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[magnificent music]
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-[Charlize in English] Nice to meet you!
-[Francis] Me too. I'm very honored.
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Yes!
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-Thank you for your time.
-Thank you.
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It's so nice to finally meet you.
I always just hear about you.
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Now, I have a face.
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Now, we have a face. And now, I feel...
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I'm getting younger because
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the first time I saw you in the Dior...
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in the famous Dior
apartment advertising.
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I think it was very audacious.
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Yeah.
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It was unique.
I still have it in my mind.
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Oh, that's really nice.
Thank you so much.
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-I brought a few things from Paris.
-Amazing.
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-Of course, what I've just created.
-Wow.
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-First...
-[Charlize] I haven't smelled it.
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-I know. And I have a question.
-Yes?
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Do you have a feeling of what
this new fragrance could smell like?
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I would say something
very clean and simple.
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So, this is the one you may know.
This is the eau de parfum.
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It smells like home. I know this one.
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[laughter]
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So now, this is the... drum roll...
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Wait, so this is it? I'm so excited.
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So this is it!
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Yay! This is so special
that I get to smell this with you.
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Merci beaucoup. Thank you.
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It's very special to me as well
as you can imagine.
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[intense music]
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-Oh, my gosh. It's so...
-[music fades]
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[upbeat music]
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PARIS, FRANCE
1 YEAR EARLIER
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[Francis in French] I like mornings.
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It is my moment where I feel fresh,
my mind is clear.
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Everything flows.
There is no traffic in Paris.
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It's peaceful.
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Even at the office, there are no meetings.
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I could work from home,
but I like going to the office.
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[music continues]
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I am Francis Kurkdjian, perfumer
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and Perfume Creation Director
at Parfums Christian Dior.
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I grew up in Seine-Saint-Denis,
outside of Paris.
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I discovered the perfumer
profession aged 14.
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The job of a perfumer is
to combine ingredients,
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side by side, in an aesthetic balance
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that corresponds
to the idea in your mind.
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[music fades]
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[sighs] I am working on a fragrance
that is coming out in September and...
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I changed tack along the way.
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A new idea came to light
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and I have to make some progress.
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[reflective music]
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Since arriving at the House of Dior,
my first major challenge
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is to reinvent J'adore.
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It does make my head spin.
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It is Dior's iconic fragrance,
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a composition that is...
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unsurpassed to date.
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Am I able to do better? I don't know.
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I have 30 years of experience.
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My career started
straight out of school, in 1995,
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with the creation of Le Mâle
by Jean-Paul Gaultier.
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I was only 25.
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It catapulted me
straight into the big league.
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Throughout my career,
I have worked for several brands,
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Burberry, Saint Laurent,
Guerlain, Armani, Dior,
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and even founded my own label.
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In 2021, I was contacted
about being part of the House of Dior.
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From that moment on,
the idea of joining Dior never left me.
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It was something very profound
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and almost essential to my life.
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I didn't want to be at Dior.
I desired it. That is different.
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[radio host] From the Eiffel Tower
to the Champs-Elysées,
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Avenue Montaigne is lined
with cars from all around,
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bringing elegance from around the world
to its leafy shade.
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They come to entrust
the art of styling
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to the man who has become
their most precious ally.
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For these women, his name
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embodies all the prestige
of French haute couture,
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Christian Dior.
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In the spring of 1947, when Christian Dior
launched his Corolle collection,
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christened "New Look" by America,
there was talk of revolution.
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Women were rediscovering
truly feminine forms.
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[Frédéric] From the moment,
the House of Dior was created in 1947,
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Dior swept everyone aside.
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FIRST CHRISTIAN DIOR FASHION SHOW
1947
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[intense upbeat music]
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We can consider February 12, 1947,
the first Christian Dior fashion show,
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as a key date in fashion history.
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Nothing would ever be the same.
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[silence]
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[Frédéric] The years of war
and depression were left behind.
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Christian Dior said to women,
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"Put yourself in the spotlight.
Be fabulous. Be feminine."
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You can really see the New Look figure,
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the Corolle line.
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Glamor, style,
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elegance, sophistication.
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His dream was to dress women
from head to toe.
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He also said that perfume
was the final touch to an outfit,
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the finishing touch.
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He did not wait
for Dior's reputation to take root
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after three, five, ten years,
as is often the case.
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From the very first year,
he wanted to create a fragrance.
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So, in our innermost, darkest depths,
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I would suggest
looking at some fairly old articles,
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from the 1947 to 1950 period.
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[Francis] What's this? It's Diorama.
That's Roudnitska as well.
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[both] It's from 1949.
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[Francis] Wait for it. Drum roll...
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-Suspense. Thank you.
-It smells like Aunt Françoise.
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In my family environment,
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there is a special person
whom I call Aunt Françoise,
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who is a close friend of my mother
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and worked for Christian Dior
from 1955 to 1959.
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She was a pattern maker
in the pattern workshop,
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00:07:05,040 --> 00:07:07,280
and so, from a young age, I grew up
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around Françoise's stories
about Monsieur Dior.
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Like a children's book.
Mr. Dior drives a car,
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Mr. Dior takes the elevator,
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Mr. Dior perfumes the floors
of Avenue Montaigne with Diorissimo.
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And almost 30 or even 40 years later,
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when the chance
to work at Dior presented itself,
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the first person I called, since my mother
has passed away, was Françoise.
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Beautiful. There's a harmony
with Diorella later on.
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It is kind of the pinnacle
of femininity in the 1940s,
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and today, when you smell
these kinds of notes,
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it could actually
be completely genderless.
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It could almost be masculine.
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I had an idea of what Dior was like,
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but from the inside,
it is completely different.
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Since coming here,
I have immersed myself in this house,
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its founder,
what he said, what he wrote...
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This is a letter.
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[Frédéric]
It refers to a perfume, which I believe
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has nothing to do with Diorissimo.
Maybe it was never made.
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Is this the only letter we have?
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I am trying to get inside his mind.
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1947 to 1957.
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He died aged 52,
and everything he had built,
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he did it in ten years.
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It's impressive. It's immense.
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It is a very special journey,
very special indeed.
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But Diorama is magnificent.
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My role as creation director is to try
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to bring this past back to life
without being old-fashioned.
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From 1947, from 1950,
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Christian Dior chose
the amphora as the shape.
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Indeed, it is similar
to the New Look style.
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With J'adore, maybe the amphora
is flipped to become a droplet.
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Today, when you look
at the stylistic elements of J'adore,
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you realize that it is close
to Christian Dior's original message.
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A message of enthusiasm, optimism,
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and a departure from the 1990 era,
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which was quite cold,
somber and minimalist.
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This offers something quite extravagant.
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-[Frédéric] We have this too.
-What is it?
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[Frédéric] It is the storyboard
by Jean-Baptiste Mondino and his team.
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The golden pool.
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We're in a kind of sacred temple.
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And a divine being walks out
of the golden pool.
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I think that will surprise people.
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[Francis] Yes, with the foot like that...
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[magnificent music]
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[Mondino] No hair, no makeup,
no stylist, little lighting.
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I put others in the spotlight.
I don't want to be center stage.
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I prefer the shadows.
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Everything is iconic with J'adore.
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In 1999, I was presented
with this golden bottle.
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The necklace is like a Maasai necklace.
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There was gold everywhere you looked.
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It was so removed
from the norm at that time.
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I thought about the liquid, the gold...
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How about a pool of gold?
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I didn't think it would work at all.
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But it turns out that it did.
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The rocket had been launched.
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[Charlize in English] One of the first
campaigns I did with Mondino was
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kind of an elimination of gold
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and saying that let's not celebrate gold
in this way where it's a god.
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It's just gold. It's just metal.
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There is gold in all of us,
meaning we're all special.
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[Mondino in French]
Her presence, her blondness,
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her power, that Amazonian quality,
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the idea that she comes home
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and abuses this luxury,
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the necklace, the clothes, the shoes,
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to finally feel good.
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She is a woman of action
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who is starting to make demands,
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who doesn't need a man,
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who doesn't need a car,
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and who is not playing a character.
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She is becoming a guide.
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[in English]
The J'adore woman is always in movement.
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She's always moving
and kind of has this feeling of,
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like, moving forward.
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I think deep down inside,
people relate to the authenticity.
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And I think that's why J'adore
has been so successful.
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[in French] With the bottle, Charlize,
the name, the fragrance and the adverts,
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all the iconic ingredients are there.
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And there you have it.
After 20 years, it is enshrined forever.
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J'adore will outlast us.
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Don't worry. You may all die,
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but J’adore will always be there.
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[laughs] Don't put that in!
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[music stopped, city sounds]
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[Francis] Retouching such an icon is
a huge responsibility.
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I clearly have
an obligation to achieve results.
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The first thing I want to
and, in fact, must do
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00:11:42,040 --> 00:11:44,520
is to visit Calice Becker and talk to her.
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00:11:44,680 --> 00:11:50,200
She composed J'adore in 1999.
We've known each other for 20 years.
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We worked together,
side by side, in New York,
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00:11:52,840 --> 00:11:55,680
when she was working
on this project for J'adore.
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It was a competition open
to the greatest perfumers of the time.
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This is everything
that I didn't throw away.
