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(upbeat music)
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(upbeat music)
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(laid-back music)
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- [Narrator] Our journey starts
on the coast of Formentera,
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a tiny Mediterranean island,
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renowned for its peaceful
white, sandy beaches,
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crystal-clear waters, and nude sunbathing.
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A short stretch of water
separates Formentera
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with its larger sister island, Ibiza,
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a destination for millions
of young tourists,
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keen to enjoy its famed nightlife.
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From the second-largest town, San Antonio,
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we follow the spectacular coastline
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to Ibiza's northernmost point,
the lighthouse at Portinax.
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Following a string of holiday resorts,
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our journey ends at the
island's historic capital,
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Ibiza Town.
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(tranquil music)
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This is the world's largest
inland sea, the Mediterranean.
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It's surrounded by three continents,
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Europe, Asia, and Africa.
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Throughout history, emerging
civilizations of these lands,
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from Carthaginians to Romans,
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used these waters as a highway
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for vessels carrying goods and materials.
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And here, to the west of the
Mediterranean Sea, near Spain,
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these numerous islands were
highly valued as trading posts.
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The view from this ferry
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is one that's been witnessed by voyagers
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for thousands of years.
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The myths and legends
surrounding these rocky islands
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are testament to man's
presence throughout the ages.
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One of the best known
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is this mystical 400-meter limestone rock,
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known as Es Vedra.
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Some local traditions
place the Sirens here
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from Greek mythology.
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Their enchanting singing would
lure sailors to their doom.
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(laid-back music)
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But today, it's magic of a different sort
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that entices people to this tiny island,
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white, sandy beaches, and turquoise seas.
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70% of Formentera has
national park status,
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which means that strict
controls on development
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have kept the resorts, like
this one on the west coast,
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small and intimate.
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It's an ideal destination
for holidaymakers
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seeking a tranquil break.
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Formentera is one of a
cluster of Spanish islands
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known as the Balearics.
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Only four are inhabited,
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and Formentera is the
southernmost and smallest.
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It's about the same size
as Manhattan in New York,
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but with far fewer people.
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Around 10,000 permanently live here.
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Limestone cliffs make up much
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of the west coast of the island,
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carved out by thousands of
years of gentle erosion.
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This is the wildest and most
unspoiled part of the island,
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and it's easy to see
why it's been described
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as one of the Mediterranean's
best-kept secrets.
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Though these days, boats will anchor here
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to enjoy the peaceful
seclusion of these cliffs
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and clear shallow waters,
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in the 18th century, North
African pirates ventured here
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to the many caves within the cliffs
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to hide looted treasure and goods.
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These days,
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the caves make for exciting
places to explore by dinghy.
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(laid-back music)
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Formentera is listed as
a World Heritage Site
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for its landscape and biodiversity.
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And whilst tourism is a
constant threat to conservation,
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the island's economy
almost entirely depends
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on the holiday season.
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But with no airport, limits
on the size of resorts,
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and no camping permitted, it
never developed mass tourism,
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like its neighboring islands.
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Ironically, this in itself
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has become a major appeal for visitors,
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drawn to the island's natural beauty,
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where unspoiled beaches
are never far away.
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The island is made up of
two table-like platters,
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that are joined by a
five-kilometer strip of land
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that's only 1 1/2 kilometers wide.
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And running along the entire
southern edge of this strip
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is one of the longest beaches
in Formentera, Playa Migjorn.
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Many of the beaches here
have only basic facilities,
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compared to major
Mediterranean tourist spots.
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But this simplicity and lack of crowds
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has made it popular for nude sunbathing,
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which is permitted on most
of Formentera's beaches.
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The laid-back atmosphere
and lifestyle of Formentera
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is perhaps a throwback
to the 1960s and 70s,
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when it became a popular
stopover for traveling hippies.
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Further along the five-kilometer beach
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is one of the larger resorts,
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though most hotels on the island
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are small and independently-owned.
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In recent years,
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some have been converted to
exclusive boutique hotels,
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attracting, it's rumored,
major Hollywood stars,
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such as Leonardo DiCaprio
and Sienna Miller.
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Crossing the narrow
peninsula to the north coat
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reveals a forest of
pine and juniper trees.
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Junipers have long provided
the indigenous islanders
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with strong and resilient wood
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for their houses, mills, and boats.
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And junipers is still used
for docks and boathouses
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on parts of the island,
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where small-scale fishing
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continues to live on as a tradition,
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like the cove of Es Calo de Sant Agusti,
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which has been a fishing
port for hundreds of years.
