All language subtitles for m.g.o.s05e07.1080p.hdtv.h264-cbfm_track3_[eng]

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PETER MANEAS:
In the first four series

of My Greek Odyssey,

we visited islands of the Saronic,

the Ionian, the Dodecanese,

the Western Cycladic

and the Northern Aegean.

In series five,

we're seeing the Southern

and central Cycladic,

islands you've never heard of like,
Levitha, Anafi, Donoussa,

and ones you know well
like Santorini

and the big one, Crete.

In this episode,

I'm headed to what's possibly

the most well known island
in the Mediterranean, Santorini.

It's a destination
that every visitor coming to Greece

wants to see.

And my plan is to show you

not only the cliched side
of the island,

but also the stuff
that a lot of people never explore.

It's a place of contrasts,

where the young and in love
come to bask in the beauty,

while the inquisitive holiday makers
delve into the history and culture.

Here,
there's something for everyone,

which is why
it's such a popular destination.

I've been several times
and it never ceases to amaze me.

What you're looking at

is one of the most well known
island approaches in the world.

We're steaming
straight for the magnificent

and incredibly dramatic island
of Thera,

better known as, Santorini.

It's a bucket list destination,
and rightfully so.

The strip of white-walled houses
and resorts

clinging to the cliff top
are an iconic scene.

Anyone who Googles 'Greek holiday'

will see the countless images
of this spectacular destination.

For those that know it well,

you might be thinking
the sea looks empty.

Well, we've come
during the shoulder season

outside of the chaos of high Summer

when these waters
are full of cruise ships.

When I started this journey,

it was all about seeing
and stepping foot

on every single Greek island.

And I wanted to focus
on the smaller islands

because the big ones
get a lot of tourism.

And they're probably
a little bit tight

when it comes to being there

and having a really good
relaxed time.

Santorini is one of those,

but come May and September,

I have some of my best memories
in Greece, right here.

This massive Caldera,

it's the site
of the biggest volcanic eruption

in history.

There's nothing like it
anywhere else in the world.

For me, Santorini is probably
my most romantic location

in the world.
Not just from a human perspective,

but from the geography
and the memories.

You come here,

those memories of the sunset,

the white houses,
that Cycladic architecture,

that will never ever leave you.

And being here right now,
I'm reliving them as we speak.

There's no other place on the planet

that comes anywhere close
to resembling this amazing island,

with its rows of precariously,
perched buildings

on the edge of one of nature's
most colossal aged volcanoes.

Couples from all over the world
have been coming here for decades

to celebrate their nuptials.

And it's easy to understand why,

there's a picture perfect photo

from almost any point
on the caldera.

There's some good shopping
in Santorini,

especially here in Thera.

But everybody does it at night
and it's packed.

Come here when the sun's setting
and there's nobody here.

They're all watching the sunset.

Helen's not with me at moment,

and I've only
got a couple of days here.

So, I'm gonna hit the shops

and see if I can buy something
and surprise her.

Helen and I aren't big collectors.

And we only have a few pieces
up on the walls and shelves

of our family home.

Our pride and joy are the copies
of Minoan frescoes

from Santorini's ancient city
of Akrotiri.

Yes, you heard it right, copies.

Replicas can bring just as much joy
as any original.

Sometimes,
it's not about the rarity,

but more about the story
that's behind the piece.

You know,
Helen loves this sort of stuff.

The only problem is,
when we buy something,

she likes to buy art

and things that we're gonna hang
on the wall together.

So, I can't buy her
any of this stuff,

but I'll have a look at it anyway.

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I don't know what to buy her.

Yeah.

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(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

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I've just run into a shop
that I used to come to

when I first came to Santorini

and I didn't realise
it was still open.

You're the owner?
Yeah.

I'm Elena,
I'm the owner.

Elena.
I'm Peter, Elena.

Hi.
It was your grandfather that had it.

Yeah.
And it's been here, how long?

From '50s.

From the '50s.
Until '94, '93.

Yeah.
Yeah.

And then?
And then we rent.

Yeah.
Two brothers...

Right.
..they retired.

Right.
And you've taken it back on?

Yeah.
From your grandfather, literally?

They were here 25 years.

Yeah.
And I'm back now.

Right.
The last two years.

And Elena, you still serve
the same food that you did?

Greek traditional cuisine.
Greek traditional.

What we find in the fresh market
in the morning.

Yeah.
And Greek dishes.

I can't believe it's still open.

I can't believe Elena,
the restaurant is still here.

Third generation.

Yeah. Wow, unbelievable.

Come inside.
I'm coming.

So, this is the daily stuff,

this is whatever is in the markets
in the day.

Yeah.

(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Pork, spinach, rice,
spanakorizo, moussaka.

Spanakorizo, I love.

