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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,427 --> 00:00:03,177 (wind whistling) 2 00:00:07,045 --> 00:00:10,545 (upbeat orchestral music) 3 00:01:09,509 --> 00:01:11,000 (light marimba music) 4 00:01:11,000 --> 00:01:12,080 - [Narrator] Our aerial journey 5 00:01:12,080 --> 00:01:14,220 starts by the Drakensberg Mountains 6 00:01:14,220 --> 00:01:16,320 and across some of the bloodiest battlefields 7 00:01:16,320 --> 00:01:18,920 of the 19th century before heading north 8 00:01:18,920 --> 00:01:20,670 to the Kruger National Park 9 00:01:20,670 --> 00:01:23,630 and on through Blyde Canyon to Polokwane. 10 00:01:23,630 --> 00:01:25,770 From there, it's south to Pretoria, 11 00:01:25,770 --> 00:01:28,370 Johannesburg, and Bloemfontein, 12 00:01:28,370 --> 00:01:30,470 before heading west to Kimberley 13 00:01:30,470 --> 00:01:33,210 and on to the Augrabies Falls. 14 00:01:33,210 --> 00:01:35,240 From there, it's down the west coast 15 00:01:35,240 --> 00:01:36,850 before finishing the journey 16 00:01:36,850 --> 00:01:39,403 in the dramatic Cederberg Mountains. 17 00:01:43,370 --> 00:01:46,950 South Africa is a country of contrasting landscapes. 18 00:01:46,950 --> 00:01:50,170 And here, to the east of the dramatic Drakensberg Mountains, 19 00:01:50,170 --> 00:01:52,980 a vast fertile plain stretches out 20 00:01:52,980 --> 00:01:57,280 where small farms and private game reserves can be found. 21 00:01:57,280 --> 00:01:59,760 But this seemingly peaceful countryside 22 00:01:59,760 --> 00:02:03,183 was the site of violent battles during the 19th century. 23 00:02:05,270 --> 00:02:08,937 (rhythmic percussion music) 24 00:02:11,920 --> 00:02:15,050 The Second Boer War began in 1899 25 00:02:15,050 --> 00:02:17,900 and was between the British and South African Boers 26 00:02:17,900 --> 00:02:21,040 over who ruled their proclaimed republics. 27 00:02:21,040 --> 00:02:23,300 Some of the battles were fiercely fought 28 00:02:23,300 --> 00:02:25,693 and the casualties on both sides were high. 29 00:02:26,570 --> 00:02:29,280 The Battle of Spion Kop was one of them, 30 00:02:29,280 --> 00:02:31,500 and it gets its name from this hill 31 00:02:31,500 --> 00:02:32,993 where the action took place. 32 00:02:34,100 --> 00:02:36,633 It was a major disaster for the British. 33 00:02:37,690 --> 00:02:40,940 Visitors today can walk amongst the moving memorials 34 00:02:40,940 --> 00:02:43,903 and graves of soldiers from both sides. 35 00:02:47,310 --> 00:02:48,393 The Boers held the hill. 36 00:02:48,393 --> 00:02:49,670 And the British, 37 00:02:49,670 --> 00:02:52,180 who thought only a handful of Boers were up there, 38 00:02:52,180 --> 00:02:55,080 attacked at night, took a sentry post, 39 00:02:55,080 --> 00:02:57,630 and thought they had taken the main part of the hill, 40 00:02:57,630 --> 00:03:01,607 only to find in the clearing morning mist that they had not 41 00:03:01,607 --> 00:03:04,463 and that the main Boer army was waiting. 42 00:03:05,340 --> 00:03:06,890 The British were outnumbered 43 00:03:06,890 --> 00:03:08,910 and suffered terrible casualties 44 00:03:08,910 --> 00:03:10,780 before reinforcements arrived, 45 00:03:10,780 --> 00:03:13,193 which enabled the army to retreat off the hill. 46 00:03:16,360 --> 00:03:17,870 From a British defeat 47 00:03:17,870 --> 00:03:22,663 to an outstanding victory against all odds 20 years earlier. 48 00:03:24,470 --> 00:03:28,330 It took place here at Rorke's Drift, where, in 1879, 49 00:03:28,330 --> 00:03:31,390 139 British soldiers held out 50 00:03:31,390 --> 00:03:34,923 against 4,000 Zulu warriors for 12 hours. 