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Restaurants overlooking the bay
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serve fish and seafood
from the day's catch.
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Fresh anchovies, sardines, and prawns
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are almost always on the menu.
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In contrast, the north
coast of the peninsula
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is rugged and rocky,
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with occasional white-washed
houses straddled on the edge.
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Building regulations on
the island are strict,
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and there are only around
2,000 registered houses.
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And because real estate is
scarce, property prices are high,
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about $2.2 million for
a four-bedroomed house.
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The coastline gives way
to spectacular cliffs,
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beyond which the island
tapers off to the north.
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These extraordinary narrow
beaches, known as Ses Illetes,
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are popular with day-trippers
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from the neighboring island of Ibiza,
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who arrive by ferry or private yacht.
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(laid-back music)
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Continuing north to the
very end of Formentera,
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a slender sandbar connects the wild,
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uninhibited island of Espalmador.
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Despite its size of only
two square kilometers,
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this privately-owned nature
reserve is a popular spot,
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with its natural harbor
and famed mud baths.
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Perched on a rock named Pig Island,
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a lighthouse looks out to
the southern tip of Ibiza,
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only six kilometers away.
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These shallow, rocky waters,
with powerful currents,
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have seen many a shipwreck
throughout history.
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But from April to October,
this stretch presents
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some of the most ideal sailing conditions
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for both the regular ferries
that cross between the islands,
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as well as leisure crafts.
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And some of the finest
vessels in the world
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can frequently be spotted here,
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like the award-winning
superyacht, Symmetry.
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It was built for luxury world cruising,
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as well as performance.
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And while it's traditional in appearance,
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it's actually made of
state-of-the-art materials.
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This stretch of water
between Formentera and Ibiza
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is known as the Freus,
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and has a special significance,
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because it's home to the oldest
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and the largest living
organism on the planet.
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Beneath these gentle waves
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is an endangered species
of giant sea grass,
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that's only found here
in the Mediterranean Sea.
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It grows best in clear waters,
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and their presence here is an indication
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as to the low levels of pollution.
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(tranquil music)
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Our approach to Ibiza
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is over this vast expanse of low marshland
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known as Ses Salines.
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The island is a mere 40
kilometers in length,
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and has a population of over 130,000.
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Both Catalan and Spanish
are the official languages.
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Although sun, sea, and partying
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has been Ibiza's trade since the 1980s,
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for around 2,000 years,
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it was salt production that
brought wealth to this island.
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Salt had always been much prized
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as a mineral to preserve and season food.
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It was so valuable that it
was even used as currency
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in some cultures.
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Ibiza's vast natural resource
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was first discovered by the Carthaginians
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around the seventh century BC.
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They constructed salt pans
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to harvest the crystallized mineral
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once the seawater had evaporated.
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Though the island changed hands
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many times over the centuries,
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the lucrative salt trade continued.
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Today, the method of salt
production has hardly changed,
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though the salt is now
gathered by machine,
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rather than by hand, yielding
around 60,000 tons a year.
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It's no longer the island's main industry,
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but the salt pans still
play an important role,
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because they're home to
many species of wild birds,
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including flamingos.
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By the middle of the 20th century,
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it was tourism that was set
to dominate Ibiza's economy.
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(laid-back music)
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And nearby is the airport
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that now serves over five
million passengers a year.
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Ibiza's airport was first established
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as a temporary military airstrip
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during the Spanish Civil War,
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and remained open after the
conflict for emergency use.
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It wasn't until 1958
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that work commenced to reopen the airport
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in response to the rapid rise of tourism
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in Spain and its islands.
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By the late 1990s,
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Ibiza's only airport was transporting
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over 3 1/2 million passengers a year,
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and today it handles 95% of all people
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entering or leaving the islands
of Ibiza and Formentera.
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Almost half of today's five
million passengers are British,
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followed by German, Spanish,
Italian, and French.
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Flying towards the west
coast of the island,
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we pass a low-lying mountain range,
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covered in thick woodland.
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For such a warm and sunny climate,
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Ibiza remains remarkably
green throughout the year.
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It's this which inspired
early Greek invaders
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to name Ibiza and neighboring Formentera
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the Islas Pitiusas,
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or Islands of Pine Trees.
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The presence of pine trees that
sway these hills and valleys
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explains why the earth
here is a rich orange.