Every day we make moussaka.
Moussaka.

You have to make moussaka every day.
Every day.

Come on.
Every day.

Octopus on the grill.

I'm hungry,
you're making me hungry now.

(LAUGHS)

Maybe we should have something
to eat now,

maybe we don't go.

You're open now, aren't you?
Yeah.

We open 12:00 until 11, 12.
It depends.

It depends.
(SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Let's go.

OK.
(SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

OK, we're ready.

(SPEAKS IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Thank you, Elena. Thank you.

Now, I couldn't wait.

And Kyriako' s already cooked for me

so if he finds out that I've eaten,

I think he'll be very upset.

But I'm at Nikolas's cafe,
tavern.

Come on, come on, look at this.

Moussaka.

Man, it hasn't changed.

It's so good.

And a bit of bread.

And I'm on a keto diet
but who cares?

Look at this stuff, man.

This is so good.

This, ah, look at that.

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Mm.

You don't know
what you're missing out on.

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It's so good.

Mm.

(SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Sorry, Kiriako.

Oh, that's good.

Oh, Moussaka.
Look at that.

Mm.

And that's traditional.

That's so good.

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Depending on how you look at it,

Santorini is shaped like a mirror

reverse of the letter 'C.'

It's in fact, half the rim

of an almost extinct volcano.

Lying in the sea

at the center of this Caldera,

is an island known as Nea Kameni,

loosely translated
as latest eruption.

The long haul up.

Joining me on the hike
and being my teacher for the day

was Evie, a local geology professor.

She's one of the few people I've met
with as much enthusiasm as me.

So, Evie,
you were born in Santorini?

Yes. I was born here.

And you decided to study geology

and volcanic stuff,

is that because of your birthplace?

I was inspired
for the volcano, you see?

Well, there you go,
there you go.

I was born
and I was looking the volcano.

Yeah.
For the whole of my life.

So, you did your degree,
you're now a professor

and you teach as well.

Yes, of course.

I have many students
and I'm teaching geology.

Wow.

There's a lot
of different coloured rocks here,

but basically, the majority of it
is black

and it's a volcanic rock, obviously.

Yeah.
All of them are volcanic rocks

and all of them are dacites.
Dacite.

Even the red is dacite?
Yes. Yes.

Different composition of metals,
nothing more,

and you cannot see pumice.

No pumice?
Pumice in Nea Kameni.

The pumice is up on the caldera?
In Santorini.

Back in Santorini.
Right, OK.

Yes. Of course.

So, this looks different
to that over there.

So, what are we standing on,

and what is over there
at the moment?

So, you are right?
Yeah.

You can see the difference.
OK.

We are standing
in a volcanic dome of 1570.

Right.
OK.

And over there,
these are volcanic rocks

of the eruption from 1925.
Right.

So, you can see the difference
due to the vegetation, OK?

Volcanic dome...
Yep.

..of 1570.
Yep.

And then volcanic eruption of 1925.

So, this was the first bit
that came up?

Exactly.
And it's only a small portion.

What?
How much of the island is that?

Approximately one/eight
of the whole surface of the island.

And then this baby came along
and spilled out.

You could see it spilling.

Yeah.
Can you see the lava flows?

Yeah.
OK.

So, both of these lava flows

are from the eruption of 1925
up to 1928.

Right.

So, you had the eruption
for three years.

Right.
OK.

But now we are studying
this volcanic dome

of 1570 up to 1573.

OK. Well, we need to get to the top
so we can see the whole caldera.

Can we go up?
Yes, of course.

Let's go.
Let's go.

This is just like
any pleasant uphill walk

with the key difference being,

that this mountain wasn't here
400 years ago.

In fact, parts of it
only came out of the sea

a century back.

So, there's not much living up here.

One thing to note
is that the lack of trees

and black rocks make it pretty hot,

so the earlier you can come,
the better.

Have you had earthquakes
that you've been here for?

We had lots of earthquakes
within the caldera in 2011, 2012.

Right.

When we believed that,
"OK, something is happening today."

Right. Is there a chance
of another explosion?

Of course.
This is a very active volcano.

But you can get a warning,
you've got enough instruments here?

Yes. Yes.

We are going to have
lots of warnings.

Lots of warnings.
So, it's safe for people to come...

It's very, very safe.
..to Santorini?

We have lots of instruments
within the volcano.

Right.
Like seismographs, GPS.

This way?
Yes, this is the way.

GPS as well?
Yes, of course.

Wow.
Of course.

Imagine living in Santorini
and seeing this smoking island,

just a stones throw away.

You'd be thinking
the next big eruption

could happen any time.

1570?

No, no, no.

This is 1925 still.
This is 1925.

No.

That was only the 1570 eruption.
OK.

