is set up every 475 00:47:42,869 --> 00:47:46,360 year in the center of the frozen Arctic Ocean to support 476 00:47:46,360 --> 00:47:47,860 expeditions to the pole. 477 00:47:52,760 --> 00:47:56,650 The North Pole I had never visited the North Pole before, so 478 00:47:56,662 --> 00:48:00,500 this was a great highlight for me. But it was hard going in 479 00:48:00,500 --> 00:48:05,116 temperatures of minus 40, so as soon as filming finished, we 480 00:48:05,128 --> 00:48:09,680 flew south. Little did we know that we had made it out just 481 00:48:09,680 --> 00:48:14,991 in time. We got back from the pole camp last night and I've 482 00:48:15,003 --> 00:48:20,060 just bumped into the Russian commander, who's just heard 483 00:48:20,060 --> 00:48:24,405 from the camp. And the news is that a little crack, which 484 00:48:24,417 --> 00:48:29,000 I'd seen in the ice between our tent and the airstrip, which 485 00:48:29,000 --> 00:48:34,021 was no more than an inch or so wide, has overnight widened 486 00:48:34,033 --> 00:48:38,980 to 20 meters. Temporary breakups caused by stormy weather 487 00:48:38,980 --> 00:48:42,106 and strong winds have happened before, but they've been 488 00:48:42,118 --> 00:48:45,480 getting more and more frequent over recent years as the ice 489 00:48:45,480 --> 00:48:46,340 has got weaker. 490 00:48:50,400 --> 00:48:53,453 It was only swift action by the staff that prevented 491 00:48:53,465 --> 00:48:56,240 a lot of valuable equipment going in the drink. 492 00:49:03,620 --> 00:49:07,371 The biggest concern was that the ice airstrip might break 493 00:49:07,383 --> 00:49:11,340 apart, but luckily it held and everyone was able to evacuate 494 00:49:11,340 --> 00:49:12,780 when the weather improved. 495 00:49:17,760 --> 00:49:21,428 The frozen planet team's clearest demonstration of the power 496 00:49:21,440 --> 00:49:25,060 and unpredictability of breaking ice came when they went to 497 00:49:25,060 --> 00:49:29,072 film the melting of a frozen planet. Producer Mark Linfield 498 00:49:29,084 --> 00:49:32,840 and researcher Matt Swarbrick have travelled to the far 499 00:49:32,840 --> 00:49:33,920 north of Canada. 500 00:49:40,400 --> 00:49:43,537 They've driven through the vast northwest territory on a 501 00:49:43,549 --> 00:49:46,920 mission to film the moment when this frozen waterfall breaks 502 00:49:46,920 --> 00:49:47,520 apart. 503 00:49:51,220 --> 00:49:54,676 The breakup, when the frozen river above the waterfall 504 00:49:54,688 --> 00:49:58,220 thaws and masses of water start to flow again, can be a 505 00:49:58,220 --> 00:50:01,808 spectacular event. But predicting exactly when it's going to 506 00:50:01,820 --> 00:50:05,360 break is the big challenge if Mark and Matt want to get the 507 00:50:05,360 --> 00:50:06,040 best shots. 508 00:50:09,020 --> 00:50:12,071 And they're not the only ones who want to know. When the 509 00:50:12,083 --> 00:50:15,200 waterfall breaks, it can flood the town of Hay River just 510 00:50:15,200 --> 00:50:19,672 downstream with millions of tons of water and ice. Mark is 511 00:50:19,684 --> 00:50:24,320 taking advice from the scientist Faye Hicks, who has the job 512 00:50:24,320 --> 00:50:27,540 of predicting when the ice will break. What happens is you 513 00:50:27,552 --> 00:50:30,620 get ice jams form upstream and they start to dam up the 514 00:50:30,620 --> 00:50:33,984 water and it builds and builds and builds and that can let 515 00:50:33,996 --> 00:50:37,200 go and that's a much bigger wave of water than just the 516 00:50:37,200 --> 00:50:41,040 normal flow. So it just depends upon how dramatically it 517 00:50:41,052 --> 00:50:45,040 unfolds. Faye takes her research helicopter to monitor the 518 00:50:45,040 --> 00:50:46,800 situation upstream of the waterfall. 