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Subtitles by explosiveskull
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Our next guest is a free soloing
phenomenon, please welcome Alex Honnold.
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Here is what I
don't understand.
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One little mistake, one little
slip, and you fall and die.
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Yeah, I mean, uh, you
seem to understand it well...
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- Yeah.
- Yeah.
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And I feel like anybody could
conceivably die on any given day.
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Soloing makes it feel far more
immediate and much more present.
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Does it feel different
to be up there without a rope?
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When you're climbing without
a rope, it's obviously like
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much higher consequence, much,
much higher level of focus.
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You know, it's a whole
different experience.
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So it's not like I'm just
pushing and pushing and pushing
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until something
terrible happens.
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I don't look at it, like,
with that perspective.
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But maybe that's why
it's dangerous for me.
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Maybe I'm too close to it and I can't
tell that I'm speeding towards a cliff.
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Okay.
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I like to differentiate
between risk and consequence.
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You know, when I'm doing these hard free
solos I like to think that the risk,
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you know, the chance
of me falling off is
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quite low even though the
consequence is extremely high.
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And that's kind of like one of the
appeals of free soloing, you know,
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to take something that seems difficult
and dangerous and make it feel safe.
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So, do you think that, uh, being a rock
climber has been a positive or negative
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for your dating life?
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My dating life?
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Yeah.
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I think, uh, I think
overall it's been a negative.
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Um, I just travel too
much and I live in a car.
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Let's talk through some of
the climbing adventures you've had.
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The historic free solo
climb, Moonlight Buttress.
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When I did it, it was like,
"Oh," you know, kind of groundbreaking,
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kind of extreme.
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But for me it always felt
quite easy and pretty secure.
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Well, that wasn't where you
stopped, because that next challenge then
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was free soloing Half Dome.
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Half Dome was a huge step for me
because it was twice as big as anything
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I'd ever soloed.
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Free soloing is so
dangerous that less than 1% of people
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who climb attempt it.
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Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo
climbs, but none were tougher than this one.
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I got quite scared in some places,
and then you start to panic a little bit.
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And then you have to,
like, reel it all back in.
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What is next in
free solo climbing?
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Well, I don't know, I mean,
I've thought about El Cap, like,
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for years and every
year I look at it and I'm like,
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"That's really scary."
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Um, well, I've never even wanted to
really, or I've always wanted to but then
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I've always been like,
"That's too scary."
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I'm aiming towards the most
beautiful valley on earth.
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I remember coming to Yosemite as a little
kid and my dad would always have a little
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cooler in the back of the car, and
have our cookies in the cold milk,
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and we'd sit on these slabs above
Tunnel View, which is, like,
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the most epic
view of Yosemite.
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As soon as you see El Cap it's like,
"Oh, there it is, pretty exciting."
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El Cap is the most
impressive wall on earth.
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Yeah, I mean I love,
I love being in the van.
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I probably feel extra comfortable
in the van now because I've lived
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in it for nine years.
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My first van, well, I actually
stole the family minivan.
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My dad died when I was
19 and I, I quit school.
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There was some life insurance.
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I had just enough to dirt bag.
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Six years ago I was living in a Walmart
parking lot and spending eighty-eight cents
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on dinner every night.
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Living in a van is great but, you know,
at a certain point it'd be nice to have a
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bathroom and have,
like, a shower at least.
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So you have a
girlfriend now, I heard.
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- Hmm, trending towards one.
- Trending towards?
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Hmm, I mean, she's very supportive
about, like, you know, you have to do you.
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Yeah we'll, we'll see.
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But yeah, there probably will be
plenty of girlfriends in my life,
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you know, in terms of,
like, big climbing,
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lifetime achievement deals,
where you're just like, well,
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like I will always choose
climbing, over, over a lady.
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At least, you know, so far.
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How many times have
you climbed El Cap?
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Probably like 40
something maybe.
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- You ever free solo? -No and nobody has.
- Why haven't you done it yet?
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Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know,
think about it, it's freaking scary.
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I don't know, so I mean I've thought about
this since 2009, like, each year since 2009,
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I've been like, "This is the year,"
and each year I climb it and I'm like,
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"This isn't the year, like,
this is fucked," you know.
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So I'm like, "Uh." But the
thing is I'll never be content,
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unless I at least
put in the effort.
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Because, like, if I do all the work and
I'm still like, "This is messed up,"
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then maybe it's just not for me,
maybe its future generation, you know.
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Or maybe just somebody who
has nothing to live for.
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When I thought about El Cap years ago, there
were question marks all over the walls.
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It's like I don't know about this
pitch, I don't know about that pitch,
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like I don't know about this particular
slab, there are all these things that
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seem pretty crazy to me.
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If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap,
then I need a good map of what that will
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take, you know, like a, a mental image of
what the hard parts are, where they are,
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what they will entail.
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If I'm going to do it, Free
Rider seems like the best route.
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Oh, hi.
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What's up, dude?
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Oh, hey.
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Oh, actually, I might as well just
rack it straight onto my harness.
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So, do you wanna lead
the Freeblast or do I?
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I feel like we should do what we did
before which would be you lead the, yeah,
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you lead the Freeblast.
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So, basically I'll just try
to take it, like, as far as I can.
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Yeah.
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So Tommy just got here
and they're going up Freerider.
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Okay.
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I'm just gonna try to shoot this
pitch and the traverse pitch and then
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I'm gonna jug out
like a maniac.
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Okay.
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Do we have enough line
up there to do all this?
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- Yeah.
- Okay.
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The idea of going up
on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell
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is to get a feel for the
route and just visualize it.
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To see what feels
scary and what doesn't.
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Oh, God.
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Look at those fixed ropes
the first climb.
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Tommy's been a hero
of mine since I was a kid.
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I didn't technically have posters
of him up in my room as a kid,
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but it was like the same deal, you know,
where I was like, "Tommy's the man."
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Tommy really showed what was
possible, free climbing on El Cap.
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Tommy is the one that explored
every aspect of the wall.
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And most of the routes that he's put up on El
Cap haven't been repeated because they're,
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they're basically too hard.
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And then, ultimately culminated
with the Dawn Wall which was his
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multi-year project.
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I mean possibly the hardest
big wall in the world.
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I've been obsessed
with El Cap for years.
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El Capitan is unbelievably
huge, kind of unfathomably huge.
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It's 3,200 feet
of sheer granite.
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Looking at it, it doesn't seem
right, it doesn't seem like you
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should be able to climb it.
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I understand why
Alex is obsessed.
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El Cap has obsessed
generations of climbers.
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I think it was first climbed in 1958 by
Warren Harding, and it took them 46 days
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over 16 months because they
couldn't do it continuously.
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They had to drill bolts into the
granite and pull themselves up.
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And then ever since then, it's been the
center of the rock climbing universe.
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I've spent 20 years of my life climbing
El Cap but I'd never do it without a rope.
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There's no margin for error.
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Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic
achievement, that if you don't get that
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gold medal you're gonna die.
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That's pretty much what
free soloing El Cap is like.
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You have to do it perfectly.
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Today I am playing through
a lot of different scenarios,
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so thinking about the moves,
thinking about the body position,
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and more than anything just thinking
about what it would feel like to,
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to be in that position
without a rope.
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There are a lot of things that
you can physically do on a rope.
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Oh, God.
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00:11:57,074 --> 00:11:59,274
But then the idea of taking the
rope away, you're just like,
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"I don't know if I'd wanna trust
that little foothold. Oh, my God,
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my feet hurt so bad and I'm
so pumped and my hand hurts.
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I just feel pooped.
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We're kind of getting worked.
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When you've been thinking about something
for years, that's a long time to be,
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like, sort of considering an idea without,
like, really talking to anybody about it.
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00:12:18,627 --> 00:12:21,866
Especially someone like Tommy.
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When I was climbing, like, up the
endurance corner and across the traverse,
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I was just looking down thinking about,
I was like, "Dude, this seems so scary."
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I don't know.
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That part is just
so exposed and it's pretty.
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See, that part again is like, at
least you have holds though, you know.
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00:12:33,410 --> 00:12:34,742
Yeah.
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00:12:34,744 --> 00:12:37,946
The Freeblast slabs have
like several moves where it's like,
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your whole life just depends
on one foothold, you know.
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Soloing is like such a
weird personal activity.
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00:12:43,320 --> 00:12:45,252
You never talk about
soloing projects.
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I mean, I've done all my
soloing without telling anybody,
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because I don't want
any extra pressure.
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The idea of climbing El Cap, obviously I
get interview questions about it all the
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time, like, "Oh, would
you like to do that?"
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And I've always been like,
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"No, well maybe, we'll see.
You know, who knows?"
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00:13:01,238 --> 00:13:04,275
But like in the back of your mind
you're like, "Yes, for sure."
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00:13:13,182 --> 00:13:16,183
I used to be like
a super picky eater.
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When I was like 19 or 20 or, well, between like,
20 and 24, I basically decided that I had
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to start eating vegetables, and then
sort of, like, systematically introduced
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00:13:25,195 --> 00:13:29,367
myself to vegetables, like one at
a time, which worked pretty well,
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00:13:30,733 --> 00:13:32,936
now I pretty much
eat anything.
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00:13:37,907 --> 00:13:41,076
I stopped eating meat maybe
three or four years ago, um,
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00:13:41,078 --> 00:13:43,178
mostly for
environmental reasons.
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00:13:43,180 --> 00:13:46,751
Then once I stopped I also kind of got
into the ethics of it a little bit more.
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We'll just see how
this comes out.
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00:13:54,123 --> 00:13:56,725
Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks who
probably think that this is, like, terrible.
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00:13:56,727 --> 00:14:00,231
I'm eating, like,
canned chili and eggs.
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00:14:02,998 --> 00:14:05,332
Growing up, I mean, I didn't
like eating weird foods,
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00:14:05,334 --> 00:14:09,069
I didn't like bugs, you know,
I was just like a total tweeker.
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00:14:09,071 --> 00:14:11,941
I guess I was
quite a shy child.
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00:14:12,843 --> 00:14:14,943
Bit of a dark soul, I think.
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00:14:14,945 --> 00:14:17,681
Maybe melancholic is the word.
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00:14:18,015 --> 00:14:22,817
I remember really liking to play with
my Legos and play computer games and,
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00:14:22,819 --> 00:14:25,819
uh, and then obviously once I started
rock climbing I was going to the
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00:14:25,821 --> 00:14:27,755
climbing gym all the time.
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00:14:27,757 --> 00:14:31,326
But I didn't really have a whole
lot of hobbies or interests.
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00:14:31,328 --> 00:14:33,995
I definitely wasn't
cool, you know.
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00:14:33,997 --> 00:14:36,765
I grew up in Sacramento and the
high school I went to, I was, uh,
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00:14:36,767 --> 00:14:39,867
in an international baccalaureate
program, so we were all sort of
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00:14:39,869 --> 00:14:42,069
the intellectual kids.
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00:14:42,071 --> 00:14:45,372
So, in a way it was fine to be sort
of a dorky loner cause, you know,
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00:14:45,374 --> 00:14:48,311
the whole program was
focused around that.
203
00:14:49,112 --> 00:14:52,313
There was definitely a time when I started
climbing outside more and I was just
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00:14:52,315 --> 00:14:54,414
starting to road trip
and go to campgrounds,
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00:14:54,416 --> 00:14:57,018
but I was too afraid
to talk to strangers.
206
00:14:57,020 --> 00:15:00,154
So, I was doing a lot of soloing, or
just a lot of climbing by myself just
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00:15:00,156 --> 00:15:03,493
because I didn't know anybody and
I didn't wanna talk to anybody.
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00:15:04,895 --> 00:15:07,364
It's freaking good,
I've outdone myself.
209
00:15:10,934 --> 00:15:13,738
Spicy chili really
adds something.
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00:15:20,176 --> 00:15:23,044
As a kid I just love climbing trees
and climbing buildings and, like,
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00:15:23,046 --> 00:15:24,846
playing on things.
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00:15:24,848 --> 00:15:27,627
And when I was going to school here I was also
climbing on all the roofs and stuff here.
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00:15:27,651 --> 00:15:29,818
Uh, and, uh, yeah.
214
00:15:29,820 --> 00:15:32,153
It's actually kind of intimidating
talking to groups of kids.
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00:15:32,155 --> 00:15:35,088
Like, when I was in high school
I was mortified of standing in
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00:15:35,090 --> 00:15:36,557
front of the class.
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00:15:36,559 --> 00:15:38,458
But, like, you kind of get through
it and, like, eventually you feel
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00:15:38,460 --> 00:15:39,894
more and more comfortable.
219
00:15:39,896 --> 00:15:41,162
I don't know.
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00:15:41,164 --> 00:15:42,963
- There's a question.
- Um, yeah.
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00:15:42,965 --> 00:15:45,199
How do you feel about being
famous, just for, like,
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00:15:45,201 --> 00:15:46,802
turning your hobby
into your career?
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00:15:46,804 --> 00:15:49,938
I mean, I think it's the best thing in
life to be able to take the one thing
224
00:15:49,940 --> 00:15:53,073
you love most and have it, like, work
out that you can make a living that way.
225
00:15:53,075 --> 00:15:55,309
You know, so it's nice that I
now get paid to do that, yeah.
226
00:15:55,311 --> 00:15:57,514
How much money do you have?
227
00:16:00,050 --> 00:16:03,286
I've got, I've got, I've got probably
like 40 bucks in my wallet, you know.
228
00:16:03,987 --> 00:16:06,087
Um, but no, like,
a, a fair amount.
229
00:16:06,089 --> 00:16:11,292
Um, like, like, you know, say, like,
a moderately successful dentist
230
00:16:11,294 --> 00:16:13,464
or something, probably.
231
00:16:13,729 --> 00:16:15,362
Mr. K?
232
00:16:15,364 --> 00:16:18,098
Alex, could you talk about your
foundation a bit and what you're doing?
233
00:16:18,100 --> 00:16:21,504
Yeah, so, I started a non-profit,
um, I guess maybe four years ago.
234
00:16:21,872 --> 00:16:25,192
Let's watch this piece of video
so you're gonna get a little taste of that.
235
00:16:26,877 --> 00:16:30,410
Climbing has allowed me to travel all
over the world, which has really opened my
236
00:16:30,412 --> 00:16:32,582
eyes to how the rest
of the world lives.
237
00:16:33,282 --> 00:16:36,049
I mean, I see all these people, I mean
they're like a billion people on Earth
238
00:16:36,051 --> 00:16:37,418
without access to power.
239
00:16:37,420 --> 00:16:39,553
And so I started my foundation
sort of as an attempt to, like,
240
00:16:39,555 --> 00:16:41,155
balance the cosmic scales.