Over here you can see?
1570.

The crater also.
Right.

OK? 1570.

So, here's 1925
and we will see the crater, Daphne.

Right.
OK? Let's go.

You need to understand
the Nea Kameni

is combined
by different volcanic domes.

Different volcanic islands
that have been erupting

during the time. OK.

So, there's not only one
volcanic center.

So, which years have we got.
What years have we got?

OK. We had 1570.

Yep.
1925 up to 1928.

Yeah.
OK, here Daphne.

Three years?
Yes.

Yeah.
You have 1707 up there.

And we will go to the crater
of 1866.

The major eruption of Nea Kameni.

Right.
And the biggest crater.

Right.
OK? Let's go and see that.

Normally, when you're exploring

something
on the geological timeline,

you're talking about periods
that span millions of years.

Here it's recent history.

Potentially in hundreds of years
from now,

this little island
that's still smouldering

beneath the surface,

will possibly be lush and green
with people living on it.

But then again,

maybe there will be
another eruption,

and a new crater will form.

OK.

Peter, this is the major crater.

OK. This crater,
the name is George.

George.
OK.

Due to the king of Greece.

I thought they named it
after my son.

Of course.

OK. And this came from the eruption
of 1866.

That was the biggest eruption.

The biggest eruption of the volcano?

Of the Volcano.
Right.

Yes, of course.
And it lasted for four years.

So, where are we located?

Now, we are at the center
of Nea Kameni,

but let me show you to the map, OK?
OK.

Thank you. That'd be great.
OK, so. OK.

Oh, yours is like George
from Nisyros.

This one's a beaut.
Oh, wow.

Now you may understand why Santorini
we name as Strongyli.

Right.
Strongyli means around.

Right. That's the Greek name,

'cause Santorini
is the Venetian name.

BOTH: That's Saint Irene.

It's Saint Irene, right, OK.

But for us, for the geologist.

Yep.

The name took from Strongyli,
that means around.

So, Oia?
Oia, Thirasia.

Thera.
Yes, of course.

This is the caldera of Santorini.

The most active caldera of the world

with a dimension
of almost 11km North to South.

Sorry, did you say the most active
caldera of the world?

Yes, of course.

The most active caldera
of the world.

Wow. Wow.
OK. So, the deepest part is 390.

Right.
OK?

This is Nea Kameni.

We are standing just in the middle
of Nea Kameni.

This is the eruption of 1866.

Right.
OK.

And this is the main crater here.

Now, we've got gases coming up here.
Yes.

Does that mean it's gonna erupt soon
or what? No.

No, don't worry.
It's OK.

We've got plenty of warnings.
A lot of warnings.

A lot.
So, what is this gas here?

It's a sulphur CO2.
Sulphur...

Sulphur dioxide, right.
Dioxide, yes.

You can't go and sniff that,
can you?

No, no, no, no. It is forbidden.
It'll kill you, right, OK.

It is forbidden.
Right, OK.

The temperature there
is almost 100 Celsius.

Well, you know what?

I wanna go and see the rim
of the caldera.

We've been talking about that
so much.

I wanna get a close up of the rim.

We need to go to the top.
Are you excited?

You bet ya, I'm excited.

What are you talking about,
this is awesome stuff.

OK.
Let's go.

Let's go.

For millions of years.

This entire region has been alive
with volcanic activity.

Eruption after eruption
has formed most,

if not all the islands
of the Cyclades.

It has also directly influenced
human civilisation.

There are theories
that the massive Thera eruption

of 3,600 years ago,

may have directly led to the demise
of the Minoans.

That same event
and the resulting damage it caused

via ash fall and tsunamis

is suggested to have inspired

the legend of the lost city
of Atlantis.

Later, I'll show you the exact place

that they think Plato
may have drawn his inspiration from.

So, yeah, these are equipment.
So, don't touch them, OK?

They are very, very sensitive.

OK?
So, that's the monitoring equipment.

Of course.
Right, OK.

I told you, you are safe here.
Right, OK.

You're safe.

Alright.

Yeah. Don't touch them.

So, if I push this,
they'll evacuate the island.

No, no, no, no, no.
Don't do that.

OK. Righto.
OK.

You need to be extra careful.
Right. No worries.

Let's go to the top.
OK.

It's a quick boat trip
across from the main island.

So, many tourists visit daily.

An added attraction
is that you can follow the hike up

with a soothing soak
in the heated mineral rich waters.

It's an extra reward for the effort
of the long walk.

Mind you, hot water on a hot day,
probably isn't that refreshing.

See.

Wow, you can see everything
from here.

Yes.
You can see everything from here.

Amazing view. Look.

Look, (SPEAKS GREEK).
Look.

So, what is that down there,

what is that rock formation
down there?

