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(wind whooshing)
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(upbeat music)
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- [Narrator] Our journey starts
over the Isles of Scilly,
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at the very southwest tip of Britain.
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The rugged coastline of Cornwall takes us
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to the historic Falmouth
Bay who's fortresses
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have guarded the harbor
entrance for centuries.
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And nestled in an abandoned clay pit,
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we find an extraordinary
ecological experiment,
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The Eden Project near St. Austell.
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Passing Plymouth Harbor and the biggest
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naval dock yard in Europe,
we reach the Jurassic Coast,
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one of the most important
fossil sites on Earth.
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And we end our journey
over some of the finest
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sailing waters in Europe at Weymouth Bay.
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This lonely lighthouse
stands on the furthest
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west point of mainland Britain.
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Beyond it is the vast Atlantic
Ocean connecting Britain
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with America, 3,500 kilometers away.
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Up until 1992, this lighthouse
was manned by a crew
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who would spend weeks at
a time marooned out here.
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In earlier days, a small boat
would have delivered the crew,
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as well as provisions,
often in heavy seas.
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Today there's a helipad
on top so that engineers
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can get here quicker, and more safely
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to carry out routine maintenance.
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Although these rocks give a
clue as to why a lighthouse
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was necessary, it's presence
has a particular significance.
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Because it's the site of
one of the worst disasters
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in British Maritime history.
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On the 22nd of October
1707, an entire naval fleet
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ran off course in a ferocious storm,
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resulting in the loss of over 2,000 lives.
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As necessary as a lighthouse was,
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building on Bishop Rock proved
to be a tough challenge,
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and it wasn't until 1858
that one was finally erected
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using 2,500 tons of granite.
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Today boat trips bring visitors
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to see this impressive structure
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that's the second tallest
lighthouse in Britain,
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and it's often referred to
as the king of lighthouses.
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Bishop Rock is one over 140 islands
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that make up the Isles of Scilly,
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around 45 kilometers from
the English Mainland.
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It is likely that the isles
were once much larger,
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with many of them joined.
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Rising sea levels
flooded the central plane
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around the 5th century
forming an archipelago.
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Today St. Mary's is the largest
of five inhabited islands,
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who's chief income is from tourism.
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Accessible by air and
ferry, the Isles of Scilly
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draw visitors keen to enjoy
the sunny local climate,
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blue seas, and golden beaches.
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The most picturesque of
the islands is Tresco.
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Despite Britain's reputation
of being cold, wet, and windy,
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the island boasts a sub tropical garden
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full of palm trees and a
greater diversity of plants
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than the southern Mediterranean.
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This is the passenger service
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that flies between the Isles of Scilly
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and the British mainland.
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Flying began in the 1960s
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and is the longest running
helicopter service in the world.
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The journey lasts about 20 minutes
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and it's a great way of
looking out for dolphins.
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The first sighting of England's coastline
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is Lands End in the county of Cornwall.
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This granite crag is the most extreme
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westerly point of Mainland England,
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and a very popular place to visit.
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It's considered to be one of the most
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spectacular coastal strips in Britain,
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with dramatic rock formations
such as the Armed Knight
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and Enys Dodnan, the famous rock arch.
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Just off shore is Longships Lighthouse
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guarding these treacherous rocks
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that have caused shipwrecks for centuries.
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Stories of the 18th Century
tell of local people
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living off the plunder from the cargo's
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that washed ashore from the wrecks.
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They became known as Wreckers.
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They were said to
occasionally stand on cliffs,
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or shore at night, and
shine lanterns out to sea,
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imitating lighthouse signals.
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(dramatic music)
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Unsuspecting ships were
lured onto the rocks
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where waiting teams of
Wreckers would loot them.
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The penalties if caught were severe.
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Transportation for life,
or death by hanging.
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Today the cliffs are a wild
and beautiful place to walk
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and watch the enormous
variety of sea birds.
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Ahead is the fairytale
castle St. Michael's Mount,
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perched on its own island.
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It was originally a 12th century
monastery, then a fortress,
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before finally being adapted
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into a magnificent residence in the 1650s.
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From the air it's a dramatic site.
