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(wind blowing)
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(adventurous music)
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(inquisitive music)
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- [Narrator] Our journey
begins at the volcanic island
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of Stromboli, before joining
Sicily's northern coast
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where we head west, past
hilltop villages to Cefalu
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and its ancient cathedral.
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From there we continue
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to the island's capital city, Palermo.
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Inland to the southwest is
one of many ancient Greek
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archaeological sites on
the island at Segesta.
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Back on the coast in the northwest corner
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is the city and harbor town of Trapani
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and nearby a magnificent
hilltop town and castle.
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From there we head south across vineyards
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to the coast, to Triscina
and our final location,
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the ancient Greek ruins at Selinunte.
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(inquisitive music)
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(mysterious music)
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Rising out of the early morning mist
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covering the Tyrrhenian Sea,
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just off the north coast of
Sicily is an island volcano
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which has been continuously
erupting for thousands of years
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and is one of the most active
volcanoes on Earth, Stromboli.
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(mysterious music)
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The island is one of eight
in the Aeolian group,
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forming a volcanic chain
in the shape of an arc.
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Every 15 minutes or so
there is a small eruption,
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throwing up incandescent bombs
of ash and lava fragments
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which shoot about 100 meters into the air.
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For centuries Stromboli's
nickname has been
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the lighthouse of the Mediterranean
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because at night the
red-hot rock and sparks
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can be seen from miles
away across the sea.
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(mysterious music)
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This type of small eruption, or venting,
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which typically only
lasts for a few seconds,
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occurs in other volcanoes around the world
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and the effect has become
known as a Strombolian.
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The island began to be
formed around 160,000 years
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after it emerged from the seabed
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in a blast of molten lava and ash.
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Amazingly, there are
people living on the island
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and most of them can be
found on the east side
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at San Bartolo and San Vincenzo.
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In the early 1900s, the
population was over 1,000 people
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but today it's only a few hundred.
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Major eruptions have been
recorded for well over
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1,000 years and the
most recent was in 1932.
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And more moderate ones in 2002 and 2007.
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Even the regular smaller
eruptions are a spectacular sight.
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(mysterious music)
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(volcano rumbling)
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The eruption may only last seconds
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but the ash plume takes
many minutes to clear.
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To the south of Stromboli
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are the rest of the Aeolian Islands
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which comprise extinct,
dormant and active volcanoes.
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And the nearest island to Stromboli
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in this volcanic chain is Panarea.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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The island is an extinct volcano
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and has been inhabited
for over 3,000 years.
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Today Panarea has become
one of the most fashionable
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and chic destinations in the Mediterranean
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and in the summer swells
the permanent population
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of roughly 300 people to over 1,000.
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In 2000, UNESCO declared
the whole Aeolian chain
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of islands a world heritage site.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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The last major eruption
on the island of Salina
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was about 13,000 years ago
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and since then it has been dormant.
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Lipari is the largest of the
Aeolian volcanic islands,
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the last recorded eruption
was in the fifth century
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when pumice covered
the old Roman villages.
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Today the volcano is considered active
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with a few steaming
fumaroles, or small openings.
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Lipari is also the name of
the main town where most
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of the permanent population
of 12,000 people live.
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The very word volcano
derives from the small island
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to the south of Lipari,
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as it was named Vulcano by the Romans.
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They mined the sulfur which
can be seen around the rim
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of one of its volcanic centers.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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The last major eruption was in 1888
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and lasted for two years.
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Today the local population
of 500 derive their income
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from tourists who come to see the volcano
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and perhaps take a sulfur mud bath.
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Sicily is the largest
island in the Mediterranean
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and an autonomous region of Italy.
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The economy here is driven by agriculture
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with citrus fruits, olives
and wine cultivation,
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as well as an increasing
emphasis on tourism.
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The island has a beautiful coastline,
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great historical buildings,
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as well as some of the most
dramatic hilltop villages.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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There are also some of the
greatest ancient Greek sites
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to be found outside Greece.
