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(dramatic upbeat music)
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(bright upbeat music)
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- [Narrator] We start our
journey at the southern reaches
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of Saxony, heading towards
the historic city of Leipzig.
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It's then on to Colditz Castle,
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the infamous Second World War prison.
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To the south lie the Ore Mountains,
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whose silver deposits
once brought great wealth
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to the town of Freiberg.
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Joining the great river Elbe at Meissen,
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we follow it upstream to the
capital of Saxony, Dresden.
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From the splendid baroque
gardens that grow Gross-Sedlitz
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we head to the Saxon
Switzerland National Park
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that so inspired the
German romantic painters.
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The journey ends at the biggest
mountain fortress in Europe,
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Konigstein Castle.
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This is Plauen, once part
of the former East Germany.
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On the seventh of October 1989,
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the first protests against
the socialist regime
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took place here, marking the beginning
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of a series of mass demonstrations.
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It ultimately led to the
reunification of Germany
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after 40 years of separation
from its western counterpart.
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Plauen was also the first town
of the former East Germany
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to open a McDonald's restaurant,
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as the west rushed in to exploit
new business opportunities.
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But as we fly across the
southern region of Saxony,
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decades of socialist
rule can still be seen
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in the swathes of concrete tenements.
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These are relics of the
centralized housing policy
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that replaced overcrowded
and deteriorating
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pre-war buildings.
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Despite Plauen's historic
role in the downfall
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of the German democratic republic,
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its Saxony's second biggest city, Leipzig,
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that can be considered birthplace
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of the anti-communist revolution.
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Just two days after
the protests at Plauen,
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70,000 demonstrators
peacefully took to the streets
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chanting wir sind das Volk,
meaning we are the people.
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The Monday demonstrations,
as they are now known,
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served as a turning point.
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A month later, the Berlin wall,
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the symbol of a divided Germany,
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was torn down.
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2009 marked the 20th
anniversary of the protests,
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and today Leipzig is a bustling city
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of over half a million people,
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living in what's considered
to be the industrial
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and cultural center of Saxony.
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It has a long and proud
association with art and music,
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and has attracted some of the
greatest composers in history,
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such as Bach, Mendelssohn and Wagner.
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And its university gave rise to some of
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the finest scientific minds,
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as well as Germany's
first woman chancellor,
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Angela Merkel.
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And since reunification, it's
undergone a massive program
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to restore its historic landmarks.
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Like the monument commemorating
the 1813 Battle of Leipzig,
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where a coalition of nations,
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including the kingdom of Saxony,
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won a crucial victory
over Napoleon's army.
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Over 600,000 were
involved in the fighting,
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making it the largest battle in Europe
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prior to the First World War.
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Over 90,000 soldiers
were killed or injured,
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and this imposing granite faced monument,
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one of the tallest in Europe,
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is said to stand on the spot of
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some of the bloodiest fighting,
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and where Napoleon ordered the retreat.
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In the heart of the city
lies Leipzig Central Station,
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the largest railway station in Europe.
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It has 24 platforms, housed
in six iron train sheds,
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handling an average of
150,000 passengers each day.
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The city Hochhaus, or city high rise,
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is the tallest building in Leipzing,
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completed in 1972 during
the communist era.
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It was originally part of the university,
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but was sold by the state to the US
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investment bank Merrill Lynch.
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As well as a restaurant on the top floor,
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there's a roof terrace
for visitors to enjoy
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breathtaking views of Leipzig,
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which was, in 2010, included
in the New York Times
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top 10 cities to visit.
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Flying across the lowlands at Saxony,
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you can't fail to notice the
sheer number of wind farms.
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Germany is the world's third
largest user of wind power,
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after the US and China.
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With over 21,000 installations,
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it also has one of the highest number
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of turbines per capita.
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In 2011 wind power was
producing almost a tenth
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of Germany's total electricity.
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(dramatic music)
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On a picturesque clifftop,
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overlooking a medieval market town,
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stands one of the most infamous
fortresses in the world,
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Colditz Castle.
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Though there's been a castle here
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for almost a thousand years,
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the present complex was originally built
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as a royal residence.
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But after World War II,
Colditz achieved notoriety
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as the maximum security
prisoner of war camp
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declared by the Nazis to be escape-proof.
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But they were wrong.
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Allied officers who'd
made repeated attempts
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to escape from other camps
were transported to Colditz.
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But by bringing together
the best escapees,
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the Nazis effectively
created an escape academy.
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There were locksmiths, linguists, forgers,
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tailors, engineers and spies.