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I don't have all the drafts.
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Amaranth wood, Damascus plum.
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I remember.
We had discussed it in New York.
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[Francis]
Calice Becker achieved the unthinkable.
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MASTER PERFUMER
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This is the complete formula,
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fully annotated
with all the qualities you can...
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I clearly remember the commotion
it caused at the factory.
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The formula had to be repatriated...
It fits on three pages.
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As I was creating J'adore,
when I started combining the flowers,
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essentially white flowers,
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it came to me like an apparition,
and it was jasmine sambac,
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as with the lily of the valley
and the honeysuckle,
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I had all the notes
that fitted with the jasmine.
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It became obvious.
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So, I pushed the jasmine sambac
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to create this floral diffusion
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00:12:51,040 --> 00:12:53,280
that can be savored
from a great distance.
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[Calice] Look at what I found.
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Is it...?
240
00:12:59,080 --> 00:13:00,840
I don't know if they...
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00:13:01,000 --> 00:13:03,760
And look at what is written.
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This is "the complete concentrate,
finished using materials from Dior."
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-You recognize it.
-Look.
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00:13:10,040 --> 00:13:12,280
-That's crazy.
-J'adore focuses...
245
00:13:12,440 --> 00:13:14,720
-You recognize it.
-Absolutely.
246
00:13:15,760 --> 00:13:17,440
[emotional music]
247
00:13:17,680 --> 00:13:20,680
It is interesting
to delve into the archives...
248
00:13:21,360 --> 00:13:23,000
Your archives, not Dior's,
249
00:13:23,160 --> 00:13:25,080
but it is Dior's history, in a way.
250
00:13:25,840 --> 00:13:31,040
I think it was important
because I feel obliged to do it well.
251
00:13:32,920 --> 00:13:36,000
I can't wait to see what you come up with
252
00:13:36,160 --> 00:13:39,480
and what you will do
with the story of J'adore.
253
00:13:42,240 --> 00:13:44,240
Above all, I remember that in 1999,
254
00:13:44,400 --> 00:13:48,520
jasmine sambac was the making
of J'adore and vice versa.
255
00:13:48,680 --> 00:13:53,880
MADURAI, INDIA
256
00:13:54,040 --> 00:13:56,880
[indian music]
257
00:13:57,040 --> 00:14:00,120
[honking]
258
00:14:00,960 --> 00:14:03,520
I've been looking forward
to this trip because India
259
00:14:03,680 --> 00:14:05,680
is a perfumery hub
in terms of raw materials.
260
00:14:06,960 --> 00:14:11,640
It is a palette of natural products
that are very important to perfumery.
261
00:14:11,800 --> 00:14:13,000
[hubbub]
262
00:14:18,760 --> 00:14:21,080
[hubbub]
263
00:14:21,320 --> 00:14:25,600
-[in English] 90% of sambac goes there.
-In the hair.
264
00:14:27,000 --> 00:14:29,040
[Raja]
It's used in temples and stuff like that.
265
00:14:29,200 --> 00:14:34,000
Between 3% and 5% is what is used
in the fragrance industry.
266
00:14:34,840 --> 00:14:38,680
So, most of the usage
of the flowers is domestic.
267
00:14:40,280 --> 00:14:45,160
When Dior launched J'adore,
sambac became very popular.
268
00:14:45,320 --> 00:14:46,400
And since then,
269
00:14:46,560 --> 00:14:50,960
sambac's outlook as an ingredient
270
00:14:51,120 --> 00:14:53,160
in the fragrance industry
has completely changed.
271
00:14:53,320 --> 00:14:55,240
Sambac is the new hero.
272
00:14:55,400 --> 00:14:58,280
[crowd chatting]
273
00:15:02,760 --> 00:15:06,760
Madurai is probably a synonym to sambac.
274
00:15:06,920 --> 00:15:08,360
The quality of the flowers
275
00:15:08,520 --> 00:15:12,160
that come from this city, Madurai,
and its surroundings
276
00:15:12,320 --> 00:15:15,720
is so special because of its soil
277
00:15:15,880 --> 00:15:17,360
and the climatic conditions
278
00:15:17,520 --> 00:15:20,320
that no other sambac
that is grown anywhere else
279
00:15:20,480 --> 00:15:22,480
can be claimed as Madurai Malli.
280
00:15:22,640 --> 00:15:25,160
[engine roar]
281
00:15:25,400 --> 00:15:27,480
[indian music]
282
00:15:27,720 --> 00:15:29,920
[birds twittering]
283
00:15:36,360 --> 00:15:39,400
[Raja] We are about 40 kilometers
south of Madurai,
284
00:15:39,560 --> 00:15:42,200
closer to the city called Dindigul,
285
00:15:42,360 --> 00:15:46,120
where this is the main sambac growing bed.
286
00:15:48,560 --> 00:15:51,200
The picking is done as buds,
287
00:15:51,360 --> 00:15:53,680
and it starts
at six o'clock in the morning
288
00:15:53,840 --> 00:15:56,240
and goes on till 11 or 12
in the afternoon.
289
00:16:05,200 --> 00:16:08,520
[engine roar]
290
00:16:12,560 --> 00:16:13,960
[music stops]
291
00:16:14,200 --> 00:16:16,480
[birds twittering]
292
00:16:16,720 --> 00:16:19,080
[Francis in French]
Have you ever smelled a banana flower?
293
00:16:19,240 --> 00:16:20,440
It smells really good.
294
00:16:20,600 --> 00:16:22,240
[in English] Hello. Good morning.
295
00:16:22,920 --> 00:16:24,280
Oh, cutie!
296
00:16:26,400 --> 00:16:29,320
I’m not cute when I wake up,
but you are cute.
297
00:16:30,800 --> 00:16:32,840
Hi. Her name is Ria.
298
00:16:33,960 --> 00:16:35,160
-Ria.
-[Francis] Ria?
299
00:16:36,480 --> 00:16:38,280
Oh, too many people today.
300
00:16:38,440 --> 00:16:39,600
Oh, dear!
301
00:16:41,320 --> 00:16:43,120
[in French] So, this is sambac.
302
00:16:51,040 --> 00:16:53,040
[rooster crows]
303
00:16:58,320 --> 00:17:00,120
Very stiff and green.
304
00:17:03,000 --> 00:17:04,680
You know, it's a bit...
305
00:17:05,359 --> 00:17:06,359
Frédérique.
306
00:17:06,520 --> 00:17:08,839
It smells a bit like methyl benzoate.
307
00:17:09,000 --> 00:17:10,720
[indistinct chatting]
308
00:17:10,880 --> 00:17:13,200
It is my first trip
with Frédérique Lecoeur,
309
00:17:13,359 --> 00:17:14,359
a trained perfumer.
310
00:17:14,520 --> 00:17:16,760
We met 25 years ago.
311
00:17:19,200 --> 00:17:22,319
Her main role is to ensure
that the formulae are followed
312
00:17:22,480 --> 00:17:24,800
and to help me search the world and find
313
00:17:24,960 --> 00:17:27,440
the finest raw materials
for our fragrances.
314
00:17:27,839 --> 00:17:31,680
It goes with the ethereal
bouquet of J'adore.
315
00:17:32,840 --> 00:17:35,400
[Francis] We have Jasminum grandiflorum
and Jasminum sambac.
316
00:17:35,560 --> 00:17:38,080
Sambac doesn't grow in Grasse.
It is from India.
317
00:17:38,240 --> 00:17:42,040
To get the chance
to have them both together
318
00:17:42,200 --> 00:17:44,400
is a real joy.
319
00:17:47,800 --> 00:17:50,480
In some contexts, I'll like the sambac.
320
00:17:50,640 --> 00:17:53,040
In others, it's the grandiflorum.
321
00:17:53,200 --> 00:17:55,880
There are two or three
essential fruity facets
322
00:17:56,040 --> 00:17:57,760
that do not exist in other flowers.
323
00:17:57,920 --> 00:18:00,280
My idea for L'Or de J'adore is...
324
00:18:02,280 --> 00:18:04,440
to look for...
325
00:18:06,640 --> 00:18:08,840
To look for something
not found in J'adore,
326
00:18:09,000 --> 00:18:10,160
the...
327
00:18:11,080 --> 00:18:13,520
This skin, this flesh, this...
328
00:18:14,080 --> 00:18:15,880
fullness.
329
00:18:16,760 --> 00:18:19,040
It's silky and buttery.
330
00:18:19,800 --> 00:18:23,200
When Charlize says
that in the end, there is no gold,
331
00:18:23,360 --> 00:18:26,520
in that iconic advert
where she throws off her clothes,
332
00:18:26,680 --> 00:18:28,720
and what remains is J'adore, the skin.
333
00:18:28,880 --> 00:18:31,720
That is what remains. Skin and perfume.
334
00:18:31,880 --> 00:18:33,960
What else do you need in life?
335
00:18:36,040 --> 00:18:38,240
Do you get the mango?
336
00:18:38,680 --> 00:18:42,640
Mango? I was thinking
of a simple strawberry.
337
00:18:42,800 --> 00:18:44,840
Dried mango or candied.
338
00:18:45,000 --> 00:18:47,080
Candied, yes, candied fruit.