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However, for the unwary
visitor, the incoming tide
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cuts off the island and can cause
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a few problems getting
back to the mainland.
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A little known fact
about St. Michael's Mount
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is that the tower on top was
used as an early lighthouse
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by using a fire lit in a brazier.
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And in 1588, when an invading
Spanish fleet was sighted,
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the fire was lit in a chain of beacons
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that warned not only the fleet
stationed along the coast,
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but also Queen Elizabeth I in
London, 400 kilometers away.
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And from one form of signaling to another
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that launched mankind into the modern age
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of telecommunications 300 years later.
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This is Poldhu Point, where
a simple stone monument
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marks one of the greatest
events in history.
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It was here, on December the
12th, 1901 that the first ever
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radio message crossed
the Atlantic to Canada
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and was picked up at Signal
Hill, St. Johns, Newfoundland.
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It was a simple three dots for
the letter S in morse code.
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The man who achieved this
incredible breakthrough
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was the brilliant Italian
electrical engineer,
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Guglielmo Marconi.
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He housed his workforce in
this large white building
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overlooking the sea, which
later became a hotel.
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The transmitting station
itself was dismantled in 1933,
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00:08:48,297 --> 00:08:51,973
and all that remains are
these concrete foundations.
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Today a small museum
commemorates the event
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and is run by the Poldhu
Amateur Radio Society.
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And only six kilometers
away, a site was chosen
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for another historic transmission
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that Marconi could only have dreamt of.
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00:09:12,540 --> 00:09:16,840
In the early hours of Wednesday
the 11th of July, 1962,
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the first ever transatlantic
signals were relayed
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via satellite to a dish nicknamed Arthur.
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From there the installation grew to become
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one of the largest communication centers
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in the world, with over 60 dishes.
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The Goonhilly Satellite Earth Station.
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Over the years, Goonhilly
played a key role
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in historic events such as
the Muhammad Ali fights,
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and the 1969 moon landing.
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But sadly, the dishes we see
today are relics of the past,
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because in 2006, all satellite operations
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were shut down in favor
of a newer station.
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It seemed like the end
of an era for Goonhilly,
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but in a surprising turn, it was announced
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that the giant dishes will
be refurbished to be used
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as radio telescopes by astronomers,
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and for communications
with future space missions
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to Mars and beyond.
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Following the coast, we
arrive at one of the deepest
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natural harbors in the world, Falmouth.
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With its sheltered waters,
it's long been popular
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with boaters, and it's
famous for being used
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as the start and finish line
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for around the world sailing records.
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Today the busy port is an important part
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of the towns economy, just
as it's been for centuries.
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And guarding both sides
of the mouth of the harbor
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are reminders of less peaceful times
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when naval attacks by
the neighboring Spanish
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and French were a continual threat.
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These two splendidly
preserve 16th century castles
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where the work of the
Tudor king, Henry VIII,
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who's architects introduced
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revolutionary new designs
to military buildings.
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Like Pendennis Castle on the west side.
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It's circular wall
enabled cannon positions
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all the way around to
protect the harbor entrance,
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as well as fire on ships
that slipped through.
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Across the harbor to the
east is St Mawes Castle,
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built in the 1540s.
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It's a typical example of a Tudor fort,
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and still retains its original
shape of a clover leaf.
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Ironically, neither castle
fired a shot against an invasion
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from the sea, which
they were designed for.
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Instead, the were stormed
and taken from a land attack
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during the Civil War of the 17th century,
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something that Tudor
architects hadn't counted on.
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Fishing was once a major
industry in Cornwall,
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dating back to medieval
times, but it's heyday
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was in the 19th century before
gradually going into decline
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from over fishing in the 20th century.
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However, many villagers along this coast
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continue the prior tradition,
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like Mevagissey, nestled
in a picturesque bay.
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Though much of it's income
is now from tourism,
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over 60 registered fishing vessels
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still work from this port.
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Not far from the coast,
these fertile farmlands
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are interrupted by the
extraordinary site of one industry
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that's still going strong today.
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The St Austell Clay Pits.
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With the exception of
China, Cornwall enjoys
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almost a world monopoly
for the highest quality
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pure white clay that's vital
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in the making of fine
porcelain, as well as paper.