51 00:03:36,570 --> 00:03:40,060 11 Victoria Crosses were awarded for gallantry, 52 00:03:40,060 --> 00:03:43,173 the highest number in any single engagement. 53 00:03:45,340 --> 00:03:47,700 The hospital where much of the action took place 54 00:03:47,700 --> 00:03:50,630 still exists, along with the stores 55 00:03:50,630 --> 00:03:52,143 and a memorial and museum. 56 00:03:54,180 --> 00:03:57,120 Close by is a replica of a Zulu krall 57 00:03:57,120 --> 00:03:58,830 in a style which would've been around 58 00:03:58,830 --> 00:04:00,453 at the time of Rorke's Drift. 59 00:04:07,660 --> 00:04:10,000 The Zulu warriors had arrived at Rorke's Drift 60 00:04:10,000 --> 00:04:11,570 from a battle where they had inflicted 61 00:04:11,570 --> 00:04:15,802 the biggest defeat a British colonial army has ever had: 62 00:04:15,802 --> 00:04:16,719 Isandlwana. 63 00:04:20,070 --> 00:04:21,860 Here, in the shadow of the mountain, 64 00:04:21,860 --> 00:04:26,650 roughly 1,300 British and colonial troops lost their lives 65 00:04:26,650 --> 00:04:28,573 out of an army of near 2,000. 66 00:04:29,916 --> 00:04:32,240 The Zulu force poured around the mountain 67 00:04:32,240 --> 00:04:34,760 and, using mainly spears and shields, 68 00:04:34,760 --> 00:04:38,573 outmaneuvered the British with skill and iron discipline. 69 00:04:42,110 --> 00:04:45,030 Today, memorials and small white stone cans 70 00:04:45,030 --> 00:04:48,150 marking mass graves scatter the slope 71 00:04:48,150 --> 00:04:49,763 in remembrance of this battle. 72 00:04:56,910 --> 00:04:59,760 20 miles north and 41 years earlier, 73 00:04:59,760 --> 00:05:03,500 the situation was reversed at the Battle of Blood River, 74 00:05:03,500 --> 00:05:06,860 where, in 1838, the Dutch Voortrekkers 75 00:05:06,860 --> 00:05:09,503 inflicted a crushing defeat on the Zulus. 76 00:05:10,530 --> 00:05:14,280 The river quite literally flowed red. 77 00:05:14,280 --> 00:05:18,670 The Voortrekkers, who numbered 470 men, women, and children, 78 00:05:18,670 --> 00:05:21,580 drew their wagons into a protective enclosure 79 00:05:21,580 --> 00:05:22,793 known as a laager. 80 00:05:24,550 --> 00:05:27,930 They faced well over 10,000 Zulu warriors, 81 00:05:27,930 --> 00:05:29,253 who attacked at dawn. 82 00:05:30,850 --> 00:05:32,350 For two hours, they held out 83 00:05:32,350 --> 00:05:34,963 against four waves of Zulu attacks. 84 00:05:36,840 --> 00:05:39,730 Women and children reloaded the muskets. 85 00:05:39,730 --> 00:05:42,330 3,000 Zulus were killed. 86 00:05:42,330 --> 00:05:46,403 But incredibly, only three trekkers were slightly wounded. 87 00:05:48,700 --> 00:05:50,720 These wagons are cast in bronze 88 00:05:50,720 --> 00:05:53,863 and were erected as a memorial in 1971. 89 00:05:56,470 --> 00:05:58,290 The first monument on the battle site 90 00:05:58,290 --> 00:06:01,373 was this granite ox wagon in 1947. 91 00:06:04,340 --> 00:06:07,520 And in 1998, on the other side of Blood River, 92 00:06:07,520 --> 00:06:09,270 a museum and memorial were built 93 00:06:09,270 --> 00:06:11,243 to commemorate the fallen Zulu. 94 00:06:13,660 --> 00:06:14,900 The shape of the building 95 00:06:14,900 --> 00:06:18,733 represents the horns and chest of the Zulu battle formation. 96 00:06:21,860 --> 00:06:25,470 150 miles to the north is Nelspruit 97 00:06:25,470 --> 00:06:26,953 in the Mpumalanga region. 98 00:06:28,960 --> 00:06:31,200 This is the largest town on the southern end 99 00:06:31,200 --> 00:06:34,060 of the best known game reserve in South Africa, 100 00:06:34,060 --> 00:06:35,972 the Kruger National Park. 101 00:06:35,972 --> 00:06:39,389 (light orchestral music) 102 00:06:41,840 --> 00:06:44,730 Restrictions for flying over the Kruger are strict 103 00:06:44,730 --> 00:06:47,540 and aircraft must be above 2,000 feet 104 00:06:47,540 --> 00:06:50,033 to create the least disturbance to wildlife. 