All language subtitles for srt

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NOW YOU'RE WATCHING GEARZ, BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

HEY WELCOME TO GEARZ.

YOU KNOW LAST WEEK WE DUG INTO SOME OF THE FINAL ASSEMBLY OF

THE SERGEANT ROCK PROJECT AND SHOWED YOU HOW THE FRAME,

THE AXELS, THE STEERING, THE SUSPENSION, THE BRAKES WERE ALL

DESIGNED TO WORK TOGETHER, AND IT WAS A LOT OF WORK CRAMMED

INTO JUST A FEW SHORT MINUTES.

AFTER THAT WE MOVED ONTO THE INTERIOR AND SHOWED SOME OF

THE TECHNIQUES INVOLVED IN DESIGNING AND CONSTRUCTING

CUSTOM SEAT BRACKETS, FLOOR PANELS, AND EVEN A CUSTOM

CONSOLE THAT WILL NOT ONLY LOOK GOOD BUT WILL ALSO BE

FUNCTIONAL FOR THE VEHICLE YOU'RE WORKING ON.

AND THAT IS WHERE WE'RE GOING TO PICK IT UP AGAIN TODAY

BECAUSE EVEN THOUGH THE INTERIOR LOOKS REALLY GOOD IT'S

NOT COMPLETELY FINISHED YET, BECAUSE WE STILL NEED TO DO

SOMETHING WITH THE DOOR PANELS, WHICH ARE OVER

THERE CONNECTED TO THE DOORS, AND THE KICK PANELS

WHICH AT THIS POINT DON'T EXIST.

NOW AS YOU CAN SEE THE ORIGINAL DOORS HAVE A STAMPED PANEL ON

THE INSIDE BUT THAT'S IT, THERE'S NOTHING ELSE.

SO WE DECIDED TO PUNCH THINGS UP A LITTLE BIT BY

BUILDING SOME INSERTS TO GO INTO THOSE INDENTATIONS.

SO THE FIRST THING WE HAVE TO DECIDE IS WHAT WE WANT TO BUILD

THOSE OUT OF, BECAUSE WE'VE GOT A COUPLE THINGS GOING ON HERE.

WE'VE GOT BROWN DISTRESSED LEATHER ON THE SEATS, BUT WE

ALSO HAVE A LOT OF BRUSHED ALUMINUM GOING ON TOO.

BOTH WOULD LOOK GOOD, BOTH WOULD FIT, BUT IN KEEPING WITH

THE WORLD WAR II BOMBER VIBE WE'VE GOT GOING ON HERE,

I THINK THE BRUSHED ALUMINUM AND RIVETS IS GOING TO

LOOK BETTER ON THE DOORS, SO THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GOING TO DO.

THE FIRST STEP IS TO CREATE A PATTERN FOR THE INSERT,

AND MASKING TAPE WORKS GREAT FOR THIS.

NOW JUST TRANSFER THE PATTERN TO CARDBOARD AND CUT IT

OUT AND MAKE YOUR TEMPLATE.

MAKE SURE YOU SPEND A FEW MINUTES DRAWING UP AND TRIMMING

YOUR TEMPLATE SO IT FITS EXACTLY HOW YOU WANT IT,

BECAUSE TRIMMING CARDBOARD IS A WHOLE LOT EASIER THAN TRIMMING

METAL LATER ON.

ONCE YOUR TEMPLATE'S RIGHT, TRANSFER THE SHAPE

TO THE METAL.

IN THIS CASE WE'RE USING 14 GAGE ALUMINUM, BECAUSE IT FITS

THE DEPTH OF THE POCKET REALLY WELL AND IT ALSO MATCHES

THE LOOK OF THE CONSOLE.

NOW TO MOUNT OUR PANELS WE'RE GOING TO USE THE SAME BRASS

SCREWS THAT WE DID ON THE CONSOLE, SO THAT MEANS NOT ONLY

DRILLING EVENLY SPACED HOLES IN THE PANEL BUT ALSO IN THE DOOR,

AND OF COURSE THOSE NEED TO BE TAPPED.

THEN OF COURSE THE FINAL STEP IS TO TRUE UP THE ENDS OF THE

OPENINGS, AND TO BRUSH AND SEAL THE ALUMINUM

SO IT MATCHES THE CONSOLE.