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Their needles contain
tannin, just like tea,
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and when they fall to the
ground, the tannin leaches out,
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and dyes the earth a vibrant orange.
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For many British tourists,
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the last stop is San Antonio
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on the west coast of the island.
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And with clubs and bars open all night,
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many go simply to party.
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It's now Ibiza's second-largest resort,
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but for 2,000 years,
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San Antonio was a small fishing village.
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It grew in the late 1950s,
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when many hotels and resorts were built
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as part of a mass tourism initiative
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that swept across Spain.
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Leisure craft replaced the fishing boats,
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and as the number of tourists
grew, development spread,
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right round the other
side of San Antonio Bay.
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(upbeat music)
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Since the 1980s,
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young British holidaymakers
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have made up the majority
of summertime visitors,
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attracted to what has been described
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as the clubbing capital of the world.
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San Antonio is home to two
of Ibiza's biggest clubs.
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This is Es Paradis, with its
large pyramid-shaped building.
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One of Ibiza's oldest
clubs, established in 1975,
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it's best known for its water party.
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A fountain in the middle
of the dance floor
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releases 80,000 liters of water,
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00:16:21,640 --> 00:16:24,483
soaking up to 1,600 ravers.
259
00:16:25,870 --> 00:16:29,920
And right beside it is the
town's other major attraction,
260
00:16:29,920 --> 00:16:34,073
Eden, with a capacity for 5,000 clubbers.
261
00:16:34,940 --> 00:16:37,180
Some of the world's biggest DJs,
262
00:16:37,180 --> 00:16:40,953
like Judge Jules and
Krafty Kuts, perform here.
263
00:16:42,420 --> 00:16:45,730
But while San Antonio is
famous for its nightlife,
264
00:16:45,730 --> 00:16:48,820
it's also infamous for the binge drinking,
265
00:16:48,820 --> 00:16:51,220
drug taking, and raucous behavior
266
00:16:51,220 --> 00:16:53,833
among the mainly young
British holidaymakers.
267
00:16:57,780 --> 00:17:00,907
It's a reputation that
started in the 1990s,
268
00:17:00,907 --> 00:17:04,360
and one that the authorities
are trying to address,
269
00:17:04,360 --> 00:17:06,960
though it's a difficult matter to balance.
270
00:17:06,960 --> 00:17:11,060
The income from tourism is
almost $1 billions a year,
271
00:17:11,060 --> 00:17:12,470
which means that the government
272
00:17:12,470 --> 00:17:15,453
is careful to avoid driving tourists away.
273
00:17:22,980 --> 00:17:25,970
Stretching around the bay
is the beautiful scenery,
274
00:17:25,970 --> 00:17:29,233
that's in stark contrast
with the busy modern resorts.
275
00:17:33,500 --> 00:17:35,670
Back in the 1960s and 70s,
276
00:17:35,670 --> 00:17:39,060
it was this natural splendor
and laid-back lifestyle
277
00:17:39,060 --> 00:17:41,083
that made it a favorite with hippies.
278
00:17:42,930 --> 00:17:45,557
A New York art student once wrote,
279
00:17:45,557 --> 00:17:50,167
"Even those who come to Ibiza
for the wrong reason, to work,
280
00:17:50,167 --> 00:17:54,257
"eventually are seduced
by the island's easy life.
281
00:17:54,257 --> 00:17:56,217
"Little chores, like picking up the mail
282
00:17:56,217 --> 00:18:00,387
"from the post office, stretch
into day-long missions."
283
00:18:00,387 --> 00:18:03,220
(laid-back music)
284
00:18:05,640 --> 00:18:09,790
Dubbed peluds, meaning hairies,
by the tolerant locals,
285
00:18:09,790 --> 00:18:12,463
the hippies were to
place Ibiza on the map,
286
00:18:13,320 --> 00:18:15,880
helping it shape its modern identity
287
00:18:15,880 --> 00:18:18,133
as a liberal and hedonistic island.
288
00:18:25,830 --> 00:18:28,000
However, this medieval watchtower,
289
00:18:28,000 --> 00:18:29,440
built on one of the many rocks
290
00:18:29,440 --> 00:18:31,620
around Ibiza's ragged coastline,
291
00:18:31,620 --> 00:18:33,993
is a reminder of less peaceful times.
292
00:18:36,700 --> 00:18:39,310
It served as a lookout post for pirates,
293
00:18:39,310 --> 00:18:42,240
who plagued these shores
from the 16th century
294
00:18:42,240 --> 00:18:44,383
for almost 200 years.