105 00:06:52,490 --> 00:06:56,810 The park is vast at nearly 8,000 square miles, 106 00:06:56,810 --> 00:06:59,393 which is almost the exact size of Israel. 107 00:07:02,160 --> 00:07:04,973 Spread around the park are various campsites. 108 00:07:05,890 --> 00:07:08,000 This one is the Berg-en-Dal 109 00:07:08,000 --> 00:07:11,483 and the only one set in a rugged mountain environment. 110 00:07:13,420 --> 00:07:15,950 From here, it's possible to have conducted walks, 111 00:07:15,950 --> 00:07:19,223 as well as game drives to see the wildlife. 112 00:07:21,790 --> 00:07:24,470 Even from 2,000 feet, it's still possible 113 00:07:24,470 --> 00:07:26,710 to spot a small herd of elephants 114 00:07:26,710 --> 00:07:28,913 as they go about their daily routine. 115 00:07:30,528 --> 00:07:34,195 (rhythmic percussion music) 116 00:07:39,380 --> 00:07:40,740 Throughout South Africa, 117 00:07:40,740 --> 00:07:42,830 there are many private game reserves, 118 00:07:42,830 --> 00:07:45,500 as well as private farms that keep and breed 119 00:07:45,500 --> 00:07:48,593 a number of game animals, including wildebeest. 120 00:07:54,683 --> 00:07:57,900 Wildebeest meat is widely eaten, 121 00:07:57,900 --> 00:08:00,143 as is the meat from water buffalo. 122 00:08:04,657 --> 00:08:07,304 (soft orchestral music) 123 00:08:07,304 --> 00:08:10,700 To the west of the Kruger Park is Blyde River Canyon, 124 00:08:10,700 --> 00:08:12,340 the world's third largest 125 00:08:12,340 --> 00:08:14,950 after the Grand Canyon in the United States 126 00:08:14,950 --> 00:08:17,910 and Fish River Canyon in Namibia. 127 00:08:17,910 --> 00:08:21,071 It is a dramatic and impressive sight. 128 00:08:21,071 --> 00:08:24,154 (soft ambient music) 129 00:08:29,240 --> 00:08:32,300 The canyon is 16 miles long and, on average, 130 00:08:32,300 --> 00:08:34,413 about two-and-a-half-thousand feet deep. 131 00:08:36,660 --> 00:08:39,820 One of the best views is of the Three Rondavels 132 00:08:39,820 --> 00:08:44,270 which overlook the canyon, rondavel being the name 133 00:08:44,270 --> 00:08:46,513 of the roundhouses of the local people. 134 00:08:49,480 --> 00:08:52,323 The furthest point north in our travels is Polokwane, 135 00:08:53,350 --> 00:08:56,163 a mere hundred miles from the border with Zimbabwe. 136 00:08:57,610 --> 00:09:01,010 The name Polokwane means 'place of safety' 137 00:09:01,010 --> 00:09:03,419 and is the capital of the Limpopo region. 138 00:09:03,419 --> 00:09:05,950 (soft piano music) 139 00:09:05,950 --> 00:09:08,100 In former times, it was called Pietersburg. 140 00:09:11,060 --> 00:09:13,470 The town also has a new football stadium, 141 00:09:13,470 --> 00:09:16,710 which was built for the 2010 World Cup 142 00:09:16,710 --> 00:09:20,463 and has a seating capacity of 46,000 spectators. 143 00:09:24,660 --> 00:09:27,907 Our journey now heads west across the north of the country 144 00:09:27,907 --> 00:09:30,590 and the landscape starts to become dry 145 00:09:30,590 --> 00:09:32,253 and almost desert-like. 146 00:09:33,110 --> 00:09:36,820 This vast open flat space is known as veld, 147 00:09:36,820 --> 00:09:38,550 which is the South African equivalent 148 00:09:38,550 --> 00:09:42,670 to outback in Australia, prairie in North America, 149 00:09:42,670 --> 00:09:44,713 and Pampas in South America. 150 00:09:46,430 --> 00:09:48,450 There are only a few villages or towns 151 00:09:48,450 --> 00:09:50,573 scattered in this sparse landscape. 152 00:09:53,940 --> 00:09:56,440 But nothing prepares you for the surprise you get 153 00:09:56,440 --> 00:10:00,110 when suddenly a fantasy city seems to rise up 154 00:10:00,110 --> 00:10:01,753 out of the arid landscape. 