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-[sirens wailing in distance]
-[car horn honking]
2
00:00:09,175 --> 00:00:11,970
[Enninful] I've worked in fashion
for over 30 years,
3
00:00:14,264 --> 00:00:16,182
and I'm still crazy about it.
4
00:00:17,100 --> 00:00:18,101
How are you?
5
00:00:18,184 --> 00:00:20,645
As someone who's edited Vogue magazine,
6
00:00:20,729 --> 00:00:24,065
I guess I'm part of the establishment,
an insider.
7
00:00:25,400 --> 00:00:28,403
Maybe we need to break up
the column distributor...
8
00:00:30,113 --> 00:00:31,698
But that's not how I started.
9
00:00:33,825 --> 00:00:36,953
Back then, I couldn't have
been more of an outsider,
10
00:00:37,037 --> 00:00:38,413
maybe even a rebel.
11
00:00:38,496 --> 00:00:40,123
[metal screeching]
12
00:00:43,043 --> 00:00:45,503
[Enninful] One day,
I remember getting on the train
13
00:00:45,587 --> 00:00:46,796
and this man got up.
14
00:00:47,505 --> 00:00:50,008
Gave me his card,
and he wanted me to model for him.
15
00:00:51,134 --> 00:00:52,260
I didn't really know...
16
00:00:53,178 --> 00:00:54,721
[chuckles] what modelling was.
17
00:00:55,764 --> 00:00:57,682
Um, so I remember going home
18
00:00:57,766 --> 00:01:00,143
and my dad literally said,
"No, you can't model,"
19
00:01:00,226 --> 00:01:03,188
and my mum was like,
"No, not that industry, no."
20
00:01:03,855 --> 00:01:07,734
You know, like most 16-year-olds,
I just pressured her and pressured her,
21
00:01:08,902 --> 00:01:10,737
and this time she said, "Okay."
22
00:01:10,820 --> 00:01:13,740
That first shoot I was like...
It was so exhilarating.
23
00:01:14,949 --> 00:01:17,952
It's really amazing to think
that that train journey
24
00:01:18,036 --> 00:01:19,662
sort of changed my life.
25
00:01:19,746 --> 00:01:22,332
[♪ lively reggae music
SL2 "On A Ragga Tip" playing]
26
00:01:23,666 --> 00:01:25,001
[Enninful] And we were all so young,
27
00:01:25,085 --> 00:01:27,712
it felt like we were part
of something exciting
28
00:01:27,796 --> 00:01:30,423
that hadn't yet become mainstream.
29
00:01:33,551 --> 00:01:35,386
The underground scene
that I knew in London,
30
00:01:35,970 --> 00:01:37,847
the heart of it, was rebellion.
31
00:01:39,557 --> 00:01:42,602
We lived in bedsits,
we lived in unfurnished flats,
32
00:01:42,685 --> 00:01:45,647
we went to clubs
that weren't the most glamorous,
33
00:01:45,730 --> 00:01:47,732
you know, and that was our life.
34
00:01:48,608 --> 00:01:50,819
It was music, it was the art scene.
35
00:01:52,028 --> 00:01:53,780
We just wanted to change the world,
36
00:01:54,531 --> 00:01:56,616
-show the world something new.
-[♪ music concludes]
37
00:02:04,040 --> 00:02:06,126
[Glen Luchford]
When i-D magazine came out,
38
00:02:06,209 --> 00:02:08,211
it felt like the first fashion magazine
39
00:02:08,294 --> 00:02:10,505
that really represented the street.
40
00:02:14,717 --> 00:02:17,011
By the 1990s, I was at i-D,
41
00:02:17,720 --> 00:02:19,514
the youngest fashion director in history.
42
00:02:20,098 --> 00:02:21,850
A bit of fun at i-D.
43
00:02:21,933 --> 00:02:24,561
[Enninful] We were on the edge,
we were the cool kids,
44
00:02:24,644 --> 00:02:26,396
we were against the system.
45
00:02:28,439 --> 00:02:30,859
[man] So, tell me,
what's the best thing about i-D?
46
00:02:30,942 --> 00:02:36,698
We just present an alternative.
We present different ways to view clothes.
47
00:02:37,365 --> 00:02:40,994
It was a magazine by young people
for young people
48
00:02:41,077 --> 00:02:43,371
and just really giving youth a voice.
49
00:02:44,581 --> 00:02:48,126
You know, we put together things
that had soul, that had meaning,
50
00:02:48,209 --> 00:02:52,714
that felt personal to us,
and we would create a shoot that way.
51
00:02:54,799 --> 00:02:56,801
It was a truly independent magazine.
52
00:02:58,094 --> 00:03:00,138
[Enninful] The word "commercial"
was the dirtiest word.
53
00:03:00,763 --> 00:03:02,599
It's like, "We don't
do commercial pictures,
54
00:03:02,682 --> 00:03:04,058
"we don't do commercial clothes."
55
00:03:04,934 --> 00:03:09,898
So, everything was anti-establishment,
anti-fashion, so we called it grunge.
56
00:03:13,401 --> 00:03:15,445
Grunge was really just a state of mind.
57
00:03:16,571 --> 00:03:18,740
Being fashionable used to mean
looking good.
58
00:03:18,823 --> 00:03:22,118
Well, thanks to a fad
that started in the Pacific Northwest,
59
00:03:22,202 --> 00:03:24,996
high fashion now means, well, you decide.
60
00:03:25,079 --> 00:03:27,707
Anything that wasn't glamorous
and elegant was grungy.
61
00:03:29,709 --> 00:03:33,463
When the music wasn't like pop music
but really dark,
62
00:03:33,546 --> 00:03:35,381
it became "grungy music", right?
63
00:03:35,465 --> 00:03:40,678
If the fashion wasn't the big shoulders
and big hair, it became "grungy fashion".
64
00:03:41,638 --> 00:03:42,805
[male reporter] The grunge look
65
00:03:42,889 --> 00:03:46,059
is an urban lumberjack,
anything goes ensemble
66
00:03:46,142 --> 00:03:49,395
of duck boots,
tattered shirts, and long underwear.
67
00:03:50,605 --> 00:03:54,192
The whole rebellious,
rejecting luxury and like...
68
00:03:54,275 --> 00:03:55,526
Where everything was going
69
00:03:56,194 --> 00:03:57,904
and just having
an allergic reaction to it.
70
00:03:58,821 --> 00:04:00,990
I mean, it was just so raw and so real.
71
00:04:01,741 --> 00:04:04,619
We heard of this incredible
husband and wife duo,
72
00:04:04,702 --> 00:04:06,329
Kurt Cobain and Courtney.
73
00:04:07,622 --> 00:04:09,749
And we were obsessed
with Courtney's style,
74
00:04:10,375 --> 00:04:13,544
the little princess
with the tiara and the socks.
75
00:04:13,628 --> 00:04:14,879
It was so grunge.
76
00:04:16,297 --> 00:04:18,383
[Kim Kardashian] All we wanted to do
on the weekends
77
00:04:18,466 --> 00:04:21,511
is do these like mock-up
little photoshoots in our garages.