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Everyone had a part to play.
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In the five years as Colditz as a prison
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there were over 300 escape attempts.
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120 of these men were
recaptured after breaking out,
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but by the end of the war 31 POWs
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had successfully returned home.
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More than any other POW
camp in World War II.
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One exasperated German officer wrote,
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"We kept them in with
rifles and machine guns,
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"we searched them by day and night,
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"and yet they got out."
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Probably the most famous attempt at escape
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was using sleeping bags to build a glider
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in an attic above the castle chapel.
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The idea was to catapult it from the roof
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and across the valley.
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However, their daring idea
was never put to the test
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as the war ended before the
glider had been completed.
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In recent years, Colditz has
undergone much restoration,
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and the castle now has both
a museum and guided tours,
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including some of the escape
tunnels built by the prisoners.
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(gentle music)
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Less well known but just as imposing
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is Augustusburg Castle,
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that's been perched on this
hilltop for over 400 years.
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With its virtually square floor plan
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and four massive tower-like corner houses,
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it was designed as a hunting
lodge and summer residence.
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But from the 17th Century on,
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the castle hardly served
its original purpose
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as a pleasure palace as it passed through
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various hands over the years.
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It was a garrison, court of justice,
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prison, and a military hospital.
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It was even used as an
academy for Nazi leaders.
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After the Second World War,
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Augustusburg was returned
to state administration
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and today the castle enjoys
a more sedate existence
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as a museum complex.
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One of its dungeons
houses a macabre display
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of torture instruments.
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There is also a museum
that boasts the largest
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collection of motorcycles in Europe.
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These are the Ore Mountains,
close to the Czech border.
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As the name suggests,
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this region is rich in mineral deposits.
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Mining for a variety of
metals from tin to copper
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has taken place here for centuries,
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bringing great wealth to the region.
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The abundant silver ore
found in these mountains
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was utilized to mint coins
used throughout Europe
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for almost 400 years.
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The coin was known as a Thaler,
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from which the word dollar is derived.
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At the heart of the region's lucrative
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mining industry was the town of Freiberg,
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which became known as the
silver city of Saxony.
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Freiberg was founded in the 12th Century
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on the site of the first
discover of silver ore.
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And although the town was overshadowed
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by neighboring cities like Leipzig,
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it's importance to the wealth
and development of Saxony
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from the 16th to the 19th
centuries was immense.
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The town grew around Freudenstein Castle.
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It served not only to protect the huge
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quantities of silver from robbers,
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but also to administrate the new mines.
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Today it's a world renowned museum,
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holding one of the largest
mineral collections in the world.
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Freiberg's centuries
old tradition runs deep,
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and every summer a mining
town festival is held
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with a precession by the historic miners
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and iron workers guilds.
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Further north on the
banks of the River Elbe
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is the city of Meissen.
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With a rich history going
back over a thousand years,
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Meissen is the oldest of the Saxon cities
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and is often referred to
as the cradle of Saxony.
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Like its neighbor Freiberg,
Meissen also flourished
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from extensive local mineral deposits.
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But instead of ore it was china clay.
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In the 1700s its porcelain
was almost legendary
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throughout Europe, since
it was the first place
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outside the orient to produce fine china.
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Each item was famously marked with
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a crossed swords insignia.
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The mark is considered to be one of
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the oldest trademarks in existence.
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And perched on a high
rock overlooking the Elbe
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is the 13th Century gothic cathedral,
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though the twin steeples
weren't added until the 1900s.
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It's one of the smallest
cathedrals in Europe.
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The reason for this is that it had to
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squeeze alongside Albrechtsburg Castle.
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The present day castle
was built in the 1500s
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as a luxurious royal residence,
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rather than a military fortress.
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It was the first German castle
built for such a purpose.
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Following the Elbe we arrive
at the capital of Saxony,
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Dresden.
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Once the residence for royals and nobles,
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Dresden celebrated its
800th birthday in 2006,
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a poignant reminder of having survived
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one of the most ferocious
aerial bombing campaigns
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in military history.
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The controversial blanket
bombing by the allies in 1945
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almost completely laid waste
the historic city center,
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and killed over 30,000 civilians,
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though the true figure
will never be known.
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Though some evidence of what happened here
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can still be seen,
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much painstaking work has gone towards
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reconstructing the historic
buildings and monuments,
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some of which had been reduced to rubble,
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like the 18th Century Church of Our Lady.
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It now serves as a
symbol of reconciliation
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between the former warring nations.