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Running along the north coast of Sicily
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is the A20 motorway toll road,
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also known as the
Autostrada Messina-Palermo
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which joins the two cities.
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(adventurous music)
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This dramatic road of tunnels and bridges
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offers some spectacular views
of the coast and mountains.
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The Italians are well
known for some of the most
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breathtaking road building in Europe
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and even a spur road off the
motorway seems to defy gravity.
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As the motorway cuts
through the mountains,
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drivers get some great views
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of some of the many hilltop villages.
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(birds chirping)
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One of the most dramatic is Pollina,
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perched on top of a steep hill.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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On the summit is a castle
dating back to the time
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of the Normals who occupied
Sicily during the 11th century.
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From the castle keep, a watchful eye
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could look out for a potential invader.
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It has been suggested by archeologists
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that the ancient Greek city of Apollonia
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might possibly have been built here.
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Certainly the name
Pollina, which goes back
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well over 1,000 years, gives
some weight to the argument.
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But true or not, the
village is a dramatic place
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and the views are outstanding,
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though it must've been a
tough climb from the coast
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in the days before the motorcar.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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Cefalu is a town founded by the Greeks,
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captured by the Romans and then
occupied by the Byzantines.
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In the ninth century, the
Moors from North Africa
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took the old town and built
a new one on top of the rock.
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This was later enlarged when
the Normans invaded Sicily
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in the 11th century.
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The Normans also built the large cathedral
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in what is called a Romanesque style
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and it stands in front of the main square
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which today caters for the
enormous number of tourists
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who come to Cefalu each year.
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The town is now one of Sicily's
major tourist destinations
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and in the summer, the
population can treble
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to around 40,000 people.
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The coast has been developed with hotels
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and holiday apartments.
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Old Cefalu, with its narrow streets,
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has become an attraction in its own right.
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Dominating this area is the cathedral
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which is a popular place to visit
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but it is also important
for the local population
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as a place of worship and has
been for nearly 1,000 years,
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during which time it has
seen countless weddings
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just like this one where the happy couple
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who have just been married
greet family and friends.
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(murmuring)
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(gentle instrumental music)
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(birds chirping)
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Over the past few thousand years,
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Sicily has been tramped
across by conquering armies.
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As they came and went,
they left behind a rich
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and varied architectural legacy.
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On a hill overlooking the
fishing village of Porticello
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is the ruined town of Solunto
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which was built by the Greek
tyrant Dionysius the Elder
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who sacked the original town
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and built a new one in 397 B.C.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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Just over 100 years later,
Solunto was taken by the Romans
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who later abandoned it around 300 A.D.
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It was only rediscovered
in the 16th century.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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(birds chirping)
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This is Castellaccio, perched
on top of Mount Caputo.
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The 12th-century fortress
was built by the Normans
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and intended to guard Palermo,
the capital of Sicily,
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from an attack through the mountains.
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But its strategic position also gives it
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one of the best views of
the whole of the city.
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(swanky music)
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The city is a mix of oriental
and European architecture
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and it is Sicily's cultural,
economic and touristic capital.
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It is also rich in history,
art, music and food.
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The city proper has its
roots back in the time
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of the Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans
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who all in turn built here.
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(swanky music)
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They were followed by the Arabs
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who built mosques and libraries.
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In 1072, the Christian Norman invaders
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conquered the island and left their mark
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in a number of castles and churches.
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And just over 100 years
later, the Holy Roman Empire
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conquered the island
which in turn gave rise
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to the Kingdom of Sicily and
Naples during the 18th century.
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It was not until 1860 that
Sicily and its capital Palermo
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became part of the new, unified Italy.
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As a result of all this change,
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the city can boast some fine buildings.
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In 1184, the Normans
began building a cathedral
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on the site of a Muslim
mosque, which in turn
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had been built over a very
early Christian church.
