Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:01,960
CRICKETS CHIRRUP
2
00:00:01,960 --> 00:00:04,400
OWL HOOTS
3
00:00:05,840 --> 00:00:10,720
This is a series about
the Dark Ages, when civilisation was
4
00:00:10,720 --> 00:00:14,880
said to have stopped and ignorance
flooded the world.
5
00:00:16,920 --> 00:00:20,400
I've been trying to convince
you that it didn't happen,
6
00:00:20,400 --> 00:00:24,680
that the Dark Ages
were a fine era for art.
7
00:00:24,680 --> 00:00:28,240
But in this film,
I am going further.
8
00:00:29,560 --> 00:00:33,200
The art we'll be looking at in this
film is some of the most
9
00:00:33,200 --> 00:00:35,040
sophisticated ever made.
10
00:00:36,200 --> 00:00:40,320
If any art challenges the myth
of the Dark Ages,
11
00:00:40,320 --> 00:00:43,240
it's the art of Islam.
12
00:00:43,240 --> 00:00:46,400
EXPLOSION
13
00:00:46,400 --> 00:00:49,520
HORSE WHINNIES
14
00:01:29,520 --> 00:01:31,800
This is Cordoba in Spain.
15
00:01:31,800 --> 00:01:35,320
That's the great Mosque of Cordoba
up there.
16
00:01:35,320 --> 00:01:41,440
And this handy little
Dark Age gadget is an astrolabe.
17
00:01:41,440 --> 00:01:45,680
Some people call this the first
computer and what this thing
18
00:01:45,680 --> 00:01:51,720
does is calculate exactly where you
are, by using the stars.
19
00:01:54,160 --> 00:01:59,760
Islamic stargazers perfected the
astrolabe in the Dark Ages to
20
00:01:59,760 --> 00:02:06,160
work out the direction of Mecca, so
they always knew which way to pray.
21
00:02:06,160 --> 00:02:10,240
It filled their art
with cosmic patterns.
22
00:02:11,760 --> 00:02:16,200
Later on, I will be showing you how
to use one of these, I hope,
23
00:02:16,200 --> 00:02:20,200
but first we need to travel
back in time to
24
00:02:20,200 --> 00:02:26,160
the beginnings of Islam, to the
first fascinating creations
25
00:02:26,160 --> 00:02:28,560
of Islamic art and architecture.
26
00:02:28,560 --> 00:02:34,080
So right now,
we're here in Cordoba, Spain.
27
00:02:34,080 --> 00:02:36,680
To go back to
the beginnings of Islamic art,
28
00:02:36,680 --> 00:02:41,560
we need to go right across
the Mediterranean to here.
29
00:02:43,480 --> 00:02:45,200
Jerusalem -
30
00:02:45,200 --> 00:02:49,080
the heart of the religious
Dark Ages.
31
00:02:49,080 --> 00:02:52,800
What huge dramas have been
enacted here.
32
00:02:52,800 --> 00:02:56,880
What important art has been created?
33
00:02:56,880 --> 00:03:00,160
Most of it's gone unfortunately,
but not all of it.
34
00:03:00,160 --> 00:03:02,320
Some of it has survived,
35
00:03:02,320 --> 00:03:07,520
notably that magnificent golden dome
on the horizon -
36
00:03:07,520 --> 00:03:09,280
the Dome of the Rock.
37
00:03:12,200 --> 00:03:16,040
It's one of the most significant
buildings ever put up,
38
00:03:16,040 --> 00:03:19,520
a piece of architecture
that changed history.
39
00:03:19,520 --> 00:03:23,920
You couldn't really ask for a more
dramatic location, could you?
40
00:03:23,920 --> 00:03:28,160
If you think it looks good from up
here on the Mount of Olives,
41
00:03:28,160 --> 00:03:30,360
just wait until we get closer.
42
00:03:34,280 --> 00:03:38,680
Mohammed died in 632 AD
43
00:03:38,680 --> 00:03:42,280
and for the first 50 years
or so after his death,
44
00:03:42,280 --> 00:03:45,840
Islam was preoccupied with conquest.
45
00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:52,680
The speed at which the Islamic
empire expanded was remarkable.
46
00:03:52,680 --> 00:03:58,240
In just a few decades, it went from
nothing to gigantic.
47
00:03:58,240 --> 00:04:01,720
It was the most dramatic,
most aggressive
48
00:04:01,720 --> 00:04:06,240
and fastest feat of empire building
the world has seen.
49
00:04:10,520 --> 00:04:16,120
This is the Islamic empire, just 100
years after Mohammed's death.
50
00:04:16,120 --> 00:04:21,200
Up here, the whole of Spain,
all of North Africa,
51
00:04:21,200 --> 00:04:26,400
the entire Middle East, as far
across as the borders of India.
52
00:04:33,520 --> 00:04:37,760
But all this astonishingly
successful conquest, didn't leave
53
00:04:37,760 --> 00:04:40,080
much time for art.
54
00:04:40,080 --> 00:04:44,160
Almost nothing survives
from the first years of Islam.
55
00:04:44,160 --> 00:04:47,880
Clearly, art was not a priority.
56
00:04:47,880 --> 00:04:52,000
And then,
out of nothing, as if by magic,
57
00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:55,880
this appears - the Dome of the Rock.
58
00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:02,920
Nothing in Islamic art
prepares us for this.
59
00:05:02,920 --> 00:05:04,840
It's just suddenly there.
60
00:05:04,840 --> 00:05:11,320
A definitive Islamic creation,
seemingly conjured out of thin air.
61
00:05:12,720 --> 00:05:15,200
It's like a flying saucer
or something,
62
00:05:15,200 --> 00:05:19,880
that's landed out of nowhere and
something you sense immediately,
63
00:05:19,880 --> 00:05:24,960
even from this distance, is
the powerful geometry of it,
64
00:05:24,960 --> 00:05:29,080
that air of mathematical clarity
65
00:05:29,080 --> 00:05:32,760
and that's something that continues
in Islamic architecture.
66
00:05:39,960 --> 00:05:43,720
As you can see, it's an octagon,
it's got eight sides.
67
00:05:43,720 --> 00:05:49,320
Octagons have a special symbolic
presence, because they combine
68
00:05:49,320 --> 00:05:53,160
the geometry of a circle
with the geometry of a square.
69
00:05:54,360 --> 00:06:00,760
I'll show you.
If I draw a circle here...
70
00:06:06,880 --> 00:06:12,560
And then...
two intersecting squares...
71
00:06:15,440 --> 00:06:16,880
..here...
72
00:06:20,600 --> 00:06:21,920
..and here...
73
00:06:25,800 --> 00:06:29,440
The shape they form,
the shape in the middle...
74
00:06:39,440 --> 00:06:41,400
That's the octagon.
75
00:06:45,800 --> 00:06:50,480
The octagon is a surprisingly
popular Dark Age shape with
76
00:06:50,480 --> 00:06:52,960
powerful, sacred meanings.
77
00:06:52,960 --> 00:06:56,840
If the Earth is a square
and heaven is a perfect circle,
78
00:06:56,840 --> 00:07:02,560
the octagon is a symbolic bridge
between the two.
79
00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:07,080
All the proportions of the Dome
of the Rock are meaningful.
80
00:07:07,080 --> 00:07:12,280
So these walls here...
the walls of the octagon...
81
00:07:12,280 --> 00:07:17,680
each of those
is about 20 metres long.
82
00:07:19,520 --> 00:07:25,040
And the Dome in the middle,
the height of that's
83
00:07:25,040 --> 00:07:32,200
again about 20 metres and the
diameter of it's also 20 metres.
84
00:07:32,200 --> 00:07:36,440
All these proportions have
been carefully calculated,
85
00:07:36,440 --> 00:07:37,880
have a purpose.
86
00:07:39,600 --> 00:07:45,480
It's as if the entire building has
been shaped by a divine mathematics.
87
00:07:47,040 --> 00:07:52,200
And those divine mathematics have
given it a sacred meaning.
88
00:07:53,920 --> 00:07:59,160
This location, Temple Mount, is
the holiest spot in Jerusalem.
89
00:07:59,160 --> 00:08:03,400
This is where King Solomon
built the first Jewish temple,
90
00:08:03,400 --> 00:08:07,400
the one destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar
and then Herod, the infamous
91
00:08:07,400 --> 00:08:10,760
King Herod, built the second
temple here as well.
92
00:08:13,680 --> 00:08:18,560
Herod's temple was made
entirely from white marble and was
93
00:08:18,560 --> 00:08:24,040
so huge, it covered 67 acres
of the sacred location.
94
00:08:24,040 --> 00:08:27,640
So grand, so pompous
95
00:08:27,640 --> 00:08:31,800
and to my eyes, so inelegant!