339
00:18:48,200 --> 00:18:49,640
It makes me want to eat it.
340
00:18:49,800 --> 00:18:51,680
It is almost physical.
341
00:18:52,240 --> 00:18:54,440
You know the scent,
but forget the material.
342
00:18:54,600 --> 00:18:58,520
You forget where it comes from,
how it is grown and by whom.
343
00:18:59,200 --> 00:19:02,800
Sometimes, these little reminders
can be just the thing
344
00:19:03,520 --> 00:19:05,480
to retrace their origins.
345
00:19:07,240 --> 00:19:09,640
[birds twittering]
346
00:19:09,880 --> 00:19:12,320
[indian music]
347
00:19:26,920 --> 00:19:29,760
[Francis] My visits to markets
or through the streets,
348
00:19:29,920 --> 00:19:33,040
for me, always conjure up a memory
I had as a young man
349
00:19:33,200 --> 00:19:35,160
who wanted to become a perfumer.
350
00:19:35,320 --> 00:19:38,800
You take two steps and you get spices.
351
00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:40,760
Turn your head and you get flowers.
352
00:19:41,000 --> 00:19:43,360
[hubbub]
353
00:19:43,520 --> 00:19:46,000
You turn left
and get the scent of curry and cumin.
354
00:19:47,720 --> 00:19:51,200
The abundance of it is so exciting.
355
00:20:03,760 --> 00:20:07,000
In India, all your senses are intensified.
356
00:20:09,240 --> 00:20:12,240
[indian music]
357
00:20:20,120 --> 00:20:22,880
[intense music]
358
00:20:31,400 --> 00:20:34,520
[Francis] Here's the rose...
which is in the wrong place.
359
00:20:35,760 --> 00:20:37,120
-Should I?
-[Francis] Go ahead.
360
00:20:37,280 --> 00:20:38,240
CREATION ASSISTANT
361
00:20:38,400 --> 00:20:39,400
Let's smell it.
362
00:20:48,520 --> 00:20:51,000
I develop the first formula
and set out ideas.
363
00:20:51,160 --> 00:20:53,720
Then, with Maïa,
it's like a game of table tennis.
364
00:20:57,560 --> 00:20:58,800
So, from memory,
365
00:20:58,960 --> 00:21:02,480
there must be something
that is slightly floral.
366
00:21:02,640 --> 00:21:05,600
-Mahonial. We'll do it in the next blend.
-Yes, but...
367
00:21:05,760 --> 00:21:06,800
Something that...
368
00:21:07,960 --> 00:21:12,640
[indistinct whispering]
369
00:21:12,880 --> 00:21:15,440
"The rose should be
dosed differently. It feels old."
370
00:21:19,440 --> 00:21:23,480
[Francis] It is extremely precise work.
It comes down to a thousandth of a gram.
371
00:21:24,080 --> 00:21:25,880
You need dozens of trials
372
00:21:26,040 --> 00:21:29,080
before finding the perfect proportions.
373
00:21:29,520 --> 00:21:32,920
[peaceful music]
374
00:21:33,160 --> 00:21:34,600
Today, I'm a bit stressed.
375
00:21:34,760 --> 00:21:38,720
I'm presenting my first Dior creation
to Véronique, Sana and Kevin.
376
00:21:39,080 --> 00:21:42,360
No, I know why. Wait, 0.6...
377
00:21:43,040 --> 00:21:45,120
So, it's... It's tense.
378
00:21:46,720 --> 00:21:50,880
It is Francis' first time
working on a Dior fragrance.
379
00:21:51,040 --> 00:21:52,840
It is a monumental fragrance
380
00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:58,360
that rocked the perfume world in the 2000s
and made its mark on the century.
381
00:22:02,760 --> 00:22:05,600
It is a moment of extreme vulnerability.
382
00:22:06,040 --> 00:22:08,520
I had very little time
to finalize this version.
383
00:22:08,720 --> 00:22:10,520
Of course it puts pressure on me.
384
00:22:11,760 --> 00:22:14,560
I have worn J'adore since it was launched.
385
00:22:14,720 --> 00:22:18,520
And I'm here with this wild hope
386
00:22:18,680 --> 00:22:24,040
of falling in love all over again
with my new version of J'adore.
387
00:22:24,200 --> 00:22:26,000
[intense music]
388
00:22:26,760 --> 00:22:28,840
And now, J'adore!
389
00:22:29,000 --> 00:22:30,680
And now, J'adore.
390
00:22:31,280 --> 00:22:33,240
Did the brief inspire you?
391
00:22:33,440 --> 00:22:35,240
The brief? I loved it.
392
00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:36,240
[laughter]
393
00:22:36,480 --> 00:22:39,840
I always say it,
and I'll say it again, but it is true.
394
00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:42,760
The most beautiful, simple stories
have the most impact.
395
00:22:42,920 --> 00:22:44,600
That's what makes great perfume.
396
00:22:44,760 --> 00:22:47,120
The idea of liquid gold,
397
00:22:47,280 --> 00:22:49,600
the essence of gold, heating gold
398
00:22:49,760 --> 00:22:52,920
in a formula where L'Or de J'adore
has the flowers of J'adore...
399
00:22:53,080 --> 00:22:55,520
It is all easy to explain.
400
00:22:55,680 --> 00:22:59,760
When it is easy to explain,
it is easy to translate.
401
00:22:59,920 --> 00:23:03,400
The aim is to restore a floral shape
402
00:23:03,560 --> 00:23:06,960
that is slightly more pronounced.
403
00:23:13,680 --> 00:23:16,240
I used the original curve.
404
00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:18,360
My vision for this fragrance is...
405
00:23:18,520 --> 00:23:20,360
If I had to heat the formula,
406
00:23:20,520 --> 00:23:23,240
what would be the ingredients
that aren't needed
407
00:23:23,400 --> 00:23:26,080
to tell the story of J'adore
in a more condensed way?
408
00:23:26,240 --> 00:23:30,200
[Véronique] I can tell that you have
steered away from certain ingredients.
409
00:23:30,360 --> 00:23:33,640
You know? There is less
of a vanilla base than before.
410
00:23:33,800 --> 00:23:37,160
I find the top notes quite delicious.
411
00:23:37,640 --> 00:23:39,880
Today, are you...?
412
00:23:40,800 --> 00:23:43,200
In the body,
is it possible that we're getting
413
00:23:43,360 --> 00:23:45,080
a bit too much eau de parfum?
414
00:23:45,240 --> 00:23:46,920
What do you think, Kevin?
415
00:23:47,080 --> 00:23:49,040
It is very true to the eau de parfum.
416
00:23:49,200 --> 00:23:52,280
I think it is almost
the quintessential eau de parfum.
417
00:23:52,440 --> 00:23:54,680
[Sana] It's almost the purified version.
418
00:23:55,240 --> 00:23:58,760
It has a very syrupy aspect,
a floral syrup.
419
00:23:58,920 --> 00:24:01,560
It fits perfectly
in the world of J'adore.
420
00:24:01,720 --> 00:24:03,720
It is like you said, Kevin.
421
00:24:03,880 --> 00:24:06,000
For me, it is quintessential. It has a...
422
00:24:06,160 --> 00:24:08,120
a purist take on the eau de parfum.
423
00:24:08,280 --> 00:24:11,320
Perhaps it is lacking a certain something
424
00:24:11,480 --> 00:24:13,440
that could go even further than that,
425
00:24:14,440 --> 00:24:18,560
probably something
in the initial notes, you know?
426
00:24:19,080 --> 00:24:23,800
Maybe a gold that is
more powerful, more intense.
427
00:24:24,520 --> 00:24:27,360
-Dazzling.
-Dazzling with a step to the side.
428
00:24:27,520 --> 00:24:30,000
Something more ostentatious
than the eau de parfum.
429
00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:32,560
-Okay.
-Okay?
430
00:24:32,720 --> 00:24:35,440
The idea is that J'adore
431
00:24:35,600 --> 00:24:39,480
heats up on the skin.
Maybe it could be related to that.
432
00:24:40,200 --> 00:24:43,440
Go on! Let go! Push harder, right?
433
00:24:44,240 --> 00:24:47,960
-[Francis] In any case, you'll wear them.
-We'll wear them and let you know.
434
00:24:48,120 --> 00:24:52,560
I am really happy with this first step
because you could have been way off.
435
00:24:52,720 --> 00:24:54,240
[Sana] This meets the brief.
436
00:24:54,400 --> 00:24:57,520
I know you hate it
when we're all happy, but...
437
00:24:57,680 --> 00:24:59,240
[Francis] I find it suspicious.
438
00:24:59,400 --> 00:25:00,760
[laughter]
439
00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,480
[Véronique] We have a perfect score,
so I am thrilled
440
00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:07,320
because it's the right direction.
I want him to go even further.
441
00:25:07,480 --> 00:25:08,920
J'adore is daring to let go.
442
00:25:10,840 --> 00:25:12,200
Although it went well,
443
00:25:13,400 --> 00:25:15,040
I am not happy.
444
00:25:15,800 --> 00:25:18,920
I know that they like it, but deep down,
445
00:25:19,080 --> 00:25:21,200
I feel like I'm not on the right track.
446
00:25:21,360 --> 00:25:23,160
Something isn't right.