NOW IF YOU WERE GOING TO UPHOLSTER THESE PANELS,

THE PROCESS WOULD BE SIMILAR, BUT OBVIOUSLY YOU WOULDN'T WANT

TO BUILD THEM OUT OF ALUMINUM, IT'S TOO EXPENSIVE,

YOU'D WANT TO USE PARTICLE BOARD OR PLASTIC

LIKE A TRADITIONAL DOOR PANEL.

ALSO, IF YOU WANTED TO USE HIDDEN FASTENERS INSTEAD OF

SCREWS, YOU WOULD HAVE TO GET THE CLIPS THAT YOU NEED,

THEN YOU'D HAVE TO SLOT YOUR PANEL, HIDE THESE UNDER

THE UPHOLSTERY, AND THEN DRILL YOUR DOOR ACCORDINGLY.

ALL RIGHT, LET'S SEE HOW THESE FIT.

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NOW ONCE IT'S ALL PUT BACK TOGETHER YOU CAN SEE WHAT

A DIFFERENCE ALL THIS MAKES TO THE LOOK OF THE DOOR, AND IT'S

NOT THAT HARD, JUST TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF TIME.

NOW TAKE A LOOK AT THIS, THE BUTTON HEAD SCREWS, THE BRUSHED

FINISH GIVE THE DOOR A NICE DIMENSION WITHOUT MAKING IT TOO

BUSY OR TOO GAUDY, JUST NICE AND CLEAN AND TO THE POINT.

NOW THESE, THESE ARE THE ORIGINAL DOOR HANDLES, ALL WE

DID WAS SCUFF THEM UP SO THEY MATCHED EVERYTHING

AND PUT THEM IN PLACE.

AND NOW THIS DOOR IS READY TO GO ON THE TRUCK.

OK, WITH THE DOORS TAKEN CARE OF, NOW WE ARE GOING TO TURN

OUR ATTENTION TO THESE KICK PANELS, AND THEY ARE A LITTLE

MORE DIFFICULT THAN THE DOORS BECAUSE THERE IS NO

PREDETERMINED SHAPE HERE.

REMEMBER, WE'VE DONE CUSTOM METAL WORK ON THE FIREWALL, ON

THE FLOORS, ON THE COWL, EVERYWHERE, SO THERE'S NO

FACTORY PCE THAT'S JUST GOING TO BOLT IN HERE, BUT THAT'S NOT

A PROBLEM BECAUSE ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS BUILD A PANEL THAT'S

GOING TO SPAN THIS AREA BETWEEN THE DOOR JAM AND THE FIREWALL.

SO WE'RE GOING TO START BY GRABBING SOME TRUSTY CARDBOARD,

THEN WE'RE GOING TO START BUILDING A TEMPLATE SO WE CAN

MAKE A PANEL THAT WILL DO JUST THAT.

SINCE THIS IS A CREATIVE PROCESS, THERE'S GOING TO BE A

LITTLE BIT OF TRIAL AND ERROR INVOLVED UNTIL YOU FIND WHAT'S

GOING TO WORK BEST FOR YOUR APPLICATION.

ONCE YOU HAVE THE SHAPE DIALED IN, JUST TRANSFER IT TO

THE ALUMINUM AND MAKE YOUR PANEL.

NOW QUICK TIP, BROUGHT TO YOU BY: A LOT OF TIMES WHEN YOU'RE

BUILDING A CUSTOM PANEL LIKE THIS, YOU'RE GOING TO WANT TO

ROLL A BEAD OR CUT AN OPENING IN

THE PANEL FOR DETAIL.

NOW THE PROBLEMS YOU'RE GOING TO RUN INTO IS RADIUS-ING

ALL THE CORNERS OF THESE CUTS EXACTLY THE SAME WAY,

BECAUSE IF YOU DON'T IT'S GOING TO LOOK

BAD AND THERE'S NO WAY YOU CAN FREE HAND

EVERY ONE OF THOSE THE SAME.

NOW A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVE HEARD ABOUT THE TIP OF TAKING

A PAINT CAP OR A WASHER OR A ROLL OF TAPE TO GIVE

YOU A RADIUS, UNTIL YOU FORGET WHAT YOU USED OR UNTIL

THE ROLL OF TAPE GETS SMALLER.

