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India is the largest democracy
in the world.
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00:00:07,280 --> 00:00:11,880
The head of state is a Muslim,
the head of government is a Sikh
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00:00:11,880 --> 00:00:16,840
and the head of the ruling
political party is an
Italian Catholic immigrant.
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00:00:19,800 --> 00:00:24,720
Such cultural and religious
diversity is unparalleled
in the developing world.
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00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:33,840
400 years ago Bombay was gifted
by the Portuguese to the British
as a dowry -
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00:00:33,840 --> 00:00:36,240
a wedding gift.
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00:00:36,240 --> 00:00:38,360
THEY SING: "Jingle Bells".
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00:00:40,640 --> 00:00:45,920
When the British left,
they bequeathed the foundations
of a secular society,
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of democracy, the law,
the Anglican church and the greatest
railway system in all Asia.
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00:00:58,360 --> 00:01:04,920
India is undergoing
unprecedented growth and Bombay
is its financial powerhouse.
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00:01:06,480 --> 00:01:09,360
The city promotes a positive
vision of the future,
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00:01:09,360 --> 00:01:12,440
a place where dreams can come true.
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00:01:12,440 --> 00:01:16,520
And for many the railway is
their lifeline to that dream.
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00:01:16,520 --> 00:01:17,800
Happy Christmas!
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00:01:23,080 --> 00:01:26,520
This is the story
of the Bombay Railway.
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00:01:47,080 --> 00:01:51,320
Within 30 years India's economy
could rival America's
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00:01:51,320 --> 00:01:54,520
and its population
could outstrip China.
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00:01:58,880 --> 00:02:02,840
Agriculture still provides work for
more than half of the population,
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00:02:02,840 --> 00:02:07,560
but as everywhere,
they are migrating to the cities
in their millions.
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00:02:09,640 --> 00:02:13,640
The draw of the city,
the promise of a better life,
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00:02:13,640 --> 00:02:16,000
is a universal dream.
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00:02:18,800 --> 00:02:21,560
At its heart is Bombay -
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00:02:21,560 --> 00:02:23,280
the city of dreams.
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00:02:37,440 --> 00:02:44,240
Last year 13,000 Indians
became millionaires,
and the majority were from Bombay.
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00:02:44,240 --> 00:02:49,200
A city of success, celebrity and
wealth where, if you don't become
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00:02:49,200 --> 00:02:53,440
a Bollywood star or a millionaire,
you can at least make a living.
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00:02:53,440 --> 00:02:57,880
What made it all possible in India,
was the coming of the railway.
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The British laid the first railway
line in Bombay 150 years ago,
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since when Indian Railways have
been adding to their system.
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Now it's the biggest
railway system in Asia.
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Every year, they celebrate that
first run, with a little bit of
nostalgia and a lot of steam.
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00:03:33,000 --> 00:03:34,960
The first railway train
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which ran in India was way back
in 1853, 16th April.
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It was decided that 16th of
April of every year will be
declared as the Railway Week.
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00:03:48,960 --> 00:03:56,800
This steam locomotive is a WP
class of locomotive manufactured
by Baldwin company of USA.
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00:04:00,880 --> 00:04:06,680
It's a beautiful sight
to see a steam locomotive
fully steamed up, ready to go.
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00:04:29,000 --> 00:04:35,960
But today we are handling about
60-65,000 passengers per hour.
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00:04:38,160 --> 00:04:41,520
On both systems of Central
Railway and Western Railway
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we carry more than six million
passengers a day - a day!
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00:04:59,480 --> 00:05:03,120
There are more than 2,000 trains
a day on the suburban network
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and hundreds more on
long distance routes.
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00:05:06,640 --> 00:05:10,240
The suburban railway alone
moves the equivalent of
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the entire population of
a small country in and out
of the city every day.
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00:05:22,560 --> 00:05:26,480
The railway is reliable.
It's cheap, and very, very crowded.
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00:05:29,000 --> 00:05:33,560
They may have changed Bombay
to Mumbai, but in an
ever-changing city,
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the railway has remained the only
constant in most peoples' lives.
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00:05:46,160 --> 00:05:48,880
BIRDS CAW
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Mumbai rises early.
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00:05:57,920 --> 00:06:00,760
The first ritual of the day
is to bathe.
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00:06:00,760 --> 00:06:02,440
WATER GUSHES
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00:06:04,960 --> 00:06:10,080
Whether Hindu or Muslim,
Christian, Parsi or Sikh,
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life revolves around hard work,
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00:06:13,360 --> 00:06:17,720
duty to the family
and devotion to your god.
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00:06:19,640 --> 00:06:21,680
And the railway is a family.
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From father to son, generation to
generation, the railway in India
is so much more than a train ride.
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00:06:28,560 --> 00:06:30,320
It's a way of life.
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00:06:50,320 --> 00:06:54,280
Hans Dev Sharma
is a senior operations clerk.
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00:06:54,280 --> 00:06:58,960
He works in the timetabling
department which schedules
thousands of trains a day.
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00:06:58,960 --> 00:07:06,120
So Hans is an optimist and one of
the railway's happiest employees.
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00:07:06,120 --> 00:07:07,320
Morning, sir.
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00:07:25,720 --> 00:07:29,320
It was a craze to get a government
job and it was also saying that
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00:07:29,320 --> 00:07:32,840
a government job was very relaxing
job, nothing to do over there.
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00:07:42,120 --> 00:07:45,440
Before the railways, Hans
started life as an actor,
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specialising in character roles,
and comedy is his thing.
