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(wind howling)
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(bright music)
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(contemplative music)
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- [Narrator] Our journey starts
in the heart of North Wales.
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At the historic town of Ruthin.
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From the ruins of the
medieval Denbigh Castle
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we fly along the golden
beaches and resort towns
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of the North Coast.
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At Conwy Bay, we fly southwest
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and pass the largest slate quarry in Wales
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before before heading
towards the Menai Strait,
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a narrow sea channel that
separates the Isle of Anglesey
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from the mainland.
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From Caernarfon Castle,
the ceremonial seat
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of the Prince of Wales we end our journey
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with a spectacular flight
through the mountains and valleys
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of Snowdonia.
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Finishing at the highest
peak in Wales, Mount Snowdon.
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Today, the northern region of Wales
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is the least inhabited
part of the country.
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(birds calling)
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But behind this peaceful
and tranquil landscape
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lies a long and often violent history.
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Because it was these mountains and valleys
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that were once the last line of defense
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for independent Wales
as it defended itself
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against the might of the English Army.
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And to this day, North
Wales remains a center
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of the Welsh language and
a symbol for Welsh national
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and cultural identity.
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Throughout North Wales
are constant reminders
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of the war with neighboring
England over 700 years ago.
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Like the ruins of Ruthin Castle,
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built on the orders of
the English King, Edward I
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to quell any local uprisings.
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Among the grim remains
are the whipping pit
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and drowning pool.
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Much later in the 1800s,
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the ruins were incorporated
into this large mock-castle,
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now a luxury hotel.
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It overlooks the medieval
market town of Ruthin
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and the picturesque hills of Clwyd Valley.
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(pensive music)
In North Wales,
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castle ruins are in abundance.
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These are the ruins of the
once-mighty Denbigh Castle.
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When Edward I, also know
as The Warrior King,
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conquered these lands in the 1200s,
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he set about creating a
whole array of castles
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to encircle and subdue the Welsh
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as well as protect English settlers.
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But these measures weren't sufficient
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to suppress numerous
rebel attacks on Denbigh.
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The most ferocious was the revolt of 1400
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when the town was ravaged and burnt down.
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To the north and set
among lush rolling hills
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is the city of St. Asaph.
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(verbose choral music)
♪ Ah ♪
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- [Narrator] Which claims
to have the smallest
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ancient cathedral in Britain.
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Just 55 meters long and 20 meters wide.
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Despite its size, this
13th century cathedral
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plays one of the most important roles
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in the history of Wales.
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It's home of the 1558 Welsh
translation of the "Bible"
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which helped standardize the language.
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♪ Ah ♪
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- [Narrator] Today, around one in five
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of Wales three million
population speaks Welsh.
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(contemplative music)
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It's not far to the coast Point of Ayr,
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the very northern tip of Wales.
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Point of Ayr is also the name
given to the lighthouse here
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which is the oldest lighthouse in Wales.
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Erected in 1776, and inactive since 1844,
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it stands on Talacre Beach
as a great historic landmark.
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Its remote and windswept setting
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has lent itself to stories of
a ghostly lighthouse keeper
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who watches from the lantern room.
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(gull calling)
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Locals say the ghost is of a
former keeper named Raymond
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who died of a fever and a broken heart.
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(waves lapping)
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(gentle music)
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East along the coast is the
seaside resort of Prestatyn.
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It became a popular holiday
destination in the 1900s
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with the arrival of the railways.
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Visiting for a bathe in the clean waters
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was considered a very healthy activity
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by city-dwelling Victorians.
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Today with its extensive caravan parks,
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Prestatyn remains a resort town.
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But the decline of British holiday-makers
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means the town has had to diversify
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as a regional shopping destination.
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Downturn in tourism
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is a story that's echoed
across other resort towns
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along this coast.
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Like its much larger neighbor, Rhyl.
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Rhyl had long been popular
with people all over Wales
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and Northwest England.
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But the 1970s saw cheap jet-travel
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and a boom in holidays abroad
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which proved disastrous for the town.
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By the 1990s the area
declined dramatically.
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Leading to job losses as
well as a rise in crime
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and social problems.