295
00:18:49,100 --> 00:18:51,140
The main purpose of their attacks
296
00:18:51,140 --> 00:18:54,430
was to capture Christian
slaves for the Islamic market
297
00:18:54,430 --> 00:18:56,803
in North Africa and the Middle East.
298
00:19:01,960 --> 00:19:03,110
During storms,
299
00:19:03,110 --> 00:19:06,930
the many coves provided
shelter for pirate ships,
300
00:19:06,930 --> 00:19:10,483
which today serve an altogether
more leisurely purpose.
301
00:19:18,660 --> 00:19:19,990
But further up the coast,
302
00:19:19,990 --> 00:19:22,923
we pass one of the most
remote parts of Ibiza.
303
00:19:24,172 --> 00:19:26,922
(tranquil music)
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00:19:38,490 --> 00:19:41,510
Its natural beauty drew
the Hollywood producers
305
00:19:41,510 --> 00:19:46,003
of the 1958 Rodgers and
Hammerstein musical, South Pacific.
306
00:19:56,567 --> 00:19:58,150
As well as filming in Hawaii,
307
00:19:58,150 --> 00:19:59,840
many of the scenes were filmed
308
00:19:59,840 --> 00:20:01,483
along this dramatic coastline.
309
00:20:17,442 --> 00:20:19,280
At the very northern tip of Ibiza
310
00:20:19,280 --> 00:20:22,520
is one of its most distinctive landmarks,
311
00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:26,223
the lighthouse on the rocky
headland, Punta Moscarter.
312
00:20:27,630 --> 00:20:29,040
At 52 meters,
313
00:20:29,040 --> 00:20:32,450
it's the tallest of a
network of 34 lighthouses
314
00:20:32,450 --> 00:20:34,710
spread all over the islands.
315
00:20:34,710 --> 00:20:37,690
Their presence ensures
safe passage for vessels
316
00:20:37,690 --> 00:20:40,293
navigating these unforgiving waters.
317
00:20:46,210 --> 00:20:49,020
Following the peninsula
around the east coast,
318
00:20:49,020 --> 00:20:52,440
the private island of
Tagomago comes into view,
319
00:20:52,440 --> 00:20:55,053
with it's dizzying sheer rock cliffs.
320
00:20:58,410 --> 00:21:00,470
It's the only private island
321
00:21:00,470 --> 00:21:02,663
in the whole of the Balearic chain.
322
00:21:04,130 --> 00:21:06,670
It was purchased in 2006
323
00:21:06,670 --> 00:21:10,630
by German property tycoon Matthias Kuhn,
324
00:21:10,630 --> 00:21:13,010
whose clients reportedly include
325
00:21:13,010 --> 00:21:15,433
Boris Becker and Michael Douglas.
326
00:21:18,550 --> 00:21:22,210
But it seems his closest
neighbor across the way
327
00:21:22,210 --> 00:21:25,860
might be satisfied with
their exclusive retreat, too,
328
00:21:25,860 --> 00:21:28,670
perched on this breathtaking cliff edge.
329
00:21:44,819 --> 00:21:47,402
(upbeat music)
330
00:21:49,060 --> 00:21:51,670
Further along the coast is Es Canar,
331
00:21:51,670 --> 00:21:54,403
one of the more family-orientated resorts.
332
00:21:56,070 --> 00:21:58,310
As a reminder of the island's roots,
333
00:21:58,310 --> 00:22:00,790
there's a renowned weekly hippie market,
334
00:22:00,790 --> 00:22:04,483
selling handmade crafts,
jewelry, and clothes.
335
00:22:07,180 --> 00:22:09,780
Being quieter than some
of the busier resorts,
336
00:22:09,780 --> 00:22:12,400
clubbers can make the
short trip along the coast
337
00:22:12,400 --> 00:22:16,900
to Santa Eularia, the
third-biggest town in Ibiza,
338
00:22:16,900 --> 00:22:19,423
through which the
island's only river runs.
339
00:22:23,110 --> 00:22:26,513
It also boasts some of
best restaurants in Ibiza.
340
00:22:30,730 --> 00:22:34,970
Here, party goers can enjoy
some of the larger venues.
341
00:22:34,970 --> 00:22:36,900
But if only the biggest will do,
342
00:22:36,900 --> 00:22:41,230
in Ibiza, a megaclub is never far away.
343
00:22:41,230 --> 00:22:44,770
One of the island's star
attractions is Privilege.