NO, THERE'S A BETTER WAY TO DO IT.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS REACH FOR YOUR SET OF DEEP WELL SOCKETS

AND NOW YOU CAN DIAL IN EXACTLY THE RADIUS THAT YOU WANT TO PUT

INTO THE PANEL, THEN ONCE YOU'VE DECIDED, YOU CAN WRITE

DOWN THE SIZE OF THE SOCKET ON THE BACK OF THE PANEL ALONG

WITH YOUR OTHER MEASUREMENTS SO IF YOU EVER

NEED TO MAKE ANOTHER PANEL, EVEN IF IT'S

YEARS FROM NOW, YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT

SIZE OF RADIUS YOU PUT IN IT, WHICH GOES TO SHOW

YOU, THERE'S MORE USE FOR THESE THAN JUST

TIGHTENING NUTS AND BOLTS.

IF YOU'D LIKE TO LEARN MORE TIPS TO MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER IN THE SHOP, CHECK OUT THE TIPS PAGE ON THE WEBSITE.

WELCOME BACK TO GEARZ WHERE WE HAVE JUST FINISHED LAYING OUT

THE INTERIOR OF SERGEANT ROCK, BY LAYING CUSTOM DOOR PANELS

AND KICK PANELS TO MATCH THE FLOORS AND THE CONSOLE THAT WE

DID LAST WEEK, AND AS YOU CAN SEE IT LOOKS AWESOME.

AND NOW WE'RE GOING TO TURN OUR ATTENTION TO THE FUEL TANK

AND THE BATTERIES.

NOW BECAUSE THE 1941 DODGE HALF TON IS ACTUALLY A PRETTY SMALL

TRUCK AND WE'VE ALREADY GOT A TON OF THINGS MOUNTED UNDER THE

CAB LIKE A TRANSFER CASE AND A REAR STEERING UNIT AND EXTRA

CROSS MEMBERS, ABOUT THE ONLY PLACE THAT WE CAN MOUNT

THE TANK AND BATTERIES IS RIGHT THERE IN THE FRONT OF THE BED.

BUT WE DON'T JUST WANT ANY OLD FUEL TANK, WE'VE GOT TO HAVE

SOMETHING THAT ACTUALLY MATCHES THE LOOK OF WHAT WE'RE DOING

HERE, SO WE WENT TO RICK'S TANKS AND HAD HIM WHIP

ONE UP FOR US.

TAKE A LOOK.

RICK'S HOT ROD SHOP SPECIALIZES IN STAINLESS STEEL FUEL TANKS FOR CLASSIC CARS AND MUSCLE CARS, OR THEY WILL HAND BUILD

YOU SOMETHING IF YOU'RE WORKING ON SOMETHING CRAZY LIKE WE ARE.

SO WE GAVE THEM SOME MEASUREMENTS AND A BASIC DESIGN

OF WHAT WE WANTED: THIS IS WHAT THEY BUILT.

NOW IN TYPICAL RICK'S FASHION, YOU CAN SEE IT'S MADE OUT OF

STAINLESS STEEL, ALL THE SEAMS ARE TIG WELDED, AND THEY EVEN

ROLLED A BEAD IN THE SIDES TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE AN OLD JERRY

CAN, WHICH IS REALLY COOL.

NOW UP HERE ON TOP YOU'VE GOT THE PLACE FOR YOUR SENDING

UNIT, OVER HERE YOU HAVE A PLACE FOR A VENT, OF COURSE

YOUR INLET IS HERE ON THE SIDE, AND THEN IN THE CENTER IF

YOU'LL TAKE A LOOK, YOU'LL NOTICE THAT ALL RICK'S TANKS

ARE FULLY BAFFLED, SO YOU'RE NOT GOING TO HAVE A PROBLEM

WITH FUEL SLOSH IF YOU'RE DOING ANY KIND

OF HIGH PERFORMANCE DRIVING.

NOW FOR A FUEL PUMP, WE HAD HIM DO TWO OF THEM.

WE'VE GOT TWO ELECTRIC PUMPS BOTH HAVE THE CAPACITY

TO HANDLE 850 HORSE POWER.