447
00:25:24,600 --> 00:25:28,520
[reflective music]
448
00:25:28,920 --> 00:25:32,440
The idea presented to me at the start
was the quest of pure gold.
449
00:25:32,600 --> 00:25:35,600
Molten gold, so the impurities evaporate.
450
00:25:35,760 --> 00:25:38,840
I think I have to push
that idea even further.
451
00:25:39,000 --> 00:25:41,560
I need to tweak the formula
452
00:25:41,720 --> 00:25:43,320
and be a bit more daring.
453
00:25:45,320 --> 00:25:47,200
When I am doubting myself,
454
00:25:47,360 --> 00:25:49,960
generally speaking,
I leave it for a few days.
455
00:25:51,080 --> 00:25:52,880
I try to empty my mind.
456
00:25:54,640 --> 00:25:59,080
MONTAUROUX, GRASSE REGION, FRANCE
CHÂTEAU DE LA COLLE NOIRE
457
00:25:59,240 --> 00:26:01,400
[pastoral music]
458
00:26:04,880 --> 00:26:07,040
To compose a fragrance, I need silence.
459
00:26:08,600 --> 00:26:10,600
I need peace and tranquility.
460
00:26:18,360 --> 00:26:20,880
These are the gardens of La Colle Noire,
461
00:26:21,040 --> 00:26:23,160
Christian Dior's second home.
462
00:26:26,280 --> 00:26:28,280
This is where he came to unwind.
463
00:26:28,960 --> 00:26:30,720
[birds twittering]
464
00:26:40,480 --> 00:26:43,720
It's like being behind the scenes
of Avenue Montaigne.
465
00:26:44,640 --> 00:26:48,600
He was a man who loved nature.
He is viewed as a Parisian,
466
00:26:48,760 --> 00:26:52,040
he was Paris and fashion,
but he was deeply attached to nature,
467
00:26:52,200 --> 00:26:54,080
to flowers, to plants.
468
00:26:55,000 --> 00:26:58,040
There were actual plantations
of jasmine and roses.
469
00:26:58,600 --> 00:27:00,280
There were hectares of them,
470
00:27:00,440 --> 00:27:03,200
not just a few beds.
471
00:27:17,280 --> 00:27:20,000
For me, he was Dior in Paris
472
00:27:20,160 --> 00:27:22,040
and Christian at La Colle Noire.
473
00:27:22,720 --> 00:27:24,400
Monsieur's guest book.
474
00:27:24,560 --> 00:27:29,040
August 8, 1956,
with signatures from the likes of Chagall,
475
00:27:29,200 --> 00:27:31,120
Catherine Dior, his sister,
476
00:27:31,280 --> 00:27:33,680
Bernard Buffet, of course.
477
00:27:33,840 --> 00:27:35,120
It is fairly impressive.
478
00:27:35,280 --> 00:27:36,880
June 13, June 15.
479
00:27:37,040 --> 00:27:39,600
Clearly, Bernard Buffet
was a regular visitor.
480
00:27:46,360 --> 00:27:49,200
On his desk,
you can see the cover of Time.
481
00:27:49,360 --> 00:27:53,840
Back then, it was unheard of
for Time to put a dressmaker on the cover.
482
00:27:54,000 --> 00:27:56,040
I like his phone.
It has two saved numbers.
483
00:27:56,200 --> 00:27:58,520
His sister and the office.
484
00:27:58,680 --> 00:28:02,880
To imagine him still alive
and to feel his presence,
485
00:28:03,040 --> 00:28:05,160
for me, is actually very important.
486
00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:06,720
Sometimes, I talk to him.
487
00:28:06,880 --> 00:28:08,000
It's a dialogue.
488
00:28:08,160 --> 00:28:12,000
It's almost like I'm asking him
if he is proud of me.
489
00:28:12,160 --> 00:28:14,640
It sounds totally insane, I know.
490
00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:24,960
J'adore is Dior
in an exaggerated femininity
491
00:28:25,120 --> 00:28:28,440
and an accomplished femininity.
492
00:28:28,600 --> 00:28:33,160
Maybe we need to restore its density,
something plump, voluptuous.
493
00:28:33,320 --> 00:28:37,040
Something more carnal, more addictive.
494
00:28:47,680 --> 00:28:51,680
[music fades]
495
00:28:51,920 --> 00:28:55,920
PARIS, FRANCE
NIGHT BEFORE THE DIOR FASHION SHOW
496
00:28:56,080 --> 00:28:58,800
[magnificent music]
497
00:28:59,600 --> 00:29:01,880
[hubbub]
498
00:29:02,120 --> 00:29:06,200
And I think all the people are very happy
to see you with this jacket and this.
499
00:29:06,360 --> 00:29:07,680
It's like so comfortable.
500
00:29:07,840 --> 00:29:09,760
All of this is so comfortable.
501
00:29:09,920 --> 00:29:13,400
I love it. I'm so excited for tomorrow.
502
00:29:13,560 --> 00:29:15,000
I have not been to a show...
503
00:29:15,160 --> 00:29:16,600
Yes, I know. I'm really...
504
00:29:16,760 --> 00:29:18,720
...in 8 years or something.
It's been so long.
505
00:29:18,880 --> 00:29:21,600
[hubbub]
506
00:29:21,840 --> 00:29:24,240
-You want to sit?
-Yes, absolutely.
507
00:29:24,960 --> 00:29:28,280
[indistinct chattering]
508
00:29:28,440 --> 00:29:30,480
You're inspired by young people, right?
509
00:29:30,640 --> 00:29:34,160
Absolutely. I travel
all the time with my team.
510
00:29:34,320 --> 00:29:36,480
[intense music]
511
00:29:36,720 --> 00:29:39,480
-Focus. Focus.
-I'm sorry!
512
00:29:39,640 --> 00:29:41,680
Oh, wow. Look at this.
513
00:29:42,600 --> 00:29:43,640
It's very nice.
514
00:29:44,240 --> 00:29:45,320
Oh, wow.
515
00:29:45,480 --> 00:29:47,560
-It's a pearl?
-Yes.
516
00:29:47,720 --> 00:29:51,040
[indistinct chattering]
517
00:29:51,840 --> 00:29:53,520
Oh, my God. This is amazing too.
518
00:29:59,520 --> 00:30:00,960
-Beautiful.
-Thank you.
519
00:30:05,880 --> 00:30:09,400
Incredible. Wow. So amazing.
520
00:30:09,720 --> 00:30:16,680
I feel honored that Charlize Theron
appreciates my clothes
521
00:30:16,840 --> 00:30:20,960
because she is a woman
who doesn't just represent an icon
522
00:30:21,120 --> 00:30:25,520
as an actress, but also as an individual.
523
00:30:25,880 --> 00:30:31,520
Her strength, her independence
and her incredible talent.
524
00:30:31,840 --> 00:30:37,360
There's no need to recount
Charlize's career
525
00:30:37,520 --> 00:30:39,720
to prove
526
00:30:39,880 --> 00:30:45,080
the strength she embodies.
527
00:30:45,240 --> 00:30:49,800
[soft music]
528
00:30:53,960 --> 00:30:57,120
PARIS, FRANCE
JARDIN DES TUILERIES, DIOR FASHION SHOW
529
00:30:57,960 --> 00:30:59,800
[upbeat music]
530
00:31:01,960 --> 00:31:03,920
[Francis] Inspiration is very personal.
531
00:31:05,000 --> 00:31:07,640
As a perfumer, anything can be inspiring.
532
00:31:08,760 --> 00:31:11,800
In a house like Dior,
fashion is, of course, one source.
533
00:31:12,720 --> 00:31:15,560
My passion for fragrance comes
from my love of fashion,
534
00:31:15,720 --> 00:31:19,640
and more precisely,
the craftsmanship behind the fashion.
535
00:31:20,640 --> 00:31:23,000
I grew up around it.
My grandfather was a tailor.
536
00:31:23,160 --> 00:31:24,560
My mother sewed beautifully.
537
00:31:25,640 --> 00:31:27,520
I remember the rolls of fabric.
538
00:31:27,680 --> 00:31:29,200
I can spend hours in a studio
539
00:31:29,360 --> 00:31:32,240
watching people work,
needlework as my grandparents called it.
540
00:31:45,880 --> 00:31:48,800
I wanted to be a designer,
but since I can't draw,
541
00:31:48,960 --> 00:31:52,680
I decided that being
a perfumer for a designer
542
00:31:52,840 --> 00:31:54,840
would definitely be
543
00:31:55,000 --> 00:31:58,040
a way into this profession
that I admire so much.
544
00:31:59,360 --> 00:32:01,040
It is a twist of fate.
545
00:32:03,760 --> 00:32:09,880
[paparazzi chatting]
546
00:32:12,120 --> 00:32:14,240
[in English]
I'm a very, very big fan of Maria Grazia.
547
00:32:14,400 --> 00:32:17,920
I find her to be
a phenomenal talent, artist, woman.
548
00:32:18,080 --> 00:32:20,360
She's such an incredible
spirit to be around.
549
00:32:20,520 --> 00:32:24,200
So, to be able to share
some of what has inspired her
550
00:32:24,360 --> 00:32:26,240
through art and clothes,
551
00:32:26,400 --> 00:32:28,920
to share that with her
today is really exciting.