78
00:04:21,594 --> 00:04:25,265
Messy hair and baggy pants
79
00:04:25,348 --> 00:04:28,977
and we definitely
had, like, this attitude, for sure.
80
00:04:29,060 --> 00:04:30,728
All of our parents were like,
81
00:04:30,812 --> 00:04:32,939
"What are you guys doing?"
Like, you know, "Dress...
82
00:04:33,022 --> 00:04:34,023
"You gotta dress up."
83
00:04:34,107 --> 00:04:36,401
But for us Gen Xers,
84
00:04:36,484 --> 00:04:40,196
it was a way to put a stamp
on who we were as a generation.
85
00:04:41,322 --> 00:04:44,117
People couldn't ignore the fact
that there was a shift.
86
00:04:45,994 --> 00:04:48,538
There was really something happening,
87
00:04:49,122 --> 00:04:53,459
and no force on Earth can stop an idea
whose time has come.
88
00:04:55,753 --> 00:04:58,172
Grunge. Mmm.
89
00:04:58,256 --> 00:04:59,382
Yes.
90
00:04:59,966 --> 00:05:03,469
No, Anna was not the biggest,
biggest fan of grunge, I wouldn't say.
91
00:05:05,138 --> 00:05:07,932
[chuckles] She just...
It wasn't her thing.
92
00:05:08,016 --> 00:05:12,645
Anna was appalled, frankly, by grunge.
93
00:05:12,729 --> 00:05:14,772
[in French accent] So suddenly
you need the big boots,
94
00:05:14,856 --> 00:05:19,110
big looks of poverty, no look,
this thing clack, clack.
95
00:05:19,193 --> 00:05:24,407
I don't like the idea to look poor
when you are not poor. I hate this.
96
00:05:26,034 --> 00:05:29,579
Grunge was not joyful
and it was not uplifting
97
00:05:29,662 --> 00:05:31,831
and it was not covetable.
98
00:05:31,914 --> 00:05:33,833
You didn't really wanna
be in that picture.
99
00:05:34,917 --> 00:05:37,670
[Grace Coddington] For me,
personally, I love grunge.
100
00:05:39,047 --> 00:05:42,717
One felt there was a change in the air,
101
00:05:42,800 --> 00:05:45,136
and I sort of got hooked.
102
00:05:46,512 --> 00:05:48,639
Yeah, so did you have a story in mind?
103
00:05:48,723 --> 00:05:49,807
-I'll find one.
-Okay.
104
00:05:49,891 --> 00:05:51,517
Absolutely, I'll find one.
105
00:05:51,601 --> 00:05:55,355
So, yes, I took the jump, and I said,
106
00:05:55,438 --> 00:05:57,732
"We have to do this grunge story."
107
00:05:58,608 --> 00:06:01,194
But Anna wasn't really going for that,
you know.
108
00:06:02,612 --> 00:06:06,783
Grace and Anna, it was love-hate.
109
00:06:07,241 --> 00:06:10,119
Um, row is a bit heavy.
110
00:06:11,120 --> 00:06:15,583
But row, yes, I should say so.
[chuckles]
111
00:06:16,376 --> 00:06:21,506
Can you get me a car
to go to, um, Rick at 12:30?
112
00:06:22,465 --> 00:06:25,093
[Kristen McMenamy] Grace,
a little powerhouse,
113
00:06:25,885 --> 00:06:27,512
she breaks the rules
114
00:06:27,595 --> 00:06:30,139
but she's like a naughty little kid
breaking the rules,
115
00:06:30,223 --> 00:06:32,058
like, "I hope I get away with it."
116
00:06:33,976 --> 00:06:36,813
I think I've told Anna about it,
but only half.
117
00:06:36,896 --> 00:06:38,356
-I like the stripe.
-Yeah...
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00:06:38,439 --> 00:06:40,650
I don't think the word "grunge"
ever came out.
119
00:06:42,110 --> 00:06:45,446
I say something I want to do,
she says no,
120
00:06:46,364 --> 00:06:51,202
and then I bring it round the other way,
and come from this direction.
121
00:06:51,828 --> 00:06:54,288
She says no, so I come from this direction
122
00:06:54,372 --> 00:06:58,042
and that direction and eventually,
I kind of wear her down.
123
00:06:59,001 --> 00:07:00,253
So, yes, I'm stubborn.
124
00:07:01,337 --> 00:07:02,463
We hated grunge.
125
00:07:04,590 --> 00:07:07,427
But the new generation
of designers loved it
126
00:07:07,510 --> 00:07:09,053
and Vogue had to reflect that.
127
00:07:10,012 --> 00:07:12,640
I love Marc.
He have something that I love.
128
00:07:14,475 --> 00:07:17,019
[Jacobs] When we did
the grunge collection, I was like,
129
00:07:17,103 --> 00:07:19,105
"I hope the audience likes it."
130
00:07:21,149 --> 00:07:23,484
But I didn't care. [chuckles]
131
00:07:24,569 --> 00:07:28,573
[Tonne Goodman] Marc Jacobs had just
taken the reins at Perry Ellis,
132
00:07:28,656 --> 00:07:33,327
which was this very preppy, classic,
Upper East Side brand.
133
00:07:33,411 --> 00:07:37,498
It was for, you know, the New Yorker
who dressed well,
134
00:07:38,166 --> 00:07:40,293
quite restrained, quite traditional.
135
00:07:41,043 --> 00:07:44,338
[chuckles] And he was determined
to shake things up.
136
00:07:45,840 --> 00:07:47,675
[Jacobs] I was gonna be
the youngest person ever
137
00:07:47,758 --> 00:07:49,927
to run a huge house on 7th Avenue.
138
00:07:50,595 --> 00:07:52,430
But I had made a decision
139
00:07:52,513 --> 00:07:57,018
that I was going to make and create and do
140
00:07:57,560 --> 00:07:59,479
based on what inspires me.
141
00:07:59,562 --> 00:08:00,730
[reporter] ...now that we have
142
00:08:00,813 --> 00:08:02,732
-a light on you.
-I think they look gorgeous, huh?
143
00:08:04,317 --> 00:08:08,070
I had crazy energy.
144
00:08:08,154 --> 00:08:10,031
I mean, we couldn't do enough.
145
00:08:12,909 --> 00:08:14,952
My agent was like,
"You've gotta do this show."
146
00:08:15,036 --> 00:08:17,580
You know, it was all kind of like
pinning things together
147
00:08:17,663 --> 00:08:19,582
at the last minute. It was so exciting.
148
00:08:20,416 --> 00:08:21,959
[McMenamy] It was a high risk show,
149
00:08:22,585 --> 00:08:26,214
and I remember just, like,
chatting with Naomi
150
00:08:26,756 --> 00:08:29,842
about the looks, and being like,
151
00:08:31,427 --> 00:08:33,221
"What? What's he doing?"
152
00:08:38,684 --> 00:08:42,980
I was at that show and I remember
being completely stunned.
153
00:08:44,690 --> 00:08:47,902
The whole world was like,
[gasps] "What the hell is this?"
