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(wind whistling)
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(triumphant music)
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(lively music)
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- Our journey
begins in Fort William,
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one of the largest towns
in the Scottish Highlands,
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before following the Great Glen Way,
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the geological fault line
that slashes across Scotland.
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It takes us along the
Caledonian Canal to Loch Ness,
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home to the world's most
famous mythical monster.
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Next we pass through Inverness,
capital of the Highlands
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and site of some of
Scotland's bloodiest battles
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before continuing on to the settlements
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at the northernmost tip
of the British mainland.
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After crossing the Pentland Firth,
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we reach the hauntingly-beautiful
Orkney Islands,
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glimpsing the mysterious
Neolithic monuments
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that make up a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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We end our journey at one of Scotland's
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most extraordinary natural structures,
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the tallest sea stack in
Britain, the Old Man of Hoy.
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(gentle music)
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In the shadow of Britain's
tallest peak, Ben Nevis,
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in the heart of the Highlands
lies the town of Fort William.
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People have lived here
since the eighth century.
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The surrounding area is famous
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as the backdrop of the film "Braveheart."
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Today Fort William is known
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as the outdoor capital of the UK
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and is an important tourist center,
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particularly for climbers
of nearby Ben Nevis.
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It's from here we begin our journey
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along one of the world's
greatest waterways,
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the Caledonian Canal.
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It cleverly combines bold engineering
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with Scotland's natural landscape,
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linking the lochs into a single waterway.
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This section of the canal
leads us over Loch Lochy,
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long, straight, and set
amidst rolling hills.
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Not to be outdone by its
famous neighbor, Loch Ness,
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Lochy also has a monster, the River Horse.
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It emerges when it's time
to feed on the shores.
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If bothered, the creature
plunges back into the loch
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where it overturns boats
and leads other horses
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into the waters to their doom.
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Today the most commonly-found
animal in Loch Lochy is fish,
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particular trout, for
which fishermen travel
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from all over the world.
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We now move to the green
floodplains en route to Loch Oich.
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It may be a picture of tranquility now,
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but in times past it was witness
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to horrific scenes of violence.
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It was here in 1544
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that the Battle of the Shirts was fought.
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A vicious clash between
four separate clans
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is said to have turned the loch red
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with the blood of their fallen.
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These days the narrow
waters of Loch Oich are home
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to more sedate activities.
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Surrounded by green woodlands,
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it teems with fish and wildlife.
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We continue to nearby Fort Augustus,
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a picturesque settlement
on the shores of Loch Ness.
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The abbey was once a place
for Benedictine monks,
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but is now a hotel.
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It's known as the gateway to Loch Ness.
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Here, a magnificent sequence of lochs
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leaves the Caledonian canal
down and into the lake.
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Holding more water than all the lakes
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in England and Wales combined,
the magnificent Loch Ness
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is the largest of all
the lakes on our journey.
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It is 230 meters at its deepest point
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and over 36 kilometers long.
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It's best known the world
over for being the watery lair
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of the legendary Loch Ness monster.
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(somber music)
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The first recorded sighting
of the beast was in 565 A.D.
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St. Columba, an Irish priest,
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claims to have prevented the monster
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from attacking a villager
by raising his cross
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and shouting, "Stop, go thou
no further nor touch the man!"
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Since then, Nessie has
been more circumspect
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in her appearances.
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The mystery, though, lives on.
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Each year millions of
people come in the hope
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of catching a glimpse of
the Loch Ness monster.
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(gentle music)
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On the banks stands the
famous Castle Urquhart.
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A fort has stood here
for over 1,500 years,
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today it is only a ruin.
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In the 14th century, Castle
Urquhart came under the control
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of Robert the Bruce as he
rose to become king of Scots.
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When he died in 1332, this
was the only Highland castle
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holding out against the English.
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Amongst its remnants, the
Grant Tower still stands,
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giving panoramic views
out across the loch.
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In 2011, more than 300,000
people visited the fortress,
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making it one of the most popular
tourist sites in Scotland.
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Loch Ness makes up just one section
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of a 97-kilometer waterway
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that cuts through the
heart of the Highlands,
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linking the North Sea with the Atlantic.
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Considered a miracle of
19th-century engineering,
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the Caledonian Canal
Project set out to connect
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these magnificent lochs.
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Work began in 1803 and was masterminded
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by the great engineer Thomas Telford.
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It was planned to take
seven years to complete
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and would be one of Britain's
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biggest-ever building projects.
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In the early 19th
century, without machines,
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digging with picks and
shovels was backbreaking work.
