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Escape with us on a luxury train
journey
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across the southern part of Africa.
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00:00:07,160 --> 00:00:10,960
Rolling through Namibia,
and on into South Africa itself,
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00:00:10,960 --> 00:00:13,960
we'll be travelling on a wonderful
vintage train
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00:00:13,960 --> 00:00:18,960
where we'll dine like kings
for ten glorious days and nights.
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00:00:18,960 --> 00:00:23,960
It is the most luxurious
train journey ever.
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Along the way, we'll spend time
with the people who live and work
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along this incredible line.
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We'll go hunting with both man...
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..and beast.
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They never learned how to be a wild
cheetah from their mother.
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00:00:49,960 --> 00:00:52,960
We'll drink brandy distilled
in the desert...
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And what you're left over with is
just the heart of the brandy.
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..and taste the best wines Africa
has to offer,
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as we travel under the
star-rich skies.
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We'll visit what was once the
biggest diamond mine in the world...
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With pick and shovel only they dug
by hand up until 240 metres.
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..then travel to the capital
of South Africa,
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Pretoria.
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This is no ordinary railway journey,
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this is one of the most scenic
railway journeys in the world.
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We begin our epic journey
across southern Africa
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in one of the world's most remote
cities, Walvis Bay.
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To the west are great lagoons,
afire with flamingos,
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and beyond them,
the South Atlantic Ocean.
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00:02:04,960 --> 00:02:07,960
To the east is the
great Namib desert
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that gives this country its name,
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Namibia.
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And its into the Namib
will soon be heading.
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But despite our remoteness,
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our train is nothing less than a
palace on wheels.
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Owned and operated by Rovos Rail,
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some of these carriages were built
in the 1920s and offer those lucky
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enough to get a ticket a level
of comfort
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almost unrivalled
anywhere in the world.
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In the two dining cars,
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Jan-Louw is cooling the wine
for the guests' first lunch.
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We normally put it out half an hour
on ice just to get it nice and cold,
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the correct temperature.
Serving temperature.
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A few carriages up in the royal
suite, with its en-suite bathroom,
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Zama is making the last of the beds.
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This room is finished now
and the guests are coming back.
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I need to go to do the next room.
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With the final passengers
on board,
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booked for what will be an
unforgettable ten day journey,
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the signal drops
at 11am precisely
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and our locomotive takes up
the strain.
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HORN BLOWS
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Recently imported from Brazil,
this GE C23 EMP diesel electric loco
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clocks in at a massive 94.5 tonnes.
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Powering this monster is a 12
cylinder GE diesel engine,
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which turns a dynamo supplying
electricity
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to its six traction motors.
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Our driver today is Ben.
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Now, this is the speedometer.
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You can see it's marked
up to 125km per hour,
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but we are just limited
after 60km per hour
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because of our sections.
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00:04:01,960 --> 00:04:07,960
60km, or just 37mph, may seem a
little slow,
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00:04:07,960 --> 00:04:11,160
but with the luxury this train
offers and the great vistas
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we'll be travelling through,
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who would want to go any faster?
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This is a truly epic journey
that will take us over 1,500 miles
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from the coast of Namibia, east
past the Erongo Mountains,
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home of the San people,
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00:04:32,960 --> 00:04:35,800
to Otjiwarongo,
where we'll spend time
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with one of nature's ultimate
hunters,
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the cheetah.
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From there, we'll retrace our route
before swinging southeast
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at Kranzberg Junction,
heading to Windhoek
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00:04:45,960 --> 00:04:48,960
and on across the South African
border
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00:04:48,960 --> 00:04:50,960
to the oasis town of Upington,
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00:04:50,960 --> 00:04:53,960
where we'll drink local brandy as
the sun sets.
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00:04:55,960 --> 00:04:58,960
Rolling across the great
Kalahari Desert,
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we'll arrive in Kimberley,
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where diamonds determined the fate
of southern Africa.
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Finally, our train will roll
into Pretoria.
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00:05:21,960 --> 00:05:26,320
Travelling along a line that was
first laid down over 100 years ago,
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we track the Atlantic Ocean
north
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before turning inland
across the desert.
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At 55 million years old,
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the Namib desert gets its name
from the Nama language,
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meaning
an area where there is nothing.
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But as we head east, leaving
the great dunes behind,
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the land becomes more fertile,
both above and below ground.
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And it's what was below ground
that we have to thank
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for the existence of the line.
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Copper.
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Nicholas is the train's
onboard historian.
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00:06:03,960 --> 00:06:07,960
Well, the fact is that this railway
that was travelling along was built
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by the Otavi mining company
specifically to transport the copper
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from Tsumeb to the coast.
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So actually, in every way,
this railway
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that we're travelling along was a
copper mining railway.
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00:06:25,960 --> 00:06:29,640
Millions of tonnes of copper once
flowed down this line,
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creating one of the key industries
for what would become
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modern day Namibia.
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00:06:38,320 --> 00:06:41,960
But as we roll on past the Erongo
Mountains,
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it's as if we are travelling back
to the dawn of mankind.
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This is the ancient hunting
ground of the San people.
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Despite living close to the railway
and the modern world it brings,
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many Sans still choose
to live as their ancestors did
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thousands of years ago.
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Two of their members,
Dux and Lallae,
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have agreed to take us hunting
using poisoned arrows.
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TRANSLATION:
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Dux has been to school
and speaks English,
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but prefers the way of life of his
people, hunting in the bush,
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just as his ancestors
have for thousands of years.
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Closely following.
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And when you can see the animal,
then we have to see also the wind.
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Which side is the wind?
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00:07:59,960 --> 00:08:01,960
And if the animal is
not able to run,
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00:08:01,960 --> 00:08:04,960
then we can come a little,
a little more close,
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00:08:04,960 --> 00:08:06,960
then this way we can shoot.
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The arrows rarely kill outright,
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the poison taking time to work.
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And when you shoot, and that's
the right part where you shoot,
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it can die immediately.
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But when you shoot any part,
then it can run.
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00:08:30,800 --> 00:08:34,960
Then the next day, when you come,
you will come with the family,
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when you come it is still alive,
then it can run,
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00:08:37,960 --> 00:08:39,320
then you can run after the animal.
124
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Then you can use the spears to
kill the animal.