154
00:08:50,947 --> 00:08:54,242
Carlyne Cerf from Vogue was helping me
and she was like...
155
00:08:54,325 --> 00:08:56,369
[mimics French accent]
"I hate grunge, I hate grunge."
156
00:08:56,452 --> 00:08:58,496
I hate grunge!
157
00:08:59,372 --> 00:09:00,915
[in normal accent] But she wouldn't leave.
158
00:09:00,998 --> 00:09:04,418
Carla Bruni, she was in this dress,
and it just didn't seem right.
159
00:09:04,502 --> 00:09:07,797
I was like, "Well, we'll just cut it,"
and Carlyne loved the idea.
160
00:09:07,880 --> 00:09:09,382
She went, "Cut the dress," and,
161
00:09:09,465 --> 00:09:11,592
I just took her scissors
and roughly chopped it.
162
00:09:13,886 --> 00:09:16,556
Barely covering her bum. [chuckles]
163
00:09:21,727 --> 00:09:24,939
When you really looked at the collection,
it was very, very sophisticated.
164
00:09:25,898 --> 00:09:31,195
They were very beautifully orchestrated
patterns on patterns on patterns
165
00:09:31,279 --> 00:09:33,406
and the palette was very kind
of washed out.
166
00:09:34,448 --> 00:09:37,451
[Jacobs] We were layering the clothes
with a flannel shirt...
167
00:09:38,869 --> 00:09:40,371
with a knit beanie,
168
00:09:40,454 --> 00:09:44,333
and the girls just coming out in, like,
Doc Martens or Converse.
169
00:09:45,876 --> 00:09:49,505
It was like complete confidence
that this was good,
170
00:09:49,589 --> 00:09:53,175
and it was right,
and it was exciting, complete.
171
00:09:55,094 --> 00:09:58,389
I was part of the grunge thing,
that's how we dressed.
172
00:09:59,223 --> 00:10:01,684
So the fashion
wasn't shocking to me at all,
173
00:10:02,685 --> 00:10:05,563
but it was to everyone else.
174
00:10:07,523 --> 00:10:11,027
After the show, it was like,
"Jesus, what has happened?"
175
00:10:13,571 --> 00:10:16,532
[Bowles] That collection made Marc
an overnight star.
176
00:10:17,992 --> 00:10:19,869
But a star without a job.
177
00:10:21,078 --> 00:10:22,163
That was it.
178
00:10:24,332 --> 00:10:26,751
When people say,
"You were fired from Perry Ellis
179
00:10:26,834 --> 00:10:31,130
"because of the grunge show,"
like, it just made me, like, this rebel.
180
00:10:32,673 --> 00:10:36,886
There was really something happening
and, like, nobody could ignore it.
181
00:10:40,222 --> 00:10:43,476
[Bowles] Back at Vogue,
Grace, God love her,
182
00:10:43,559 --> 00:10:45,186
pushed for a grunge shoot.
183
00:10:46,312 --> 00:10:49,023
And Anna let Grace do her thing.
184
00:10:52,818 --> 00:10:57,531
Yeah, we went off to the country
and, you know, we had a great day.
185
00:11:00,826 --> 00:11:05,081
I was working a lot
with the great Steven Meisel at that time,
186
00:11:05,164 --> 00:11:07,541
who was an extraordinary photographer.
187
00:11:08,959 --> 00:11:12,505
I had McMenamy who I was crazy about.
188
00:11:13,756 --> 00:11:15,966
And then Naomi,
189
00:11:16,676 --> 00:11:19,345
they were loving it,
we were having such a great time.
190
00:11:22,848 --> 00:11:24,725
[Campbell] I never asked,
"What are we shooting?"
191
00:11:24,809 --> 00:11:26,018
I've never asked that.
192
00:11:26,102 --> 00:11:29,355
When I got there and I saw what it was,
I was so excited.
193
00:11:32,650 --> 00:11:37,071
I remember Grace putting on
a big flowery Ralph Lauren dress,
194
00:11:38,030 --> 00:11:42,576
and then she put a flannel shirt
over top or something,
195
00:11:42,660 --> 00:11:45,162
and then, like, boots and she said,
196
00:11:46,038 --> 00:11:47,415
"Ralph Lauren's gonna kill me."
197
00:11:48,082 --> 00:11:49,667
But she did it anyway!
198
00:11:51,752 --> 00:11:54,505
[Coddington] It was grunge
and it was taken from grunge
199
00:11:55,172 --> 00:11:57,508
but it was still quite chic.
200
00:11:59,927 --> 00:12:03,305
[Anna Wintour] When Grace is on a mission,
she is on a mission.
201
00:12:03,389 --> 00:12:07,601
I mean, that was part of why
I felt so lucky to have her at Vogue
202
00:12:07,685 --> 00:12:10,354
because she did have an eye
that I don't pretend to have.
203
00:12:10,438 --> 00:12:13,858
And she saw things
that many of us didn't see
204
00:12:13,941 --> 00:12:15,985
and she saw them first.
205
00:12:16,777 --> 00:12:20,281
[Coddington] To suddenly be presented
with this look
206
00:12:20,364 --> 00:12:22,658
must've been quite shocking for her,
207
00:12:22,742 --> 00:12:25,119
but she trusts her team.
208
00:12:25,202 --> 00:12:29,540
So if they bring it to her
with enough conviction,
209
00:12:31,041 --> 00:12:32,251
she will print it.
210
00:12:36,672 --> 00:12:40,634
I pulled out Vogue
and started looking through it,
211
00:12:40,718 --> 00:12:45,222
and I just was mesmerised
by these images.
212
00:12:47,057 --> 00:12:51,604
We saw how they were kinda picking up
on this pop cultural change with grunge.
213
00:12:53,606 --> 00:12:57,568
I think that when you have Steven Meisel
presenting grunge,
214
00:12:57,651 --> 00:13:01,447
you're presenting it
in a very, very sophisticated way.
215
00:13:02,782 --> 00:13:04,617
[Enninful] One of my favourite
fashion stories ever,
216
00:13:04,700 --> 00:13:09,163
you had all the hallmarks of grunge,
the plaid,
217
00:13:09,246 --> 00:13:13,000
the woolly hats, the striped sweaters,
218
00:13:13,083 --> 00:13:16,170
but you had supermodels modelling
and I'd never seen that before.
219
00:13:16,253 --> 00:13:18,380
It showed that, "Oh, my God,
220
00:13:18,464 --> 00:13:22,218
"what had been happening in London
had now gone mainstream."
221
00:13:26,931 --> 00:13:31,268
I thought if Vogue can do grunge,
why can't i-D magazine do supermodels?
222
00:13:32,228 --> 00:13:33,896
"Oh, my God, let's do a Naomi cover."
223
00:13:35,397 --> 00:13:39,568
We met, instantly we bonded,
it was like Naomi's my kindred spirit.
224
00:13:39,652 --> 00:13:44,782
She had curly hair
and I thought, "Oh, my God, how perfect."
225
00:13:46,075 --> 00:13:50,329
I was in my Whitney Houston phase
and I wanted that bodyguard haircut.