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19 years later and having spent
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almost double Telford's estimate,
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a staggering $70 billion in today's money,
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the canal finally opened for business.
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But by then, many of the
cargo ships of the day
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were too big to pass along the waterway.
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Yet, in 1873, the canal
found another calling
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when it was visited by Queen Victoria.
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The publicity surrounding her trip
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caused a huge increase in
visitors to the region.
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Today, the Caledonian Canal
with its breathtaking scenery
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is visited each year by about
half a million tourists,
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many of whom take the chance to enjoy
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the three-day cruise along its length.
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Our route along the canal
ends here, at Inverness.
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The capital of the Highlands,
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it's home to over 65,000 people.
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Considered a vital part
of the Scottish economy,
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here, traditional
industries like distilleries
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rub shoulders with high-tech
firms and creative companies.
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In the heart of the city
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is the Cathedral Church of Saint Andrew.
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It was supposed to be
topped by a 30-meter spire,
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but funds ran out, and
it was left unfinished.
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The Kessock Bridge links
the city of Inverness
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with the village of North Kessock.
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From here on a good day,
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it's sometimes possible to spot dolphins.
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We continue on to the Moray
Firth where the fresh waters
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of the Great Glen Way run
out into the North Sea.
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Close by, occupying a commanding,
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strategic position, is Fort George.
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It's the finest example
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of 18th-century military
engineering in the British Isles.
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(gentle soaring music)
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Behind these vast walls
are garrison buildings,
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parade grounds, and artillery defenses
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brisling with cannons.
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To defend the keep,
there's a large, dry moat
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with a drawbridge,
making enemies vulnerable
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to gunfire from the walls.
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The fort was built to help put down
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the Jacobite rebellions
against the British king,
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but by the time the
construction was completed,
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the fighting was over.
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No shot in anger has ever been fired.
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Instead, the fort became a recruiting base
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and a training camp for the
rapidly-expanding British Army.
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Many Highland soldiers
pass through its gates
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on their way to fight for
the Empire across the globe.
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The architecture of the fortress
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has hardly been changed
since it was built.
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Today it's home to the famous Scottish
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infantry regiment, the Black Watch.
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(upbeat dramatic music)
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Our journey now takes out to sea
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and to this jack-up oil rig.
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The oil and gas industry
is vital to the area
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and to the wider UK economy.
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Centered in Aberdeen, the
North Sea oil industry
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delivers almost half of
Britain's energy needs.
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As the most accessible reserves dwindle,
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drillers are beginning
to explore smaller fields
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in remote locations using new techniques.
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This is helping to make
Scotland an international center
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for cutting-edge engineering firms.
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The oil and gas industry currently employs
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some 60,000 offshore personnel.
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Work is tough and hours are long,
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but the pay isn't that
bad, with an average salary
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that's well over $100,000 a year.
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(gentle music)
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We move now over the Black
Isle to the Cromarty Firth
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and the magnificent
bridge of the same name.
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The kilometer-long span opened in 1979
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to replace the ferry service.
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The only other option
before its construction
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was to drive a long route
inland to get to the other side.
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Close by on the edge of the
beautiful Dornoch Firth,
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we find ourselves in one of
the most exclusive locations
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in Scotland, Skibo Castle.
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Amidst 30 square kilometers
of magnificent grounds,
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a castle has stood here
in one form or another
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for around 900 years.
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(dramatic music)
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Rebuilt, modified, and extended
many times in that period,
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it was bought in the early 20th century
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as a summer home by
industrialist Andrew Carnegie.
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He had been born to a
working-class single room household
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in Scottish Dunfermline
before emigrating to America.
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By 1902, he returned to Scotland
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the richest man in the world,
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determined to spend his
fortune as a philanthropist.
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The castle stayed in the hands
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of the Carnegie family until the 1980s.
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Today it's operated as The Carnegie Club,
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a members-only hotel and
private country resort.
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Over the years it's welcomed
many well-known personalities,
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particularly when it
hosted Madonna's wedding
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to Guy Ritchie in the year 2000.
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The grounds include the
artificial Lake Louise.
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00:14:16,800 --> 00:14:18,830
It's one of only a few bodies of water
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in Scotland known as lakes.
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Also on the estate are 12 family lodges
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and a recently-restored bathhouse
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with a swimming pool and spa.
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(cheerful music)
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Perhaps most astonishing
is that the castle
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sits amidst its own 18-hole golf course,
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which remains private.
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Only 3,000 rounds are played
on this links course each year.
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The 17th hole is considered
particularly tricky
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with deep bunkers around
the front of the green.