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China clay, or kaolin, is only found
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in a few places around the world.
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And it was first
discovered here in Cornwall
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at the turn of the 19th century.
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Since then, it's continual extraction
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has left this enormous
lunar style landscape.
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High pressure water jets
wash the kaolin deposits away
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in this milky stream.
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It's then separated, processed, and stored
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before being exported around the world.
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Over 200 years of quarrying in the area
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has left giant land scars.
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But one abandoned pit now
contains exciting new life.
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00:13:49,410 --> 00:13:51,570
The Eden Project, one of the most
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00:13:51,570 --> 00:13:55,133
ambitious ecological
experiments ever undertaken.
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These greenhouses, or
biomes as they are called,
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are the largest in the world,
containing between them
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100,000 plants covering
hundreds of species.
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00:14:09,610 --> 00:14:12,320
The biomes house two different climates.
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00:14:12,320 --> 00:14:15,430
One is humid and tropical,
the other recreates
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00:14:15,430 --> 00:14:17,763
the warm temperate regions of the world.
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00:14:20,960 --> 00:14:23,090
These domes are not covered in glass,
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but a special transparent foil
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that's both stronger and lighter.
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00:14:28,220 --> 00:14:30,610
The material is also self cleaning,
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00:14:30,610 --> 00:14:32,763
using the force of natural rainfall.
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00:14:34,940 --> 00:14:38,240
The aim of the Eden Project
is to promote understanding
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00:14:38,240 --> 00:14:40,973
of the relationship
between plants and mankind.
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With more than a million
visitors each year,
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00:14:45,600 --> 00:14:47,693
it seems people are getting the message.
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Back along the coast headed east
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is one of the worlds largest
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00:14:57,040 --> 00:14:59,637
and most spectacular harbors, Plymouth.
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This famous port is best known
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00:15:04,850 --> 00:15:06,743
for two great historic events.
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It's said that in 1588,
the great naval commander,
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00:15:11,160 --> 00:15:13,640
Sir Francis Drake, was
playing a bowling game
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on the very green where he was told
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00:15:15,730 --> 00:15:18,260
about an approaching Spanish fleet.
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Legend has it that he
insisted on finishing the game
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before setting off to lead his
ships to a decisive victory.
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00:15:29,460 --> 00:15:32,920
Also from the harbor in
1620 that the pilgrim father
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00:15:32,920 --> 00:15:35,353
set sail for the new
world in the Mayflower.
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00:15:37,210 --> 00:15:39,980
The 102 men, women, and children on board
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00:15:39,980 --> 00:15:43,270
would've found the first
European settlement in America,
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a place they named Plymouth Colony.
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00:15:49,120 --> 00:15:51,640
This harbor has been
serving the royal navy
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00:15:51,640 --> 00:15:55,410
for over 300 years, and
today Plymouth is home
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00:15:55,410 --> 00:15:58,013
to one of the largest
naval dock yards in Europe.
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00:16:00,730 --> 00:16:03,650
With over 5,000 shipping
movements each year,
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00:16:03,650 --> 00:16:06,410
almost every type of naval
vessel can be spotted here,
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00:16:06,410 --> 00:16:08,723
from submarines to minesweepers.
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00:16:16,700 --> 00:16:19,900
Along this great stretch of
rocky coastline is a place
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00:16:19,900 --> 00:16:21,610
that has a special connection
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with the best selling crime writer
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00:16:23,260 --> 00:16:25,763
of all time, Agatha Christie.
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00:16:26,970 --> 00:16:29,950
This is Burgh Island, home to a wonderful
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Art Deco hotel from the 1930s.
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00:16:34,310 --> 00:16:38,077
It's where Agatha Christie set
two of her detective novels,
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00:16:38,077 --> 00:16:39,820
"And Then There Were None,"
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00:16:39,820 --> 00:16:43,277
and the Hercule Poirot
mystery, "Evil Under The Sun."
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00:16:45,040 --> 00:16:47,410
The island is cut off at high tide,
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00:16:47,410 --> 00:16:50,070
an especially built sea tractor is used
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00:16:50,070 --> 00:16:52,313
to get guests across the causeway.