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00:07:53,680 --> 00:07:59,920
When it's crowded, the faces of
these handles becomes like this.
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00:08:04,400 --> 00:08:07,800
And when it's empty the faces
they becomes like, very happy.
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00:08:24,120 --> 00:08:28,200
Hans works at Churchgate,
Mumbai's busiest railway station.
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00:08:28,200 --> 00:08:31,120
He comes from a railway family.
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00:08:31,120 --> 00:08:36,440
His father was in the signals
department and Hans followed in his
footsteps at the tender age of 21.
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00:08:44,320 --> 00:08:47,680
She looks after me.
I look after her work.
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That's it.
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She's Pradnia, colleague of mine.
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00:08:52,120 --> 00:08:54,760
He's CITT.
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00:08:54,760 --> 00:08:59,320
Hans is just one of a million
and a half employees of the
Indian Railways -
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00:08:59,320 --> 00:09:02,800
now the biggest civil
employer in the world.
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00:09:02,800 --> 00:09:08,680
It's an administrative hothouse
invented by the British
and expanded upon by the Indians.
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00:09:08,680 --> 00:09:11,280
It generates a mountain
of paperwork,
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00:09:11,280 --> 00:09:14,440
but even with the introduction
of computers,
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00:09:14,440 --> 00:09:17,160
Hans' office isn't quite paper-free.
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00:09:17,160 --> 00:09:20,560
Computers have helped him
in working out the timetable.
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00:09:20,560 --> 00:09:22,280
Now it only takes half the time.
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00:09:24,280 --> 00:09:27,240
So when the timetable's done,
there's plenty of administration
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00:09:27,240 --> 00:09:30,720
to deal with, some of which
requires that personal touch.
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00:09:48,480 --> 00:09:53,840
Because the railways is state-owned,
it's governed by the principals
of the constitution.
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00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:57,880
And to ensure that the organisation
reflects the society it serves,
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00:09:57,880 --> 00:10:01,000
it has employment quotas.
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00:10:02,760 --> 00:10:04,280
It has a sports quota,
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00:10:04,280 --> 00:10:08,440
a scheduled caste quota,
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00:10:08,440 --> 00:10:10,960
a disabled quota
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00:10:10,960 --> 00:10:13,400
and a cultural quota.
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00:10:13,400 --> 00:10:18,280
Hans Dev Sharma was
talent-spotted by the railways
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00:10:18,280 --> 00:10:20,240
as an exceptional actor and dancer.
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00:10:22,840 --> 00:10:26,040
He was auditioned and examined
and subsequently offered a job.
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00:10:28,760 --> 00:10:31,960
I had seen Bollywood and
I had reached to the mark,
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00:10:31,960 --> 00:10:37,680
if I give more time to Bollywood
I can be a good character artist,
a renowned one.
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00:10:37,680 --> 00:10:41,160
But I am not giving as well as I am
giving preference to Railways first
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00:10:41,160 --> 00:10:43,480
because that is my say,
bread and butter.
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00:10:47,960 --> 00:10:51,440
For the sake of his family,
Hans the actor and comedian
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00:10:51,440 --> 00:10:54,040
accepted a secure job
with the railway,
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00:10:54,040 --> 00:10:56,720
rather than pursue
a career in Bollywood.
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00:10:58,720 --> 00:11:02,360
In his time he's appeared in a
few TV soaps, a couple of small
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00:11:02,360 --> 00:11:07,880
budget films, and his son Arun
also wants a career on the stage.
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00:11:10,920 --> 00:11:14,080
MUSIC AND EXCITED CHATTER
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The mission of the cultural group
is to entertain and enhance
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00:11:19,480 --> 00:11:22,920
the cultural wellbeing
of the railway workforce.
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00:11:22,920 --> 00:11:29,040
Tonight's play is based upon a story
from the Mahabharata, and Hans is
playing Krishna, the lead role.
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00:11:31,240 --> 00:11:36,560
I'm portraying a character
whom everybody knows in India
especially and abroad also.
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00:11:36,560 --> 00:11:39,440
Everybody is being known
by Krishna, who is Krishna.
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00:11:42,840 --> 00:11:48,480
For that purpose I have to play a
cunning smile and an angry role.
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00:11:48,480 --> 00:11:49,880
Tricky.
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00:11:54,160 --> 00:11:57,040
EERIE MUSIC PLAYS
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00:12:28,720 --> 00:12:31,240
The railway audience
may not be huge,
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00:12:31,240 --> 00:12:35,880
but acting is a vocation for Hans,
so he has satisfaction in the art.
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00:13:01,160 --> 00:13:03,840
TRAFFIC NOISE
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In a country where aspirations are
rising, Mumbai is the epicentre
of the modern Indian world.
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00:13:16,160 --> 00:13:19,120
Its population growth is staggering.
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00:13:19,120 --> 00:13:25,160
And it remains India's most
successful city. And it's Bollywood.
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00:13:28,640 --> 00:13:33,160
More Indian films were
released in Britain last year
than British films.
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00:13:33,160 --> 00:13:38,960
Stars are paid in millions
and millions can even be won
on TV game shows.
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00:13:38,960 --> 00:13:43,880
And each week Indians buy a
million new mobile phones.
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00:13:50,160 --> 00:13:54,640
Jagdish Paul is part of the
new generation of Mumbaikers.
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00:13:54,640 --> 00:13:59,880
Confident, educated, ambitious
for the good things in life.
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00:14:02,200 --> 00:14:08,120
The son of a Railway Catering
Officer, Jagdish, like his father,
always had an interest in food,
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00:14:08,120 --> 00:14:12,960
but unlike his father
he had no interest in the railway.
