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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:01,960 CRICKETS CHIRRUP 2 00:00:01,960 --> 00:00:04,400 OWL HOOTS 3 00:00:05,840 --> 00:00:10,720 This is a series about the Dark Ages, when civilisation was 4 00:00:10,720 --> 00:00:14,880 said to have stopped and ignorance flooded the world. 5 00:00:16,920 --> 00:00:20,400 I've been trying to convince you that it didn't happen, 6 00:00:20,400 --> 00:00:24,680 that the Dark Ages were a fine era for art. 7 00:00:24,680 --> 00:00:28,240 But in this film, I am going further. 8 00:00:29,560 --> 00:00:33,200 The art we'll be looking at in this film is some of the most 9 00:00:33,200 --> 00:00:35,040 sophisticated ever made. 10 00:00:36,200 --> 00:00:40,320 If any art challenges the myth of the Dark Ages, 11 00:00:40,320 --> 00:00:43,240 it's the art of Islam. 12 00:00:43,240 --> 00:00:46,400 EXPLOSION 13 00:00:46,400 --> 00:00:49,520 HORSE WHINNIES 14 00:01:29,520 --> 00:01:31,800 This is Cordoba in Spain. 15 00:01:31,800 --> 00:01:35,320 That's the great Mosque of Cordoba up there. 16 00:01:35,320 --> 00:01:41,440 And this handy little Dark Age gadget is an astrolabe. 17 00:01:41,440 --> 00:01:45,680 Some people call this the first computer and what this thing 18 00:01:45,680 --> 00:01:51,720 does is calculate exactly where you are, by using the stars. 19 00:01:54,160 --> 00:01:59,760 Islamic stargazers perfected the astrolabe in the Dark Ages to 20 00:01:59,760 --> 00:02:06,160 work out the direction of Mecca, so they always knew which way to pray. 21 00:02:06,160 --> 00:02:10,240 It filled their art with cosmic patterns. 22 00:02:11,760 --> 00:02:16,200 Later on, I will be showing you how to use one of these, I hope, 23 00:02:16,200 --> 00:02:20,200 but first we need to travel back in time to 24 00:02:20,200 --> 00:02:26,160 the beginnings of Islam, to the first fascinating creations 25 00:02:26,160 --> 00:02:28,560 of Islamic art and architecture. 26 00:02:28,560 --> 00:02:34,080 So right now, we're here in Cordoba, Spain. 27 00:02:34,080 --> 00:02:36,680 To go back to the beginnings of Islamic art, 28 00:02:36,680 --> 00:02:41,560 we need to go right across the Mediterranean to here. 29 00:02:43,480 --> 00:02:45,200 Jerusalem - 30 00:02:45,200 --> 00:02:49,080 the heart of the religious Dark Ages. 31 00:02:49,080 --> 00:02:52,800 What huge dramas have been enacted here. 32 00:02:52,800 --> 00:02:56,880 What important art has been created? 33 00:02:56,880 --> 00:03:00,160 Most of it's gone unfortunately, but not all of it. 34 00:03:00,160 --> 00:03:02,320 Some of it has survived, 35 00:03:02,320 --> 00:03:07,520 notably that magnificent golden dome on the horizon - 36 00:03:07,520 --> 00:03:09,280 the Dome of the Rock. 37 00:03:12,200 --> 00:03:16,040 It's one of the most significant buildings ever put up, 38 00:03:16,040 --> 00:03:19,520 a piece of architecture that changed history. 39 00:03:19,520 --> 00:03:23,920 You couldn't really ask for a more dramatic location, could you? 40 00:03:23,920 --> 00:03:28,160 If you think it looks good from up here on the Mount of Olives, 41 00:03:28,160 --> 00:03:30,360 just wait until we get closer. 42 00:03:34,280 --> 00:03:38,680 Mohammed died in 632 AD 43 00:03:38,680 --> 00:03:42,280 and for the first 50 years or so after his death, 44 00:03:42,280 --> 00:03:45,840 Islam was preoccupied with conquest. 45 00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:52,680 The speed at which the Islamic empire expanded was remarkable. 46 00:03:52,680 --> 00:03:58,240 In just a few decades, it went from nothing to gigantic. 47 00:03:58,240 --> 00:04:01,720 It was the most dramatic, most aggressive 48 00:04:01,720 --> 00:04:06,240 and fastest feat of empire building the world has seen. 49 00:04:10,520 --> 00:04:16,120 This is the Islamic empire, just 100 years after Mohammed's death. 50 00:04:16,120 --> 00:04:21,200 Up here, the whole of Spain, all of North Africa, 51 00:04:21,200 --> 00:04:26,400 the entire Middle East, as far across as the borders of India. 52 00:04:33,520 --> 00:04:37,760 But all this astonishingly successful conquest, didn't leave 53 00:04:37,760 --> 00:04:40,080 much time for art. 54 00:04:40,080 --> 00:04:44,160 Almost nothing survives from the first years of Islam. 55 00:04:44,160 --> 00:04:47,880 Clearly, art was not a priority. 56 00:04:47,880 --> 00:04:52,000 And then, out of nothing, as if by magic, 57 00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:55,880 this appears - the Dome of the Rock. 58 00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:02,920 Nothing in Islamic art prepares us for this. 59 00:05:02,920 --> 00:05:04,840 It's just suddenly there. 60 00:05:04,840 --> 00:05:11,320 A definitive Islamic creation, seemingly conjured out of thin air. 61 00:05:12,720 --> 00:05:15,200 It's like a flying saucer or something, 62 00:05:15,200 --> 00:05:19,880 that's landed out of nowhere and something you sense immediately, 63 00:05:19,880 --> 00:05:24,960 even from this distance, is the powerful geometry of it, 64 00:05:24,960 --> 00:05:29,080 that air of mathematical clarity 65 00:05:29,080 --> 00:05:32,760 and that's something that continues in Islamic architecture. 66 00:05:39,960 --> 00:05:43,720 As you can see, it's an octagon, it's got eight sides. 67 00:05:43,720 --> 00:05:49,320 Octagons have a special symbolic presence, because they combine 68 00:05:49,320 --> 00:05:53,160 the geometry of a circle with the geometry of a square. 69 00:05:54,360 --> 00:06:00,760 I'll show you. If I draw a circle here... 70 00:06:06,880 --> 00:06:12,560 And then... two intersecting squares... 71 00:06:15,440 --> 00:06:16,880 ..here... 72 00:06:20,600 --> 00:06:21,920 ..and here... 73 00:06:25,800 --> 00:06:29,440 The shape they form, the shape in the middle... 74 00:06:39,440 --> 00:06:41,400 That's the octagon. 75 00:06:45,800 --> 00:06:50,480 The octagon is a surprisingly popular Dark Age shape with 76 00:06:50,480 --> 00:06:52,960 powerful, sacred meanings. 77 00:06:52,960 --> 00:06:56,840 If the Earth is a square and heaven is a perfect circle, 78 00:06:56,840 --> 00:07:02,560 the octagon is a symbolic bridge between the two. 79 00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:07,080 All the proportions of the Dome of the Rock are meaningful. 80 00:07:07,080 --> 00:07:12,280 So these walls here... the walls of the octagon... 81 00:07:12,280 --> 00:07:17,680 each of those is about 20 metres long. 82 00:07:19,520 --> 00:07:25,040 And the Dome in the middle, the height of that's 83 00:07:25,040 --> 00:07:32,200 again about 20 metres and the diameter of it's also 20 metres. 84 00:07:32,200 --> 00:07:36,440 All these proportions have been carefully calculated, 85 00:07:36,440 --> 00:07:37,880 have a purpose. 86 00:07:39,600 --> 00:07:45,480 It's as if the entire building has been shaped by a divine mathematics. 87 00:07:47,040 --> 00:07:52,200 And those divine mathematics have given it a sacred meaning. 88 00:07:53,920 --> 00:07:59,160 This location, Temple Mount, is the holiest spot in Jerusalem. 89 00:07:59,160 --> 00:08:03,400 This is where King Solomon built the first Jewish temple, 90 00:08:03,400 --> 00:08:07,400 the one destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar and then Herod, the infamous 91 00:08:07,400 --> 00:08:10,760 King Herod, built the second temple here as well. 92 00:08:13,680 --> 00:08:18,560 Herod's temple was made entirely from white marble and was 93 00:08:18,560 --> 00:08:24,040 so huge, it covered 67 acres of the sacred location. 94 00:08:24,040 --> 00:08:27,640 So grand, so pompous 95 00:08:27,640 --> 00:08:31,800 and to my eyes, so inelegant! 