241
00:16:41,157 --> 00:16:45,058
So, I've been giving, maybe, like, a
third of my income every year through the
242
00:16:45,060 --> 00:16:47,061
foundation to, like,
environmental non-profits.
243
00:16:47,063 --> 00:16:49,230
I mean, so, like off-grid solar
projects, things like that, like,
244
00:16:49,232 --> 00:16:52,502
things that lift people out of
poverty, but also help the Earth.
245
00:17:07,517 --> 00:17:09,249
Ah, you get out.
246
00:17:09,251 --> 00:17:11,855
- Oh, hi.
- Hi.
247
00:17:15,557 --> 00:17:18,094
I met Sanni, book
touring in Seattle.
248
00:17:18,661 --> 00:17:22,132
And then we just have been
hanging out ever since.
249
00:17:22,332 --> 00:17:25,300
I think, I think this is our very first date
in Las Vegas, and I think we're climbing,
250
00:17:25,302 --> 00:17:27,401
like, a very easy
multi-pitch together.
251
00:17:27,403 --> 00:17:30,438
Um, you know I just took her up
this big tall route because then,
252
00:17:30,440 --> 00:17:32,674
I kind of knew it
would blow her mind.
253
00:17:32,676 --> 00:17:33,675
Is she a climber?
254
00:17:33,677 --> 00:17:36,945
Um, Sanni's like a
little bit of a climber.
255
00:17:36,947 --> 00:17:41,252
She, she's just starting but I'd
hardly characterize her as a climber.
256
00:17:42,553 --> 00:17:45,719
You see straight in front of us, there's
like an depression that looks like a heart.
257
00:17:45,721 --> 00:17:46,655
Yeah.
258
00:17:46,657 --> 00:17:49,157
To the left of that,
that's Freerider.
259
00:17:49,159 --> 00:17:51,692
This is like the whole valley,
like, we're driving in this highway.
260
00:17:51,694 --> 00:17:52,995
Uh-hmm.
261
00:17:52,997 --> 00:17:54,129
And then this is, like, the
valley loop from here to here,
262
00:17:54,131 --> 00:17:56,464
the main rocks are all,
like, between here and here.
263
00:17:56,466 --> 00:17:59,603
Okay, oh, maybe
I should read this.
264
00:18:00,437 --> 00:18:02,573
No.
265
00:18:02,805 --> 00:18:06,209
Alex was giving a talk in
Seattle, in December last year.
266
00:18:06,442 --> 00:18:09,343
I didn't know anything
about him and I showed up.
267
00:18:09,345 --> 00:18:11,446
Wait, you're wearing the same
shirt in half these photos.
268
00:18:11,448 --> 00:18:12,612
I know.
269
00:18:12,614 --> 00:18:14,114
Oh, Alex.
270
00:18:14,116 --> 00:18:16,383
Well, because I don't have
anybody to help me with my wardrobe.
271
00:18:16,385 --> 00:18:20,623
Oh and then, when I got my
book signed, I gave him my number.
272
00:18:24,160 --> 00:18:27,430
Which was sort of a joke with
a friend but then evolved.
273
00:18:28,265 --> 00:18:33,167
I just thought he was really
cute but also brutally honest,
274
00:18:33,169 --> 00:18:35,335
but I'm really drawn to that.
275
00:18:35,337 --> 00:18:37,705
Whoa, look how
precariously balanced it is.
276
00:18:37,707 --> 00:18:40,207
But he's also just
a funny guy, he's weird.
277
00:18:40,209 --> 00:18:43,279
You know, a weird dude,
and I find it interesting.
278
00:18:43,880 --> 00:18:45,646
Oh, we tree
pose on the tree?
279
00:18:45,648 --> 00:18:46,846
It's not wobbling.
280
00:18:46,848 --> 00:18:49,417
It's totally wobbling,
what are you talking about.
281
00:18:49,419 --> 00:18:51,552
Just for you.
282
00:18:51,554 --> 00:18:54,557
- I'm waiting. ALEX: Oh.
- Okay.
283
00:18:59,228 --> 00:19:00,695
When you start
getting eaten by mosquitoes,
284
00:19:00,697 --> 00:19:02,397
feel free to
just start climbing.
285
00:19:02,399 --> 00:19:04,465
Just keep the Grigri on.
286
00:19:04,467 --> 00:19:06,234
I'll wait.
287
00:19:06,236 --> 00:19:08,738
Okay, whatever
you're comfy with.
288
00:19:11,274 --> 00:19:13,373
Having the girlfriend
in the van is awesome.
289
00:19:13,375 --> 00:19:17,245
I mean, she's cute and small and,
like, livens the place up a bit,
290
00:19:17,247 --> 00:19:19,580
doesn't take up too much room.
291
00:19:19,582 --> 00:19:23,187
I mean, it's, pretty much
makes life better in every way.
292
00:19:25,321 --> 00:19:28,225
Alex, you got me tight?
293
00:19:30,427 --> 00:19:33,230
This is nerve-racking.
294
00:19:40,836 --> 00:19:46,541
When I was lowering Alex, I was watching him
come down the final section and the rope
295
00:19:46,543 --> 00:19:48,409
went right through the
Grigri, right through my hands,
296
00:19:48,411 --> 00:19:51,446
and right through the Grigri
and he dropped to the ground.
297
00:19:51,448 --> 00:19:53,784
It was my fault that I didn't
watch the end of the rope.
298
00:19:54,718 --> 00:19:58,287
It was just like, "Oh, my
gosh, what have I done?"
299
00:19:59,889 --> 00:20:02,723
The x-ray didn't show much, but
then they took the CAT scan and then they
300
00:20:02,725 --> 00:20:04,659
said it was, like, two
compression fractures and.
301
00:20:04,661 --> 00:20:06,794
But they only focused on
they didn't focus on the lower.
302
00:20:06,796 --> 00:20:10,734
Right after it happened
I wanted to break up with her.
303
00:20:10,933 --> 00:20:15,102
I was like, "Oh, this is bad
for my climbing." But she said,
304
00:20:15,104 --> 00:20:17,505
"Is that really gonna
make your life any better?"
305
00:20:17,507 --> 00:20:20,108
I was like,
"No, probably not."
306
00:20:20,110 --> 00:20:23,647
This is gonna feel a
little uncomfortable.
307
00:20:24,080 --> 00:20:25,479
I said, you know,
308
00:20:25,481 --> 00:20:28,582
"I think we can move past this
and I think you could have it all.
309
00:20:28,584 --> 00:20:32,523
I think that you could have a
steady girlfriend and climb."
310
00:20:33,422 --> 00:20:35,590
Exhale.
311
00:20:35,592 --> 00:20:38,626
As it turns out, compression
fracture isn't too serious.
312
00:20:38,628 --> 00:20:41,496
They said that I could climb and just
be careful about pain management and
313
00:20:41,498 --> 00:20:44,468
all that stuff.
314
00:20:44,668 --> 00:20:47,502
But it's just a
little bit rattling.
315
00:20:47,504 --> 00:20:50,537
Because I definitely know some people who
have fallen super far and survived or,
316
00:20:50,539 --> 00:20:53,207
like, gone through a tree
and sort of been okay.
317
00:20:53,209 --> 00:20:56,878
And now I'm like, "I don't know,
like, I don't think I'd be okay."
318
00:20:56,880 --> 00:21:00,547
And so I imagine falling free soloing
or something from 50 meters up, I mean,
319
00:21:00,549 --> 00:21:03,319
I realize that my body would
just explode on impact.
320
00:21:20,436 --> 00:21:23,603
In 2012, I was here for the first
time and it was right before I went to
321
00:21:23,605 --> 00:21:27,443
Yosemite for the season, and that was
like my best Yosemite season ever.
322
00:21:39,322 --> 00:21:40,854
What was that, Alex?
323
00:21:40,856 --> 00:21:42,857
I said you just passed halfway
and, uh, the rope's actually looking
324
00:21:42,859 --> 00:21:45,662
pretty good now.
325
00:21:46,696 --> 00:21:49,630
Yeah, pretty nice rock.
326
00:21:49,632 --> 00:21:53,137
I think the climbing here in Morocco,
it's good training for El Cap.
327
00:21:54,872 --> 00:21:58,438
It's gonna make him strong, it's gonna get
him good at moving through the mountains,
328
00:21:58,440 --> 00:22:01,377
it's gonna make him feel fit.
329
00:22:07,283 --> 00:22:11,655
Flowing through the mountains in the
ways that you do with Alex is addicting.
330
00:22:15,325 --> 00:22:19,729
His attitude towards risk, it
makes you feel kind of invincible,
331
00:22:23,932 --> 00:22:29,573
which is emotionally appealing, but for
me I don't think it's the smartest thing.
332
00:22:33,242 --> 00:22:34,742
Ah!
333
00:22:34,744 --> 00:22:38,382
Climbing with Alex is,
it's like a vice in a way.
334
00:22:39,449 --> 00:22:42,617
It's like smoking cigarettes
with beer or something.
335
00:22:42,619 --> 00:22:45,785
It's like, I don't really wanna do it but
I just, like, let myself do it sometimes
336
00:22:45,787 --> 00:22:46,987
because it's kinda nice.
337
00:22:46,989 --> 00:22:50,493
- Yeah, buddy!
- Yo!
338
00:22:56,431 --> 00:22:59,399
Can you read me your
journal entry for today?
339
00:22:59,401 --> 00:23:02,905
It says, "Bey wall 7C+, one fallen
crux, two pumped, need more fitness."
340
00:23:05,708 --> 00:23:09,610
Do you ever put things like "Saw
the biggest juniper tree of my life"?
341
00:23:09,612 --> 00:23:11,845
No, not in the
climbing journal.
342
00:23:11,847 --> 00:23:15,416
- Miss my dog.
- No.
343
00:23:15,418 --> 00:23:17,450
- And my mom.
- I don't know, none?
344
00:23:17,452 --> 00:23:19,956
- No, no.
- No. -All right.
345
00:23:32,401 --> 00:23:36,670
Alright, Jim's gonna follow you guys down
partway, Clair's gonna pick you guys up at
346
00:23:36,672 --> 00:23:38,605
the bottom of the gully
going into the base.
347
00:23:38,607 --> 00:23:40,041
Okay.
348
00:23:40,043 --> 00:23:42,575
And then we'll be
shooting on the wall.
349
00:23:42,577 --> 00:23:45,679
So, once we pass you guys, you guys
wrap and then hike to the summit basically?
350
00:23:45,681 --> 00:23:46,814
Yeah.
351
00:23:46,816 --> 00:23:49,550
Jimmy and I have
worked together for 10 years.
352
00:23:49,552 --> 00:23:51,552
We've climbed all
over the world.
353
00:23:51,554 --> 00:23:53,621
We are doing the
triple link up too, right?
354
00:23:53,623 --> 00:23:55,689
I mean, by the time we
get to Yosemite we're gonna be
355
00:23:55,691 --> 00:23:57,995
as Cheyne says, "Yoked."
356
00:24:01,764 --> 00:24:04,799
The team that Jimmy assembled
are all professional climbers.
357
00:24:04,801 --> 00:24:07,504
The best possible crew
for this kind of thing.
358
00:24:07,804 --> 00:24:09,736
And so in a way, I'm like, "This
is kinda awesome." You know,
359
00:24:09,738 --> 00:24:13,276
it's kind of just like I get to
go climb with all my friends.
360
00:24:17,080 --> 00:24:20,715
Mikey, we should put someone right here
because if you lean out you can see the
361
00:24:20,717 --> 00:24:22,582
entire freaking route.
362
00:24:22,584 --> 00:24:25,018
Then let's just put the 100
meter there and the 400 footer here.
363
00:24:25,020 --> 00:24:26,922
Doubled up.
364
00:24:27,323 --> 00:24:32,595
I've known Alex since he pretty much
started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009.
365
00:24:33,395 --> 00:24:38,032
I've filmed Alex a handful
of times, free soloing.
366
00:24:38,034 --> 00:24:41,502
And then we've also spent a couple of
winters together down in South America.
367
00:24:41,504 --> 00:24:44,071
So, uh, we, the
time's added up.
368
00:24:44,073 --> 00:24:46,506
Uh, I spend a lot of
time with him now.
369
00:24:46,508 --> 00:24:50,678
So, I'm scared because I don't
wanna see anything happen to Alex.
370
00:24:50,680 --> 00:24:53,447
I mean, it's one of the reasons that I
almost said no to this job, and, I mean,
371
00:24:53,449 --> 00:24:55,749
I think Jimmy went through
the same stuff of being like,
372
00:24:55,751 --> 00:24:58,421
"Do we really wanna
be part of this?"
373
00:24:59,756 --> 00:25:02,622
I've always been conflicted
about shooting a film about free soloing
374
00:25:02,624 --> 00:25:05,926
just because it's so dangerous.
375
00:25:05,928 --> 00:25:11,131
It's hard to not imagine, your friend,
Alex, soloing something that's extremely
376
00:25:11,133 --> 00:25:15,572
dangerous and you're making a film about
it, which might put undue pressure on him
377
00:25:16,072 --> 00:25:19,943
to do something, and him falling
through the frame to his death.
378
00:25:24,680 --> 00:25:30,884
And we have to work through that and understand
that what we're doing is something that
379
00:25:30,886 --> 00:25:33,089
we can live with even in
a worst-case scenario.
380
00:25:40,430 --> 00:25:43,531
It's a funny thing, people who know
a little bit about climbing, they're like,
381
00:25:43,533 --> 00:25:46,633
"Oh, he says he has it,
he's, he's totally safe."
382
00:25:46,635 --> 00:25:51,107
And then people who really know exactly
what he's doing are freaked out.
383
00:25:51,475 --> 00:25:54,475
My dad was always like, "I don't
want you to go ice climbing.
384
00:25:54,477 --> 00:25:57,514
I don't want you to
free solo," you know.
385
00:25:57,947 --> 00:25:59,412
Just not, I wonder
if your dad had been like.
386
00:25:59,414 --> 00:26:02,716
When he was my age, he had
had like 20 or 30 friends that had
387
00:26:02,718 --> 00:26:04,150
died in the mountains.
388
00:26:04,152 --> 00:26:06,754
And now I'm at that point where
I've had, you know, 30 or 40 friends
389
00:26:06,756 --> 00:26:08,488
that have died
in the mountains.
390
00:26:08,490 --> 00:26:10,024
That many?
391
00:26:10,026 --> 00:26:11,624
Yeah, I counted
them a while ago.
392
00:26:11,626 --> 00:26:13,192
I mean, like not friends
but people in our community.