THE REASON WE'RE DOING TWO IS SO WE HAVE AN AUXILIARY PUMP

JUST IN CASE OUR PRIMARY PUMP TAKES A DUMP.

NOW IF YOU'LL NOTICE, THIS CENTER PART IS COMPLETELY

CLOCK-ABLE, THAT WILL ALLOW YOU TO MOUNT YOUR FUEL INLETS AND

OUTLETS WHEREVER YOU NEED TO FOR YOUR APPLICATION, MAKING

THIS A VERY EASY TANK TO INSTALL.

TO MOUNT THE TANK, FIRST WE'RE GOING TO ADD A LAYER OF

RUBBERIZED PADDING TO THE BACK OF THE BOTTOM, AND ON THE

MOUNTING STRAPS SO WE DON'T HAVE ANY

METAL TO METAL CONTACT.

NEXT WE'LL INSTALL THE SENDING UNIT AND THE ROLL OVER VENT AND

GET OUR FUEL OUTLET SITUATED.

FINALLY, WE'LL JUST SET THE TANK IN PLACE AND MOUNT

IT WITH THE STRAPS.

YOU HAD THE HARD JOB ON THAT ONE.

TO GET OUR FUEL TO THE ENGINE, WE'RE GOING TO PLUMB OUR LINES WITH EARL'S SPEED FLEX HOSE AND ADD IT TO FITTINGS,

BECAUSE THE SPEED FLEX HAS A SUPER TOUGH BRAIDED

STAINLESS STEEL OUTER SHELL AND INSIDE IT'S GOT

A TEFLON LINER, WHICH MAKES IT COMPATIBLE WITH ALL THE FUELS

OUT THERE, INCLUDING THOSE WITH ETHANOL.

ALL RIGHT, WHILE WE'RE BACK HERE, WE NEED TO LAY OUT OUR

BATTERIES, AND I SAY BATTERIES BECAUSE WE'RE GOING TO USE DUAL

BATTERIES ON THIS THING BECAUSE THAT REAR STEER

SUCKS SO MUCH JUICE.

SO WE'RE GOING TO START WITH A PAIR OF OPTIMA éLOW TOP DEEP CYCLE BATTERIES, BECAUSE FIRST OF ALL THEY HAVE 870 CRANKING

AMPS, SECOND OF ALL THEY'RE A DEEP CYCLE BATTERY, WHICH MEANS

THEY RECOVER REALLY QUICKLY WHICH IS ALWAYS GREAT ON AN OFF

ROAD RIG.

OK, WE HAVE OUR DUAL BATTERIES, NOW HOW ARE WE

GOING TO MOUNT THEM?

WELL YOU NEED A BATTERY BOX, SO WE WENT TO O'BRIEN'S TRUCKERS AND PICKED UP THESE BEND ALUMINUM BATTERY BOXES, WHICH

ARE MADE SPECIFICALLY FOR THESE OPTIMA BATTERIES.

NOW AS YOU CAN SEE, WHEN YOU PUT THE LID ON YOU HAVE ACCESS

TO THE SIDE POSTS THROUGH THESE HOLES, THEN YOU'VE GOT THESE

SPECIAL FITTINGS THAT JUST SCREW IN AND GIVE YOU

ACCESS TO THE BATTERY.

THE BENEFIT OF THIS IS IT KEEPS THE TOP, THE SIDES AND THE BACK

OF THE BATTERY BOX ALL NICE AND CLEAN WITH NO WIRING,

IT ALL JUST COMES OUT ONE SIDE.

OK, YOU'VE GOT YOUR BATTERIES, YOU'VE GOT YOUR BATTERY BOXES,

NOW HOW YOU GOING TO MAKE THEM ALL WORK TOGETHER.

WELL YOU CAN FREE HAND WIRE THIS, BUT A MUCH BETTER WAY TO

GO IS ONE OF THESE DUAL BATTERY KITS FROM PAINLESS PERFORMANCE.