96 00:08:33,400 --> 00:08:37,360 So the Dome of the Rock sits on layer upon layer 97 00:08:37,360 --> 00:08:40,040 of crucial religious history 98 00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:44,640 and when the Muslims conquered Jerusalem in 638 AD 99 00:08:44,640 --> 00:08:47,720 and claimed this site for Islam, they took possession 100 00:08:47,720 --> 00:08:53,440 of what is probably the most loaded religious spot on Earth. 101 00:08:53,440 --> 00:08:55,600 And that's just the outside! 102 00:09:00,520 --> 00:09:05,360 For me, this mysterious interior is one of the most atmospheric 103 00:09:05,360 --> 00:09:08,840 achievements of the Dark Ages. 104 00:09:08,840 --> 00:09:14,000 There's something so haunting about the way the light works in here, 105 00:09:14,000 --> 00:09:16,520 the shimmer of the mosaics, 106 00:09:16,520 --> 00:09:19,680 the whispers of the calligraphy. 107 00:09:26,680 --> 00:09:29,840 Basically, it's a circular shrine. 108 00:09:29,840 --> 00:09:31,080 It's not a mosque, 109 00:09:31,080 --> 00:09:36,680 it's a place of pilgrimage that has been built around a sacred site. 110 00:09:36,680 --> 00:09:42,880 The site it's all been built around is the site of this holy rock here. 111 00:09:44,920 --> 00:09:49,040 The Jews believe this is the rock on which Abraham prepared to 112 00:09:49,040 --> 00:09:51,640 sacrifice his son, Isaac. 113 00:09:52,920 --> 00:09:56,600 And the Ark of the Covenant is thought to lie hidden 114 00:09:56,600 --> 00:09:58,720 somewhere underneath, as well. 115 00:10:03,880 --> 00:10:06,080 SPEAKING SOFTLY: Islam has a different tradition. 116 00:10:06,080 --> 00:10:09,280 Islam believes this is the holy rock 117 00:10:09,280 --> 00:10:13,960 from which the prophet Mohammed set off on his great night journey 118 00:10:13,960 --> 00:10:15,640 to heaven. 119 00:10:15,640 --> 00:10:19,200 The angel Gabriel came to visit Mohammed at Mecca 120 00:10:19,200 --> 00:10:21,360 and brought him here to Jerusalem. 121 00:10:21,360 --> 00:10:26,480 From this rock, the prophet ascended to heaven and there, 122 00:10:26,480 --> 00:10:32,360 in paradise, he met God and God instructed him 123 00:10:32,360 --> 00:10:35,080 on the Muslim duty of prayer. 124 00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,720 So this holy rock, like the architecture around it, 125 00:10:42,720 --> 00:10:47,400 is a point of contact between man and God 126 00:10:47,400 --> 00:10:51,080 and that's the religious message of the whole building. 127 00:10:52,560 --> 00:10:55,080 If you saw the first film in this series, 128 00:10:55,080 --> 00:10:59,600 you'll recognise this shape, because we've seen it before. 129 00:10:59,600 --> 00:11:04,760 This type of encircling architecture, built over a precious 130 00:11:04,760 --> 00:11:10,280 site, something we found in the round churches at Byzantium. 131 00:11:10,280 --> 00:11:13,400 Remember, San Vitale in Ravenna 132 00:11:13,400 --> 00:11:16,480 and Santa Costanza in Rome. 133 00:11:19,840 --> 00:11:24,040 The Muslim Caliph Abd al-Malik who built the Dome of the Rock was 134 00:11:24,040 --> 00:11:28,760 deliberately taking on the architecture of the Christians. 135 00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:34,360 This round shape, the proportions, none of it was an accident. 136 00:11:37,160 --> 00:11:43,000 Abd al-Malik also added an explicit inscription, which runs all the 137 00:11:43,000 --> 00:11:49,440 way round, which gives the date on which the dome was finished - 138 00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:55,160 691 AD. It also includes a stern message to the Christians. 139 00:11:56,680 --> 00:12:02,160 "O, you people of the Book", it says, meaning the Bible. 140 00:12:02,160 --> 00:12:06,440 "Jesus is only a messenger of God. 141 00:12:06,440 --> 00:12:09,560 "God is only one God." 142 00:12:12,200 --> 00:12:17,320 It's a deliberate challenge to the Christians. Jesus is just a prophet. 143 00:12:17,320 --> 00:12:21,720 There's only one God and Gods don't have sons. 144 00:12:21,720 --> 00:12:26,480 This entire building is taking on Christianity. 145 00:12:28,600 --> 00:12:30,080 Look at that! 146 00:12:30,080 --> 00:12:35,880 Floor to ceiling is covered in the most exquisite mosaics. 147 00:12:35,880 --> 00:12:40,600 Gold and green... there's a palm tree 148 00:12:40,600 --> 00:12:43,880 and these beautiful jewelled crowns. 149 00:12:43,880 --> 00:12:49,640 And all the pieces of the mosaic are set at different angles, 150 00:12:49,640 --> 00:12:53,200 so they reflect the light differently at different times 151 00:12:53,200 --> 00:12:59,600 of day and all this, all these glorious mosaics, 152 00:12:59,600 --> 00:13:04,760 were intended to the evoke a vision of paradise. 153 00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:12,240 "When you look there in paradise", says the Koran, 154 00:13:12,240 --> 00:13:15,920 "you will see delights that cannot be imagined. 155 00:13:15,920 --> 00:13:18,720 "Fruits of every kind 156 00:13:18,720 --> 00:13:21,000 "and all that you ask for." 157 00:13:23,120 --> 00:13:27,040 At a stroke, Islam had invented for itself 158 00:13:27,040 --> 00:13:30,280 an unmistakable new architecture. 159 00:13:30,280 --> 00:13:34,640 And at the centre of this new architecture, 160 00:13:34,640 --> 00:13:36,760 was a vision of paradise. 161 00:13:44,960 --> 00:13:49,720 The Islamic paradise is a green and verdant alternative to 162 00:13:49,720 --> 00:13:54,040 the harsh desert landscape in which Islam was born. 163 00:13:54,040 --> 00:13:59,200 These are lands where water is precious and so is hope. 164 00:14:03,640 --> 00:14:07,480 Just a few years after the Dome of the Rock was finished, 165 00:14:07,480 --> 00:14:13,040 the Umayyad Caliphs in Damascus gave the world another wonderful Islamic 166 00:14:13,040 --> 00:14:16,840 structure - the Damascus Mosque. 167 00:14:16,840 --> 00:14:20,080 I think it's one of the most exciting buildings 168 00:14:20,080 --> 00:14:21,400 I've ever been in. 169 00:14:23,320 --> 00:14:25,400 And look what's on the walls. 170 00:14:26,720 --> 00:14:30,240 Inside the fabulous Damascus Mosque, 171 00:14:30,240 --> 00:14:35,760 the Umayyad Caliphs set out actually to describe paradise. 172 00:14:37,080 --> 00:14:41,240 And to surround the Islamic pilgrim with delightful 173 00:14:41,240 --> 00:14:43,880 and irresistible visions of it. 174 00:14:45,320 --> 00:14:49,840 It's one of Islam's most dramatic artistic moments. 175 00:14:49,840 --> 00:14:53,120 These are the joys that await us in heaven. 176 00:14:53,120 --> 00:14:56,960 These are the beautiful cities in which we'll live 177 00:14:56,960 --> 00:14:59,800 and this is the water, 178 00:14:59,800 --> 00:15:03,440 the cool and endless water, that we'll drink. 179 00:15:11,920 --> 00:15:15,440 Those magnificent images of paradise in the Great Mosque 180 00:15:15,440 --> 00:15:20,720 at Damascus are like images of a wonderful oasis in the desert, 181 00:15:20,720 --> 00:15:24,400 water, palm trees, flowers - 182 00:15:24,400 --> 00:15:27,440 everything that's so hard to find out here 183 00:15:27,440 --> 00:15:34,720 and the Islamic paradise promises so many pleasures in the next life 184 00:15:34,720 --> 00:15:39,160 to the true believer - all you can drink, all you can eat 185 00:15:39,160 --> 00:15:41,920 and all you can dream of. 186 00:15:49,280 --> 00:15:51,280 This is Qusayr Amra. 187 00:15:51,280 --> 00:15:55,760 It's one of the desert palaces which the Umayyad rulers of Damascus 188 00:15:55,760 --> 00:15:58,680 built out here to get away from the city - 189 00:15:58,680 --> 00:16:01,600 its heat and its pressures. 190 00:16:04,040 --> 00:16:07,920 No-one's certain which of the Umayyad princes chose this 191 00:16:07,920 --> 00:16:10,680 distant desert location. 192 00:16:10,680 --> 00:16:15,640 Was it the Caliph Al-Walid the First or Al-Walid the Second? 