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UNTRANSLATED
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Although the bush looks empty
to our eyes,
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they soon spot a pair of waterbuck,
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00:09:00,960 --> 00:09:02,960
betrayed by their ears.
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00:09:10,960 --> 00:09:14,960
Now, an age-old ritual between man
and beast plays out.
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This time, Dux's arrow falls short
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and the waterbuck disappear
into the bush.
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00:10:04,960 --> 00:10:06,960
Back on board, as the sun sets,
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the clock rolls forward
several thousand years
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00:10:09,960 --> 00:10:14,960
and we are about to experience
the opulence of the 1920s,
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00:10:14,960 --> 00:10:18,960
courtesy of our train's
Michelin grade chef, Aubrey.
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00:10:24,160 --> 00:10:25,960
He may seem busy at work,
137
00:10:25,960 --> 00:10:27,960
but as far as he's concerned,
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he's one of the guests.
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00:10:30,640 --> 00:10:32,960
It's like a working holiday
because every time
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wherever you travel through Africa
by the coastline or inland,
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you'll see the mountain ranges and
oceans
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00:10:39,960 --> 00:10:43,960
and like, for example, a beautiful
sunset coming up, like, tonight.
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Keen to reflect the land
through which we are travelling,
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00:10:52,800 --> 00:10:56,960
Aubrey has chosen a local delicacy
for tonight's astonishing menu.
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00:10:56,960 --> 00:11:01,160
It's a favourite of Nicholas,
our onboard historian.
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00:11:01,160 --> 00:11:03,960
Tonight we've got ostrich
on the menu.
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00:11:03,960 --> 00:11:05,960
The ostrich is a dry country bird,
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00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:07,960
so it is a native of Namibia,
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00:11:07,960 --> 00:11:11,960
and it has the benefit of
being cholesterol-free.
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It is considered a very
healthy meat.
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00:11:14,960 --> 00:11:18,960
And so we believe in the virtues
of eating ostrich.
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and which is why it is served
usually medium to rare.
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As the chefs work on preparing
dozens of dishes,
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our guests sip the best wines
South Africa has to offer.
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Above, the stars appear in the sky
and our train heads on
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to Otjiwarongo, where it will
pull up at the end
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of what has been a truly
wonderful day.
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00:12:02,960 --> 00:12:07,960
So far, our journey on this
incredible luxury train has taken us
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00:12:07,960 --> 00:12:10,960
from the flamingo-filled lagoons
of Walvis Bay,
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00:12:10,960 --> 00:12:13,960
one of the most remote cities in the
world,
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00:12:13,960 --> 00:12:17,960
across the ancient Namib desert
and into the Erongo mountains.
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Here, we hunted with the San
as the sun dropped low in the sky.
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Back on board, we feasted
on ostrich fillets
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as the stars arched overhead.
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Sometime in the night, we pulled up
into the small town of Otjiwarongo,
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where after disembarking,
we are going to spend the day
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with another of Africa's
great hunters...
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..the legendary cheetah.
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The coming of the railways massively
increased the human population
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in this area,
and what was once the cheetah's land
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has become the territory of farmers.
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Men like Armas Shanka, who
tends a flock of over 180 goats,
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which he loves almost like a family.
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TRANSLATION:
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Unfortunately, cheetahs love goats
almost as much as Armas.
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As a result, farmers often
kill them on sight.
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One person trying to save
the cheetah is Becky Johnston
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of the Cheetah Conservation Fund,
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stepmom Terosa and 28 other
orphaned cheetahs.
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So, these six females here
are permanent residents here at CCF.
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So they came to us under the age
of six months old.
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They never learned how to be a wild
cheetah from their mother.
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She would be teaching them
the correct animals to be hunting.
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00:14:25,640 --> 00:14:27,960
She would be teaching them
correct stalking behaviour.
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She'd be teaching them even things
like how to properly suffocate
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and how to eat your prey.
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And as humans, we make terrible
teachers of all of these skills
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that they need to know.
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It's only something that a mother
cheetah can teach.
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00:14:48,960 --> 00:14:51,960
Being unable to fend for herself
in the wild,
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Rosa and her friends will have to
spend their lives
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in massive enclosures.
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But Becky makes sure they still
have to work for their supper,
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by doing exactly what cheetahs
do best,
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running.
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With the railway and other forms
of transport
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bringing ever more people to the
area,
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00:15:27,960 --> 00:15:30,960
the fund is keen to find a way
of stopping the conflict
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00:15:30,960 --> 00:15:34,960
between the farmers
and these great cats.
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THEY CRY
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It's okay. It's okay.
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00:15:38,640 --> 00:15:41,960
And the key to that is man's oldest
friend,
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the dog,
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or the Anatolian sheepdog, to be
precise,
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00:15:46,480 --> 00:15:49,960
who make the perfect guard dogs
for flocks like Armas'.
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00:15:52,000 --> 00:15:55,960
The good thing about these dogs
is they don't need much training.
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00:15:55,960 --> 00:15:58,480
The main thing they need to do
is bond with the herd.
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Pup, pup, pup, pup, puppies.
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Come, come, come, come.
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Come on, guys. Good puppies.
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00:16:03,800 --> 00:16:05,960
Yeah. Good puppies.
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00:16:05,960 --> 00:16:06,960
Good puppies.
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00:16:06,960 --> 00:16:09,800
Callum is in charge
of the Conservation Fund's
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00:16:09,800 --> 00:16:11,800
Livestock Guard Dog Program,
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00:16:11,800 --> 00:16:14,320
which breeds the dogs to protect the
flocks
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00:16:14,320 --> 00:16:17,320
from predators like the cheetah.
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00:16:17,320 --> 00:16:20,960
And all it takes is one dog,
like this one, Corvette.
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00:16:23,640 --> 00:16:24,800
Come.
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00:16:27,320 --> 00:16:29,960
I know there's a lot of people
that especially maybe
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00:16:29,960 --> 00:16:32,000
they're actually scared of dogs,
especially big dogs like this.
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00:16:32,000 --> 00:16:33,960
And the predators seem
to be the same.