OK. So, this is Palea Kameni.

Right.
These are the oldest rocks.

This is Palea Kameni,
this is Nea Kameni, OK.

Here you are at the top
and you are within the caldera

and you can see the round shape...

Right.
..of the caldera. OK?

So, you are the master
of the universe.

Wow.
This is an active volcano, OK?

You love what you do, don't you?
Of course.

Hey, you're my second volcanologist.

I love the volcanologist,
I love them all.

They're fantastic.

They're the most exciting people.

Thank you so much. Give me a hug.

I need a hug. I need a hug.

That's a Kyriako hug, hey?
That was awesome.

I love this trip.

It's fantastic. Look at it.

Look at it. It's just so majestic.

This is essentially
where life begins.

What's a barren, hot, exposed,
rocky formation

in the middle of the sea,

eventually cools
and attracts bird life.

From there, seeds are dropped

and other organic matter
washes ashore.

Eventually,
the ground becomes fertile enough

for those seeds to germinate,

and the once inhospitable landmass
becomes a living, breathing island.

It's amazing
to walk on the foundations of life.

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The caldera arises 350 meters

to the villages here in Santorini.

And there are a number of villages
and a number of ways to get up.

One is through Ammoudiou,
driving up.

Another way is from the new port
driving up.

But to get to these beautiful
white villages,

those picturesque ones you see,

you can only get up by donkey,

walk up these windy stairs.

And there's a few people down there
going up now.

Or with the cable car,

and I think that's probably
the best way.

I'm gonna go
and check out the donkeys now,

and I might get on.

I've been on them before,
but when you get on, you lose...

I'm gonna lose all my hair here

and I don't wanna lose
any of that hair, so...

..I'll think about it.
I'll think about it.

The producer behind the camera
right now wants me to do it,

but I'm thinking twice.

Anyway, it's a beautiful view.
Check it out.

It's worth coming down.

Let alone going up, check it out.

Someone's always got a bigger boat
than you have.

Look at these guys walking up.

Took his shirt off. Good day.

How are you, mate?
You're crazy.

Yeah, you're nuts, I know.

Funny thing is,
I actually walked up this morning

as my exercise from Oia.

I thought I'd run up.
I ran up about 10% of the way.

I used to be able to run up
all the way when I was a young man.

The construction of the cable car

was funded
by local shipping magnate,

Evangelos Nomikos.

It was built at the beginning
of the 1980s,

and in the years since
has taken millions of people

from sea level,

all the way up to the top
of the 220m high walls

of the caldera.

It made the island
far more accessible

for the masses of tourists
that started pouring into Santorini

from the late 1970s.

I suffer from claustrophobia,

so I'm glad to get out.

Up until a few decades ago.

The old harbour of Thera

was Santorini's
main commercial port.

It's now used primarily

to support the hundreds of thousands
of tourists who arrive by sea.

At the height of the season,

the waters around it
are packed with cruise ships

and the place is abuzz

with the ferrying of people
back and forth.

The seasonal cruise ship economy,

supports many islands
tourism operators,

because believe it or not,
for half of the year,

Santorini is actually really quiet.

And for me, the shoulder season
is the best time to visit,

because you get to appreciate
the beauty of the place

with few people blocking the views.

(DONKEY BRAYING)

I'm 35 years,

25 years I work here.

Yeah.
Alright, OK.

And did your father
do this as well?

Yeah.
Grandfather and father, and me now.

Wow. So long.

How many mules are there
doing this job?

300, one day.
In one day.

And how many mules are there
on the island, all up?

Four or 5,000.

Oh, so you turn them around.
They're not...

Of course.
..the mules don't do it every time?

Of course. One day, is come
I'm seven donkey here.

Yep.
A mule.

And the other day,
another seven.

Right.

'Cause they look like
they're in good condition.

Of course.
This is the livelihood...

..your livelihood, isn't it?
My mule, my daughter.

Yeah.
All the family.

They're part of the
family, aren't they?

Of course.
I see the closeness

that you people have
with your mules.

I think it's a wonderful thing.

And how clean you keep them
and how well nourished they are.

They're well fed.
You feed them well and it's clean.

It's a wonderful thing.

A few of the other mule drivers
watched on while we were filming.

We actually asked them
for an interview,

but they were reluctant
to talk to us.

The reason being, they get a bad rap
for animal cruelty

from various media
and even tourists.

What we have to understand
is that this is their livelihood

and it's a practise
steeped in history.

Spend some time with them,

and you'll realise

that these animals
are loved by their owners

and treated like family.

How long does it take
to take the mule to the top?

Ten, much 15 minutes.

Ten, 15 minutes.
And it's a good ride,

you see a lot when you go up,
don't you?

Yes, of course.

How many stairs are there
all the way upstairs?