96
00:08:33,400 --> 00:08:37,360
So the Dome of the Rock
sits on layer upon layer
97
00:08:37,360 --> 00:08:40,040
of crucial religious history
98
00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:44,640
and when the Muslims conquered
Jerusalem in 638 AD
99
00:08:44,640 --> 00:08:47,720
and claimed this site for Islam,
they took possession
100
00:08:47,720 --> 00:08:53,440
of what is probably the most loaded
religious spot on Earth.
101
00:08:53,440 --> 00:08:55,600
And that's just the outside!
102
00:09:00,520 --> 00:09:05,360
For me, this mysterious interior is
one of the most atmospheric
103
00:09:05,360 --> 00:09:08,840
achievements of the Dark Ages.
104
00:09:08,840 --> 00:09:14,000
There's something so haunting about
the way the light works in here,
105
00:09:14,000 --> 00:09:16,520
the shimmer of the mosaics,
106
00:09:16,520 --> 00:09:19,680
the whispers of the calligraphy.
107
00:09:26,680 --> 00:09:29,840
Basically, it's a circular shrine.
108
00:09:29,840 --> 00:09:31,080
It's not a mosque,
109
00:09:31,080 --> 00:09:36,680
it's a place of pilgrimage that has
been built around a sacred site.
110
00:09:36,680 --> 00:09:42,880
The site it's all been built around
is the site of this holy rock here.
111
00:09:44,920 --> 00:09:49,040
The Jews believe this is the
rock on which Abraham prepared to
112
00:09:49,040 --> 00:09:51,640
sacrifice his son, Isaac.
113
00:09:52,920 --> 00:09:56,600
And the Ark of the Covenant is
thought to lie hidden
114
00:09:56,600 --> 00:09:58,720
somewhere underneath, as well.
115
00:10:03,880 --> 00:10:06,080
SPEAKING SOFTLY: Islam has a
different tradition.
116
00:10:06,080 --> 00:10:09,280
Islam believes this is the holy rock
117
00:10:09,280 --> 00:10:13,960
from which the prophet Mohammed set
off on his great night journey
118
00:10:13,960 --> 00:10:15,640
to heaven.
119
00:10:15,640 --> 00:10:19,200
The angel Gabriel came to visit
Mohammed at Mecca
120
00:10:19,200 --> 00:10:21,360
and brought him here to Jerusalem.
121
00:10:21,360 --> 00:10:26,480
From this rock, the prophet ascended
to heaven and there,
122
00:10:26,480 --> 00:10:32,360
in paradise, he met God
and God instructed him
123
00:10:32,360 --> 00:10:35,080
on the Muslim duty of prayer.
124
00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,720
So this holy rock,
like the architecture around it,
125
00:10:42,720 --> 00:10:47,400
is a point of contact
between man and God
126
00:10:47,400 --> 00:10:51,080
and that's the religious
message of the whole building.
127
00:10:52,560 --> 00:10:55,080
If you saw the first
film in this series,
128
00:10:55,080 --> 00:10:59,600
you'll recognise this shape,
because we've seen it before.
129
00:10:59,600 --> 00:11:04,760
This type of encircling
architecture, built over a precious
130
00:11:04,760 --> 00:11:10,280
site, something we found in the
round churches at Byzantium.
131
00:11:10,280 --> 00:11:13,400
Remember, San Vitale in Ravenna
132
00:11:13,400 --> 00:11:16,480
and Santa Costanza in Rome.
133
00:11:19,840 --> 00:11:24,040
The Muslim Caliph Abd al-Malik
who built the Dome of the Rock was
134
00:11:24,040 --> 00:11:28,760
deliberately taking on the
architecture of the Christians.
135
00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:34,360
This round shape, the proportions,
none of it was an accident.
136
00:11:37,160 --> 00:11:43,000
Abd al-Malik also added an explicit
inscription, which runs all the
137
00:11:43,000 --> 00:11:49,440
way round, which gives the date on
which the dome was finished -
138
00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:55,160
691 AD. It also includes a stern
message to the Christians.
139
00:11:56,680 --> 00:12:02,160
"O, you people of the Book", it
says, meaning the Bible.
140
00:12:02,160 --> 00:12:06,440
"Jesus is only a messenger of God.
141
00:12:06,440 --> 00:12:09,560
"God is only one God."
142
00:12:12,200 --> 00:12:17,320
It's a deliberate challenge to the
Christians. Jesus is just a prophet.
143
00:12:17,320 --> 00:12:21,720
There's only one God
and Gods don't have sons.
144
00:12:21,720 --> 00:12:26,480
This entire building is
taking on Christianity.
145
00:12:28,600 --> 00:12:30,080
Look at that!
146
00:12:30,080 --> 00:12:35,880
Floor to ceiling is covered
in the most exquisite mosaics.
147
00:12:35,880 --> 00:12:40,600
Gold and green...
there's a palm tree
148
00:12:40,600 --> 00:12:43,880
and these beautiful jewelled crowns.
149
00:12:43,880 --> 00:12:49,640
And all the pieces of the mosaic
are set at different angles,
150
00:12:49,640 --> 00:12:53,200
so they reflect the light
differently at different times
151
00:12:53,200 --> 00:12:59,600
of day and all this,
all these glorious mosaics,
152
00:12:59,600 --> 00:13:04,760
were intended to the evoke
a vision of paradise.
153
00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:12,240
"When you look there in paradise",
says the Koran,
154
00:13:12,240 --> 00:13:15,920
"you will see delights
that cannot be imagined.
155
00:13:15,920 --> 00:13:18,720
"Fruits of every kind
156
00:13:18,720 --> 00:13:21,000
"and all that you ask for."
157
00:13:23,120 --> 00:13:27,040
At a stroke,
Islam had invented for itself
158
00:13:27,040 --> 00:13:30,280
an unmistakable new architecture.
159
00:13:30,280 --> 00:13:34,640
And at the centre
of this new architecture,
160
00:13:34,640 --> 00:13:36,760
was a vision of paradise.
161
00:13:44,960 --> 00:13:49,720
The Islamic paradise is a green
and verdant alternative to
162
00:13:49,720 --> 00:13:54,040
the harsh desert landscape
in which Islam was born.
163
00:13:54,040 --> 00:13:59,200
These are lands where water is
precious and so is hope.
164
00:14:03,640 --> 00:14:07,480
Just a few years after
the Dome of the Rock was finished,
165
00:14:07,480 --> 00:14:13,040
the Umayyad Caliphs in Damascus gave
the world another wonderful Islamic
166
00:14:13,040 --> 00:14:16,840
structure - the Damascus Mosque.
167
00:14:16,840 --> 00:14:20,080
I think it's one of the most
exciting buildings
168
00:14:20,080 --> 00:14:21,400
I've ever been in.
169
00:14:23,320 --> 00:14:25,400
And look what's on the walls.
170
00:14:26,720 --> 00:14:30,240
Inside the fabulous Damascus Mosque,
171
00:14:30,240 --> 00:14:35,760
the Umayyad Caliphs set out
actually to describe paradise.
172
00:14:37,080 --> 00:14:41,240
And to surround the Islamic
pilgrim with delightful
173
00:14:41,240 --> 00:14:43,880
and irresistible visions of it.
174
00:14:45,320 --> 00:14:49,840
It's one of Islam's
most dramatic artistic moments.
175
00:14:49,840 --> 00:14:53,120
These are the joys
that await us in heaven.
176
00:14:53,120 --> 00:14:56,960
These are the beautiful cities
in which we'll live
177
00:14:56,960 --> 00:14:59,800
and this is the water,
178
00:14:59,800 --> 00:15:03,440
the cool and endless water,
that we'll drink.
179
00:15:11,920 --> 00:15:15,440
Those magnificent images
of paradise in the Great Mosque
180
00:15:15,440 --> 00:15:20,720
at Damascus are like images of a
wonderful oasis in the desert,
181
00:15:20,720 --> 00:15:24,400
water, palm trees, flowers -
182
00:15:24,400 --> 00:15:27,440
everything that's so hard
to find out here
183
00:15:27,440 --> 00:15:34,720
and the Islamic paradise promises
so many pleasures in the next life
184
00:15:34,720 --> 00:15:39,160
to the true believer -
all you can drink, all you can eat
185
00:15:39,160 --> 00:15:41,920
and all you can dream of.
186
00:15:49,280 --> 00:15:51,280
This is Qusayr Amra.
187
00:15:51,280 --> 00:15:55,760
It's one of the desert palaces which
the Umayyad rulers of Damascus
188
00:15:55,760 --> 00:15:58,680
built out here
to get away from the city -
189
00:15:58,680 --> 00:16:01,600
its heat and its pressures.
190
00:16:04,040 --> 00:16:07,920
No-one's certain which of the
Umayyad princes chose this
191
00:16:07,920 --> 00:16:10,680
distant desert location.