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00:16:33,960 --> 00:16:36,960
Once they see one of these dogs with
the herd, they see the size,
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00:16:36,960 --> 00:16:37,960
they hear the bark,
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00:16:37,960 --> 00:16:39,960
and they see that these guys aren't
messing around,
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00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:42,960
they all make sure that they keep
away from that herd and they will go
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00:16:42,960 --> 00:16:45,960
for something a little bit easier,
like the steenbok or duiker.
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00:16:45,960 --> 00:16:47,960
Despite some pretty sharp teeth,
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00:16:47,960 --> 00:16:51,960
Corvette's main anti-predator weapon
is at the other end.
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00:16:53,960 --> 00:16:54,960
See, she's marking a territory.
230
00:16:54,960 --> 00:16:57,960
She smelt something over there
that she felt was the threat,
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00:16:57,960 --> 00:16:59,960
so maybe there was a jackal
there last night.
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00:16:59,960 --> 00:17:02,960
She's marked her territory
over the scent to the jackal
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00:17:02,960 --> 00:17:05,960
to let the jackal know that
she is here.
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00:17:06,960 --> 00:17:09,960
Just by announcing their presence
in an area,
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00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:12,960
guard dogs like Corvette
have had an incredible success
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00:17:12,960 --> 00:17:16,000
in reducing predation, not
just by cheetahs,
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00:17:16,000 --> 00:17:19,000
but by a host of other predators,
too.
238
00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:20,960
Good boy.
239
00:17:20,960 --> 00:17:22,960
Who's a good boy?
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These dogs just work incredibly.
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00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:25,960
On the farms that they go out to,
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00:17:25,960 --> 00:17:29,160
they get 80 to 100% reduction
in livestock losses.
243
00:17:32,960 --> 00:17:35,960
As more of these incredible dogs
are introduced to herds,
244
00:17:35,960 --> 00:17:39,640
the hope is that farmers will no
longer feel the need
245
00:17:39,640 --> 00:17:42,000
to kill one of Africa's greatest
hunters.
246
00:17:47,960 --> 00:17:50,960
Returning to the station
at Otjiwarongo,
247
00:17:50,960 --> 00:17:54,960
we reboard to begin our epic journey
on through the legendary
248
00:17:54,960 --> 00:17:56,960
Kalahari Desert.
249
00:17:58,960 --> 00:18:02,960
Initially, we will retrace our route
back along the old copper line
250
00:18:02,960 --> 00:18:04,960
to the junction at Kranzberg,
251
00:18:04,960 --> 00:18:08,960
from where we'll branch east
across the desert
252
00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:10,960
towards our next stop, Windhoek,
253
00:18:10,960 --> 00:18:12,960
the capital of Namibia.
254
00:18:15,960 --> 00:18:18,160
Covering much of Namibia, Botswana
255
00:18:18,160 --> 00:18:20,960
and the western part
of South Africa,
256
00:18:20,960 --> 00:18:26,960
the Kalahari Desert extends some
350,000 square miles.
257
00:18:26,960 --> 00:18:32,000
In the local Tswana language,
Kalahari means "a waterless place".
258
00:18:35,640 --> 00:18:38,960
And there is perhaps no better place
to view it from
259
00:18:38,960 --> 00:18:40,960
than where Doug is viewing it,
260
00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:44,960
from one of our train's own watering
holes.
261
00:18:44,960 --> 00:18:48,960
I may have been generous with
the water.
262
00:18:48,960 --> 00:18:51,160
Nice relaxing before dinner.
263
00:18:51,160 --> 00:18:54,000
We've caught planes,
we've been on cruises...
264
00:18:56,640 --> 00:18:57,960
..and this is still the best.
265
00:18:57,960 --> 00:19:00,960
On the train, you see things
that you don't see at home
266
00:19:00,960 --> 00:19:03,000
or that you don't even plan to see.
267
00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:04,960
It's wonderful.
268
00:19:04,960 --> 00:19:07,960
You get on the train, you meet
strange people,
269
00:19:07,960 --> 00:19:09,960
when you get off you've got friends.
270
00:19:09,960 --> 00:19:13,960
It's a wonderful place to meet
people and see the country.
271
00:19:13,960 --> 00:19:18,960
Once a German colony, the European
population of southwest Africa
272
00:19:18,960 --> 00:19:21,960
had only reached around 14,000
people
273
00:19:21,960 --> 00:19:26,960
when it was taken over by the
British after the First World War.
274
00:19:26,960 --> 00:19:29,960
Much of that population
was centred around Windhoek,
275
00:19:29,960 --> 00:19:34,000
to which we are heading, and that,
as our historian Nicholas explains,
276
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,320
was for one very good reason.
277
00:19:37,960 --> 00:19:40,960
It has got a lot of natural springs.
278
00:19:40,960 --> 00:19:43,960
It's at an altitude of 1,642
metres.
279
00:19:43,960 --> 00:19:46,960
So it is actually quite high.
280
00:19:46,960 --> 00:19:50,960
And the presence of these springs
meant that you always had water.
281
00:19:50,960 --> 00:19:54,960
Now, the history of Namibia
is undoubtedly the search for water,
282
00:19:54,960 --> 00:19:58,960
because at every step of the way,
there was a shortage of water
283
00:19:58,960 --> 00:20:02,800
and sometimes a paralysing
shortage of water.
284
00:20:10,960 --> 00:20:14,960
Pulling into Windhoek station,
built in the early 1900s,
285
00:20:14,960 --> 00:20:19,960
we can see strong echoes
of Namibia's German past.
286
00:20:19,960 --> 00:20:22,960
It is amazing to me how much
the Germans put in
287
00:20:22,960 --> 00:20:28,960
in the short period of 1884 to 1918,
288
00:20:28,960 --> 00:20:32,960
which was the end of the First World
War, when they lost their colonies.
289
00:20:33,960 --> 00:20:36,960
Whilst the station is a product
of Namibia's German days,
290
00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:40,960
our next port of call, the Namibian
Craft Centre,
291
00:20:40,960 --> 00:20:43,960
reminds us that this country
had many cultures,
292
00:20:43,960 --> 00:20:46,960
long before
the coming of the Europeans.
293
00:20:49,960 --> 00:20:50,960
Run by Shareen,
294
00:20:50,960 --> 00:20:54,960
the centre allows craftspeople
from all over Namibia
295
00:20:54,960 --> 00:20:58,960
to sell their art, including
the San,
296
00:20:58,960 --> 00:21:01,800
who make these incredible beads.