393
00:26:13,194 --> 00:26:16,596
Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally,
like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently.
394
00:26:16,598 --> 00:26:18,899
People that I have
met, yeah, I'm like, no, yeah.
395
00:26:18,901 --> 00:26:21,735
I haven't had anybody die who I was,
like, really, really, close to yet.
396
00:26:21,737 --> 00:26:25,409
Uh-hmm. Uh-hmm.
I don't know.
397
00:26:25,941 --> 00:26:30,777
I think everybody who has made
free soloing a big part of their life,
398
00:26:30,779 --> 00:26:32,815
is dead now.
399
00:26:33,615 --> 00:26:37,019
John Bachar was a
pioneer of so-called free solo climbing,
400
00:26:37,386 --> 00:26:41,721
he fell to his death this past
week at the age of 52 from a cliff.
401
00:26:41,723 --> 00:26:43,791
And we're sorry
to have to report on the death of
402
00:26:43,793 --> 00:26:46,126
U.S. Climber Sean Leary.
403
00:26:46,128 --> 00:26:49,263
Sean was killed in Utah and
was found a couple of days ago.
404
00:26:49,265 --> 00:26:51,966
Derek Hersey
was climbing in Yosemite Valley.
405
00:26:51,968 --> 00:26:54,504
His body was found
Saturday morning.
406
00:26:54,836 --> 00:26:58,138
Hersey climbed, as usual,
alone without ropes.
407
00:26:58,140 --> 00:27:00,140
Most people that
are pushing the limits,
408
00:27:00,142 --> 00:27:04,613
they have this mentality of "Screw
it, whatever happens, happens."
409
00:27:27,569 --> 00:27:31,173
I think all the soloing he's
done has trained his mind.
410
00:27:31,407 --> 00:27:35,779
He doesn't get emotionally affected
by it the way that a lot of people do.
411
00:27:36,546 --> 00:27:39,313
And not knowing about the science
of that is that's probably a product
412
00:27:39,315 --> 00:27:43,219
of your past more than
it is just a genetic thing.
413
00:27:46,087 --> 00:27:49,023
There's been a lot of speculation
about, like, how I deal with fear and,
414
00:27:49,025 --> 00:27:51,190
like, how I'm
able to free solo.
415
00:27:51,192 --> 00:27:54,027
People are just like, "Oh, well,
he must be a thrill seeker.
416
00:27:54,029 --> 00:27:56,732
There must be
something defective."
417
00:27:59,936 --> 00:28:01,302
So when a writer
contacted me about doing an
418
00:28:01,304 --> 00:28:05,738
MRI, I thought it's kind of cool
just to go and get an MRI and, like,
419
00:28:05,740 --> 00:28:07,240
see what's actually going on.
420
00:28:07,242 --> 00:28:10,679
You know, scan your brain and then
see if it's all there structurally.
421
00:28:13,716 --> 00:28:15,315
We're gonna
start the task now.
422
00:28:15,317 --> 00:28:19,152
Remember to press the button every time
you see a new picture come up, okay?
423
00:28:19,154 --> 00:28:21,023
Okay.
424
00:28:23,625 --> 00:28:26,826
We'll see maybe it turns out I'm some
kind of freak creature or something.
425
00:28:26,828 --> 00:28:29,196
I've had several ex-girlfriends
said that I have personality
426
00:28:29,198 --> 00:28:31,130
disorders or things like that.
427
00:28:31,132 --> 00:28:32,932
That there's something
wrong with me.
428
00:28:32,934 --> 00:28:35,034
Emotionally stable?
429
00:28:35,036 --> 00:28:36,336
Agree.
430
00:28:36,338 --> 00:28:38,839
Ingenious, a deep thinker?
431
00:28:38,841 --> 00:28:40,674
Disagree.
432
00:28:40,676 --> 00:28:42,075
Tends to find
fault with others?
433
00:28:42,077 --> 00:28:43,877
Agree somewhat.
434
00:28:43,879 --> 00:28:46,647
Climbing a steep mountain
would be too scary for me?
435
00:28:46,649 --> 00:28:48,815
I have trouble
controlling my impulses?
436
00:28:48,817 --> 00:28:51,884
Is depressed?
437
00:28:51,886 --> 00:28:55,090
Hmm.
438
00:28:55,658 --> 00:28:57,690
Is my, is my brain intact?
439
00:28:57,692 --> 00:29:00,226
Your brain's intact and
it's, it's quite interesting.
440
00:29:00,228 --> 00:29:04,130
Those little two dots that are
further towards the top of the screen,
441
00:29:04,132 --> 00:29:06,670
that's the amygdala.
442
00:29:08,103 --> 00:29:13,306
So an interesting thing, do you
have no activation in your amygdala?
443
00:29:13,308 --> 00:29:16,211
There's just not much
going on in my brain, it seems.
444
00:29:17,112 --> 00:29:20,714
Um, do you think my amygdala actually
just doesn't work or something?
445
00:29:20,716 --> 00:29:25,589
Your amygdala works, it's just that it
needs a much higher level of stimulation.
446
00:29:27,023 --> 00:29:31,425
Things that are typically stimulating
for most of the rest of us are
447
00:29:31,427 --> 00:29:33,427
not really doing it for you.
448
00:29:33,429 --> 00:29:35,862
Maybe my amygdala's
just tired, you know,
449
00:29:35,864 --> 00:29:38,969
from too many years
of being all gripped.
450
00:30:07,328 --> 00:30:11,367
I'm feeling quite fit, but, um, there's
such a mental component to free soloing.
451
00:30:12,535 --> 00:30:17,036
The big challenge is
controlling your mind, I guess.
452
00:30:17,038 --> 00:30:19,439
Because you're not, you're not controlling
your fear, you're sort of just trying
453
00:30:19,441 --> 00:30:22,277
to step outside of it.
454
00:30:24,846 --> 00:30:27,850
Oh, no,
woo, sorry, Alex!
455
00:30:28,183 --> 00:30:31,351
And when people talk about
trying to suppress your fear, I mean,
456
00:30:31,353 --> 00:30:33,954
I look at it in
a different way.
457
00:30:33,956 --> 00:30:38,257
I try to expand my comfort zone by
practicing the moves over and over again.
458
00:30:38,259 --> 00:30:41,397
I work through the fear, until
it's just not scary anymore.
459
00:30:43,865 --> 00:30:45,364
Oh, no, no, no, no.
460
00:30:45,366 --> 00:30:48,704
Oh, so slippery.
461
00:30:48,970 --> 00:30:53,276
But, um, for years Freeblast
has given me the heebie-jeebies.
462
00:30:54,309 --> 00:31:00,115
You're standing on tiny edges, small
variations in the texture of the rock.
463
00:31:00,982 --> 00:31:04,784
If you slip, your
hands can't hold you.
464
00:31:04,786 --> 00:31:08,956
It's just the two tiny points of
contact that keep you from falling, and
465
00:31:08,958 --> 00:31:12,696
when you step up,
there's only one.
466
00:31:13,094 --> 00:31:15,464
Oh.
467
00:31:23,404 --> 00:31:29,812
It's like, it looks so much better
today than yesterday, but we'll see.
468
00:31:32,847 --> 00:31:36,149
I probably fell about 30 feet.
469
00:31:36,151 --> 00:31:40,454
We're up there, we're roped up, Sanni's
belaying me, and then I just fell off,
470
00:31:40,456 --> 00:31:41,621
I don't know.
471
00:31:41,623 --> 00:31:44,323
I just, I don't even know
how, I just, like, fell off.
472
00:31:44,325 --> 00:31:46,092
Show me how much you
can go up and down on your own.
473
00:31:46,094 --> 00:31:49,095
It's, it's like, you know.
474
00:31:49,097 --> 00:31:51,364
I think this looks to me just like
your straightforward ankle sprain.
475
00:31:51,366 --> 00:31:52,733
Okay.
476
00:31:52,735 --> 00:31:55,034
So, you know, we say ankle sprain,
but more or less an ankle sprain
477
00:31:55,036 --> 00:31:56,169
is torn ligaments.
478
00:31:56,171 --> 00:31:57,572
- Yeah.
- That's what it is.
479
00:31:57,574 --> 00:31:58,939
...So what does that mean in terms
of, uh, like hiking and stuff?
480
00:31:58,941 --> 00:32:02,242
I mean, if I just, like, immobilize
it and then, uh, still just hike.
481
00:32:02,244 --> 00:32:04,277
Yeah, I mean, you gotta' get
yourself through the first few days.
482
00:32:04,279 --> 00:32:05,513
Yeah.
483
00:32:05,515 --> 00:32:06,846
Um, but after that and it's
just strengthening and rehab.
484
00:32:06,848 --> 00:32:09,816
Well, and actually, can I make
it worse really, through activity?
485
00:32:09,818 --> 00:32:14,257
Um, you could probably
do too much too soon.
486
00:32:21,529 --> 00:32:24,031
Wait, you don't need
to keep that right.
487
00:32:24,033 --> 00:32:26,600
I can worry as
much as I want internally,
488
00:32:26,602 --> 00:32:30,603
but if he doesn't do
this stuff he'd regret it.
489
00:32:30,605 --> 00:32:35,409
If Alex and I got married and had kids,
I would feel a lot more willing to say
490
00:32:35,411 --> 00:32:40,179
what I thought about what
was acceptable risk or not.
491
00:32:40,181 --> 00:32:42,451
He should have
put his shoe on.
492
00:32:45,321 --> 00:32:48,291
- Stubborn.
- Stubborn.
493
00:32:55,430 --> 00:32:59,198
I thought you were, you know, walking
and stuff now, I thought you're fine.
494
00:32:59,200 --> 00:33:00,501
Oh, I am, but what.
495
00:33:00,503 --> 00:33:02,936
Doctors said you were
supposed to push it, Alex, come on.
496
00:33:02,938 --> 00:33:04,504
Don't you want
some watermelon?
497
00:33:04,506 --> 00:33:07,640
Oh, well, good thing you have
a personal slave to do that for you.
498
00:33:07,642 --> 00:33:10,009
Uh-huh, I know, I'm
pretty stoked about that.
499
00:33:10,011 --> 00:33:12,912
All right, um, is it gonna be that
no matter how I do this, you're like,
500
00:33:12,914 --> 00:33:14,448
"Why did you do it that way?"
501
00:33:14,450 --> 00:33:16,082
I just want watermelon.
502
00:33:16,084 --> 00:33:18,051
I kind of wanted to blame
Sanni to some extent because
503
00:33:18,053 --> 00:33:19,486
you're just like, "Whatever."
504
00:33:19,488 --> 00:33:21,021
I haven't been injured in, like,
seven years and then it's like I'm
505
00:33:21,023 --> 00:33:23,924
hanging out with this girl that doesn't
climb and I suddenly start getting
506
00:33:23,926 --> 00:33:25,359
injured all the time.
507
00:33:25,361 --> 00:33:27,930
It's like you just
cut down a tree.
508
00:33:36,505 --> 00:33:41,341
When they say "active recovery,"
no, that doesn't mean you're walking
509
00:33:41,343 --> 00:33:44,247
all over the place.
510
00:33:44,447 --> 00:33:48,383
I would be happy if
he didn't free solo.
511
00:33:49,384 --> 00:33:53,954
I've always appreciated that he never
told me beforehand that he was gonna
512
00:33:53,956 --> 00:33:55,922
free solo or anything.
513
00:33:55,924 --> 00:33:58,992
I could come down on him and say,
"You shouldn't be doing that,"
514
00:33:58,994 --> 00:34:02,028
and alienate him,
and, uh, it would've alienated
515
00:34:02,030 --> 00:34:04,630
him because that's
his, uh, whole life.
516
00:34:04,632 --> 00:34:08,134
I think when he's free soloing,
that's when he feels the most alive,
517
00:34:08,136 --> 00:34:10,370
the most everything, the most.
518
00:34:10,372 --> 00:34:11,904
Feels the most.
519
00:34:11,906 --> 00:34:16,275
And how can you even think about taking
that away from somebody, you know?
520
00:34:16,277 --> 00:34:18,348
I wouldn't.
521
00:34:28,424 --> 00:34:31,257
I've been able to stand on one foot
while I put my harness and my shoes and
522
00:34:31,259 --> 00:34:34,497
stuff on, and getting' this
like kind of, a minor victory.
523
00:34:36,732 --> 00:34:40,333
Um, I haven't put on my climbing
shoe basically since I did it.
524
00:34:40,335 --> 00:34:43,372
So swollen. So tender.
525
00:34:47,408 --> 00:34:52,011
Unfortunately, crack climbing
is all ankle-dependent.
526
00:34:52,013 --> 00:34:57,850
And Freerider is 3,000
feet of crack climbing.
527
00:34:57,852 --> 00:35:00,420
All my friends that have sprained
their ankles in serious ways have
528
00:35:00,422 --> 00:35:05,561
all been like, "Oh, it's gonna be at
least six months until it's normal."
529
00:35:06,261 --> 00:35:08,395
If I can't get this
done in the next month
530
00:35:08,397 --> 00:35:12,235
then the weather will change and
I'll have to wait until next year.
531
00:35:23,611 --> 00:35:27,047
You know, a couple years ago,
I remember him telling me that he had never
532
00:35:27,049 --> 00:35:31,350
fallen unexpectedly in his life,
and now I've seen it happen twice
533
00:35:31,352 --> 00:35:33,620
in the past, like, month.
534
00:35:33,622 --> 00:35:36,658
But when you hear stuff like that,
you start to wonder a little bit.
535
00:35:37,926 --> 00:35:41,560
I had this dream the night before
he called me that he had, like,
536
00:35:41,562 --> 00:35:44,563
wandered into our house and asked
us, and, like, started crying,
537
00:35:44,565 --> 00:35:46,766
which really freaked me out
'cause Alex doesn't cry.
538
00:35:46,768 --> 00:35:50,504
And then he had told me that he
fell free soloing and started, like,
539
00:35:50,506 --> 00:35:54,074
revealing all of his injuries, like
he pulled up his sleeve on his arm,
540
00:35:54,076 --> 00:35:57,576
and in my dream a bone just, like, fell
out of his arm and it was all messed up.
541
00:35:57,578 --> 00:36:02,415
And that, and it was this really, like,
kind of vivid, but super freaky dream.
542
00:36:02,417 --> 00:36:06,355
And, uh, and then the next day he
called me and told me he hurt himself.
543
00:36:07,321 --> 00:36:09,156
Hi, hi, Ingrid.
544
00:36:09,158 --> 00:36:11,324
Sometimes,
one at a time.
545
00:36:11,326 --> 00:36:12,826
Hi, hello, how's it going?
