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So here we are in Milan,
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the fashion and industrial powerhouse of Italy.
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I've only been to Milan a few times
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and always in passing.
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I've never stayed here long enough
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to really get a sense of it.
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The first thing that strikes you about Milan
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is its dynamism.
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No wonder espresso was invented here.
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I think I might need a few of these
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just to keep up with the rhythm of the city,
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but do the hard-working Milanese
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bring as much to the Italian table
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as they do to the country's economy?
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I'm Stanley Tucci. I'm Italian on both sides
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and I'm travelling across Italy to discover
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how the food in each of this country's 20 regions
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is as unique as the people and their past.
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That's delicious.
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Here in Milan, the menu is nothing like you expect.
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Up here in the north, forget about pasta and pizza.
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Oh my god, that's so beautiful. Perfecto .
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This is the land of rice and polenta.
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-Polenta in the ancient time, it was like the bread.
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-People from south of Italy call us 'Polentoni'.
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[TUCCI] There isn't even a tomato in sight...
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This is amazing.
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And olive oil plays second fiddle to butter.
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-Butter, a lot of butter. -Jesus.
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Woah, Jesus.
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Warning - irresponsible amounts of butter
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were used in the making of this program.
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OK. I hate to say it but...
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we need more butter.
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Milan is the second biggest city in Italy.
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It's the capital of Lombardy -
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a region in the north of the peninsula,
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the gateway to Northern Europe
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and all of the trade money that that brings.
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Sophisticated,
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elegant,
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and rich.
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Milan is the epicentre of design,
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fashion,
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and finance.
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The most iconic visual representation of Milan's power
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is its cathedral -
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the biggest church in the whole of Italy.
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This breath-taking architectural jewel
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with its forest of spires pointing upwards
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is the perfect metaphor for Milanese ambition.
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Where are you taking me Beppe?
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-It's a very-- -Up. Just up.
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-It's a good place. -Yeah?
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One of my favourite Italian writers
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has spent his whole life in Milan.
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Beppe Severgnini is a regular New York Times columnist.
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-Milan loves the future.
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-He is a master at explaining Italians
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to the rest of the world
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and I want him to tell me all I need to know about Milan.
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-Welcome to Milan's first ever skyscraper.
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-Even better,
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he has the keys to the most exclusive rooftop in the city.
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It's extraord-- It's like a city unto itself isn't it?
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In miniature. Wow.
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-It's amazing, it's like a sandcastle
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in the middle of a European city.
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And this was started in the late 14th Century
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and it's never finished. Never. -Never been finished.
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I've been told that Milan is always looking forward,
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more so than other Italian cities.
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-Absolutely, I love Milan because
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the success of Milan in my view
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is you walk around and you actually hear
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all these fantastic Italian accents
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from Sicily to Trentino Alto Adige near the Alps.
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-Yeah. -And all these young people
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coming from all over Europe and bringing new ideas.
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-What are the politics like here now?
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It's tricky. It's-- Milan is center-left,
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the rest of Lombardy is solidly on the right.
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Actually - the League, which many people think can...
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You know the League can be very unpleasant, the leaders,
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but the voters of the league are alright.
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But the good thing of Milan is that normally in Italy
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if you have a right-wing region and a left-wing town
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they'll spend their time annoying each other,
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boycotting each other.
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-And nobody wins. -And nobody wins.
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-In Milan they decided,
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look, Milan is more important and wealth is more important
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because Milan, like the Americans,
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oh they know about money
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and money is serious stuff here.
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Food is important, money is important.
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-What's the thing that separates the cuisine
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of Lombardy?
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-In Milan it's food for work -
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It's risotto, it's cotolette, it's meat
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it's like something that will keep you going
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and keep working in the cold.
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-It's more Swiss or Germanic almost in its...
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-Don't say this to an Italian. -[LAUGHS]
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No never, I would never do that. Never do that.
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Traditionally, food has never been a focus of this city -
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I think people are probably too busy making money
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to worry about what's for dinner.
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Despite this, Milan is a trailblazing city at heart,
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so in the past few years it's become a culinary Mecca.
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Cesare Battisti is one of the chefs responsible
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for the Milan food revolution.
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He's at the helm of the buzzy Ratana' s
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a restaurant that's been making waves
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on the gastronomic scene.
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Even though Cesare is renowned for being innovative,
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nobody knows how to make Milan's classic dishes like him.
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-Oh my god!
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That's when-- That was the record they found?
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And there you have it -
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proof that Milan led the way
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in the invention of the schnitzel.
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Any dissenting Austrian out there, please call me.
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Or call Cesare actually, don't call me.
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So this is clarified butter.
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-In this climate olive oil gives way to butter...
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Woah, Jesus!
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The king ingredient of Northern Italian cooking.
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Smell that.
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Dry sunny fields of olive trees
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are replaced by fertile pastures
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irrigated by rivers and lakes,
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perfect terrain for cattle.
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When I was young we used to have veal cutlets every week.
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Love veal. I know you're not supposed to but I love it.
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I love it. Of course the rearing practices are much better now.
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Like this for instance.
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In this wealthy city humble rice is flavoured
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with a spice worth more than gold.
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[TUCCI] So they used the saffron
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to color the stained glass windows in the Duomo.
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Those are very expensive windows. Yeah, yeah.
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[TUCCI] Oh my god that's so beautiful.
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[CESARE] For you.
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-Cheers. -Cheers.
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Proper.
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It's just that little bit thicker.
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Wiener schnitzel is so thin
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and it gets kind of dry.
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It's so perfectly moist.
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-So good! Grazie. -You're welcome.
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Cesare unlocked some of the gastronomic secrets
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of this metropolis for me.
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But I hear that to get to the heart of it
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I may need to go underground.
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People here are known for their unrivalled work ethic.
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They have always had to overcome inclement weather
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and build their livelihood on treacherous marshlands.
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The Milanese work hard but they also play hard.
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I've heard that within Italy,
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Milan is known as Milano da Bere -
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a city to drink.
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-It's very, very cool because it's raining
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it's cold but Italian people they always go to do aperitivo.
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-Aperitivo is a post-work drink meant to whet your appetite,
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or aprire l'appetitio as the Italians say.
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I'm here with Tess Masazza
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who is something of an expert on the subject.
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I was watching your stuff, so funny!
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-Thank you. -Oh my god, it's just brilliant
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and you started doing it like five years ago right?