297
00:21:03,960 --> 00:21:08,960
They've taken the traditional art
craft, San craft in jewellery,
298
00:21:08,960 --> 00:21:11,960
and they've done product development
and they've modernised it.
299
00:21:11,960 --> 00:21:14,960
And it really creates an income
300
00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:18,960
which they otherwise
would not have had.
301
00:21:18,960 --> 00:21:20,960
But if you look also at
the textiles,
302
00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:23,960
the artwork there is from the San
people.
303
00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:28,640
So that is then printed, laid out,
graphic design and printed
304
00:21:28,640 --> 00:21:31,960
on fabric, and that is produced
in South Africa.
305
00:21:31,960 --> 00:21:34,960
But for every metre of fabric
that is produced
306
00:21:34,960 --> 00:21:37,960
is a royalty that goes back to the
San people.
307
00:21:41,960 --> 00:21:45,960
With our bags full of the best
crafts Namibia has to offer,
308
00:21:45,960 --> 00:21:49,960
we reboard our train once more and
set off across the Kalahari.
309
00:21:53,960 --> 00:21:57,960
This time, we're in the company
of two women who have made
310
00:21:57,960 --> 00:22:00,320
Rovos Rail their second home,
311
00:22:00,320 --> 00:22:03,960
Diana Buchanan
and her sister, Valda Brown.
312
00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:06,960
My husband and I travelled 40 times
together, up and down
313
00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:09,960
between Cape Town and Johannesburg.
314
00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:14,960
And then when he died I carried
on travelling and now I'm up to 64.
315
00:22:14,960 --> 00:22:17,960
Her sister, Valda, a veteran of 12
trips,
316
00:22:17,960 --> 00:22:21,960
is convinced this train does
wonders for Diana.
317
00:22:21,960 --> 00:22:23,960
I looked at her last night
318
00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:28,000
and I thought she actually comes
alive on the train.
319
00:22:30,960 --> 00:22:33,480
Having booked with Rovos Rail so
many times,
320
00:22:33,480 --> 00:22:37,960
Diana really can call
this compartment a second home.
321
00:22:37,960 --> 00:22:42,960
This compartment has been named
after my husband, Buck Buchanan.
322
00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:47,960
And because he and I travelled
so regularly on this train,
323
00:22:47,960 --> 00:22:50,960
as I say, when he died,
he'd done 40 journeys.
324
00:22:50,960 --> 00:22:55,800
So that was reason enough to name
a compartment after him.
325
00:22:58,960 --> 00:23:01,960
Whenever the name Buchanan
turns up on the guest list,
326
00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:08,960
deputy manager Khangwelo makes sure
coach number 3453 is coupled up.
327
00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:09,960
Yes. The thing is,
328
00:23:09,960 --> 00:23:13,000
whenever she books a journey, we
always try to put
329
00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:15,640
this coach on the train
just for her.
330
00:23:15,640 --> 00:23:17,960
Like right now, I can tell
you the number one reason this coach
331
00:23:17,960 --> 00:23:20,960
is on the train is just
for her to have a room.
332
00:23:20,960 --> 00:23:23,960
So we always try to give
her her best experience ever.
333
00:23:23,960 --> 00:23:26,960
And her best experience
ever is to be travelling
334
00:23:26,960 --> 00:23:28,960
in her husband's memory.
335
00:23:29,960 --> 00:23:33,480
And what wonderful memories
this train creates.
336
00:23:33,480 --> 00:23:37,960
We've now travelled almost
1,000 miles through Namibia,
337
00:23:37,960 --> 00:23:40,960
and we're about to cross the border
into South Africa,
338
00:23:40,960 --> 00:23:43,160
where suddenly the desert will bloom
339
00:23:43,160 --> 00:23:47,160
and we'll find ourselves in one of
the great wine growing areas
340
00:23:47,160 --> 00:23:49,960
of the country.
341
00:23:49,960 --> 00:23:51,960
People don't always realise this,
342
00:23:51,960 --> 00:23:53,960
but vineyards originated
in the desert.
343
00:24:04,960 --> 00:24:06,960
Leaving Windhoek,
344
00:24:06,960 --> 00:24:09,960
our train travels on through the
great dry ocean
345
00:24:09,960 --> 00:24:12,640
that is the Kalahari Desert.
346
00:24:12,640 --> 00:24:14,960
And at this time of the evening,
you can stand at the back
347
00:24:14,960 --> 00:24:19,480
there with your arms out and pretend
to be Kate Winslet.
348
00:24:19,480 --> 00:24:21,960
And call it the reverse Winslet.
349
00:24:24,160 --> 00:24:29,960
After almost 600 miles, we cross
the border into South Africa
350
00:24:29,960 --> 00:24:33,960
and are suddenly confronted
by a green line in the bush.
351
00:24:33,960 --> 00:24:37,960
This is the Orange River,
an unexpected oasis
352
00:24:37,960 --> 00:24:41,960
where some of South Africa's best
grapes are grown.
353
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:44,960
And right on the line is the
Bezalel Estate,
354
00:24:44,960 --> 00:24:49,960
home of Marthinus, whose family
have been here for five generations.
355
00:24:51,960 --> 00:24:54,960
People don't always realise this,
but vineyards originated
356
00:24:54,960 --> 00:24:56,960
in the desert. It was the Persians
and the Greeks
357
00:24:56,960 --> 00:24:59,960
and the Romans who took it from what
is today called Iran
358
00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:02,960
and started spreading
it all over the world.
359
00:25:02,960 --> 00:25:05,960
And wherever they took it,
it's adapted
360
00:25:05,960 --> 00:25:07,960
to the new growing conditions.
361
00:25:11,800 --> 00:25:14,960
Key to any good wine is the
mineral-rich soil
362
00:25:14,960 --> 00:25:18,320
the vine grows in and the amount of
sunlight it gets,
363
00:25:18,320 --> 00:25:22,960
both of which exist in abundance
along the banks of the river.
364
00:25:25,960 --> 00:25:27,960
I mean, looking at the soil,
365
00:25:27,960 --> 00:25:30,960
it looks so rocky and it doesn't
look ideal for growing things in.