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Rhyl's once-famous Funfair
is now mostly demolished
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and awaiting redevelopment.
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And there's even uncertainty
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over the resort's famous
landmark, the Sky Tower,
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with it's elevating and
rotating observation platform.
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More recently, a series
of regeneration projects
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have been attracting investment,
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including funding from the European Union.
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Rhyl lies on the mouth of the Clwyd
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which was a crucial stretch of water
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for the medieval English ruler Edward I.
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Following his victory
over the Welsh in 1277,
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he employed almost a thousand men
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to straighten this five
kilometer stretch of river
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for supply barges to
reach his headquarters
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at Rhuddlan Castle.
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(dramatic music)
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With its massive walls,
towers, and gatehouses,
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it served to intimidate
as well as protect.
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The fortress survived well
against a major Welsh uprising.
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But it was eventually
destroyed some 300 years later
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in the Civil War of 1646
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and was left to decay.
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Since 1947 conservation
work has been carried out
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to preserve this great
architectural heritage.
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(gentle piano music)
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A more intact castle
lies just to the south.
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The 15th century Bodelwyddan Castle,
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despite its name and defensive towers,
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was designed first and
foremost as a grand manor house
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that alluded to wealth,
status, and heritage.
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It was the home of the prominent
Welsh family, the Williams
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for around 200 years
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until they fell on hard
times in the 1850s.
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During the First World War,
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the house was used as
recuperation hospital
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and parts of the grounds were
used to carry out exercises
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for newly recruited soldiers.
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The pits and trenches that were dug to use
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for training the young men
to fight in the Great War
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can still be seen today.
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Bodelwyddan is now owned by Heritage Trust
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which has developed the
building and grounds
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as a museum, gallery,
and visitor attraction.
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(contemplative music)
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Back along the coast is
possibly the most picturesque
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and romantic castle ruin
in the whole of Wales,
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Gwrych Castle.
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This fairytale castle with its 18 towers
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might at first glance
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seem like it's seen centuries of battle.
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But in fact it's the victim
of decades of neglect.
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Gwrych Castle was completed in the 1820s
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at the height of the
Gothic Revival movement
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which brought back
medieval styles and forms.
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Originally a family residence,
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it changed hands several times.
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During World War II the
government used the castle
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to house 200 Jewish refugees.
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For many years it hosted
public and private events
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but gradually it fell into disrepair.
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Largely neglected, it
was extensively looted
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and vandalized as well as damaged by fire
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reducing its former glory to a shell.
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Though it seems quite derelict now,
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Gwrych is actually a listed building.
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But the staggering amount it would cost
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to restore the castle
means that its future
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remains uncertain.
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Flying west, we join the Conwy River,
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famed for its salmon and trout fishing.
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(gentle guitar music)
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And on it's banks
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lies one of the most important
gardens in the world,
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Bodnant.
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Begun in 1875, four successive generations
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of the Aberconway family
created this garden
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from seeds and cuttings
collected from expeditions
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in China, North America,
Europe, and Japan.
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The upper part around the house
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consists of the splendid
Italian-style terraces and lawns
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laid out in the early 1900s.
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The lower part is formed by the valley
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of the River Hiraethlyn and
contains the wild garden.
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In 1949, the Aberconways
persuaded the National Trust
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to accept the gardens
at Bodnant into its care
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though the house remains
with the Aberconway family
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who still live here.
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The River Conwy winds its
way north to the Irish Sea.
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(serene music)
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The mouth of the Conwy as
it discharges into Conwy Bay
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is a real historic focal point.
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Two of Britain's greatest feats
of 19th century engineering
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lie side by side.
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The first ever tubular iron
bridge by Robert Stevenson
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as well as Thomas Telford's
suspension bridge,
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one of the first of its kind.
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And looming over the bridges
is the great testament
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to medieval architecture, Conwy Castle.
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Built to quell the Welsh rebellion,
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it was so impregnable
that the whole fortress
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could be guarded by just 30 men.
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But the walls that still surround the town
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are a reminder that not even this castle
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00:13:08,360 --> 00:13:10,743
was a deterrent against Welsh attacks.
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At the mouth of the Conwy estuary
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is a 200 meter rocky headland
known as the Great Orme.