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The Archbishop of Palermo
wanted his new cathedral
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to surpass the glory of Monreale
which we will see later,
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and the battle of the
two cathedrals began.
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Palermo's cathedral is a
mixture of periods and styles.
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During the 14th century it
was given a Gothic makeover.
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In the 15th century the
bell tower was constructed
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in a Spanish style and
joined to the cathedral
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by two archaded stone footbridges.
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Later still, at the end of
the 18th century, the style
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changed again and a lot of
the cathedral's exterior
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was given the latest neoclassical look,
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including the addition of the large dome
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as well as the smaller
ones over the side aisles.
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With all its mixture of styles,
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the cathedral is a living history
of the architectural whims
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of Sicily's various
occupiers over the centuries.
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Palermo's opera house is
one of the largest in Europe
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and renowned for its perfect acoustics.
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Building began in 1874
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but was not completed until 1897.
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Equally impressive is the concert hall
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which is home to the
Orchestra Sinfonica Siciliana.
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No Italian city would be complete
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without a football stadium
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and the Stadio Renzo
Barbera, more commonly known
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as the Stadio La Favorita,
is home to Palermo's
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football team which has the grand name
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of the Unione Sportiva Citta di Palermo.
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(crowd cheering)
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The club was formed in 1900
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and in 2006 provided four
players for the Italian Team
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who went on to win the
World Cup in Germany.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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Overlooking the stadium
is Monte Pellegrino,
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a favorite place for local
people to visit at the week end.
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However, a head for heights
is required if driving up
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from the west as the Via Monte Ercta
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is a very dramatic road to negotiate.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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00:15:35,730 --> 00:15:38,950
Once on the top, the views
to the west are stunning
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as you look down on the curved bay
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and resort town of Mondello.
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The town's most striking feature
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is the Art Nouveau pier
jutting out from the beach
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which was built at the
end of the 19th century
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and has recently been restored.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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All along the coast are
small bays and seaside towns.
254
00:16:04,640 --> 00:16:07,950
This is the harbor and
resort of Sferracavallo,
255
00:16:07,950 --> 00:16:10,913
sheltered by mountains on three sides.
256
00:16:10,913 --> 00:16:14,070
(gentle instrumental music)
257
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The much larger Gulf of Carini
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is once again sheltered by mountains.
259
00:16:18,920 --> 00:16:22,280
And on the far side is the
main airport of Sicily,
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00:16:22,280 --> 00:16:25,163
built on a peninsula
alongside a large mountain.
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00:16:26,180 --> 00:16:28,140
It may be a beautiful sight
262
00:16:28,140 --> 00:16:30,520
but the turbulence caused by the mountain
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00:16:30,520 --> 00:16:34,310
often makes landing and
taking off a tricky affair.
264
00:16:34,310 --> 00:16:37,870
And over the years, there
have been a few accidents.
265
00:16:37,870 --> 00:16:40,310
Several years ago,
another runway was added
266
00:16:40,310 --> 00:16:42,100
with an approach from the north
267
00:16:42,100 --> 00:16:44,120
which helps lessen the wind shear,
268
00:16:44,120 --> 00:16:47,590
making landing a more
comfortable experience.
269
00:16:47,590 --> 00:16:50,820
Palermo Airport is one
of the busiest in Italy,
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handling just under five
million passengers a year.
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00:16:56,543 --> 00:17:00,540
It is also known as the
Falcone-Borsellino Airport
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00:17:00,540 --> 00:17:03,930
in memory of the two
leading anti-Mafia judges
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who were murdered in 1992.
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Inland from the Gulf of Carini
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00:17:11,770 --> 00:17:13,370
and set amongst the mountains
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00:17:13,370 --> 00:17:16,335
are two spectacular monasteries.
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00:17:16,335 --> 00:17:19,085
(ethereal music)
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This is the Benedictine Abbey
of San Martino delle Scale.
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00:17:26,460 --> 00:17:31,230
The original monastery was
probably founded around 600 A.D.