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But no matter how you fare,
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you'll be serenaded back to the castle
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with your very own Scottish bagpiper
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in time for a gourmet dinner.
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Our journey now seems to take us
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into a fairytale picture book
as we reach Dunrobin Castle.
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00:15:24,209 --> 00:15:27,170
(gentle music)
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With its turrets and spires,
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the rambling ramshackle fortress
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has been home to the Earls
and Dukes of Sutherland
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since the 13th century.
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In Gaelic, the name Dunrobin
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means Robin's Hill and may have come
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from Robert the 6th Earl of
Sutherland, who died in 1427.
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00:15:53,230 --> 00:15:57,840
During World War I, this place
was used as a naval hospital.
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In 1915, a fire broke out.
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00:16:01,290 --> 00:16:04,630
It's said that the damage
would've been much worse
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had a crew from a nearby
naval ship not rush ashore
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00:16:08,490 --> 00:16:11,853
to form a bucket chain to
the sea to tackle the fire.
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00:16:15,160 --> 00:16:18,610
The formal gardens were
carefully laid out in 1850
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by architect Sir Charles Barry,
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best known for the Houses
of Parliament in London.
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00:16:25,690 --> 00:16:29,460
Designed around two circular
pools with fountains,
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00:16:29,460 --> 00:16:31,620
Barry said his inspiration
249
00:16:31,620 --> 00:16:34,513
was the Palace of Versailles near Paris.
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(gentle music)
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Heading north, we passed
through the Northern Highlands,
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a land of stark, bleak beauty.
253
00:17:02,990 --> 00:17:04,900
Teetering high on a cliff edge
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00:17:04,900 --> 00:17:08,173
over Sinclair's Bay, we find Keiss Castle.
255
00:17:12,100 --> 00:17:16,403
Over time, the North Sea has
eroded most of the foundations.
256
00:17:20,010 --> 00:17:23,920
It was built in the 16th
century as a country retreat
257
00:17:23,920 --> 00:17:25,843
but soon fell into disrepair.
258
00:17:28,800 --> 00:17:33,040
Abandoned in 1755, Keiss now stands
259
00:17:33,040 --> 00:17:35,234
only as a famous ruin.
260
00:17:35,234 --> 00:17:38,700
(birds calling)
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00:17:38,700 --> 00:17:41,620
Cracks continue to grow around the walls,
262
00:17:41,620 --> 00:17:43,740
and it's likely that more of the castle
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00:17:43,740 --> 00:17:46,933
will collapse into the
sea over the coming years.
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00:17:53,130 --> 00:17:56,100
We've now reached the
most northeasterly point
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00:17:56,100 --> 00:17:59,073
of the British mainland, Duncansby Head.
266
00:18:00,110 --> 00:18:03,473
Here, the Pentland Firth
meets the North Sea.
267
00:18:06,060 --> 00:18:08,720
The two pyramid-shaped sea stacks that jut
268
00:18:08,720 --> 00:18:13,450
from the water like teeth are
called the Duncansby Stacks.
269
00:18:13,450 --> 00:18:17,050
The Great Stack is over 60 meters high,
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00:18:17,050 --> 00:18:19,783
higher than the summit
of the nearby cliff.
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00:18:21,330 --> 00:18:24,350
Being so close to Norway,
this place was the scene
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00:18:24,350 --> 00:18:26,660
of a number of sea and air clashes
273
00:18:26,660 --> 00:18:28,343
during the Second World War.
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00:18:29,700 --> 00:18:33,290
Today, the sea stacks
are a more sedate place,
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00:18:33,290 --> 00:18:35,750
home to a variety of rare birds
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00:18:35,750 --> 00:18:40,223
including colonies of guillemots,
razorbills, and puffins.
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00:18:43,440 --> 00:18:47,200
Nearby and amongst the most
famous place names in Britain,
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00:18:47,200 --> 00:18:48,830
John o' Groats is the end
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00:18:48,830 --> 00:18:52,693
of many a sponsored walk,
run, and charity bike ride.
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00:18:54,410 --> 00:18:57,103
But the town is largely
famous for a mistake.
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00:18:58,110 --> 00:19:00,330
Often thought to be the
most northerly point
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00:19:00,330 --> 00:19:02,763
of the British mainland, it's not.
283
00:19:04,320 --> 00:19:07,380
That distinction goes to
Dunnet Head Lighthouse,
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00:19:07,380 --> 00:19:10,100
which stands heroically at the very point
285
00:19:10,100 --> 00:19:13,423
at which the Atlantic
Ocean meets the North Sea.