226
00:13:51,121 --> 00:13:52,706
[Enninful] Even though
we were the same age,
227
00:13:52,790 --> 00:13:55,209
she was a supermodel
and she was the one with the money,
228
00:13:55,292 --> 00:13:59,088
so she would have to buy the food,
sometimes we'd make her pay for the van.
229
00:14:00,548 --> 00:14:03,759
There was no budget, so we would shoot
after nine o'clock at night.
230
00:14:03,843 --> 00:14:07,638
I think I had to do my own makeup,
sleep at a friend's place.
231
00:14:07,721 --> 00:14:10,724
But we did it because it was Edward.
232
00:14:14,562 --> 00:14:16,689
[Enninful] That cover
really was very important
233
00:14:16,772 --> 00:14:18,691
because she was a superstar.
234
00:14:20,693 --> 00:14:22,361
Then we tried Helena Christensen.
235
00:14:23,696 --> 00:14:25,906
Then we tried Christy Turlington.
236
00:14:25,990 --> 00:14:27,741
The readers loved it.
237
00:14:27,825 --> 00:14:28,826
We got so many letters,
238
00:14:28,909 --> 00:14:31,537
this is back in the day,
where you got letters from readers
239
00:14:31,620 --> 00:14:32,872
and I thought, "Okay."
240
00:14:33,414 --> 00:14:35,541
[Linda Evangelista] Doing the i-D,
I felt so cool,
241
00:14:36,083 --> 00:14:37,501
I was like, "Oh, my God."
242
00:14:37,585 --> 00:14:39,837
I'm like... I felt, like, relevant.
243
00:14:40,796 --> 00:14:43,048
[Valletta] We got to have fun
and experiment,
244
00:14:43,132 --> 00:14:45,926
and you get to do things
that you don't normally get to do.
245
00:14:47,303 --> 00:14:50,347
All these models knew that, for longevity,
246
00:14:50,431 --> 00:14:53,309
and for cool,
they had to work for i-D.
247
00:14:53,392 --> 00:14:55,144
[man] Any other hassles
on cover shoots?
248
00:14:56,145 --> 00:14:58,480
I think the worst hassle's
when the girl can't wink.
249
00:14:59,106 --> 00:15:03,611
The i-D winking, yeah, of course,
who can forget that?
250
00:15:06,614 --> 00:15:08,824
I don't know who came up
with that idea for the wink,
251
00:15:08,908 --> 00:15:12,912
but it's cursed us all forever
because most people can't wink.
252
00:15:12,995 --> 00:15:14,288
Kate Moss can't wink.
253
00:15:15,164 --> 00:15:20,002
If you look at all Kate's covers...
So many of the models couldn't wink.
254
00:15:20,085 --> 00:15:21,086
I can't.
255
00:15:21,170 --> 00:15:22,171
[laughs]
256
00:15:22,254 --> 00:15:24,840
Literally, it's one of my like,
257
00:15:24,924 --> 00:15:28,427
my whole face, I can't do it,
I cannot do a glamorous wink.
258
00:15:28,510 --> 00:15:30,721
So I did a few like this.
259
00:15:31,847 --> 00:15:35,225
It was always like, "No, an i-D cover,"
but, of course, historically,
260
00:15:35,309 --> 00:15:39,355
I'd always thought they were the coolest,
so yeah, I loved doing them.
261
00:15:39,438 --> 00:15:41,273
[camera shutter clicking]
262
00:15:41,357 --> 00:15:44,276
Look straight.
Yeah, yeah and then try to wink.
263
00:15:45,361 --> 00:15:47,780
[Kasterine] I really loved working at i-D
because, of course,
264
00:15:47,863 --> 00:15:51,951
that gave us a platform to create shoots
that were really personal
265
00:15:52,034 --> 00:15:55,496
and, you know,
that felt very new at the time.
266
00:15:57,957 --> 00:16:00,793
But then I got a call
from someone at Vogue
267
00:16:00,876 --> 00:16:05,422
and she said, "We need a lingerie story,
would you be interested in doing it?"
268
00:16:07,216 --> 00:16:13,263
Now, a normal lingerie shoot
that would appear in Vogue in 1993
269
00:16:13,347 --> 00:16:15,849
would be more often than not
270
00:16:15,933 --> 00:16:19,937
shot on someone like Claudia
in a very expensive location,
271
00:16:20,020 --> 00:16:23,691
wandering down a beach,
looking really suntanned and gorgeous.
272
00:16:24,692 --> 00:16:26,360
I thought this maybe could be a moment
273
00:16:26,443 --> 00:16:29,530
where I could do something
completely different to that.
274
00:16:29,613 --> 00:16:31,865
So I said, "I'd love to do that,
275
00:16:31,949 --> 00:16:34,326
"but could I shoot with this photographer,
Corinne Day?"
276
00:16:34,410 --> 00:16:36,328
Strangely, they said yes.
277
00:16:36,412 --> 00:16:40,082
They didn't know what they were getting,
and I said, "Can we work with Kate Moss?"
278
00:16:42,751 --> 00:16:44,545
[Moss] I just felt really good,
279
00:16:44,628 --> 00:16:48,882
the whole shoot, I felt really comfortable
and it was in my flat in London.
280
00:16:50,175 --> 00:16:51,885
You know, it wasn't glamorous.
281
00:16:52,720 --> 00:16:54,596
Our bedroom was,
like, a bedsit. [chuckles]
282
00:16:56,181 --> 00:16:58,434
That's the kind of fashion I liked.
283
00:16:59,226 --> 00:17:00,978
It was much simpler.
284
00:17:03,647 --> 00:17:06,191
I loved creating the images with them.
285
00:17:07,484 --> 00:17:09,903
[Kasterine] She's sort of, you know,
jumping around her bedroom
286
00:17:09,987 --> 00:17:13,782
and she's got her neon pink pants on,
287
00:17:13,866 --> 00:17:16,618
her hair's just loosely in a ponytail,
288
00:17:16,702 --> 00:17:18,245
and she hasn't got much makeup on.
289
00:17:19,288 --> 00:17:20,956
But it's actually just very normal.
290
00:17:21,915 --> 00:17:23,876
She's just a teenage girl in her bedroom.
291
00:17:26,795 --> 00:17:31,216
I think Vogue
had the foresight to understand
292
00:17:31,300 --> 00:17:34,428
that this was an important shoot
to publish,
293
00:17:34,511 --> 00:17:38,348
because it was something special
and new and different.
294
00:17:39,558 --> 00:17:44,188
I mean, obviously Vogue wanted it
but the public were not ready.
295
00:17:48,817 --> 00:17:52,946
[Kasterine] Immediately
they were completely vilified
296
00:17:53,030 --> 00:17:54,323
and slammed in the press,
297
00:17:55,449 --> 00:17:59,953
and they were absolutely appalled,
is the word I think I'll use.
298
00:18:00,037 --> 00:18:01,538
[laughs]
299
00:18:03,582 --> 00:18:06,835
Perhaps we'd underestimated
how that look
300
00:18:06,919 --> 00:18:10,255
that we had been shooting
for magazines like i-D,
301
00:18:10,339 --> 00:18:13,175
that had, in our minds, been quite normal,
302
00:18:13,258 --> 00:18:15,928
but if you transfer that
into the context of Vogue,
303
00:18:16,011 --> 00:18:19,598
then it becomes something very different.