192
00:16:10,680 --> 00:16:15,640
Was it the Caliph Al-Walid the First
or Al-Walid the Second?
193
00:16:15,640 --> 00:16:20,680
What is sure is why
they chose this particular spot.
194
00:16:22,040 --> 00:16:24,800
Qusayr Amra is built in a wadi -
195
00:16:24,800 --> 00:16:29,440
the Wadi Al Battum - and wadis are
desert valleys that fill up
196
00:16:29,440 --> 00:16:31,280
seasonally with water.
197
00:16:31,280 --> 00:16:35,680
So when it rains in the desert,
the precious water floods through
198
00:16:35,680 --> 00:16:37,920
the wadi and fertilises it.
199
00:16:41,520 --> 00:16:45,600
Round the back of the building,
over here, the various
200
00:16:45,600 --> 00:16:51,480
contraptions for channelling this
water through the palace,
201
00:16:51,480 --> 00:16:59,200
because, believe it or not, what you
have before you here is a bathhouse!
202
00:17:02,560 --> 00:17:06,880
Qusayr Amra is a bathing
establishment in the desert -
203
00:17:06,880 --> 00:17:12,680
one of the earliest surviving
secular buildings of Islam.
204
00:17:17,440 --> 00:17:21,640
The reason we've driven all this way
across the desert to find it is
205
00:17:21,640 --> 00:17:26,400
because this fabulous bath house
in the sands has something
206
00:17:26,400 --> 00:17:32,160
remarkable inside it, something
you'd never expect to find here.
207
00:17:33,760 --> 00:17:38,480
Floor to ceiling Islamic frescoes.
208
00:17:41,000 --> 00:17:45,080
A troupe of acrobats
gives a busy performance
209
00:17:45,080 --> 00:17:49,280
and there's a bear
strumming a lute.
210
00:17:49,280 --> 00:17:51,920
There's so much going on in here.
211
00:17:53,760 --> 00:17:57,760
And a group of statuesque
female dancers,
212
00:17:57,760 --> 00:18:01,200
show off their figures
and their beauty.
213
00:18:05,480 --> 00:18:08,680
The dancing girls
are particularly surprising.
214
00:18:08,680 --> 00:18:12,440
We're just not used to Islamic
imagery as abandoned as this,
215
00:18:12,440 --> 00:18:15,280
but it's important to remember
this is just
216
00:18:15,280 --> 00:18:19,440
as old and just as traditional as
everything else we've seen.
217
00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:23,160
This, too, is a precious
Islamic heritage.
218
00:18:25,160 --> 00:18:30,240
A negative way to understand
Qusayr Amra's remarkable frescoes
219
00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:35,120
is to see them as signs
of moral relaxation.
220
00:18:35,120 --> 00:18:40,440
Away from Damascus, deep in the
desert, a wayward Umayyad prince
221
00:18:40,440 --> 00:18:46,200
is indulging an appetite for wine
and music and women.
222
00:18:50,480 --> 00:18:52,800
But I don't think
that is what it's about.
223
00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:56,240
If we go back to the many
descriptions of paradise in the
224
00:18:56,240 --> 00:19:01,920
Koran, there are constant references
to the pleasures available there.
225
00:19:01,920 --> 00:19:07,280
Rivers of wine served in crystal
cups, beautiful flowers,
226
00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:10,920
beautiful jewels
and beautiful girls.
227
00:19:13,480 --> 00:19:17,360
"For the righteous", says the Koran,
"there shall be gardens
228
00:19:17,360 --> 00:19:22,640
"and vineyards and high-bosomed
virgins for companions,
229
00:19:22,640 --> 00:19:28,240
"dark eyed and bashful,
as fair as corals and rubies."
230
00:19:30,280 --> 00:19:35,480
Inside here is the caldarium -
the hot room.
231
00:19:35,480 --> 00:19:40,120
In here the Umayyad prince would
soak himself in hot water,
232
00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:44,200
heated up by all those gubbins
we saw outside and as he lay
233
00:19:44,200 --> 00:19:50,320
here in his bath, the Umayyad prince
would stare up at the Dome
234
00:19:50,320 --> 00:19:54,040
where he'd see something wondrous -
235
00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:58,040
an evocation of the stars at night.
236
00:20:01,000 --> 00:20:04,720
This is the earliest known
Islamic star chart,
237
00:20:04,720 --> 00:20:07,200
painted onto the dome at
Qusayr Amra.
238
00:20:08,520 --> 00:20:12,160
Around the edge are
the 12 signs of the Zodiac.
239
00:20:13,320 --> 00:20:14,960
And in the middle,
240
00:20:14,960 --> 00:20:19,600
frescoed representations
of the constellations.
241
00:20:19,600 --> 00:20:21,760
The Great Bear,
242
00:20:21,760 --> 00:20:23,320
the Little bear.
243
00:20:24,760 --> 00:20:28,720
What a thing to find in
an eighth century bathhouse,
244
00:20:28,720 --> 00:20:32,720
a fabulous image of the heavens
at night above your head.
245
00:20:32,720 --> 00:20:36,640
It's as if someone has taken
the roof off the dome
246
00:20:36,640 --> 00:20:40,120
and looked out into
the sky at night in the desert,
247
00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:41,880
full of twinkling stars.
248
00:20:42,880 --> 00:20:44,800
What a beautiful idea.
249
00:20:55,080 --> 00:20:57,640
It takes a bit of
getting to Qusayr Amra
250
00:20:57,640 --> 00:21:01,720
but I wanted to make it clear right
from the start that Islamic art,
251
00:21:01,720 --> 00:21:04,480
with its beginnings
in the Dark Ages,
252
00:21:04,480 --> 00:21:07,600
has this sensuous dimension to it,
253
00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:13,080
a relationship to pleasure that
you just don't find in other art.
254
00:21:16,720 --> 00:21:21,160
Scattered across this great
Syrian Desert are the remains
255
00:21:21,160 --> 00:21:23,520
of fantastical Umayyad palaces,
256
00:21:23,520 --> 00:21:27,400
filled once with beautiful mosaics
257
00:21:27,400 --> 00:21:30,000
and marvellous colonnades.
258
00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:35,920
What tangible sensuousness you find
here in this first Islamic art.
259
00:21:42,160 --> 00:21:46,160
These eighth century desert palaces
must once have been filled
260
00:21:46,160 --> 00:21:48,520
with the accoutrements of pleasure -
261
00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:52,440
vases, hangings, plates and cups,
262
00:21:52,440 --> 00:21:54,800
almost all of which
have disappeared.
263
00:21:57,640 --> 00:22:00,560
But in 1986, here in Jordan,
264
00:22:00,560 --> 00:22:02,800
they dug up this.
265
00:22:02,800 --> 00:22:06,960
It's an eighth century
Islamic brazier
266
00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:08,680
and it gives us a tiny hint
267
00:22:08,680 --> 00:22:12,880
of what life was like
in the Qusayr Amra bathhouse.
268
00:22:15,800 --> 00:22:19,680
The brazier was used to heat up
the prince's room
269
00:22:19,680 --> 00:22:22,280
and for burning incense.
270
00:22:22,280 --> 00:22:26,840
Originally there were wheels on it
and it could be wheeled around
271
00:22:26,840 --> 00:22:30,520
from room to room
to fill them with sweet smells.
272
00:22:31,920 --> 00:22:34,160
It's made of iron and bronze
273
00:22:34,160 --> 00:22:37,800
and at the front here, as you can
see, there are these arches
274
00:22:37,800 --> 00:22:40,200
a little bit like
the ones in Qusayr Amra,
275
00:22:40,200 --> 00:22:46,280
and inside the arches are scenes of
lovemaking and couples canoodling,
276
00:22:46,280 --> 00:22:50,560
and it's all so atmospheric
and so beautifully done.
277
00:22:50,560 --> 00:22:53,080
Look at these eagles at the bottom,
278
00:22:53,080 --> 00:22:56,440
the way they've been shaped,
their wings, their feathers.
279
00:22:58,080 --> 00:23:01,880
This is metalwork
of the highest quality.
280
00:23:04,120 --> 00:23:08,920
At the four corners, four cuddly
nudes prepared to release
281
00:23:08,920 --> 00:23:13,760
a small bird into the
incense-filled air above them.
282
00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:19,800
And there's a floaty feeling
to this marvellous metalwork.
283
00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:23,560
What a beautiful thing.
284
00:23:23,560 --> 00:23:25,560
And the figurative sculptures
you see here,
285
00:23:25,560 --> 00:23:28,800
the female figures are, again,
very surprising
286
00:23:28,800 --> 00:23:33,080
because this is an is aspect
of Islamic art that was there
at the start,
287
00:23:33,080 --> 00:23:36,920
that is very traditional, but which
modern Islam often forgets.