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Around the middle of the 19th century
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it contained the biggest
copper mine in Europe
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with six kilometers of tunnels.
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At its base is Llandudno whose
history is probably shared
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with the ancient copper mines.
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But today, Llandudno is the largest
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and most popular seaside resort in Wales.
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It was specifically developed
as a holiday destination
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back in the 1850s when
there was a growing demand
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for seaside holidays.
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It was soon dubbed The
Queen of Welsh Resorts.
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As well as a railway
line, an ambitious pier
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was constructed to serve as a port.
227
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However, it was damaged in
one of the worst-ever storms
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in British history and
was never fully rebuilt
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to its original length.
230
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Even so, it still stands as
the longest pier in Wales
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00:14:25,000 --> 00:14:27,700
and its 700 meter promenade remains
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00:14:27,700 --> 00:14:30,533
one of Llandudno's top
leisure attractions.
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00:14:33,250 --> 00:14:34,790
(mysterious music)
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00:14:34,790 --> 00:14:37,890
Further inland are these lush hills
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that have been inhabited
for over 200,000 years.
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Going back to the Neanderthals.
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Human activity over the millennia
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has left wealth of prehistoric remains
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throughout North Wales.
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And one of the finest are these stones
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dating back to the Bronze Age.
242
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Known as Druid Circle,
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00:15:03,200 --> 00:15:06,953
it was once a place for
rituals and human sacrifice.
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Further archeological evidence suggests
245
00:15:13,720 --> 00:15:17,140
that 5000 years ago this area was also
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one of the most important
stone ax manufacturing sites
247
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in Britain.
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Not far, in the mountainous uplands,
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is another stoneworks
from a more recent era.
250
00:15:32,510 --> 00:15:34,962
The Penrhyn Slate Quarry.
251
00:15:34,962 --> 00:15:38,129
(gentle piano music)
252
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It is the largest slate quarry in Britain
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at over one and a half kilometers long
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00:15:44,670 --> 00:15:46,923
and 370 meters deep.
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00:15:50,310 --> 00:15:54,350
Today, it has a workforce of around 200.
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00:15:54,350 --> 00:15:58,960
But in its heyday, it was
worked by nearly 3000 quarrymen.
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By the end of the 19th
century, this was the largest
258
00:16:01,900 --> 00:16:04,823
and most productive slate
quarry in the world.
259
00:16:09,390 --> 00:16:11,350
It was owned from the 18th century
260
00:16:11,350 --> 00:16:13,730
by the English Pennant family
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00:16:13,730 --> 00:16:15,840
and the quarry rapidly developed
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00:16:15,840 --> 00:16:18,760
as the dominant industry in North Wales,
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00:16:18,760 --> 00:16:21,880
typically producing over 100,000 tons
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00:16:21,880 --> 00:16:23,583
of purple slate a year.
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00:16:25,740 --> 00:16:27,840
Around the turn of the 19th century,
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00:16:27,840 --> 00:16:30,850
there was a tremendous
drive to meet demand.
267
00:16:30,850 --> 00:16:34,240
This led to bitter disputes
between the company and workers
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00:16:34,240 --> 00:16:36,893
over better pay and safer conditions.
269
00:16:38,560 --> 00:16:41,410
Several acrimonious strikes took place.
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00:16:41,410 --> 00:16:43,853
The longest lasting three years.
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00:16:48,700 --> 00:16:51,110
The profits from the quarry were vast
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00:16:51,110 --> 00:16:53,560
and the sheer extravagance and lifestyle
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00:16:53,560 --> 00:16:55,660
of the nearby English owners
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00:16:55,660 --> 00:16:58,623
must have gone down poorly
with the Welsh quarrymen.
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00:17:01,470 --> 00:17:03,640
The wealth generated by the slate mining
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00:17:03,640 --> 00:17:07,510
enabled the Pennant family to
build this impressive house,
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00:17:07,510 --> 00:17:08,723
Penrhyn Castle.
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00:17:12,880 --> 00:17:15,530
This grand country residence
was built in the style
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00:17:15,530 --> 00:17:17,330
of a Norman fortress,
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00:17:17,330 --> 00:17:19,680
as was the fashion among
the rich and powerful
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00:17:19,680 --> 00:17:21,520
in the 19th century.