193 00:16:15,640 --> 00:16:20,680 What is sure is why they chose this particular spot. 194 00:16:22,040 --> 00:16:24,800 Qusayr Amra is built in a wadi - 195 00:16:24,800 --> 00:16:29,440 the Wadi Al Battum - and wadis are desert valleys that fill up 196 00:16:29,440 --> 00:16:31,280 seasonally with water. 197 00:16:31,280 --> 00:16:35,680 So when it rains in the desert, the precious water floods through 198 00:16:35,680 --> 00:16:37,920 the wadi and fertilises it. 199 00:16:41,520 --> 00:16:45,600 Round the back of the building, over here, the various 200 00:16:45,600 --> 00:16:51,480 contraptions for channelling this water through the palace, 201 00:16:51,480 --> 00:16:59,200 because, believe it or not, what you have before you here is a bathhouse! 202 00:17:02,560 --> 00:17:06,880 Qusayr Amra is a bathing establishment in the desert - 203 00:17:06,880 --> 00:17:12,680 one of the earliest surviving secular buildings of Islam. 204 00:17:17,440 --> 00:17:21,640 The reason we've driven all this way across the desert to find it is 205 00:17:21,640 --> 00:17:26,400 because this fabulous bath house in the sands has something 206 00:17:26,400 --> 00:17:32,160 remarkable inside it, something you'd never expect to find here. 207 00:17:33,760 --> 00:17:38,480 Floor to ceiling Islamic frescoes. 208 00:17:41,000 --> 00:17:45,080 A troupe of acrobats gives a busy performance 209 00:17:45,080 --> 00:17:49,280 and there's a bear strumming a lute. 210 00:17:49,280 --> 00:17:51,920 There's so much going on in here. 211 00:17:53,760 --> 00:17:57,760 And a group of statuesque female dancers, 212 00:17:57,760 --> 00:18:01,200 show off their figures and their beauty. 213 00:18:05,480 --> 00:18:08,680 The dancing girls are particularly surprising. 214 00:18:08,680 --> 00:18:12,440 We're just not used to Islamic imagery as abandoned as this, 215 00:18:12,440 --> 00:18:15,280 but it's important to remember this is just 216 00:18:15,280 --> 00:18:19,440 as old and just as traditional as everything else we've seen. 217 00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:23,160 This, too, is a precious Islamic heritage. 218 00:18:25,160 --> 00:18:30,240 A negative way to understand Qusayr Amra's remarkable frescoes 219 00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:35,120 is to see them as signs of moral relaxation. 220 00:18:35,120 --> 00:18:40,440 Away from Damascus, deep in the desert, a wayward Umayyad prince 221 00:18:40,440 --> 00:18:46,200 is indulging an appetite for wine and music and women. 222 00:18:50,480 --> 00:18:52,800 But I don't think that is what it's about. 223 00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:56,240 If we go back to the many descriptions of paradise in the 224 00:18:56,240 --> 00:19:01,920 Koran, there are constant references to the pleasures available there. 225 00:19:01,920 --> 00:19:07,280 Rivers of wine served in crystal cups, beautiful flowers, 226 00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:10,920 beautiful jewels and beautiful girls. 227 00:19:13,480 --> 00:19:17,360 "For the righteous", says the Koran, "there shall be gardens 228 00:19:17,360 --> 00:19:22,640 "and vineyards and high-bosomed virgins for companions, 229 00:19:22,640 --> 00:19:28,240 "dark eyed and bashful, as fair as corals and rubies." 230 00:19:30,280 --> 00:19:35,480 Inside here is the caldarium - the hot room. 231 00:19:35,480 --> 00:19:40,120 In here the Umayyad prince would soak himself in hot water, 232 00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:44,200 heated up by all those gubbins we saw outside and as he lay 233 00:19:44,200 --> 00:19:50,320 here in his bath, the Umayyad prince would stare up at the Dome 234 00:19:50,320 --> 00:19:54,040 where he'd see something wondrous - 235 00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:58,040 an evocation of the stars at night. 236 00:20:01,000 --> 00:20:04,720 This is the earliest known Islamic star chart, 237 00:20:04,720 --> 00:20:07,200 painted onto the dome at Qusayr Amra. 238 00:20:08,520 --> 00:20:12,160 Around the edge are the 12 signs of the Zodiac. 239 00:20:13,320 --> 00:20:14,960 And in the middle, 240 00:20:14,960 --> 00:20:19,600 frescoed representations of the constellations. 241 00:20:19,600 --> 00:20:21,760 The Great Bear, 242 00:20:21,760 --> 00:20:23,320 the Little bear. 243 00:20:24,760 --> 00:20:28,720 What a thing to find in an eighth century bathhouse, 244 00:20:28,720 --> 00:20:32,720 a fabulous image of the heavens at night above your head. 245 00:20:32,720 --> 00:20:36,640 It's as if someone has taken the roof off the dome 246 00:20:36,640 --> 00:20:40,120 and looked out into the sky at night in the desert, 247 00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:41,880 full of twinkling stars. 248 00:20:42,880 --> 00:20:44,800 What a beautiful idea. 249 00:20:55,080 --> 00:20:57,640 It takes a bit of getting to Qusayr Amra 250 00:20:57,640 --> 00:21:01,720 but I wanted to make it clear right from the start that Islamic art, 251 00:21:01,720 --> 00:21:04,480 with its beginnings in the Dark Ages, 252 00:21:04,480 --> 00:21:07,600 has this sensuous dimension to it, 253 00:21:07,600 --> 00:21:13,080 a relationship to pleasure that you just don't find in other art. 254 00:21:16,720 --> 00:21:21,160 Scattered across this great Syrian Desert are the remains 255 00:21:21,160 --> 00:21:23,520 of fantastical Umayyad palaces, 256 00:21:23,520 --> 00:21:27,400 filled once with beautiful mosaics 257 00:21:27,400 --> 00:21:30,000 and marvellous colonnades. 258 00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:35,920 What tangible sensuousness you find here in this first Islamic art. 259 00:21:42,160 --> 00:21:46,160 These eighth century desert palaces must once have been filled 260 00:21:46,160 --> 00:21:48,520 with the accoutrements of pleasure - 261 00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:52,440 vases, hangings, plates and cups, 262 00:21:52,440 --> 00:21:54,800 almost all of which have disappeared. 263 00:21:57,640 --> 00:22:00,560 But in 1986, here in Jordan, 264 00:22:00,560 --> 00:22:02,800 they dug up this. 265 00:22:02,800 --> 00:22:06,960 It's an eighth century Islamic brazier 266 00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:08,680 and it gives us a tiny hint 267 00:22:08,680 --> 00:22:12,880 of what life was like in the Qusayr Amra bathhouse. 268 00:22:15,800 --> 00:22:19,680 The brazier was used to heat up the prince's room 269 00:22:19,680 --> 00:22:22,280 and for burning incense. 270 00:22:22,280 --> 00:22:26,840 Originally there were wheels on it and it could be wheeled around 271 00:22:26,840 --> 00:22:30,520 from room to room to fill them with sweet smells. 272 00:22:31,920 --> 00:22:34,160 It's made of iron and bronze 273 00:22:34,160 --> 00:22:37,800 and at the front here, as you can see, there are these arches 274 00:22:37,800 --> 00:22:40,200 a little bit like the ones in Qusayr Amra, 275 00:22:40,200 --> 00:22:46,280 and inside the arches are scenes of lovemaking and couples canoodling, 276 00:22:46,280 --> 00:22:50,560 and it's all so atmospheric and so beautifully done. 277 00:22:50,560 --> 00:22:53,080 Look at these eagles at the bottom, 278 00:22:53,080 --> 00:22:56,440 the way they've been shaped, their wings, their feathers. 279 00:22:58,080 --> 00:23:01,880 This is metalwork of the highest quality. 280 00:23:04,120 --> 00:23:08,920 At the four corners, four cuddly nudes prepared to release 281 00:23:08,920 --> 00:23:13,760 a small bird into the incense-filled air above them. 282 00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:19,800 And there's a floaty feeling to this marvellous metalwork. 283 00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:23,560 What a beautiful thing. 