366
00:25:30,960 --> 00:25:34,960
I mean, just thinking of a desert,
the climate is very harsh,
367
00:25:34,960 --> 00:25:36,800
but at the end of the day,
368
00:25:36,800 --> 00:25:39,160
this is what makes it such
a good area to make wine in.
369
00:25:42,960 --> 00:25:44,960
So, for us, being able to grow
in such unique soil
370
00:25:44,960 --> 00:25:49,960
and in such unique conditions is not
really a challenge.
371
00:25:49,960 --> 00:25:53,160
It's more a privilege.
372
00:25:54,960 --> 00:25:59,960
The third ingredient is the water
of the Orange River itself.
373
00:25:59,960 --> 00:26:03,960
It really is the Orange River
that is the lifeline
374
00:26:03,960 --> 00:26:07,640
of this area, bringing the much
needed water we need
375
00:26:07,640 --> 00:26:11,960
to actually grow these grapes
in a desert-like environment.
376
00:26:16,000 --> 00:26:18,960
Many of the grapes grown
along the river go to make wine,
377
00:26:18,960 --> 00:26:21,960
but the Bezalel Estate is best
known
378
00:26:21,960 --> 00:26:25,960
for one of the grape's other
gifts...
379
00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:28,320
..brandy.
380
00:26:28,320 --> 00:26:33,960
My father really started in terms
of the wine, but he always
381
00:26:33,960 --> 00:26:36,960
had the idea in the back
of his head
382
00:26:36,960 --> 00:26:38,960
that the ultimate goal
would be turning that wine
383
00:26:38,960 --> 00:26:42,960
into brandy, rather than just making
wine for wine's sake.
384
00:26:44,320 --> 00:26:48,960
Unlike a whisky, where the flavour
of the drink flows from the tannins
385
00:26:48,960 --> 00:26:53,960
in the barrel, in brandy, the barrel
plays a more neutral role.
386
00:26:53,960 --> 00:26:56,960
Whisky, for instance,
during the ageing process,
387
00:26:56,960 --> 00:26:59,960
is where you're going to be adding
most of your flavour.
388
00:26:59,960 --> 00:27:03,320
You use second-hand barrels to add
flavour to your whisky,
389
00:27:03,320 --> 00:27:05,960
for instance, because all
of the flavour you taste
390
00:27:05,960 --> 00:27:08,960
in the whisky comes from
the secondary processes.
391
00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:09,960
Whereas with a brandy,
392
00:27:09,960 --> 00:27:12,960
what we're trying to do
is not add any new flavour,
393
00:27:12,960 --> 00:27:15,640
we're trying to develop
the flavour that's already
394
00:27:15,640 --> 00:27:16,960
inside the spirit itself.
395
00:27:20,160 --> 00:27:23,160
As the brandy matures over years,
396
00:27:23,160 --> 00:27:26,320
Marthinus tests for taste regularly.
397
00:27:27,480 --> 00:27:31,960
Brandy has now been in the barrel
ageing for about four years,
398
00:27:31,960 --> 00:27:35,640
and you can notice it starting
to change colour,
399
00:27:35,640 --> 00:27:36,960
slowly but surely.
400
00:27:36,960 --> 00:27:39,960
And it is this colour change
that is the only indication,
401
00:27:39,960 --> 00:27:42,960
initially, that this process is
actually happening.
402
00:27:45,960 --> 00:27:47,960
And depending on how they are
changing,
403
00:27:47,960 --> 00:27:51,960
will determine should this one stay
in this barrel for another five
404
00:27:51,960 --> 00:27:55,800
or another ten years, or should we
bottle it
405
00:27:55,800 --> 00:27:57,960
in another two years or so?
406
00:27:57,960 --> 00:28:02,000
Many brandies stay in the barrel
for more than ten years.
407
00:28:02,000 --> 00:28:04,960
Brandy will take me just as long
as it would take you
408
00:28:04,960 --> 00:28:06,960
to put your kids through school.
409
00:28:06,960 --> 00:28:08,960
It's the same time and level
of commitment.
410
00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:11,960
And just as your kids, you're not
even sure exactly how it's going
411
00:28:11,960 --> 00:28:13,960
to turn out because there
are so many influences
412
00:28:13,960 --> 00:28:15,960
out of your control.
413
00:28:15,960 --> 00:28:21,160
But if it does turn out
OK, the taste is sublime.
414
00:28:21,160 --> 00:28:23,960
Now, the specific bottle we're
tasting right now
415
00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:27,960
spent about nine and a half years
inside a barrel.
416
00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:30,960
And even though we could have left
it for another two years
417
00:28:30,960 --> 00:28:32,960
to say it's 12 years old,
418
00:28:32,960 --> 00:28:35,960
it really was already where we
wanted it to be.
419
00:28:38,640 --> 00:28:40,960
If you look at the top notes
of this brandy,
420
00:28:40,960 --> 00:28:44,320
it really is a lot
more earthy all of a sudden.
421
00:28:45,160 --> 00:28:47,960
And also, the key difference
here is, of course,
422
00:28:47,960 --> 00:28:49,960
the fact that it is so much
smoother.
423
00:28:49,960 --> 00:28:53,960
The longer it lies in the barrel,
the more you're evaporating
424
00:28:53,960 --> 00:28:55,960
the volatile components
of the brandy itself,
425
00:28:55,960 --> 00:29:00,960
and what you left over with is just
the heart of the brandy,
426
00:29:00,960 --> 00:29:03,960
minus that
harshness of the raw spirit.
427
00:29:06,000 --> 00:29:08,960
With the warm glow of brandy
in our chests,
428
00:29:08,960 --> 00:29:11,800
we are back on board our train
once more,
429
00:29:11,800 --> 00:29:14,000
heading into yet
another African night.
430
00:29:15,960 --> 00:29:18,960
PLAYS MELODY
431
00:29:18,960 --> 00:29:22,960
With no tannoy on board, Loren
alerts the guests
432
00:29:22,960 --> 00:29:24,960
with the sound of a glockenspiel.
433
00:29:26,960 --> 00:29:30,960
I'm announcing that it's almost
dinner time.
434
00:29:30,960 --> 00:29:35,960
In the kitchen, the chefs are once
again preparing a feast.