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and 200 years later burnt
down by invading Arabs.
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It was not until the 14th
century that it was rebuilt,
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though much of what we see today was built
283
00:17:42,010 --> 00:17:45,853
over the next two centuries
around the Medieval sections.
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00:17:47,320 --> 00:17:50,750
Close by in the next
valley is another monastery
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00:17:50,750 --> 00:17:53,870
and a cathedral which is
one of the greatest examples
286
00:17:53,870 --> 00:17:56,363
of Norman architecture in the world.
287
00:17:57,810 --> 00:18:00,440
This is the cathedral of Monreale
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and a National Monument of Sicily.
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00:18:02,960 --> 00:18:05,130
It is one of the island's most important
290
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historical attractions.
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00:18:08,380 --> 00:18:12,770
Building began in 1174 following
a dream the Norman King,
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William I, had that he
should build a cathedral
293
00:18:16,120 --> 00:18:18,003
to the glory of the Virgin Mary.
294
00:18:19,950 --> 00:18:23,130
The construction only took eight years,
295
00:18:23,130 --> 00:18:26,670
the result is one of the
finest 12th-century cathedrals
296
00:18:26,670 --> 00:18:28,400
in Europe.
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00:18:28,400 --> 00:18:32,200
The outside decoration is a
mixture of Norman, French,
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Byzantine and Arab styles.
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00:18:35,600 --> 00:18:38,130
The apse at the east end is covered
300
00:18:38,130 --> 00:18:41,592
with intricately-carved interlaced arches.
301
00:18:41,592 --> 00:18:44,342
(ethereal music)
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00:18:46,920 --> 00:18:50,120
The cloister at Monreale
dates from the same period
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00:18:50,120 --> 00:18:53,905
and is one of the finest
examples of its type in Italy.
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00:18:53,905 --> 00:18:56,130
(ethereal music)
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00:18:56,130 --> 00:18:59,610
Unfortunately, much of the
rest of the original monastery
306
00:18:59,610 --> 00:19:03,423
and Bishop's palace have been
rebuilt over the centuries.
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00:19:04,550 --> 00:19:07,270
Today thousands of
visitors come to explore
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00:19:07,270 --> 00:19:10,180
this outstanding example of both Christian
309
00:19:10,180 --> 00:19:12,412
and Islamic architecture.
310
00:19:12,412 --> 00:19:15,162
(ethereal music)
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00:19:18,284 --> 00:19:21,201
(triumphant music)
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Sicily's architectural heritage
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00:19:35,280 --> 00:19:37,650
stretches back thousands of years
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00:19:37,650 --> 00:19:40,680
and at Segesta there is
a magnificent example
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00:19:40,680 --> 00:19:42,153
of a Greek-style temple.
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00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:46,320
This Doric temple is
part of the ancient city
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which also includes a magnificent theater.
318
00:19:49,997 --> 00:19:53,400
(triumphant music)
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The temple and theater
may look Greek in style
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but they were actually
built by the Elymians
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00:19:59,210 --> 00:20:02,193
who were the Indigenous people
during the Greek occupation.
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00:20:03,030 --> 00:20:06,250
However, it's clear they
were heavily influenced
323
00:20:06,250 --> 00:20:08,575
by the style of colonists.
324
00:20:08,575 --> 00:20:11,492
(triumphant music)
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00:20:13,720 --> 00:20:18,720
The temple was probably built
between 430 and 420 B.C.
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00:20:19,050 --> 00:20:21,363
and is one of the best
preserved in the world.
327
00:20:22,920 --> 00:20:26,390
It has been built on a
platform with three steps
328
00:20:26,390 --> 00:20:29,890
and a total of 36 plain Doric columns,
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00:20:29,890 --> 00:20:32,793
12 on each side and six across each end.
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00:20:34,170 --> 00:20:36,510
Several pointers suggest that the temple
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was never actually finished.