519 00:50:56,680 --> 00:51:01,376 Just ten miles upriver, the ice is starting to break. The 520 00:51:01,388 --> 00:51:06,340 locals are concerned because huge amounts of water can build 521 00:51:06,340 --> 00:51:09,520 up if these ice chunks dam the river and that can lead 522 00:51:09,532 --> 00:51:12,840 to devastating flooding in the town when the dams burst. 523 00:51:17,780 --> 00:51:20,599 Using cameras and sonar to assess the state of the river, 524 00:51:20,611 --> 00:51:23,540 Faye makes her best guess of when this breakup will hit the 525 00:51:23,540 --> 00:51:27,981 waterfall just above the town. So now guys, I think we have 526 00:51:27,993 --> 00:51:32,520 about 48 hours to go. Faye's prediction of the 24th of April 527 00:51:32,520 --> 00:51:34,900 is exciting news for the team. 528 00:51:37,760 --> 00:51:41,308 Upstream from here, it's already starting to melt and Faye 529 00:51:41,320 --> 00:51:44,940 thinks that we may only have another one or two days before 530 00:51:44,940 --> 00:51:49,320 this whole thing goes, which is almost impossible to imagine 531 00:51:49,332 --> 00:51:53,220 looking at it now, but that's what she says. With the 532 00:51:53,220 --> 00:51:56,840 breakup seemingly imminent, the team set up their cameras in anticipation. 533 00:52:00,240 --> 00:52:03,387 Over the next 48 hours, the weather warms to well above 534 00:52:03,399 --> 00:52:06,840 freezing, but there's no sign of the breakup. The team waits 535 00:52:06,840 --> 00:52:19,400 and waits and waits. Mark is 536 00:52:19,400 --> 00:52:22,690 concerned that the crew have to return home soon, so he 537 00:52:22,702 --> 00:52:26,240 heads into town to get the advice of long-term resident Red 538 00:52:26,240 --> 00:52:31,098 McBrien. We just have to live with it and take whatever base 539 00:52:31,110 --> 00:52:35,660 of action we can. Red has had 50 years of witnessing the 540 00:52:35,660 --> 00:52:39,284 power of the river. Well, we're hoping that she may break 541 00:52:39,296 --> 00:52:43,120 up in two or three days even. Oh, no, no, no, no. That's too 542 00:52:43,120 --> 00:52:47,544 soon. You think it'll be longer? Oh, no, no. Boys, you're 543 00:52:47,556 --> 00:52:51,840 looking at seven or eight days before she breaks of any 544 00:52:51,840 --> 00:52:57,980 significance. And if she breaks, she can jam and hold up. 545 00:53:00,780 --> 00:53:05,328 She'd be down here probably around the fifth or sixth of 546 00:53:05,340 --> 00:53:10,220 May. The townspeople are on tenterhooks, waiting for the big 547 00:53:10,220 --> 00:53:14,800 day, but another week goes by before anything starts to happen. 548 00:53:26,460 --> 00:53:30,628 Finally, it seems that things might be happening. We've just 549 00:53:30,640 --> 00:53:34,820 heard some cracks from upstream, so if we're lucky, we might 550 00:53:34,820 --> 00:53:37,957 get some action. Seven o'clock, which gives us two hours 551 00:53:37,969 --> 00:53:41,340 light. If it happens at night, we're going to miss the whole 552 00:53:41,340 --> 00:53:41,720 thing. 553 00:53:44,480 --> 00:53:48,537 Sure enough, the town is put on red alert that the river 554 00:53:48,549 --> 00:53:52,760 is about to break in the middle of the night. They've just 555 00:53:52,760 --> 00:53:55,531 called a full evacuation of the island where we're staying. 