284 00:23:23,560 --> 00:23:25,560 And the figurative sculptures you see here, 285 00:23:25,560 --> 00:23:28,800 the female figures are, again, very surprising 286 00:23:28,800 --> 00:23:33,080 because this is an is aspect of Islamic art that was there at the start, 287 00:23:33,080 --> 00:23:36,920 that is very traditional, but which modern Islam often forgets. 288 00:23:39,240 --> 00:23:43,760 The beautiful brazier was an object of private delectation. 289 00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:45,880 It had no religious purpose. 290 00:23:47,160 --> 00:23:51,720 But it's important to remember that sensuality played a role 291 00:23:51,720 --> 00:23:53,720 in the art of these times. 292 00:23:53,720 --> 00:23:58,000 In the beginning, this was Islamic art too, 293 00:23:58,000 --> 00:24:00,200 and this, 294 00:24:00,200 --> 00:24:02,160 and this. 295 00:24:06,560 --> 00:24:11,560 When joy was called for, Islamic art inspired great joy. 296 00:24:12,640 --> 00:24:15,880 And when sobriety was more appropriate, 297 00:24:15,880 --> 00:24:18,040 it achieved great sobriety. 298 00:24:21,200 --> 00:24:24,800 This is the finest early mosque in Cairo, 299 00:24:24,800 --> 00:24:27,240 the mosque of ibn Tulun. 300 00:24:28,520 --> 00:24:31,360 I like everything about it, 301 00:24:31,360 --> 00:24:36,120 but most of all I admire its architectural seriousness. 302 00:24:37,600 --> 00:24:40,600 The way you know, as soon as you step in here, 303 00:24:40,600 --> 00:24:46,040 that this is a space devoted to important understandings. 304 00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:54,240 Ahmed ibn Tulun who founded this mosque in 879 AD 305 00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:58,360 was the son of a Turkish slave, who became governor of Egypt. 306 00:24:58,360 --> 00:25:02,680 Originally the mosque stood at the centre of a new city 307 00:25:02,680 --> 00:25:06,640 that ibn Tulun also founded, the city of Al-Qatta'i. 308 00:25:07,800 --> 00:25:10,960 But Al-Qatta'i was destroyed in the 10th century. 309 00:25:10,960 --> 00:25:13,840 This is all that's left of it. 310 00:25:17,120 --> 00:25:19,600 They say ibn Tulun chose this site 311 00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:22,720 because this is where Noah's Ark came to rest. 312 00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:26,800 There was certainly water here, 313 00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:31,440 that domed creation in the centre is the ablutions fountain, 314 00:25:31,440 --> 00:25:35,360 where all Muslims must wash themselves before prayers. 315 00:25:36,720 --> 00:25:39,000 All mosques, not just this one, 316 00:25:39,000 --> 00:25:41,600 are based on the very first mosque 317 00:25:41,600 --> 00:25:44,880 which was the prophet's own house in Medina. 318 00:25:44,880 --> 00:25:49,000 It was a typical mud brick dwelling, with a courtyard, 319 00:25:49,000 --> 00:25:53,200 and in that courtyard the prophet's followers would gather 320 00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:54,720 to hear him speak. 321 00:25:54,720 --> 00:25:59,320 So, all these great courtyards of Islam, 322 00:25:59,320 --> 00:26:04,560 all of them, are descended directly from the prophet's own courtyard. 323 00:26:07,440 --> 00:26:11,960 Their evocative sparseness is an echo of their origins. 324 00:26:13,240 --> 00:26:17,600 Their sun-baked simplicity has been there from the start. 325 00:26:19,520 --> 00:26:21,640 The walls that encircle you here 326 00:26:21,640 --> 00:26:25,240 are like the walls of the prophet's own courtyard. 327 00:26:25,240 --> 00:26:30,160 Their task is to keep the outside world at bay, 328 00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:32,120 and here at ibn Tulun, 329 00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:38,160 there's actually two sets of walls, a kind of double glazing 330 00:26:38,160 --> 00:26:41,880 that separates you from the hustle and bustle out there. 331 00:26:44,880 --> 00:26:49,760 I like these playful crenulations arranged along the top as well. 332 00:26:51,040 --> 00:26:52,960 They look like paper cut-outs, 333 00:26:52,960 --> 00:26:55,760 something my daughter might have made. 334 00:26:58,360 --> 00:27:01,160 To protect his followers from the sun 335 00:27:01,160 --> 00:27:05,920 the prophet built a simple shelter at the end of his courtyard 336 00:27:05,920 --> 00:27:10,120 with a roof made out of palm branches and leaves. 337 00:27:10,120 --> 00:27:16,040 That simple shelter was the inspiration for these great arcades 338 00:27:16,040 --> 00:27:20,280 which still protect the prophet's followers from the sun. 339 00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:27,160 The shelters in his courtyard were also used 340 00:27:27,160 --> 00:27:30,920 as somewhere to meet and discuss community affairs. 341 00:27:34,000 --> 00:27:36,840 And that marvellous communal atmosphere 342 00:27:36,840 --> 00:27:40,840 of a space with many purposes is something else that survives 343 00:27:40,840 --> 00:27:43,760 to this day in the Islamic mosque. 344 00:27:47,880 --> 00:27:51,840 The largest covered space was the prayer hall, which 345 00:27:51,840 --> 00:27:56,440 was basically the prophet's own house at the end of the courtyard. 346 00:27:56,440 --> 00:28:03,440 Every prayer hall today is a continuation of this marvellous Islamic sense. 347 00:28:03,440 --> 00:28:07,480 Underneath all this mighty religious architecture 348 00:28:07,480 --> 00:28:10,880 you can still feel the humble presence 349 00:28:10,880 --> 00:28:13,160 of the prophet's own dwelling. 350 00:28:15,200 --> 00:28:18,800 These prayer halls are so welcoming, 351 00:28:18,800 --> 00:28:22,800 they have a sense of the living room about them. 352 00:28:22,800 --> 00:28:24,160 A home from home. 353 00:28:27,880 --> 00:28:33,000 Most mosques are square or rectangular in plan 354 00:28:33,000 --> 00:28:37,120 and that's because they're all arranged in relation 355 00:28:37,120 --> 00:28:41,240 to this wall here, which is called the Qibla wall. 356 00:28:44,720 --> 00:28:48,320 The Qibla wall indicates the direction of Mecca. 357 00:28:49,440 --> 00:28:54,200 In Arabic the word Qibla means direction. 358 00:28:54,200 --> 00:28:58,720 And in Mohammed's house a simple spear stuck in the ground 359 00:28:58,720 --> 00:29:00,920 would mark the way to pray. 360 00:29:04,560 --> 00:29:08,800 The centre of the Qibla wall is marked by the mihrab 361 00:29:08,800 --> 00:29:12,000 which is always the most ornate part of the wall. 362 00:29:12,000 --> 00:29:13,840 Usually a niche. 363 00:29:15,320 --> 00:29:19,520 These niches were probably inspired by the culminating niches 364 00:29:19,520 --> 00:29:23,600 of Byzantine churches, Christian architecture. 365 00:29:25,200 --> 00:29:30,160 To the right of the mihrab is the minbar or pulpit 366 00:29:30,160 --> 00:29:33,560 and this is based, once again, on the prophet's own house. 367 00:29:35,920 --> 00:29:39,040 They say that when Mohammed had gathered 368 00:29:39,040 --> 00:29:42,880 so many followers he could no longer be heard by everyone 369 00:29:42,880 --> 00:29:47,080 he stepped up onto some blocks of wood 370 00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:49,680 and those are the origins of the minbar. 371 00:29:53,920 --> 00:29:58,000 How fascinating that all the great mosques of Islam 372 00:29:58,000 --> 00:30:04,000 inherited their wonderful clarity, their simplicity and their 373 00:30:04,000 --> 00:30:09,680 underlying sacred geometry from the humble house of the prophet. 374 00:30:10,680 --> 00:30:14,800 Look at all that wonderful stucco work around the arches, 375 00:30:14,800 --> 00:30:17,440 all that repetition and variety, 376 00:30:17,440 --> 00:30:20,360 this is art used in a different way, 377 00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:24,600 not to illustrate something but to create a visual rhythm. 