435
00:29:36,960 --> 00:29:39,960
Our fellow guests are dressed
to the nines,
436
00:29:39,960 --> 00:29:43,960
the wine is flowing and things
are getting quite jolly.
437
00:29:44,960 --> 00:29:49,960
Even our onboard historian Nicholas
has got his favourite dickie out.
438
00:29:49,960 --> 00:29:53,960
My zebra bowtie is a product
of a visit to a remarkable
439
00:29:53,960 --> 00:29:57,960
little hole in the wall shop in
Dar es Salaam many, many years ago,
440
00:29:57,960 --> 00:30:00,960
which only sells zebra skin
products.
441
00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:04,960
Everything, sandals,
belts, handbags, you name it.
442
00:30:04,960 --> 00:30:12,960
And I found this this bowtie
and, well, I had two choices,
443
00:30:12,960 --> 00:30:16,160
I could buy it as the bowtie, or I
could buy it also
444
00:30:16,160 --> 00:30:19,960
with a little motor that goes
"brrr-rrr-rrr" round and round.
445
00:30:19,960 --> 00:30:22,960
But I decided to just stick
with the bowtie.
446
00:30:24,800 --> 00:30:28,960
As the party rolls on, we'll travel
from Upington to Kimberley,
447
00:30:28,960 --> 00:30:32,960
stopping at the greatest diamond
mine in the world.
448
00:30:32,960 --> 00:30:35,160
From there, our train will go
on to Pretoria,
449
00:30:35,160 --> 00:30:37,960
where we'll pay homage to Nelson
Mandela,
450
00:30:37,960 --> 00:30:40,960
the man who helped found
the Rainbow Nation
451
00:30:40,960 --> 00:30:42,960
South Africa is hoping to become.
452
00:30:45,960 --> 00:30:48,960
In the morning, we are rolling
through an area
453
00:30:48,960 --> 00:30:50,000
that was once a border country
454
00:30:50,000 --> 00:30:54,160
between the British Cape Colony
and the Orange Free State,
455
00:30:54,160 --> 00:30:57,960
an independent state created
by the Boers, the descendants
456
00:30:57,960 --> 00:31:02,960
of mainly Dutch people who arrived
in the 17th century.
457
00:31:02,960 --> 00:31:04,960
And it was here, for good or ill,
458
00:31:04,960 --> 00:31:08,480
that the history of much
of southern Africa was forged
459
00:31:08,480 --> 00:31:13,960
by precious stones,
and the will of one man.
460
00:31:13,960 --> 00:31:17,960
The stones were diamonds,
and the man was Cecil Rhodes.
461
00:31:18,960 --> 00:31:21,960
Diamonds were found a short
distance away from Kimberley
462
00:31:21,960 --> 00:31:26,960
along the river banks in the
1870s... Rather, the late 1860s.
463
00:31:26,960 --> 00:31:33,160
And then in 1871, someone
found them on a little hill.
464
00:31:33,160 --> 00:31:35,960
And from that little hill,
it's been excavated out
465
00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:38,480
to form the Big Hole.
466
00:31:38,480 --> 00:31:40,320
The Big Hole, as it was
called,
467
00:31:40,320 --> 00:31:43,960
was once one of the largest
diamond mines in the world,
468
00:31:43,960 --> 00:31:48,160
controlled by Cecil Rhodes
and his company, De Beers Mining.
469
00:31:48,160 --> 00:31:50,960
Now a museum, David is a guide.
470
00:31:51,960 --> 00:31:56,960
Now, in the beginning, this whole
place was a farm called Vooruitzigt.
471
00:31:56,960 --> 00:32:01,320
The farm was owned by two brothers,
Diederik and Johannes De Beers.
472
00:32:01,320 --> 00:32:05,000
They bought the farm in the year
1860 from the government at the time
473
00:32:05,000 --> 00:32:06,960
for only ยฃ50.
474
00:32:07,960 --> 00:32:10,960
At that time, the land around here
was of little value
475
00:32:10,960 --> 00:32:13,960
and Kimberley was part of the
Orange Free State.
476
00:32:16,480 --> 00:32:18,960
But then diamonds were discovered
477
00:32:18,960 --> 00:32:20,960
and the British moved in.
478
00:32:23,960 --> 00:32:27,320
Now, on the 16th of July, 1871,
479
00:32:27,320 --> 00:32:29,960
over 40,000 miners came here.
480
00:32:29,960 --> 00:32:34,960
With pick and shovel only, they dug
by hand up until 240 metres.
481
00:32:37,000 --> 00:32:40,960
Arguably the biggest hand-dug
hole in the world,
482
00:32:40,960 --> 00:32:45,960
the mine started out as small claims
of about 30 square feet,
483
00:32:45,960 --> 00:32:48,000
each dug by one or two miners.
484
00:32:49,960 --> 00:32:52,960
The upper level was called yellow
grounds, didn't have much diamonds.
485
00:32:52,960 --> 00:32:58,960
So later on in the year 1892,
they introduced the headgear.
486
00:32:58,960 --> 00:33:01,960
OK, it's the solo construction with
the wheel on top.
487
00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:05,960
The headgear dug deeper,
1,097 metres.
488
00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:07,960
Out of the Big Hole,
489
00:33:07,960 --> 00:33:12,960
they took about 14.5 million carats
of diamonds.
490
00:33:12,960 --> 00:33:13,960
That's a lot.
491
00:33:16,960 --> 00:33:20,960
Conditions in the early
days were tough.
492
00:33:21,960 --> 00:33:24,000
Can you see that small shack
down there?
493
00:33:24,000 --> 00:33:25,960
All right. Looks like a dog kennel.
494
00:33:25,960 --> 00:33:28,960
OK. All over here were small
shakes and tents belonging
495
00:33:28,960 --> 00:33:30,960
to the miners, their accommodation.
496
00:33:30,960 --> 00:33:33,960
Now, you can imagine in the winter,
the heat, heavy rain,
497
00:33:33,960 --> 00:33:35,960
how it was in a small shack.
498
00:33:35,960 --> 00:33:37,320
Now, the machine there next
to it,
499
00:33:37,320 --> 00:33:39,960
that is the diamond sorting
machine.
500
00:33:39,960 --> 00:33:42,960
What happened, there in the middle,
there's a surf.