155 00:10:02,630 --> 00:10:06,444 This is Sun City, a luxury resort and casino. 156 00:10:06,444 --> 00:10:08,170 (light jazz music) 157 00:10:08,170 --> 00:10:12,493 It opened in 1979 and has been popular ever since. 158 00:10:14,820 --> 00:10:16,223 There are four hotels, 159 00:10:18,550 --> 00:10:19,793 timeshare apartments, 160 00:10:21,760 --> 00:10:23,923 two 18-hole golf courses, 161 00:10:26,190 --> 00:10:27,943 exotic-looking swimming pools, 162 00:10:32,190 --> 00:10:33,723 and lots of entertainment, 163 00:10:34,660 --> 00:10:36,463 including this wave machine. 164 00:10:40,620 --> 00:10:44,320 And guests don't have to go far to see elephants, 165 00:10:44,320 --> 00:10:47,133 as they are close by and ready to ride. 166 00:10:48,760 --> 00:10:52,610 On the outskirts of Pretoria is Hartbeespoort Dam, 167 00:10:52,610 --> 00:10:55,023 with its new estates and golf courses. 168 00:10:56,650 --> 00:10:58,180 The fluorescent-colored lake 169 00:10:58,180 --> 00:11:00,350 suffers from phosphate pollution, 170 00:11:00,350 --> 00:11:03,793 which encourages a very bright green algae to flourish. 171 00:11:04,950 --> 00:11:08,400 Pretoria, which is the executive capital of South Africa, 172 00:11:08,400 --> 00:11:11,940 is an elegant city centered around Church Square, 173 00:11:11,940 --> 00:11:14,933 which is lined with handsome 19th-century buildings. 174 00:11:16,490 --> 00:11:19,253 The city has many fine museums and galleries, 175 00:11:20,540 --> 00:11:21,990 as well as parks and gardens. 176 00:11:25,450 --> 00:11:29,750 And on one side of Burgers Park is Melrose House, 177 00:11:29,750 --> 00:11:32,463 built in the 1880s for an industrialist. 178 00:11:33,750 --> 00:11:36,180 During the Boer War, it became the residence 179 00:11:36,180 --> 00:11:38,623 of the British commander, Lord Kitchener. 180 00:11:41,890 --> 00:11:45,660 Overlooking the city from the east are the Union Buildings, 181 00:11:45,660 --> 00:11:47,710 the seat of the South African government. 182 00:11:49,330 --> 00:11:52,730 They were designed in a grand manner in 1910 183 00:11:52,730 --> 00:11:55,660 to celebrate the new union of South Africa 184 00:11:55,660 --> 00:11:57,603 following the end of the Boer War. 185 00:11:59,561 --> 00:12:00,750 And it was on these steps 186 00:12:00,750 --> 00:12:04,710 that Nelson Mandela was declared president in 1994 187 00:12:04,710 --> 00:12:07,893 and where all previous presidents had been inaugurated. 188 00:12:13,110 --> 00:12:15,010 And from the steps, it's possible to see 189 00:12:15,010 --> 00:12:16,913 the Loftus Versfeld Stadium. 190 00:12:19,010 --> 00:12:22,600 There's been a stadium here since 1906, 191 00:12:22,600 --> 00:12:24,823 making it one of the oldest in the country. 192 00:12:26,180 --> 00:12:29,393 It was upgraded for use as a World Cup venue. 193 00:12:32,650 --> 00:12:36,160 The local historical name for Johannesburg is Gauteng, 194 00:12:36,160 --> 00:12:37,727 meaning 'place of gold.' 195 00:12:41,430 --> 00:12:44,460 And surrounding the city, it's easy to see why, 196 00:12:44,460 --> 00:12:45,610 with all the spoil 197 00:12:45,610 --> 00:12:48,123 from well over a hundred years of gold mining. 198 00:12:52,710 --> 00:12:55,730 Johannesburg, 30 miles south of Pretoria, 199 00:12:55,730 --> 00:12:58,280 is the financial heartland of the country. 200 00:12:58,280 --> 00:13:02,023 Its sleek, modern buildings continue to elevate the skyline. 201 00:13:06,940 --> 00:13:09,680 The Carlton Centre was once the tallest building 202 00:13:09,680 --> 00:13:12,953 on the African continent at 730 feet. 203 00:13:14,330 --> 00:13:15,900 From the top, it's easy to see 204 00:13:15,900 --> 00:13:18,213 the city's two World Cup venues. 