556 00:53:55,543 --> 00:53:58,280 If we don't move now, we're all going to be underwater and 557 00:53:58,280 --> 00:54:01,788 possibly get trapped here for a few days. The team have to 558 00:54:01,800 --> 00:54:05,440 move out and get up to the waterfall, hoping that it doesn't 559 00:54:05,440 --> 00:54:07,340 break before it's light enough to film. 560 00:54:13,060 --> 00:54:16,371 Luckily, the sun is up before the main event begins. 561 00:54:16,383 --> 00:54:20,020 That is a serious amount of ice coming around the corner. 562 00:54:31,820 --> 00:54:35,392 After weeks of waiting, sleeping giant of a river, we 563 00:54:35,404 --> 00:54:39,320 thought nothing was going to happen, and suddenly, look at 564 00:54:39,320 --> 00:54:45,979 this! This is what we're here for. Unbelievable! Absolutely 565 00:54:45,991 --> 00:54:52,440 unbelievable! Holy ****! How are you? The team is used to 566 00:54:52,440 --> 00:54:55,013 handling multiple cameras, but they don't usually have to 567 00:54:55,025 --> 00:54:57,520 dodge. They can even dodge 10-ton ice flows at the same 568 00:54:57,520 --> 00:55:02,839 time. You can see it racing over at an unbelievable speed. 569 00:55:02,851 --> 00:55:07,820 The power, if you are here to feel this, it's the deep 570 00:55:07,820 --> 00:55:10,816 rumbling sound of the river. I can feel it up to my feet. 571 00:55:10,828 --> 00:55:13,940 The power, I just can't imagine. It has to crush a house in 572 00:55:13,940 --> 00:55:17,760 no time. The team takes to the air to witness the 573 00:55:17,772 --> 00:55:22,140 destruction that's unleashed. Huge ice blocks are pushed 574 00:55:22,140 --> 00:55:25,620 downstream on the wave of water released by the breaking waterfall. 575 00:55:29,820 --> 00:55:32,140 This could devastate the town. 576 00:55:36,800 --> 00:55:42,200 But this year, the townspeople's luck is in. The town has escaped flooding. 577 00:55:47,060 --> 00:55:50,759 Crucially, the ice blocks did not dam the river. It's 578 00:55:50,771 --> 00:55:54,620 running free. And the date of the break-up? 6th of May. 579 00:55:55,300 --> 00:56:00,738 Red's got it right again. I don't use any of these gauges 580 00:56:00,750 --> 00:56:06,200 and mechanical assistance. I just go by what I see on the 581 00:56:06,200 --> 00:56:09,948 river as I walk it down. And I say, I walk it down, I back 582 00:56:09,960 --> 00:56:13,720 and forth every day on the river, to see what's happening, 583 00:56:14,300 --> 00:56:18,028 and from that I gauge when it's going to hit here, and what 584 00:56:18,040 --> 00:56:21,780 the situation's going to be like when it does get here. You 585 00:56:21,780 --> 00:56:24,602 know, when it went this morning, I said to my students, 586 00:56:24,614 --> 00:56:27,700 guess what the date is. Red told us it's the 6th of May. And 587 00:56:27,700 --> 00:56:30,484 I'm not surprised because we've been here a couple times 588 00:56:30,496 --> 00:56:33,440 and that's happened. Ten days, two weeks out, he just looks 589 00:56:33,440 --> 00:56:37,012 around and goes, 5th of May. How does he know that? It's 590 00:56:37,024 --> 00:56:40,860 incredible. It's because he just has lived on this river and 591 00:56:40,860 --> 00:56:45,043 lived this break-up for 50 years. I see scientists on 592 00:56:45,055 --> 00:56:49,560 improving the accuracy of their predictions all the time, 593 00:56:49,560 --> 00:56:53,002 but in the meantime, the people of Hay River have a 594 00:56:53,014 --> 00:56:56,800 remarkable guardian. Red, you were completely right this 595 00:56:56,800 --> 00:57:02,146 year. Are you right every year? No, I missed 596 00:57:02,158 --> 00:57:06,920 the odd one. Yes. In 1985, I missed it. 597 00:57:13,720 --> 00:57:15,120 Music 56203

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