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Each month an anglican
service is held in English,
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and in 2009 the church was visited by
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US President Barrack Obama.
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The grand Semperoper Opera House
reopened its doors in 1985,
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40 years after it was
raised to the ground.
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The statue over the entrance features
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the Greek god Dionysus in a
chariot pulled by panthers.
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Next door is the Zwinger,
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a baroque palace originally built by
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the 18th Century ruler Augustus the Strong
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for court festivities and tournaments.
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Today the Zwinger is a museum complex
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housing national treasures
that had been evacuated
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during the bombing of Dresden.
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The center is now largely
restored to its former glory
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and attracts around 10
million tourists a year,
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mostly from Germany.
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Across the Elbe is one monument that did
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survive the devastation, the Golden Rider.
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The gold leaf statue gloriously depicts
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the 18th Century ruler
Augustus the Strong,
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so called because it said he was known
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for snapping horseshoes
with his bare hands
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and tossing foxes with a single finger.
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00:16:57,010 --> 00:16:59,700
But it was his passion for art and culture
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00:16:59,700 --> 00:17:01,760
that was to be his legacy,
259
00:17:01,760 --> 00:17:03,250
and this can be seen in the city's
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00:17:03,250 --> 00:17:05,535
fine baroque architecture.
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00:17:05,535 --> 00:17:09,589
(upbeat orchestral music)
262
00:17:09,589 --> 00:17:13,090
As well as the arts, Augustus
the Strong had a love
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00:17:13,090 --> 00:17:15,362
of recreation and fine living.
264
00:17:15,362 --> 00:17:18,420
The surrounding woodlands
and lakes of Dresden
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00:17:18,420 --> 00:17:20,960
was a favorite hunting area for the ruler,
266
00:17:20,960 --> 00:17:24,253
which in turn demanded a
befitting hunting lodge,
267
00:17:25,775 --> 00:17:27,303
Moritzburg Castle.
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00:17:31,360 --> 00:17:35,024
In 1723 August commissioned
his best architects
269
00:17:35,024 --> 00:17:39,780
to create this grand hunting
retreat and pleasure palace
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00:17:39,780 --> 00:17:42,993
where he would entertain his
court with glittering parties.
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00:17:46,480 --> 00:17:48,650
Set on a symmetrical island,
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00:17:48,650 --> 00:17:50,888
four surrounding ponds were merged
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00:17:50,888 --> 00:17:53,463
to create this magnificent lake.
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00:17:54,370 --> 00:17:57,403
A formal French style
garden was added later.
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00:18:01,954 --> 00:18:06,235
Moritzburg has been home to
a succession of Saxon royals.
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00:18:06,235 --> 00:18:09,840
Its last resident was
Prince Ernst Heinrich,
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00:18:09,840 --> 00:18:12,459
who lived in the castle until 1945
278
00:18:12,459 --> 00:18:15,340
when it was confiscated by the post-war
279
00:18:15,340 --> 00:18:16,833
soviet administration.
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00:18:20,140 --> 00:18:24,330
Today, Moritzburg Castle is
a popular tourist attraction,
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00:18:24,330 --> 00:18:26,780
and its museum houses
the largest collection
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00:18:26,780 --> 00:18:30,593
of deer antlers and
hunting trophies in Europe.
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00:18:35,940 --> 00:18:38,820
On a hill over the Elbe
lies one of the most
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00:18:38,820 --> 00:18:42,330
perfectly preserved
baroque gardens in Saxony,
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00:18:42,330 --> 00:18:44,031
Gross-Sedlitz.
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00:18:44,031 --> 00:18:47,897
(gentle guitar music)
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00:18:47,897 --> 00:18:51,750
It was laid out in the
French style in the 1700s
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00:18:51,750 --> 00:18:55,043
for the nobleman Count
Wackerbart as a pleasure garden.
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00:18:59,864 --> 00:19:02,320
The impressive gardens
caught the attention
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00:19:02,320 --> 00:19:04,320
of the ever present Saxon ruler
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00:19:04,320 --> 00:19:06,710
with an eye for beauty and culture,
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00:19:06,710 --> 00:19:07,883
Augustus the Strong.
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00:19:10,006 --> 00:19:12,480
Fancying the gardens for himself,
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00:19:12,480 --> 00:19:15,010
he acquired the estate and enlisted
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00:19:15,010 --> 00:19:16,810
the best designers in the region
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00:19:16,810 --> 00:19:18,203
to finish off the work.