546
00:36:12,828 --> 00:36:15,828
- Hi, guys. -What's up, Fitz!
- So we got Fitz.
547
00:36:15,830 --> 00:36:18,198
- Hi, Tommy, hi, Fitz!
- Are you gonna carve a pumpkin?
548
00:36:18,200 --> 00:36:20,100
Nice, that's good.
549
00:36:20,102 --> 00:36:21,667
That seems off.
550
00:36:23,404 --> 00:36:24,705
Eww.
551
00:36:24,707 --> 00:36:27,174
Alex said, "I want nothing
to do with the pumpkin carving,
552
00:36:27,176 --> 00:36:28,775
and I won't carve anything
and I hate holidays."
553
00:36:28,777 --> 00:36:30,544
I like having
fun when I have fun.
554
00:36:30,546 --> 00:36:34,082
I don't like being told
that it's time to have fun.
555
00:36:34,283 --> 00:36:37,353
Yeah, I think we need
to a little more.
556
00:36:37,685 --> 00:36:38,784
Whoa, she's squirming.
557
00:36:38,786 --> 00:36:40,853
I don't know. Do you have
a good grip on there?
558
00:36:40,855 --> 00:36:43,723
You put that in my eye
again, I'm gonna drop you.
559
00:36:43,725 --> 00:36:46,192
Why does it not
want to see us?
560
00:36:46,194 --> 00:36:47,294
Just kidding, I won't.
561
00:36:47,296 --> 00:36:48,795
He keeps.
562
00:36:48,797 --> 00:36:50,230
You gotta lift him
up more, you need to.
563
00:36:50,232 --> 00:36:51,765
Bye, Tom.
564
00:36:51,767 --> 00:36:53,433
Oh man, you should have
a lot of fear right now.
565
00:36:53,435 --> 00:36:55,301
Okay, 'cause' I
feel a lot of anxiety.
566
00:36:55,303 --> 00:36:58,404
No one in any part of my family has
hugged during all my formative years.
567
00:36:58,406 --> 00:37:01,775
I had to teach myself how to hug
when I was, like, 23 or something.
568
00:37:01,777 --> 00:37:03,576
'Cause I was like,
"Everyone seems to hug,
569
00:37:03,578 --> 00:37:05,178
that seems like something
I should get into,"
570
00:37:05,180 --> 00:37:07,413
and then I started,
like, practicing.
571
00:37:07,415 --> 00:37:08,815
Now I'm quite a good hugger.
572
00:37:08,817 --> 00:37:10,350
Yes.
573
00:37:10,352 --> 00:37:11,750
You see that the
pumpkin is a van?
574
00:37:11,752 --> 00:37:13,487
- I did see it.
- That's a precious van.
575
00:37:13,489 --> 00:37:14,687
Is it a cat?
576
00:37:14,689 --> 00:37:16,455
- I did the cat. -That's good.
- Look at that.
577
00:37:16,457 --> 00:37:18,125
Um, I did it all by my.
578
00:37:18,127 --> 00:37:19,493
Honestly, it does
look good like this.
579
00:37:19,495 --> 00:37:21,294
It looked terrible.
580
00:37:21,296 --> 00:37:22,895
I think, yeah.
581
00:37:22,897 --> 00:37:26,232
Part of the thing with the L word,
you know, is saying love and stuff,
582
00:37:26,234 --> 00:37:29,569
is that, like, in my entire life no one
in any part of my family has ever used,
583
00:37:29,571 --> 00:37:31,674
you know, that word.
584
00:37:35,777 --> 00:37:38,444
My Mom has only spoken French to
my sister and I our whole lives.
585
00:37:38,446 --> 00:37:41,181
She's a French teacher, so she
says, "Je t'aime" or whatever,
586
00:37:41,183 --> 00:37:45,221
and then my dad didn't
talk about anything.
587
00:37:45,520 --> 00:37:48,855
Nobody had an
emotional bond with Charlie.
588
00:37:48,857 --> 00:37:52,495
Charlie was probably what
we call nowadays Asperger's.
589
00:37:55,263 --> 00:37:57,897
Charlie's obsession, what
everyone called monomania.
590
00:37:57,899 --> 00:37:59,699
He loved to travel.
591
00:37:59,701 --> 00:38:02,105
He lived to travel like
Alex lives to climb.
592
00:38:02,971 --> 00:38:05,841
When he wasn't traveling,
things were not good.
593
00:38:06,741 --> 00:38:09,708
Alex would do something and
we'd call him stupid names,
594
00:38:09,710 --> 00:38:13,649
"Hey, bozo, don't do it like
that," just demeaning things.
595
00:38:14,149 --> 00:38:18,217
If you learn that about your
self-worth when you're this big,
596
00:38:18,219 --> 00:38:21,357
I don't think that goes away.
597
00:38:22,024 --> 00:38:25,594
I have no
recollection of that.
598
00:38:25,962 --> 00:38:28,261
I don't think my dad
put down anybody.
599
00:38:28,263 --> 00:38:32,602
I think my dad is like a teddy
bear, but dad was pretty morose.
600
00:38:34,969 --> 00:38:37,571
And then the thing is once they got
divorced, then they both were, like,
601
00:38:37,573 --> 00:38:40,743
so much happier and it all seemed
great, but he died the next summer.
602
00:38:41,944 --> 00:38:46,879
It's really kind of too bad that he
doesn't get to see how it all played out,
603
00:38:46,881 --> 00:38:51,153
'cause he put so much effort
into nurturing my climbing.
604
00:38:53,689 --> 00:38:55,089
But who knows?
605
00:38:55,091 --> 00:38:58,924
Maybe mom thought that he was, like,
holding us back or, like, you know,
606
00:38:58,926 --> 00:39:02,228
not pushing us to achieve our
full potential or, like, whatever,
607
00:39:02,230 --> 00:39:04,366
you know what I mean?
608
00:39:04,667 --> 00:39:07,734
My Mom's favorite sayings
are, "Presque ne compte pas,"
609
00:39:07,736 --> 00:39:11,641
"Almost doesn't count,"
or, uh, "Good enough isn't."
610
00:39:12,007 --> 00:39:14,643
No matter how well I ever do at
anything, it's not that good.
611
00:39:20,582 --> 00:39:23,786
The bottomless pit
of self-loathing.
612
00:39:25,754 --> 00:39:30,560
I mean, that's definitely the
motivation for some soloing.
613
00:39:40,368 --> 00:39:42,437
Here we are.
614
00:39:43,238 --> 00:39:45,337
So I still
never, like, quietly,
615
00:39:45,339 --> 00:39:47,440
quite understand what
happened when you fell, you,
616
00:39:47,442 --> 00:39:48,975
like, do you even know?
617
00:39:48,977 --> 00:39:50,509
It should be just kinda, like.
618
00:39:50,511 --> 00:39:52,578
Uh, I don't know why I fell off,
but I mean I know that my skin was,
619
00:39:52,580 --> 00:39:53,813
like, hard and dry.
620
00:39:53,815 --> 00:39:55,015
It was like lightly raining
kind of and like really windy.
621
00:39:55,017 --> 00:39:58,788
Weird he doesn't even
say he knows what happened.
622
00:39:59,020 --> 00:40:02,455
He's like, "I, suddenly I was falling,"
which kind of surprised me because I feel
623
00:40:02,457 --> 00:40:04,958
like he's always so aware.
624
00:40:04,960 --> 00:40:07,863
Or like maybe he's not
always totally aware.
625
00:40:08,730 --> 00:40:13,400
You know Alex talks about having this
armor when he solos and I think as, like,
626
00:40:13,402 --> 00:40:16,772
a friend or a family member of him,
you kinda have to have that same thing.
627
00:40:21,810 --> 00:40:26,015
Like after that happened, for whatever reason,
it kinda like waked me up more than normal.
628
00:40:26,982 --> 00:40:29,315
You know, normally I'm just
like, "Oh, he's got it.
629
00:40:29,317 --> 00:40:31,317
He's such, he's such a beast,
you know, he's gonna be fine."
630
00:40:31,319 --> 00:40:37,290
But I just, like,
631
00:40:37,292 --> 00:40:41,596
am stressed out about the
thing a little bit, you know?
632
00:40:45,500 --> 00:40:49,703
Look, I don't wanna fall off and
die either, but there's a satisfaction to
633
00:40:49,705 --> 00:40:53,409
challenging yourself and
doing something well.
634
00:40:54,143 --> 00:40:57,710
That feeling is heightened when
you're for sure facing death.
635
00:40:57,712 --> 00:41:00,815
You can't make a mistake.
636
00:41:01,283 --> 00:41:06,585
If you're seeking perfection, free
soloing is as close as you can get.
637
00:41:06,587 --> 00:41:11,526
And, uh, it does feel good to feel
perfect, like, for a brief moment.
638
00:41:15,430 --> 00:41:18,665
My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible,"
but if I kill myself in an accident,
639
00:41:18,667 --> 00:41:22,569
they'll be like, "Oh, that was too
bad," but like life goes on, you know,
640
00:41:22,571 --> 00:41:23,904
like they'll be fine.
641
00:41:23,906 --> 00:41:25,404
I mean, and I've had this problem
with girls a lot, you know.
642
00:41:25,406 --> 00:41:28,708
They're like, "Oh, I really care
about you," I'm like, "No you don't."
643
00:41:28,710 --> 00:41:30,342
Like if I perish,
like, it doesn't matter,
644
00:41:30,344 --> 00:41:33,879
like you'll find somebody else, like,
that's not, that's not that big a deal.
645
00:41:33,881 --> 00:41:36,584
I don't know.
646
00:41:36,984 --> 00:41:39,921
Maybe that's a
little too callous.
647
00:41:45,160 --> 00:41:49,665
My foot is improving, but
it still swells up a bit.
648
00:41:53,667 --> 00:41:56,604
Rope!
649
00:42:01,810 --> 00:42:04,476
Pretty epic rappel.
650
00:42:04,478 --> 00:42:07,350
Uh, we're just commuting
down the wall, kinda.
651
00:42:07,817 --> 00:42:10,119
We're just having
a good old time.
652
00:42:11,252 --> 00:42:14,654
If you look at soloing El Cap objectively,
there are probably six pitches that
653
00:42:14,656 --> 00:42:17,457
worry me the most.
654
00:42:17,459 --> 00:42:19,993
Just off the ground, there's
some insecure climbing.
655
00:42:19,995 --> 00:42:22,629
And then Freeblast, Pitch 6,
being the one I fell off of,
656
00:42:22,631 --> 00:42:25,531
which is obviously
a total botch.
657
00:42:25,533 --> 00:42:28,902
Then the down climb
to the Hollow Flake.
658
00:42:28,904 --> 00:42:31,904
And then
the Monster Offwidth,
659
00:42:31,906 --> 00:42:34,709
which is super physical,
difficult style of climbing.
660
00:42:38,814 --> 00:42:41,948
When you're in the Monster Offwidth,
some part of you is always being
661
00:42:41,950 --> 00:42:44,719
crushed in the mountain.
662
00:42:45,419 --> 00:42:49,054
Imagine like the worst type of
Pilates class in the whole world,
663
00:42:49,056 --> 00:42:52,458
somebody like flogging as you do it,
and occasionally like sandpapering skin
664
00:42:52,460 --> 00:42:56,866
off your body, telling you to hold
the position until you freakin' vomit,
665
00:42:57,232 --> 00:43:00,803
and if you lose the
position you die.
666
00:43:04,538 --> 00:43:08,607
The Enduro Corner, in and of itself,
would have been the most difficult part of
667
00:43:08,609 --> 00:43:10,645
virtually any big
solo I've done.
668
00:43:15,683 --> 00:43:18,685
Your feet aren't on
any specific holds.
669
00:43:18,687 --> 00:43:20,853
What makes your feet stay to the wall
is the amount of pressure that you
670
00:43:20,855 --> 00:43:23,926
pull with your hands.
671
00:43:24,593 --> 00:43:27,794
The harder you pull with your
hands, the more your feet stick.
672
00:43:27,796 --> 00:43:31,200
The most demanding for your
arms on the whole route.
673
00:43:31,732 --> 00:43:36,037
And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the
Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued.
674
00:43:39,207 --> 00:43:43,112
But the piece that I've always worried about
the most is the crux, the hardest part.
675
00:43:44,145 --> 00:43:49,651
To get past the crux, you have climb either
the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner.
676
00:43:50,152 --> 00:43:54,156
2,000 off the ground, each of which
I've fallen off many times with a rope.
677
00:43:59,828 --> 00:44:02,931
The Teflon Corner, which is basically
like a 90-degree corner of glass,
678
00:44:03,332 --> 00:44:07,236
which is ultra-slippery,
just fills me with terror.
679
00:44:07,935 --> 00:44:12,038
Pushing against the two walls of it,
with my feet on glass, my palms on glass,
680
00:44:12,040 --> 00:44:15,007
and trying to make these little micro
adjustments to keep my balance centered so
681
00:44:15,009 --> 00:44:17,911
that I can push evenly
on all four sides of it.
682
00:44:17,913 --> 00:44:21,080
And then I imagine 2,500 feet of
air beneath my feet, you're, like,
683
00:44:21,082 --> 00:44:24,185
that's just a crazy
thing to think about.
684
00:44:26,187 --> 00:44:29,491
The alternative is
the Boulder Problem.
685
00:44:30,658 --> 00:44:33,578
But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot
section that's incredibly difficult.
686
00:44:36,730 --> 00:44:39,632
It's a very
intricate sequence.
687
00:44:39,634 --> 00:44:43,706
You've got your right hand on a
crimp, left hand on a side pole,
688
00:44:44,239 --> 00:44:47,643
and then you put your right foot
onto this dimple thing.
689
00:44:48,076 --> 00:44:51,881
Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling
crimp, left foot goes into a little dish,
690
00:44:54,181 --> 00:44:57,616
and then you drive up off the
left foot into the thumb press.
691
00:44:57,618 --> 00:44:59,752
That's the worst hold
on the entire route.
692
00:44:59,754 --> 00:45:02,658
So, you get maybe half
your thumb on the hold.
693
00:45:03,125 --> 00:45:07,630
Then you roll your two fingers
over the thumb, switch your feet,
694
00:45:08,797 --> 00:45:11,934
left foot stems out to this
really bad sloping black foothold.
695
00:45:14,768 --> 00:45:17,605
Switch your thumbs.
696
00:45:19,873 --> 00:45:23,141
And then reach out left to a big
sloping bread loaf type hold that
697
00:45:23,143 --> 00:45:26,114
feels kind of grainy.