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-I started five years ago, yes.
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-Tess Masazza is a Milan-based social media sensation
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who is known for her ironic take on modern living.
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Half French, half Italian,
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like so many other young people she now calls Milan her home.
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- Now we are going to a bar, a very special bar
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and they do amazing cocktails.
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Really?
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I don't know if you know, spritz.
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-Is this the joint? -Yes.
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-Oh Jesus. Oh my god we haven't even had a drink yet.
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Spritz has taken the world by storm...
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Carefully.
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...but it was originally the quintessential Milanese drink.
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[TESS] Hello. Buona sera. [TUCCI] Buona sera.
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Campari, it's main ingredient is made here in Milan.
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[TUCCI] Great, thank you. [TESS] Thank you so much.
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-Cheers. -Cheers. -Salute. -Salute.
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[TESS] Here, you have aperitivo with a drink and you can eat.
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-Yeah. -And you go back home and you don't have to cook.
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[TUCCI] That's fine. Oh thank you. Oh there's the food.
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[TESS] So you eat and you are more hungry so you eat again.
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-Every time you order a drink you get this?
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-It's fantastic, yes. -Yeah. No, it's amazing. It's amazing.
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A lot of Milanese take their work so seriously
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that they hardly stop for lunch.
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No wonder they need an aperitivo
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at the end of their day.
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Luckily this led to
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a revolutionary Milanese invention
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we're all grateful for -
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the Happy Hour.
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-Milan is very famous also for the secret bars
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-Yeah? -And...
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I love it because it's like in the movies
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because to enter you have to have a password.
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-Oh I love that idea.
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So it's like the old speakeasys.
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-Absolutely like old speakeasys.
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-But legal. -Yes. [LAUGHS]
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Maybe, I don't know. -Maybe? [LAUGHS]
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Tess has been given the password
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for a secret bar just behind the cathedral...
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[TESS] It's just here. This is it.
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[TUCCI] This is it?
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and the password is the name of the witch
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once believed to be the protector of this neighbourhood
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[TUCCI] Oh, I thought he was going to say no.
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-Arima.
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-Are you sure this is the right place?
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-I, I-- Yes it is. -Yeah? Yeah.
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-Oh hello. Buono sera. Thank you.
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This place is so hip
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it makes me want to be 20 again...
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[TESS] Wow. You like it. -Wow.
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[TUCCI] Yeah I love it.
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...or 40 or even 50. 50 would be fine.
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[TESS] Hi. -Hello. Stanley.
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Nice to meet you. You're welcome.
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Morris Maramaldi is one of Milan's
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most in-demand mixologists.
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Let's order a drink. What are you going to have?
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[TESS] I think, I'm gonna have the fresh mau.
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[TUCCI] I'm gonna have the martini black saffron.
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[MORRIS] Martini black saffron. -Yes please.
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He's known for creating incredible drinks with a twist.
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They are site-specific.
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-Oh wow. Oh I see it's black.
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Morris has invented a drink
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to honour the history of this building.
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That's beautiful.
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This was once the residence of coal workers.
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-Remarkably, despite being among Milan's poorest residents
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they all survived the catastrophic plague of 1630.
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-They thought it was her. They thought it was the witch
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but it was the coal? -To protect-- It was the coal.
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-So this is gonna keep me very healthy?
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That's the best martini I've had in a very long time. -Thank you.
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-Wow. And you came to Milan when?
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I'm sorry. -That's OK.
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[TUCCI] No don't let him in.
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I wouldn't let that guy in.
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It's really interesting, there's a forward-thinking aspect
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to this city - more than I've seen in other Italian cities.
256
00:15:40,133 --> 00:15:41,333
So many people.
257
00:15:41,400 --> 00:15:44,266
[TESS] They all come from everywhere, all over.
258
00:15:44,333 --> 00:15:46,366
-Yeah, because there's a lot of work.
259
00:16:02,633 --> 00:16:07,633
-You're fantastic, you're just fantastic.
260
00:16:20,233 --> 00:16:24,300
Milan is one of the fashion capitals of the world.
261
00:16:24,366 --> 00:16:26,366
The love affair between Milan and fashion
262
00:16:26,433 --> 00:16:27,766
goes back to the middle ages
263
00:16:28,033 --> 00:16:29,400
when the city was already known
264
00:16:29,466 --> 00:16:31,766
for the production of luxury garments.
265
00:16:32,033 --> 00:16:35,100
When Milan became the centre of the post-war economic boom,
266
00:16:35,166 --> 00:16:38,500
here was where ordinary Italians learned to dress.
267
00:16:38,566 --> 00:16:40,733
Milan spearheaded the revolution
268
00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:44,533
that was Pret-a-Porter, ready to wear.
269
00:16:46,433 --> 00:16:48,533
I love fashion, always have.
270
00:16:48,600 --> 00:16:53,333
Every movie I do, almost, I like to have people dressing.
271
00:16:53,400 --> 00:16:55,700
I think it's a really beautiful process.
272
00:17:00,133 --> 00:17:01,333
I feel very lucky
273
00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:03,066
because today I've been invited to meet
274
00:17:03,133 --> 00:17:06,266
one of the most successful fashion families in Italy.
275
00:17:07,466 --> 00:17:08,733
The Missonis are known
276
00:17:09,000 --> 00:17:12,066
for their instantly recognizable colorful knitwear.
277
00:17:12,133 --> 00:17:13,333
Their vibrant patterns
278
00:17:13,400 --> 00:17:16,433
have revolutionized the fashion world.
279
00:17:16,500 --> 00:17:19,566
This multi-generational dynasty built its success
280
00:17:19,633 --> 00:17:25,266
on the local textile manufacturing expertise.
281
00:17:25,333 --> 00:17:26,766
30 miles north-west of Milan
282
00:17:27,033 --> 00:17:29,433
next to their factory in Sumirago
283
00:17:29,500 --> 00:17:32,100
is their family home.
284
00:17:32,166 --> 00:17:34,033
Buongiorno. [ROSITA] Buongiorno!
285
00:17:34,100 --> 00:17:35,166
I was going out.
286
00:17:35,233 --> 00:17:36,433
[TUCCI] Let's go. [ROSITA] Follow me.
287
00:17:36,500 --> 00:17:38,733
[TUCCI] Of course, I'll follow you anywhere.