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00:14:33,840 --> 00:14:40,960
Jagdish graduated in politics and
economics, did a law degree and
then became a fully qualified chef.
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00:14:40,960 --> 00:14:43,400
But the railways
were calling him back.
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00:14:52,280 --> 00:14:59,000
You can travel anywhere on
the subcontinent by long distance
train from here.
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00:14:59,000 --> 00:15:04,040
With journeys sometimes
lasting days, passengers
need just two things.
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00:15:04,040 --> 00:15:06,320
A reservation, and something to eat.
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00:15:08,120 --> 00:15:14,560
Catering on long distance trains
has for some time been tendered out
to private companies.
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00:15:14,560 --> 00:15:19,560
In a sealed bid, Jagdish won the
contract for one of the railway's
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00:15:19,560 --> 00:15:24,760
most popular long-distance routes
from Mumbai to Goa and the South.
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00:16:49,640 --> 00:16:56,840
Mumbai is a city of dreams
where, they say, the streets
are paved with gold.
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00:16:59,240 --> 00:17:04,000
They also say that
the city never sleeps -
and neither does the railway.
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00:17:06,200 --> 00:17:10,040
In a city driven by profit,
the suburban railway system runs
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00:17:10,040 --> 00:17:14,760
at a loss, and it operates
almost 24 hours of the day.
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00:17:16,560 --> 00:17:22,520
The railway is a lifeline for
the population and an essential
service for the city it serves.
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00:17:25,120 --> 00:17:29,560
All the growth that's taking
place in this country, a lot
of it can be attributed to the
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00:17:29,560 --> 00:17:32,360
robust working of this organisation.
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00:17:36,080 --> 00:17:39,680
You have areas where
you can't make profits.
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00:17:39,680 --> 00:17:43,040
But you can't abandon
your people there.
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00:17:43,040 --> 00:17:46,000
You have areas where you have
only two trains going in a system.
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00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:49,720
If you take them away,
because they are not making profit,
then the people
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00:17:49,720 --> 00:17:55,360
will have nothing to fall back upon
and probably it will in the long run
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00:17:55,360 --> 00:17:59,080
work as an impediment to the
economic progress of that area.
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00:17:59,080 --> 00:18:02,040
CLICK
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00:18:04,440 --> 00:18:06,280
BELL CHIMES TWICE
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00:18:06,280 --> 00:18:08,360
TRAIN HORN BLOWS
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00:18:22,160 --> 00:18:27,080
The first commuter train sets off
from the outskirts of the city
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00:18:27,080 --> 00:18:28,880
at 3.40 in the morning,
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00:18:28,880 --> 00:18:34,240
and the first commuters
are village people bringing
their produce to market.
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00:18:48,160 --> 00:18:54,120
Without the railway, millions
of people and the families they
support just could not survive.
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00:19:38,200 --> 00:19:41,520
While we like to keep our head
above water, yet we have
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00:19:41,520 --> 00:19:44,800
been discharging our duties
for the society everywhere
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00:19:44,800 --> 00:19:47,240
and the Mumbai Suburban
system is one of that.
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00:19:59,840 --> 00:20:06,960
Mumtaz Khazi is the daughter of a
railwayman and she drives commuter
trains on the suburban network.
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00:20:15,800 --> 00:20:18,960
Mumtaz was brought up in a
traditional Muslim family -
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00:20:18,960 --> 00:20:22,040
a railway family.
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00:20:22,040 --> 00:20:28,720
And like most railway families,
their house was literally
right by the side of the tracks.
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00:21:34,800 --> 00:21:40,200
Mumtaz Khazi was
studying at university,
when she saw an ad in the newspaper.
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00:22:26,320 --> 00:22:33,560
Mumtaz became Asia's first woman
loco diesel driver and has
driven trains all over India.
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00:22:35,440 --> 00:22:40,560
But now she has a family of her own,
and she's settled into the railway
life in Mumbai,
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driving trains
on the suburban network.
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00:22:46,560 --> 00:22:51,800
She lives at Sion colony, just a
few stations from where she grew up.
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00:22:51,800 --> 00:22:55,120
All her immediate family
emigrated to Canada.
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00:22:55,120 --> 00:23:02,440
And now her father's retired
there too, so Mumtaz is the
only member left in Mumbai.
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00:23:02,440 --> 00:23:06,880
And in a few days, her brother
is coming from Toronto
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00:23:06,880 --> 00:23:12,000
and she's been asked to
find him a suitable wife
and arrange his marriage.
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00:23:26,760 --> 00:23:29,640
Mumtaz has to find a wife
for her brother,
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00:23:29,640 --> 00:23:31,640
to get him married in Mumbai,
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00:23:31,640 --> 00:23:34,640
and then back to Canada
in just eight weeks.
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00:23:48,600 --> 00:23:53,320
After independence, the
constitution of India proclaimed it
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00:23:53,320 --> 00:23:57,520
"a sovereign, socialist,
secular democratic republic."
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00:23:57,520 --> 00:24:05,240
With 395 articles,
it is perhaps the longest and most
detailed constitution in the world.
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00:24:05,240 --> 00:24:06,640
COMMANDS ARE SHOUTED
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00:24:09,080 --> 00:24:10,720
CYMBALS CRASH
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00:24:10,720 --> 00:24:12,520
TRUMPET PLAYS
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00:24:12,520 --> 00:24:16,160
The railways were nationalised
after independence and remains
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00:24:16,160 --> 00:24:21,920
a state-funded organisation
with a huge budget, second only
to the Ministry of Defence.