600.

600 stairs.

What's her name?
Arapina.

I don't think Arapina
could take my weight.

Can Arapina take my weight?

Yeah, you think so?
Yeah.

You sure?
Sure.

Nah. Arapina, I'm not gonna do it
to you, darling.

Why would I do that
to this poor thing, you know?

Beautiful.

I love the sound
and she's well dressed.

I love all this.

Beautiful, isn't it?
Of course.

Yes.

I need the exercise, I'm walking up.

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He gave me a head start.

I think he's gonna pass me

and we haven't even gone a third
of the way up.

(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

(BELL JINGLING)

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

I'm not gonna win, man.
There's no chance.

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In the modern era,
these beasts of burden

are still used as labour,

in the mountain villages

and narrow streets
of hillside towns.

As much as we all
would like to assume

that people can just move on

and find machines
to carry the tourists,

building materials
and other supplies

up and down the slopes.

The reality isn't so simple.

I know there will be viewers
out there

that will complain

about us showing these animals
on TV.

We experienced similar
when filming in Hydra.

But hopefully, you can look

beyond the initial
knee jerk reaction

of assuming the mules
are being treated poorly

and see that they're actually
in incredible health

and given the best of care.

I think I'll use the cable car.

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(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

Greece is a treasure trove
of history

and there are three
distinct periods.

Each period has its pinnacle place
in my opinion.

Of course, there's the Acropolis
and that is ancient Greece.

There's Mount Athos
and that is the Byzantine era.

And for me, there is prehistory
and that is here at Akrotiri.

And when we talk about prehistory,
people think prehistoric.

They think Cro-Magnon man
and ape man.

But it's more than that.

It means before the written word.

Before written history.

And here, there's more than
just Cro-Magnon man,

this is a whole community.

Buildings that have survived.

It's a great place.
I've been here three times.

I love it!
I'm jumping out of my skin.

(AMBIENT MUSIC)

This bronze age settlement

is suggested
to have been the inspiration

for Plato's story of Atlantis.

It's the city that disappeared
from the face of the earth...

..until now.

Wow!

I'm still blown away by coming here.

Lefteris, it's awesome.

Welcome to the archaeological site
of Akrotiri.

One of the most important
archaeological sites

in the Mediterranean.

A unique harbour at its time,

that was destroyed at its peak
3,600 years ago.

The preservation is incredible
of this harbour town

that was at the center
of the South Aegean.

What makes it unique
is both the location,

but also the preservation

of these three
or four story high buildings

that are actually preserved today
due to the cataclysmic eruption

that covered the entire island
in volcanic ash.

And then preserved it

for the excavation to take place
by the archaeologist,

and this is preserved until today.

So, you have three
or four story high buildings

with frescos inside them.

Wow.
Three and four stories high.

Oh, can we go
and have a look at those buildings?

Absolutely.
Let's go.

Let's go.

Three and four stories,
I can't get over that.

There's nothing like that
anywhere else in the Aegean.

Exactly, exactly.

Such was the volume of ash

and the speed
at which it fell from the sky

that the entire settlement
was buried

with many everyday items
left in place.

The people had fled,

heading to other islands for safety
and to establish new lives.

What remained was enveloped
by the pyroclastic cloud

and all the matter
it carried with it.

It created a time capsule,

preserving the buildings
and everything inside them

for thousands of years.

This ancient history
is a side of Santorini

that adds so much more depth
to a holiday here.

It's an island with way more to it
than just shopping and sunsets.

Wow, we're seeing
some real depth here, aren't we?

What are we looking at?
This is the facade, right?

Exactly. So, we have the first
and second phase of the eruption

that has literally
covered the facade,

but also the entire building
before it was excavated.

And then what's incredible,

is that the facade goes all the way
down to the street level.

Wow.

So, we have over maybe 8m
of a building,

an actual public building.
So, it goes from there to there.

That's four stories.
But even higher also,

'cause we're missing
the upper floor, remember.

And that's all pyroclastic product
that's embedded in there?

It's actually pumice
and volcanic ash

that has trapped everything
and preserved it in place.

So, if we cut that away
and take that out,

you'll see that facade
going all the way down to there?

Exactly.
That's street level?

Exactly.
That's street level right there.

That's so impressive, mate.

I just can't get over it.
Four story buildings. Wow.

I wanna keep going

'cause we don't have
a lot of time, mate.

We haven't got all day.

Absolutely.
But I'm loving this.

I could do it all day.
Absolutely.

This building over here.
It's impressive.

I mean, it's just so big.
How many buildings are here?

About 36 have been discovered
like around the site,

but only like one or two
have actually been fully excavated

so it's quite incredible.
Wow.

This was an actual stream

and this is where actually

the modern stream
was passing through here.