205 00:13:19,170 --> 00:13:21,956 The first is Ellis Park Stadium, 206 00:13:21,956 --> 00:13:26,500 and it was here in 1995 that the South African Springboks 207 00:13:26,500 --> 00:13:30,030 won the Rugby World Cup in a thrilling match 208 00:13:30,030 --> 00:13:32,093 against New Zealand in extra time. 209 00:13:33,810 --> 00:13:37,140 To the south of the city is Soccer City Stadium, 210 00:13:37,140 --> 00:13:42,140 built in 1989 and the site of the FIFA 2010 World Cup Final. 211 00:13:44,800 --> 00:13:46,100 The stadium is on the edge 212 00:13:46,100 --> 00:13:49,083 of South Africa's largest township, Soweto. 213 00:13:52,390 --> 00:13:53,510 The township's history 214 00:13:53,510 --> 00:13:57,460 goes back to the gold mining era of the late-19th century, 215 00:13:57,460 --> 00:14:00,700 when Africans seeking work were drawn to the mines 216 00:14:00,700 --> 00:14:03,653 and were accommodated in separate areas around the city. 217 00:14:05,250 --> 00:14:06,990 This segregation continued 218 00:14:06,990 --> 00:14:10,263 and was further enforced during the apartheid regime. 219 00:14:11,860 --> 00:14:13,930 The word Soweto has been abbreviated 220 00:14:13,930 --> 00:14:16,920 from 'south western townships' 221 00:14:16,920 --> 00:14:20,490 and it encompasses all the suburbs in the area. 222 00:14:20,490 --> 00:14:23,380 It's estimated that around 65% 223 00:14:23,380 --> 00:14:26,213 of Johannesburg's population live here. 224 00:14:28,980 --> 00:14:30,740 One of the landmarks of the area 225 00:14:30,740 --> 00:14:34,200 are the two cooling towers from an old power station, 226 00:14:34,200 --> 00:14:35,890 one of which has been decorated 227 00:14:35,890 --> 00:14:38,703 with the largest mural painting in the country. 228 00:14:40,895 --> 00:14:44,500 Soweto came to the world's attention in 1976, 229 00:14:44,500 --> 00:14:45,900 when there were mass protests 230 00:14:45,900 --> 00:14:48,283 about apartheid restrictions in education. 231 00:14:49,490 --> 00:14:54,320 23 people lost their lives when the police opened fire, 232 00:14:54,320 --> 00:14:57,450 and the horror reverberated around the world, 233 00:14:57,450 --> 00:15:00,943 leading to economic sanctions against South Africa. 234 00:15:05,140 --> 00:15:07,770 Today, Soweto is a very different place 235 00:15:07,770 --> 00:15:10,143 and even has guided tours for visitors. 236 00:15:11,680 --> 00:15:13,660 There are still the matchbox houses 237 00:15:13,660 --> 00:15:15,920 built in the apartheid era, 238 00:15:15,920 --> 00:15:19,200 but new, larger, more prosperous-looking dwellings 239 00:15:19,200 --> 00:15:20,233 are being built. 240 00:15:23,410 --> 00:15:27,210 But there are still the old shantytowns for the poorest, 241 00:15:27,210 --> 00:15:30,743 where there are few services and little sanitation. 242 00:15:38,000 --> 00:15:41,200 The judicial capital of South Africa is Bloemfontein, 243 00:15:41,200 --> 00:15:42,843 300 miles to the south. 244 00:15:44,670 --> 00:15:47,240 To get there means crossing 300 miles 245 00:15:47,240 --> 00:15:49,300 of flat, open landscape 246 00:15:49,300 --> 00:15:52,143 where electric storms can build up very quickly. 247 00:15:52,143 --> 00:15:55,060 (soft piano music) 248 00:15:56,880 --> 00:15:59,120 Day almost turns to night 249 00:15:59,120 --> 00:16:01,213 as nature shows its awesome power. 250 00:16:03,050 --> 00:16:06,000 (lightning cracking) 251 00:16:06,000 --> 00:16:08,910 It's certainly not a place for our small aircraft 252 00:16:08,910 --> 00:16:10,013 to get too close to. 253 00:16:13,150 --> 00:16:16,080 Bloemfontein was once the capital of the new republic 254 00:16:16,080 --> 00:16:19,013 the Afrikaners declared in their conflict with Britain. 