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00:24:25,520 --> 00:24:30,920
So, the railways celebrate Republic
Day with all the pageantry befitting
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00:24:30,920 --> 00:24:34,120
one of the country's most
important national assets.
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00:24:36,320 --> 00:24:40,520
But beneath the ceremony and ritual,
the railway still remains
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00:24:40,520 --> 00:24:44,720
quietly committed to all the
principles of that constitution.
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00:24:47,640 --> 00:24:53,000
So, when Mumbai's population
is swelled by a couple
of million pilgrims,
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00:24:53,000 --> 00:24:56,000
the railway simply
takes it in its stride.
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00:25:04,360 --> 00:25:07,400
Each year the city fathers and
Indian Railways play host to
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00:25:07,400 --> 00:25:13,560
an extra two million rural peoples
who invade their city for four days.
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00:25:13,560 --> 00:25:15,920
They are know as the Dalit -
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00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:19,480
the untouchable caste.
SHOUTING
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00:25:19,480 --> 00:25:24,080
They're all devotees
of Dr Bhimrao Ambedkar -
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00:25:24,080 --> 00:25:30,280
one of the architects of the
Indian constitution and champion
of the downtrodden poor of India.
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00:25:30,280 --> 00:25:33,280
PEOPLE SING
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00:25:34,480 --> 00:25:38,880
Before Ambedkar's intervention,
the Dalit were virtual slaves.
194
00:25:43,280 --> 00:25:47,000
Ambedkar opened up opportunities
in education for them,
195
00:25:47,000 --> 00:25:50,120
made quotas for government
jobs like the railways,
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00:25:50,120 --> 00:25:52,680
and he secured their right to vote.
197
00:25:52,680 --> 00:25:57,160
SHOUTING AND CHEERING
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00:25:57,160 --> 00:26:01,000
The railway provides these pilgrims
with special free travel
199
00:26:01,000 --> 00:26:05,000
and the city gives them
a free place to stay.
200
00:26:05,000 --> 00:26:08,320
Ambedkar gave them their freedom.
201
00:26:10,200 --> 00:26:13,840
For four days and nights they show
their respect to the man who himself
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00:26:13,840 --> 00:26:17,920
was born a Dalit,
but who died a saint.
203
00:26:38,280 --> 00:26:43,880
At Mumbai's international airport,
Mumtaz and her family
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00:26:43,880 --> 00:26:48,760
are meeting her brother Feroz,
who's just arrived from Canada.
205
00:26:48,760 --> 00:26:50,800
He's come in search of a wife.
206
00:26:50,800 --> 00:26:56,720
Mumtaz has the responsibility of
finding a suitor and marrying him
off in the next two months.
207
00:26:59,400 --> 00:27:00,640
In Toronto?
208
00:27:06,080 --> 00:27:10,640
Arranged marriages in India, whether
Hindu, Muslim or even Christian,
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00:27:10,640 --> 00:27:13,000
are what most people prefer.
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00:27:13,000 --> 00:27:17,840
Mumtaz and Feroz come from a
traditional Muslim background
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00:27:17,840 --> 00:27:23,520
and although he may now live in
Canada, the family believe his
suitor is best found in Mumbai.
212
00:27:28,080 --> 00:27:33,160
Today, 90% of all marriages
in India are arranged.
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00:27:33,160 --> 00:27:36,640
Yet less than 2% ever get divorced.
214
00:27:40,280 --> 00:27:44,040
An arranged marriage
is a family affair -
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00:27:44,040 --> 00:27:49,680
not just the joining of husband
and wife, but the joining of
two extended Indian families.
216
00:28:36,040 --> 00:28:39,280
He's sure he didn't put it
in the bag that is lost.
217
00:28:39,280 --> 00:28:41,800
Feroz is a product engineer,
218
00:28:41,800 --> 00:28:45,960
searching for a bride in Mumbai
to take back to Canada.
219
00:28:45,960 --> 00:28:52,400
Finding a wife with a good
education and a degree is must for
this middle class Indian boy.
220
00:28:52,400 --> 00:28:54,640
No degree, no marriage.
221
00:28:57,640 --> 00:29:01,000
CAR HORNS HOOT
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00:29:03,600 --> 00:29:05,520
HE SHOUTS AND THEY CHEER
223
00:29:05,520 --> 00:29:10,840
In a fast changing India,
education is seen as the only route
224
00:29:10,840 --> 00:29:15,920
to a middle class life,
secure, and free from poverty.
225
00:29:18,240 --> 00:29:21,080
Private schools are full
226
00:29:21,080 --> 00:29:25,280
and colleges and universities
are turning out graduates
in record numbers.
227
00:29:26,600 --> 00:29:30,400
And they're all looking for a job.
228
00:29:42,800 --> 00:29:48,520
So whenever vacancies arise,
Indian Railways are inundated
with applications.
229
00:29:50,880 --> 00:29:53,600
You can pick up an application
form around most stations
230
00:29:53,600 --> 00:29:56,560
and for a few rupees they'll
show you how to fill it in.
231
00:30:00,520 --> 00:30:03,920
The railway receives so many
applications in fact,
232
00:30:03,920 --> 00:30:08,200
that they have to hold
examinations almost monthly
at centres across the city.
233
00:30:12,720 --> 00:30:18,760
It's a high security operation
with an armed escort by the
railway's own police force.
234
00:30:44,600 --> 00:30:52,160
Whether you are a budding driver,
a clerk or a signalman, the odds
of success are about sixty to one.