288
00:23:39,240 --> 00:23:43,760
The beautiful brazier was an object
of private delectation.
289
00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:45,880
It had no religious purpose.
290
00:23:47,160 --> 00:23:51,720
But it's important to remember
that sensuality played a role
291
00:23:51,720 --> 00:23:53,720
in the art of these times.
292
00:23:53,720 --> 00:23:58,000
In the beginning, this was
Islamic art too,
293
00:23:58,000 --> 00:24:00,200
and this,
294
00:24:00,200 --> 00:24:02,160
and this.
295
00:24:06,560 --> 00:24:11,560
When joy was called for,
Islamic art inspired great joy.
296
00:24:12,640 --> 00:24:15,880
And when sobriety
was more appropriate,
297
00:24:15,880 --> 00:24:18,040
it achieved great sobriety.
298
00:24:21,200 --> 00:24:24,800
This is the finest early mosque
in Cairo,
299
00:24:24,800 --> 00:24:27,240
the mosque of ibn Tulun.
300
00:24:28,520 --> 00:24:31,360
I like everything about it,
301
00:24:31,360 --> 00:24:36,120
but most of all I admire
its architectural seriousness.
302
00:24:37,600 --> 00:24:40,600
The way you know,
as soon as you step in here,
303
00:24:40,600 --> 00:24:46,040
that this is a space devoted
to important understandings.
304
00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:54,240
Ahmed ibn Tulun who founded
this mosque in 879 AD
305
00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:58,360
was the son of a Turkish slave,
who became governor of Egypt.
306
00:24:58,360 --> 00:25:02,680
Originally the mosque stood
at the centre of a new city
307
00:25:02,680 --> 00:25:06,640
that ibn Tulun also founded,
the city of Al-Qatta'i.
308
00:25:07,800 --> 00:25:10,960
But Al-Qatta'i was destroyed
in the 10th century.
309
00:25:10,960 --> 00:25:13,840
This is all that's left of it.
310
00:25:17,120 --> 00:25:19,600
They say ibn Tulun chose this site
311
00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:22,720
because this is where
Noah's Ark came to rest.
312
00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:26,800
There was certainly water here,
313
00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:31,440
that domed creation in the centre
is the ablutions fountain,
314
00:25:31,440 --> 00:25:35,360
where all Muslims must wash
themselves before prayers.
315
00:25:36,720 --> 00:25:39,000
All mosques, not just this one,
316
00:25:39,000 --> 00:25:41,600
are based on the very first mosque
317
00:25:41,600 --> 00:25:44,880
which was the prophet's
own house in Medina.
318
00:25:44,880 --> 00:25:49,000
It was a typical mud brick dwelling,
with a courtyard,
319
00:25:49,000 --> 00:25:53,200
and in that courtyard the
prophet's followers would gather
320
00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:54,720
to hear him speak.
321
00:25:54,720 --> 00:25:59,320
So, all these great
courtyards of Islam,
322
00:25:59,320 --> 00:26:04,560
all of them, are descended directly
from the prophet's own courtyard.
323
00:26:07,440 --> 00:26:11,960
Their evocative sparseness is
an echo of their origins.
324
00:26:13,240 --> 00:26:17,600
Their sun-baked simplicity
has been there from the start.
325
00:26:19,520 --> 00:26:21,640
The walls that encircle you here
326
00:26:21,640 --> 00:26:25,240
are like the walls of
the prophet's own courtyard.
327
00:26:25,240 --> 00:26:30,160
Their task is to keep the outside
world at bay,
328
00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:32,120
and here at ibn Tulun,
329
00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:38,160
there's actually two sets of walls,
a kind of double glazing
330
00:26:38,160 --> 00:26:41,880
that separates you from
the hustle and bustle out there.
331
00:26:44,880 --> 00:26:49,760
I like these playful crenulations
arranged along the top as well.
332
00:26:51,040 --> 00:26:52,960
They look like paper cut-outs,
333
00:26:52,960 --> 00:26:55,760
something my daughter
might have made.
334
00:26:58,360 --> 00:27:01,160
To protect his followers
from the sun
335
00:27:01,160 --> 00:27:05,920
the prophet built a simple shelter
at the end of his courtyard
336
00:27:05,920 --> 00:27:10,120
with a roof made out of
palm branches and leaves.
337
00:27:10,120 --> 00:27:16,040
That simple shelter was the
inspiration for these great arcades
338
00:27:16,040 --> 00:27:20,280
which still protect the prophet's
followers from the sun.
339
00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:27,160
The shelters in his courtyard
were also used
340
00:27:27,160 --> 00:27:30,920
as somewhere to meet
and discuss community affairs.
341
00:27:34,000 --> 00:27:36,840
And that marvellous
communal atmosphere
342
00:27:36,840 --> 00:27:40,840
of a space with many purposes is
something else that survives
343
00:27:40,840 --> 00:27:43,760
to this day in the Islamic mosque.
344
00:27:47,880 --> 00:27:51,840
The largest covered space
was the prayer hall, which
345
00:27:51,840 --> 00:27:56,440
was basically the prophet's own
house at the end of the courtyard.
346
00:27:56,440 --> 00:28:03,440
Every prayer hall today is
a continuation of this marvellous
Islamic sense.
347
00:28:03,440 --> 00:28:07,480
Underneath all this mighty
religious architecture
348
00:28:07,480 --> 00:28:10,880
you can still feel
the humble presence
349
00:28:10,880 --> 00:28:13,160
of the prophet's own dwelling.
350
00:28:15,200 --> 00:28:18,800
These prayer halls are so welcoming,
351
00:28:18,800 --> 00:28:22,800
they have a sense of
the living room about them.
352
00:28:22,800 --> 00:28:24,160
A home from home.
353
00:28:27,880 --> 00:28:33,000
Most mosques are square
or rectangular in plan
354
00:28:33,000 --> 00:28:37,120
and that's because they're all
arranged in relation
355
00:28:37,120 --> 00:28:41,240
to this wall here,
which is called the Qibla wall.
356
00:28:44,720 --> 00:28:48,320
The Qibla wall indicates
the direction of Mecca.
357
00:28:49,440 --> 00:28:54,200
In Arabic the word Qibla
means direction.
358
00:28:54,200 --> 00:28:58,720
And in Mohammed's house
a simple spear stuck in the ground
359
00:28:58,720 --> 00:29:00,920
would mark the way to pray.
360
00:29:04,560 --> 00:29:08,800
The centre of the Qibla wall
is marked by the mihrab
361
00:29:08,800 --> 00:29:12,000
which is always the most
ornate part of the wall.
362
00:29:12,000 --> 00:29:13,840
Usually a niche.
363
00:29:15,320 --> 00:29:19,520
These niches were probably
inspired by the culminating niches
364
00:29:19,520 --> 00:29:23,600
of Byzantine churches,
Christian architecture.
365
00:29:25,200 --> 00:29:30,160
To the right of the mihrab
is the minbar or pulpit
366
00:29:30,160 --> 00:29:33,560
and this is based, once again,
on the prophet's own house.
367
00:29:35,920 --> 00:29:39,040
They say that when Mohammed
had gathered
368
00:29:39,040 --> 00:29:42,880
so many followers he could
no longer be heard by everyone
369
00:29:42,880 --> 00:29:47,080
he stepped up onto
some blocks of wood
370
00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:49,680
and those are the origins of
the minbar.
371
00:29:53,920 --> 00:29:58,000
How fascinating that all
the great mosques of Islam
372
00:29:58,000 --> 00:30:04,000
inherited their wonderful clarity,
their simplicity and their
373
00:30:04,000 --> 00:30:09,680
underlying sacred geometry from
the humble house of the prophet.
374
00:30:10,680 --> 00:30:14,800
Look at all that wonderful stucco
work around the arches,
375
00:30:14,800 --> 00:30:17,440
all that repetition and variety,
376
00:30:17,440 --> 00:30:20,360
this is art used in
a different way,
377
00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:24,600
not to illustrate something
but to create a visual rhythm.
378
00:30:27,960 --> 00:30:33,080
Christian churches are full of
pictures that tell you stories
379
00:30:33,080 --> 00:30:37,200
but there are no pictures in
these great Islamic interiors.
380
00:30:38,200 --> 00:30:42,080
The decoration here
communicates in other ways.
381
00:30:43,680 --> 00:30:46,680
There's a sense of
endlessness to it.
382
00:30:46,680 --> 00:30:49,240
It develops in all directions.
383
00:30:50,600 --> 00:30:54,440
And it makes you feel part of
something that's bigger than you.
384
00:30:58,160 --> 00:30:59,840
So there are no pictures.
385
00:30:59,840 --> 00:31:04,600
Instead, all the way round
runs this Koranic inscription,
386
00:31:04,600 --> 00:31:06,520
carved into wood.