378 00:30:27,960 --> 00:30:33,080 Christian churches are full of pictures that tell you stories 379 00:30:33,080 --> 00:30:37,200 but there are no pictures in these great Islamic interiors. 380 00:30:38,200 --> 00:30:42,080 The decoration here communicates in other ways. 381 00:30:43,680 --> 00:30:46,680 There's a sense of endlessness to it. 382 00:30:46,680 --> 00:30:49,240 It develops in all directions. 383 00:30:50,600 --> 00:30:54,440 And it makes you feel part of something that's bigger than you. 384 00:30:58,160 --> 00:30:59,840 So there are no pictures. 385 00:30:59,840 --> 00:31:04,600 Instead, all the way round runs this Koranic inscription, 386 00:31:04,600 --> 00:31:06,520 carved into wood. 387 00:31:07,440 --> 00:31:10,120 You know I said this mosque was built on the site 388 00:31:10,120 --> 00:31:13,320 when Noah's Ark was said to have come to rest, 389 00:31:13,320 --> 00:31:17,360 another story they tell here is that this Koranic inscription 390 00:31:17,360 --> 00:31:21,680 is carved on the actual wood from Noah's Ark. 391 00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:26,680 At the mosque of ibn Tulun 392 00:31:26,680 --> 00:31:31,880 the Koranic inscription runs for two kilometres around the building, 393 00:31:31,880 --> 00:31:37,840 that's 1/15th of the entire Koran written up on these walls. 394 00:31:39,680 --> 00:31:44,240 This is the Word of God in its most sacred and purest form. 395 00:31:46,720 --> 00:31:49,200 The power of the word is one of the great 396 00:31:49,200 --> 00:31:53,280 creative obsessions of the Dark Ages. 397 00:31:53,280 --> 00:31:57,000 And in the Metropolitan Museum in New York, 398 00:31:57,000 --> 00:32:00,400 the most beguiling of the first Korans, 399 00:32:00,400 --> 00:32:03,120 the so-called Blue Koran, 400 00:32:03,120 --> 00:32:07,920 turns the words of God into such glorious art. 401 00:32:22,960 --> 00:32:25,560 Don't know if you remember the building of the Aswan Dam 402 00:32:25,560 --> 00:32:29,800 in the 1960s? It was rather controversial, 403 00:32:29,800 --> 00:32:32,760 the president of Egypt, President Nasser, 404 00:32:32,760 --> 00:32:36,960 joined up with the Russians to build a dam across the Nile, 405 00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:41,080 and various archaeological sites were lost forever, 406 00:32:41,080 --> 00:32:45,000 or had to be moved to new locations, stone-by-stone. 407 00:32:45,000 --> 00:32:50,120 All sorts of ecological disasters were predicted for the dam. 408 00:32:50,120 --> 00:32:52,960 Most of which haven't happened. 409 00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,000 The conquest of water 410 00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:02,760 was another of Islam's great achievements in the Dark Ages. 411 00:33:04,000 --> 00:33:09,120 In Cairo, the Nile would overflow its banks every summer 412 00:33:09,120 --> 00:33:12,360 and the agriculture of the entire Nile Delta 413 00:33:12,360 --> 00:33:15,960 depended on the success of this fertile flooding. 414 00:33:18,320 --> 00:33:21,680 Thick black silt, rich with nutrients, 415 00:33:21,680 --> 00:33:24,360 would be deposited across the flood plain, 416 00:33:24,360 --> 00:33:27,120 ensuring a splendid harvest. 417 00:33:27,120 --> 00:33:29,160 That was in the good years. 418 00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:33,040 In the bad years, the levels were either too low, 419 00:33:33,040 --> 00:33:34,920 which meant disaster, 420 00:33:34,920 --> 00:33:38,760 or too high, which also meant disaster. 421 00:33:38,760 --> 00:33:43,520 The Aswan Dam was built to control that process, 422 00:33:43,520 --> 00:33:47,200 so, you might wonder, what did they do before? 423 00:33:51,120 --> 00:33:55,680 In Islamic times they used this - the celebrated Nilometer 424 00:33:55,680 --> 00:33:58,360 of Rhoda Island on the Nile. 425 00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:02,760 Opened for business in 861 AD, 426 00:34:02,760 --> 00:34:06,880 it's one of the oldest Islamic monuments in Egypt. 427 00:34:08,160 --> 00:34:12,600 And what dramatic evidence it offers of the aquatic brilliance 428 00:34:12,600 --> 00:34:14,840 of Islam's engineers. 429 00:34:16,320 --> 00:34:21,720 What this thing does is measure the height of the Nile flood. 430 00:34:21,720 --> 00:34:23,880 It's basically a big well, 431 00:34:23,880 --> 00:34:27,480 sunk some ten metres under the level of the river. 432 00:34:27,480 --> 00:34:31,560 In the middle is an octagonal marble column, 433 00:34:31,560 --> 00:34:35,800 a kind of giant ruler which, as you can see, 434 00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:39,120 is marked off at different heights. 435 00:34:42,000 --> 00:34:46,440 The measurements are in cubits and one cubit is about half a metre, 436 00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:52,400 so around 16 cubits is the perfect flood. 437 00:34:52,400 --> 00:34:55,280 Fertile, controllable. 438 00:34:55,280 --> 00:35:01,120 Below 16 cubits there's not enough water, so famine conditions ahead, 439 00:35:01,120 --> 00:35:05,680 and higher up, once we get past 19 cubits, 440 00:35:05,680 --> 00:35:10,040 that's really bad, a catastrophic flood. 441 00:35:14,520 --> 00:35:19,360 Islamic authorities in Cairo used the great Nilometer 442 00:35:19,360 --> 00:35:22,600 to calculate their annual tax demands. 443 00:35:24,840 --> 00:35:28,160 The perfect flood meant perfect profits ahead. 444 00:35:29,760 --> 00:35:32,720 Thus, this brilliant piece of design 445 00:35:32,720 --> 00:35:37,520 was an early Islamic alternative to the pocket calculator. 446 00:35:39,760 --> 00:35:42,080 Before they'd built the Aswan Dam, 447 00:35:42,080 --> 00:35:47,760 these tunnels here led off into the Nile at three different levels. 448 00:35:47,760 --> 00:35:52,000 So if they weren't closed off now, I would be under water. 449 00:35:53,200 --> 00:35:57,920 Look at those pointed arches above the tunnels. 450 00:35:57,920 --> 00:36:01,360 That's pure Gothic, 400 years early. 451 00:36:05,560 --> 00:36:10,600 The Nilometer was designed by the famed Persian astronomer 452 00:36:10,600 --> 00:36:15,720 Abu al-Abbas Ahmad ibn Muhammad ibn Kathir al-Farghani, 453 00:36:15,720 --> 00:36:18,400 better known to us by his Latin name, Alfraganus. 454 00:36:22,360 --> 00:36:26,040 Alfraganus's most famous achievement as an astronomer 455 00:36:26,040 --> 00:36:29,080 was calculating the diameter of the Earth. 456 00:36:29,080 --> 00:36:32,080 Copernicus was said to have used his results. 457 00:36:32,080 --> 00:36:35,320 There's even a crater on the moon named after him, 458 00:36:35,320 --> 00:36:36,960 the Alfraganus Crater. 459 00:36:39,120 --> 00:36:41,960 But it isn't just science that created this, 460 00:36:41,960 --> 00:36:45,160 and it isn't just commerce either. 461 00:36:45,160 --> 00:36:46,520 All the way round, 462 00:36:46,520 --> 00:36:50,680 there are also these beautiful Koranic inscriptions, 463 00:36:50,680 --> 00:36:52,720 in a lovely Kufic script. 464 00:36:54,080 --> 00:36:57,040 "Thou seest the Earth barren and lifeless...", 465 00:36:57,040 --> 00:36:59,760 it says, at the 17 cubit mark. 466 00:37:00,840 --> 00:37:04,840 "..But when we pour rain on it, it is stirred to life". 467 00:37:08,120 --> 00:37:12,840 At the Nilometer in Cairo, science, commerce and faith 468 00:37:12,840 --> 00:37:17,040 have combined in a uniquely Islamic fashion 469 00:37:17,040 --> 00:37:20,400 to create a technological wonder. 