235
00:31:00,000 --> 00:31:06,680
At exam centres around the city,
18,000 hopefuls are cramming
up to the last minute.
236
00:31:06,680 --> 00:31:11,800
At stake are 300 vacancies
for Group D clerical jobs.
237
00:31:21,560 --> 00:31:28,360
Many of the candidates are
graduates and the exams are tough -
in both English and Hindi.
238
00:31:32,240 --> 00:31:34,880
But the rewards are guaranteed.
239
00:31:34,880 --> 00:31:37,920
A job with the railways is
an attractive proposition
240
00:31:37,920 --> 00:31:40,880
because if you are successful,
it's a job for life.
241
00:31:40,880 --> 00:31:44,800
Free medical care,
a pension, housing...
242
00:31:44,800 --> 00:31:47,960
security for you and your
family in this life...
243
00:31:47,960 --> 00:31:50,200
and maybe beyond.
244
00:31:54,120 --> 00:31:57,800
In a city where there's a
chronic shortage of housing
245
00:31:57,800 --> 00:32:02,960
and where seven million people
live in slums, finding
a home is difficult.
246
00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:08,000
But for railway employees,
housing comes with the job.
247
00:32:08,000 --> 00:32:13,440
They're all allocated accommodation
in one of the railway's
many colonies.
248
00:32:13,440 --> 00:32:19,160
And Badhwar Park
is the best railway address in town.
249
00:32:19,160 --> 00:32:24,080
It's home to Mumbai's top 250
railway officers and their families.
250
00:32:47,000 --> 00:32:52,680
In a city where real estate prices
are as high as New York or London,
251
00:32:52,680 --> 00:32:59,040
to live in a three bedroom apartment
in the centre of town is beyond the
means of all but the very rich.
252
00:33:02,160 --> 00:33:07,440
I think the cost of our flats...
253
00:33:07,440 --> 00:33:12,880
the market value of that
I'm telling you is more than
30 millions or so...
254
00:33:12,880 --> 00:33:18,000
In terms of Rupees, I'm telling you,
more than 30 million to 40 million.
255
00:33:18,000 --> 00:33:22,080
We just can't imagine
living in such a place.
256
00:33:24,560 --> 00:33:29,640
But officers of the railway
live here with their families
for just a nominal rent.
257
00:33:31,160 --> 00:33:35,320
The railway family of Badhwar Park
is conservative and traditional.
258
00:33:35,320 --> 00:33:38,400
Its clubs and societies
reflect a colonial past.
259
00:33:38,400 --> 00:33:43,880
But its confidence and success
are very much of today.
260
00:33:43,880 --> 00:33:46,480
I declare this meet open...
261
00:34:00,680 --> 00:34:06,480
Badhwar Park is an exclusive colony
for the railway's top managers.
262
00:34:06,480 --> 00:34:08,520
And it's a one-off.
263
00:34:08,520 --> 00:34:13,960
You may be there for
four years, maybe forty -
it depends on your next posting.
264
00:34:32,880 --> 00:34:38,480
But for the majority of railway
employees, colonies provide a
simple but comfortable home.
265
00:34:45,720 --> 00:34:49,040
Such care makes for a stable and
traditional family environment.
266
00:34:49,040 --> 00:34:51,400
And most importantly,
267
00:34:51,400 --> 00:34:54,080
a contented workforce.
268
00:34:54,080 --> 00:34:56,760
This is my railway colony...
269
00:34:56,760 --> 00:35:01,240
and we are at the prime location of
Bombay. That is Santa Cruz East.
270
00:35:03,200 --> 00:35:05,600
SMASHING GLASS
HE LAUGHS
271
00:35:08,320 --> 00:35:11,920
We're giving rent - nominal rent.
272
00:35:11,920 --> 00:35:15,800
Free facilities, free maintenance,
nothing to be bothered about.
273
00:35:18,160 --> 00:35:20,720
It is very near to airport.
274
00:35:20,720 --> 00:35:23,960
Very near to station, obviously.
TRAIN TOOTS
275
00:35:23,960 --> 00:35:29,840
Near to station means we are very
much in a helping hand of railways -
276
00:35:29,840 --> 00:35:33,880
to go by railway, for
the railways, to the railways.
277
00:35:35,280 --> 00:35:38,840
The concept of the railway colony
as an essential ingredient
278
00:35:38,840 --> 00:35:42,280
for a happy and efficient workforce,
was a British import.
279
00:35:42,280 --> 00:35:46,960
60 years after they left,
it's still working well.
280
00:35:46,960 --> 00:35:50,880
There hasn't been a strike
on the railways since 1972.
281
00:36:03,200 --> 00:36:08,400
The British construction of
the railways revolutionised
the economy of the country
282
00:36:08,400 --> 00:36:12,640
and transformed Mumbai
into the commercial capital
of the Arabian Sea.
283
00:36:21,800 --> 00:36:26,000
Victoria Terminus was positioned
to face the port,
284
00:36:26,000 --> 00:36:29,480
a beacon of empire
and international trade.
285
00:36:31,520 --> 00:36:36,000
It was a statement
of imperial power and success.
286
00:36:42,720 --> 00:36:48,760
Built by the Great India
Peninsula Railway in 1888
to house its headquarters,
287
00:36:48,760 --> 00:36:52,160
Victoria Terminus was
to the British Empire
288
00:36:52,160 --> 00:36:55,040
what the Taj Mahal
was to the Moguls.
289
00:36:59,040 --> 00:37:03,080
It's over a hundred years
since VT was built.