NOW THIS KIT WILL ALLOW YOU TO RUN ON A SINGLE BATTERY WHEN

YOU'RE JUST TOOLING AROUND NORMALLY, BUT THEN WHEN YOU

NEED THAT EXTRA POWER TO START SOMETHING OR TO RUN A BIG

ACCESSORY, YOU FLIP THE SWITCH AND YOU BRING THE FIRE OF BOTH

BATTERIES INTO PLAY, AND IF YOU'RE GOING TO BE RUNNING DUAL

BATTERIES, YOU'VE GOT TO HAVE ONE OF THESE

KITS TO CONTROL THEM.

OK, WE'VE GOT OUR BATTERIES, WE'VE GOT OUR BOXES, WE'VE GOT

OUR WAY TO CONTROL THOSE BATTERIES, NOW WE JUST NEED TO

DECIDE WHERE WE'RE GOING TO MOUNT THOSE IN THE BED OF THAT

TRUCK, BECAUSE THERE'S NOT A LOT OF ROOM LEFT BACK THERE,

AND THE BEST PLACE FOR DUAL BATTERIES ON THIS TRUCK IS ON

EITHER SIDE OF THE FUEL TANK WITH OUR WIRING HIDDEN IN FRONT

AND DOWN TO THE FLOOR.

HEY WE'RE BACK AND ROLLING QUICKLY TOWARD THE COMPLETION

OF THE SERGEANT ROCK PROJECT.

NOW SO FAR TODAY WE'VE SHOWN YOU HOW TO BUILD CUSTOM

ALUMINUM DOOR PANELS AND KICK PANELS, AND THEN WE PUT IN

A CUSTOM STAINLESS STEEL GAS TANK AND A COUPLE OF BATTERIES.

NOW WE'RE GOING TO TURN OUR ATTENTION TO THE FRONT OF THE

TRUCK AND LAY OUT THE COOLING SYSTEM.

NOW PUTTING A RADIATOR OR A COOLING SYSTEM IN A PROJECT

LIKE THAT IS A LOT DIFFERENT THAN YOUR TYPICAL HOT ROD OR

RESTORATION PROJECT, BECAUSE WITH THESE YOU CAN USUALLY GO

THROUGH A CATALOG OR ON A WEBSITE AND ORDER A BRAND NEW

ALUMINUM RADIATOR THAT'S JUST GOING TO BOLT RIGHT IN PLACE.

HOWEVER, ON A PROJECT LIKE SERGEANT ROCK WHERE VIRTUALLY

EVERYTHING IS HAND MADE, WELL, YOU KNOW THE RADIATOR IS GOING

TO BE THE SAME DEAL, AND SINCE THERE'S A LOT OF PEOPLE THAT

ARE GETTING INTO THESE KIND OF PROJECTS, IT'S IMPORTANT THAT

WE SHOW YOU HOW TO SOLVE SOME OF THE ISSUES

THAT MIGHT COME UP.

ALL RIGHT, SINCE WE HAVE VERY LIMITED SPACE IN OUR GRILL

SHELL, IT'S IMPORTANT NOT ONLY THAT WE HAVE A RADIATOR THAT

FITS THE SHELL BUT ALSO HAS THE CAPACITY TO COOL 605 CUBIC

INCHES OF HOT MOPAR, AND OF COURSE HAVING AN ORIGINAL

RADIATOR TO START WITH IS ALWAYS A GOOD THING, BUT IF YOU

DON'T HAVE ONE, YOU'VE JUST GOT TO START FROM SCRATCH AND MAKE

SOME MEASUREMENTS.

BUT EVEN IF YOU DO HAVE AN ORIGINAL RADIATOR, YOU'RE GOING

TO HAVE TO MAKE SOME CHANGES, LIKE WHERE YOUR INLETS AND

OUTLETS ARE GOING TO BE, WHERE YOUR DRAIN PLUG IS GOING TO BE,

WHERE YOUR FILLER NECK IS GOING TO BE, ARE YOU GOING TO USE AIR

CONDITIONING, ARE YOU GOING TO USE OIL COOLERS, ARE THEY GOING

TO MOUNT IN FRONT OR BACK, WHAT KIND OF FAN ARE

YOU GOING TO USE?

ALL OF THIS NEEDS TO BE DECIDED AHEAD OF TIME.

NOW ONCE WE DID THAT, WE SENT THE ORIGINAL RADIATOR AND OUR

CHANGES TO CNR RACING AND HAD THEM BUILD US A CUSTOM ALUMINUM

RADIATOR, CHECK IT OUT.