288
00:17:39,000 --> 00:17:41,100
I'm here for lunch... And that's for the mushrooms?
289
00:17:41,166 --> 00:17:44,633
... but it seems like I am going to have to work for it.
290
00:17:44,700 --> 00:17:48,700
88 year old Rosita Missoni, the matriarch of the empire,
291
00:17:48,766 --> 00:17:51,066
is taking me on a treasure hunt.
292
00:17:51,133 --> 00:17:56,100
[ROSITA] Careful, eh? Don't walk on my mushrooms.
293
00:17:56,166 --> 00:18:00,466
-Tell me about when you had your show in 1967. -Yes.
294
00:18:00,533 --> 00:18:07,000
They gave us 16 models and they didn't have the right underwear.
295
00:18:07,066 --> 00:18:10,266
So I said you have to take off your bra.
296
00:18:10,333 --> 00:18:14,200
I did it spontaneously because they had nice breasts
297
00:18:14,266 --> 00:18:17,533
so I didn't see a problem.
298
00:18:17,600 --> 00:18:24,200
So when the girls walked out on the runway with the light
299
00:18:24,266 --> 00:18:26,566
the clothes were transparent
300
00:18:26,633 --> 00:18:32,400
and they wrote - Missoni a Crazy Horse Collection
301
00:18:32,466 --> 00:18:34,633
on The Pitti Palace Runway.
302
00:18:34,700 --> 00:18:40,100
It was a coup d'etat! [LAUGHS].
303
00:18:40,166 --> 00:18:42,300
It was not calculated.
304
00:18:42,366 --> 00:18:44,533
-You mistakenly changed fashion.
305
00:18:44,600 --> 00:18:47,233
-Exactly. -That's fantastic.
306
00:18:48,633 --> 00:18:50,500
This is what my grandfather used to do.
307
00:18:50,566 --> 00:18:53,066
Rosita is a veteran forager.
308
00:18:53,133 --> 00:18:55,433
There are many varieties of edible mushrooms in Lombardy
309
00:18:55,500 --> 00:18:59,633
but for today's meal, she's only interested in porcini.
310
00:19:01,766 --> 00:19:05,066
[ROSITA] No. -What are those? -No.
311
00:19:07,500 --> 00:19:09,266
No. No.
312
00:19:09,333 --> 00:19:11,633
No. That's poisonous.
313
00:19:11,700 --> 00:19:14,566
[TUCCI] Is that one? -No.
314
00:19:14,633 --> 00:19:16,300
-No luck today.
315
00:19:16,366 --> 00:19:21,300
But you never know, that's the pleasure of finding mushrooms
316
00:19:21,366 --> 00:19:25,466
because it's the surprise, the emotion.
317
00:19:25,533 --> 00:19:28,233
-Luckily, we're not relying on our pickings.
318
00:19:28,300 --> 00:19:30,466
Who's cooking today? Is it your grandson?
319
00:19:30,533 --> 00:19:33,766
He said he's going to cook mushroom for us.
320
00:19:34,033 --> 00:19:36,433
-Oh nice. OK good.
321
00:19:36,500 --> 00:19:38,000
Rosita's grandson Francesco
322
00:19:38,066 --> 00:19:40,400
is so obsessed with his family's cooking
323
00:19:40,466 --> 00:19:43,066
that he's even written the Missoni cookbook.
324
00:19:49,000 --> 00:19:51,233
-His mother Angela now runs the company
325
00:19:51,300 --> 00:19:53,433
and she's just come over from the nearby factory
326
00:19:53,500 --> 00:19:55,700
to join us in the kitchen.
327
00:19:55,766 --> 00:19:57,600
[FRANCESCO] Hello. Mum, Angela. [TUCCI] Ciao. [ANGELA] Hi.
328
00:19:57,666 --> 00:19:59,600
[ANGELA] Ciao Stanley, welcome. [TUCCI] Hi, how are you?
329
00:19:59,666 --> 00:20:02,200
-We will leave her now because she's the master.
330
00:20:02,266 --> 00:20:03,533
[TUCCI] She'll kick you out anyway.
331
00:20:03,600 --> 00:20:04,666
[FRANCESCO] Yeah, yeah.
332
00:20:04,733 --> 00:20:07,166
[TUCCI] This was my job when I was a kid.
333
00:20:07,233 --> 00:20:08,600
My mother would give me the mushrooms
334
00:20:08,666 --> 00:20:12,000
and I would have to brush them off.
335
00:20:12,066 --> 00:20:14,133
Not ones we found, ones we bought
336
00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:16,700
but that was my job.
337
00:20:16,766 --> 00:20:18,766
What are you making? [ANGELA] Polenta.
338
00:20:19,033 --> 00:20:22,700
And what we do and this is the recipe of the house,
339
00:20:22,766 --> 00:20:24,533
I don't know where it comes from,
340
00:20:24,600 --> 00:20:27,266
we put in the water a piece of garlic.
341
00:20:27,333 --> 00:20:29,766
It will leave a flavour.
342
00:20:30,033 --> 00:20:32,166
-Yeah, yeah, that's nice, yeah.
343
00:20:32,233 --> 00:20:35,066
But you know a lot about the food of Lombardy, this area.
344
00:20:35,133 --> 00:20:37,600
-Polenta in the ancient times, it was like the bread.
345
00:20:37,666 --> 00:20:40,366
You eat it warm with meat if you're lucky
346
00:20:40,433 --> 00:20:42,166
or you would have eaten it with cheese,
347
00:20:42,233 --> 00:20:43,766
or you would eat it just with butter.
348
00:20:44,033 --> 00:20:47,333
Or my favourite dish as a child was polenta e latte,
349
00:20:47,400 --> 00:20:49,466
warm polenta and cold milk.
350
00:20:49,533 --> 00:20:51,533
-You know, people from south of Italy
351
00:20:51,600 --> 00:20:54,033
call us from north of Italy 'polentoni'
352
00:20:54,100 --> 00:20:56,266
because we eat polenta. -Oh is that true, really?
353
00:20:56,333 --> 00:20:58,266
[ANGELA] Usually you accompany it with juice
354
00:20:58,333 --> 00:21:02,166
and in this case we have e' un brasato.
355
00:21:02,233 --> 00:21:05,133
Braised with wine, onions, carrots, celery.
356
00:21:05,200 --> 00:21:08,133
-It's been cooked for hours and hours
357
00:21:08,200 --> 00:21:10,400
at a really low temperature.