Right.
And went through

and then on this side

is where you actually had the street
with the sewer system below it.

Right.

So, this is one
of the few open areas

that we have an actual square.

Now, very famously known
as the Triangle Square.

And what's in front of it

is actually a really well known
ship owner's house.

Known as the West House.

Where you have
the architecturally characteristic.

You have the doorway, the window
and then, soon as you go inside,

you have a stairway
that actually is preserved today.

And then to the left,

you would have storage rooms
and kitchens,

and then the upper floor
would be the living quarters

where you had living areas

and adorned
by these incredible frescos

that are still preserved.
Wow.

So, this is the house
with the toilet in it?

Exactly.
We've got to go and do that.

Let's go and see it.

And you can see the big window here,
how grand, elaborate it is.

Yeah. Amazing.

I've spent over 40 years
in and around building sites

and I still find it fascinating

to see the techniques
used in construction

so many centuries ago.

Many of the basic principles
employed here

are still in use today.

What's most impressive though,
is the second floor toilet

piped to an intricate sewer network.

These people
were well ahead of their time.

I don't get it,
the toilet is on the top floor.

It's difficult to comprehend now,
I mean, the way it seems now,

but you have to imagine
there was a small room right there

that's enclosed.

And at the higher level,
there was a toilet

with an intricate piping system

connected
to an actual central network

going outside of the building.

So, that's one
of the incredible things

about the West House.

Along
with all the architectural features,

as well as the important frescos
that were found here.

So, Lefteris, big windows,

biggest house, toilets, frescos.

This captain was wealthy,

this all goes to prove

that this town
was all about trading,

is that right?
Absolutely. Absolutely.

We can see this
as a characteristic example

of a wealthy ship merchant
that wants to show

that he has
the elaborate large windows,

the fresco.

So ,this is part of the society

and the wealth can be seen
at this building for sure.

Wow.

A town that would've taken
many years to build

was buried in a matter of days.

A once bustling settlement,
wiped from existence.

It's a testament
to the power of mother nature.

Lefteris,
this looks like a big complex,

what are we looking at here?

Well,
this is particularly interesting

on several levels.

This was one of the first areas
excavated in 1967.

So, this is a very large
storage room.

What's incredible about it

is that every single jar,
every single pithos that you can see

is actually in the place, in situ
exactly where it was found.

The ones on our left
have never been moved

and everything else
has been taken to the laboratories

and actually preserved
and put back into one piece

and then placed exactly
where it was found.

I love Akrotiri

because we're talking
3,600 years ago

and they talk about that eruption

as if the eruption
destroyed the Minoans.

That's not the case is it?

It's not the case.

I mean, rom what we're seeing
from the evidence

it's actually happened later on.
Yep.

So, it's chronologically later,

but it was certainly
an important event

that affected the entire Aegean.

And not only just the Aegean,
but also the Eastern Mediterranean.

Yeah.
Because it was so devastating.

This is, we're frozen in time.

Exactly. Exactly.
This is a moment captured in time

with very, very important evidence
kind of preserved in place.

I've got to tell you Lefteris,

those creative juices
that you've got going in me

at the moment.

I've got these hunger pains, mate.

And I wanna go to the museum

and see all those beautiful frescos
that have come out of here,

especially the fishermen
out of that West House.

But I'm gonna go
and have something to eat

and I know there's a great Tavern
around here.

Is it the Nikolas Cave?
Exactly, yeah.

I'm going, I've got to go now.

Enjoy.
(SPEAKS IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Let's go, mate.

The people of Akrotiri

were clearly an advanced
and cultured community.

It was a thriving civilisation
that embraced art

and other indulgences,

with clear signs
of their prosperity.

From stunning frescos
and elaborately decorated pottery,

to statues and stone carvings.

The museum has a vast collection
of materials

that puts a tangible human element
to the ruins.

It makes you wonder
what became of the people

who once lived
in this affluent town.

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

Not far from the buried town
is Akrotiri Beach.

Along its rocky shore
is a small cliff face,

dotted with restaurants
built into the caves.

These were once basic shelters
used by fishermen.

However,
when the nearby excavation started,

one entrepreneurial local
saw an opportunity.

The workmen needed to be fed,

and one of the fisherman's wives,
Aunt Efstathia as she was known,

was quite the highly regarded cook.

So, the humble cave
that her fisherman husband,

Uncle Nikolas had built,
was turned into a restaurant.

It's now an iconic part
of Santorini.

Running the cave
of Nikola's restaurant today

is Efstathia's grandson, Minas.

He's known for his moussaka,

and he uses white aubergines,

which actually
originated from Santorini.

Here he is, here he is, here he is.

Minas, how are you?

Fine. You?
(SPEAKS IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Tell me about it...

..tell me about...