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00:17:21,520 --> 00:17:24,490
It's one of many such
castles built from that time
283
00:17:24,490 --> 00:17:27,103
but Penrhyn is one of the most admired.
284
00:17:31,340 --> 00:17:36,340
In 1951 the castle and its
160 square kilometers of land
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00:17:37,040 --> 00:17:40,813
was handed to the government
in exchange for death taxes.
286
00:17:43,850 --> 00:17:46,510
Today it's cared for by the National Trust
287
00:17:46,510 --> 00:17:47,963
and is open to the public.
288
00:17:51,420 --> 00:17:54,130
From a mock castle built for comfort
289
00:17:54,130 --> 00:17:57,983
to one that was designed for
warfare 600 years earlier.
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00:17:58,890 --> 00:18:01,770
Beaumaris Castle, set
on the Isle of Anglesey
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00:18:01,770 --> 00:18:03,502
looks out over the narrow strait
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00:18:03,502 --> 00:18:05,601
that separates it from the mainland.
293
00:18:05,601 --> 00:18:08,268
(pensive music)
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00:18:10,600 --> 00:18:12,150
Having conquered Wales,
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00:18:12,150 --> 00:18:15,200
the 13th century English king, Edward I
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00:18:15,200 --> 00:18:18,400
planned Beaumaris to be his
most formidable fortress,
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00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:20,353
with no expense spared.
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00:18:23,550 --> 00:18:28,430
Work started in 1295 and
continued for 35 years
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00:18:28,430 --> 00:18:30,570
with over three and a
half thousand workmen
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00:18:30,570 --> 00:18:32,653
employed at the peak of construction.
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00:18:35,730 --> 00:18:38,460
As well as a moat and
numerous arrow slits,
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00:18:38,460 --> 00:18:40,760
the entrances were protected by holes
303
00:18:40,760 --> 00:18:43,313
from which hot oil could
be pored over the enemy.
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00:18:45,470 --> 00:18:48,630
But finances and materials
eventually ran out
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00:18:48,630 --> 00:18:50,340
when King Edward turned his attention
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00:18:50,340 --> 00:18:52,330
to the wars in Scotland
307
00:18:52,330 --> 00:18:54,573
and the castle was never completed.
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00:18:56,240 --> 00:18:59,390
Today, this extraordinary
abandoned building site
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00:18:59,390 --> 00:19:02,010
stands as part of a
World Heritage Collection
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00:19:02,010 --> 00:19:04,653
of military architecture in North Wales.
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00:19:09,260 --> 00:19:12,040
Back on the opposite
shore on the Menai Strait
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00:19:12,040 --> 00:19:15,943
is Bangor, one of only
six cities in Wales.
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00:19:16,960 --> 00:19:20,230
Today it has a population
of around 20,000 people
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00:19:20,230 --> 00:19:23,643
but for centuries it was a
town with only two streets.
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00:19:24,540 --> 00:19:27,800
Bangor remained that way until the 1700s
316
00:19:27,800 --> 00:19:29,810
when it was made part of the main route
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00:19:29,810 --> 00:19:32,633
for postal traffic
between London and Dublin.
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00:19:34,730 --> 00:19:38,120
From then on it grew
from a sleepy market town
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00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:41,133
to an important industrial
and commercial harbor.
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00:19:42,600 --> 00:19:46,320
Bangor also became the
center of higher education
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00:19:46,320 --> 00:19:48,660
when the first university in North Wales
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00:19:48,660 --> 00:19:51,353
opened its doors in 1884.
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00:19:52,700 --> 00:19:57,580
Its main building was completed
in 1911, to much acclaim,
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00:19:57,580 --> 00:20:01,193
and today stands as one of
Bangor's imposing landmarks.
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00:20:03,590 --> 00:20:06,730
The city lies on the
banks of the Menai Strait,
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00:20:06,730 --> 00:20:09,660
a narrow sea channel
separating the mainland
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00:20:09,660 --> 00:20:12,243
with the fertile farmlands
of Anglesey Island.