698
00:45:27,315 --> 00:45:31,986
From there, you either karate kick or
double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall.
699
00:45:35,022 --> 00:45:38,690
In some ways, it makes more sense to do the
big two-handed jump because you're jumping to
700
00:45:38,692 --> 00:45:42,031
a good edge so there's
actually something to catch.
701
00:45:48,136 --> 00:45:51,239
But the idea of jumping without a
rope seems completely outrageous,
702
00:45:51,439 --> 00:45:54,776
if you miss it, that's that.
703
00:45:56,245 --> 00:46:00,716
But then the karate kick always feels
like you're falling into the other wall,
704
00:46:00,948 --> 00:46:04,185
which also feels
outrageous for soloing.
705
00:46:19,968 --> 00:46:23,236
Honestly, it wasn't like, I mean I
felt, like, pretty strong just pinching
706
00:46:23,238 --> 00:46:24,870
that shit and just
being that, put the foot.
707
00:46:24,872 --> 00:46:27,005
Well, as I said, when you actually
put your foot out there, I was like,
708
00:46:27,007 --> 00:46:28,040
"Well, that doesn't
look that bad."
709
00:46:28,042 --> 00:46:32,780
Yeah, it's not
like crazy, but we'll see.
710
00:46:38,687 --> 00:46:40,319
Did you take
Ibuprofen this morning?
711
00:46:40,321 --> 00:46:42,989
Uh-hmm, I mean, I'm
going to right now also.
712
00:46:42,991 --> 00:46:45,024
- For your ankle?
- Uh-hmm.
713
00:46:45,026 --> 00:46:51,366
Hmm, I'm not, like, super stoked when
he goes soloing, because he's already a
714
00:46:52,232 --> 00:46:55,701
big part of my life.
715
00:46:55,703 --> 00:47:00,408
I tell Alex I love him all the time, and
he shows me that he loves me all the time.
716
00:47:02,243 --> 00:47:04,109
And really just dive in.
717
00:47:04,111 --> 00:47:05,344
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
718
00:47:05,346 --> 00:47:07,446
But I also tell him that I
also need words of affection.
719
00:47:07,448 --> 00:47:10,251
- Yeah.
- We work on that.
720
00:47:11,719 --> 00:47:16,125
In terms of learning how to communicate
emotion, Alex has a long way to go.
721
00:47:16,692 --> 00:47:22,295
And I said, "Sometimes I'm gonna tell you
how I feel, and I just need you to say it
722
00:47:22,297 --> 00:47:25,000
totally makes sense
that you feel that way."
723
00:47:25,734 --> 00:47:28,971
He was like, "Yeah, I can
understand why you feel that way."
724
00:47:30,305 --> 00:47:33,105
I was like, "I don't
really think that you do,
725
00:47:33,107 --> 00:47:36,010
but I'm glad
that you're trying."
726
00:47:37,779 --> 00:47:40,112
Alex, we have
excellent team skills.
727
00:47:40,114 --> 00:47:42,380
Well, I thought, I feel like
we're not quite killin' it, but we're,
728
00:47:42,382 --> 00:47:43,850
I think we're doin' well.
729
00:47:43,852 --> 00:47:46,252
Really?
I think we're doing great.
730
00:47:46,254 --> 00:47:49,825
I'm very happy for Alex
and Sanni that it works so well.
731
00:47:50,457 --> 00:47:53,461
And I'm, I think I'm just
impressed by their relationship,
732
00:47:55,964 --> 00:48:00,002
but to free solo at that level, you
really have to have the mental armor.
733
00:48:01,069 --> 00:48:04,440
Having that romantic relationship
around is detrimental to that armor.
734
00:48:05,373 --> 00:48:08,908
You have to focus and inherently
a close romantic relationship
735
00:48:08,910 --> 00:48:10,275
removes that armor.
736
00:48:10,277 --> 00:48:13,748
You kinda can't have
both at the same time.
737
00:48:39,841 --> 00:48:42,107
There's always something that
has to give you the confidence to
738
00:48:42,109 --> 00:48:44,277
go out and free solo a route.
739
00:48:44,279 --> 00:48:48,150
So sometimes, that confidence just
comes from feeling super, super fit.
740
00:48:48,350 --> 00:48:51,819
Sometimes, that confidence comes
through preparation and rehearsal.
741
00:48:52,486 --> 00:48:55,256
But I mean there's always something
that makes you feel ready.
742
00:49:02,897 --> 00:49:05,063
There's something to be said for, like,
soloing a bunch of pitches to, like,
743
00:49:05,065 --> 00:49:08,437
get into that right space.
744
00:49:10,839 --> 00:49:12,908
It's a little stressful.
745
00:49:13,241 --> 00:49:16,842
It's just, it's unreal.
746
00:49:16,844 --> 00:49:18,478
Yeah.
747
00:49:18,480 --> 00:49:21,880
And as much as I trust Alex and
I know that he's really methodical, uh,
748
00:49:21,882 --> 00:49:25,053
if you're pushing the edge,
eventually you find the edge.
749
00:49:28,489 --> 00:49:30,089
But then there's just some
things that you're, like, well,
750
00:49:30,091 --> 00:49:33,625
you just have to push that far because
they're just, they're just that cool.
751
00:49:33,627 --> 00:49:36,430
And El Cap is that cool.
752
00:49:39,334 --> 00:49:42,805
There's incremental advances
that happen in all kinds of things,
753
00:49:43,205 --> 00:49:46,975
but every once in a while there's
just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap,
754
00:49:47,408 --> 00:49:50,946
if he pulls this off,
is this quantum leap.
755
00:49:51,779 --> 00:49:55,950
It is hard to imagine somebody up
there by themselves, without a rope,
756
00:49:56,317 --> 00:49:58,484
where it's pretty much all the
other big cliffs around here.
757
00:49:58,486 --> 00:50:01,190
I can kinda get it.
758
00:50:01,756 --> 00:50:04,022
How many times have you
soloed both those routes now?
759
00:50:04,024 --> 00:50:08,159
Well, Astroman, three or four
times, but the Rostrum, I mean, literally,
760
00:50:08,161 --> 00:50:10,263
like, fifty, sixty.
761
00:50:10,265 --> 00:50:12,500
Wait, you've soloed
the Rostrum 50 or 60 times?
762
00:50:13,134 --> 00:50:15,134
It was like part
of the circuit and I would,
763
00:50:15,136 --> 00:50:17,270
I would go there and I
would do it at least twice.
764
00:50:17,272 --> 00:50:19,540
Like I was just glommed on.
765
00:50:19,806 --> 00:50:21,040
Uh-huh.
766
00:50:21,042 --> 00:50:22,408
Not like I had a fear, but
just kind of like this is how.
767
00:50:22,410 --> 00:50:24,676
Yeah, because you're so tight. You
know, I love that about soloing.
768
00:50:24,678 --> 00:50:26,578
My footwork gets really good.
769
00:50:26,580 --> 00:50:28,147
Yeah, really,
yeah totally, yeah.
770
00:50:28,149 --> 00:50:30,449
But it's not for anybody
else, this is just for me.
771
00:50:30,451 --> 00:50:32,183
Yeah, yeah, just because
you feel like you're.
772
00:50:32,185 --> 00:50:33,920
And after Astroman,
people were like,
773
00:50:33,922 --> 00:50:35,487
"Ah, we wanna film
you, film you up there,"
774
00:50:35,489 --> 00:50:38,426
and I'm like, "Not interested,
not even slightly."
775
00:50:38,627 --> 00:50:42,295
For me, it was so incredibly important
to be doing it for the right reasons.
776
00:50:42,297 --> 00:50:45,330
I mean, I think I'm still doing
everything for the right reasons,
777
00:50:45,332 --> 00:50:48,567
and I'm still totally stoked, but I feel
like from the outside observer, you know,
778
00:50:48,569 --> 00:50:51,937
they'd be like, "Oh, he's got a
movie crew," like clearly that's the
779
00:50:51,939 --> 00:50:53,573
wrong reasons, you know.
780
00:50:53,575 --> 00:50:59,181
The worst thing about having a
film crew is if it changes your mindset.
781
00:51:09,290 --> 00:51:12,227
I think Alex is
almost ready to do it.
782
00:51:12,460 --> 00:51:15,497
He just wants to take
a few more practice laps.
783
00:51:16,531 --> 00:51:22,036
And we're just trying to figure
out all of our camera positions.
784
00:51:27,274 --> 00:51:31,946
I mean the soloing
headspace is so fragile.
785
00:51:32,480 --> 00:51:36,681
We wanna film it well, but it's about
not getting in his way and making sure
786
00:51:36,683 --> 00:51:39,654
he has the experience he wants.
787
00:51:44,459 --> 00:51:47,292
The worst possible scenario
is that one of us would do something
788
00:51:47,294 --> 00:51:49,194
that would kill him.
789
00:51:49,196 --> 00:51:50,462
Is it gonna be the drone?
790
00:51:50,464 --> 00:51:51,531
Is it gonna be
one of the ropes?
791
00:51:51,533 --> 00:51:55,203
Is it gonna be us accidently
knocking off a rock?
792
00:51:58,705 --> 00:52:01,373
The idea of falling off is, you
know, obviously I'm trying to avoid that,
793
00:52:01,375 --> 00:52:05,544
but it's like kind of okay
if it's just by myself.
794
00:52:05,546 --> 00:52:08,480
But, like, I wouldn't wanna fall off right
in front of my friends, 'cause that's like,
795
00:52:08,482 --> 00:52:11,719
that's kind of messed up.
796
00:52:12,120 --> 00:52:15,424
Where are you comfortable
with us being essentially?
797
00:52:16,091 --> 00:52:19,025
Well, do you have
like.
798
00:52:19,027 --> 00:52:20,359
The traverse into it?
799
00:52:20,361 --> 00:52:21,993
- Uh-hmm.
- Yeah.
800
00:52:21,995 --> 00:52:25,196
And then a, just a camera above, sitting
above the Boulder Pitch, essentially.
801
00:52:25,198 --> 00:52:27,699
- Yeah. -It's distracting.
- Yeah, it's distracting.
802
00:52:27,701 --> 00:52:30,703
Well, it's not just distracting,
but it's also like, you know,
803
00:52:30,705 --> 00:52:34,276
nobody wants to see
that, I don't know.
804
00:52:36,210 --> 00:52:40,279
Like, yeah, I don't,
yeah, it's better not to.
805
00:52:40,281 --> 00:52:42,484
Some things you're like, meh.
806
00:52:43,116 --> 00:52:47,022
Yeah, okay.
807
00:52:49,156 --> 00:52:52,091
So should I rally into the valley
and try to like round out plans?
808
00:52:52,093 --> 00:52:54,261
Yeah, yeah.
809
00:52:58,098 --> 00:53:00,766
Um, the moon set
at 4:50 behind the ridge.
810
00:53:00,768 --> 00:53:05,504
The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30 and
by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably.
811
00:53:05,506 --> 00:53:06,739
- 8:05?
- Okay.
812
00:53:06,741 --> 00:53:08,841
You don't want it to be
sunny when you get to the crux,
813
00:53:08,843 --> 00:53:12,111
and it takes three or four hours
to get up to the Boulder Problem,
814
00:53:12,113 --> 00:53:14,446
and it's fall so in
order to beat the sun,
815
00:53:14,448 --> 00:53:16,781
you basically have
to start in the dark.
816
00:53:16,783 --> 00:53:21,390
I kinda think just leave the
ground at 4:00 again, basically.
817
00:53:29,263 --> 00:53:30,462
I don't know.
818
00:53:30,464 --> 00:53:33,035
I'm starting to get
kind of psyched.
819
00:53:35,469 --> 00:53:38,304
The moment of just letting go to it is
in some ways the most peaceful because
820
00:53:38,306 --> 00:53:39,871
then it's like
you just do your thing.
821
00:53:39,873 --> 00:53:43,044
There's no more stress, there's no more
anxiety, there's no fear, whatever,
822
00:53:43,544 --> 00:53:45,777
you just go up and do it.
823
00:53:45,779 --> 00:53:49,084
I put on my tight shoes today,
it's like very exciting.
824
00:53:49,984 --> 00:53:53,319
It would be, like, it would be like a
samurai pulling out his favorite sword,
825
00:53:53,321 --> 00:53:54,719
you know like,
826
00:53:54,721 --> 00:53:56,654
"Oh, my gosh,"
you know, and now I'm like,
827
00:53:56,656 --> 00:53:59,257
"Oh, time for the,
the finely crafted blade."
828
00:53:59,259 --> 00:54:02,363
So stoked.
I like sinking into it.
829
00:54:02,964 --> 00:54:08,400
It's, it goes with the Jedi thing,
the samurai with the, and then I just
830
00:54:08,402 --> 00:54:10,069
started taking Ibuprofen.
831
00:54:10,071 --> 00:54:13,271
I've been, like, icing a bunch and, like,
I think my foot's gonna be pretty good.
832
00:54:13,473 --> 00:54:16,678
Yeah, what does Sanni say
when you talk to her about it?
833
00:54:16,977 --> 00:54:18,544
Um, I mean I haven't
talked to her that much.
834
00:54:18,546 --> 00:54:20,179
She's been, like, asking a lot of
questions like, "Oh, you know, how's it?"
835
00:54:20,181 --> 00:54:24,783
And I'm, I just haven't really like, I'm
just like, "Oh, we'll see, we'll see."
836
00:54:24,785 --> 00:54:28,355
You know, the fewer people know
anything, the better really.
837
00:54:30,524 --> 00:54:33,826
I had a dream and you were
limping and you were like, had caught,
838
00:54:33,828 --> 00:54:38,297
had like made the exact same fall and
fallen on your ankle in the exact same way.
839
00:54:38,299 --> 00:54:39,864
That's really nice, San San.
840
00:54:39,866 --> 00:54:41,333
It was like tragic.
841
00:54:41,335 --> 00:54:42,567
I love hearing
stories about that.
842
00:54:42,569 --> 00:54:45,538
- I woke up, like, "Oh my gosh.
- I hope that didn't happen."
843
00:54:45,540 --> 00:54:47,940
That's, that's really nice.
844
00:54:47,942 --> 00:54:49,808
Um, what is your,
is your daypack?
845
00:54:49,810 --> 00:54:51,576
They're bringing it up
there for you and Peter?
846
00:54:51,578 --> 00:54:53,545
Um, no.
847
00:54:53,547 --> 00:54:56,181
For me tomorrow, probably.
848
00:54:56,183 --> 00:54:58,917
For on the mountain?
849
00:54:58,919 --> 00:55:00,920
Um, for the summit, yeah.