..this is a family business,
isn't it?

Yeah, it's a...
How many generations?

..54 years old.

I am the third generation.

My grandfather
start this beautiful restaurant.

Yeah.
And I keep.

And all the tomatoes
are your tomatoes, aren't they?

Yeah.
Everything is from my farm.

The aubergines are your aubergines?

The meat is your meat?
Is that right?

Yeah.
It's fantastic.

And you do a special Moussaka,

it's not
like anybody else's moussaka.

You put some cheese on there.
Yeah.

To be honest with you,
I don't wanna talk to anymore,

I want to eat it, you know?
OK.

I love it so much.

I send some moussaka,
I make one vegetarian moussaka.

You do?
Yeah.

Well, I'm not a vegetarian.

Maybe Helen is, but not me.

The plan for this plate
before many, many years,

in Santorini it's not possible
to keep in the fridge, the meat,

all that.

So, my grandmother
is cook just vegetables.

Oh, right.
And I make different styling.

Yeah?
With our cheese, the tomato,

peppers, zucchini,
the white eggplant.

Because it's amazing
with the white eggplant.

Oh.

This is the first time someone else
has talked more than me

'cause I love the food so much.

I love the bread,
I love the local breads.

It's yellow.
That's it.

It's the best, mate.

You're the best, buddy.

Thank you very much.
Thank you so much.

Enjoy your meal.
I will, mate.

Thank you.
Thank you, buddy.

Oh, man.
It's just so good.

Oh.

Oh.

This is too good.

If it's not number one,

Santorini is most definitely
in the top two or three

most popular destinations in Greece.

And you'd think
that it would be difficult

to enjoy an authentic,
traditional experience.

But Minas' sumptuous paddock
to plate taverna

is diametrically opposed
to what you normally experience

in such a tourist mecca.

There's no forced cliches
or gimmicks

to appease holiday makers.

This is the real deal.

And if you're lucky,

Minas might even pull out
the bouzouki and play a tune or two.

(SINGING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

The humble origins of the cave
of Nicholas restaurant

are still at the core
of what you experience today.

It remains a community spirited
establishment

run by a loving family
that appreciates its customers

and aspires to provide them

with the sort of hospitality
you normally only come across

in the small villages,
away from the tourist hoards.

The food is impeccable
and the backdrop stunning.

And on this occasion,

we had the sounds
of traditional music

floating through the air,

alongside the amazing aromas
emanating from the kitchen

and the fresh sea breeze.

(SINGING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)

Akrotiri beach isn't the only place
where caves were used as dwellings.

All along the cliffs of Santorini,

they constructed homes,
churches,

and other buildings in the hollows

that were carved by the wind
and rain.

It was where the poor fishermen
and crews would reside

while the wealthier merchants
and ship owners

lived on the flatter terrain
at the top.

Today, they've been transformed
into luxurious hotels and resorts,

which are a complete contrast
to their modest beginnings.

Over the years,
I've stayed in quite a few of them

and really enjoy the experience.

You know, walking down these stairs
brings back a lot of memories.

Not just of the exercise,
but getting lost.

'Cause there's stairs
all over Thera and Oia.

This is what it's about,
getting to the hotel rooms.

I was on my way to meet Sandrine,

a third generation owner
of this beautiful hotel.

Her mother is German
and her father Greek.

And she grew up in Germany,

but like a lot of people,
fell in love with Santorini

and now calls it home.

If your office has views like these,

then it's understandable
why you'd never leave.

The hard part would be getting
any actual work done.

Santorini, especially Oia and Thera

are very unique
in the way the housing style,

into the cliff.

I mean, tell us a little bit
about that, you know,

and how it evolved?

Well, it all started,

they wanted to build the houses
very on the top of the cliff,

because back then
there were the pirates in the sea.

So, they wanted to be protected.

Most of the houses
were houses of fishermen

and some they used
for their own houses,

the proper living.

Others, they had their donkeys,
so they used them as stables,

or as wineries
where they produced wine actually

and stored their wines.
Yeah.

And they kept everything round,
shaded, to collect water.

Right.

It was the only way
for them to collect water.

'Cause there's no water, is there?
Exactly. The rain is very...

So, that explains the curved roofs,
right?

The Kamara.
..yeah. Yeah.

Everything into water tanks.

And they're like in caves.

They're cave dwellings literally,
aren't they?

Exactly. It was the only way
they could build back then.

It was the cheapest,

the easiest way
for them moving forward.

So, it sounds like
there's a fourth generation

coming as well.
Yes.

Yeah?
Yeah.

And you're gonna run a hotel,

starting a family,
new business, literally for you.

Yeah.

It's a lot to look forward to,
isn't it?

Yeah.
But it's fun. It's fun.