286
00:19:15,903 --> 00:19:18,570
(gentle music)
287
00:19:18,570 --> 00:19:23,570
Beyond Britannia where the
endless ocean opens lies Orkney,
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00:19:23,740 --> 00:19:28,740
so said Orosius, a Portuguese
priest in the fifth century.
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00:19:29,150 --> 00:19:32,220
And following in his wake,
our journey now takes us
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00:19:32,220 --> 00:19:35,670
some 15 kilometers to that very place,
291
00:19:35,670 --> 00:19:40,073
the Orkneys, an archipelago of 70 islands.
292
00:19:44,040 --> 00:19:48,130
Bounded by 200-meter cliffs
and steep heathery hills
293
00:19:48,130 --> 00:19:51,163
is Rackwick Bay Beach
on the island of Hoy.
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00:19:54,820 --> 00:19:58,640
A turquoise cove set against
these dramatic hills,
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00:19:58,640 --> 00:20:01,363
it's one of Orkney's iconic sites.
296
00:20:05,770 --> 00:20:09,120
It was this landscape
that so inspired the work
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00:20:09,120 --> 00:20:12,280
of George Mackay Brown, considered to be
298
00:20:12,280 --> 00:20:16,110
one of the greatest Scottish
poets of the 20th century,
299
00:20:16,110 --> 00:20:18,503
and it's easy to see why.
300
00:20:21,490 --> 00:20:24,790
Further down the beach is Rackwick Bothy,
301
00:20:24,790 --> 00:20:27,480
once the home of
smallholders and fishermen
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00:20:27,480 --> 00:20:30,290
who grafted a living
from the land and sea,
303
00:20:30,290 --> 00:20:32,770
this restored croft is now a place
304
00:20:32,770 --> 00:20:36,613
where walkers, climbers, and
visitors can find shelter.
305
00:20:43,720 --> 00:20:46,230
Our journey now takes us to the origins
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00:20:46,230 --> 00:20:50,763
of the Orkney Islands, a place
shrouded in age and mystery.
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00:20:51,610 --> 00:20:53,900
Here in the center of Mainland
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00:20:53,900 --> 00:20:55,943
is the burial chamber of Maeshowe.
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00:20:58,350 --> 00:21:03,313
It dates from the Neolithic
period around 2700 B.C.
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00:21:05,290 --> 00:21:08,110
Amazingly, the chamber is designed
311
00:21:08,110 --> 00:21:10,050
so that during the winter solstice,
312
00:21:10,050 --> 00:21:12,210
the last rays of the midwinter sun
313
00:21:12,210 --> 00:21:14,750
shine directly through
the entrance passage
314
00:21:14,750 --> 00:21:17,513
to light the rear wall
of the central room.
315
00:21:19,590 --> 00:21:22,520
Today, Maeshowe is one of the monuments
316
00:21:22,520 --> 00:21:25,880
that make up the UNESCO
World Heritage Site,
317
00:21:25,880 --> 00:21:28,323
the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
318
00:21:33,310 --> 00:21:37,650
Nearby is the Ring of
Brodgar, a relative newcomer,
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00:21:37,650 --> 00:21:42,283
having been built a few hundred
years later around 2000 B.C.
320
00:21:43,140 --> 00:21:47,400
The stone circle is
104 meters in diameter.
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00:21:47,400 --> 00:21:52,400
Originally made up of 60
stones, 27 still stand.
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00:21:53,700 --> 00:21:57,230
Nobody knows for certain
what the ring was for,
323
00:21:57,230 --> 00:22:01,190
perhaps a shrine to ancestors,
a temple to the sun,
324
00:22:01,190 --> 00:22:04,020
or an observatory of the stars.
325
00:22:04,020 --> 00:22:06,190
Local legend has it that the stones
326
00:22:06,190 --> 00:22:08,320
were a group of dancing giants
327
00:22:08,320 --> 00:22:10,900
who grew so absorbed by their party
328
00:22:10,900 --> 00:22:13,340
they forgot about the rising sun
329
00:22:13,340 --> 00:22:16,253
and were turned to
stone by the dawn light.
330
00:22:18,870 --> 00:22:21,530
Unusual for such an ancient monument
331
00:22:21,530 --> 00:22:24,440
is its true circularity.
332
00:22:24,440 --> 00:22:25,990
It's considered to be one of
333
00:22:25,990 --> 00:22:29,793
the most finely-crafted
stone circles in the world.