387
00:31:07,440 --> 00:31:10,120
You know I said this mosque
was built on the site
388
00:31:10,120 --> 00:31:13,320
when Noah's Ark was said
to have come to rest,
389
00:31:13,320 --> 00:31:17,360
another story they tell here
is that this Koranic inscription
390
00:31:17,360 --> 00:31:21,680
is carved on the actual
wood from Noah's Ark.
391
00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:26,680
At the mosque of ibn Tulun
392
00:31:26,680 --> 00:31:31,880
the Koranic inscription runs for
two kilometres around the building,
393
00:31:31,880 --> 00:31:37,840
that's 1/15th of the entire
Koran written up on these walls.
394
00:31:39,680 --> 00:31:44,240
This is the Word of God in its
most sacred and purest form.
395
00:31:46,720 --> 00:31:49,200
The power of the word is
one of the great
396
00:31:49,200 --> 00:31:53,280
creative obsessions
of the Dark Ages.
397
00:31:53,280 --> 00:31:57,000
And in the
Metropolitan Museum in New York,
398
00:31:57,000 --> 00:32:00,400
the most beguiling
of the first Korans,
399
00:32:00,400 --> 00:32:03,120
the so-called Blue Koran,
400
00:32:03,120 --> 00:32:07,920
turns the words of God
into such glorious art.
401
00:32:22,960 --> 00:32:25,560
Don't know if you remember
the building of the Aswan Dam
402
00:32:25,560 --> 00:32:29,800
in the 1960s?
It was rather controversial,
403
00:32:29,800 --> 00:32:32,760
the president of Egypt,
President Nasser,
404
00:32:32,760 --> 00:32:36,960
joined up with the Russians
to build a dam across the Nile,
405
00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:41,080
and various archaeological sites
were lost forever,
406
00:32:41,080 --> 00:32:45,000
or had to be moved to
new locations, stone-by-stone.
407
00:32:45,000 --> 00:32:50,120
All sorts of ecological disasters
were predicted for the dam.
408
00:32:50,120 --> 00:32:52,960
Most of which haven't happened.
409
00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,000
The conquest of water
410
00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:02,760
was another of Islam's great
achievements in the Dark Ages.
411
00:33:04,000 --> 00:33:09,120
In Cairo, the Nile would
overflow its banks every summer
412
00:33:09,120 --> 00:33:12,360
and the agriculture
of the entire Nile Delta
413
00:33:12,360 --> 00:33:15,960
depended on the success
of this fertile flooding.
414
00:33:18,320 --> 00:33:21,680
Thick black silt,
rich with nutrients,
415
00:33:21,680 --> 00:33:24,360
would be deposited
across the flood plain,
416
00:33:24,360 --> 00:33:27,120
ensuring a splendid harvest.
417
00:33:27,120 --> 00:33:29,160
That was in the good years.
418
00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:33,040
In the bad years, the levels
were either too low,
419
00:33:33,040 --> 00:33:34,920
which meant disaster,
420
00:33:34,920 --> 00:33:38,760
or too high,
which also meant disaster.
421
00:33:38,760 --> 00:33:43,520
The Aswan Dam was built
to control that process,
422
00:33:43,520 --> 00:33:47,200
so, you might wonder,
what did they do before?
423
00:33:51,120 --> 00:33:55,680
In Islamic times they used this -
the celebrated Nilometer
424
00:33:55,680 --> 00:33:58,360
of Rhoda Island on the Nile.
425
00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:02,760
Opened for business in 861 AD,
426
00:34:02,760 --> 00:34:06,880
it's one of the oldest
Islamic monuments in Egypt.
427
00:34:08,160 --> 00:34:12,600
And what dramatic evidence it
offers of the aquatic brilliance
428
00:34:12,600 --> 00:34:14,840
of Islam's engineers.
429
00:34:16,320 --> 00:34:21,720
What this thing does is measure
the height of the Nile flood.
430
00:34:21,720 --> 00:34:23,880
It's basically a big well,
431
00:34:23,880 --> 00:34:27,480
sunk some ten metres under
the level of the river.
432
00:34:27,480 --> 00:34:31,560
In the middle is an octagonal
marble column,
433
00:34:31,560 --> 00:34:35,800
a kind of giant ruler which,
as you can see,
434
00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:39,120
is marked off at different heights.
435
00:34:42,000 --> 00:34:46,440
The measurements are in cubits and
one cubit is about half a metre,
436
00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:52,400
so around 16 cubits
is the perfect flood.
437
00:34:52,400 --> 00:34:55,280
Fertile, controllable.
438
00:34:55,280 --> 00:35:01,120
Below 16 cubits there's not enough
water, so famine conditions ahead,
439
00:35:01,120 --> 00:35:05,680
and higher up,
once we get past 19 cubits,
440
00:35:05,680 --> 00:35:10,040
that's really bad,
a catastrophic flood.
441
00:35:14,520 --> 00:35:19,360
Islamic authorities in Cairo
used the great Nilometer
442
00:35:19,360 --> 00:35:22,600
to calculate
their annual tax demands.
443
00:35:24,840 --> 00:35:28,160
The perfect flood
meant perfect profits ahead.
444
00:35:29,760 --> 00:35:32,720
Thus, this brilliant piece of design
445
00:35:32,720 --> 00:35:37,520
was an early Islamic alternative
to the pocket calculator.
446
00:35:39,760 --> 00:35:42,080
Before they'd built
the Aswan Dam,
447
00:35:42,080 --> 00:35:47,760
these tunnels here led off into
the Nile at three different levels.
448
00:35:47,760 --> 00:35:52,000
So if they weren't closed off now,
I would be under water.
449
00:35:53,200 --> 00:35:57,920
Look at those pointed arches
above the tunnels.
450
00:35:57,920 --> 00:36:01,360
That's pure Gothic, 400 years early.
451
00:36:05,560 --> 00:36:10,600
The Nilometer was designed
by the famed Persian astronomer
452
00:36:10,600 --> 00:36:15,720
Abu al-Abbas Ahmad ibn Muhammad
ibn Kathir al-Farghani,
453
00:36:15,720 --> 00:36:18,400
better known to us
by his Latin name, Alfraganus.
454
00:36:22,360 --> 00:36:26,040
Alfraganus's most famous
achievement as an astronomer
455
00:36:26,040 --> 00:36:29,080
was calculating
the diameter of the Earth.
456
00:36:29,080 --> 00:36:32,080
Copernicus was said
to have used his results.
457
00:36:32,080 --> 00:36:35,320
There's even a crater on the moon
named after him,
458
00:36:35,320 --> 00:36:36,960
the Alfraganus Crater.
459
00:36:39,120 --> 00:36:41,960
But it isn't just science
that created this,
460
00:36:41,960 --> 00:36:45,160
and it isn't just commerce either.
461
00:36:45,160 --> 00:36:46,520
All the way round,
462
00:36:46,520 --> 00:36:50,680
there are also these beautiful
Koranic inscriptions,
463
00:36:50,680 --> 00:36:52,720
in a lovely Kufic script.
464
00:36:54,080 --> 00:36:57,040
"Thou seest the Earth
barren and lifeless...",
465
00:36:57,040 --> 00:36:59,760
it says, at the 17 cubit mark.
466
00:37:00,840 --> 00:37:04,840
"..But when we pour rain on it,
it is stirred to life".
467
00:37:08,120 --> 00:37:12,840
At the Nilometer in Cairo,
science, commerce and faith
468
00:37:12,840 --> 00:37:17,040
have combined
in a uniquely Islamic fashion
469
00:37:17,040 --> 00:37:20,400
to create a technological wonder.
470
00:37:20,400 --> 00:37:26,080
This entire series is about
how the Dark Ages weren't dark.
471
00:37:26,080 --> 00:37:28,680
But sometimes, I should just shut up
472
00:37:28,680 --> 00:37:31,640
and let you see the proof
for yourselves,
473
00:37:31,640 --> 00:37:34,280
because it couldn't be more obvious.
474
00:37:36,520 --> 00:37:38,600
CALL TO PRAYER
475
00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:46,520
This is Kairouan in Tunisia.
476
00:37:47,680 --> 00:37:50,720
Once,
this was a city of enormous power,
477
00:37:50,720 --> 00:37:55,400
the most important Islamic outpost
in North Africa.
478
00:37:55,400 --> 00:37:58,320
Now, it's a marvellous place
to visit
479
00:37:58,320 --> 00:38:01,240
for any true student
of the Dark Ages.
480
00:38:03,840 --> 00:38:07,960
Kairouan, they say, was
founded by the great Arab warrior,
481
00:38:07,960 --> 00:38:12,160
Sidi Uqba ibn Nafi,
who conquered these parts for Islam
482
00:38:12,160 --> 00:38:15,600
just 50 years after the death
of the Prophet.