358
00:21:10,466 --> 00:21:12,633
[TUCCI] My god, it just falls apart.
359
00:21:12,700 --> 00:21:15,166
[ANGELA] We are also having pheasant,
360
00:21:15,233 --> 00:21:17,433
which is a rural tradition.
361
00:21:17,500 --> 00:21:19,400
[TUCCI] Oh wow, this is beautiful, yeah.
362
00:21:19,466 --> 00:21:24,466
-I'm cooking now the mushroom, olive oil, a bit of garlic.
363
00:21:24,533 --> 00:21:27,566
[TUCCI] Well this is like a perfect autumn meal.
364
00:21:27,633 --> 00:21:29,766
Gorgeous.
365
00:21:30,033 --> 00:21:33,433
Lunch is nearly ready, but before we sit down to feast
366
00:21:33,500 --> 00:21:36,766
Angela's taking me for a peek around the house.
367
00:21:39,100 --> 00:21:40,366
Not too shabby.
368
00:21:40,433 --> 00:21:42,166
[ANGELA] [LAUGHS] You look at this room,
369
00:21:42,233 --> 00:21:44,466
it's not that everything is Missoni
370
00:21:44,533 --> 00:21:46,533
but it's like, if we look for things
371
00:21:46,600 --> 00:21:48,466
which are part of our world,
372
00:21:48,533 --> 00:21:51,233
you look at this painting and you can say,
373
00:21:51,300 --> 00:21:53,300
"Oh yes, this is part of the Missoni world."
374
00:21:53,366 --> 00:21:56,333
No, it's a Severini painting, right?
375
00:21:56,400 --> 00:21:58,133
Yeah, yeah. -It's extraordinary.
376
00:21:59,733 --> 00:22:01,633
And you grew up here? -Yeah. -Wow.
377
00:22:01,700 --> 00:22:03,133
-Nobody ever moved.
378
00:22:03,200 --> 00:22:05,000
And even the kids, the third generation,
379
00:22:05,066 --> 00:22:07,233
they left and then they all came back. Yeah.
380
00:22:07,300 --> 00:22:09,033
That's nice.
381
00:22:09,100 --> 00:22:10,133
[FRANCESCO] Welcome to the family.
382
00:22:10,200 --> 00:22:11,300
[TUCCI] Thank you so much, thank you.
383
00:22:11,366 --> 00:22:12,433
[FRANCESCO] Grandma's house is like a...
384
00:22:12,500 --> 00:22:15,200
[TUCCI] ...the hub of conviviality.
385
00:22:15,266 --> 00:22:17,366
One of the perks of living close by
386
00:22:17,433 --> 00:22:18,666
is that the whole family
387
00:22:18,733 --> 00:22:21,000
can drop in for lunch at grandma's.
388
00:22:21,066 --> 00:22:22,700
All three generations come together
389
00:22:22,766 --> 00:22:24,700
to share meals regularly.
390
00:22:24,766 --> 00:22:27,766
How many of you are involved in the business?
391
00:22:28,033 --> 00:22:32,733
-One, two, three, four-- So six.
392
00:22:33,000 --> 00:22:34,366
But enough shop talk.
393
00:22:34,433 --> 00:22:36,533
As if by magic we were all drawn
394
00:22:36,600 --> 00:22:39,466
to a beautifully laid out table.
395
00:22:43,066 --> 00:22:45,400
[TUCCI] So, polenta. Oh and you wrap it in this.
396
00:22:45,466 --> 00:22:46,733
Oh that's lovely.
397
00:22:47,000 --> 00:22:50,233
[ANGELA] I made a point of doing all the traditional dishes
398
00:22:50,300 --> 00:22:52,333
from the house, like brasato, fagiano...
399
00:22:52,400 --> 00:22:54,066
[FRANCESCO] At least once a year, we have this.
400
00:22:54,133 --> 00:22:56,000
[TUCCI] Yes, and lots of that beautiful sugo,
401
00:22:56,066 --> 00:22:58,500
oh my god, look at that. Oh my god.
402
00:22:58,566 --> 00:23:01,266
This is very exciting.
403
00:23:01,333 --> 00:23:02,500
The pheasant is incredible
404
00:23:02,566 --> 00:23:04,300
because so many times you eat pheasant
405
00:23:04,366 --> 00:23:05,733
it can be so dry.
406
00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:08,766
-With this sauce, it's really, really juicy and--
407
00:23:09,033 --> 00:23:12,400
-This is amazing. When you come home for lunch
408
00:23:12,466 --> 00:23:15,333
and you're working, what do you eat usually?
409
00:23:15,400 --> 00:23:20,433
-She had guests on Sunday, we might have that on Monday.
410
00:23:20,500 --> 00:23:23,466
-Might have the leftovers on a Monday? That's not so bad.
411
00:23:23,533 --> 00:23:26,033
[ROSITA] This is a typical Sunday lunch.
412
00:23:26,100 --> 00:23:28,533
-The brasato with the polenta and the mushrooms
413
00:23:28,600 --> 00:23:31,166
literally melted in my mouth.
414
00:23:33,566 --> 00:23:35,066
It's always a real privilege
415
00:23:35,133 --> 00:23:37,000
learning a family's home recipes
416
00:23:37,066 --> 00:23:39,100
and their kitchen secrets.
417
00:23:39,166 --> 00:23:41,500
-The sun is shining. -I know, I know,
418
00:23:41,566 --> 00:23:43,366
and I'm coming back for breakfast.
419
00:23:43,433 --> 00:23:46,000
This family clearly take their food traditions
420
00:23:46,066 --> 00:23:49,266
as seriously as their fashion creations.
421
00:23:49,333 --> 00:23:50,700
That's great. Mm.
422
00:24:00,200 --> 00:24:02,400
It's snowing.
423
00:24:04,433 --> 00:24:07,333
That's very exciting.
424
00:24:07,400 --> 00:24:12,133
The geographical diversity of Lombardy is astonishing.
425
00:24:12,200 --> 00:24:13,533
Within a few miles from Milan,
426
00:24:13,600 --> 00:24:16,600
the landscape changes dramatically.
427
00:24:16,666 --> 00:24:21,033
It could snow every day as far as I'm concerned.
428
00:24:21,100 --> 00:24:25,066
Here in the Orobic Alps, you're in a different world.