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00:16:59,230 --> 00:17:02,040
During the first half of 1944,
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00:17:02,040 --> 00:17:04,560
much of this south coast
of England was used
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00:17:04,560 --> 00:17:08,620
to launch the historic D-Day
invasion of occupied France,
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00:17:08,620 --> 00:17:12,043
which eventually led to
the defeat of Nazi Germany.
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00:17:13,900 --> 00:17:16,350
This is Slapton Sands in Devon,
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00:17:16,350 --> 00:17:18,420
a section of coast that's remembered
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00:17:18,420 --> 00:17:20,983
for a tragic event during this period.
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00:17:22,940 --> 00:17:27,080
It was along here that 749 U.S. Serviceman
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00:17:27,080 --> 00:17:29,620
lost their lives during
a training exercise
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00:17:29,620 --> 00:17:31,063
for the D-Day landings.
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00:17:32,610 --> 00:17:34,840
Nine German fast patrol boats
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00:17:34,840 --> 00:17:37,570
broke the ally defensive barrier at night
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00:17:37,570 --> 00:17:40,080
and attacked the unarmed landing craft
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00:17:40,080 --> 00:17:42,480
carrying tanks and men.
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00:17:42,480 --> 00:17:45,270
It was one of the highest
losses of life suffered
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00:17:45,270 --> 00:17:49,543
by the US Army and Navy in
World War II at one time.
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00:17:50,580 --> 00:17:53,680
A Sherman tank, which
was sunk in this action,
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00:17:53,680 --> 00:17:56,490
was recovered from the sea in 1984
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00:17:56,490 --> 00:17:58,810
and now stands close to the beach
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00:17:58,810 --> 00:18:01,513
as a memorial to those who perished.
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00:18:11,960 --> 00:18:14,280
Just beyond this picturesque headland
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00:18:14,280 --> 00:18:17,350
is the Porton resort town of Teignmouth.
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00:18:17,350 --> 00:18:20,280
It also boasts one of the
most dramatic stretches
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00:18:20,280 --> 00:18:22,040
of railway line in England,
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00:18:22,040 --> 00:18:24,463
and is a tourist attraction
in it's own right.
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00:18:25,610 --> 00:18:28,670
This high speed express
is running along a section
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00:18:28,670 --> 00:18:32,660
of railway line originally
built in the mid-19th century
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00:18:32,660 --> 00:18:35,200
by one of the worlds greatest engineers,
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00:18:35,200 --> 00:18:38,060
Isambard Kingdom Brunel.
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00:18:38,060 --> 00:18:40,310
He built this section by carving it
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00:18:40,310 --> 00:18:43,013
into the red sandstone of the Devon coast.
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00:18:44,270 --> 00:18:47,260
At hight tides, the train
ride can be alarming,
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00:18:47,260 --> 00:18:49,830
as the sea often crashes
against the sea wall
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00:18:49,830 --> 00:18:51,463
and sprays the carriages.
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00:18:53,700 --> 00:18:57,523
However, such a thrilling
ride isn't without its hazard.
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00:18:58,438 --> 00:19:02,210
The railway company invests
over $800,000 a year
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00:19:02,210 --> 00:19:05,450
to prevent land slips which
have caused line closures
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00:19:05,450 --> 00:19:07,113
many times in the past.
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00:19:10,730 --> 00:19:13,130
In fact, this whole
section of Dorset Coast
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00:19:13,130 --> 00:19:15,490
is well known for landslides.
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00:19:15,490 --> 00:19:18,870
One of the biggest took place in 1839,
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00:19:18,870 --> 00:19:21,500
when after a prolonged period of rain,
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00:19:21,500 --> 00:19:23,870
eight million tons of rocks,
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00:19:23,870 --> 00:19:26,680
supporting 2/3 of a square kilometer,
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00:19:26,680 --> 00:19:28,923
collapsed into the English Channel.
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00:19:31,990 --> 00:19:35,590
Between the chasm and the
shore, an isolated area of land
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00:19:35,590 --> 00:19:39,093
was formed, which is now
known as Goat Island.