483
00:38:16,600 --> 00:38:20,240
When Sidi Uqba got here,
this was all desert.
484
00:38:20,240 --> 00:38:23,600
But something made him pause
and look down at his feet.
485
00:38:25,160 --> 00:38:27,320
When Sidi looked down,
486
00:38:27,320 --> 00:38:32,480
he saw a miraculous spring
of fresh water bubbling up,
487
00:38:32,480 --> 00:38:34,720
and in that water, a golden cup
488
00:38:34,720 --> 00:38:39,440
which he had lost many years
before at the holy spring in Mecca.
489
00:38:40,640 --> 00:38:44,160
The underground waters
seemed to have carried it here.
490
00:38:44,160 --> 00:38:46,840
So it was clearly a sign.
491
00:38:46,840 --> 00:38:52,240
And on this holy spot,
Sidi Uqba founded Kairouan.
492
00:38:58,080 --> 00:39:02,080
At the centre of the new city,
he built a new mosque,
493
00:39:02,080 --> 00:39:04,640
the oldest such mosque
in North Africa.
494
00:39:06,080 --> 00:39:09,160
From the outside,
there's not much sign of it.
495
00:39:09,160 --> 00:39:13,960
Islam isn't a religion
that flaunts itself in the streets.
496
00:39:13,960 --> 00:39:18,000
But when you get inside
into the great courtyard
497
00:39:18,000 --> 00:39:22,480
of the Sidi Uqba Mosque,
what a powerful sight awaits you.
498
00:39:26,200 --> 00:39:29,680
Another practical use for these
great mosque courtyards,
499
00:39:29,680 --> 00:39:31,880
particularly here in Kairouan,
where it is so dry,
500
00:39:31,880 --> 00:39:34,960
is for collecting water.
501
00:39:34,960 --> 00:39:39,080
When it rains, all the water is
channelled down here to the centre.
502
00:39:40,160 --> 00:39:45,360
See these decorative openings? They
actually have a practical purpose.
503
00:39:45,360 --> 00:39:47,320
When the water flows through them,
504
00:39:47,320 --> 00:39:52,560
all these arabesques filter out the
impurities, the dust, the feathers.
505
00:39:52,560 --> 00:39:55,040
Then the water, pure and clean,
506
00:39:55,040 --> 00:39:58,080
is saved below
in two giant cisterns,
507
00:39:58,080 --> 00:40:02,400
so all of Kairouan can make use
of it.
508
00:40:04,560 --> 00:40:06,560
Because it was built from nothing,
509
00:40:06,560 --> 00:40:10,400
Kairouan is a particularly pure
Islamic city.
510
00:40:11,680 --> 00:40:14,280
There are few cases here
511
00:40:14,280 --> 00:40:19,760
of the Romans or the Vandals
or the Byzantines.
512
00:40:19,760 --> 00:40:23,640
In Kairouan, Islam
started from scratch.
513
00:40:28,280 --> 00:40:32,000
Except here, in the courtyard of
the mosque. Look at this column.
514
00:40:32,000 --> 00:40:34,240
Look at the top.
What is that, Corinthian?
515
00:40:34,240 --> 00:40:41,200
And next to it, Venetian?
Over here, Roman, perhaps.
516
00:40:41,200 --> 00:40:45,680
Could even be Egyptian, who knows?
Of the 414 columns
517
00:40:45,680 --> 00:40:50,960
arranged around this great courtyard
of the mosque in Kairouan,
518
00:40:50,960 --> 00:40:52,560
no two are the same.
519
00:40:52,560 --> 00:40:54,280
Every column is different.
520
00:40:57,120 --> 00:40:59,400
That's because
they were all taken
521
00:40:59,400 --> 00:41:03,080
from other people's temples
and palaces and city halls.
522
00:41:04,240 --> 00:41:07,680
This entire mosque
was built from bits and pieces
523
00:41:07,680 --> 00:41:09,760
of other ancient buildings.
524
00:41:11,840 --> 00:41:12,920
In the old days,
525
00:41:12,920 --> 00:41:16,080
it was actually forbidden
to count the columns in here.
526
00:41:17,160 --> 00:41:20,200
Anyone caught doing it was blinded.
527
00:41:22,200 --> 00:41:23,360
If you look closely,
528
00:41:23,360 --> 00:41:26,800
you find some really surprising
things about this courtyard.
529
00:41:26,800 --> 00:41:30,560
For example, up here,
there's a Christian cross.
530
00:41:30,560 --> 00:41:35,120
So this column must have
come from a Byzantine church.
531
00:41:35,120 --> 00:41:39,760
But through some
miracle of architectural power,
532
00:41:39,760 --> 00:41:43,040
despite all this busy borrowing,
533
00:41:43,040 --> 00:41:48,840
the end result is an
unmistakable sense of Islamic unity.
534
00:41:48,840 --> 00:41:52,000
This space could have
come from nowhere else.
535
00:41:52,000 --> 00:41:55,840
This is unmistakably...
536
00:41:55,840 --> 00:41:58,640
an Islamic space.
537
00:42:03,480 --> 00:42:07,920
There are many remarkable
things about the Kairouan Mosque.
538
00:42:07,920 --> 00:42:10,920
But particularly remarkable,
I think,
539
00:42:10,920 --> 00:42:13,360
is the proof that is offered here
540
00:42:13,360 --> 00:42:17,840
that architecture is an art form
of spaces, not of details.
541
00:42:18,880 --> 00:42:21,640
Of courtyards, not of capitals.
542
00:42:27,240 --> 00:42:28,480
See the tower here?
543
00:42:28,480 --> 00:42:31,640
It's got these slabs of stone
at the base,
544
00:42:31,640 --> 00:42:33,920
with Latin inscriptions on them.
545
00:42:33,920 --> 00:42:37,240
See this one here, it's upside down.
546
00:42:37,240 --> 00:42:40,160
So these must have come
from a Roman building.
547
00:42:42,680 --> 00:42:45,880
This is actually the oldest
surviving Islamic minaret.
548
00:42:45,880 --> 00:42:49,360
It's got a bulky,
militaristic presence,
549
00:42:49,360 --> 00:42:53,280
rising up in these
three squat pieces.
550
00:42:53,280 --> 00:42:58,440
But like all minarets,
its original purpose is glorious,
551
00:42:58,440 --> 00:43:03,320
to spread the word,
to share the news, to shine a light.
552
00:43:07,360 --> 00:43:11,200
The minaret is one of the defining
Islamic achievements
553
00:43:11,200 --> 00:43:12,400
of the Dark Ages.
554
00:43:13,720 --> 00:43:18,920
Islam did much that was inventive
and progressive in architecture.
555
00:43:18,920 --> 00:43:22,040
But in its minarets,
it surpassed itself.
556
00:43:26,200 --> 00:43:29,480
This word "minaret"
comes from the Arabic "manarah",
557
00:43:29,480 --> 00:43:31,760
which means lighthouse.
558
00:43:31,760 --> 00:43:34,960
And that's its function,
to be a beacon of hope,
559
00:43:34,960 --> 00:43:37,760
to offer safety and protection.
560
00:43:37,760 --> 00:43:42,280
And of course, the faithful were
called to prayer from up there.
561
00:43:42,280 --> 00:43:45,080
In the very first mosque,
built by Mohammed,
562
00:43:45,080 --> 00:43:47,840
the faithful were called
from the rooftops.
563
00:43:47,840 --> 00:43:51,200
But as cities got bigger,
mosques got bigger,
564
00:43:51,200 --> 00:43:55,760
you needed somewhere higher up
from which to broadcast the faith.
565
00:43:58,760 --> 00:44:01,840
And look what inventive shapes
were found
566
00:44:01,840 --> 00:44:03,720
for this conquest of the sky.
567
00:44:05,040 --> 00:44:09,360
This is the minaret of the
Great Mosque of Samarra in Iraq.
568
00:44:09,360 --> 00:44:13,560
Its nickname, for obvious reasons,
is "the snail shell".
569
00:44:15,440 --> 00:44:18,040
No-one else in the Dark Ages
570
00:44:18,040 --> 00:44:22,240
built anything
as airily ambitious as this.
571
00:44:22,240 --> 00:44:25,720
And it wasn't just the mosques.
572
00:44:25,720 --> 00:44:30,080
This extraordinary
brick masterpiece in Iran
573
00:44:30,080 --> 00:44:35,320
is the tomb of the Ziyarid prince,
Qabus ibn Voshmgir.
574
00:44:36,400 --> 00:44:38,960
It's a thousand years old,
575
00:44:38,960 --> 00:44:42,720
but looks like something the Bauhaus
might have come up with,
576
00:44:42,720 --> 00:44:43,920
don't you think?
577
00:44:45,760 --> 00:44:50,560
Inside, Qabus had himself suspended
at his death
578
00:44:50,560 --> 00:44:53,760
in a coffin of pure rock crystal.