501
00:33:42,960 --> 00:33:45,320
They would take a bucket
full of sand
502
00:33:45,320 --> 00:33:48,960
then they will pour it,
the sand will fall through,
503
00:33:48,960 --> 00:33:51,320
but then will get caught on the
surf.
504
00:33:52,960 --> 00:33:55,960
The mine was so productive
that it flooded the market,
505
00:33:55,960 --> 00:33:57,960
causing the price to drop
506
00:33:57,960 --> 00:34:00,960
and bankrupting many of the smaller
miners.
507
00:34:08,960 --> 00:34:12,320
Eventually, the entire operation
was under the control
508
00:34:12,320 --> 00:34:15,960
of a small clique of extremely rich
men,
509
00:34:15,960 --> 00:34:17,960
who gathered in this building,
510
00:34:17,960 --> 00:34:19,960
the Kimberley Club.
511
00:34:21,640 --> 00:34:25,640
There were more millionaires
per square foot anywhere else
512
00:34:25,640 --> 00:34:28,160
in the world under the roof
of Kimberley Club.
513
00:34:28,160 --> 00:34:30,160
All the diamond magnates.
514
00:34:30,160 --> 00:34:34,960
Diamonds were a very quick way of
making money in those days.
515
00:34:34,960 --> 00:34:37,960
You dug up your diamonds.
You could sell it immediately.
516
00:34:39,000 --> 00:34:42,000
Perhaps the most influential
of the diamond magnates
517
00:34:42,000 --> 00:34:44,960
was Cecil Rhodes, who at the age
of 35,
518
00:34:44,960 --> 00:34:47,960
controlled almost
the entire diamond market.
519
00:34:47,960 --> 00:34:51,960
But that was only the beginning
of his ambitions.
520
00:34:52,960 --> 00:34:55,960
This veranda at Kimberley Club
is very historic.
521
00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:59,000
A lot of influential people met
here and had discussions
522
00:34:59,000 --> 00:35:02,480
that essentially led to the carving
up of Africa.
523
00:35:02,480 --> 00:35:05,960
Cecil John Rhodes himself wanted to
colonise everything up
524
00:35:05,960 --> 00:35:06,960
as he went north.
525
00:35:10,960 --> 00:35:12,960
That he wanted to take over
Africa,
526
00:35:12,960 --> 00:35:15,960
owning as much of its
mineral wealth as he could,
527
00:35:15,960 --> 00:35:17,960
is perhaps shocking enough,
528
00:35:17,960 --> 00:35:22,960
but what is worse was his contention
that the white race was superior
529
00:35:22,960 --> 00:35:25,960
and through that was justified
in stripping the indigenous
530
00:35:25,960 --> 00:35:29,960
population of their lands
and their rights.
531
00:35:29,960 --> 00:35:31,960
The history is very painful,
532
00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:36,160
but it's a history that needs
to be told.
533
00:35:36,160 --> 00:35:37,960
Yes, Mr Rhodes,
534
00:35:37,960 --> 00:35:40,960
from his side,
he was an imperialist.
535
00:35:40,960 --> 00:35:44,960
What he found here, in Africa,
536
00:35:44,960 --> 00:35:47,960
he said it belonged to his people.
537
00:35:47,960 --> 00:35:50,960
So from our side, in Africa,
we suffered.
538
00:35:50,960 --> 00:35:55,960
All right, so from our side,
his history is a bit better for us.
539
00:35:59,960 --> 00:36:03,800
Returning to our train, we leave
Kimberley on railway tracks
540
00:36:03,800 --> 00:36:06,960
that exist because of Rhodes' dream.
541
00:36:06,960 --> 00:36:10,320
This is a section of his
Cape to Cairo fantasy,
542
00:36:10,320 --> 00:36:14,640
a railway line he'd hoped would run
the entire length of the continent
543
00:36:14,640 --> 00:36:16,800
from Cape Town north to Cairo,
544
00:36:16,800 --> 00:36:20,800
on territory that he hoped
would belong to the British Empire.
545
00:36:22,960 --> 00:36:25,960
A bittersweet reminder
of the follies of empire
546
00:36:25,960 --> 00:36:29,960
and the suffering it ultimately
brought to the peoples
547
00:36:29,960 --> 00:36:31,960
of southern Africa.
548
00:36:31,960 --> 00:36:34,960
But as our train rolls on,
we are heading to Pretoria,
549
00:36:34,960 --> 00:36:39,960
where we will visit the statue of a
man who hoped to heal that pain.
550
00:36:39,960 --> 00:36:43,960
To me, being part of a project
like this opened up a new way
551
00:36:43,960 --> 00:36:48,960
of thinking because it opened
up the history of South Africa.
552
00:36:48,960 --> 00:36:51,960
It showed me a part of the history
that I did not know about.
553
00:36:59,960 --> 00:37:03,480
The sun is now setting
on this incredible journey
554
00:37:03,480 --> 00:37:05,960
across southern Africa.
555
00:37:05,960 --> 00:37:06,960
The wine still flows
556
00:37:06,960 --> 00:37:10,480
and the kitchens are preparing yet
another feast
557
00:37:10,480 --> 00:37:13,960
as we head
into our last African night.
558
00:37:27,960 --> 00:37:32,960
In the morning, now pulled by two
Class 18E electric locomotives,
559
00:37:32,960 --> 00:37:36,320
our train is rolling through
greener lands.
560
00:37:36,320 --> 00:37:39,160
This section of the line runs almost
1,000 miles
561
00:37:39,160 --> 00:37:41,480
from Cape Town up to Pretoria,
562
00:37:41,480 --> 00:37:42,960
our final stop.
563
00:37:43,960 --> 00:37:48,480
Between the wars, it was the route
of the luxury Union Express train,
564
00:37:48,480 --> 00:37:51,960
an era our carriages were part of.
565
00:37:51,960 --> 00:37:54,960
And as we arrive at Rovos Rail's
own platforms
566
00:37:54,960 --> 00:37:57,960
in the Pretoria suburb
of Capital Park,
567
00:37:57,960 --> 00:37:59,960
it's as if that era lives
on,
568
00:37:59,960 --> 00:38:01,960
as it's here that engineers like Joe
569
00:38:01,960 --> 00:38:05,960
bring the wonderful carriages we've
travelled in back to life.