470 00:37:20,400 --> 00:37:26,080 This entire series is about how the Dark Ages weren't dark. 471 00:37:26,080 --> 00:37:28,680 But sometimes, I should just shut up 472 00:37:28,680 --> 00:37:31,640 and let you see the proof for yourselves, 473 00:37:31,640 --> 00:37:34,280 because it couldn't be more obvious. 474 00:37:36,520 --> 00:37:38,600 CALL TO PRAYER 475 00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:46,520 This is Kairouan in Tunisia. 476 00:37:47,680 --> 00:37:50,720 Once, this was a city of enormous power, 477 00:37:50,720 --> 00:37:55,400 the most important Islamic outpost in North Africa. 478 00:37:55,400 --> 00:37:58,320 Now, it's a marvellous place to visit 479 00:37:58,320 --> 00:38:01,240 for any true student of the Dark Ages. 480 00:38:03,840 --> 00:38:07,960 Kairouan, they say, was founded by the great Arab warrior, 481 00:38:07,960 --> 00:38:12,160 Sidi Uqba ibn Nafi, who conquered these parts for Islam 482 00:38:12,160 --> 00:38:15,600 just 50 years after the death of the Prophet. 483 00:38:16,600 --> 00:38:20,240 When Sidi Uqba got here, this was all desert. 484 00:38:20,240 --> 00:38:23,600 But something made him pause and look down at his feet. 485 00:38:25,160 --> 00:38:27,320 When Sidi looked down, 486 00:38:27,320 --> 00:38:32,480 he saw a miraculous spring of fresh water bubbling up, 487 00:38:32,480 --> 00:38:34,720 and in that water, a golden cup 488 00:38:34,720 --> 00:38:39,440 which he had lost many years before at the holy spring in Mecca. 489 00:38:40,640 --> 00:38:44,160 The underground waters seemed to have carried it here. 490 00:38:44,160 --> 00:38:46,840 So it was clearly a sign. 491 00:38:46,840 --> 00:38:52,240 And on this holy spot, Sidi Uqba founded Kairouan. 492 00:38:58,080 --> 00:39:02,080 At the centre of the new city, he built a new mosque, 493 00:39:02,080 --> 00:39:04,640 the oldest such mosque in North Africa. 494 00:39:06,080 --> 00:39:09,160 From the outside, there's not much sign of it. 495 00:39:09,160 --> 00:39:13,960 Islam isn't a religion that flaunts itself in the streets. 496 00:39:13,960 --> 00:39:18,000 But when you get inside into the great courtyard 497 00:39:18,000 --> 00:39:22,480 of the Sidi Uqba Mosque, what a powerful sight awaits you. 498 00:39:26,200 --> 00:39:29,680 Another practical use for these great mosque courtyards, 499 00:39:29,680 --> 00:39:31,880 particularly here in Kairouan, where it is so dry, 500 00:39:31,880 --> 00:39:34,960 is for collecting water. 501 00:39:34,960 --> 00:39:39,080 When it rains, all the water is channelled down here to the centre. 502 00:39:40,160 --> 00:39:45,360 See these decorative openings? They actually have a practical purpose. 503 00:39:45,360 --> 00:39:47,320 When the water flows through them, 504 00:39:47,320 --> 00:39:52,560 all these arabesques filter out the impurities, the dust, the feathers. 505 00:39:52,560 --> 00:39:55,040 Then the water, pure and clean, 506 00:39:55,040 --> 00:39:58,080 is saved below in two giant cisterns, 507 00:39:58,080 --> 00:40:02,400 so all of Kairouan can make use of it. 508 00:40:04,560 --> 00:40:06,560 Because it was built from nothing, 509 00:40:06,560 --> 00:40:10,400 Kairouan is a particularly pure Islamic city. 510 00:40:11,680 --> 00:40:14,280 There are few cases here 511 00:40:14,280 --> 00:40:19,760 of the Romans or the Vandals or the Byzantines. 512 00:40:19,760 --> 00:40:23,640 In Kairouan, Islam started from scratch. 513 00:40:28,280 --> 00:40:32,000 Except here, in the courtyard of the mosque. Look at this column. 514 00:40:32,000 --> 00:40:34,240 Look at the top. What is that, Corinthian? 515 00:40:34,240 --> 00:40:41,200 And next to it, Venetian? Over here, Roman, perhaps. 516 00:40:41,200 --> 00:40:45,680 Could even be Egyptian, who knows? Of the 414 columns 517 00:40:45,680 --> 00:40:50,960 arranged around this great courtyard of the mosque in Kairouan, 518 00:40:50,960 --> 00:40:52,560 no two are the same. 519 00:40:52,560 --> 00:40:54,280 Every column is different. 520 00:40:57,120 --> 00:40:59,400 That's because they were all taken 521 00:40:59,400 --> 00:41:03,080 from other people's temples and palaces and city halls. 522 00:41:04,240 --> 00:41:07,680 This entire mosque was built from bits and pieces 523 00:41:07,680 --> 00:41:09,760 of other ancient buildings. 524 00:41:11,840 --> 00:41:12,920 In the old days, 525 00:41:12,920 --> 00:41:16,080 it was actually forbidden to count the columns in here. 526 00:41:17,160 --> 00:41:20,200 Anyone caught doing it was blinded. 527 00:41:22,200 --> 00:41:23,360 If you look closely, 528 00:41:23,360 --> 00:41:26,800 you find some really surprising things about this courtyard. 529 00:41:26,800 --> 00:41:30,560 For example, up here, there's a Christian cross. 530 00:41:30,560 --> 00:41:35,120 So this column must have come from a Byzantine church. 531 00:41:35,120 --> 00:41:39,760 But through some miracle of architectural power, 532 00:41:39,760 --> 00:41:43,040 despite all this busy borrowing, 533 00:41:43,040 --> 00:41:48,840 the end result is an unmistakable sense of Islamic unity. 534 00:41:48,840 --> 00:41:52,000 This space could have come from nowhere else. 535 00:41:52,000 --> 00:41:55,840 This is unmistakably... 536 00:41:55,840 --> 00:41:58,640 an Islamic space. 537 00:42:03,480 --> 00:42:07,920 There are many remarkable things about the Kairouan Mosque. 538 00:42:07,920 --> 00:42:10,920 But particularly remarkable, I think, 539 00:42:10,920 --> 00:42:13,360 is the proof that is offered here 540 00:42:13,360 --> 00:42:17,840 that architecture is an art form of spaces, not of details. 541 00:42:18,880 --> 00:42:21,640 Of courtyards, not of capitals. 542 00:42:27,240 --> 00:42:28,480 See the tower here? 543 00:42:28,480 --> 00:42:31,640 It's got these slabs of stone at the base, 544 00:42:31,640 --> 00:42:33,920 with Latin inscriptions on them. 545 00:42:33,920 --> 00:42:37,240 See this one here, it's upside down. 546 00:42:37,240 --> 00:42:40,160 So these must have come from a Roman building. 547 00:42:42,680 --> 00:42:45,880 This is actually the oldest surviving Islamic minaret. 548 00:42:45,880 --> 00:42:49,360 It's got a bulky, militaristic presence, 549 00:42:49,360 --> 00:42:53,280 rising up in these three squat pieces. 550 00:42:53,280 --> 00:42:58,440 But like all minarets, its original purpose is glorious, 551 00:42:58,440 --> 00:43:03,320 to spread the word, to share the news, to shine a light. 552 00:43:07,360 --> 00:43:11,200 The minaret is one of the defining Islamic achievements 553 00:43:11,200 --> 00:43:12,400 of the Dark Ages. 554 00:43:13,720 --> 00:43:18,920 Islam did much that was inventive and progressive in architecture. 555 00:43:18,920 --> 00:43:22,040 But in its minarets, it surpassed itself. 556 00:43:26,200 --> 00:43:29,480 This word "minaret" comes from the Arabic "manarah", 557 00:43:29,480 --> 00:43:31,760 which means lighthouse. 558 00:43:31,760 --> 00:43:34,960 And that's its function, to be a beacon of hope, 559 00:43:34,960 --> 00:43:37,760 to offer safety and protection. 560 00:43:37,760 --> 00:43:42,280 And of course, the faithful were called to prayer from up there. 561 00:43:42,280 --> 00:43:45,080 In the very first mosque, built by Mohammed, 562 00:43:45,080 --> 00:43:47,840 the faithful were called from the rooftops. 563 00:43:47,840 --> 00:43:51,200 But as cities got bigger, mosques got bigger, 564 00:43:51,200 --> 00:43:55,760 you needed somewhere higher up from which to broadcast the faith. 565 00:43:58,760 --> 00:44:01,840 And look what inventive shapes were found 566 00:44:01,840 --> 00:44:03,720 for this conquest of the sky. 567 00:44:05,040 --> 00:44:09,360 This is the minaret of the Great Mosque of Samarra in Iraq. 568 00:44:09,360 --> 00:44:13,560 Its nickname, for obvious reasons, is "the snail shell". 569 00:44:15,440 --> 00:44:18,040 No-one else in the Dark Ages 570 00:44:18,040 --> 00:44:22,240 built anything as airily ambitious as this. 571 00:44:22,240 --> 00:44:25,720 And it wasn't just the mosques. 