344
00:22:44,770 --> 00:22:46,170
The "Guinness Book of Records"
345
00:22:46,170 --> 00:22:49,100
cites the club as the
biggest in the world,
346
00:22:49,100 --> 00:22:52,523
with a capacity of 10,000 people.
347
00:22:55,230 --> 00:22:56,260
And finally,
348
00:22:56,260 --> 00:22:59,680
after an almost complete tour
around the island's coastline,
349
00:22:59,680 --> 00:23:02,610
we arrive at the last
place on this journey,
350
00:23:02,610 --> 00:23:05,833
the island's capital city, Ibiza Town.
351
00:23:09,200 --> 00:23:11,140
Spread around a natural harbor,
352
00:23:11,140 --> 00:23:13,350
it's the largest settlement on the island,
353
00:23:13,350 --> 00:23:15,823
with almost 50,000 inhabitants.
354
00:23:18,310 --> 00:23:21,010
Each summer, tens of thousands of tourists
355
00:23:21,010 --> 00:23:24,743
converge to this place for
its famed clubs and bars.
356
00:23:26,230 --> 00:23:29,210
But unlike San Antonio on
the other side of the island,
357
00:23:29,210 --> 00:23:31,420
it's seen to be more cosmopolitan,
358
00:23:31,420 --> 00:23:33,763
and less raucous than its counterpart.
359
00:23:38,070 --> 00:23:41,520
Much of the city's nightlife
is set around the bay area,
360
00:23:41,520 --> 00:23:44,380
which also has a port connecting Ibiza
361
00:23:44,380 --> 00:23:46,110
with its neighboring islands,
362
00:23:46,110 --> 00:23:47,710
as well as the Spanish mainland.
363
00:23:50,260 --> 00:23:53,803
In fact, there's been a port
here for over 2,000 years.
364
00:23:57,220 --> 00:24:00,770
As an important trading post,
it's been fiercely guarded,
365
00:24:00,770 --> 00:24:03,480
and fought over throughout the centuries,
366
00:24:03,480 --> 00:24:06,150
and has changed hands many times,
367
00:24:06,150 --> 00:24:09,420
from Carthaginians, Romans, and Moors,
368
00:24:09,420 --> 00:24:12,513
up to the Christian conquest
in the 13th century.
369
00:24:14,850 --> 00:24:17,860
The visible reminder of the
importance of this harbor
370
00:24:17,860 --> 00:24:21,490
is the iconic 16th century walled citadel,
371
00:24:21,490 --> 00:24:23,453
perched on top of a rocky headland.
372
00:24:24,920 --> 00:24:28,020
It was built by King Philip II of Spain
373
00:24:28,020 --> 00:24:31,193
to protect the island from
pirates and the Ottomans.
374
00:24:34,990 --> 00:24:37,160
The fortified city was actually built
375
00:24:37,160 --> 00:24:40,910
on the site of a necropolis,
an ancient burial ground,
376
00:24:40,910 --> 00:24:43,223
that's the largest of
its kind in the world.
377
00:24:45,240 --> 00:24:47,480
Built by Carthaginians from North Africa
378
00:24:47,480 --> 00:24:49,540
in the seventh century BC,
379
00:24:49,540 --> 00:24:52,510
there are an estimated 3,000 tombs
380
00:24:52,510 --> 00:24:55,693
that still lie beneath
these streets and buildings.
381
00:24:57,230 --> 00:25:00,870
Today, 340 are on display in the museum,
382
00:25:00,870 --> 00:25:03,173
located in the heart of the old town.
383
00:25:04,630 --> 00:25:06,500
And at it's highest point,
384
00:25:06,500 --> 00:25:08,900
with a breathtaking view over the harbor,
385
00:25:08,900 --> 00:25:12,083
is the 14th century
cathedral of Santa Maria.
386
00:25:13,520 --> 00:25:16,740
With its rich history as one
of the greatest preserved
387
00:25:16,740 --> 00:25:19,690
medieval towns around the Mediterranean,
388
00:25:19,690 --> 00:25:22,880
it's not surprising that in 1999
389
00:25:22,880 --> 00:25:27,533
the Old Quarter was declared
a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
390
00:25:30,420 --> 00:25:32,993
the perfect place to end this journey.
391
00:25:35,355 --> 00:25:38,105
(tranquil music)
392
00:26:08,123 --> 00:26:11,123
(letters whooshing)
31075
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