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00:20:15,200 --> 00:20:18,360
This 25 kilometer stretch of the Irish Sea
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00:20:18,360 --> 00:20:21,533
has played an important role
in the history of Wales.
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00:20:23,270 --> 00:20:26,100
2000 years ago, it was the last defense
331
00:20:26,100 --> 00:20:29,453
of the Ancient Britons
against the Roman Army.
332
00:20:31,780 --> 00:20:33,130
In the 19th century,
333
00:20:33,130 --> 00:20:35,360
at the height of the
Industrial Revolution,
334
00:20:35,360 --> 00:20:37,670
the Menai Strait was the last obstacle
335
00:20:37,670 --> 00:20:41,003
before the sea crossing to
the Irish capital, Dublin.
336
00:20:42,630 --> 00:20:43,720
The need to transport
337
00:20:43,720 --> 00:20:46,200
tremendous quantities
of goods and materials
338
00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:49,750
resulted in extraordinary
feats of engineering,
339
00:20:49,750 --> 00:20:53,283
like Thomas Telford's
revolutionary suspension bridge.
340
00:20:54,410 --> 00:20:57,070
When it was completed in 1826,
341
00:20:57,070 --> 00:20:59,820
it had the longest span
of any suspension bridge
342
00:20:59,820 --> 00:21:00,653
in the world.
343
00:21:05,720 --> 00:21:08,090
And set at the other
end of the Menai Strait
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00:21:08,090 --> 00:21:10,170
is yet another great fortress
345
00:21:10,170 --> 00:21:13,383
that has been standing here
for over seven centuries,
346
00:21:14,300 --> 00:21:15,512
Caernarfon Castle.
347
00:21:15,512 --> 00:21:18,280
(majestic music)
348
00:21:18,280 --> 00:21:22,050
Edward I of England wanted to
create a royal seat of power
349
00:21:22,050 --> 00:21:24,580
that would serve as a
symbol of English dominance
350
00:21:24,580 --> 00:21:25,603
over the Welsh.
351
00:21:28,270 --> 00:21:31,380
Proclaimed the Welsh
capitol, Caernarfon was built
352
00:21:31,380 --> 00:21:34,770
with grand accommodation
intended for future royals
353
00:21:34,770 --> 00:21:37,343
who would control Wales and its income.
354
00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:43,120
One famous story is that King Edward,
355
00:21:43,120 --> 00:21:44,970
in order to appease the Welsh,
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00:21:44,970 --> 00:21:47,640
had promised a prince born in Wales,
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00:21:47,640 --> 00:21:50,390
who did not speak a word of English.
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00:21:50,390 --> 00:21:52,990
Keeping his pledge,
the king produced a son
359
00:21:52,990 --> 00:21:55,970
born within these walls, who being a baby,
360
00:21:55,970 --> 00:21:58,070
couldn't yet speak a word of English,
361
00:21:58,070 --> 00:22:00,383
or any other language for that matter.
362
00:22:04,760 --> 00:22:06,980
Ever since then, it's been a tradition
363
00:22:06,980 --> 00:22:08,920
for the title of Prince of Wales
364
00:22:08,920 --> 00:22:11,653
to be given to the eldest
son of the English monarch.
365
00:22:12,600 --> 00:22:16,683
Coronation has always taken
place here at Caernarfon Castle.
366
00:22:17,910 --> 00:22:20,660
Today the title is held by Prince Charles,
367
00:22:20,660 --> 00:22:24,223
son of Elisabeth II, Queen
of the United Kingdom.
368
00:22:27,810 --> 00:22:31,560
This mighty castle is
dwarfed by the mountain range
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00:22:31,560 --> 00:22:35,603
at the heart of North Wales, Snowdonia.
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00:22:38,360 --> 00:22:41,670
This 2000 square kilometer national park
371
00:22:41,670 --> 00:22:44,690
has been shaped by volcanoes and glaciers
372
00:22:44,690 --> 00:22:46,913
over hundreds of millions of years.
373
00:22:48,860 --> 00:22:50,920
Today this dramatic landscape
374
00:22:50,920 --> 00:22:54,020
is home to many protected
species of plants,
375
00:22:54,020 --> 00:22:57,320
birds, and mammals.