429
00:24:26,466 --> 00:24:28,433
Different culture,
430
00:24:28,500 --> 00:24:30,366
different values,
431
00:24:30,433 --> 00:24:32,300
different pace.
432
00:24:32,366 --> 00:24:33,566
No Milanese in a rush
433
00:24:33,633 --> 00:24:35,700
would have the patience to do what it takes
434
00:24:35,766 --> 00:24:39,200
to create the local culinary delicacy.
435
00:24:39,266 --> 00:24:40,700
In the village of Gerola Alta
436
00:24:40,766 --> 00:24:43,400
they are prepared to wait for more than a decade
437
00:24:43,466 --> 00:24:46,366
for their cheese to mature.
438
00:24:59,100 --> 00:25:03,066
Paolo Ciapparelli has devoted his whole life to Bitto,
439
00:25:03,133 --> 00:25:06,066
a 2,000-year-old type of cheese so expensive
440
00:25:06,133 --> 00:25:08,600
it was never eaten by those who made it.
441
00:25:08,666 --> 00:25:13,200
Wow. And it became the local currency.
442
00:25:13,266 --> 00:25:17,033
Each of these cheese wheels can cost up to $850,
443
00:25:17,100 --> 00:25:19,600
making it one of the most expensive cheeses
444
00:25:19,666 --> 00:25:20,633
in the world.
445
00:25:26,266 --> 00:25:27,500
-Wow.
446
00:25:27,566 --> 00:25:29,600
The secret to this extraordinary cheese
447
00:25:29,666 --> 00:25:32,133
is that it's made from the milk of cows
448
00:25:32,200 --> 00:25:34,466
that graze on alpine grass
449
00:25:34,533 --> 00:25:37,333
at different altitudes throughout the summer.
450
00:25:49,400 --> 00:25:52,233
-Can you tell by the smell?
451
00:26:03,466 --> 00:26:05,700
-Really? That's amazing.
452
00:26:05,766 --> 00:26:08,266
Paolo saved this cheese from extinction
453
00:26:08,333 --> 00:26:09,666
when European regulation
454
00:26:09,733 --> 00:26:12,233
led to cows being given industrial feed
455
00:26:12,300 --> 00:26:15,500
in addition to grass from the mountain pastures.
456
00:26:38,066 --> 00:26:40,166
-This is a cheese to meditate upon.
457
00:26:44,300 --> 00:26:45,366
Oh my god.
458
00:26:45,433 --> 00:26:47,466
It's quite beautiful.
459
00:26:54,066 --> 00:26:56,133
Oh my god. 12 years?
460
00:27:01,433 --> 00:27:03,500
He says it opens up his heart.
461
00:27:11,633 --> 00:27:13,700
Wow, wow.
462
00:27:14,766 --> 00:27:16,433
It's delicious.
463
00:27:18,333 --> 00:27:20,566
This incredible cheese would not exist
464
00:27:20,633 --> 00:27:23,666
were it not for the hard work of a near-extinct community
465
00:27:23,733 --> 00:27:28,033
of alpine herders. Cheers. Thank you.
466
00:27:28,100 --> 00:27:30,433
Paolo's determination to protect their tradition
467
00:27:30,500 --> 00:27:33,666
is inspiring and now I am inspired
468
00:27:33,733 --> 00:27:36,133
to cook with this cheese.
469
00:27:36,200 --> 00:27:38,500
Anyway, I think it's time to feed the film crew,
470
00:27:38,566 --> 00:27:40,500
who have been watching me eat all day.
471
00:27:40,566 --> 00:27:42,166
I don't know who these people are.
472
00:27:42,233 --> 00:27:45,133
Paparazzi in Italy, they follow you everywhere.
473
00:27:45,200 --> 00:27:47,166
I'm going to make them one of my favourites -
474
00:27:47,233 --> 00:27:52,266
pizzoccheri, a very special kind of noodle.
475
00:27:52,333 --> 00:27:53,533
I've never made it
476
00:27:53,600 --> 00:27:56,066
because there isn't a lot of wheat in this area,
477
00:27:56,133 --> 00:27:59,466
they use buckwheat which is indigenous.
478
00:27:59,533 --> 00:28:01,733
It's been one of Lombardy's top culinary delights
479
00:28:02,000 --> 00:28:05,500
for over 500 years and rightly so.
480
00:28:05,566 --> 00:28:07,333
I can't get enough of it.
481
00:28:08,366 --> 00:28:10,600
So now, savoy cabbage.
482
00:28:10,666 --> 00:28:15,000
Sort of cut almost like the pizzoccheri themselves.
483
00:28:15,066 --> 00:28:17,433
Then the potatoes.
484
00:28:19,533 --> 00:28:23,066
Like all northern dishes, it requires lots of butter.
485
00:28:23,133 --> 00:28:24,600
I love this.
486
00:28:24,666 --> 00:28:27,566
And now of course, Paolo's cheese.
487
00:28:29,666 --> 00:28:34,300
OK, I hate to say it but we need more butter.
488
00:28:36,033 --> 00:28:39,233
That's why nobody who eats pizzoccheri lives beyond
489
00:28:39,300 --> 00:28:40,733
the age of 35.
490
00:28:44,066 --> 00:28:47,100
See all that nice cheese melted in there.
491
00:28:53,000 --> 00:28:54,733
OK everybody just come and pick.
492
00:28:55,000 --> 00:28:58,466
That's enough pizzoccheri for like a thousand people.
493
00:28:58,533 --> 00:29:01,500
Jamie, Ja-- Jamie, give me the camera.
494
00:29:01,566 --> 00:29:03,366
You eat.
495
00:29:03,433 --> 00:29:05,000
Do you like it?
496
00:29:06,566 --> 00:29:08,533
[JAMIE] I like it. Thanks very much.
497
00:29:08,600 --> 00:29:10,633
[TUCCI] Oh, they're eating it.
498
00:29:10,700 --> 00:29:12,100
The crew is exhausted,
499
00:29:12,166 --> 00:29:13,566
they're ravenous and they're lapping it up
500
00:29:13,633 --> 00:29:17,466
but will my efforts stand the test of the locals?
501
00:29:23,066 --> 00:29:25,033
The family that owns the lodge we're staying in
502
00:29:25,100 --> 00:29:28,133
have offered to be my judges,
503
00:29:28,200 --> 00:29:31,633
including the octogenarian patriarch.