552
00:32:29,880 --> 00:32:31,360
Thank you so much.
553
00:32:31,600 --> 00:32:34,360
[magnificent music]
554
00:32:37,160 --> 00:32:42,240
[speaks in Mandarin]
555
00:33:01,000 --> 00:33:04,400
[the pace picks up]
556
00:33:53,360 --> 00:33:55,040
[Francis in French]
Shows are always magical.
557
00:33:55,200 --> 00:33:58,200
And what I'm drawn to
when I look at Maria Grazia's work
558
00:33:58,360 --> 00:34:00,280
is the way she uses lines.
559
00:34:00,440 --> 00:34:03,800
The line of a garment,
when I transpose it into perfume,
560
00:34:03,960 --> 00:34:05,600
is almost an olfactory family.
561
00:34:05,760 --> 00:34:07,520
It can be reinterpreted infinitely.
562
00:34:07,680 --> 00:34:11,360
PARIS, FRANCE
HAUTE COUTURE STUDIO
563
00:34:11,520 --> 00:34:14,280
[magnificent music]
564
00:34:15,400 --> 00:34:18,800
[Hongbo] This is the House of Dior
haute couture studio.
565
00:34:18,960 --> 00:34:21,639
We're currently working
on a design by Maria Grazia.
566
00:34:22,360 --> 00:34:27,960
Charlize Theron will wear this dress
for the next J'adore campaign.
567
00:34:28,120 --> 00:34:30,679
Here, you have more detail
with the draping.
568
00:34:30,840 --> 00:34:32,480
Braids around the neckline
569
00:34:32,639 --> 00:34:35,840
and parts of the dress will be
braided into the neckline.
570
00:34:36,000 --> 00:34:37,080
It's quite Grecian.
571
00:34:52,080 --> 00:34:55,840
[in Italian] The first thing that
characterizes a person is their perfume.
572
00:34:56,000 --> 00:34:58,280
The fragrance changes
depending on the skin,
573
00:34:59,040 --> 00:35:04,200
just like clothing characterizes
the person wearing it.
574
00:35:04,360 --> 00:35:07,960
For Charlize, I really enjoyed
combining those two elements.
575
00:35:30,640 --> 00:35:32,880
[in English] Hello.
[in French] Welcome to Dior.
576
00:35:33,040 --> 00:35:34,680
XIN LIU, SINGER,
BRAND AMBASSADOR
577
00:35:34,840 --> 00:35:39,040
-[in English] My pleasure as well.
-This is my album "Xanadu".
578
00:35:39,200 --> 00:35:40,400
Thank you.
579
00:35:40,560 --> 00:35:43,400
[Francis in French] Today, I'm meeting
Xin Liu, our ambassador.
580
00:35:44,040 --> 00:35:46,000
Please follow me to the laboratory.
581
00:35:46,680 --> 00:35:52,120
This is Mariana, Cristina, Andrei.
They are perfumer assistants.
582
00:35:53,400 --> 00:35:59,560
[in Mandarin]
Today is my first time meeting a perfumer
583
00:35:59,720 --> 00:36:03,040
and understanding each stage
of composing a fragrance.
584
00:36:03,200 --> 00:36:05,240
I've been looking forward to it.
585
00:36:05,400 --> 00:36:07,280
[in French]
I will show you how I work.
586
00:36:07,440 --> 00:36:10,800
The project I'm currently working on
is to create a formula
587
00:36:10,960 --> 00:36:15,480
that is as accomplished as possible and...
I want to say as powerful as possible.
588
00:36:15,640 --> 00:36:19,720
It is like you taking
a piece of music that a singer
589
00:36:19,880 --> 00:36:21,120
created 25 years ago
590
00:36:21,280 --> 00:36:23,560
and you have to imagine
or you are entrusted
591
00:36:23,720 --> 00:36:25,600
to create a modern version.
592
00:36:25,760 --> 00:36:27,160
[in Mandarin] Like in music,
593
00:36:27,320 --> 00:36:30,920
you create harmonies
with the elements you blend?
594
00:36:31,080 --> 00:36:33,120
[in French] This is called a formula.
595
00:36:33,280 --> 00:36:35,080
It is like a piece of music.
596
00:36:35,680 --> 00:36:38,560
Each name here is
the name of an ingredient.
597
00:36:39,400 --> 00:36:43,600
Each ingredient corresponds
to a value, a weight.
598
00:36:44,640 --> 00:36:47,280
Like in music, notes have a duration.
599
00:36:48,600 --> 00:36:51,240
For this project, this is the first draft,
600
00:36:51,400 --> 00:36:53,120
like the first version of a song.
601
00:36:53,280 --> 00:36:55,600
It is the initial inspiration.
602
00:36:55,760 --> 00:36:59,840
And now, I'm at 74, 75, 76.
603
00:37:00,000 --> 00:37:05,120
So, I have already done
about 70 different versions
604
00:37:05,280 --> 00:37:07,960
or corrections of the same fragrance.
605
00:37:08,120 --> 00:37:13,040
[Xin Liu in Mandarin] My first contact
with scent was near my school.
606
00:37:13,200 --> 00:37:16,600
I spent a lot of time there
and there was a very sweet scent.
607
00:37:16,760 --> 00:37:20,800
At that time,
maybe because I had a sweet tooth,
608
00:37:20,960 --> 00:37:23,800
I was more sensitive to sweet scents,
609
00:37:23,960 --> 00:37:28,600
so, when I was younger,
I liked the fruitier notes.
610
00:37:32,680 --> 00:37:35,120
[Francis in French]
I'm going to ask you to smell
611
00:37:36,280 --> 00:37:39,600
the same flower from two different places.
612
00:37:41,520 --> 00:37:43,840
You need several thousand flowers...
613
00:37:44,000 --> 00:37:47,720
For a single drop,
you need several thousand flowers.
614
00:37:49,160 --> 00:37:51,200
[magnificent music]
615
00:38:00,720 --> 00:38:04,960
[Carole] When you're in Grasse,
you have something extra in your DNA,
616
00:38:05,120 --> 00:38:06,560
the DNA of flowers.
617
00:38:06,720 --> 00:38:09,840
In our families, through the generations,
618
00:38:10,000 --> 00:38:11,360
many were producers
619
00:38:11,520 --> 00:38:13,880
or worked in perfume factories.
620
00:38:14,040 --> 00:38:15,920
It is three centuries of history.
621
00:38:19,280 --> 00:38:23,720
The foundations of perfumery are built on
622
00:38:23,880 --> 00:38:26,280
a flower's quality,
623
00:38:26,440 --> 00:38:28,880
such as rose, jasmine,
tuberose, orange blossom,
624
00:38:29,040 --> 00:38:31,360
which are extraordinary here.
625
00:38:31,520 --> 00:38:34,880
That is how the story begins.
626
00:38:39,400 --> 00:38:44,280
[Armelle] Look, your 450 kilos are
on their way. Isn't this plot amazing?
627
00:38:44,440 --> 00:38:46,720
-[Francis] It's a beautiful plot.
-[Armelle] Beautiful, right?
628
00:38:46,880 --> 00:38:50,280
[Armelle] This plot is three years old.
It is still young.
629
00:38:50,440 --> 00:38:54,000
It is off to a really great start.
It is very consistent.
630
00:38:54,560 --> 00:38:55,600
[Francis] So good.
631
00:38:55,760 --> 00:38:58,680
A few days ago, they smelled like lemons
632
00:38:58,840 --> 00:39:00,800
and geraniol, but really strongly.
633
00:39:00,960 --> 00:39:04,320
And now, boom, it has changed
to notes of talcum powder.
634
00:39:04,480 --> 00:39:05,760
Don't you think?
635
00:39:05,920 --> 00:39:08,920
[Francis] I think they have lost
some of their spicier notes.
636
00:39:09,080 --> 00:39:13,520
Picking roses is not
something I had experience with.
637
00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:16,000
I think it is important, being at Dior,
638
00:39:16,160 --> 00:39:17,800
to experience this initiation.
639
00:39:17,960 --> 00:39:20,680
As if I needed to woo the flowers too
640
00:39:20,840 --> 00:39:22,960
to make them reveal their final secret.
641
00:39:24,800 --> 00:39:28,080
[Armelle] The partnership with Dior
is not important. It is essential.
642
00:39:28,240 --> 00:39:32,080
Not just for me,
but for the region as a whole.
643
00:39:33,760 --> 00:39:37,400
The idea is that everyone contributes
644
00:39:37,560 --> 00:39:38,840
their best qualities.
645
00:39:39,000 --> 00:39:40,680
Dior has the means
646
00:39:40,840 --> 00:39:42,160
and we have know-how,
647
00:39:42,320 --> 00:39:45,760
expertise and experience.
648
00:39:46,880 --> 00:39:50,720
If a house like Dior had no need
for products like these,
649
00:39:51,440 --> 00:39:54,080
we would disappear, pure and simple.
650
00:39:59,360 --> 00:40:01,840
[Pascal] The flowers look like this
when we gather them.
651
00:40:02,000 --> 00:40:04,000
We use the foosball technique.