AS YOU CAN SEE, THE DIMENSIONS ON THE CNR RADIATOR ARE PRETTY

SIMILAR TO THE ORIGINAL, BUT THE CORE IS MUCH THICKER TO

GIVE US THE COOLING CAPACITY THAT WE NEED.

WE ALSO HAD CNR WELD SOME MOUNTING TABS IN THE ORIGINAL

LOCATION TO HELP US MOUNT THE RADIATOR, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY

THE INLETS AND OUTLETS HAVE BEEN CHANGED SO THEY'RE

COMPATIBLE WITH A BIG BLOCK MOPAR.

ALL RIGHT, THE COOLING FAN IS NEXT, AND FOR THAT WE WENT TO

DURALI AND GOT ONE OF THEIR TWO SPEED ELECTRIC

FANS WITH THE ALUMINUM SHROUD.

NOW DURALI USES SOME HEAVY DUTY MOTORS ON THEIR FANS,

SO THIS IS PERFECT AS A PRIMARY COOLING

FAN AND THE UNIQUE SHAPE OF THE

BLADES SPAN TO PULL 2400 CMF OF AIR THROUGH THAT RADIATOR,

WHICH IS GOING TO BE GREAT.

NOW ONE OF THE MAIN CAUSES OF OVERHEATING IS NOT RUNNING

A SHROUD WITH A FAN, THAT'S WHY THESE DURALI UNITS

COME WITH THE ALUMINUM SHROUD.

IT FORCES THE FAN TO PULL MORE AIR THROUGH MORE OF

THE RADIATOR CORE AND GIVE YOU BETTER COOLING.

NOW TO CONTROL THIS FAN, WE'RE GOING TO USE THIS ELECTRIC FAN

CONTROLLER WHICH ADJUSTS THE SPEED OF THE FAN, DEPENDING ON

THE TEMPERATURE WE'VE SET, SO THE THING'S NOT JUST RUNNING

WIDE OPEN ALL THE TIME.

THE BRACKETS THAT COME WITH THE KIT MAKE IT VERY SIMPLE TO

MOUNT THE FAN TO THE RADIATOR.

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ALL RIGHT, NOW WE ARE READY TO FIT THE RADIATOR TO THE TRUCK

AND FORTUNATELY, THE GRILLS ON THESE OLD POWER WAGONS COME OFF

AS ONE BIG PCE, GIVING US GREAT ACCESS TO

THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK.

ONCE THE RADIATOR'S LOCKED IN PLACE WE'LL FINISH UP OUR

MOUNTING BRACKETS, AS WELL AS DECIDE WHAT WE'RE GOING TO DO

WITH THE HOSE INLETS AND OUTLETS, FILLER NECK

AND THE OVERFLOW CANISTER.

BE PREPARED TO SPEND SOME TIME HERE WORKING THROUGH ALL

OF THIS UNTIL YOU GET IT SET UP EXACTLY THE WAY YOU WANT IT.

TOOL TECH, BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING

ON METAL, OR WORKING ON A CAR FOR THAT MATTER, ONE ABILITY THAT YOU NEED TO HAVE IS THE ABILITY TO PUT

A HOLE IN A PCE OF METAL.

NOW WHEN PEOPLE THINK ABOUT HOLES IN METAL, THE FIRST TOOL THEY REACH FOR OF COURSE IS A DRILL, AND THAT'S A GREAT TOOL

FOR PUNCHING SMALL HOLES IN PANELS, BUT IF YOU NEED TO DO

BIGGER HOLES LIKE THIS, YOU'RE GOING TO BE PRETTY HARD PRESSED

TO FIND A DRILL THAT'S GOING TO POP THAT BIG A HOLE.

SO WHEN IT COMES TO BIG HOLES, THE FIRST TOOL PEOPLE THINK OF,

OF COURSE IS A HOLE SAW.

NOW THIS IS A GREAT TOOL.

THESE ARE DESIGNED TO CUT HOLES IN WOOD AND PLASTIC AND METAL

AND FIBER GLASS AND PRETTY MUCH EVERYTHING, WHICH MEANS IT'S

NOT THE BEST TOOL FOR CUTTING HOLES IN METAL, GENERALLY THE

HOLE IS PRETTY RAGGED, AND THE TEETH USUALLY MELT DOWN AFTER

JUST A FEW HOLES.