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00:19:42,260 --> 00:19:45,350
Over time, trees and
other plants have grown up
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00:19:45,350 --> 00:19:49,000
in the fall line, creating
a dense self-sown forest
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00:19:49,000 --> 00:19:51,973
that thrives in the shelter
of the higher cliff.
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00:19:57,060 --> 00:20:00,500
An extraordinary consequence
of this crumbling coastline
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00:20:00,500 --> 00:20:03,370
is that the exposed rock give scientists
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00:20:03,370 --> 00:20:05,913
a unique glimpse into the planets past.
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00:20:08,910 --> 00:20:13,550
This 150 kilometer stretch
known as the Jurassic Coast
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00:20:13,550 --> 00:20:17,160
is the only place where 185 million years
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00:20:17,160 --> 00:20:20,520
of the Earth's history are
reveled in the cliff faces,
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00:20:20,520 --> 00:20:22,100
making it one of the most important
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00:20:22,100 --> 00:20:24,693
earth science sites in the world.
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00:20:28,530 --> 00:20:32,180
The Jurassic Coast was
awarded world heritage status
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00:20:32,180 --> 00:20:36,690
in 2001, ranking it alongside
other natural wonders,
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00:20:36,690 --> 00:20:40,083
such as the Great Barrier
Reef, and the Grand Canyon.
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00:20:43,530 --> 00:20:45,800
Layers of rock that make up the cliffs
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00:20:45,800 --> 00:20:49,120
contained countless fossils
belonging to long extinct
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00:20:49,120 --> 00:20:53,420
species of plants and animals
from tropical sea creatures
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00:20:53,420 --> 00:20:56,563
such as ammonites to
swap dwelling dinosaurs.
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00:20:58,980 --> 00:21:01,380
But the person who really
put the Jurassic Coast
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00:21:01,380 --> 00:21:04,810
on the map was a girl named Mary Anning,
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00:21:04,810 --> 00:21:08,623
from what was then, the
major port town, Lyme Regis.
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00:21:11,250 --> 00:21:14,930
In 1811 when she was only 12, Mary Anning
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00:21:14,930 --> 00:21:17,540
discovered the first complete skeleton
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00:21:17,540 --> 00:21:20,343
of an ichthyosaur in the nearby cliffs.
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00:21:21,300 --> 00:21:24,420
She went on to devote her
life to the study of fossils,
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00:21:24,420 --> 00:21:26,570
and contributed to major advances
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00:21:26,570 --> 00:21:28,923
in the early science of Paleontology.
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00:21:32,110 --> 00:21:34,630
Today, just as in Mary Anning's time,
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00:21:34,630 --> 00:21:37,970
these crumbling cliffs
continue to reveal treasures
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00:21:37,970 --> 00:21:40,030
for the thousands of fossil hunters
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00:21:40,030 --> 00:21:41,643
who come and dig each year.
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00:21:48,130 --> 00:21:51,360
Ahead is Golden Cap, the tallest cliff
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00:21:51,360 --> 00:21:54,260
on the south coast of
England, and it's almost
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00:21:54,260 --> 00:21:56,790
200 meters high and gets its name
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00:21:56,790 --> 00:21:58,843
from the sandstone color of the rock.
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00:22:03,720 --> 00:22:07,090
From the top, walkers can
enjoy spectacular views
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00:22:07,090 --> 00:22:08,740
of the Jurassic Coast,
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00:22:08,740 --> 00:22:11,010
including one of the great natural wonders
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00:22:11,010 --> 00:22:13,483
of England, Chesil Beach.
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00:22:17,030 --> 00:22:20,150
It's a 29 kilometer
slim stretch of shingle,
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00:22:20,150 --> 00:22:23,850
formed by strong tides
over thousands of years,
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00:22:23,850 --> 00:22:27,093
which has also created
an inland sea lagoon.
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00:22:29,540 --> 00:22:32,360
For centuries locals have
fished off the beach,
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00:22:32,360 --> 00:22:35,460
and it's said that at night
they were able to tell
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00:22:35,460 --> 00:22:38,150
where they were by the size of pebbles,
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00:22:38,150 --> 00:22:39,900
which grew gradually larger
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00:22:39,900 --> 00:22:42,183
from one end of the beach to the other.