255 00:16:20,200 --> 00:16:23,520 The city is full of fine 19th-century buildings. 256 00:16:23,520 --> 00:16:25,910 And as the judicial capital of South Africa, 257 00:16:25,910 --> 00:16:28,423 many of them are associated with the law. 258 00:16:31,590 --> 00:16:34,720 To the south of the city is the National Women's Memorial, 259 00:16:34,720 --> 00:16:38,080 commemorating Boer and black African women and children 260 00:16:38,080 --> 00:16:40,850 who died in British concentration camps 261 00:16:40,850 --> 00:16:42,383 during the South African War. 262 00:16:47,630 --> 00:16:50,490 80 miles to the west across open veld 263 00:16:50,490 --> 00:16:52,870 is a city more than any other in the world 264 00:16:52,870 --> 00:16:56,263 associated with diamonds: Kimberley. 265 00:17:00,380 --> 00:17:03,700 In 1869, diamonds were found in the mud wall 266 00:17:03,700 --> 00:17:07,163 of a small house on the eastern edge of the Western Cape. 267 00:17:08,170 --> 00:17:10,880 This discovery led to a diamond rush 268 00:17:10,880 --> 00:17:12,323 and the birth of Kimberley. 269 00:17:14,390 --> 00:17:16,630 Prospectors came in their thousands 270 00:17:16,630 --> 00:17:20,080 and the holes they dug got deeper and deeper 271 00:17:20,080 --> 00:17:22,673 until vast chasms opened up around the town. 272 00:17:26,790 --> 00:17:30,720 The best known is simply called Big Hole. 273 00:17:30,720 --> 00:17:34,550 Here, the first 780 feet was dug by hand. 274 00:17:34,550 --> 00:17:38,630 And today, the depth stands at two-and-a-half-thousand feet, 275 00:17:38,630 --> 00:17:41,303 with another thousand feet hidden from view. 276 00:17:42,740 --> 00:17:47,740 By 1914, some 23 million tons of rock had been excavated, 277 00:17:47,760 --> 00:17:51,693 which yielded over 14 million carats worth of diamonds. 278 00:17:54,830 --> 00:17:59,767 And a flawless carat today will set you back around £15,000, 279 00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:04,410 so a lot of money was dug out of this Big Hole 280 00:18:04,410 --> 00:18:06,233 in just 50 years. 281 00:18:09,210 --> 00:18:10,640 Flying west from Kimberley 282 00:18:10,640 --> 00:18:12,770 and the landscape begins to become drier 283 00:18:12,770 --> 00:18:14,003 and more desert-like. 284 00:18:15,120 --> 00:18:19,263 Vast estates with miles of fencing carve up the landscape. 285 00:18:21,990 --> 00:18:23,880 Long, straight dirt roads 286 00:18:23,880 --> 00:18:27,230 are the only means of getting around to check on fences, 287 00:18:27,230 --> 00:18:28,493 as well as any game. 288 00:18:32,940 --> 00:18:36,583 In this type of landscape, ostriches thrive and run free. 289 00:18:41,100 --> 00:18:43,973 As do these magnificent sable antelope. 290 00:18:47,550 --> 00:18:50,860 Further west, and the landscape begins to turn red, 291 00:18:50,860 --> 00:18:52,903 the soil rich in iron ore. 292 00:18:57,257 --> 00:18:59,900 And in this hot and arid landscape, 293 00:18:59,900 --> 00:19:02,743 a group of gemsbok search for food. 294 00:19:08,410 --> 00:19:09,360 Quite suddenly, 295 00:19:09,360 --> 00:19:12,310 out of this parched and unpopulated landscape, 296 00:19:12,310 --> 00:19:16,740 a wide strip of green appears on either side of a big river. 297 00:19:16,740 --> 00:19:18,820 This is the Orange River, 298 00:19:18,820 --> 00:19:22,853 the longest in South Africa at just over 1,300 miles. 299 00:19:25,380 --> 00:19:27,210 Surprisingly, the river does not flow 300 00:19:27,210 --> 00:19:29,300 through any major city, 301 00:19:29,300 --> 00:19:32,640 but it plays an important part in the economy of the country 302 00:19:32,640 --> 00:19:34,193 by providing irrigation. 