290
00:37:03,080 --> 00:37:07,520
Now it's called
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus -
291
00:37:07,520 --> 00:37:12,160
it's become a World Heritage site.
292
00:37:12,160 --> 00:37:17,480
The British brought the railways to
India and now it's the railways
that bring many of them back.
293
00:37:19,960 --> 00:37:26,800
At VT station a group of train
enthusiasts are making a nostalgic
journey into the world of steam.
294
00:37:26,800 --> 00:37:29,800
If you want to have a look,
see where you're sitting...
295
00:37:32,480 --> 00:37:38,920
John and Les, Chris and Alex,
and their leader, Peter -
an accountant from Doncaster -
296
00:37:38,920 --> 00:37:42,440
have all come here to live
the train spotter's dream.
297
00:37:42,440 --> 00:37:47,120
There's a travelling ticket inspector
down at the bottom there where I want
to take a picture...
298
00:37:47,120 --> 00:37:51,560
If anybody wants to wander down
and have a look at the loco
then by all means do.
299
00:37:51,560 --> 00:37:54,600
Should the train go while you're
down there, just get in at
300
00:37:54,600 --> 00:37:57,240
the nearest doorway and amble
back here at the first stop.
301
00:37:59,040 --> 00:38:02,600
We like trains, y'know...
302
00:38:02,600 --> 00:38:07,520
I've always had a big interest,
303
00:38:07,520 --> 00:38:13,440
but I've never quite found time to
follow up as much as I would like.
304
00:38:15,800 --> 00:38:18,280
We're going to do
this line to Matheran
305
00:38:18,280 --> 00:38:23,680
which has a locomotive which
came originally from the
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway.
306
00:38:23,680 --> 00:38:27,720
So we want to see that,
photograph it, travel behind it.
307
00:38:27,720 --> 00:38:33,480
Unfortunately the line has been
closed up to Matheran due to
a landslide.
308
00:38:33,480 --> 00:38:35,200
We can go part way only.
309
00:38:40,280 --> 00:38:42,960
It's a pocket atlas...
This is a very unhandy map!
310
00:38:45,360 --> 00:38:46,600
WHISTLE BLOWS
311
00:38:52,920 --> 00:38:58,720
It all stems from when I was a child
and there was a railway at the
bottom of the garden, I think.
312
00:38:58,720 --> 00:39:01,120
And I haven't recovered
from that yet!
313
00:39:06,240 --> 00:39:12,600
I'm a signal engineer...
I can bore for Britain on signals!
314
00:39:14,640 --> 00:39:20,160
When the heat of the plains
became too hot for the Raj,
they headed for the hills
315
00:39:20,160 --> 00:39:26,360
where a cooler climate,
an airy bungalow and a cold beer
could ease the burden of empire.
316
00:39:39,720 --> 00:39:42,480
TRAIN WHISTLE SHRIEKS
317
00:39:46,080 --> 00:39:47,920
TRAIN WHISTLES
318
00:39:52,080 --> 00:39:56,280
INDIAN MUSIC PLAYS
319
00:40:02,240 --> 00:40:06,840
The Matheran was a hill top resort
with fresh air, stunning views
320
00:40:06,840 --> 00:40:10,880
and reportedly, 'free from
any suspicion of malaria.'
321
00:40:10,880 --> 00:40:13,720
But to get there,
they needed a railway.
322
00:40:18,040 --> 00:40:22,560
The line was built by the son of a
wealthy Indian, who established the
323
00:40:22,560 --> 00:40:26,840
Matheran Steam Light Tramway Company
which opened the line in 1907.
324
00:40:31,360 --> 00:40:38,240
Today's trip is only as far as
Jumupatti Station - normally just
an hour or so from the railhead.
325
00:40:38,240 --> 00:40:44,160
But with the train at their
disposal, they're determined to get
as many drive-bys as they can.
326
00:40:44,160 --> 00:40:47,480
So it could take much longer.
327
00:40:47,480 --> 00:40:53,200
Cameras loaded, cards sent,
diaries written, it's the high point
328
00:40:53,200 --> 00:40:58,320
of a two week hill station tour,
from where the British once ruled
India.
329
00:41:01,520 --> 00:41:05,160
Today, it's a very different story.
330
00:41:08,280 --> 00:41:12,840
I couldn't believe it when I heard
they'd been bowled out for 323...
331
00:41:12,840 --> 00:41:16,920
The Matheran Railway was merely a
means to an end for the British Raj.
332
00:41:16,920 --> 00:41:21,040
To these steam enthusiasts,
it's a minor miracle.
333
00:41:21,040 --> 00:41:24,320
But today's Indian Railways
has even greater ambitions...
334
00:41:24,320 --> 00:41:26,760
TRAINS HOOTS LOUDLY
335
00:41:38,280 --> 00:41:44,680
The British once dreamed of
building a railway line along the
coast from Mumbai to the south.
336
00:41:44,680 --> 00:41:47,960
But they decided it was too costly
and too difficult.
337
00:41:47,960 --> 00:41:52,200
But in 1990,
Indian Railways started building.
338
00:41:52,200 --> 00:41:59,360
Known as the Konkan Railway, it took
eight years to complete, and it's
recognised as an engineering marvel.
339
00:42:20,320 --> 00:42:25,840
Ninety one tunnels, over 2,000
bridges and 700 kilometres long,
340
00:42:25,840 --> 00:42:28,480
it runs to Kerala and the south.
341
00:42:32,880 --> 00:42:36,560
It was the railway's most ambitious
project in the last ten years...