850
00:55:00,922 --> 00:55:03,489
Hmm, you and Peter are gonna
try and do the whole thing?
851
00:55:03,491 --> 00:55:06,357
Uh, no, Peter won't be here
for a couple of days probably.
852
00:55:06,359 --> 00:55:08,560
Oh, who are you
climbing with tomorrow?
853
00:55:08,562 --> 00:55:11,529
Um, yeah, we'll just see.
854
00:55:11,531 --> 00:55:13,567
Oh, okay, okay.
855
00:55:16,703 --> 00:55:20,239
Wait, so are you thinking of soloing it
tomorrow, is that why you're not telling me who
856
00:55:20,241 --> 00:55:21,739
you're climbing with?
857
00:55:21,741 --> 00:55:24,375
Um, well, I'm not like
not telling you, but yeah.
858
00:55:24,377 --> 00:55:25,643
Whoa, Alex.
859
00:55:25,645 --> 00:55:27,879
- Whoa.
- Whoa. -Whoa.
860
00:55:27,881 --> 00:55:29,248
How do you feel?
861
00:55:29,250 --> 00:55:32,484
I'm, you know,
I mean, excited.
862
00:55:32,486 --> 00:55:35,554
That's really exciting. Is it
that feeling when you're like...
863
00:55:35,556 --> 00:55:37,855
So exciting I'm gonna
go right back to my book.
864
00:55:37,857 --> 00:55:40,361
Where you're like, no,
I'm not reading it.
865
00:55:41,629 --> 00:55:42,928
When did you decide?
866
00:55:42,930 --> 00:55:44,429
When did you decide
to do it tomorrow?
867
00:55:44,431 --> 00:55:47,602
No, just, you know, uh, yesterday
or the day before or something.
868
00:55:48,169 --> 00:55:51,339
Hmm, I'm processing.
869
00:56:16,864 --> 00:56:19,897
I wanna, like I wanna have this more,
like, holistic approach that you have where
870
00:56:19,899 --> 00:56:21,132
you're like "Well,
we're all gonna die,
871
00:56:21,134 --> 00:56:23,636
like might as well do what we
wanna do while we're here and
872
00:56:23,638 --> 00:56:27,942
it's okay when people die," but I feel
like I want you to meet me halfway
873
00:56:29,576 --> 00:56:34,248
and when you solo to
take me into the equation
874
00:56:35,415 --> 00:56:36,681
and then I think you said...
875
00:56:36,683 --> 00:56:39,486
Is there a question? -Some,
there's going to be. -Okay.
876
00:56:39,886 --> 00:56:42,788
Um, would putting me into the
equation actually ever change anything?
877
00:56:42,790 --> 00:56:45,826
Would you actually make
decisions differently?
878
00:56:46,194 --> 00:56:50,966
If I had some kind of obligation
to maximize my lifespan, then like yeah,
879
00:56:51,265 --> 00:56:53,332
obviously I'd have to
give up soloing and, um.
880
00:56:53,334 --> 00:56:56,935
Was me asking you, do you
see that as an obligation now?
881
00:56:56,937 --> 00:56:58,636
...Uh, no, no.
882
00:56:58,638 --> 00:57:00,306
Oh.
883
00:57:00,308 --> 00:57:05,911
No, but I appreciate your concerns and
I, you know, I respect that, but, but I,
884
00:57:05,913 --> 00:57:08,047
in no way, feel obligated, no.
885
00:57:08,049 --> 00:57:09,480
To maximize lifetime?
886
00:57:09,482 --> 00:57:12,553
No, no, I don't know.
887
00:57:14,122 --> 00:57:18,759
Um, but I mean like you saying, "Be safer,"
I'm kinda like well, I mean I can't.
888
00:57:19,893 --> 00:57:21,694
You know, I'm already
doing my best.
889
00:57:21,696 --> 00:57:23,862
So I could just, like, not do certain
things, but then you have, like,
890
00:57:23,864 --> 00:57:26,598
weird simmering resentment because
it's things that you love most in life
891
00:57:26,600 --> 00:57:28,567
have now been squashed.
892
00:57:28,569 --> 00:57:31,506
You know what I mean?
893
00:57:45,886 --> 00:57:49,721
- What time is it? -3:30.
- Oh.
894
00:57:49,723 --> 00:57:52,623
I just woke up one
minute before my alarm.
895
00:57:52,625 --> 00:57:55,330
Yeah, you woke up
before or after?
896
00:57:56,529 --> 00:57:59,633
One minute before.
897
00:58:16,082 --> 00:58:19,653
It's like always about, like,
excellence and perfection.
898
00:58:22,390 --> 00:58:25,750
And I was certainly raised that way, you
know, that you need to, you need to perform.
899
00:58:29,562 --> 00:58:32,563
It's also just like kind of rad because
you're doing something for the first time
900
00:58:32,565 --> 00:58:35,002
in human history.
901
00:58:49,417 --> 00:58:52,721
Let's hope it's
a low gravity day.
902
00:58:54,922 --> 00:58:57,556
Bye, Huck, see
you at the ground.
903
00:58:57,558 --> 00:59:00,728
- Meet you in the ground.
- See you, buddy.
904
00:59:27,687 --> 00:59:30,991
This sucks.
I don't wanna be here.
905
00:59:36,464 --> 00:59:39,433
I'm over it.
906
00:59:39,966 --> 00:59:41,098
What happened?
907
00:59:41,100 --> 00:59:43,569
I cheated on
the slab down there.
908
00:59:43,571 --> 00:59:45,069
Might as well radio it.
909
00:59:45,071 --> 00:59:47,841
Do you
wanna talk to him?
910
00:59:49,076 --> 00:59:51,743
I don't even know what to say,
it's, like, kind of embarrassing.
911
00:59:51,745 --> 00:59:53,946
Uh, hey, whoever's on
the radio, this is Alex.
912
00:59:53,948 --> 00:59:56,750
Um, I think I'm bailing.
913
00:59:58,718 --> 01:00:00,518
Wait, could you repeat?
914
01:00:00,520 --> 01:00:02,788
I
think he's bailing from heart.
915
01:00:02,790 --> 01:00:05,826
Bailing
from heart, that's correct.
916
01:00:09,129 --> 01:00:11,866
It's kind
of disturbing.
917
01:00:16,102 --> 01:00:19,004
Yeah, I wonder what it was.
918
01:00:19,006 --> 01:00:21,839
I don't know if I can
try with everybody watching.
919
01:00:21,841 --> 01:00:23,674
It's too scary.
920
01:00:23,676 --> 01:00:26,613
Just can't, like,
try for real.
921
01:00:40,794 --> 01:00:43,929
- Oh, my gosh. -Good morning.
- What are you doing?
922
01:00:43,931 --> 01:00:45,230
Oh, I bailed.
923
01:00:45,232 --> 01:00:46,797
You bailed, oh?
924
01:00:46,799 --> 01:00:48,000
Yeah, it's chilly outside.
925
01:00:48,002 --> 01:00:49,667
It's chilly, okay.
926
01:00:49,669 --> 01:00:51,772
Okay.
927
01:00:52,540 --> 01:00:53,605
What's going on?
928
01:00:53,607 --> 01:00:58,213
Well, not much.
929
01:00:58,413 --> 01:00:59,612
What's up?
930
01:00:59,614 --> 01:01:01,712
Oh, I just, I went up to Free
Blast and I was, like, nah,
931
01:01:01,714 --> 01:01:03,248
I'm not gonna' do it. But...
932
01:01:03,250 --> 01:01:04,716
Good for you.
933
01:01:04,718 --> 01:01:06,083
Yeah, well, it's just a
little weird, you know?
934
01:01:06,085 --> 01:01:07,819
- Yup.
- Yeah. -No.
935
01:01:07,821 --> 01:01:11,823
Right, I mean there's just too many random,
random folks about and stuff, whatever.
936
01:01:11,825 --> 01:01:13,158
Uh-hmm, yeah.
937
01:01:13,160 --> 01:01:15,928
But, like, basically I did the
first half of the first slab.
938
01:01:15,930 --> 01:01:17,263
Uh-hmm.
939
01:01:17,265 --> 01:01:19,665
And then, uh, and then I
just was like, "Oh, I don't know."
940
01:01:19,667 --> 01:01:20,866
And my feet.
941
01:01:20,868 --> 01:01:22,301
Right, you made the
perfect decision.
942
01:01:22,303 --> 01:01:23,868
I don't know though,
I'm just like.
943
01:01:23,870 --> 01:01:25,069
Yeah.
944
01:01:25,071 --> 01:01:27,138
But now it all has to
drag on longer, I'm like.
945
01:01:27,140 --> 01:01:30,007
You, yeah, I mean, you
never have to go for it.
946
01:01:30,009 --> 01:01:30,942
You can just.
947
01:01:30,944 --> 01:01:32,911
Well, I just need
it to end, you know.
948
01:01:32,913 --> 01:01:34,346
Yeah, yeah, all the...
949
01:01:34,348 --> 01:01:36,248
Yeah, you know what
I'm talking about.
950
01:01:36,250 --> 01:01:38,753
The circus surrounding you.
951
01:01:42,622 --> 01:01:45,926
I just can't imagine,
I wonder if he got nervous.
952
01:01:47,294 --> 01:01:49,928
Is that possible?
953
01:01:49,930 --> 01:01:51,832
Oh, man.
954
01:01:52,165 --> 01:01:55,067
There's a lot of things that I
don't totally understand about him.
955
01:01:55,069 --> 01:01:56,301
You know?
956
01:01:56,303 --> 01:01:57,669
Yeah, I know.
957
01:01:57,671 --> 01:02:01,975
I mean in some ways it'd be kind of
reassuring that Spock has nerves.
958
01:02:13,219 --> 01:02:15,821
It was the first time I've ever
gone up on something like real and
959
01:02:15,823 --> 01:02:17,623
then not done it.
960
01:02:17,625 --> 01:02:22,830
But it's also the first time I've ever gone up
on something real with people all watching.
961
01:02:23,096 --> 01:02:26,701
By myself, I maybe would have just,
like, persevered, I don't know,
962
01:02:27,268 --> 01:02:30,902
maybe I just suck, but,
963
01:02:30,904 --> 01:02:34,275
you know, at least I've
like, at least I've tried.
964
01:02:57,131 --> 01:02:59,067
Thanks for
meeting us again.
965
01:03:02,770 --> 01:03:06,672
It's funny, it always has a certain
smell in here, and I wonder if it's
966
01:03:06,674 --> 01:03:08,105
the paint or the.
967
01:03:08,107 --> 01:03:10,611
Yeah, it's
the fresh paint.
968
01:03:10,978 --> 01:03:13,948
Dining room with
probably also bookshelves.
969
01:03:15,181 --> 01:03:16,781
Wait, so what
am, what am I signing?
970
01:03:16,783 --> 01:03:19,051
"Buyers of unit approves
the home inspection."
971
01:03:19,053 --> 01:03:24,188
Yeah, Alex told me I get
one furniture question a day.
972
01:03:24,190 --> 01:03:26,158
I've always thought
that I ought to buy a house,
973
01:03:26,160 --> 01:03:29,761
just haven't quite had the energy
to make it all happen myself.
974
01:03:29,763 --> 01:03:32,330
I think Sanni will be stoked to have
a place to live and there's so much
975
01:03:32,332 --> 01:03:34,835
climbing all around Vegas.
976
01:03:35,303 --> 01:03:40,642
Big sectional here and
chair or like sofa and two chairs.
977
01:03:43,377 --> 01:03:46,080
Potential, like, bar area.
978
01:03:47,747 --> 01:03:49,380
I would just sleep
straight on the carpet.
979
01:03:49,382 --> 01:03:51,652
It'd be like.
980
01:03:58,892 --> 01:04:02,993
Alex was a huge jerk watching
me struggle with the tape measure,
981
01:04:02,995 --> 01:04:06,031
being an asshole standing by
commenting on how stupid I look,
982
01:04:06,033 --> 01:04:10,335
but not actually offering to help
or be productive or kind in any way.
983
01:04:10,337 --> 01:04:13,170
And so now it's
all gone to shit.
984
01:04:13,172 --> 01:04:16,276
Yeah, you're asking about our
domestic bliss, it's nonexistent.
985
01:04:17,111 --> 01:04:19,944
You're so angry, but
it's cracking, it's cracking.
986
01:04:19,946 --> 01:04:21,145
It's not cracking.
987
01:04:21,147 --> 01:04:22,413
Yeah, it is, it's cracking.
988
01:04:22,415 --> 01:04:24,015
No, it's not,
I'm still angry.
989
01:04:24,017 --> 01:04:25,317
I can tell you're cracking.
990
01:04:25,319 --> 01:04:26,851
I'm not cracking.
991
01:04:26,853 --> 01:04:28,420
But you're not that
angry, you're cracking.
992
01:04:28,422 --> 01:04:30,087
I'm not cracking.
993
01:04:30,089 --> 01:04:32,156
This is firm
resolve of hatred.
994
01:04:32,158 --> 01:04:34,361
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
995
01:04:35,763 --> 01:04:38,966
Oh, boy.
996
01:04:40,167 --> 01:04:42,900
That one seems very
big and very wide.
997
01:04:42,902 --> 01:04:44,439
Oh.
998
01:04:46,172 --> 01:04:48,810
Whoa, that seems really deep.
999
01:04:50,343 --> 01:04:52,042
We should just ask somebody.
1000
01:04:52,044 --> 01:04:53,344
Hmm, I know.
1001
01:04:53,346 --> 01:04:54,779
Let's keep looking
for the smaller ones.
1002
01:04:54,781 --> 01:04:56,114
Oh, this is the $400, that's.
1003
01:04:56,116 --> 01:04:57,382
That's it!
1004
01:04:57,384 --> 01:04:58,549
That's it, that's our jam.
1005
01:04:58,551 --> 01:05:00,051
This is actually,
like, kind of perfect.
1006
01:05:00,053 --> 01:05:02,957
This is like so adequate.
1007
01:05:05,158 --> 01:05:06,525
We have a fridge!
1008
01:05:06,527 --> 01:05:09,464
- Hmm.
- Yay! -That success.
1009
01:05:09,997 --> 01:05:11,529
Is it possible?
1010
01:05:11,531 --> 01:05:17,071
We had like a sort of a rough patch
since Yosemite, where, I don't know,
1011
01:05:17,837 --> 01:05:21,808
Alex isn't super good about
putting a name to how he's feeling.
1012
01:05:22,042 --> 01:05:24,842
So, he'll be like, "I know I'm cranky, but
I don't really know why and I'm not gonna
1013
01:05:24,844 --> 01:05:27,314
take the time
to figure it out."