303 00:19:35,200 --> 00:19:36,890 And here in the Northern Cape, 304 00:19:36,890 --> 00:19:38,943 the banks are lined with vineyards. 305 00:19:42,220 --> 00:19:44,530 Downstream and to the west of Upington 306 00:19:44,530 --> 00:19:47,900 is one of the most dramatic sites in the country, 307 00:19:47,900 --> 00:19:51,057 and it can be heard before it can be seen. 308 00:19:51,057 --> 00:19:52,230 (water roaring) 309 00:19:52,230 --> 00:19:54,690 These are the Augrabies Falls, 310 00:19:54,690 --> 00:19:57,930 flowing into the largest granite gorge in the world. 311 00:19:57,930 --> 00:20:01,797 The original Khoikhoi people called it 'place of big noise.' 312 00:20:03,200 --> 00:20:04,450 Over thousands of years, 313 00:20:04,450 --> 00:20:08,250 the Orange River has eroded this smooth-sided gorge, 314 00:20:08,250 --> 00:20:12,033 creating a spectacular waterfall of nearly 200 foot. 315 00:20:14,950 --> 00:20:16,180 When the river floods, 316 00:20:16,180 --> 00:20:19,600 four times more water falls here per second 317 00:20:19,600 --> 00:20:20,963 than at the Niagara Falls. 318 00:20:23,670 --> 00:20:25,300 The surrounding granite landscape 319 00:20:25,300 --> 00:20:27,640 seems to come from another planet, 320 00:20:27,640 --> 00:20:31,847 with great folds of rock shaped millions of years ago. 321 00:20:31,847 --> 00:20:35,180 (soft orchestral music) 322 00:20:40,810 --> 00:20:45,723 The area was made into the Augrabies National Park in 1966. 323 00:20:48,180 --> 00:20:51,810 In this arid landscape, an extraordinary tree grows, 324 00:20:51,810 --> 00:20:53,650 which is a species of aloe 325 00:20:53,650 --> 00:20:57,543 and indigenous to the Northern Cape: the quiver tree. 326 00:20:58,570 --> 00:21:01,400 In fact, it's becoming quite a rare sight 327 00:21:01,400 --> 00:21:02,953 due to climactic changes. 328 00:21:06,970 --> 00:21:08,590 The quiver tree gets its name 329 00:21:08,590 --> 00:21:11,040 from the ancient practice of the San people 330 00:21:11,040 --> 00:21:13,220 hollowing out the tubular branches 331 00:21:13,220 --> 00:21:15,143 to form quivers for their arrows. 332 00:21:16,805 --> 00:21:19,722 (soft piano music) 333 00:21:21,150 --> 00:21:23,080 The landscape may look completely deserted 334 00:21:23,080 --> 00:21:26,980 for mile upon mile, but one important aspect of modern life 335 00:21:26,980 --> 00:21:30,003 has been built on it: a national highway. 336 00:21:32,530 --> 00:21:35,620 The N14 highway runs for hundreds of miles 337 00:21:35,620 --> 00:21:38,550 across the Northern Cape and, for much of its length, 338 00:21:38,550 --> 00:21:41,863 is like a very long ruler laid over the landscape. 339 00:21:45,090 --> 00:21:48,380 The highway runs west towards the Atlantic Coast. 340 00:21:48,380 --> 00:21:52,070 And just inland is an extraordinary area of landscape, 341 00:21:52,070 --> 00:21:55,093 and no one is quite sure how it was formed. 342 00:21:56,620 --> 00:21:59,030 These circular smooth-topped mounds 343 00:21:59,030 --> 00:22:02,120 are known locally as fairy circles 344 00:22:02,120 --> 00:22:04,210 and there are literally thousands of them 345 00:22:04,210 --> 00:22:05,963 stretching up into Namibia. 346 00:22:07,920 --> 00:22:09,930 Apparently, nothing will grow on them 347 00:22:09,930 --> 00:22:12,870 and they have remained a mystery for years. 348 00:22:12,870 --> 00:22:14,610 The most plausible explanation 349 00:22:14,610 --> 00:22:18,140 seems to be that some sort of termite created them, 350 00:22:18,140 --> 00:22:19,693 but it has not been proved. 351 00:22:22,430 --> 00:22:26,083 The west coast is a wild, desolate, and windy place. 352 00:22:28,590 --> 00:22:30,490 The Atlantic rolls in 353 00:22:30,490 --> 00:22:34,083 and is much colder than the Indian Ocean on the east coast. 