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The columns have never been fluted
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which they would have normally been
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00:20:42,870 --> 00:20:44,483
in a Doric style temple.
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00:20:45,880 --> 00:20:49,340
And there is no evidence
that there was ever a roof.
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00:20:49,340 --> 00:20:51,510
Another clue can be
found in several places
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00:20:51,510 --> 00:20:54,760
around this remarkable
survival from the ancient world
338
00:20:54,760 --> 00:20:56,720
and they are the lifting bosses
339
00:20:56,720 --> 00:20:58,360
which were used as lifting points
340
00:20:58,360 --> 00:21:00,570
to help raise the stones into place
341
00:21:00,570 --> 00:21:04,068
and would have been removed
when the building was complete.
342
00:21:04,068 --> 00:21:06,750
(triumphant music)
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00:21:06,750 --> 00:21:09,670
One theory for the
temple not being finished
344
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was a possible war with a nearby city
345
00:21:12,340 --> 00:21:14,180
but there is little evidence to prove it
346
00:21:14,180 --> 00:21:17,250
so the building of the
temple remains a mystery
347
00:21:17,250 --> 00:21:22,100
and today makes it all the more
intriguing and fascinating.
348
00:21:22,100 --> 00:21:24,080
What is known is that during the time
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of the Roman occupation the
city was largely abandoned
350
00:21:27,850 --> 00:21:30,600
and later the vandals from northern Europe
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00:21:30,600 --> 00:21:31,733
destroyed most of it.
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00:21:32,594 --> 00:21:35,511
(triumphant music)
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00:21:38,780 --> 00:21:42,430
On top of a nearby hill is
the semi-circular theater,
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00:21:42,430 --> 00:21:44,980
built around the same time as the temple.
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00:21:44,980 --> 00:21:47,590
Its position with views across the valley
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00:21:47,590 --> 00:21:49,570
created a natural backdrop
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00:21:49,570 --> 00:21:51,863
for the popular Greek plays of the day.
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00:21:53,710 --> 00:21:56,170
In fact, much of the
theater was literally hewn
359
00:21:56,170 --> 00:21:58,923
from the side of the hill
like a giant sculpture.
360
00:22:00,370 --> 00:22:02,700
When it was finished,
there was seating room
361
00:22:02,700 --> 00:22:04,423
for 4,000 people.
362
00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:08,930
Today, two and a half
thousand years later,
363
00:22:08,930 --> 00:22:11,793
Greek plays are still performed
during the summer months.
364
00:22:16,320 --> 00:22:18,320
In the northwest corner of Sicily
365
00:22:18,320 --> 00:22:20,870
is the harbor town of Trapani
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00:22:20,870 --> 00:22:24,603
which was also founded by the
Elymians in ancient times.
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00:22:26,650 --> 00:22:28,550
The town suffered a great deal of damage
368
00:22:28,550 --> 00:22:31,270
in World War II when the Allied Forces
369
00:22:31,270 --> 00:22:33,730
bombed this German-occupied stronghold
370
00:22:33,730 --> 00:22:35,943
prior to their successful invasion.
371
00:22:38,890 --> 00:22:41,450
Overlooking Trapani is Mount Erice
372
00:22:41,450 --> 00:22:44,363
and the historic fortified
city of the same name.
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00:22:46,050 --> 00:22:48,540
Over the centuries the
name has been changed
374
00:22:48,540 --> 00:22:51,730
according to which
occupier was in residence.
375
00:22:51,730 --> 00:22:56,400
It was only in 1934 that
the name returned to Erice
376
00:22:56,400 --> 00:22:59,923
which was close to its
original Greek name of Eryx.
377
00:23:01,130 --> 00:23:03,500
In the 12th century the Norman invaders
378
00:23:03,500 --> 00:23:06,530
who named the city Monte San Giuliano
379
00:23:06,530 --> 00:23:09,340
built a castle where
there was once a temple
380
00:23:09,340 --> 00:23:13,623
dedicated to the Venus of
Eryx, the Goddess of Love.