579
00:44:55,920 --> 00:44:59,840
What a thrilling Islamic conquest
of the heavens.
580
00:45:09,320 --> 00:45:14,680
Speaking of rock crystal, it's
a very special substance, isn't it?
581
00:45:16,400 --> 00:45:20,720
According to the Koran,
when the chosen arrive in Paradise,
582
00:45:20,720 --> 00:45:25,240
they will be given drinks of ginger,
583
00:45:25,240 --> 00:45:29,080
served in goblets of crystal.
584
00:45:33,360 --> 00:45:36,600
Crystal,
or rock crystal to be more specific,
585
00:45:36,600 --> 00:45:40,960
was a substance with which Islam
seemed to have a special affinity.
586
00:45:42,520 --> 00:45:44,800
They say it
was Ahmed ibn Tulun himself
587
00:45:44,800 --> 00:45:49,600
who introduced the art
of carving rock crystals into Egypt.
588
00:45:49,600 --> 00:45:52,760
What's certain
is that it was in Egypt
589
00:45:52,760 --> 00:45:56,640
that this difficult art
reached perfection.
590
00:45:59,520 --> 00:46:01,240
I don't know about you,
591
00:46:01,240 --> 00:46:04,760
but I can't think of many substances
in the world
592
00:46:04,760 --> 00:46:08,000
with a presence as magical
as rock crystal.
593
00:46:10,040 --> 00:46:13,920
Particularly when
it has passed through the hands
594
00:46:13,920 --> 00:46:16,400
of the master carvers of Islam.
595
00:46:16,400 --> 00:46:22,080
Only a handful of these gorgeous
Islamic ewers have survived.
596
00:46:23,200 --> 00:46:26,600
And that just makes them
feel even more precious.
597
00:46:29,120 --> 00:46:32,600
Rock crystal itself
is actually very common.
598
00:46:32,600 --> 00:46:34,720
It's just a type of quartz,
599
00:46:34,720 --> 00:46:38,960
and quartz is the most common
mineral in the Earth's crust.
600
00:46:38,960 --> 00:46:44,160
You get it everywhere. Look.
There's a stripe of it here.
601
00:46:46,920 --> 00:46:50,040
What isn't common
is pieces of quartz
602
00:46:50,040 --> 00:46:53,080
so pure and perfect and transparent
603
00:46:53,080 --> 00:46:58,760
that they satisfy the demands of
the great crystal carvers of Islam.
604
00:47:00,960 --> 00:47:05,280
No-one has ever carved rock crystal
more finely than this.
605
00:47:06,560 --> 00:47:09,960
What they'd do is find
a perfect lump of crystal
606
00:47:09,960 --> 00:47:15,400
and shape it on the outside, and
then begin hollowing out the inside.
607
00:47:15,400 --> 00:47:19,640
They'd hollow it further
and further and further,
608
00:47:19,640 --> 00:47:22,520
till in the very best Islamic art,
609
00:47:22,520 --> 00:47:28,760
the walls of the crystal were only
a couple of millimetres thick.
610
00:47:28,760 --> 00:47:31,040
Now, that was unbelievably
difficult.
611
00:47:34,920 --> 00:47:39,680
The shimmering images carved
into these gorgeous crystal ewers
612
00:47:39,680 --> 00:47:42,800
would transport the drinker
to paradise.
613
00:47:44,520 --> 00:47:49,720
Hunting scenes, flowers,
beautiful birds,
614
00:47:49,720 --> 00:47:53,760
so crystal clear
that none could resist them.
615
00:47:56,880 --> 00:47:58,800
And it wasn't just Islam
616
00:47:58,800 --> 00:48:02,720
that saw something magical
in this rock crystal.
617
00:48:02,720 --> 00:48:05,440
In Ireland,
when Ireland was still pagan,
618
00:48:05,440 --> 00:48:08,120
they used to put
pieces of rock crystal
619
00:48:08,120 --> 00:48:10,720
at the entrance
of the burial chambers.
620
00:48:12,040 --> 00:48:16,320
And in Egypt,
they carved it into perfect spheres,
621
00:48:16,320 --> 00:48:20,200
which apparently kept your hands
cool when you touched it.
622
00:48:20,200 --> 00:48:26,400
And of course, it was used for
telling the future, and it still is.
623
00:48:32,040 --> 00:48:37,360
All sorts of Dark Age societies
were fascinated by rock crystal.
624
00:48:38,640 --> 00:48:43,600
The Roman naturalist, Pliny the
Elder, believed that rock crystal
625
00:48:43,600 --> 00:48:49,400
was actually frozen water, trapped
for aeons under the glaciers.
626
00:48:51,760 --> 00:48:54,800
Even the early Christians
worshipped it.
627
00:48:54,800 --> 00:49:01,560
For them, rock crystal had a natural
relationship with divine perfection.
628
00:49:01,560 --> 00:49:04,680
So they'd put it on the outside
of their reliquaries
629
00:49:04,680 --> 00:49:07,240
and up in their golden crosses,
630
00:49:07,240 --> 00:49:13,640
where its perfect presence seemed
somehow to connect them to God.
631
00:49:16,000 --> 00:49:19,600
Christian rock crystal
has a different feel to it.
632
00:49:20,720 --> 00:49:22,160
In Christian hands,
633
00:49:22,160 --> 00:49:26,960
the light-filled paradise of Islam
seemed to fill up with shadows.
634
00:49:28,960 --> 00:49:31,000
With Christian rock crystal,
635
00:49:31,000 --> 00:49:33,760
the Dark Ages are what
you expect them to be -
636
00:49:35,160 --> 00:49:41,120
Mysterious, spooky and talismanic.
637
00:49:45,480 --> 00:49:50,920
The water engineers of Islam
perfected their hydraulic skills
638
00:49:50,920 --> 00:49:54,640
in lands
where water was precious and rare.
639
00:49:55,880 --> 00:50:00,080
So their relationship to it had
something of the dream about it.
640
00:50:01,960 --> 00:50:06,160
For Islam,
water wasn't just a necessity -
641
00:50:06,160 --> 00:50:08,640
it was an enticement, too.
642
00:50:10,120 --> 00:50:12,400
This is Cordoba in Spain.
643
00:50:12,400 --> 00:50:16,480
The Muslim armies
got here in 711 AD
644
00:50:16,480 --> 00:50:18,680
and conquered it
from the Visigoths -
645
00:50:18,680 --> 00:50:20,840
remember them from the last film?
646
00:50:20,840 --> 00:50:23,160
And when Islam arrived in Spain
647
00:50:23,160 --> 00:50:28,200
it could not believe
how fertile this new territory was,
648
00:50:28,200 --> 00:50:32,520
how full of paradisiacal waters.
649
00:50:34,120 --> 00:50:37,440
This is the Guadalquivir
in Andalusia,
650
00:50:37,440 --> 00:50:41,200
the largest navigable river
in Spain.
651
00:50:41,200 --> 00:50:43,360
The name is Islamic.
652
00:50:43,360 --> 00:50:48,320
It comes from al-wadi al-kabir,
which means "The Great Valley".
653
00:50:50,280 --> 00:50:55,400
These days the Guadalquivir River
is only navigable up to Seville,
654
00:50:55,400 --> 00:51:00,480
but in Islamic times you could sail
all the way up here to Cordoba
655
00:51:00,480 --> 00:51:02,360
and in this great city,
656
00:51:02,360 --> 00:51:06,160
Islamic water architecture
surpassed itself.
657
00:51:07,320 --> 00:51:09,520
All along the Guadalquivir,
658
00:51:09,520 --> 00:51:13,240
a cunning system of mills,
dams and water wheels
659
00:51:13,240 --> 00:51:16,320
channelled the energy
of the waters.
660
00:51:17,960 --> 00:51:22,520
The water wheels of Cordoba
lifted water from the river
661
00:51:22,520 --> 00:51:26,960
high up to the bank where
the gardeners of Islam used it
662
00:51:26,960 --> 00:51:30,160
to recreate paradise on Earth.
663
00:51:34,520 --> 00:51:37,400
This isn't actually
an Islamic garden -
664
00:51:37,400 --> 00:51:39,640
it's an Islamic-style garden
665
00:51:39,640 --> 00:51:43,120
built by the Christian kings
here in Cordoba.
666
00:51:43,120 --> 00:51:47,440
Unfortunately, the original
Islamic garden has disappeared.
667
00:51:47,440 --> 00:51:51,600
But Islam was here for 500 years
668
00:51:51,600 --> 00:51:56,560
so this style of garden-making
is ingrained in the culture.
669
00:51:56,560 --> 00:52:00,040
What you still get here
is a vivid sense
670
00:52:00,040 --> 00:52:02,920
of how the Islamic garden felt.