354 00:22:36,950 --> 00:22:39,940 The main industry along the coast is mining, 355 00:22:39,940 --> 00:22:41,693 and diamonds in particular. 356 00:22:42,950 --> 00:22:47,080 Vast mines operate where tons of sand is sifted for diamonds 357 00:22:47,080 --> 00:22:48,633 under tight security. 358 00:22:50,360 --> 00:22:52,800 Old workings scar the landscape, 359 00:22:52,800 --> 00:22:55,790 though today, new rules mean that mining companies 360 00:22:55,790 --> 00:22:58,653 will have to leave the landscape as they found it. 361 00:23:00,870 --> 00:23:03,110 Even the sea yields diamonds, 362 00:23:03,110 --> 00:23:05,520 as gravel is sucked up from gullies 363 00:23:05,520 --> 00:23:09,293 using a long vacuum cleaner from a specially-rigged boat. 364 00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:17,123 To the south, houses and small towns start to appear. 365 00:23:19,520 --> 00:23:22,040 Lambert's Bay is a popular place to visit, 366 00:23:22,040 --> 00:23:24,270 particularly with seafood lovers, 367 00:23:24,270 --> 00:23:27,090 as along the coast open-air fish restaurants 368 00:23:27,090 --> 00:23:29,702 offer a fresh catch every day. 369 00:23:29,702 --> 00:23:33,330 (seagulls squawking) 370 00:23:33,330 --> 00:23:36,250 Inland from Lambert's Bay is Clanwilliam, 371 00:23:36,250 --> 00:23:38,920 where a variety of tea can be found, 372 00:23:38,920 --> 00:23:41,853 and it's the only place in the world where it will grow. 373 00:23:42,790 --> 00:23:44,270 This is the rooibos shrub, 374 00:23:44,270 --> 00:23:46,090 which is better known around the world 375 00:23:46,090 --> 00:23:48,373 as the plant that produces redbush tea. 376 00:23:50,330 --> 00:23:52,950 It has been used by the San people for centuries 377 00:23:52,950 --> 00:23:54,450 as a herbal medicine. 378 00:23:54,450 --> 00:23:57,640 The plant is narrow and needle-like and picked by hand. 379 00:23:57,640 --> 00:24:01,620 It's then cut and dried in the sun on large concrete slabs 380 00:24:01,620 --> 00:24:04,320 before being graded and packed. 381 00:24:04,320 --> 00:24:08,173 The tea is naturally caffeine-free and very low in tannin. 382 00:24:11,110 --> 00:24:13,450 The rooibos shrub is grown in the foothills 383 00:24:13,450 --> 00:24:15,760 of the Cederberg Mountains. 384 00:24:15,760 --> 00:24:19,352 This mountain range is famous for its rock formations. 385 00:24:19,352 --> 00:24:22,950 (rhythmic percussion music) 386 00:24:22,950 --> 00:24:24,390 Over millions of years, 387 00:24:24,390 --> 00:24:27,420 wind and water have carved the Cederbergs 388 00:24:27,420 --> 00:24:29,243 into a magical landscape. 389 00:24:31,490 --> 00:24:35,530 The pinnacles and fissures seem to create fantasy castles 390 00:24:35,530 --> 00:24:37,920 and reddish rocks start to resemble 391 00:24:37,920 --> 00:24:40,113 strange frozen creatures. 392 00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:48,860 The Maltese Cross stands out alone, 393 00:24:48,860 --> 00:24:51,370 as softer stone has eroded away, 394 00:24:51,370 --> 00:24:53,473 leaving this cross-like shape. 395 00:25:01,990 --> 00:25:05,100 Up in the high peaks is the Wolfberg Arch, 396 00:25:05,100 --> 00:25:07,730 where the softer center has eroded away, 397 00:25:07,730 --> 00:25:09,733 leaving this spectacular formation. 398 00:25:17,929 --> 00:25:20,820 And right at the top is Tafelberg Mountain, 399 00:25:20,820 --> 00:25:23,553 which in English is of course Table Mountain. 400 00:25:24,550 --> 00:25:28,570 And it's only a hundred miles to the other Table Mountain 401 00:25:28,570 --> 00:25:31,113 and a perfect place to end this journey. 402 00:25:37,586 --> 00:25:41,253 (reverent orchestral music) 31940

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