1014
01:05:27,848 --> 01:05:30,882
I'm patient, but
I also have self-respect.
1015
01:05:30,884 --> 01:05:34,956
And then, you know, the second that I
start being mad, he's just like "foom."
1016
01:05:38,357 --> 01:05:39,924
How do you make coffee?
1017
01:05:39,926 --> 01:05:42,426
You need like a filter.
1018
01:05:42,428 --> 01:05:46,130
Definitely my relationship with Sanni
is, like, the most healthy and stable
1019
01:05:46,132 --> 01:05:48,301
relationship I've ever had.
1020
01:05:48,634 --> 01:05:51,037
Oh, look at that, the only
thing in the cupboard.
1021
01:05:51,638 --> 01:05:53,437
Certainly more communicative.
1022
01:05:53,439 --> 01:05:55,940
Even Sanni over the year and a
half we've been dating is like,
1023
01:05:55,942 --> 01:05:57,975
"Wow, you've
really blossomed."
1024
01:05:57,977 --> 01:05:59,645
Well, that's not
really promising.
1025
01:05:59,647 --> 01:06:02,480
And you think you put the coffee in there
and then you push the water through it?
1026
01:06:02,482 --> 01:06:03,848
I don't how to, um.
1027
01:06:03,850 --> 01:06:06,250
Hello,
oh, my gosh, wow!
1028
01:06:06,252 --> 01:06:07,919
Oh, like, how's, why?
1029
01:06:07,921 --> 01:06:09,353
Is this what it is
to be, um, a homeowner?
1030
01:06:09,355 --> 01:06:11,556
You get breakfast and coffee
made for you every day?
1031
01:06:11,558 --> 01:06:14,192
I don't, I don't understand
the, do you put the coffee in here and
1032
01:06:14,194 --> 01:06:15,259
then put the water to it?
1033
01:06:15,261 --> 01:06:16,493
It's really
complicated.
1034
01:06:16,495 --> 01:06:19,200
But she sees
things in a different way.
1035
01:06:19,399 --> 01:06:22,869
For Sanni the point of
life is like happiness.
1036
01:06:23,069 --> 01:06:27,007
To be with people that make you feel
fulfilled and to have a good time.
1037
01:06:27,308 --> 01:06:30,344
For me it's all
about performance.
1038
01:06:30,777 --> 01:06:34,849
The thing is anybody
can be happy and cozy.
1039
01:06:35,049 --> 01:06:38,486
Nothing good happens in the
world by being happy and cozy.
1040
01:06:40,587 --> 01:06:44,525
You know, like nobody achieves anything
great because they're happy and cozy.
1041
01:06:45,959 --> 01:06:50,397
You never wanna feel like you're
getting in the way of someone's goal.
1042
01:06:51,265 --> 01:06:56,069
And it's really hard for me
to grasp why he wants this.
1043
01:06:57,904 --> 01:07:02,576
But it's his dream and he
obviously still really wants it.
1044
01:07:06,379 --> 01:07:09,547
It's about
being a warrior.
1045
01:07:09,549 --> 01:07:12,549
It doesn't matter about
the cause necessarily.
1046
01:07:12,551 --> 01:07:16,056
This is your path and you will
pursue it with excellence.
1047
01:07:18,091 --> 01:07:21,027
You face your fear because
your goal demands it.
1048
01:07:22,361 --> 01:07:26,200
That is the goddamn
warrior spirit.
1049
01:07:26,832 --> 01:07:30,437
I think that the free soloing mentality
is pretty close to warrior culture,
1050
01:07:31,404 --> 01:07:35,942
where you give something 100% focus
because your life depends on it.
1051
01:08:06,239 --> 01:08:10,741
The move I gave up on in the fall was a
right foot on this little edge right here,
1052
01:08:10,743 --> 01:08:15,015
and I basically just have to like stand
on the right foot and just trust it.
1053
01:08:15,216 --> 01:08:18,283
And I was like, "I don't really wanna
have my whole life depend on like standing
1054
01:08:18,285 --> 01:08:21,255
on this one right foot."
1055
01:08:22,522 --> 01:08:25,359
But maybe I
can find another way.
1056
01:08:31,564 --> 01:08:35,169
I think this is like kind
of the business of the whole deal,
1057
01:08:36,202 --> 01:08:39,503
which is interesting because if you're
climbing with a rope it's not at all,
1058
01:08:39,505 --> 01:08:42,642
but without a rope it is.
1059
01:09:11,604 --> 01:09:17,243
That's my variation,
I just don't know.
1060
01:09:25,786 --> 01:09:30,524
I think that he's only comfortable climbing
in front of the camera or in front of
1061
01:09:30,790 --> 01:09:34,495
any other people when he's
really confident and secure.
1062
01:09:35,095 --> 01:09:38,499
And that's been the dilemma that this
whole production has faced, right?
1063
01:09:38,732 --> 01:09:39,931
- Yeah.
- From the beginning.
1064
01:09:39,933 --> 01:09:42,667
Our being there is
always going to change things.
1065
01:09:42,669 --> 01:09:46,404
What made the big difference for me
is that he did turn around last year.
1066
01:09:46,406 --> 01:09:50,211
He didn't feel the pressure to have
to do it because we were there.
1067
01:09:51,377 --> 01:09:54,715
And I really, like
that to me said a lot.
1068
01:09:55,614 --> 01:09:57,718
It meant a lot.
1069
01:10:15,102 --> 01:10:18,703
Is that what you'd
want, us not to film it?
1070
01:10:18,705 --> 01:10:21,239
Hmm, no.
1071
01:10:21,241 --> 01:10:24,409
I mean, hard to say it but I care
about doing it a lot more than I care
1072
01:10:24,411 --> 01:10:26,110
about it being filmed.
1073
01:10:26,112 --> 01:10:27,579
You know?
1074
01:10:27,581 --> 01:10:30,181
You could put your foot down
at any time, and, and, you know.
1075
01:10:30,183 --> 01:10:31,682
Yeah, I mean,
I'm aware of it.
1076
01:10:31,684 --> 01:10:33,450
Like, if I want to, I just won't
tell anybody and I'm just gonna do it
1077
01:10:33,452 --> 01:10:34,651
on my own terms.
1078
01:10:34,653 --> 01:10:35,919
Yeah, exactly.
1079
01:10:35,921 --> 01:10:38,289
Like whatever, like I mean
that's obviously on the table.
1080
01:10:38,291 --> 01:10:40,458
But obviously that would
hose everybody, you know?
1081
01:10:40,460 --> 01:10:41,558
Yeah.
1082
01:10:41,560 --> 01:10:42,893
If you woke up
tomorrow and you were like,
1083
01:10:42,895 --> 01:10:44,161
"You know what,
screw all of this,
1084
01:10:44,163 --> 01:10:46,530
I just don't care enough, like
I don't feel good enough."
1085
01:10:46,532 --> 01:10:48,033
You know,
but that's like, yeah,
1086
01:10:48,035 --> 01:10:50,235
I mean, of course I, I mean, I know
I could do that and just walk away.
1087
01:10:50,237 --> 01:10:55,176
But it's like, you know, I
mean, you know, I don't want to.
1088
01:11:07,653 --> 01:11:11,356
Having all these people around
requires a higher level of preparation,
1089
01:11:11,358 --> 01:11:14,195
a higher level of
confidence basically.
1090
01:11:14,394 --> 01:11:17,728
I need to like dial it in so much that,
you know, it doesn't matter if there's
1091
01:11:17,730 --> 01:11:20,431
like a stadium of people watching me because
it's so easy for me that I'm just like,
1092
01:11:20,433 --> 01:11:22,703
"Check this out."
And just do it.
1093
01:11:24,136 --> 01:11:27,640
Pitch one, stay left towards the
top, splitter, it feels more secure.
1094
01:11:28,675 --> 01:11:31,642
Pitch two, trust the right
foot, rock on, trust the feet,
1095
01:11:31,644 --> 01:11:33,277
right hand to
the last under cling.
1096
01:11:33,279 --> 01:11:34,945
Eight, easy romp. Go fast.
1097
01:11:34,947 --> 01:11:38,283
Nine, stay outside of the
down climb, careful of blocks.
1098
01:11:38,285 --> 01:11:42,186
Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the
corner, key left-hand pinch thing,
1099
01:11:42,188 --> 01:11:45,757
right foot back step on the lower edge,
left foot faced against the wall, stand up.
1100
01:11:45,759 --> 01:11:49,663
Left hand to the huge ear jug thing,
switch the feet, match the big jug,
1101
01:11:50,095 --> 01:11:53,597
left foot jams into the crack, then you see
right-hand down pulling on the top part of the
1102
01:11:53,599 --> 01:11:57,235
jug, left hand goes into this flared slot
thing, which you can either fist jam or hand
1103
01:11:57,237 --> 01:11:59,536
jam, either way, it's like
a flare jam in the slot.
1104
01:11:59,538 --> 01:12:03,473
Sag down onto it, right hand crosses
under to an under cling, side pull.
1105
01:12:03,475 --> 01:12:06,610
Right foot sinks low to a flat edge,
left foot steps through to an edge,
1106
01:12:06,612 --> 01:12:10,347
right foot back steps really high so you
can sag your weight around the corner
1107
01:12:10,349 --> 01:12:11,915
without having to swing.
1108
01:12:11,917 --> 01:12:14,785
Left foot out to the big horn, right
hand through to a little finger pocket,
1109
01:12:14,787 --> 01:12:17,955
you go left foot out to an edge around the
corner, you can actually push all the way
1110
01:12:17,957 --> 01:12:20,357
into the corner, then you can grab
this down pulling right hand, flat,
1111
01:12:20,359 --> 01:12:22,060
like a small crimp.
1112
01:12:22,062 --> 01:12:24,561
Left hand to the other under cling, switch
your feet on the rail and then just reach
1113
01:12:24,563 --> 01:12:26,866
through the jugs,
and then it's done.
1114
01:12:27,099 --> 01:12:31,436
The key thing for the crux, pull
hard, trust feet, "trust" underline,
1115
01:12:31,438 --> 01:12:33,704
double exclamation
point, period.
1116
01:12:33,706 --> 01:12:36,576
Autopilot. Period.
1117
01:12:56,528 --> 01:12:59,563
I mean, you know, it's not
surprising that Ueli died.
1118
01:12:59,565 --> 01:13:03,267
Considering he's always doing crazy
dangerous things, but I kind of thought
1119
01:13:03,269 --> 01:13:05,939
he was gonna survive.
1120
01:13:08,041 --> 01:13:13,444
Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs
that you just kind of squeak out once.
1121
01:13:13,446 --> 01:13:16,850
You know I've
always tried not to.
1122
01:13:17,050 --> 01:13:19,917
But when I was talking to him
about, about Free Rider, I was like,
1123
01:13:19,919 --> 01:13:22,552
"Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those
routes that I just need to go squeak
1124
01:13:22,554 --> 01:13:25,692
out once and just like
make sure it's my day."
1125
01:13:26,292 --> 01:13:29,729
You know, obviously
it wasn't his day.
1126
01:13:38,904 --> 01:13:42,440
After Ueli died, it's interesting
with Alex, how he justifies all that
1127
01:13:42,442 --> 01:13:44,745
stuff away so quickly.
1128
01:13:45,345 --> 01:13:47,578
He was just kind of like
shrugged it off, he's like
1129
01:13:47,580 --> 01:13:50,017
"Oh, yeah, yeah,
it could happen."
1130
01:13:53,952 --> 01:13:56,521
I talked to Alex for a
really long time about all of this.
1131
01:13:56,523 --> 01:13:58,489
And I was like,
"What if you die?
1132
01:13:58,491 --> 01:14:02,026
Like what if you die
just like Ueli died?"
1133
01:14:02,028 --> 01:14:05,963
Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a
really beautiful relationship and they
1134
01:14:05,965 --> 01:14:08,633
would climb together.
1135
01:14:08,635 --> 01:14:13,003
Alex said at one point,
"Well, what did she expect?"
1136
01:14:13,005 --> 01:14:16,743
And I got, I was like, "What do
you mean what did she expect?"
1137
01:14:17,577 --> 01:14:23,483
I was like, "I'm Nicole, Alex!
And I don't expect that."
1138
01:14:23,983 --> 01:14:27,418
Tons of more people
have died and Alex is kind of
1139
01:14:27,420 --> 01:14:32,557
the most likely to die,
but I know he's gonna do it.
1140
01:14:32,559 --> 01:14:36,330
So I'd like to be there to help
him prepare as well as he can.
1141
01:14:38,564 --> 01:14:39,799
Oh, shit.
1142
01:14:40,132 --> 01:14:44,134
If he went to solo it and fell and
died, and I hadn't helped him prepare
1143
01:14:44,136 --> 01:14:45,703
that would be harder for me.
1144
01:14:45,705 --> 01:14:48,740
Like, I just know that I'm, I'm one of
the people that's gonna be able to do
1145
01:14:48,742 --> 01:14:51,612
that the best with
him and so, I should.
1146
01:14:59,486 --> 01:15:03,523
He said he's feeling
tinges of, of like game time.
1147
01:15:05,157 --> 01:15:07,861
I think there's a
chance he goes tomorrow.
1148
01:15:11,898 --> 01:15:15,967
They are remote cameras,
because we wanna stay out of Alex's
1149
01:15:15,969 --> 01:15:17,938
line of sight
when he's doing it.
1150
01:15:20,806 --> 01:15:23,607
Okay, everybody knows what
to do if something goes wrong.
1151
01:15:23,609 --> 01:15:26,346
Josh, just to confirm
who should Mikey call?
1152
01:15:27,746 --> 01:15:30,013
The easiest thing
would just be 911.
1153
01:15:30,015 --> 01:15:33,786
And that we will get kicked into
gear and tell them what you know.
1154
01:15:34,187 --> 01:15:35,520
A climber.
1155
01:15:35,522 --> 01:15:37,454
Yeah.
1156
01:15:37,456 --> 01:15:40,526
All right, no
mistakes tomorrow.
1157
01:15:51,004 --> 01:15:55,071
I'm worried that tomorrow
is gonna be it, like, you know,
1158
01:15:55,073 --> 01:15:58,978
like Alex's existence
will be over.
1159
01:16:00,746 --> 01:16:04,714
I was like, "Oh, I have to be
prepared for that outcome and
1160
01:16:04,716 --> 01:16:08,455
I have to realize that
that is a real possibility."
1161
01:16:12,892 --> 01:16:14,862
Oh, God.
1162
01:16:24,571 --> 01:16:28,004
Remember when you said you were
gonna stand up for my goodbye?