381
00:23:16,660 --> 00:23:20,300
On the south coast of
Sicily is our final location
382
00:23:20,300 --> 00:23:22,580
and one of the largest and most impressive
383
00:23:22,580 --> 00:23:27,580
archeological sites in the
Mediterranean, Selinunte.
384
00:23:27,639 --> 00:23:30,806
(awe-inspiring music)
385
00:23:34,300 --> 00:23:37,140
This ancient site is on
a par with pretty much
386
00:23:37,140 --> 00:23:39,370
anything found in Greece itself
387
00:23:39,370 --> 00:23:42,670
and has lain abandoned
for over 2,000 years
388
00:23:42,670 --> 00:23:45,853
with its temples, acropolis
and street layout.
389
00:23:46,970 --> 00:23:50,070
In about 409 B.C., Selinunte,
390
00:23:50,070 --> 00:23:53,040
with a population of about 20,000 people,
391
00:23:53,040 --> 00:23:54,930
went from being one of
the most progressive
392
00:23:54,930 --> 00:23:57,090
and eminent cities in the Greek Empire
393
00:23:57,090 --> 00:23:59,720
to a large expanse of rubble.
394
00:23:59,720 --> 00:24:02,880
The reason for this collapse
was the Carthaginian Army
395
00:24:02,880 --> 00:24:06,400
from North Africa who
laid siege to the city
396
00:24:06,400 --> 00:24:09,880
and after nine days
forced it to surrender.
397
00:24:09,880 --> 00:24:12,840
Selinunte was then utterly destroyed
398
00:24:12,840 --> 00:24:16,670
in an orgy of torture,
rape, murder and looting
399
00:24:16,670 --> 00:24:18,380
that was considered abhorrent
400
00:24:18,380 --> 00:24:20,883
even by the standards of those times.
401
00:24:22,460 --> 00:24:25,220
The city then lay largely
hidden for centuries
402
00:24:25,220 --> 00:24:27,860
until it was rediscovered
in the 19th century
403
00:24:27,860 --> 00:24:31,163
and excavations began
along with rebuilding.
404
00:24:32,490 --> 00:24:35,510
The main part of the old
city was the acropolis
405
00:24:35,510 --> 00:24:37,453
with a large temple at its center.
406
00:24:38,326 --> 00:24:40,240
(awe-inspiring music)
407
00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:42,880
Even though the city was
pulled down and broken up,
408
00:24:42,880 --> 00:24:45,820
most of the stonework survived
and so it was possible
409
00:24:45,820 --> 00:24:48,743
to slowly reconstruct some of the temples.
410
00:24:51,100 --> 00:24:53,730
Temple E was partially rebuilt
411
00:24:53,730 --> 00:24:55,750
at the beginning of the 20th century
412
00:24:55,750 --> 00:24:59,020
and amazingly, all the
sections of fluted columns
413
00:24:59,020 --> 00:25:00,993
were found scattered nearby.
414
00:25:03,455 --> 00:25:05,960
The temple was dedicated to Hera,
415
00:25:05,960 --> 00:25:08,830
the Goddess of Fertility,
protector of lovers,
416
00:25:08,830 --> 00:25:11,430
marriage and pregnant women.
417
00:25:11,430 --> 00:25:15,400
Visitors are dwarfed by the
sheer size of this temple
418
00:25:15,400 --> 00:25:18,060
and can walk and climb amongst the ruins
419
00:25:18,060 --> 00:25:21,720
soaking up the atmosphere
of this lost civilization
420
00:25:21,720 --> 00:25:23,943
and the various gods they worshiped.
421
00:25:25,420 --> 00:25:28,850
An impressive place to end this journey.
422
00:25:28,850 --> 00:25:32,017
(awe-inspiring music)
423
00:25:34,474 --> 00:25:38,141
(gentle instrumental music)
424
00:26:07,531 --> 00:26:10,364
(dramatic music)
34013
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