304
00:18:20,516 --> 00:18:24,561
That look,
very undernourished-looking model...
305
00:18:26,021 --> 00:18:27,856
made people uncomfortable.
306
00:18:27,940 --> 00:18:31,068
I detest it, I really do.
307
00:18:31,151 --> 00:18:37,449
I... I think that it's an unhealthy thing
to promote, that look,
308
00:18:38,492 --> 00:18:40,702
and I don't see any reason for it.
309
00:18:43,122 --> 00:18:45,999
[Goodman] My initial reaction
to the shoot with Kate,
310
00:18:46,083 --> 00:18:48,794
those images certainly
did not look healthy,
311
00:18:49,503 --> 00:18:51,630
they certainly did not look well-fed
312
00:18:51,713 --> 00:18:53,382
and this is gonna become a trend?
313
00:18:53,465 --> 00:18:54,508
This is gonna be something
314
00:18:54,591 --> 00:18:57,970
that, you know,
we're gonna embrace and endorse?
315
00:18:59,304 --> 00:19:01,890
[Moss] I think
because I was just skinny
316
00:19:01,974 --> 00:19:04,309
and people weren't used to seeing skinny.
317
00:19:04,393 --> 00:19:09,815
But if I'd been more buxom,
it wouldn't have been such a big deal.
318
00:19:09,898 --> 00:19:14,403
You know, it's just my body shape
was different from the models before me.
319
00:19:15,362 --> 00:19:19,199
[Enninful] The whole thing just blew up
and that piece in Vogue
320
00:19:19,283 --> 00:19:22,161
really triggered
a huge amount of hysteria,
321
00:19:22,828 --> 00:19:24,872
what became known as heroin chic.
322
00:19:26,373 --> 00:19:30,043
[Kasterine] The label "heroin chic"
was just sort of appalling to us.
323
00:19:30,127 --> 00:19:34,756
But if you look at the broader picture
of what was happening in music and film,
324
00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:38,427
you've got films like Trainspotting,
which, of course,
325
00:19:38,510 --> 00:19:43,223
was dealing with the horrific
subject matter of kids addicted to heroin.
326
00:19:43,307 --> 00:19:46,560
We all know
what Courtney and Kurt were up to,
327
00:19:46,643 --> 00:19:51,732
but you'd never get away with labelling
somebody or someone's work like that now,
328
00:19:51,815 --> 00:19:53,483
you know, it's slanderous in some ways.
329
00:19:54,902 --> 00:19:58,780
They were saying, "It's Kate Moss's fault,
it's Kate Moss, you know, she's,
330
00:19:58,864 --> 00:20:01,491
"you know, glamourising heroin chic."
331
00:20:01,575 --> 00:20:05,120
People's parents would come up to me
and say, "My daughter's anorexic."
332
00:20:05,204 --> 00:20:07,539
You know, it was awful.
333
00:20:08,665 --> 00:20:11,752
There was one time
that my mum called me and said,
334
00:20:11,835 --> 00:20:15,881
"Darling, I've just read that
you're a heroin addict, is that true?"
335
00:20:16,840 --> 00:20:22,679
Many of us at Vogue
worried about "heroin chic" or anorexia,
336
00:20:22,763 --> 00:20:27,351
all the things that are associated
with that look
337
00:20:27,434 --> 00:20:32,648
and it rocked, not only the industry,
but it got to such a fever pitch,
338
00:20:32,731 --> 00:20:35,484
and I remember physically
being in the White House
339
00:20:35,567 --> 00:20:37,986
when the Clinton administration
took it on.
340
00:20:38,070 --> 00:20:41,573
We now see in college campuses
and neighbourhoods
341
00:20:41,657 --> 00:20:44,159
heroin becoming increasingly
the drug of choice,
342
00:20:44,243 --> 00:20:47,037
and fashion leaders are now admitting
343
00:20:47,120 --> 00:20:51,041
that images projected in fashion photos
in the last few years
344
00:20:51,124 --> 00:20:54,461
have made heroin addiction
seem glamorous and sexy and cool.
345
00:20:55,087 --> 00:20:58,548
You do not need to glamourise addiction
to sell clothes.
346
00:21:02,886 --> 00:21:05,264
Heroin chic did a lot of damage
to London, you know,
347
00:21:05,347 --> 00:21:07,557
all of a sudden we were seen as careless,
348
00:21:07,641 --> 00:21:11,728
we were seen as radical,
but that wasn't the intention.
349
00:21:12,813 --> 00:21:16,942
The intention was young people
photographing other young people
350
00:21:17,025 --> 00:21:19,194
to show the world
what was happening in London.
351
00:21:19,278 --> 00:21:21,571
[Big Ben chiming]
352
00:21:28,996 --> 00:21:31,832
[♪ dancey rock music playing]
353
00:21:31,915 --> 00:21:34,209
[Enninful] There was such a great energy
in the city.
354
00:21:36,712 --> 00:21:39,631
There was so much happening,
so much bubbling under.
355
00:21:40,632 --> 00:21:44,177
You had all these incredible designers
coming out of Saint Martins.
356
00:21:45,304 --> 00:21:46,513
Lee McQueen.
357
00:21:47,723 --> 00:21:49,016
Hussein Chalayan.
358
00:21:49,766 --> 00:21:50,976
Stella McCartney.
359
00:21:51,935 --> 00:21:55,480
Then you had all these incredible artists
coming out of Goldsmiths.
360
00:21:56,565 --> 00:21:59,276
[McCartney] Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst,
361
00:21:59,359 --> 00:22:02,654
we were all just in the same room
at the same time.
362
00:22:03,905 --> 00:22:05,866
There was this freshness
363
00:22:05,949 --> 00:22:10,120
and recklessness
of breaking of boundaries.
364
00:22:11,204 --> 00:22:14,541
Musicians, the artists, the models,
the photographers,
365
00:22:14,624 --> 00:22:19,129
everyone would hang out together
and influence each other.
366
00:22:20,172 --> 00:22:22,716
We were, like, going to museums together,
367
00:22:22,799 --> 00:22:25,719
we were going to all the films,
we were going to all the gigs,
368
00:22:25,802 --> 00:22:29,139
Blur and Jarvis and, you know, Oasis.
369
00:22:29,222 --> 00:22:33,560
Like, we were all at the same things,
and we were going to all the clubs.
370
00:22:35,187 --> 00:22:39,191
I was going, of course,
to the sex clubs in London. [laughs]
371
00:22:39,274 --> 00:22:40,901
Also, "No sex we are British,"
372
00:22:40,984 --> 00:22:43,612
it's not true, it's not the reality,
you know?
373
00:22:44,196 --> 00:22:46,990
It was just buzzing,
it was like London was alive.
374
00:22:52,204 --> 00:22:53,538
Hi, I'm Hamish Bowles,
375
00:22:53,622 --> 00:22:56,249
I'm the European Editor
at Large for American Vogue.