671
00:52:04,600 --> 00:52:09,880
Fountains, waterways, flowers -
672
00:52:09,880 --> 00:52:14,440
these are the divine atmospheres of
those magical paradisiacal mosaics
673
00:52:14,440 --> 00:52:18,720
we saw in the Great Mosque
at Damascus.
674
00:52:18,720 --> 00:52:20,960
Except this time they're real.
675
00:52:25,560 --> 00:52:30,320
To enter the mosque at Cordoba
you need to pass through
676
00:52:30,320 --> 00:52:35,040
another beautiful evocation
of the paradise ahead -
677
00:52:35,040 --> 00:52:39,120
an orange grove.
So divinely harmonious.
678
00:52:41,280 --> 00:52:44,720
This was obviously
a very desirable location.
679
00:52:45,760 --> 00:52:49,760
They say there was
a Visigoth church here originally
680
00:52:49,760 --> 00:52:54,360
and later, when the Muslims were
finally kicked out of Spain,
681
00:52:54,360 --> 00:52:59,160
a Catholic cathedral was
plonked in the middle of the mosque
682
00:52:59,160 --> 00:53:02,360
creating this ungainly hybrid.
683
00:53:03,480 --> 00:53:07,080
It was the Umayyad prince,
Abd al-Rahman I,
684
00:53:07,080 --> 00:53:10,000
who began building
the Cordoba mosque.
685
00:53:10,000 --> 00:53:13,600
He actually bought the land
from the Christians
686
00:53:13,600 --> 00:53:17,200
and in those early days
of religious tolerance,
687
00:53:17,200 --> 00:53:20,840
Muslims and Christians
shared the building.
688
00:53:23,360 --> 00:53:27,800
The Cordoba mosque
is famous for its columns.
689
00:53:27,800 --> 00:53:30,320
856 of them.
690
00:53:31,400 --> 00:53:34,960
"Like rows of palm trees
in the oasis of Syria,"
691
00:53:34,960 --> 00:53:37,120
is how someone's described them.
692
00:53:38,840 --> 00:53:41,520
Columns are very laborious to make
693
00:53:41,520 --> 00:53:46,040
and they use up a lot of precious
stone, so they're very heavy,
694
00:53:46,040 --> 00:53:49,320
and if you can avoid making them,
you will.
695
00:53:50,440 --> 00:53:52,240
For the Cordoba mosque,
696
00:53:52,240 --> 00:53:56,240
the columns came from the Visigoth
church that was there before
697
00:53:56,240 --> 00:53:59,480
and also from nearby Roman temples.
698
00:53:59,480 --> 00:54:04,360
But these reused Visigoth columns
weren't quite tall enough
699
00:54:04,360 --> 00:54:08,800
so to make the Cordoba mosque
higher and more airy
700
00:54:08,800 --> 00:54:14,040
the architects of Islam
came up with a brilliant new idea -
701
00:54:14,040 --> 00:54:16,360
the double arch.
702
00:54:18,640 --> 00:54:21,120
Two arches for the price of one.
703
00:54:22,280 --> 00:54:24,720
At the bottom, the horseshoe arch,
704
00:54:24,720 --> 00:54:29,520
borrowed, as we saw in the last
film, from the Visigoths.
705
00:54:29,520 --> 00:54:34,200
Then, on top of that, a round arch,
arch number two,
706
00:54:34,200 --> 00:54:37,960
making the mosque taller,
less solid-looking.
707
00:54:37,960 --> 00:54:41,080
More see-through.
708
00:54:41,080 --> 00:54:44,280
For the first time
in European architecture
709
00:54:44,280 --> 00:54:48,240
the aesthetics of light
were shaping a building.
710
00:55:04,520 --> 00:55:07,200
Do you know, Cordoba,
when the Muslims were here,
711
00:55:07,200 --> 00:55:09,960
had a half a million people
living in it.
712
00:55:09,960 --> 00:55:14,800
It was by far the largest and most
prosperous city in western Europe
713
00:55:14,800 --> 00:55:18,760
and all of those inhabitants
had running water.
714
00:55:18,760 --> 00:55:23,360
They had toilets that flushed,
street lamps -
715
00:55:23,360 --> 00:55:25,600
in the 10th century.
716
00:55:27,400 --> 00:55:33,680
In urban planning, architecture,
mathematics and water engineering,
717
00:55:33,680 --> 00:55:37,480
Islamic knowledge was peerless.
718
00:55:37,480 --> 00:55:44,560
And in one area it was spectacular -
astronomy, the study of the stars.
719
00:55:46,560 --> 00:55:53,840
90 percent of the 200 brightest
stars in the sky have Arabic names.
720
00:55:53,840 --> 00:55:58,560
Vega, Betelgeuse, Algol, Deneb -
721
00:55:58,560 --> 00:56:02,360
they're all creations
of the Dark Ages
722
00:56:02,360 --> 00:56:08,320
because Arabic astronomy allowed the
Dark Ages to glimpse the cosmos.
723
00:56:10,400 --> 00:56:16,320
Remember those stars painted
on to the roof at the palace
in Qusayr Amra?
724
00:56:16,320 --> 00:56:19,120
Well, that was just the beginning.
725
00:56:19,120 --> 00:56:26,400
While Christian science was
insisting on a backward, biblical
understanding of the cosmos,
726
00:56:26,400 --> 00:56:32,600
Islamic science was investigating
the heavens more adventurously.
727
00:56:36,840 --> 00:56:39,680
This little baby here,
the astrolabe,
728
00:56:39,680 --> 00:56:42,720
has been called the first computer.
729
00:56:42,720 --> 00:56:46,640
It was developed to pinpoint
the direction of Mecca.
730
00:56:46,640 --> 00:56:49,800
Muslims needed to pray
five times a day
731
00:56:49,800 --> 00:56:53,080
in a specific direction
at specific times.
732
00:56:53,080 --> 00:56:57,840
The astrolabe could work all that
out in relation to the stars
733
00:56:57,840 --> 00:57:04,040
so this was the first compass
as well, and the first clock.
734
00:57:06,040 --> 00:57:08,640
So the way it works,
the first thing you need to do
735
00:57:08,640 --> 00:57:10,960
is decide on which star
you want to focus on
736
00:57:10,960 --> 00:57:14,160
and I'm going to choose Vega.
737
00:57:14,160 --> 00:57:19,520
So I find Vega in the sky
and with these sights here
738
00:57:19,520 --> 00:57:23,800
I line it up
until I can see Vega in the middle.
739
00:57:25,120 --> 00:57:27,440
It's exactly there.
740
00:57:27,440 --> 00:57:30,560
And that gives me
a reading here in degrees,
741
00:57:30,560 --> 00:57:32,240
degrees from the horizontal.
742
00:57:32,240 --> 00:57:38,160
So I can see that Vega,
right now, is 35 degrees.
743
00:57:38,160 --> 00:57:41,560
So the next thing to do is to set
the date, measured, of course,
744
00:57:41,560 --> 00:57:45,200
in the old-fashioned way,
in phases of the zodiac.
745
00:57:45,200 --> 00:57:47,960
Right now we're in Gemini, so...
746
00:57:47,960 --> 00:57:51,960
In fact,
we're in the 15th degree of Gemini.
747
00:57:51,960 --> 00:57:55,480
About there,
otherwise known as the end of May.
748
00:57:58,120 --> 00:58:03,560
So this is basically that
in diagrammatic form
749
00:58:03,560 --> 00:58:08,000
and whatever is true on here
is also true out there.
750
00:58:08,000 --> 00:58:11,120
So I know the date,
I know where Vega is,
751
00:58:11,120 --> 00:58:16,000
so, with the help
of this handy Dark Age sat-nav
752
00:58:16,000 --> 00:58:18,760
I can finally work out where I am.
753
00:58:20,320 --> 00:58:26,200
It was Alfraganus, the multi-skilled
designer of the Nilometer in Cairo
754
00:58:26,200 --> 00:58:31,000
who undertook the first great
Islamic exploration of the stars.
755
00:58:33,040 --> 00:58:36,360
He was followed by many others.
756
00:58:36,360 --> 00:58:41,080
Without Islamic science and its
sensuous delight in the cosmos,
757
00:58:41,080 --> 00:58:45,280
perhaps this really
would have been a dark age.
758
00:58:45,280 --> 00:58:49,320
With Islamic science,
it was anything but.
759
00:58:50,400 --> 00:58:53,760
In the next film
we'll be heading north
760
00:58:53,760 --> 00:58:58,200
to celebrate those fine
craftsmen the Vikings
761
00:58:58,200 --> 00:59:04,520
and to investigate those
particularly skilled jewellers
of the Dark Ages,
762
00:59:04,520 --> 00:59:07,000
the Anglo-Saxons.
763
00:59:21,160 --> 00:59:24,200
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
66874
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.