A BETTER HOLE, IF YOU'RE GOING TO CONTINUE TO USE A DRILL,

IS WHAT WE CALL THE FABRICATOR'S HOLE CUTTER.

NOW AS YOU CAN SEE, THIS IS DESIGNED COMPLETELY DIFFERENT

THAN A TYPICAL HOLE SAW.

THESE ARE ACTUALLY A METAL CUTTING TOOL, AND THEY ARE

DESIGNED WITH SPECIAL ALLOYS, SPECIAL BLADES, THAT WILL ALLOW

YOU TO MAKE HUNDREDS OF CUTS IN ALUMINUM, STAINLESS STEEL OR

STEEL THAT ARE EXTREMELY ACCURATE.

ANOTHER OPTION FOR MAKING HOLES IN METAL IS TO PUNCH THEM, AND

AN IRON WORKER IS AN AWESOME TOOL FOR PUNCHING PERFECT HOLES

IN HEAVIER STEEL OR ALUMINUM.

HOWEVER, IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE ROOM OR THE BUDGET FOR AN IRON

WORKER, THERE ARE MANUAL PUNCHES AVAILABLE TO HELP YOU

PUNCH HOLES, AT LEAST IN SHEET METAL.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO US JUST SELECT THE SIZE OF HOLE YOU

WANT, INSTALL THE PUNCH AND RATCHET IT DOWN.

THE RESULT IS A PERFECT HOLE WITH NO BURRS, NO DISTORTION.

SO AS YOU CAN SEE THERE IS A LOT OF DIFFERENT WAYS TO PUT

HOLES IN METAL, AND THE MORE YOU KNOW WHAT'S OUT THERE,

THE MORE YOU'RE GOING TO BE ABLE TO REACH FOR

THE RIGHT TOOL WHEN YOU NEED IT.

AND NOW PAINT TECH, BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

WHEN IT COMES TO

PAINT, MOST PEOPLE WANT IT TO LOOK GOOD, THAT'S WHY THEY'LL SPEND HOURS POLISHING AND BUFFING TO TRY

TO GET THAT ULTIMATE SHINE.

BUT TO GET THAT ULTIMATE FINISH, THAT USUALLY INVOLVES

SOME WET SANDING AND BUFFING WITH THE BUFFER.

THIS IS WHERE YOU CAN GET INTO TROUBLE IF YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL,

BECAUSE A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T REALIZE THAT EVEN THOUGH

THE PAINT LOOKS THE SAME ON THE SURFACE,

BENEATH THE SURFACE IT'S NOT THE SAME.

SINCE PAINT IS IN A LIQUID FORM WHEN IT'S SPRAYED ON, IT'LL

NATURALLY FLOW WITH GRAVITY, MEANING THAT THE AREAS WITH

A HIGH CROWN CURVE OR A CREASE WILL NATURALLY HAVE LESS PAINT

ON THEM THAN A LOW VALLEY WILL.

NOW THIS REALLY ISN'T AN ISSUE UNTIL YOU START WET SANDING AND

BUFFING YOUR PAINT, BECAUSE YOU'LL BURN THROUGH A BODY LINE

LIKE THIS IN A SECOND IF YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL.

SO A GOOD TRICK IS TO TAKE SOME MASKING TAPE AND TAPE IN ABOUT

A HALF INCH FROM THE BODY LINE, THEN MAKE SURE AND PUT SOME

TAPE ON THE BODY LINE ITSELF.

NOW WHAT THIS DOES IS GIVES YOU A NICE BOUNDARY TO STOP WITH

THE SAND PAPER OR THE BUFFER SO YOU DON'T' ACCIDENTALLY GET

INTO AN AREA THAT MIGHT HAVE THIN PAINT WITH SAND PAPER OR

A POWER TOOL.

THEN ONCE YOU'RE DONE, YOU PULL THE TAPE OFF, AND THEN YOU BUFF

THE BODY LINE BY HAND.