570
00:38:07,960 --> 00:38:11,960
This is a 1924 dining car
originally,
571
00:38:11,960 --> 00:38:14,960
and it was a 44 seater dining car.
572
00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:18,640
We converted
it into an observation car.
573
00:38:18,640 --> 00:38:19,960
We took that wall,
574
00:38:19,960 --> 00:38:23,960
we put it in so that it can
have an open air balcony.
575
00:38:25,960 --> 00:38:29,960
Whilst Rovos Rail celebrates
all that is good about the past,
576
00:38:29,960 --> 00:38:34,640
South Africa has changed
beyond recognition.
577
00:38:34,640 --> 00:38:39,960
A change personified by the giant
statue of Nelson Mandela,
578
00:38:39,960 --> 00:38:43,960
or Madiba, as he is often called,
in front of the Union Buildings
579
00:38:43,960 --> 00:38:45,960
just a few miles away.
580
00:38:57,960 --> 00:39:01,960
Right from the start, its sculptors,
Andre and Ruhan,
581
00:39:01,960 --> 00:39:04,960
wanted to
replace division with inclusion.
582
00:39:14,800 --> 00:39:18,960
So, we were thinking if you repeat
the form of the building
583
00:39:18,960 --> 00:39:22,000
with the arms, it creates
a repetition
584
00:39:22,000 --> 00:39:27,960
and repetition creates rhythm, and
it makes the whole feeling,
585
00:39:27,960 --> 00:39:30,960
if you look at it, it creates
a calmness.
586
00:39:32,960 --> 00:39:34,960
Commissioned as Mandela's health
declined,
587
00:39:34,960 --> 00:39:37,480
the team had to work
against the clock.
588
00:39:39,960 --> 00:39:42,960
They told us we had six
months, less than six months
589
00:39:42,960 --> 00:39:43,960
in which to do this.
590
00:39:43,960 --> 00:39:47,960
Now, normally we would do a statue
like this in 18 months to 2 years,
591
00:39:47,960 --> 00:39:51,960
but we had six months
in which to do this.
592
00:39:51,960 --> 00:39:55,960
The key to the statue's power
radiates in those features
593
00:39:55,960 --> 00:39:58,320
the team really focused on.
594
00:40:01,480 --> 00:40:03,960
The smiling face. I mean, he had,
you know...
595
00:40:03,960 --> 00:40:06,960
His whole demeanour had to be one
that was friendly.
596
00:40:06,960 --> 00:40:08,480
Unselfishness.
597
00:40:08,480 --> 00:40:13,960
And you can't...
There's no anger, no hate.
598
00:40:13,960 --> 00:40:15,960
Yeah, that's amazing.
599
00:40:15,960 --> 00:40:17,960
He was a true, you know...
He was really a person
600
00:40:17,960 --> 00:40:20,800
that really practised
what he preached.
601
00:40:20,800 --> 00:40:22,960
And that was the acceptance of all.
602
00:40:22,960 --> 00:40:24,960
All human life was equal to him.
603
00:40:26,960 --> 00:40:30,480
Sadly, Mandela died before the
statue was finished,
604
00:40:30,480 --> 00:40:34,960
but the pair had an idea that would
help people with their grief -
605
00:40:34,960 --> 00:40:38,160
a way that people could
communicate with Mandela,
606
00:40:38,160 --> 00:40:40,960
even though the man himself
had passed.
607
00:40:42,960 --> 00:40:47,480
I remember with the installation,
608
00:40:47,480 --> 00:40:54,960
we asked the foundry to grind
the tiny slit in his left leg.
609
00:40:54,960 --> 00:41:00,960
And you were able to send all post
letters to him on that day.
610
00:41:02,960 --> 00:41:06,960
The idea was that mourners
could find a way of saying goodbye
611
00:41:06,960 --> 00:41:09,960
in a personal and deeply
private way.
612
00:41:11,960 --> 00:41:14,960
The idea that we wanted to say,
if you've never met Madiba,
613
00:41:14,960 --> 00:41:17,960
or if you wanted to say something
special to him, you write a letter
614
00:41:17,960 --> 00:41:19,960
and you put it in his statue,
in his sculpture.
615
00:41:19,960 --> 00:41:23,960
And in that way, this is
his, you know... It's not for us.
616
00:41:23,960 --> 00:41:26,160
It's not for this life.
617
00:41:26,160 --> 00:41:28,960
It's for the afterlife that
these letters are intended,
618
00:41:28,960 --> 00:41:32,960
and for the idea of what Madiba
stood for.
619
00:41:32,960 --> 00:41:36,160
Standing beneath the statue, Andre
is reminded of how it helped him
620
00:41:36,160 --> 00:41:38,960
to understand Mandela and South
Africa,
621
00:41:38,960 --> 00:41:41,960
which had a profound
effect upon him.
622
00:41:42,960 --> 00:41:46,960
For me, being part of a project
like this opened up a new way
623
00:41:46,960 --> 00:41:50,960
of thinking because it opened
up the history of South Africa.
624
00:41:50,960 --> 00:41:53,960
It showed me a part of the history
that I did not know,
625
00:41:53,960 --> 00:41:55,960
that was hidden from us
for such a long time.
626
00:41:55,960 --> 00:41:58,960
For me, it makes me understand
where I come from.
627
00:42:00,960 --> 00:42:03,320
And with that thought, it's time
to look back
628
00:42:03,320 --> 00:42:05,160
on where we have come from.
629
00:42:06,800 --> 00:42:12,960
An incredible 1,500 mile journey
from the wilds of the Namib desert,
630
00:42:12,960 --> 00:42:15,960
where we spent time with the people
who have made it their home
631
00:42:15,960 --> 00:42:19,480
for millennia, and with animals,
for even longer.
632
00:42:21,480 --> 00:42:24,960
And on through the lush oasis
of the Orange River
633
00:42:24,960 --> 00:42:26,960
to the diamond fields of Kimberly
634
00:42:26,960 --> 00:42:29,000
that did so much to
create South Africa
635
00:42:29,000 --> 00:42:30,960
during the days of Empire.
636
00:42:33,960 --> 00:42:36,960
And finally, we have arrived
in Pretoria,
637
00:42:36,960 --> 00:42:42,960
where the sun has to set on this
most scenic of railway journeys.
54325
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