504
00:29:31,700 --> 00:29:33,466
-Very good.
505
00:29:33,533 --> 00:29:34,533
[LAUGHS] Buonissimo.
506
00:29:34,600 --> 00:29:37,400
-Don't say that because I'm famous.
507
00:29:41,766 --> 00:29:43,566
-Oh that's really good.
508
00:29:50,433 --> 00:29:53,466
-No, no, oh no. Now I'm very nervous.
509
00:29:57,500 --> 00:30:00,733
-It's a good sign if he's not saying anything.
510
00:30:08,600 --> 00:30:11,533
-That's the best compliment anybody could ever have.
511
00:30:11,600 --> 00:30:13,300
[LAUGHS]
512
00:30:13,366 --> 00:30:15,233
I'd like to think it's my culinary talent
513
00:30:15,300 --> 00:30:16,700
that made this dish so successful
514
00:30:16,766 --> 00:30:20,000
but my instinct is its Paolo's cheese.
515
00:30:21,033 --> 00:30:22,166
That's delicious.
516
00:30:22,233 --> 00:30:23,500
I'm so glad that Paolo
517
00:30:23,566 --> 00:30:25,233
saved this cheese from extinction.
518
00:30:25,300 --> 00:30:28,400
I defy anyone who tries pizzoccheri with Bitto
519
00:30:28,466 --> 00:30:31,300
not to become a cheese outlaw.
520
00:30:41,100 --> 00:30:43,666
Nice boat. -Yes. -It's nice and calm.
521
00:30:46,433 --> 00:30:49,066
This is the Lombardy I know -
522
00:30:49,133 --> 00:30:51,066
Lake Como.
523
00:30:51,133 --> 00:30:54,433
It's sheer beauty will never cease to amaze me.
524
00:30:54,500 --> 00:30:58,166
Merely 30 miles north of Milan, just below the Alps,
525
00:30:58,233 --> 00:31:01,733
this is Lombardy's most fabled destination.
526
00:31:03,000 --> 00:31:04,600
-Let's go fishing. [LAUGHS]
527
00:31:04,666 --> 00:31:06,466
-I am here with William Cavadini,
528
00:31:06,533 --> 00:31:10,600
a local textile manufacturer with a passion for fishing.
529
00:31:10,666 --> 00:31:15,100
-Como is a very important city for the textile business.
530
00:31:15,166 --> 00:31:16,733
-Yes I know, yeah. -For silk. -For silk, yeah.
531
00:31:17,033 --> 00:31:21,766
-Yes and my family is three generations of textile business.
532
00:31:22,033 --> 00:31:24,166
-Oh really? -Yes, yes. And for that job
533
00:31:24,233 --> 00:31:28,166
I travel around Europe, Middle East
534
00:31:28,233 --> 00:31:30,200
and after, I came back to Como
535
00:31:30,266 --> 00:31:34,066
and decided with a few friends to stay together
536
00:31:34,133 --> 00:31:36,300
to work to help the lake.
537
00:31:36,366 --> 00:31:41,033
-The few friends turned into an association of 600 fishermen.
538
00:31:41,100 --> 00:31:43,100
That's a nice one. -Yes that is a nice one.
539
00:31:43,166 --> 00:31:45,700
-They made it their job to help the local government
540
00:31:45,766 --> 00:31:49,500
enforce fishing limits across the lake.
541
00:31:49,566 --> 00:31:52,400
You can only keep fish that are more than 6 inches long
542
00:31:52,466 --> 00:31:54,633
and in limited quantities.
543
00:31:54,700 --> 00:31:57,100
Are people trying to stop fishing on the lake?
544
00:31:57,166 --> 00:31:58,333
Is that what people want to do?
545
00:31:58,400 --> 00:32:00,266
-What's going on is global warming.
546
00:32:00,333 --> 00:32:03,000
The lake's ecosystem has started to have trouble
547
00:32:03,066 --> 00:32:06,466
and we have to do something to change the system.
548
00:32:06,533 --> 00:32:08,266
-These fish that come from these lakes
549
00:32:08,333 --> 00:32:10,266
are really crucial to the diet here for centuries.
550
00:32:10,333 --> 00:32:13,766
-Exactly, you know our tradition is...
551
00:32:16,200 --> 00:32:17,266
...it's fantastic.
552
00:32:17,333 --> 00:32:19,133
-We're gonna fish right? I'm very excited.
553
00:32:19,200 --> 00:32:21,266
I love fishing. I never catch anything
554
00:32:21,333 --> 00:32:22,533
but I love fishing. -Today you will.
555
00:32:22,600 --> 00:32:25,033
-Today I will, I hope. -I hope.
556
00:32:28,233 --> 00:32:29,400
[WILLIAM] And down.
557
00:32:31,166 --> 00:32:33,366
-How do you know when you--
558
00:32:33,433 --> 00:32:35,200
Can you-- You can feel it? [WILLIAM] Yeah, you feel it.
559
00:32:35,266 --> 00:32:36,166
[TUCCI] You feel the nibble.
560
00:32:36,233 --> 00:32:38,066
-And when you feel--
561
00:32:40,133 --> 00:32:41,600
Ah, maybe you have.
562
00:32:41,666 --> 00:32:45,166
I think you have. Yes you have. This is a nice one. [LAUGHS]
563
00:32:45,233 --> 00:32:47,133
-I could feel it. -This is a nice one.
564
00:32:47,200 --> 00:32:48,433
[WILLIAM] [CHEERING] Three!
565
00:32:48,500 --> 00:32:50,400
[TUCCI] That's what I'm talking about.
566
00:32:50,466 --> 00:32:53,433
[WILLIAM] Who is the president?
567
00:32:53,500 --> 00:32:54,666
-Don't cut this sequence,
568
00:32:54,733 --> 00:32:57,000
make sure it's in one shot so they know.
569
00:33:00,700 --> 00:33:03,033
[WILLIAM] You are invited to my place.
570
00:33:03,100 --> 00:33:04,333
I'd like to teach you
571
00:33:04,400 --> 00:33:06,333
how to cook the riso con pesce persico.
572
00:33:06,400 --> 00:33:09,566
I'm very, very excited.