342
00:42:36,560 --> 00:42:40,160
and it's knocked eighteen
hours off the journey time.
343
00:42:41,840 --> 00:42:47,120
Mumbai to Goa is the most
popular and most profitable
stretch on the Konkan line.
344
00:42:47,120 --> 00:42:51,760
In recent years it's become
a regular route for the city's
middle classes.
345
00:42:51,760 --> 00:42:55,440
THEY SING NOISILY
346
00:42:55,440 --> 00:43:00,760
Goa - a place to relax, suitable
for family holidays, for those all
important office away-days.
347
00:43:00,760 --> 00:43:04,600
And for the young,
it's a place to party.
348
00:43:04,600 --> 00:43:08,680
Why Goa? Because a) the
men have all the profit.
349
00:43:08,680 --> 00:43:13,960
After long working days, you have
good-looking women, you have lots
of water, you have lots of booze.
350
00:43:13,960 --> 00:43:18,040
As for the women, you have lots of
good-looking men, lots of water,
lots of booze - that's why!
351
00:43:21,680 --> 00:43:23,880
It's a kind of a chill zone there.
352
00:43:23,880 --> 00:43:26,200
You don't think
about your work there.
353
00:43:26,200 --> 00:43:28,560
It's completely free - relaxed.
354
00:43:28,560 --> 00:43:31,640
You just get up in the morning,
and hit the beach...
355
00:43:31,640 --> 00:43:34,480
just laze around on the beach
and do what you want.
356
00:43:44,120 --> 00:43:50,520
Jagdish Raj and his crew
are in the pantry car cooking
dinner for the passengers.
357
00:43:50,520 --> 00:43:56,040
At less than a pound for a chicken
fried rice, it's cheap, very cheap.
358
00:43:56,040 --> 00:43:58,600
TRAIN HORN BLARES
359
00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:07,800
Chicken fried rice,
chicken chilli, chicken noodles...
360
00:44:07,800 --> 00:44:09,160
Chicken tikka, no?
361
00:44:09,160 --> 00:44:12,360
With a menu of simple continental,
Chinese, and Indian food...
362
00:44:12,360 --> 00:44:14,800
a thousand passengers a day...
363
00:44:14,800 --> 00:44:16,760
seven days a week...
364
00:44:16,760 --> 00:44:19,600
it's a profitable franchise.
365
00:44:42,320 --> 00:44:46,200
Goa is the new playground of Mumbai.
366
00:44:46,200 --> 00:44:48,720
12 hours by overnight train.
367
00:44:51,960 --> 00:44:55,800
It's become India's favourite
destination for honeymooning
couples.
368
00:44:58,480 --> 00:45:02,480
And Goa is a golden opportunity
for Jagdish,
369
00:45:02,480 --> 00:45:05,960
he's planning his dream future.
370
00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:10,040
A gambling casino, a boutique hotel,
an Italian restaurant...
371
00:45:10,040 --> 00:45:13,520
but so far there are
no plans to marry.
372
00:45:16,040 --> 00:45:17,920
Either a man is happy or married.
373
00:45:27,200 --> 00:45:34,200
With miles of unspoilt tropical
beaches, Goa is also a favourite
location for Bollywood scenes.
374
00:45:34,200 --> 00:45:36,560
ELEPHANT TRUMPETS
375
00:45:36,560 --> 00:45:39,760
Twelve months ago, Arun,
son of Hans, was cast in an ad
376
00:45:39,760 --> 00:45:42,920
for an American insurance company,
shooting in Goa.
377
00:45:44,560 --> 00:45:48,720
The ad was successful
so they're shooting another one.
378
00:45:52,280 --> 00:45:55,520
This time on VT Station,
379
00:45:55,520 --> 00:45:57,880
with the elephant.
380
00:46:01,880 --> 00:46:05,360
Arun is only eleven years old,
381
00:46:05,360 --> 00:46:08,920
but he's already following in
father's footsteps.
382
00:46:17,960 --> 00:46:23,400
They gave me a hint - "OK, Hans,
your kid has a spark of acting.
383
00:46:23,400 --> 00:46:24,920
"Just give him a push."
384
00:46:27,120 --> 00:46:31,000
I'm not expecting anything from him,
I'm just doing my duty.
385
00:46:31,000 --> 00:46:34,200
That is his duty whether
he can do it or not.
I'm not expecting anything.
386
00:46:42,960 --> 00:46:47,400
The son is doing something
better than his father,
so that is a great part of that.
387
00:46:47,400 --> 00:46:50,240
And I feel very much proud of that.
Very much proud.
388
00:46:57,360 --> 00:46:58,840
THE CHILDREN SHOUT
389
00:46:58,840 --> 00:47:01,840
THE ELEPHANT TRUMPETS
390
00:47:04,360 --> 00:47:10,560
Today, India's online middle
classes number almost 400 million
391
00:47:10,560 --> 00:47:13,520
and they're on a spending spree.
392
00:47:15,440 --> 00:47:22,560
In suburban shopping malls,
young Mumbaikers hang out just like
their western counterparts.
393
00:47:22,560 --> 00:47:27,240
But when it comes to marriage, they
follow the wishes of the family...
394
00:47:27,240 --> 00:47:32,480
and a tradition
that has lasted for 5000 years.
395
00:47:35,760 --> 00:47:41,000
After two weeks of searching,
Mumtaz has turned up several options
396
00:47:41,000 --> 00:47:44,840
for her brother and he's
already met six of them.
397
00:47:44,840 --> 00:47:49,760
In Canada, their parents
and the rest of the family
are anxiously waiting for news.