652
00:40:04,840 --> 00:40:06,760
You take it and break it.
653
00:40:09,920 --> 00:40:13,520
In 2016, Parfums Christian Dior
were looking for producers
654
00:40:13,680 --> 00:40:14,800
for fragrant plants,
655
00:40:15,840 --> 00:40:18,920
so we put ourselves forward
to work with them.
656
00:40:19,080 --> 00:40:21,640
We had to find some of the veterans
657
00:40:21,800 --> 00:40:23,000
to teach the young ones
658
00:40:23,160 --> 00:40:26,360
and redevelop an industry
that was disappearing.
659
00:40:29,440 --> 00:40:32,600
Here, on the plantations,
we don't use any chemicals.
660
00:40:32,760 --> 00:40:34,920
I think the fewer the products,
the better we feel.
661
00:40:35,280 --> 00:40:36,480
I like doing this.
662
00:40:36,640 --> 00:40:38,760
It's lovely to see them open up.
663
00:40:42,640 --> 00:40:45,240
This is the baby centifolia.
664
00:40:47,240 --> 00:40:50,640
[Carole] As a producer,
we are concerned about scent.
665
00:40:50,800 --> 00:40:54,040
The flowers have to be picked
at exactly the right moment,
666
00:40:54,200 --> 00:40:56,600
when they are the most fragrant.
667
00:40:56,760 --> 00:41:00,520
We take great care
in respecting the raw material
668
00:41:00,680 --> 00:41:02,520
and delivering it promptly
669
00:41:03,120 --> 00:41:05,280
to avoid maceration or oxidation.
670
00:41:05,440 --> 00:41:09,400
When I arrive at the factory,
I want them to be
671
00:41:09,560 --> 00:41:12,320
the most beautiful, fragrant and intense.
672
00:41:12,920 --> 00:41:14,800
[engine roar]
673
00:41:22,640 --> 00:41:24,680
[magnificent music builds up slowly]
674
00:41:24,880 --> 00:41:26,120
Shall we put them there?
675
00:41:48,440 --> 00:41:52,280
[Carole] The fragrant flowers,
plants and natural ingredients
676
00:41:52,440 --> 00:41:54,880
have to go through an industrial process
677
00:41:55,040 --> 00:41:59,840
to extract the scent
from the fragrant body.
678
00:42:00,000 --> 00:42:03,680
The aim is to capture
all the scent molecules
679
00:42:03,840 --> 00:42:05,840
found in all of these flowers.
680
00:42:06,720 --> 00:42:10,000
This process results
in the creation of a substance
681
00:42:10,160 --> 00:42:12,560
known as the absolute essential oil.
682
00:42:16,240 --> 00:42:19,160
Past generations described it as absolute
683
00:42:19,320 --> 00:42:23,040
because it captures
the very spirit of the flower.
684
00:42:23,200 --> 00:42:26,560
Today, we simply call it the absolute.
685
00:42:28,000 --> 00:42:32,240
All of these techniques,
these skills, this expertise,
686
00:42:32,400 --> 00:42:36,040
which can't be studied in books
and are typical to Grasse,
687
00:42:37,120 --> 00:42:39,760
were part of something
that very nearly disappeared.
688
00:42:40,320 --> 00:42:43,680
It's a story of the heart,
689
00:42:43,840 --> 00:42:46,280
a story of heart and soul.
690
00:42:50,120 --> 00:42:52,400
[music slowly fades]
691
00:42:52,880 --> 00:42:54,400
-[Francis] Mariana?
-[Mariana] Yes.
692
00:42:54,560 --> 00:42:57,240
Tell me. Can you make me blend 11,
693
00:42:57,400 --> 00:43:02,720
the latest one, fresh,
and number 12, okay?
694
00:43:05,520 --> 00:43:07,960
For the solution, make it at 20%.
695
00:43:09,520 --> 00:43:12,560
And if we have Jasmodione,
I'd like to get another smell.
696
00:43:12,720 --> 00:43:16,480
I'd like them... pure.
697
00:43:18,480 --> 00:43:19,400
Thank you.
698
00:43:21,520 --> 00:43:23,640
[reflective music]
699
00:43:27,160 --> 00:43:30,280
[Francis] When I don't get what I want,
there are two solutions.
700
00:43:30,720 --> 00:43:33,000
Either I started off on the wrong foot
701
00:43:33,160 --> 00:43:35,680
or it has been badly translated.
702
00:43:38,200 --> 00:43:41,000
It has to be good, but, well...
703
00:43:44,440 --> 00:43:46,920
There is a sense
of frustration to not get...
704
00:43:47,080 --> 00:43:50,440
It's all there, the name, everything.
705
00:43:50,600 --> 00:43:52,360
Everything, but the main event.
706
00:43:56,520 --> 00:43:58,320
[Herve] In 1997,
707
00:43:58,480 --> 00:44:01,160
I was selected to design
the shape of the bottle
708
00:44:01,320 --> 00:44:05,240
because I designed jewelry and items
that were precious, feminine,
709
00:44:05,960 --> 00:44:08,560
and golden.
710
00:44:08,720 --> 00:44:11,360
I am not a fragrance specialist.
711
00:44:12,520 --> 00:44:15,720
When I was asked to design the bottle,
my initial inspiration
712
00:44:15,880 --> 00:44:17,880
came from the forms of John Galliano,
713
00:44:18,760 --> 00:44:21,080
sinuous and elongated
714
00:44:21,240 --> 00:44:22,960
with extremely long necks.
715
00:44:23,120 --> 00:44:27,120
For me, it was only natural
to design a bottle in harmony
716
00:44:27,280 --> 00:44:29,480
with these extremely feminine forms.
717
00:44:31,840 --> 00:44:34,600
I tried putting the name on the bottle,
718
00:44:34,760 --> 00:44:37,080
putting it in gold, in relief, everything,
719
00:44:37,240 --> 00:44:40,600
but it ruined the shape
and made it seem ordinary.
720
00:44:41,040 --> 00:44:45,480
We came up with the idea of putting
the name under the crystal droplet,
721
00:44:45,640 --> 00:44:49,400
like a hallmark on a piece of jewelry
or a precious object.
722
00:44:49,560 --> 00:44:50,920
That was revolutionary.
723
00:44:54,080 --> 00:44:55,440
The bottle is alive.
724
00:44:55,600 --> 00:44:57,960
As long as we keep this shape,
which is precise
725
00:44:58,120 --> 00:44:59,840
and both restricted and generous,
726
00:45:00,000 --> 00:45:02,680
it remains extremely modern.
727
00:45:02,840 --> 00:45:06,640
Therefore,
this bottle can live several lives.
728
00:45:06,800 --> 00:45:09,320
PACKAGING DESIGN STUDIO
729
00:45:09,480 --> 00:45:11,360
[soft music]
730
00:45:12,120 --> 00:45:14,320
[Rozenn] The gold will feature
on the upper part.
731
00:45:14,480 --> 00:45:17,120
Technically, it might give it more purity.
732
00:45:17,280 --> 00:45:18,760
[woman] Something smoother.
733
00:45:21,120 --> 00:45:23,800
The way you read the current J’adore,
734
00:45:23,960 --> 00:45:28,000
it is a droplet,
a necklace and pearl on top.
735
00:45:28,160 --> 00:45:31,000
Here, I get the impression
that you want a monolith.
736
00:45:31,160 --> 00:45:35,040
[man] Exactly. There are no more levels.
It is a single unit.
737
00:45:35,200 --> 00:45:39,240
[Rozenn] You want a smooth curve.
738
00:45:39,400 --> 00:45:43,160
-Yes. Stripped down, purified.
-I see. That's interesting.
739
00:45:43,560 --> 00:45:47,480
It could be interesting to move away
from the traditional ore.
740
00:45:47,640 --> 00:45:50,520
Exactly. The necklace
with fewer details and...
741
00:45:50,680 --> 00:45:53,800
And we'll see
if we end up leaving it smooth.
742
00:45:53,960 --> 00:45:57,440
-Here, you...
-[Rozenn] You want a little vibration,
743
00:45:57,600 --> 00:46:00,400
just to simulate the necklace
744
00:46:00,560 --> 00:46:02,200
with a slight deflection,
745
00:46:02,360 --> 00:46:04,680
but not too much,
so it is just a suggestion,
746
00:46:04,840 --> 00:46:07,120
without being too ornamental.
747
00:46:07,280 --> 00:46:10,640
I think we need to purify the bottle
as much as possible,
748
00:46:10,800 --> 00:46:13,720
in terms of J’adore's story. Okay.
749
00:46:13,880 --> 00:46:16,760
[soft beat]
750
00:46:20,040 --> 00:46:22,400
TOKYO, JAPAN
751
00:46:22,560 --> 00:46:29,360
I'm invited to the 500th anniversary
of the Kōdō ceremony in Japan.
752
00:46:29,520 --> 00:46:30,680
[intense music]
753
00:46:30,840 --> 00:46:36,040
For me, Japan encapsulates the dialogue
between tradition and modernity.
754
00:46:39,040 --> 00:46:40,920
In my current process,
755
00:46:41,800 --> 00:46:44,560
modernity means simplifying things
as much as possible.
756
00:46:44,720 --> 00:46:45,960
It is an obsession.