1163
01:16:28,006 --> 01:16:30,775
- Oh, is it time? -Yeah.
- Oh.
1164
01:16:30,777 --> 01:16:33,714
But you don't have to stand
up, but you have to sit up.
1165
01:16:34,081 --> 01:16:37,718
Oh, you could've
just left me.
1166
01:16:39,117 --> 01:16:42,789
No, no, I'm never gonna go.
1167
01:16:43,755 --> 01:16:46,022
Okay, drive safe.
1168
01:16:46,024 --> 01:16:49,662
Ciao, see you later!
1169
01:17:05,778 --> 01:17:08,012
I mean, I didn't
ask her to leave.
1170
01:17:08,014 --> 01:17:09,713
I mean, I would never
ask her to leave.
1171
01:17:09,715 --> 01:17:14,685
But, you know, I think she kind of understands
that, that it's probably easier for
1172
01:17:14,687 --> 01:17:17,858
me if she's gone.
1173
01:17:19,826 --> 01:17:22,560
I don't, I, the whole like
saying goodbye thing I'm like
1174
01:17:22,562 --> 01:17:25,629
"I'll probably see her in
like five days or something."
1175
01:17:25,631 --> 01:17:28,134
It's not like goodbye, it's
just goodbye for a few days.
1176
01:17:33,840 --> 01:17:37,275
You know, I mean there's just
that like weird thought of like,
1177
01:17:37,277 --> 01:17:41,081
don't freaking let that be
our last hug or whatever.
1178
01:17:45,785 --> 01:17:49,755
You know, like I shouldn't
be having that thought...
1179
01:17:53,859 --> 01:17:57,497
of like "What if
something happens?
1180
01:17:57,764 --> 01:18:01,034
Like what if I don't
see him again?"
1181
01:18:02,568 --> 01:18:05,636
You know, like, "Why
do you wanna do this?
1182
01:18:05,638 --> 01:18:09,142
Like it's a
totally crazy goal."
1183
01:19:43,336 --> 01:19:45,136
Hey, Jimmy, do you copy?
1184
01:19:45,138 --> 01:19:47,274
This is Jimmy.
1185
01:19:49,242 --> 01:19:51,712
He
just started climbing.
1186
01:20:29,381 --> 01:20:32,249
It is so
slippery right there.
1187
01:20:32,251 --> 01:20:34,121
This is where he bailed.
1188
01:21:32,411 --> 01:21:36,246
Mikey, do you copy?
This is Jimmy.
1189
01:21:36,248 --> 01:21:38,449
Hey, Jimmy, this is Mikey.
1190
01:21:38,451 --> 01:21:41,855
Can you let me know when
he's through the slab pitch?
1191
01:21:42,988 --> 01:21:45,222
He's through the slab pitch.
1192
01:21:45,224 --> 01:21:47,357
He's through it?
1193
01:21:47,359 --> 01:21:49,996
Yup,
he's almost at half dollar.
1194
01:21:50,528 --> 01:21:52,933
He's moving fast.
1195
01:21:54,067 --> 01:21:58,270
Yes, Jimmy,
he is of course ahead of schedule.
1196
01:22:00,872 --> 01:22:02,908
So how far
is he from Mammoth?
1197
01:22:04,010 --> 01:22:06,050
Doing
the half dollar right now.
1198
01:22:23,261 --> 01:22:26,198
6:21 he's down climbing
to Heart Ledge there's a party,
1199
01:22:27,233 --> 01:22:29,536
in a Porter Ledge still.
1200
01:22:32,337 --> 01:22:35,108
They're awake and
there's, they're aware.
1201
01:22:35,707 --> 01:22:38,444
They're like "Here comes
Honnold." Oh, my God.
1202
01:22:39,478 --> 01:22:42,515
A Dude in a bunny suit.
1203
01:22:46,385 --> 01:22:48,252
The person is getting up now.
1204
01:22:48,254 --> 01:22:50,253
Uh yeah, no there's a tail.
1205
01:22:50,255 --> 01:22:56,395
This person has a tail and it's
either a chicken head or a bunny.
1206
01:22:56,929 --> 01:22:59,132
Oh, it's a unicorn.
1207
01:22:59,331 --> 01:23:01,468
Come on.
Who does that?
1208
01:23:02,635 --> 01:23:05,238
I've never seen
that on El Cap.
1209
01:23:06,037 --> 01:23:09,373
Wow, and Alex is gone.
1210
01:23:09,375 --> 01:23:12,212
Okay, so he's entering
the Hollow Flake at 6:49.
1211
01:23:12,578 --> 01:23:16,215
He just did the Hollow Flake down
climb and is in the Hollow Flake now.
1212
01:23:21,354 --> 01:23:25,388
And then the thing about Free Rider
is that from the base of Hollow Flake
1213
01:23:25,390 --> 01:23:29,129
it's one crack system all the way to
the top which is like what, 2,000 feet?
1214
01:23:31,663 --> 01:23:35,468
That's the most magnificent
crack on planet earth.
1215
01:23:43,341 --> 01:23:44,741
Doug, this is Jimmy.
1216
01:23:44,743 --> 01:23:48,148
Do you know if they've radioed if
he's gotten to the Monster yet?
1217
01:23:50,049 --> 01:23:51,885
Yeah, he's there now.
1218
01:24:24,684 --> 01:24:28,355
He's almost through it.
1219
01:24:41,733 --> 01:24:44,601
There, he's coming
up now actually.
1220
01:24:44,603 --> 01:24:47,603
Now we see him like at
the same height as the spire.
1221
01:24:47,605 --> 01:24:50,676
But you guys are all in
position ready to go?
1222
01:24:51,544 --> 01:24:55,948
Yeah, Sam and I
are at the bottom of the head wall.
1223
01:24:56,448 --> 01:25:00,920
My guess is he's 15 minutes
from the Boulder Problem or so.
1224
01:26:35,147 --> 01:26:39,118
He just did
the karate kick.
1225
01:26:40,819 --> 01:26:42,621
He's got it.
1226
01:26:47,326 --> 01:26:49,194
Oh, yeah.
1227
01:26:50,763 --> 01:26:52,596
That is way too gnarly.
1228
01:26:52,598 --> 01:26:55,402
- Oh, my God.
- He did it. Jesus.
1229
01:26:57,836 --> 01:27:00,239
He just sent the
boulder problem.
1230
01:27:01,273 --> 01:27:04,277
He must be so stoked.
1231
01:27:04,809 --> 01:27:07,729
I mean to have the slabs and the boulder
problem behind him is monumental.
1232
01:27:12,585 --> 01:27:16,422
- Here's the Enduro huh?
- Yup, this is the Enduro.
1233
01:27:52,791 --> 01:27:56,529
I can't believe you guys
are actually gonna watch.
1234
01:27:56,895 --> 01:28:00,532
Oh, I don't wanna, I don't,
I don't, I don't, I don't, no, no.
1235
01:28:23,589 --> 01:28:26,359
Oh, my God.
1236
01:28:34,233 --> 01:28:36,333
Yeah, that's kind
of exposed right there.
1237
01:28:36,335 --> 01:28:39,572
Oh, my God,
it's so exposed.
1238
01:28:39,871 --> 01:28:42,573
That arĂȘte move as he
stepped around has gotta be,
1239
01:28:42,575 --> 01:28:43,941
I mean that's one
of the most exposed moves
1240
01:28:43,943 --> 01:28:47,710
like anywhere on El Cap.
1241
01:28:47,712 --> 01:28:50,215
If you just step out,
it all drops away.
1242
01:29:43,434 --> 01:29:45,537
Yeah, buddy.
1243
01:29:46,205 --> 01:29:49,438
Alex is having
the best day of his life.
1244
01:29:49,440 --> 01:29:52,278
I don't know. Not me.
1245
01:29:52,478 --> 01:29:56,950
I'm done, yeah, no, this is it,
I don't, we don't need to do this again.
1246
01:30:01,586 --> 01:30:02,754
Yeah, no.
1247
01:32:06,778 --> 01:32:09,081
It's over now.
1248
01:32:13,452 --> 01:32:18,056
Oh, God, it's done, woo-hoo!
1249
01:32:19,657 --> 01:32:21,124
Oh, God.
1250
01:32:21,126 --> 01:32:23,730
Oh, God, wow.
1251
01:32:24,897 --> 01:32:28,768
Oh, my God, I can't
believe what I just witnessed.
1252
01:33:07,171 --> 01:33:10,874
Oh, God.
1253
01:33:10,876 --> 01:33:13,112
Good to see
you again, yay.
1254
01:33:13,912 --> 01:33:16,749
Wow!
1255
01:33:19,084 --> 01:33:21,720
So delighted.
1256
01:33:22,254 --> 01:33:25,425
That felt so good,
it's freaking raged.
1257
01:33:26,291 --> 01:33:29,594
Like a gigantic weight
off of my shoulders too.
1258
01:33:30,229 --> 01:33:32,899
I have to admit, I mean.
1259
01:33:33,565 --> 01:33:38,504
So delighted,
what a journey.
1260
01:33:39,371 --> 01:33:44,710
Yeah, I just can't even believe
after eight years of dreaming,
1261
01:33:46,912 --> 01:33:49,913
oh San-san's calling me.
1262
01:33:49,915 --> 01:33:51,681
Hello?
1263
01:33:54,752 --> 01:33:56,386
Yeah, so delighted.
1264
01:33:56,388 --> 01:33:59,222
Oh my, you're so
delighted, that's putting it lightly.
1265
01:33:59,224 --> 01:34:02,258
I've like never smiled so much.
Don't say anything too.
1266
01:34:02,260 --> 01:34:04,694
I wanna see it.
What's that?
1267
01:34:04,696 --> 01:34:07,097
Like, I told you I
wanted to see that smile.
1268
01:34:07,099 --> 01:34:08,865
Yeah, I know.
1269
01:34:08,867 --> 01:34:12,134
I've like never cried
so hard and I didn't even see it coming.
1270
01:34:12,136 --> 01:34:15,774
Showing that you talk now,
I was just like "Blah."
1271
01:34:16,175 --> 01:34:17,973
Yeah, no,
I'm, I'm sort of at,
1272
01:34:17,975 --> 01:34:20,880
at risk of crying here too, I'm
like, I feel quite emotional.
1273
01:34:21,447 --> 01:34:24,817
Yeah, no, don't cry
San-san it will make me cry.
1274
01:34:26,050 --> 01:34:28,553
But Claire says cry it.
1275
01:34:28,819 --> 01:34:31,053
I think the movie would be better
if I burst into tears, but I,
1276
01:34:31,055 --> 01:34:32,621
I don't really want to.
1277
01:34:32,623 --> 01:34:34,723
But, well I do want
to kind of, but.
1278
01:34:34,725 --> 01:34:37,293
I'm so happy.
1279
01:34:37,295 --> 01:34:38,727
Oh, God.
1280
01:34:38,729 --> 01:34:40,829
I'm so happy.
1281
01:34:40,831 --> 01:34:42,665
Yeah.
1282
01:34:42,667 --> 01:34:45,604
I'm so happy.
1283
01:34:46,737 --> 01:34:47,971
Well, okay.
1284
01:34:47,973 --> 01:34:51,074
I'll see you, I'll see you in
like six hours or something.
1285
01:34:51,076 --> 01:34:53,310
And
I'll see you soon, yeah.
1286
01:34:53,312 --> 01:34:55,078
Yeah, okay, I love you.
1287
01:34:55,080 --> 01:34:56,980
Thank you so much,
I appreciate you.
1288
01:34:56,982 --> 01:34:58,080
I love you too.
1289
01:34:58,082 --> 01:34:59,649
You're, you're the best.
1290
01:34:59,651 --> 01:35:01,250
And I appreciate
you and I'm really proud of you.
1291
01:35:01,252 --> 01:35:02,822
Yay.
1292
01:35:04,255 --> 01:35:05,588
I don't know.
1293
01:35:05,590 --> 01:35:07,089
I don't, I don't think the mountain
looked that scary this morning.
1294
01:35:07,091 --> 01:35:10,226
It's funny because it does look the
same and hiking up looked the same,
1295
01:35:10,228 --> 01:35:12,361
everything just felt pretty much
the same, except I just didn't have
1296
01:35:12,363 --> 01:35:14,798
much of a backpack.
1297
01:35:14,800 --> 01:35:16,999
I did, I forgot
my rope and rack.
1298
01:35:17,001 --> 01:35:18,602
I felt so good.
1299
01:35:18,604 --> 01:35:21,103
I mean that's why I'm so happy that the
experience was like what I hoped for.
1300
01:35:21,105 --> 01:35:23,673
I didn't compromise on any of the
things that were super important to me.
1301
01:35:23,675 --> 01:35:26,045
Huh, yeah, that felt good.
1302
01:35:26,812 --> 01:35:28,611
All right.
1303
01:35:28,613 --> 01:35:31,049
So what's next, what
are you gonna do Alex?
1304
01:35:31,250 --> 01:35:32,816
Mmm, I'm probably
gonna hang board.
1305
01:35:32,818 --> 01:35:34,287
You're gonna hang board?
1306
01:35:34,953 --> 01:35:38,056
A normal person would probably
take the afternoon off.
1307
01:35:49,635 --> 01:35:51,668
Thanks again for
coming out and climbing with me.
1308
01:35:51,670 --> 01:35:53,003
I'm really proud of you.
1309
01:35:53,005 --> 01:35:55,207
Good work not plummeting
to your death.
1310
01:35:56,007 --> 01:35:57,777
Really glad it's over.
1311
01:35:59,077 --> 01:36:02,882
Oh, my gosh,
you're here, oh, my God!
1312
01:36:04,983 --> 01:36:08,988
Oh, my gosh, I'm so happy
for you, you did it and you're done.
1313
01:36:10,956 --> 01:36:13,022
You know some of the people
that have come before you,
1314
01:36:13,024 --> 01:36:15,691
they, they didn't quit
while they were ahead.
1315
01:36:15,693 --> 01:36:17,093
Maybe it's good.
1316
01:36:17,095 --> 01:36:19,699
Maybe I don't need to
keep charging ahead.
1317
01:36:20,198 --> 01:36:23,199
Right now there's some kid that just read
about El Cap being soloed and he's like.
1318
01:36:23,201 --> 01:36:24,700
"What's bigger?"
1319
01:36:24,702 --> 01:36:26,235
Like "What's cooler?"
1320
01:36:26,237 --> 01:36:29,039
And I mean somebody's gonna think of
something and it's gonna be cooler.
1321
01:36:29,041 --> 01:36:33,212
But I don't know if that will be me.
Maybe, I don't know.
1322
01:36:38,707 --> 01:36:43,707
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