398
00:48:04,800 --> 00:48:08,240
First option was a dentist.
399
00:48:08,240 --> 00:48:11,720
She was a dentist and...
HE LAUGHS
400
00:48:11,720 --> 00:48:13,760
..but the girl was not good-looking.
401
00:48:13,760 --> 00:48:17,000
So...nobody liked that option.
402
00:48:17,000 --> 00:48:21,640
So then we went for
the second option.
403
00:48:21,640 --> 00:48:26,640
She was a B. Pharm plus MBA.
404
00:48:26,640 --> 00:48:32,280
She was very good, very cute
and even I liked her,
everybody liked her.
405
00:48:47,600 --> 00:48:50,480
The real problem is that
I don't have enough time.
406
00:48:50,480 --> 00:48:52,640
The time is running
out from my hand.
407
00:49:06,880 --> 00:49:12,160
On the early morning train
to Pune, Mumtaz and Feroz,
and a tired young Taushib,
408
00:49:12,160 --> 00:49:16,080
are off to meet another
selection of potential brides.
409
00:49:16,080 --> 00:49:18,440
But they're all graduates.
410
00:49:24,200 --> 00:49:32,080
One is doctor - MBBS, and one is MBA
- Master of Business Administration.
411
00:49:34,240 --> 00:49:36,240
I think this will
be the last chance!
412
00:49:38,520 --> 00:49:41,440
I can't go home empty-handed!
413
00:49:42,760 --> 00:49:46,760
Yeah, it's the decision
of a lifetime...yeah...
414
00:49:48,400 --> 00:49:52,360
Whole...life depends on this.
415
00:50:21,240 --> 00:50:27,400
After two months of searching
for his dream girl,
it's finally happened.
416
00:50:27,400 --> 00:50:31,640
Her name is Shabana and she
and Feroz are to be married
417
00:50:31,640 --> 00:50:35,080
at the Officers Club
near Matunga Station.
418
00:50:36,400 --> 00:50:43,120
They met on the internet and
their first face-to-face meeting
was just two weeks ago.
419
00:50:43,120 --> 00:50:49,000
She's an MBA now working
in Bahrain, and she flew
to Mumbai to meet Feroz.
420
00:50:50,560 --> 00:50:55,880
The match was agreed,
and now Shabana has married
into a railway family.
421
00:52:27,800 --> 00:52:31,800
RADIO COMMENTARY DROWNED BY SHOUTING
422
00:52:31,800 --> 00:52:35,560
RADIO: Against Pakistan at Lahore
in 2004 when India...
423
00:52:35,560 --> 00:52:38,160
RADIO CONTINUES FAINTLY
424
00:52:47,560 --> 00:52:49,800
INDISTINCT SPEECH
425
00:52:58,160 --> 00:53:00,920
I had applied for a tender
for a particular train
426
00:53:00,920 --> 00:53:04,320
to run the onboard pantry car
catering on the Mangalore express.
427
00:53:05,920 --> 00:53:09,000
And we had to bid for the train.
I bid for the train,
428
00:53:09,000 --> 00:53:12,800
but somehow my bid was a bit low
so I am not a successful bidder.
429
00:53:12,800 --> 00:53:15,280
They have sent my cheque back
430
00:53:15,280 --> 00:53:18,840
with a letter saying that the
successful bidder's got the train.
431
00:53:48,480 --> 00:53:52,600
Jagdish Paul Raj
grew up with the railway.
432
00:53:52,600 --> 00:53:58,440
Thanks to the railway he's
become a successful player
in the catering business.
433
00:53:58,440 --> 00:54:00,480
But we all grow up
with some kind of dream.
434
00:54:00,480 --> 00:54:04,200
Everyone has a dream when they're
growing up, they have a dream.
435
00:54:04,200 --> 00:54:08,760
Some dream of becoming a
cricketer or a businessman
or an engineer or a doctor...
436
00:54:08,760 --> 00:54:10,560
So everyone dreams.
437
00:54:10,560 --> 00:54:12,680
FIREWORKS EXPLODE
438
00:54:13,840 --> 00:54:17,160
I grew up listening to the
sound of the train moving.
439
00:54:17,160 --> 00:54:20,240
I will always be associated
with the railways.
440
00:54:20,240 --> 00:54:22,360
I will try to.
441
00:54:36,040 --> 00:54:43,680
Mumbai Railways, like the city
it serves, is overcrowded,
ambitious and optimistic.
442
00:54:46,080 --> 00:54:52,960
Thanks to the railways,
operating officer Hans Dev Sharma
is living the dream.
443
00:54:52,960 --> 00:54:57,040
Railways are his life and his stage.
444
00:55:01,920 --> 00:55:04,880
No doubt railways are
bread and butter to me.
445
00:55:04,880 --> 00:55:08,480
And cultural activities
in the railways
446
00:55:08,480 --> 00:55:15,000
are the juice - cup of juices -
cup of milkshakes,
cup of Bournvitas to me.
447
00:55:15,000 --> 00:55:17,120
They're boosting
me up more and more.
448
00:55:17,120 --> 00:55:20,160
Bread and butter, the juices and all,
you can live a good life.
449
00:55:46,400 --> 00:55:48,400
THEY SING BOLLYWOOD-STYLE
450
00:57:54,440 --> 00:57:55,880
WHISTLE BLOWS
451
00:58:12,680 --> 00:58:16,800
HE HUMS THE SAME TUNE
452
00:58:34,960 --> 00:58:38,040
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
453
00:58:38,040 --> 00:58:41,000
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
42610
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