757
00:46:54,160 --> 00:46:56,840
So, this invitation came
at exactly the right time.
758
00:47:01,360 --> 00:47:04,480
The Kōdō ceremony is a Kyoto tradition.
759
00:47:04,640 --> 00:47:06,520
Kōdō means "the way of fragrance."
760
00:47:06,680 --> 00:47:09,160
When the Japanese say,
"Listen to the fragrance,"
761
00:47:09,320 --> 00:47:11,360
it goes beyond the scent.
762
00:47:11,520 --> 00:47:13,840
It's about feeling the fragrance.
763
00:47:18,000 --> 00:47:21,520
Without doubt, with J'adore,
the aim is to capture that idea.
764
00:47:23,720 --> 00:47:26,720
A kōdō session keeps me grounded.
765
00:47:26,880 --> 00:47:30,040
It forces me into myself
to stop me from moving too fast.
766
00:47:30,560 --> 00:47:34,640
[in Japanese] The art of kōdō
began here, 500 years ago,
767
00:47:34,800 --> 00:47:37,560
at the Ginkaku-ji temple, in Kyoto.
768
00:47:38,400 --> 00:47:41,720
In the art of kōdō,
we smell koboku, natural wood incense
769
00:47:41,880 --> 00:47:46,920
gathered in southeast Asia,
including Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.
770
00:47:47,080 --> 00:47:49,960
Using the ashes, a small mound is formed
771
00:47:50,920 --> 00:47:55,000
on which lines are traced
representing the five elements,
772
00:47:55,160 --> 00:48:01,600
wood, fire, earth, metal and water.
773
00:48:01,760 --> 00:48:07,640
The wood incense is placed
on top of the mound
774
00:48:08,440 --> 00:48:13,400
and is held with the palm of the hand,
guiding the fragrance into the nose.
775
00:48:14,160 --> 00:48:16,960
The fragrance is inhaled
deep into the heart.
776
00:48:17,120 --> 00:48:21,680
Rich in natural essences,
it lifts our spirits.
777
00:48:21,840 --> 00:48:24,680
I am sure that Francis feels something
778
00:48:24,840 --> 00:48:28,240
when he "listens"
to the fragrance of incense.
779
00:48:30,280 --> 00:48:32,760
[Francis in French]
It takes absolute concentration
780
00:48:32,920 --> 00:48:35,560
to ensure that every gesture is perfect,
781
00:48:35,720 --> 00:48:38,520
using as little energy as possible.
782
00:48:41,040 --> 00:48:42,880
And to feel it, experience it,
783
00:48:43,600 --> 00:48:46,200
in terms of where I am now, for me,
784
00:48:46,360 --> 00:48:48,640
is very important for the J'adore project.
785
00:48:48,880 --> 00:48:50,960
[peaceful music]
786
00:48:58,920 --> 00:49:01,160
After days and weeks of work,
787
00:49:01,320 --> 00:49:04,160
certainties, doubts, renouncements,
788
00:49:04,320 --> 00:49:06,080
I think we have succeeded.
789
00:49:06,240 --> 00:49:08,680
Can you make up a solution, just a vial,
790
00:49:08,840 --> 00:49:11,040
5ml, please? Thank you.
791
00:49:11,760 --> 00:49:15,640
This new version is clear and evident,
792
00:49:16,680 --> 00:49:19,000
but different from my last offering
793
00:49:19,160 --> 00:49:20,760
that was very well received.
794
00:49:20,920 --> 00:49:22,560
But, well, I think you have to
795
00:49:22,720 --> 00:49:24,880
follow through on your ideas
and convictions.
796
00:49:25,040 --> 00:49:27,960
I hope they join me
on this new interpretation.
797
00:49:28,120 --> 00:49:31,640
There's a great quote from Monsieur Dior
that is in my office. It says,
798
00:49:31,800 --> 00:49:34,080
"Respect tradition and dare to be bold."
799
00:49:34,240 --> 00:49:37,200
And that is what I'm trying to do today.
800
00:49:37,360 --> 00:49:41,840
Francis wanted to take some space
between the two olfactory sessions.
801
00:49:42,000 --> 00:49:43,640
It's been a while now.
802
00:49:43,800 --> 00:49:46,960
He went to Japan.
He must have cleared his mind
803
00:49:47,120 --> 00:49:49,520
and seen things,
so my expectations are high.
804
00:49:58,320 --> 00:50:00,440
I know this will shake things up.
I'm aware.
805
00:50:00,600 --> 00:50:03,880
But with this new proposition,
I am utterly convinced.
806
00:50:04,040 --> 00:50:07,240
There is a different way
of envisaging the story of J'adore
807
00:50:07,400 --> 00:50:08,720
and that's what I've brought.
808
00:50:08,880 --> 00:50:11,720
I have a new proposition
that I have called "I Love Gold."
809
00:50:11,880 --> 00:50:16,080
The quest for gold,
the evaporation of impurities,
810
00:50:16,240 --> 00:50:18,040
it is all part of the same story.
811
00:50:18,200 --> 00:50:20,640
It is just another way
of articulating the formula
812
00:50:20,800 --> 00:50:23,480
and restoring that fullness, right?
813
00:50:23,640 --> 00:50:26,760
Rounded, solar and feminine qualities,
814
00:50:26,920 --> 00:50:29,440
but not passive femininity,
something very bold.
815
00:50:29,600 --> 00:50:31,200
That is the basic concept.
816
00:50:32,240 --> 00:50:33,320
[Sana] Thank you.
817
00:50:38,760 --> 00:50:40,040
[Véronique] Uh-uh...
818
00:50:40,200 --> 00:50:43,560
[Francis] You have Dior's key flowers,
jasmine and rose.
819
00:50:43,720 --> 00:50:47,800
-[Sana] It is more rounded.
-It is more rounded because...
820
00:50:49,160 --> 00:50:53,360
I actually reduced the more...
classic floral notes
821
00:50:53,520 --> 00:50:56,080
-from the original.
-Slightly drier, powdery.
822
00:50:56,240 --> 00:50:58,040
Drier and powdery, exactly.
823
00:50:58,200 --> 00:51:01,480
It is almost like
the aldehydes of the 1970s.
824
00:51:02,160 --> 00:51:05,560
[Véronique] It is...
There is such a big difference.
825
00:51:06,120 --> 00:51:09,400
Actually, I was bothered
by this slightly opaque note.
826
00:51:09,560 --> 00:51:12,120
It was matte, like brushed gold.
827
00:51:12,280 --> 00:51:15,120
I wanted something
more dazzling, more luminous.
828
00:51:15,280 --> 00:51:17,200
I think your trace is certainly there.
829
00:51:17,360 --> 00:51:19,240
-Now, we just have to...
-A signature.
830
00:51:19,400 --> 00:51:24,720
I think that the fruity aspect
gives it a sense of brightness,
831
00:51:24,880 --> 00:51:27,080
joy and youthfulness.
832
00:51:28,320 --> 00:51:31,120
I almost feel ashamed
because with the last one,
833
00:51:31,280 --> 00:51:33,160
I was already pretty happy.
834
00:51:33,320 --> 00:51:34,680
-But now...
-[Sana] I was too.
835
00:51:34,840 --> 00:51:37,680
You know, this was a big step, so...
836
00:51:37,840 --> 00:51:40,240
-[Kevin] I am convinced.
-This is...
837
00:51:40,400 --> 00:51:42,760
Something totally evident.
838
00:51:42,920 --> 00:51:45,120
[Francis] Yes, it is easier
to understand. It's less...
839
00:51:45,280 --> 00:51:46,240
It is very direct.
840
00:51:46,400 --> 00:51:50,200
[Sana] It smells good in every sense
of the word, I'd say.
841
00:51:50,360 --> 00:51:53,040
We are very much in agreement.
Yes, let's go.
842
00:51:53,200 --> 00:51:56,600
I didn't think we'd say that
given how much I liked the last one.
843
00:51:56,760 --> 00:51:58,040
It is a magical moment.
844
00:51:58,760 --> 00:52:01,080
Any doubts I might have had vanished,
845
00:52:01,640 --> 00:52:05,080
and I'm relieved because it was
a blank page, this story with Dior.
846
00:52:05,240 --> 00:52:06,880
[Véronique] Decision made!
847
00:52:07,360 --> 00:52:08,200
Bravo!
848
00:52:09,320 --> 00:52:10,840
It's quite exhilarating.
849
00:52:11,520 --> 00:52:13,760
I am happy, truly.
850
00:52:13,920 --> 00:52:17,640
Because when you approve
a new olfactive composition,
851
00:52:17,800 --> 00:52:20,640
you're approving part of Dior's history.
852
00:52:20,800 --> 00:52:22,280
It is brilliant for us.
853
00:52:22,440 --> 00:52:24,040
[intense music]
854
00:53:17,560 --> 00:53:21,400
Seeing your fragrance suddenly
come to life on the production lines
855
00:53:21,560 --> 00:53:23,440
is a very special feeling.
856
00:53:23,600 --> 00:53:27,080
It is amazing
and a huge moment. It's all there.
857
00:53:27,240 --> 00:53:28,440
The fragrance lives.