THIS WAY YOU DON'T REMOVE TOO MUCH PAINT, EVERYTHING WILL

LOOK GOOD, AND YOU'VE GOT A NICE LOOKING PAINT JOB.

AND NOW, WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON?

BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

TODAY'S WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON COMES FROM

ASHELY FROM COLORADO AND SHE IS A 4X4 NUT.

SHE SAYS FOR ABOUT THE LAST TEN YEARS, HER HUSBAND'S BEEN

TEACHING HER ALL THE INS AND OUTS OF BUILDING A HARD CORE

OFF ROAD RIG, SO SHE DECIDED SHE WAS READY FOR HER OWN

PROJECT, SO SHE PICKED UP THIS, A 1979 TOYOTA THAT WAS ON ITS

WAY TO THE JUNK YARD.

SHE GOT IT FOR $400, THAT'S AWESOME, AND SHE DECIDED SHE

WAS GOING TO BUILD A HARD CORE RIG OUT OF IT.

NOW TAKE A LOOK AT THIS, THEY BUILT A 3 LINK SUSPENSION FOR

THE FRONT AND A 4 LINK SUSPENSION FOR THE REAR,

SLAPPED ON KING COIL OVER SHOCKS AND 37 INCH TALL TIRES

TO GO WITH THE LOCKERS AND THE 529 GEARS AND THE TOYOTA AXELS.

GOT SOME GOOD NUMBERS HAPPENING HERE.

THEN A CHEVY 4.3 V6 REPLACED THE DEAD TOYOTA ENGINE,

AND THE INTERIOR WAS GUTTED AND FILLED WITH MASTER

CRAFT SUSPENSION SEATS AND A CUSTOM DASH AND GAGES.

NOW SINCE THE WHEEL BASE HAD BEEN STRETCHED ON THIS THING,

THE BED NEEDED TO BE STRETCHED TOO, SO LOOK AT THIS: THEY CUT

THE BED AND SECTIONED IT AND LENGTHENED IT SO THE WHEELS FIT

INTO THE WHEEL WELLS PROPERLY.

NOW YOU MIGHT BE THINKING: WHY GO THROUGH THE TROUBLE OF THAT?

WELL TAKE A LOOK AT THIS: BECAUSE ASHLEY WANTED THE TIRES

TO TUCK INTO THE WHEEL WELLS WHEN SHE HAD THIS THING IN FULL

ARTICULATION, AND AS YOU GUESSED,

SHE WHEELS THIS THING HARD.

ASHELY, WHAT A COOL PROJECT, AND I REALLY LIKE THE FACT THAT

YOU DID MOST OF THE WORK YOURSELF, SO TO RECOGNIZE THAT,

WE HOOKED UP WITH OUR BUDDIES AT CARRERA, AND THEY'RE GOING

TO HOOK SET YOU UP WITH ONE OF THEIR FAST CLASSICS DIGITAL

RACE CAR SETS, SO THE TIMES THAT YOUR HUSBAND AND YOU CAN'T

GO OUT AND WHEEL, YOU CAN RACE EACH OTHER.

ALSO, WE'RE GOING TO HOOK YOU UP WITH ONE OF OUR SERGEANT

ROCK PACKAGES, ONE OF THE DIE CASTS, ONE OF THE SHIRTS,

ONE OF THE BRASS GUITAR PICKS AND WE'RE GOING TO SET

YOU UP WITH AN O'REILLY'S GIFT CARD TO HELP YOU OUT

WHEN YOU NEED SOME PARTS.

AND FINALLY, WE'RE GOING TO SET YOU UP WITH ONE OF OUR PROJECT

PLANNING BOOKS SO YOU CAN DOCUMENT EVERYTHING THAT YOU

DID TO THAT PROJECT.

NOW THE REST OF YOU GUYS, IF YOU WANT TO GET YOUR PROJECT

FEATURED ON THE SHOW, YOU'VE GOT TO GO TO THE WEBSITE, GO TO

GEARZ NATION AND SUBMIT THE PROJECT.

ALSO, MAKE SURE YOU CHECK US OUT ON SOCIAL MEDIA BECAUSE WE

ALWAYS HAVE COOL STUFF GOING ON THERE TOO.

ALL RIGHT, THAT TAKES CARE OF it TODAY,

WE WILL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.

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