573
00:33:09,633 --> 00:33:12,133
I've heard that, like many people outside Milan,
574
00:33:12,200 --> 00:33:15,433
William supports the League,
575
00:33:15,500 --> 00:33:17,633
a political party born here in Lombardy
576
00:33:17,700 --> 00:33:21,633
demanding the independence of the north from the south.
577
00:33:23,166 --> 00:33:25,200
It's leader Matteo Salvini
578
00:33:25,266 --> 00:33:26,633
has polarized the country
579
00:33:26,700 --> 00:33:29,566
with his extreme anti-immigration views.
580
00:33:29,633 --> 00:33:33,333
[WILLIAM] This is the complicated moment to clean.
581
00:33:33,400 --> 00:33:35,266
[TUCCI] Just going up the spine.
582
00:33:35,333 --> 00:33:37,600
I'll have to find the right moment to broach the subject
583
00:33:37,666 --> 00:33:39,333
with William while we cook.
584
00:33:39,400 --> 00:33:41,333
[WILLIAM] Now you cut the head.
585
00:33:41,400 --> 00:33:43,666
[TUCCI] So you don't cook the whole fish?
586
00:33:43,733 --> 00:33:46,600
[WILLIAM] You can but we keep our tradition.
587
00:33:46,666 --> 00:33:50,300
In Como, you know, you move just 10 kilometers
588
00:33:50,366 --> 00:33:52,033
and everything changes.
589
00:33:52,100 --> 00:33:56,566
This is the nice and difficulty of Italy.
590
00:33:56,633 --> 00:34:00,066
I think it's something that is the Italian DNA.
591
00:34:00,133 --> 00:34:06,066
We say, it's not difficult to govern the Italians
592
00:34:07,200 --> 00:34:11,166
[LAUGHING] -You understand?
593
00:34:11,233 --> 00:34:16,166
[TUCCI] Now we're gonna cook it. [WILLIAM] We need butter.
594
00:34:16,233 --> 00:34:20,600
A lot of butter. -Woah Jesus yeah.
595
00:34:20,666 --> 00:34:24,366
[WILLIAM] Sage here, with the butter and with the garlic.
596
00:34:24,433 --> 00:34:28,633
-So tell me about the political climate
597
00:34:28,700 --> 00:34:30,466
in Italy now.
598
00:34:30,533 --> 00:34:33,300
-It's very difficult to make a good government
599
00:34:33,366 --> 00:34:35,266
for all the Italians...
600
00:34:35,333 --> 00:34:38,400
[WILLIAM] ...because something that is good in the south
601
00:34:38,466 --> 00:34:41,500
maybe is not good in the north.
602
00:34:41,566 --> 00:34:49,400
Mr. Salvini is one politician that is born from Lega Nord
603
00:34:49,466 --> 00:34:53,433
and step by step, he start to grow also in the south.
604
00:34:53,500 --> 00:34:55,366
-You worked all over the world
605
00:34:55,433 --> 00:34:57,533
what do you think about
606
00:34:57,600 --> 00:35:02,566
Salvini's attitude towards immigrants?
607
00:35:02,633 --> 00:35:06,600
-In Italy we don't have the system
608
00:35:06,666 --> 00:35:10,433
to bring these people and help these people.
609
00:35:10,500 --> 00:35:12,100
-But Salvini says,
610
00:35:12,166 --> 00:35:13,533
don't bring these people in at all,
611
00:35:13,600 --> 00:35:17,100
stop them completely no matter what, even if they drown,
612
00:35:17,166 --> 00:35:20,100
even if-- we're not even gonna let them off the boat.
613
00:35:20,166 --> 00:35:23,033
I can understand limitations on immigration
614
00:35:23,100 --> 00:35:26,233
but it's very hard to swallow the idea of saying
615
00:35:26,300 --> 00:35:29,166
there are children and women, maybe pregnant women,
616
00:35:29,233 --> 00:35:32,066
and we're not going to let them off the boat. -Yes Stanley,
617
00:35:32,133 --> 00:35:35,200
I agree with you.
618
00:35:35,266 --> 00:35:38,033
[WILLIAM] Why today I have to say no more people here
619
00:35:38,100 --> 00:35:39,733
because there is not enough space.
620
00:35:40,000 --> 00:35:41,733
We would like to have a good drink, good food,
621
00:35:42,000 --> 00:35:43,033
we don't like to fight.
622
00:35:43,100 --> 00:35:45,166
It is not in our DNA.
623
00:35:46,500 --> 00:35:47,533
[TUCCI] Beautiful.
624
00:35:49,600 --> 00:35:52,433
You speak about Salvini - you have to speak about rice.
625
00:35:52,500 --> 00:35:56,033
Come on, not some politician, you are Italian.
626
00:35:56,100 --> 00:35:58,433
If you don't agree, you don't have to go out from this house.
627
00:35:58,500 --> 00:36:00,000
-I wanted to talk to you about it
628
00:36:00,066 --> 00:36:01,633
because I agree that
629
00:36:01,700 --> 00:36:03,700
there do have to be rules in place
630
00:36:03,766 --> 00:36:06,766
however one of the reasons America is the way it is today
631
00:36:07,033 --> 00:36:11,100
is because it accepted millions of Italian immigrants.
632
00:36:11,166 --> 00:36:13,566
And that is what I think--
633
00:36:13,633 --> 00:36:15,333
That's the issue I have with Salvini
634
00:36:15,400 --> 00:36:18,266
because what we're doing is we're making an attempt
635
00:36:18,333 --> 00:36:23,100
to regulate the human instinct of saving people.
636
00:36:23,166 --> 00:36:26,000
-My-- What-- Why Salvini--
637
00:36:26,066 --> 00:36:29,266
Well, try because you know...
638
00:36:31,133 --> 00:36:34,066
-Oh, it's really good.
639
00:36:34,133 --> 00:36:35,700
Oh my god.
640
00:36:35,766 --> 00:36:40,033
-Next time we'll invite Salvini, I know him. -You do? -Yeah.
641
00:36:42,733 --> 00:36:45,033
-Is he a nice guy? -Yes, like me.
642
00:36:48,566 --> 00:36:50,366
-Hmm, I'm not so sure I would like
643
00:36:50,433 --> 00:36:52,266
to come back and meet Salvini
644
00:36:52,333 --> 00:36:56,466
but I'd be very happy to come back and see William again.