858
00:53:44,440 --> 00:53:46,000
Every new fragrance
859
00:53:46,160 --> 00:53:49,080
is a massive celebration
of the spirit of the House of Dior
860
00:53:49,240 --> 00:53:50,360
and of Christian Dior.
861
00:53:50,880 --> 00:53:53,360
So I wanted to thank you from the heart.
862
00:53:53,520 --> 00:53:55,280
Thank you and thanks for your time.
863
00:53:55,440 --> 00:53:57,360
[applause]
864
00:54:00,120 --> 00:54:03,000
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
865
00:54:03,160 --> 00:54:05,600
-[Charlize] So this is it? I'm so excited.
-[Francis] This is it.
866
00:54:05,760 --> 00:54:06,960
Yay.
867
00:54:07,120 --> 00:54:10,560
This is so special
that I get to smell this with you.
868
00:54:10,720 --> 00:54:12,080
Merci beaucoup. Thank you.
869
00:54:12,240 --> 00:54:14,840
It's very special to me
as well as you can imagine.
870
00:54:19,200 --> 00:54:21,360
Oh, my gosh. It's so...
871
00:54:22,040 --> 00:54:23,040
Delicious.
872
00:54:23,840 --> 00:54:25,200
Wow.
873
00:54:25,360 --> 00:54:28,160
A much more complex floral scent.
874
00:54:29,000 --> 00:54:30,520
So good.
875
00:54:31,560 --> 00:54:33,480
Really is so good.
876
00:54:34,520 --> 00:54:35,960
Oh, wow.
877
00:54:36,120 --> 00:54:37,920
Well, you made me so happy today.
878
00:54:38,080 --> 00:54:40,880
Thank you so much
for coming and meeting me.
879
00:54:41,040 --> 00:54:44,800
And I love it.
It's really... L'Or is amazing.
880
00:54:44,960 --> 00:54:47,440
-We'll see how it feels on your skin.
-It's beautiful.
881
00:54:47,600 --> 00:54:49,280
Maybe after the eau de parfum.
882
00:54:49,440 --> 00:54:50,480
Congratulations.
883
00:54:51,280 --> 00:54:52,880
-Thank you.
-So nice to meet you.
884
00:54:53,040 --> 00:54:53,680
Thank you.
885
00:54:53,840 --> 00:54:55,080
[peaceful music]
886
00:54:58,320 --> 00:55:00,160
LA, CALIFORNIA
FITTING FOR AD CAMPAIGN
887
00:55:00,840 --> 00:55:04,960
Hongbo, you've made
so many dresses for me. I am so lucky.
888
00:55:05,680 --> 00:55:08,440
This is my honor. I'm so lucky too.
889
00:55:09,880 --> 00:55:11,040
So pretty.
890
00:55:11,200 --> 00:55:13,480
-Very delicate.
-Yes. Like me.
891
00:55:14,240 --> 00:55:15,400
Of course.
892
00:55:15,560 --> 00:55:16,200
Always.
893
00:55:19,720 --> 00:55:22,160
You feel good?
Yes. I love it.
894
00:55:23,240 --> 00:55:24,080
-You ready?
-Yeah.
895
00:55:24,240 --> 00:55:26,240
Okay. Are you going to help me?
896
00:55:26,920 --> 00:55:28,080
Don't let me fall.
897
00:55:30,200 --> 00:55:31,240
[laughter]
898
00:55:31,480 --> 00:55:32,400
[peaceful music]
899
00:55:32,560 --> 00:55:34,480
PARIS, FRANCE
LAUNCH DAY
900
00:55:54,320 --> 00:55:56,920
[Véronique] Monsieur Dior
was always close to artists.
901
00:55:57,080 --> 00:55:59,440
For us, it is part
of our mission to continue
902
00:55:59,600 --> 00:56:03,480
this house's special connection
to the art world.
903
00:56:05,840 --> 00:56:06,800
We wanted
904
00:56:06,960 --> 00:56:10,080
Jean-Michel Othoniel to take on
this magnificent J'adore
905
00:56:10,240 --> 00:56:13,080
with an exceptional limited edition.
906
00:56:14,640 --> 00:56:15,600
[shout]
907
00:56:16,440 --> 00:56:17,560
[Jean-Michel] As a sculptor,
908
00:56:17,720 --> 00:56:20,280
I am better known
for monumental outdoor pieces.
909
00:56:20,960 --> 00:56:22,240
The thing I love about this
910
00:56:22,400 --> 00:56:25,000
is reducing a sculpture
to a more intimate scale.
911
00:56:25,160 --> 00:56:27,480
I wanted the piece to be
close to the fragrance,
912
00:56:27,640 --> 00:56:29,840
meaning it sits like a necklace
913
00:56:30,000 --> 00:56:31,880
that takes the shape of a rose
914
00:56:32,040 --> 00:56:35,760
that is set on the bottle like a jewel.
915
00:56:36,320 --> 00:56:37,440
[thrilling music]
916
00:56:37,640 --> 00:56:41,400
It is not just a fragrance;
it is a work of art.
917
00:56:53,000 --> 00:56:55,320
[Francis] A fragrance launch doesn't
make me nervous.
918
00:56:55,480 --> 00:56:56,760
It is more than that.
919
00:57:00,800 --> 00:57:02,520
Did I get the job done?
920
00:57:02,840 --> 00:57:04,360
Will people like it?
921
00:57:04,520 --> 00:57:06,960
Will women feel beautiful wearing it?
922
00:57:07,120 --> 00:57:09,360
Will it...? A creator is never satisfied.
923
00:57:10,520 --> 00:57:12,640
But it's fine. It's part of the package.
924
00:57:12,800 --> 00:57:14,840
After 30 years, you live with it.
925
00:57:27,120 --> 00:57:28,880
[Véronique]
It is an emotional moment for me
926
00:57:29,040 --> 00:57:31,240
because I think about every person
927
00:57:31,400 --> 00:57:34,880
who has played a part, of course,
Francis, first and foremost,
928
00:57:35,040 --> 00:57:38,520
but all of the helping hands,
everyone behind the scenes
929
00:57:38,680 --> 00:57:40,280
who carries this fragrance
930
00:57:40,440 --> 00:57:42,560
and who will make this launch a success.
931
00:57:42,720 --> 00:57:45,920
For that, I am
extremely proud of this team.
932
00:57:48,920 --> 00:57:52,920
It is a feeling
that is impossible to describe.
933
00:57:54,440 --> 00:57:57,280
It is the culmination of weeks of work
934
00:57:58,040 --> 00:58:00,080
and suddenly, the fragrance comes alive.
935
00:58:00,600 --> 00:58:04,000
It now belongs
to all those who will wear it.
936
00:58:05,960 --> 00:58:07,520
How are you? Good to see you.
937
00:58:07,680 --> 00:58:09,360
[music builds up]
938
00:58:31,000 --> 00:58:33,120
[music fades]
939
00:58:33,280 --> 00:58:34,120
[bass sound]
940
00:58:34,280 --> 00:58:35,880
PARIS, FRANCE
A FEW DAYS LATER
941
00:58:59,160 --> 00:59:00,760
[soft piano music]
942
00:59:09,440 --> 00:59:11,960
[Francis] Months ago, at the archives,
I came across a letter
943
00:59:12,120 --> 00:59:13,680
from August 23, 1950.
944
00:59:15,240 --> 00:59:16,200
This is a letter.
945
00:59:16,360 --> 00:59:18,680
It refers to a perfume
that was maybe never made.
946
00:59:18,840 --> 00:59:20,960
Is this the only letter we have?
947
00:59:21,120 --> 00:59:23,760
The surprising and amazing thing
about this letter
948
00:59:23,920 --> 00:59:25,960
is that Christian Dior mentions
949
00:59:26,120 --> 00:59:28,440
a fragrance that he desires,
950
00:59:28,960 --> 00:59:30,040
a dream fragrance.
951
00:59:30,480 --> 00:59:32,400
He lists the main ingredients.
952
00:59:33,360 --> 00:59:36,560
Three notes. I won't say any more.
953
00:59:36,720 --> 00:59:38,520
Looking through the archives,
954
00:59:38,680 --> 00:59:41,200
there is no fragrance
that uses those three notes.
955
00:59:42,160 --> 00:59:44,240
-After Diorama, it's...?
-[Frédéric] Eau Fraîche.
956
00:59:44,400 --> 00:59:45,880
-Very different.
-Five or six years later.
957
00:59:46,040 --> 00:59:47,800
Then it's Diorissimo.
958
00:59:52,800 --> 00:59:55,400
This letter is insane, totally insane.
959
00:59:55,560 --> 00:59:56,840
It drives me crazy.
960
00:59:58,600 --> 01:00:03,440
But it has an emotional power
that completely transcends me.
961
01:00:03,600 --> 01:00:06,600
It overwhelms me too, it...
962
01:00:08,240 --> 01:00:09,720
It is Dior's testament.
963
01:00:11,600 --> 01:00:15,680
This letter is Monsieur Dior's dream.
My dream is to make it a reality.
964
01:00:15,840 --> 01:00:18,720
[soft upbeat music]
965
01:01:46,000 --> 01:01:49,800
Subtitle translation: Elaine Scott
Subtitling: Hiventy by TransPerfect
71154
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