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00:22:48,327 --> 00:22:51,360
At the end of Chesil
Beach is Portland Harbour,
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00:22:51,360 --> 00:22:54,370
one of the largest manmade
harbors in the world,
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00:22:54,370 --> 00:22:56,373
and a haven for water sports.
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00:22:59,320 --> 00:23:02,540
The history of Portland
Harbour goes back centuries,
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00:23:02,540 --> 00:23:05,413
and until recently,
was a major naval base.
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00:23:07,920 --> 00:23:10,990
It took over 50 years to
construct the break water
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00:23:10,990 --> 00:23:13,680
which was completed in 1905
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00:23:13,680 --> 00:23:15,640
using thousands of prison convicts
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00:23:15,640 --> 00:23:17,633
to carry out the grueling work.
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00:23:19,250 --> 00:23:21,860
One function of the
break water was to defend
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00:23:21,860 --> 00:23:24,790
the ships of the worlds greatest navy,
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00:23:24,790 --> 00:23:27,040
and this could be seen
with the defensive forts
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00:23:27,040 --> 00:23:28,093
at the entrances.
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00:23:29,800 --> 00:23:33,240
This imposing structure
took 25 years to build
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00:23:33,240 --> 00:23:36,283
and is clad with iron half a meter thick.
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00:23:39,400 --> 00:23:41,610
And the millions of tons
of stone that was used
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00:23:41,610 --> 00:23:44,170
to build the break
water came from a quarry
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00:23:44,170 --> 00:23:48,253
that couldn't have been
closer, Portland Bill.
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00:23:51,300 --> 00:23:53,480
Prized for its hardness and color,
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00:23:53,480 --> 00:23:56,340
the first ever recorded
use of Portland stone
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00:23:56,340 --> 00:23:58,770
was over 1,000 years ago.
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00:23:58,770 --> 00:24:00,810
Since then it's been used extensively
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00:24:00,810 --> 00:24:03,870
by many illustrious architects for elegant
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00:24:03,870 --> 00:24:06,203
and prestigious buildings world wide.
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00:24:08,300 --> 00:24:10,110
The United Nations building in New York
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00:24:10,110 --> 00:24:12,700
was built using Portland stone,
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00:24:12,700 --> 00:24:14,463
as was Buckingham Palace in London.
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00:24:19,690 --> 00:24:21,670
At the farthest end of Portland Bill
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00:24:21,670 --> 00:24:24,710
are three lighthouses
that have over a period
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00:24:24,710 --> 00:24:28,160
spanning 300 years, served to warn ships
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00:24:28,160 --> 00:24:30,783
of the dangerous waters
around the headland.
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00:24:32,400 --> 00:24:34,380
As well as the undersea rocks,
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00:24:34,380 --> 00:24:37,510
this is where two powerful
sea currents clash,
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00:24:37,510 --> 00:24:39,330
making this stretch a graveyard
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00:24:39,330 --> 00:24:41,943
for ships that fail to reach the harbor.
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00:24:43,790 --> 00:24:46,970
Only one of the lighthouses
is now operational,
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00:24:46,970 --> 00:24:49,070
with the older two towers serving
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00:24:49,070 --> 00:24:51,683
as a bird observatory and a field center.
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00:24:55,750 --> 00:24:58,850
And finally, from some of
the most feared waters,
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00:24:58,850 --> 00:25:00,463
to some of the most desired.
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00:25:02,910 --> 00:25:06,110
On the other side of the
harbor is Weymouth Bay
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00:25:06,110 --> 00:25:07,700
that's renown for having the best
395
00:25:07,700 --> 00:25:09,653
sailing waters in Northern Europe.
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00:25:10,930 --> 00:25:13,290
It's hosted some of the most
prestigious sailing events
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00:25:13,290 --> 00:25:15,920
in the world, from world championships,
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00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:18,253
to the 2012 Olympics.
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00:25:20,340 --> 00:25:23,400
It attracts some of the
finest vessels in the world,
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00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:26,470
like this elegant training ship.
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00:25:26,470 --> 00:25:30,070
It's a great sight, and a magnificent way
402
00:25:30,070 --> 00:25:31,755
to end this journey.
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00:25:31,755 --> 00:25:34,172
(calm music)
32895
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