(sheep bleating)
376
00:22:57,320 --> 00:23:00,200
Snowdonia is also one of the wettest parts
377
00:23:00,200 --> 00:23:01,293
of the British Isles.
378
00:23:02,410 --> 00:23:05,900
But this doesn't deter the
six million visitors a year
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00:23:05,900 --> 00:23:09,470
who are drawn to this
spectacular and mystical place.
380
00:23:09,470 --> 00:23:11,887
(vocalizing)
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00:23:13,750 --> 00:23:15,720
The Welsh storytelling tradition
382
00:23:15,720 --> 00:23:18,950
places numerous myths
and legends in Snowdonia,
383
00:23:18,950 --> 00:23:23,210
including the best known,
Arthur, King of all Britons
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00:23:23,210 --> 00:23:26,420
whose final battle is said
to have taken place here,
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00:23:26,420 --> 00:23:29,053
brought down by a hail of arrows.
386
00:23:31,460 --> 00:23:34,370
And some stories claim that Lake Ogwen
387
00:23:34,370 --> 00:23:37,530
is the final resting place of Excalibur,
388
00:23:37,530 --> 00:23:39,193
Arthur's magical sword.
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00:23:44,000 --> 00:23:45,760
The Snowdonia National Park
390
00:23:45,760 --> 00:23:48,160
takes its name from Mount Snowdon.
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00:23:48,160 --> 00:23:50,683
The highest peak in England and Wales.
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00:23:52,900 --> 00:23:55,170
It's a long-extinct volcano.
393
00:23:55,170 --> 00:23:58,170
The summit is well over 1000 meters high
394
00:23:58,170 --> 00:24:00,993
and boasts some of the
best views in Britain.
395
00:24:02,570 --> 00:24:05,520
The peak can be reached
by a number of paths
396
00:24:05,520 --> 00:24:08,315
as well as the Snowdon Mountain Railway.
397
00:24:08,315 --> 00:24:11,580
(engine chuffing)
398
00:24:11,580 --> 00:24:13,630
It carries tourists seven kilometers
399
00:24:13,630 --> 00:24:14,933
up and down the mountain.
400
00:24:18,270 --> 00:24:21,540
The railway dates back to 1896
401
00:24:21,540 --> 00:24:24,680
and these narrow-gauge
steam and diesel locomotives
402
00:24:24,680 --> 00:24:28,220
were the original inspiration
for Reverend W. Awdry's
403
00:24:28,220 --> 00:24:31,840
famous children's stories,
Thomas the Tank Engine
404
00:24:31,840 --> 00:24:32,833
and Friends.
405
00:24:35,580 --> 00:24:39,460
In total, around 350,000 people a year
406
00:24:39,460 --> 00:24:42,963
get to the top of Snowdon
by foot or by rail.
407
00:24:44,390 --> 00:24:46,240
Mount Snowdon has been described
408
00:24:46,240 --> 00:24:48,580
as probably the busiest
mountain in Britain
409
00:24:49,620 --> 00:24:52,413
and one of the most popular
attractions in North Wales.
410
00:24:52,413 --> 00:24:54,830
(vocalizing)
411
00:24:58,800 --> 00:25:01,270
And as the sun sets over Snowdonia
412
00:25:01,270 --> 00:25:03,660
the landscape is bathed in a color
413
00:25:03,660 --> 00:25:07,830
that's reminiscent of the
red dragon that was in legend
414
00:25:07,830 --> 00:25:10,513
trapped in a cave beneath these mountains.
415
00:25:12,300 --> 00:25:15,830
Eventually released by King
Arthur's wizard Merlin,
416
00:25:15,830 --> 00:25:18,170
the creature was to
become the eternal symbol
417
00:25:18,170 --> 00:25:22,963
of the land and its people,
the red dragon of Wales.
418
00:25:26,100 --> 00:25:29,860
It's a magical tale and a perfect place
419
00:25:29,860 --> 00:25:31,193
to end this journey.
420
00:25:34,197 --> 00:25:36,780
(serene music)
421
00:26:07,070 --> 00:26:09,320
(whooshing
33120
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