376
00:22:56,333 --> 00:22:58,752
I hope you can hear me over the din.
Ahem.
377
00:22:58,835 --> 00:23:01,129
I'm in London for fashion week and I...
378
00:23:02,255 --> 00:23:06,009
I had young London thing to do for Vogue.
379
00:23:07,511 --> 00:23:09,513
Someone who had been saying
380
00:23:09,596 --> 00:23:11,807
"This young designer
called Alexander McQueen,
381
00:23:11,890 --> 00:23:13,558
"you've got to see him."
382
00:23:14,643 --> 00:23:19,272
So we went up to this derelict warehouse.
383
00:23:19,356 --> 00:23:22,442
-[people chattering indistinctly]
-[birds squawking]
384
00:23:22,526 --> 00:23:25,278
[Bowles] It was dark, enclosed room.
385
00:23:26,029 --> 00:23:28,240
There was the sound of birds.
386
00:23:29,866 --> 00:23:33,870
[bell ringing]
387
00:23:41,044 --> 00:23:43,046
[Goodman] Lee McQueen was a genius.
388
00:23:44,297 --> 00:23:46,633
I mean, he was an enormous,
enormous talent.
389
00:23:49,678 --> 00:23:51,680
First of all, he was a master tailor
390
00:23:53,056 --> 00:23:57,227
and then the fact that he really
birthed something in London
391
00:23:57,310 --> 00:23:58,895
that was absolutely unique.
392
00:24:00,188 --> 00:24:05,777
He was playing with the duality of London,
the wild and sophisticated.
393
00:24:07,612 --> 00:24:10,449
McQueen liked to provoke and to shock
394
00:24:10,532 --> 00:24:14,202
and to have people talking about him,
it was part of who he was.
395
00:24:14,870 --> 00:24:16,288
[woman] What do you think?
396
00:24:16,371 --> 00:24:18,123
Um... I thought it was...
397
00:24:19,332 --> 00:24:22,919
rather wonderful, I must say,
sort of exhilarating to watch.
398
00:24:23,003 --> 00:24:25,672
Middle America might not
be quite ready for this.
399
00:24:27,507 --> 00:24:31,136
By the time it ended, I was in shock.
400
00:24:31,219 --> 00:24:37,934
It was something incredible
that I hadn't seen before, actually ever.
401
00:24:40,437 --> 00:24:44,232
[Katy England] I think Lee
was very honest and very real
402
00:24:44,316 --> 00:24:48,487
and he didn't put on airs
and graces for people.
403
00:24:49,571 --> 00:24:51,072
[McQueen] Well, did it piss you off?
404
00:24:51,156 --> 00:24:54,117
-[journalist] No.
-It should've done, that was the idea.
405
00:24:54,201 --> 00:24:56,203
His vision was quite dark.
406
00:24:56,286 --> 00:24:58,497
[reporter] McQueen has always been known
as a rebel
407
00:24:58,580 --> 00:25:02,167
and he sent his models staggering
down the catwalk in torn clothes,
408
00:25:02,250 --> 00:25:04,794
looking like they'd just been violated.
409
00:25:04,878 --> 00:25:06,755
[Enninful] The journalists were outraged,
410
00:25:06,838 --> 00:25:09,508
but the kids were loving Lee McQueen,
you know,
411
00:25:09,591 --> 00:25:13,345
youth will always love something
they can relate to,
412
00:25:13,428 --> 00:25:18,183
something they see as anti-establishment
and Lee was that.
413
00:25:18,266 --> 00:25:22,521
Well, I've always been a bit of a rebel
with a cause. [chuckles]
414
00:25:22,604 --> 00:25:23,813
[man] Which was?
415
00:25:23,897 --> 00:25:27,442
Which is to destroy
the fashion industry at large.
416
00:25:27,526 --> 00:25:29,986
-[man] From within.
-From within, at the core.
417
00:25:31,112 --> 00:25:34,074
[Enninful] Everyone thinks of Lee McQueen
as this dark person,
418
00:25:35,784 --> 00:25:39,162
but I've never laughed with anyone
more than I did with him.
419
00:25:39,746 --> 00:25:43,750
[England] When I first met Lee,
he came up to me and he said,
420
00:25:43,833 --> 00:25:47,379
"Are you Katy England?
I'd like you to style my next show."
421
00:25:49,047 --> 00:25:54,803
I was young, and I was excited,
and it felt like just an instant fit.
422
00:25:55,387 --> 00:25:56,972
Camera up, please.
423
00:25:57,472 --> 00:25:59,641
[England] Lee was making the clothes
himself.
424
00:25:59,724 --> 00:26:01,935
We didn't have money for a fitting model.
425
00:26:02,644 --> 00:26:07,440
I would try on all the clothes
and Lee would make alterations on me.
426
00:26:07,524 --> 00:26:10,485
My first Santa's sleigh girl.
427
00:26:10,569 --> 00:26:13,321
[both laugh]
428
00:26:17,033 --> 00:26:20,912
When Lee left Saint Martins,
he didn't have any money at all.
429
00:26:21,871 --> 00:26:26,042
He was signing on for unemployment benefit
as Lee McQueen.
430
00:26:26,126 --> 00:26:29,129
He was very concerned
that people from the dole office
431
00:26:29,212 --> 00:26:31,089
would see him in the press
432
00:26:31,172 --> 00:26:34,926
and that he wouldn't
get his unemployment benefit,
433
00:26:35,010 --> 00:26:37,470
hence the name
he put on his first collection
434
00:26:37,554 --> 00:26:40,807
was Alexander McQueen, not Lee McQueen.
435
00:26:40,890 --> 00:26:43,143
[woman] Did they want you
to be a designer?
436
00:26:43,226 --> 00:26:45,770
No, my dad wanted me to be a plumber.
437
00:26:45,854 --> 00:26:48,231
But I got sort of mixed up
with the costume,
438
00:26:48,315 --> 00:26:52,569
you know, the all-in-one just turned me on
so much. [laughs]
439
00:26:52,652 --> 00:26:54,946
What I love about Lee
was his eye for tailoring,
440
00:26:55,030 --> 00:26:59,284
his eye for proportion, you know,
and he was always so knowledgeable,
441
00:26:59,367 --> 00:27:00,869
you know, of history,
442
00:27:00,952 --> 00:27:03,121
not just British history,
but world history.
443
00:27:03,204 --> 00:27:04,372
I knew he had the talent,
444
00:27:04,456 --> 00:27:05,749
I knew he could take an idea
445
00:27:05,832 --> 00:27:08,918
and really, sort of, transform it
into something magical.
446
00:27:10,211 --> 00:27:14,841
For me, the moment of the shift
was the Dante show.
447
00:27:14,924 --> 00:27:18,720
I felt really that was the moment
when people sort of took him seriously.
448
00:27:24,100 --> 00:27:26,311
It was chaos backstage.
449
00:27:26,394 --> 00:27:28,063
[people chattering indistinctly]
450
00:27:28,146 --> 00:27:30,732
[England] It was a really,
really chaotic show
451
00:27:30,815 --> 00:27:33,485
because the collection had arrived
so late.