572 00:44:25,720 --> 00:44:30,080 This extraordinary brick masterpiece in Iran 573 00:44:30,080 --> 00:44:35,320 is the tomb of the Ziyarid prince, Qabus ibn Voshmgir. 574 00:44:36,400 --> 00:44:38,960 It's a thousand years old, 575 00:44:38,960 --> 00:44:42,720 but looks like something the Bauhaus might have come up with, 576 00:44:42,720 --> 00:44:43,920 don't you think? 577 00:44:45,760 --> 00:44:50,560 Inside, Qabus had himself suspended at his death 578 00:44:50,560 --> 00:44:53,760 in a coffin of pure rock crystal. 579 00:44:55,920 --> 00:44:59,840 What a thrilling Islamic conquest of the heavens. 580 00:45:09,320 --> 00:45:14,680 Speaking of rock crystal, it's a very special substance, isn't it? 581 00:45:16,400 --> 00:45:20,720 According to the Koran, when the chosen arrive in Paradise, 582 00:45:20,720 --> 00:45:25,240 they will be given drinks of ginger, 583 00:45:25,240 --> 00:45:29,080 served in goblets of crystal. 584 00:45:33,360 --> 00:45:36,600 Crystal, or rock crystal to be more specific, 585 00:45:36,600 --> 00:45:40,960 was a substance with which Islam seemed to have a special affinity. 586 00:45:42,520 --> 00:45:44,800 They say it was Ahmed ibn Tulun himself 587 00:45:44,800 --> 00:45:49,600 who introduced the art of carving rock crystals into Egypt. 588 00:45:49,600 --> 00:45:52,760 What's certain is that it was in Egypt 589 00:45:52,760 --> 00:45:56,640 that this difficult art reached perfection. 590 00:45:59,520 --> 00:46:01,240 I don't know about you, 591 00:46:01,240 --> 00:46:04,760 but I can't think of many substances in the world 592 00:46:04,760 --> 00:46:08,000 with a presence as magical as rock crystal. 593 00:46:10,040 --> 00:46:13,920 Particularly when it has passed through the hands 594 00:46:13,920 --> 00:46:16,400 of the master carvers of Islam. 595 00:46:16,400 --> 00:46:22,080 Only a handful of these gorgeous Islamic ewers have survived. 596 00:46:23,200 --> 00:46:26,600 And that just makes them feel even more precious. 597 00:46:29,120 --> 00:46:32,600 Rock crystal itself is actually very common. 598 00:46:32,600 --> 00:46:34,720 It's just a type of quartz, 599 00:46:34,720 --> 00:46:38,960 and quartz is the most common mineral in the Earth's crust. 600 00:46:38,960 --> 00:46:44,160 You get it everywhere. Look. There's a stripe of it here. 601 00:46:46,920 --> 00:46:50,040 What isn't common is pieces of quartz 602 00:46:50,040 --> 00:46:53,080 so pure and perfect and transparent 603 00:46:53,080 --> 00:46:58,760 that they satisfy the demands of the great crystal carvers of Islam. 604 00:47:00,960 --> 00:47:05,280 No-one has ever carved rock crystal more finely than this. 605 00:47:06,560 --> 00:47:09,960 What they'd do is find a perfect lump of crystal 606 00:47:09,960 --> 00:47:15,400 and shape it on the outside, and then begin hollowing out the inside. 607 00:47:15,400 --> 00:47:19,640 They'd hollow it further and further and further, 608 00:47:19,640 --> 00:47:22,520 till in the very best Islamic art, 609 00:47:22,520 --> 00:47:28,760 the walls of the crystal were only a couple of millimetres thick. 610 00:47:28,760 --> 00:47:31,040 Now, that was unbelievably difficult. 611 00:47:34,920 --> 00:47:39,680 The shimmering images carved into these gorgeous crystal ewers 612 00:47:39,680 --> 00:47:42,800 would transport the drinker to paradise. 613 00:47:44,520 --> 00:47:49,720 Hunting scenes, flowers, beautiful birds, 614 00:47:49,720 --> 00:47:53,760 so crystal clear that none could resist them. 615 00:47:56,880 --> 00:47:58,800 And it wasn't just Islam 616 00:47:58,800 --> 00:48:02,720 that saw something magical in this rock crystal. 617 00:48:02,720 --> 00:48:05,440 In Ireland, when Ireland was still pagan, 618 00:48:05,440 --> 00:48:08,120 they used to put pieces of rock crystal 619 00:48:08,120 --> 00:48:10,720 at the entrance of the burial chambers. 620 00:48:12,040 --> 00:48:16,320 And in Egypt, they carved it into perfect spheres, 621 00:48:16,320 --> 00:48:20,200 which apparently kept your hands cool when you touched it. 622 00:48:20,200 --> 00:48:26,400 And of course, it was used for telling the future, and it still is. 623 00:48:32,040 --> 00:48:37,360 All sorts of Dark Age societies were fascinated by rock crystal. 624 00:48:38,640 --> 00:48:43,600 The Roman naturalist, Pliny the Elder, believed that rock crystal 625 00:48:43,600 --> 00:48:49,400 was actually frozen water, trapped for aeons under the glaciers. 626 00:48:51,760 --> 00:48:54,800 Even the early Christians worshipped it. 627 00:48:54,800 --> 00:49:01,560 For them, rock crystal had a natural relationship with divine perfection. 628 00:49:01,560 --> 00:49:04,680 So they'd put it on the outside of their reliquaries 629 00:49:04,680 --> 00:49:07,240 and up in their golden crosses, 630 00:49:07,240 --> 00:49:13,640 where its perfect presence seemed somehow to connect them to God. 631 00:49:16,000 --> 00:49:19,600 Christian rock crystal has a different feel to it. 632 00:49:20,720 --> 00:49:22,160 In Christian hands, 633 00:49:22,160 --> 00:49:26,960 the light-filled paradise of Islam seemed to fill up with shadows. 634 00:49:28,960 --> 00:49:31,000 With Christian rock crystal, 635 00:49:31,000 --> 00:49:33,760 the Dark Ages are what you expect them to be - 636 00:49:35,160 --> 00:49:41,120 Mysterious, spooky and talismanic. 637 00:49:45,480 --> 00:49:50,920 The water engineers of Islam perfected their hydraulic skills 638 00:49:50,920 --> 00:49:54,640 in lands where water was precious and rare. 639 00:49:55,880 --> 00:50:00,080 So their relationship to it had something of the dream about it. 640 00:50:01,960 --> 00:50:06,160 For Islam, water wasn't just a necessity - 641 00:50:06,160 --> 00:50:08,640 it was an enticement, too. 642 00:50:10,120 --> 00:50:12,400 This is Cordoba in Spain. 643 00:50:12,400 --> 00:50:16,480 The Muslim armies got here in 711 AD 644 00:50:16,480 --> 00:50:18,680 and conquered it from the Visigoths - 645 00:50:18,680 --> 00:50:20,840 remember them from the last film? 646 00:50:20,840 --> 00:50:23,160 And when Islam arrived in Spain 647 00:50:23,160 --> 00:50:28,200 it could not believe how fertile this new territory was, 648 00:50:28,200 --> 00:50:32,520 how full of paradisiacal waters. 649 00:50:34,120 --> 00:50:37,440 This is the Guadalquivir in Andalusia, 650 00:50:37,440 --> 00:50:41,200 the largest navigable river in Spain. 651 00:50:41,200 --> 00:50:43,360 The name is Islamic. 652 00:50:43,360 --> 00:50:48,320 It comes from al-wadi al-kabir, which means "The Great Valley". 653 00:50:50,280 --> 00:50:55,400 These days the Guadalquivir River is only navigable up to Seville, 654 00:50:55,400 --> 00:51:00,480 but in Islamic times you could sail all the way up here to Cordoba 655 00:51:00,480 --> 00:51:02,360 and in this great city, 656 00:51:02,360 --> 00:51:06,160 Islamic water architecture surpassed itself. 657 00:51:07,320 --> 00:51:09,520 All along the Guadalquivir, 658 00:51:09,520 --> 00:51:13,240 a cunning system of mills, dams and water wheels 659 00:51:13,240 --> 00:51:16,320 channelled the energy of the waters. 660 00:51:17,960 --> 00:51:22,520 The water wheels of Cordoba lifted water from the river 661 00:51:22,520 --> 00:51:26,960 high up to the bank where the gardeners of Islam used it 662 00:51:26,960 --> 00:51:30,160 to recreate paradise on Earth. 663 00:51:34,520 --> 00:51:37,400 This isn't actually an Islamic garden - 664 00:51:37,400 --> 00:51:39,640 it's an Islamic-style garden 665 00:51:39,640 --> 00:51:43,120 built by the Christian kings here in Cordoba. 666 00:51:43,120 --> 00:51:47,440 Unfortunately, the original Islamic garden has disappeared. 667 00:51:47,440 --> 00:51:51,600 But Islam was here for 500 years 668 00:51:51,600 --> 00:51:56,560 so this style of garden-making is ingrained in the culture. 