Hey, it's fantastic,
I mean, you look so relaxed.

Yeah.

How couldn't you look relaxed
in Santorini.

Hey?
With this view.

With this view, it's fantastic,
isn't it?

Yeah.

I think I might go
for a dip in the pool.

Yeah. You should.

I'm gonna go
for a dip in the pool

and bring back some memories.
Yeah.

Life's full of challenges
and experiences

that create the ups and downs
of your journey.

This is one of those high points.

I can honestly tell you that for me,

it doesn't get
much better than this.

The only thing missing
from this scene

that would make it even more perfect
is my wife, Helen.

But now I have an excuse
to come back,

so I can share this with her.

(UPBEAT MUSIC)

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

The clifftop villages are Thera,
Firostefani and Oia

are all wonderful for a morning
or late afternoon walk.

That's the time of day
when it's not too hot

and the light's magic.

It's the fitting end
to a day spent basking in the sun

at one of the beaches.

Just make sure
you pack some sunglasses

because all those white walls
are murder for the eyes.

One of the local celebrities
you might come across on your walk

is Soutiri.

Oh, look at that, look at that.

He does re-enactments
of the Greek revolution

complete with all the costuming
and theatre of a passionate actor.

If you find your way here,

one thing you'll notice

is that the tourists
who visit Santorini

are typically
the better dressed types.

For some reason,
you'll feel compelled

to embrace the glamour of the place
and have a bit more style

than you would
on one of the sleepy islands.

I think everyone
that visits Santorini

operates on the same schedule.

You spend the morning
having a leisurely stroll,

followed by an even more casual
breakfast.

Next, there's another slow walk
to look at a couple of shops.

From there, it's off to the beach

where the hours
are spent on a deck chair

or wading in the water.

The only time
the sand isn't beneath you

is when you visit a seaside taverna
for lunch.

Late in the day,
it's back to the hotel

to freshen up,

before heading out
for yet another saunter

to find a place

to either have a few drinks
prior to dinner,

or take in
one of the most famous sunsets

in the world.

While the locals and their mules
get some rest in the shade,

tourists are headed down
to the Oia Port,

it's where you'll find a strip

with some of the best
seafood restaurants on the island.

In the Summer months,
this place is buzzing all day

and getting one of the good tables
can be tough.

The dining is really only part
of the attraction.

It's the waterside location
that you come here for.

The views are on par
with the best in the Aegean

however, if you're a fan
of fresh seafood,

then you'll be in heaven.

There's all sorts of tasty stuff
on the menu,

from shellfish
and tiny little white bait

to monsters of the deep,
like this thing.

(BACKGROUND MUSIC)

Back up top
and as the sun starts setting,

the activity on the streets
only increases.

Now's the time

people start heading
for the best spots

to take in the last
of the day's sunshine.

The light softens

and the harsh white walls

start to take on
a slightly orange hue.

It's a moody
and very pretty time of day.

A calmness takes over the town

as people become mesmerised
by the distant orange ball,

gradually making its way
to the horizon.

It brings out the romantic
in even the toughest of people.

There's no better place to be
in Santorini when the sun's setting,

than here in Thera,

on a balcony, having a coffee,
a water,

or something to eat for that matter.

Before you know it,
these balconies will be full.

Mm.

The romance of Santorini

is one of the main reasons
it's such a popular destination.

As much as the island
is a place for lovers,

of history and culture,

it's also a place
for the starry eyed.

Young or old,
there's an intoxicating aura

that rises as the sun sets.

Every vantage point
with a view of the sea

is occupied by couples,

be it a balcony, walkway,
or restaurant table.

If they're not adoring the vista,

they're looking longingly
at each other.

Each afternoon,
just before the sun sets,

everybody on the island
migrates to this part of Santorini.

Either Oia,
or over behind us at Thera.

And the cameras come out

and they'll just take a photo
of the sun as it's coming down.

A lot of selfies happening here
right now.

And you'll see people
gathering over there right now.

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC)

(INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC CONTINUES)

I thought I was gonna get in there,
but that's OK.

No, you're no, no.
You take your shots.

You take it.
No, please. You take your shots.

MAN: Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah.

No, I'll take your shots
of both of you.

Let me take the shots
of both of you. Come on.

Give her a kiss mate, mate
give her a kiss.

That's it.
Oh, awesome.

What a perfect way to end the day.

This is the iconic view

that has captured the hearts
and minds of people for centuries.

Next episode,

I'm finishing up my time
in Santorini

with a cruise
around the coastal cliffs,

as well as a visit
to an ancient settlement

that was colonised by Dorians
from Sparta.

I'll also be taking a trip
to a unique winery,

making a delicious local drop.

From there,

I'm heading across
to the tiny island of Therasia.

Captioned by Ai-Media
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