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00:19:19,290 --> 00:19:22,080
But when Augustus returned
to his native Poland,
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00:19:22,080 --> 00:19:25,000
fun soon ran out, leaving only a third
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00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:27,150
of the gardens complete.
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00:19:27,150 --> 00:19:30,520
Today, the splendor of the
gardens can still be seen.
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00:19:32,214 --> 00:19:33,910
During the summer months there are
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00:19:33,910 --> 00:19:36,310
frequent festivals and dance displays,
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00:19:36,310 --> 00:19:39,363
some dating back almost 300 years.
304
00:19:47,320 --> 00:19:49,160
Following the River Elbe east,
305
00:19:49,160 --> 00:19:52,543
it's now only 25 kilometers
to the Czech border.
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00:19:55,682 --> 00:19:59,338
The Elbe is one of the major
rivers of Central Europe,
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00:19:59,338 --> 00:20:02,050
and its importance for transport and trade
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00:20:02,050 --> 00:20:04,743
over the centuries can
be seen in its banks
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00:20:04,743 --> 00:20:07,180
that have given rise to farmland,
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00:20:07,180 --> 00:20:09,743
riverside palaces and towns.
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00:20:11,600 --> 00:20:14,350
One of the many picturesque
settlements on the river
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00:20:14,350 --> 00:20:16,842
is the market town of Pirna,
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00:20:16,842 --> 00:20:19,570
with its 16th Century gothic church
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00:20:19,570 --> 00:20:21,363
and renaissance city hall.
315
00:20:23,285 --> 00:20:26,460
An older landmark, looking over the river,
316
00:20:26,460 --> 00:20:29,393
is the 15th Century Sonnenstein Castle.
317
00:20:30,260 --> 00:20:35,260
In 1811 it opened as a
progressive psychiatric hospital,
318
00:20:35,780 --> 00:20:38,520
but in a terrible turn this complex was
319
00:20:38,520 --> 00:20:41,010
used by the Nazi party for the murder
320
00:20:41,010 --> 00:20:43,283
of thousands of innocent people.
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00:20:45,006 --> 00:20:48,130
In 1970 the castle was reopened as
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00:20:48,130 --> 00:20:50,903
a rehabilitation center for the disabled.
323
00:20:51,860 --> 00:20:56,023
It houses a memorial site
for the lives that were lost.
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00:21:00,844 --> 00:21:02,620
As well as commercial vessels,
325
00:21:02,620 --> 00:21:04,830
steam paddle boats like this one
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00:21:04,830 --> 00:21:07,283
are a common sight along the Elbe river.
327
00:21:10,130 --> 00:21:12,360
It's one of nine historic craft
328
00:21:12,360 --> 00:21:14,310
that make up the oldest and biggest
329
00:21:14,310 --> 00:21:16,273
paddle steamer fleet in the world.
330
00:21:19,020 --> 00:21:21,939
The sightseeing trips
take visitors upstream
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00:21:21,939 --> 00:21:25,893
towards the spectacular
Elbe sandstone mountains.
332
00:21:28,020 --> 00:21:31,280
It's a dramatic landscape
of forest, gorge,
333
00:21:31,280 --> 00:21:33,690
and bizarrely shaped rock towers,
334
00:21:33,690 --> 00:21:37,043
formed by water erosion
over a million years ago.
335
00:21:39,790 --> 00:21:41,850
The national park has been known as
336
00:21:41,850 --> 00:21:44,664
Saxon Switzerland since the 18th Century,
337
00:21:44,664 --> 00:21:48,100
when two Swiss art students
found the landscape
338
00:21:48,100 --> 00:21:50,283
reminded them of their homeland.
339
00:21:51,710 --> 00:21:53,540
Not only did the name stick,
340
00:21:53,540 --> 00:21:56,780
but it inspired a rush of romantic artists
341
00:21:56,780 --> 00:21:59,310
filled with the inspiration and desire
342
00:21:59,310 --> 00:22:02,433
to explore the sandstone
mountains for themselves.
343
00:22:03,430 --> 00:22:05,410
Popularized by their paintings,
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00:22:05,410 --> 00:22:08,040
Saxon Switzerland became the embodiment
345
00:22:08,040 --> 00:22:10,890
of the famous German love of the outdoors,
346
00:22:10,890 --> 00:22:13,503
and the pursuit of romantic adventure.
347
00:22:14,520 --> 00:22:16,490
The natural wonder of this scenery
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00:22:16,490 --> 00:22:19,133
has been attracting visitors ever since.