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00:22:32,500 --> 00:22:34,880
Moving further along the rugged west coast
335
00:22:34,880 --> 00:22:38,390
of Orkney's Mainland,
we see how the landscape
336
00:22:38,390 --> 00:22:42,429
has been shaped by the
relentless pounding of the waves.
337
00:22:42,429 --> 00:22:45,450
(waves crashing)
(birds calling)
338
00:22:45,450 --> 00:22:48,120
It's a place in constant motion.
339
00:22:48,120 --> 00:22:50,240
Cliff faces are fast eroded,
340
00:22:50,240 --> 00:22:54,373
and the land is quickly
carved out by the roiling sea.
341
00:22:56,170 --> 00:22:59,758
But the force of the ocean
isn't only destructive.
342
00:22:59,758 --> 00:23:03,030
(somber music)
343
00:23:03,030 --> 00:23:06,980
Skara Brae had been buried
and forgotten for millennia
344
00:23:06,980 --> 00:23:11,800
before a violent storm in
1850 tore away a high dune
345
00:23:11,800 --> 00:23:15,660
to reveal the outline
of ancient buildings.
346
00:23:15,660 --> 00:23:18,860
Older than Stonehenge, the Great Pyramids,
347
00:23:18,860 --> 00:23:23,270
and the Great Wall of
China, Skara Brae is unique
348
00:23:23,270 --> 00:23:26,800
for its extraordinary
degree of preservation.
349
00:23:26,800 --> 00:23:29,720
The eight homes are
built of closely-fitting
350
00:23:29,720 --> 00:23:31,810
flat stone slabs.
351
00:23:31,810 --> 00:23:34,670
Each is accessed through a low entrance
352
00:23:34,670 --> 00:23:38,940
and has a stone floor that
could be closed and bolted.
353
00:23:38,940 --> 00:23:41,260
The village has a drainage system
354
00:23:41,260 --> 00:23:44,800
and even a primitive
lavatory in each dwelling.
355
00:23:44,800 --> 00:23:48,530
Extraordinarily, the furniture
of these Neolithic people,
356
00:23:48,530 --> 00:23:53,150
stone beds and dressers,
has survived intact.
357
00:23:53,150 --> 00:23:56,450
Today, Skara Brae stands as a testament
358
00:23:56,450 --> 00:23:59,500
to the tenacity of early
man in his willingness
359
00:23:59,500 --> 00:24:02,853
to settle in such a
wild and isolated place.
360
00:24:04,787 --> 00:24:09,787
(birds calling)
(gentle music)
361
00:24:09,950 --> 00:24:13,163
We continue now to our final destination.
362
00:24:14,170 --> 00:24:18,620
At 137 meters tall, the Old Man of Hoy
363
00:24:18,620 --> 00:24:20,943
is Britain's tallest sea stack.
364
00:24:21,940 --> 00:24:24,960
With the relentless
pounding of nature's forces,
365
00:24:24,960 --> 00:24:27,240
the changes in the shape can be traced
366
00:24:27,240 --> 00:24:30,023
through the centuries
in maps and paintings.
367
00:24:32,210 --> 00:24:36,310
In 1750, the Old Man was
part of the headland,
368
00:24:36,310 --> 00:24:37,660
jutting out from the shore.
369
00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:42,840
At a later time, the sea
carved out an arch at the base,
370
00:24:42,840 --> 00:24:46,340
making it appear the stack
had two crooked legs,
371
00:24:46,340 --> 00:24:47,933
giving him his name.
372
00:24:49,870 --> 00:24:53,490
A storm, though, washed
away one of his limbs,
373
00:24:53,490 --> 00:24:55,633
leaving the pillar that remains.
374
00:25:01,500 --> 00:25:04,440
The future will almost
certainly bring about
375
00:25:04,440 --> 00:25:08,760
the Old Man's collapse, there's
already a 40-meter crack
376
00:25:08,760 --> 00:25:10,260
from the peak of the stack
377
00:25:10,260 --> 00:25:13,083
that threatens to bring
down its top section.
378
00:25:16,600 --> 00:25:19,230
But until then, the Old Man of Hoy
379
00:25:19,230 --> 00:25:21,770
refuses to return to the sea,
380
00:25:21,770 --> 00:25:24,650
unsurprising, perhaps, in this,
381
00:25:24,650 --> 00:25:28,270
one of the most resilient
landscapes in the world
382
00:25:28,270 --> 00:25:31,443
and a dramatic place to end this journey.
383
00:25:35,633 --> 00:25:38,550
(triumphant music)
384
00:25:59,404 --> 00:26:02,154
(logo whooshing)
30917
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