669 00:51:56,560 --> 00:52:00,040 What you still get here is a vivid sense 670 00:52:00,040 --> 00:52:02,920 of how the Islamic garden felt. 671 00:52:04,600 --> 00:52:09,880 Fountains, waterways, flowers - 672 00:52:09,880 --> 00:52:14,440 these are the divine atmospheres of those magical paradisiacal mosaics 673 00:52:14,440 --> 00:52:18,720 we saw in the Great Mosque at Damascus. 674 00:52:18,720 --> 00:52:20,960 Except this time they're real. 675 00:52:25,560 --> 00:52:30,320 To enter the mosque at Cordoba you need to pass through 676 00:52:30,320 --> 00:52:35,040 another beautiful evocation of the paradise ahead - 677 00:52:35,040 --> 00:52:39,120 an orange grove. So divinely harmonious. 678 00:52:41,280 --> 00:52:44,720 This was obviously a very desirable location. 679 00:52:45,760 --> 00:52:49,760 They say there was a Visigoth church here originally 680 00:52:49,760 --> 00:52:54,360 and later, when the Muslims were finally kicked out of Spain, 681 00:52:54,360 --> 00:52:59,160 a Catholic cathedral was plonked in the middle of the mosque 682 00:52:59,160 --> 00:53:02,360 creating this ungainly hybrid. 683 00:53:03,480 --> 00:53:07,080 It was the Umayyad prince, Abd al-Rahman I, 684 00:53:07,080 --> 00:53:10,000 who began building the Cordoba mosque. 685 00:53:10,000 --> 00:53:13,600 He actually bought the land from the Christians 686 00:53:13,600 --> 00:53:17,200 and in those early days of religious tolerance, 687 00:53:17,200 --> 00:53:20,840 Muslims and Christians shared the building. 688 00:53:23,360 --> 00:53:27,800 The Cordoba mosque is famous for its columns. 689 00:53:27,800 --> 00:53:30,320 856 of them. 690 00:53:31,400 --> 00:53:34,960 "Like rows of palm trees in the oasis of Syria," 691 00:53:34,960 --> 00:53:37,120 is how someone's described them. 692 00:53:38,840 --> 00:53:41,520 Columns are very laborious to make 693 00:53:41,520 --> 00:53:46,040 and they use up a lot of precious stone, so they're very heavy, 694 00:53:46,040 --> 00:53:49,320 and if you can avoid making them, you will. 695 00:53:50,440 --> 00:53:52,240 For the Cordoba mosque, 696 00:53:52,240 --> 00:53:56,240 the columns came from the Visigoth church that was there before 697 00:53:56,240 --> 00:53:59,480 and also from nearby Roman temples. 698 00:53:59,480 --> 00:54:04,360 But these reused Visigoth columns weren't quite tall enough 699 00:54:04,360 --> 00:54:08,800 so to make the Cordoba mosque higher and more airy 700 00:54:08,800 --> 00:54:14,040 the architects of Islam came up with a brilliant new idea - 701 00:54:14,040 --> 00:54:16,360 the double arch. 702 00:54:18,640 --> 00:54:21,120 Two arches for the price of one. 703 00:54:22,280 --> 00:54:24,720 At the bottom, the horseshoe arch, 704 00:54:24,720 --> 00:54:29,520 borrowed, as we saw in the last film, from the Visigoths. 705 00:54:29,520 --> 00:54:34,200 Then, on top of that, a round arch, arch number two, 706 00:54:34,200 --> 00:54:37,960 making the mosque taller, less solid-looking. 707 00:54:37,960 --> 00:54:41,080 More see-through. 708 00:54:41,080 --> 00:54:44,280 For the first time in European architecture 709 00:54:44,280 --> 00:54:48,240 the aesthetics of light were shaping a building. 710 00:55:04,520 --> 00:55:07,200 Do you know, Cordoba, when the Muslims were here, 711 00:55:07,200 --> 00:55:09,960 had a half a million people living in it. 712 00:55:09,960 --> 00:55:14,800 It was by far the largest and most prosperous city in western Europe 713 00:55:14,800 --> 00:55:18,760 and all of those inhabitants had running water. 714 00:55:18,760 --> 00:55:23,360 They had toilets that flushed, street lamps - 715 00:55:23,360 --> 00:55:25,600 in the 10th century. 716 00:55:27,400 --> 00:55:33,680 In urban planning, architecture, mathematics and water engineering, 717 00:55:33,680 --> 00:55:37,480 Islamic knowledge was peerless. 718 00:55:37,480 --> 00:55:44,560 And in one area it was spectacular - astronomy, the study of the stars. 719 00:55:46,560 --> 00:55:53,840 90 percent of the 200 brightest stars in the sky have Arabic names. 720 00:55:53,840 --> 00:55:58,560 Vega, Betelgeuse, Algol, Deneb - 721 00:55:58,560 --> 00:56:02,360 they're all creations of the Dark Ages 722 00:56:02,360 --> 00:56:08,320 because Arabic astronomy allowed the Dark Ages to glimpse the cosmos. 723 00:56:10,400 --> 00:56:16,320 Remember those stars painted on to the roof at the palace in Qusayr Amra? 724 00:56:16,320 --> 00:56:19,120 Well, that was just the beginning. 725 00:56:19,120 --> 00:56:26,400 While Christian science was insisting on a backward, biblical understanding of the cosmos, 726 00:56:26,400 --> 00:56:32,600 Islamic science was investigating the heavens more adventurously. 727 00:56:36,840 --> 00:56:39,680 This little baby here, the astrolabe, 728 00:56:39,680 --> 00:56:42,720 has been called the first computer. 729 00:56:42,720 --> 00:56:46,640 It was developed to pinpoint the direction of Mecca. 730 00:56:46,640 --> 00:56:49,800 Muslims needed to pray five times a day 731 00:56:49,800 --> 00:56:53,080 in a specific direction at specific times. 732 00:56:53,080 --> 00:56:57,840 The astrolabe could work all that out in relation to the stars 733 00:56:57,840 --> 00:57:04,040 so this was the first compass as well, and the first clock. 734 00:57:06,040 --> 00:57:08,640 So the way it works, the first thing you need to do 735 00:57:08,640 --> 00:57:10,960 is decide on which star you want to focus on 736 00:57:10,960 --> 00:57:14,160 and I'm going to choose Vega. 737 00:57:14,160 --> 00:57:19,520 So I find Vega in the sky and with these sights here 738 00:57:19,520 --> 00:57:23,800 I line it up until I can see Vega in the middle. 739 00:57:25,120 --> 00:57:27,440 It's exactly there. 740 00:57:27,440 --> 00:57:30,560 And that gives me a reading here in degrees, 741 00:57:30,560 --> 00:57:32,240 degrees from the horizontal. 742 00:57:32,240 --> 00:57:38,160 So I can see that Vega, right now, is 35 degrees. 743 00:57:38,160 --> 00:57:41,560 So the next thing to do is to set the date, measured, of course, 744 00:57:41,560 --> 00:57:45,200 in the old-fashioned way, in phases of the zodiac. 745 00:57:45,200 --> 00:57:47,960 Right now we're in Gemini, so... 746 00:57:47,960 --> 00:57:51,960 In fact, we're in the 15th degree of Gemini. 747 00:57:51,960 --> 00:57:55,480 About there, otherwise known as the end of May. 748 00:57:58,120 --> 00:58:03,560 So this is basically that in diagrammatic form 749 00:58:03,560 --> 00:58:08,000 and whatever is true on here is also true out there. 750 00:58:08,000 --> 00:58:11,120 So I know the date, I know where Vega is, 751 00:58:11,120 --> 00:58:16,000 so, with the help of this handy Dark Age sat-nav 752 00:58:16,000 --> 00:58:18,760 I can finally work out where I am. 753 00:58:20,320 --> 00:58:26,200 It was Alfraganus, the multi-skilled designer of the Nilometer in Cairo 754 00:58:26,200 --> 00:58:31,000 who undertook the first great Islamic exploration of the stars. 755 00:58:33,040 --> 00:58:36,360 He was followed by many others. 756 00:58:36,360 --> 00:58:41,080 Without Islamic science and its sensuous delight in the cosmos, 757 00:58:41,080 --> 00:58:45,280 perhaps this really would have been a dark age. 758 00:58:45,280 --> 00:58:49,320 With Islamic science, it was anything but. 759 00:58:50,400 --> 00:58:53,760 In the next film we'll be heading north 760 00:58:53,760 --> 00:58:58,200 to celebrate those fine craftsmen the Vikings 761 00:58:58,200 --> 00:59:04,520 and to investigate those particularly skilled jewellers of the Dark Ages, 762 00:59:04,520 --> 00:59:07,000 the Anglo-Saxons. 763 00:59:21,160 --> 00:59:24,200 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 66874

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