452
00:27:33,568 --> 00:27:36,112
[people chattering indistinctly]
453
00:27:36,196 --> 00:27:39,199
And it wasn't like
he had an awfully big fan club
454
00:27:39,282 --> 00:27:41,201
of fashion journalists at that time.
455
00:27:41,284 --> 00:27:44,037
The people are coming
to see Alexander McQueen, for sure.
456
00:27:44,120 --> 00:27:47,082
Are they coming to laugh, to gawp,
to walk out of here going,
457
00:27:47,165 --> 00:27:49,668
"Would you wear that crap?"
"No, of course, I wouldn't."
458
00:27:49,751 --> 00:27:54,464
He thought it'd be a bit of fun
to put a skeleton on the front row.
459
00:27:57,175 --> 00:28:02,389
He was just doing a little dig at the way
the press had responded to him so far.
460
00:28:12,982 --> 00:28:15,485
[♪ chamber music playing]
461
00:28:16,069 --> 00:28:17,904
That was the first time I walked for Lee.
462
00:28:18,571 --> 00:28:20,281
It was a special show, that one.
463
00:28:22,742 --> 00:28:25,704
It was amazing, it was almost
a spiritual experience actually.
464
00:28:29,124 --> 00:28:34,087
[Wintour] Everything was a bit perverse
as well as quite, quite dark.
465
00:28:35,213 --> 00:28:38,800
I've always been drawn
to English designers
466
00:28:38,883 --> 00:28:45,265
because they're so incredible
at doing so much with so little.
467
00:28:45,348 --> 00:28:48,935
They seem to be able to pull things
out of a paper bag
468
00:28:49,018 --> 00:28:52,313
and they're not worried
about their investors, or their backers,
469
00:28:52,397 --> 00:28:53,398
they don't have any.
470
00:28:56,693 --> 00:28:58,737
[England] He had the antler horns.
471
00:29:00,405 --> 00:29:04,492
He had the masks,
little Jesus figure on the nose.
472
00:29:05,410 --> 00:29:10,540
It was just a really lovely balance
between something that felt polished,
473
00:29:10,623 --> 00:29:13,501
but it still had his raw energy.
474
00:29:15,879 --> 00:29:19,716
[Enninful] What Lee showed the world was
that London fashion could be rebellious,
475
00:29:19,799 --> 00:29:24,387
it could be exciting and wild,
but also sophisticated.
476
00:29:24,471 --> 00:29:25,722
The world took notice.
477
00:29:25,805 --> 00:29:29,058
Right at this moment in time,
Alexander McQueen is possibly
478
00:29:29,142 --> 00:29:32,812
the most exciting, outrageous talent
that British fashion has.
479
00:29:33,646 --> 00:29:35,565
In America, they'd heard about him
480
00:29:35,648 --> 00:29:38,610
and they wanted
to bring the show to New York.
481
00:29:40,111 --> 00:29:42,155
And it was just chaotic.
482
00:29:42,238 --> 00:29:43,406
[people chattering indistinctly]
483
00:29:43,490 --> 00:29:47,160
[woman] Oh, man! What a scene
at the Alexander McQueen show
484
00:29:47,243 --> 00:29:49,871
in front of an abandoned old synagogue.
485
00:29:49,954 --> 00:29:52,582
The show in London was in a church
that was still in use,
486
00:29:52,665 --> 00:29:56,503
but the synagogue is not in use any more,
so it's gonna be kind of crazy,
487
00:29:56,586 --> 00:29:58,463
a bit more madder than the London show.
488
00:29:58,546 --> 00:30:01,508
[woman laughing] Because he wants
to climb over the car!
489
00:30:01,591 --> 00:30:04,260
[England] So many people
wanted to come and see it.
490
00:30:05,470 --> 00:30:08,139
We hadn't quite expected that.
491
00:30:08,223 --> 00:30:10,266
[man] We are packed wall to wall!
492
00:30:10,350 --> 00:30:12,602
We have closed the place down now.
493
00:30:12,685 --> 00:30:14,938
It's dead. Have a nice night.
494
00:30:15,021 --> 00:30:17,565
The American production team
were panicking
495
00:30:17,649 --> 00:30:19,901
because they had never seen
anything like that before.
496
00:30:20,527 --> 00:30:22,445
It was actually quite scary.
497
00:30:24,739 --> 00:30:28,535
Rumour has it that there was a problem
getting Anna Wintour through the door.
498
00:30:28,618 --> 00:30:32,497
There are a lot of angry people out there
who we couldn't get into your show.
499
00:30:32,580 --> 00:30:34,249
So what do you say to that?
500
00:30:35,208 --> 00:30:37,627
-Sorry!
-[both laugh]
501
00:30:38,378 --> 00:30:41,214
And I said to him,
"Lee, Anna Wintour's outside the door
502
00:30:41,297 --> 00:30:44,551
"with André Leon Talley and
Grace Coddington and she can't get in."
503
00:30:45,635 --> 00:30:49,097
And he was like, "Oh, fuck 'em."
He... He didn't care. [laughs]
504
00:30:49,180 --> 00:30:52,016
I was like, "Oh, my God,
what are you doing?"
505
00:30:52,100 --> 00:30:55,854
It's like, nobody would do that but Lee.
506
00:30:55,937 --> 00:30:58,940
[McQueen] When I'm paying £30,000
to do a show,
507
00:30:59,023 --> 00:31:00,650
I will do whatever I like.
508
00:31:01,776 --> 00:31:06,072
Because it's my £30,000
and my half hour to do anything I like.
509
00:31:06,155 --> 00:31:08,491
The synagogue was very difficult
to get into,
510
00:31:08,575 --> 00:31:12,787
but I did get in, and yes,
he rocked the boat,
511
00:31:12,871 --> 00:31:16,875
but I think that sense
of slightly annoying people,
512
00:31:17,959 --> 00:31:20,336
he was into that.
513
00:31:22,297 --> 00:31:25,216
He was incredible, Lee,
he was such a laugh,
514
00:31:25,300 --> 00:31:27,302
he was so cheeky, he was so talented.
515
00:31:27,385 --> 00:31:31,180
I went to some of his shows
and it definitely cemented the fact
516
00:31:31,264 --> 00:31:35,143
that I want to be a fashion designer,
and so I started looking at, um, colleges
517
00:31:35,226 --> 00:31:38,980
to study fashion design
and there was only one.
518
00:31:39,063 --> 00:31:41,399
This week we're coming to you
from Central Saint Martins
519
00:31:41,482 --> 00:31:44,944
in Charing Cross Road,
one of London's leading fashion colleges.
520
00:31:47,113 --> 00:31:48,865
Everyone had gone to Saint Martins.
521
00:31:48,948 --> 00:31:50,867
Galliano had gone there, Lee was there.
522
00:31:51,868 --> 00:31:54,621
I mean, I really wanted to get
into Saint Martins,
523
00:31:55,496 --> 00:31:57,248
but I didn't love it when I got there.
524
00:31:59,834 --> 00:32:05,465
Because the weirder and more wild
and crazy your creations were,
525
00:32:05,840 --> 00:32:08,801
the better you were at being a designer.