645
00:36:56,533 --> 00:36:58,366
I was surprised William suggested that
646
00:36:58,433 --> 00:37:01,733
as an Italian I should care more about food than politics
647
00:37:02,000 --> 00:37:04,300
because I believe the two things are connected,
648
00:37:04,366 --> 00:37:08,700
hospitality can also be a political choice.
649
00:37:16,733 --> 00:37:18,266
[TUCCI] Are you happy to be back in lake Como?
650
00:37:18,333 --> 00:37:20,100
[FELICITY] Of course I am, it's amazing.
651
00:37:20,166 --> 00:37:23,233
[TUCCI] This is where we met. -Have you got some poetry?
652
00:37:23,300 --> 00:37:24,633
-Not on me.
653
00:37:24,700 --> 00:37:27,633
I tried to come to lake Como without my wife Felicity
654
00:37:27,700 --> 00:37:29,433
but she followed me.
655
00:37:29,500 --> 00:37:31,266
It's one of the most beautiful places-- -I know you have the--
656
00:37:31,333 --> 00:37:33,300
-It sounds silly to say it is. -I love that you have,
657
00:37:33,366 --> 00:37:34,733
you've got this, the sun, the lake
658
00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:36,400
and then also just the snow peaks.
659
00:37:36,466 --> 00:37:39,533
-Yeah. -What is that mountain range over there?
660
00:37:39,600 --> 00:37:43,166
-That's the beginning of the Alps.
661
00:37:43,233 --> 00:37:46,400
As much as Felicity and I love spending time here by the lake,
662
00:37:46,466 --> 00:37:49,266
there is a place in Milan I want to show her
663
00:37:49,333 --> 00:37:51,533
that's doing something extraordinary.
664
00:37:55,533 --> 00:37:57,000
A restaurant in the centre
665
00:37:57,066 --> 00:37:59,466
embodies the spirit and history of Milan
666
00:37:59,533 --> 00:38:02,066
like almost nowhere else.
667
00:38:20,500 --> 00:38:22,133
-Angelo Bissolotti
668
00:38:22,200 --> 00:38:25,533
is the mastermind behind Osteria del Treno,
669
00:38:25,600 --> 00:38:28,366
a haven for the hard-working Milanese
670
00:38:28,433 --> 00:38:29,566
in an historical venue.
671
00:38:29,633 --> 00:38:31,033
[FELICITY] Felicity,
672
00:38:31,100 --> 00:38:32,266
[FELICITY] Nice to meet you.
673
00:38:35,166 --> 00:38:37,400
-When Angelo acquired this place 30 years ago
674
00:38:37,466 --> 00:38:41,000
his mission was to create an authentic osteria,
675
00:38:41,066 --> 00:38:42,766
accessible to everyone.
676
00:38:43,033 --> 00:38:46,600
You can have lunch here every day for less than $11,
677
00:38:46,666 --> 00:38:50,400
hang out in the afternoon, but in the evening
678
00:38:50,466 --> 00:38:52,200
this becomes a hotspot,
679
00:38:52,266 --> 00:38:56,633
celebrating the region's finest foods and entertainment.
680
00:39:00,533 --> 00:39:04,066
-Oh my god, that looks delicious.
681
00:39:04,133 --> 00:39:06,366
We were joined by Angelo's nephew, Francesco...
682
00:39:06,433 --> 00:39:08,166
-This is nice. -Yeah.
683
00:39:08,233 --> 00:39:10,666
...and our mutual friend, the actress Lella Costa.
684
00:39:10,733 --> 00:39:13,100
- Oh god it looks amazing.
685
00:39:16,433 --> 00:39:17,733
[FELICITY] My god.
686
00:39:21,700 --> 00:39:24,566
[TUCCI] Oh beautiful. [ANGELO] See? -Yeah.
687
00:39:29,700 --> 00:39:32,033
[LELLA] For a long time it's been the only place
688
00:39:32,100 --> 00:39:34,700
where people could afford to go and eat out.
689
00:39:34,766 --> 00:39:36,666
It wasn't expensive. -Right.
690
00:40:05,233 --> 00:40:06,500
-Angelo couldn't have picked
691
00:40:06,566 --> 00:40:08,500
a better location for his osteria
692
00:40:08,566 --> 00:40:13,100
as this place was created by the workers, for the workers.
693
00:40:18,200 --> 00:40:20,766
-In Italy, the first rail workers' strike
694
00:40:21,033 --> 00:40:23,533
was claimed here in this place.
695
00:40:43,700 --> 00:40:47,233
-A bit of their salary, they use it to help each other
696
00:40:47,300 --> 00:40:52,200
they use it for a meeting hall, a place to have dances,
697
00:40:52,266 --> 00:40:55,700
to listen to music, to build this place.
698
00:40:55,766 --> 00:40:58,366
And in essence, they create a union.
699
00:40:58,433 --> 00:41:00,366
[LELLA] Yeah. [FRANCESCO] Yeah.
700
00:41:03,233 --> 00:41:04,700
[FRANCESCO] ...with mashed potatoes.
701
00:41:04,766 --> 00:41:07,300
This is something for the workers.
702
00:41:07,366 --> 00:41:09,433
[TUCCI] Delicious, that's delicious.
703
00:41:09,500 --> 00:41:11,566
-Angelo has brilliantly recreated
704
00:41:11,633 --> 00:41:14,266
the spirit of traditional Osterias.
705
00:41:14,333 --> 00:41:16,666
[SINGING]
706
00:41:23,466 --> 00:41:25,066
Before I started this trip
707
00:41:25,133 --> 00:41:27,133
I never would have imagined such a place
708
00:41:27,200 --> 00:41:32,366
could exist in fashionable, money-driven Milan.
709
00:41:32,433 --> 00:41:34,366
This seems like a million miles away
710
00:41:34,433 --> 00:41:36,433
from the nearby stock exchange...
711
00:41:40,233 --> 00:41:43,600
...the trendy bars and the luxury brand stores.
712
00:41:45,766 --> 00:41:47,733
Here, in this Milan,
713
00:41:48,000 --> 00:41:50,233
I recognise the power of the pioneers
714
00:41:50,300 --> 00:41:55,000
that changed the face of Italy through sheer hard work.
715
00:42:00,033 --> 00:42:02,333
This place, for me, is living proof
716
00:42:02,400 --> 00:42:06,600
that conviviality can be a vehicle for social change
717
00:42:06,666 --> 00:42:11,300
after all, most revolutions begin around a table.
52241
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