349
00:22:20,600 --> 00:22:24,470
Today the national park
offers 1200 kilometers
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00:22:24,470 --> 00:22:26,830
of waymarked paths and trails,
351
00:22:26,830 --> 00:22:28,980
including the painter's trail,
352
00:22:28,980 --> 00:22:31,723
one of the great walking
routes of modern Germany.
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00:22:32,642 --> 00:22:35,840
It follows the footsteps of the romantics,
354
00:22:35,840 --> 00:22:39,403
along the Polenz River
with its impressive gorge.
355
00:22:41,071 --> 00:22:45,173
The tail leads to the chocolate
box town of Hohnstein.
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00:22:46,740 --> 00:22:49,460
This beautifully presented
medieval settlement
357
00:22:49,460 --> 00:22:52,460
is a reminder of the money
that has been invested
358
00:22:52,460 --> 00:22:55,160
in restoring the fabric and infrastructure
359
00:22:55,160 --> 00:22:56,823
of the old East Germany.
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00:22:59,753 --> 00:23:03,478
But the best known and loved
landmark of Sazon Switzerland,
361
00:23:03,478 --> 00:23:05,974
dominating the banks of the Elbe,
362
00:23:05,974 --> 00:23:07,163
is the Bastei.
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00:23:10,540 --> 00:23:13,040
This extraordinary array of rocks
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00:23:13,040 --> 00:23:16,350
has been a tourist attraction
for over 200 years,
365
00:23:16,350 --> 00:23:18,930
and today has the highest
number of visitors
366
00:23:18,930 --> 00:23:21,623
of all the viewing points
in Saxon Switzerland.
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00:23:23,370 --> 00:23:27,960
A dizzying bridge, built
in 1851 from sandstone,
368
00:23:27,960 --> 00:23:32,560
takes awestruck walkers
through the towers and needles.
369
00:23:32,560 --> 00:23:34,740
The bridge was one of the very first
370
00:23:34,740 --> 00:23:38,663
engineering constructions
created solely for leisure.
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00:23:41,490 --> 00:23:43,460
The reward at the end of the bridge
372
00:23:43,460 --> 00:23:45,880
is the breathtaking view from the sight
373
00:23:45,880 --> 00:23:48,173
of a fortress that once stood here.
374
00:23:52,031 --> 00:23:54,781
(dramatic music)
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00:23:55,670 --> 00:23:58,830
In this region of Germany
that's famed for its castles,
376
00:23:58,830 --> 00:24:02,373
it's fitting that our
last stop is Königstein.
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00:24:05,067 --> 00:24:08,150
It's the biggest mountain fortification,
378
00:24:08,150 --> 00:24:12,160
not only of Saxony, but
of the whole of Europe.
379
00:24:12,160 --> 00:24:15,080
Standing 240 meters above the river,
380
00:24:15,080 --> 00:24:18,090
this mighty castle has never been taken
381
00:24:18,090 --> 00:24:19,943
throughout its 800 years.
382
00:24:23,210 --> 00:24:26,570
Impenetrable 40 meter high walls surround
383
00:24:26,570 --> 00:24:29,940
60 buildings constructed at various times
384
00:24:29,940 --> 00:24:32,150
during its long history.
385
00:24:32,150 --> 00:24:34,965
Late gothic, renaissance, baroque,
386
00:24:34,965 --> 00:24:37,420
and 19th Century neo-gothic architecture
387
00:24:37,420 --> 00:24:40,683
covers a massive area
of almost 10 hectares.
388
00:24:47,550 --> 00:24:51,970
Königstein Castle served various
roles over the centuries,
389
00:24:51,970 --> 00:24:54,810
from an army garrison to a hideout
390
00:24:54,810 --> 00:24:57,033
for the Saxon royals and their treasures.
391
00:24:58,710 --> 00:25:01,030
During both world wars it was used
392
00:25:01,030 --> 00:25:02,500
as a prisoner of war camp.
393
00:25:04,997 --> 00:25:08,080
Königstein, the unconquered fortress,
394
00:25:08,080 --> 00:25:11,271
finally opened its doors in 1955.
395
00:25:11,271 --> 00:25:14,640
And today it's tourists in their thousands
396
00:25:14,640 --> 00:25:17,280
that storm its walls to admire one of
397
00:25:17,280 --> 00:25:20,550
the greatest achievements
in military architecture,
398
00:25:20,550 --> 00:25:24,513
as well as a spectacular
view over Saxon Switzerland.
399
00:25:26,353 --> 00:25:29,633
A perfect place to end this journey.
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00:25:34,967 --> 00:25:37,550
(gentle music)
31824
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