526
00:32:10,053 --> 00:32:13,890
If you did anything
that was remotely kind of normal,
527
00:32:14,682 --> 00:32:16,476
you were like the biggest loser
in the world.
528
00:32:16,559 --> 00:32:21,439
So I'd spent two and a half years
creating dresses out of spaghetti
529
00:32:21,522 --> 00:32:23,358
and like, I mean, none of it was wearable.
530
00:32:25,068 --> 00:32:27,111
And so when it came to my degree show,
I was like,
531
00:32:27,195 --> 00:32:30,365
"Oh. Am I brave enough
to do what I wanna do?
532
00:32:30,448 --> 00:32:31,950
"Like, have I actually got the balls
533
00:32:32,033 --> 00:32:35,036
"to do something
that's really quite normal?"
534
00:32:35,119 --> 00:32:36,996
[people chattering indistinctly]
535
00:32:37,538 --> 00:32:40,249
[McCartney] I was obsessed
with antique fabric and antique lace,
536
00:32:40,333 --> 00:32:41,918
basically vintage clothing.
537
00:32:42,502 --> 00:32:46,089
And so I was like,
"I wanna make those kind of clothes,
538
00:32:46,172 --> 00:32:48,424
"but I wanna be able to wear them,
modernise them."
539
00:32:48,508 --> 00:32:51,010
[announcer] Stella McCartney
fashion designs.
540
00:32:51,844 --> 00:32:53,846
[♪ techno music playing]
541
00:32:55,848 --> 00:32:58,726
We used to go to the graduate shows,
we were all very excited.
542
00:32:58,810 --> 00:33:00,895
There was a lot of hype
around Stella McCartney.
543
00:33:04,857 --> 00:33:07,944
And Stella presented a collection
that was quite classic,
544
00:33:08,027 --> 00:33:11,990
very female friendly
and featured Naomi and Kate.
545
00:33:15,076 --> 00:33:17,328
[McCartney] All the other students
were choosing their models,
546
00:33:17,412 --> 00:33:19,038
then they were getting their mates.
547
00:33:19,122 --> 00:33:21,582
I had mates,
but my mates were the supermodels.
548
00:33:22,542 --> 00:33:24,752
I was like,
"Everyone's gonna hate me if I do that."
549
00:33:24,836 --> 00:33:27,255
And I just thought,
"You know what? Sod it."
550
00:33:27,338 --> 00:33:31,592
Like, just like, "Life's too short
and you're genuinely my mates."
551
00:33:31,676 --> 00:33:33,261
[woman] Naomi, why are you here?
552
00:33:33,344 --> 00:33:37,598
I'm here to support Stella McCartney
in her graduation.
553
00:33:37,682 --> 00:33:41,019
When she called me, she said,
"It's my graduation
554
00:33:41,686 --> 00:33:44,856
"and I really would love you girls
to be a part of it."
555
00:33:44,939 --> 00:33:48,568
So we flew to London to do the graduation,
556
00:33:48,651 --> 00:33:51,404
and I don't think anyone's
ever had a graduation like that.
557
00:33:51,487 --> 00:33:55,199
We were just hanging out
in, like, Notting Hill,
558
00:33:55,283 --> 00:33:58,578
going to the same bars or restaurants
or whatever
559
00:33:58,661 --> 00:34:02,248
and I didn't know she was a McCartney.
560
00:34:02,331 --> 00:34:07,003
And then I saw her driving around
in a Mercedes and I was like,
561
00:34:07,086 --> 00:34:09,589
"She's at college,
how can she afford that?"
562
00:34:09,672 --> 00:34:11,049
And then she told me,
563
00:34:11,132 --> 00:34:14,135
and then she asked me
to do her graduate show.
564
00:34:15,011 --> 00:34:16,262
Stella's a friend of mine so,
565
00:34:16,345 --> 00:34:18,473
and she was doing a show,
so she asked me to do it.
566
00:34:19,057 --> 00:34:21,517
Lots of important designers
have come out of Saint Martins
567
00:34:21,601 --> 00:34:26,022
and some huge designers in the future
will come out from this show.
568
00:34:26,105 --> 00:34:29,192
Those girls were the hottest girls
on the planet.
569
00:34:29,275 --> 00:34:32,695
They were doing every show in every city.
570
00:34:33,571 --> 00:34:37,241
And they did a little college,
you know, fashion show.
571
00:34:38,284 --> 00:34:41,245
That, for me, was like, it was amazing.
572
00:34:45,541 --> 00:34:48,628
[Campbell] I've never seen any graduate
from Saint Martins
573
00:34:48,711 --> 00:34:51,506
have their collection on the front cover
574
00:34:51,589 --> 00:34:53,549
of every single newspaper.
575
00:34:56,010 --> 00:34:58,930
[Enninful] A lot of students were like,
"We don't have Stella's background,
576
00:34:59,013 --> 00:35:00,890
"we don't have Stella's connections."
577
00:35:00,973 --> 00:35:03,810
So Stella, from the beginning,
even though that was great for her,
578
00:35:03,893 --> 00:35:06,312
also suffered a huge backlash
about privilege.
579
00:35:07,146 --> 00:35:10,983
As the child of such famous people,
you know, it became this whole drama.
580
00:35:11,067 --> 00:35:14,112
I was like, "Ahhh!
Get me out of here!" [laughs]
581
00:35:15,988 --> 00:35:18,032
There was a lot of hype
around Stella McCartney,
582
00:35:18,908 --> 00:35:22,745
but there was so much talent
in London at the time
583
00:35:22,829 --> 00:35:25,832
and British designers
were in demand everywhere.
584
00:35:32,046 --> 00:35:36,968
I was already installed in Paris
at Givenchy.
585
00:35:37,051 --> 00:35:42,140
And then I got the phone call
from the company president,
586
00:35:43,057 --> 00:35:46,269
which made me nervous
because it was a Friday afternoon
587
00:35:46,352 --> 00:35:49,230
and you don't normally get invited
to Mr Arnault's office
588
00:35:49,313 --> 00:35:50,815
on a Friday afternoon.
589
00:35:52,817 --> 00:35:54,986
I thought, well,
I tried my best at Givenchy,
590
00:35:55,069 --> 00:35:57,613
maybe it just didn't work out,
I'm not ready for it, whatever.
591
00:35:58,489 --> 00:36:01,033
But no, he then asked me if I would like
592
00:36:01,117 --> 00:36:03,870
to be the artistic director
at the house of Dior.
593
00:36:05,037 --> 00:36:07,206
[reporter] John Galliano
is bringing his talents
594
00:36:07,290 --> 00:36:08,374
to Christian Dior,
595
00:36:08,457 --> 00:36:11,961
an international standard setter
for style and elegance.
596
00:36:12,044 --> 00:36:14,589
I never dreamt of going to Dior,
that was very...
597
00:36:14,672 --> 00:36:16,799
No. No, no, no.
598
00:36:17,383 --> 00:36:19,093
It's the greatest house in the world
599
00:36:19,177 --> 00:36:22,388
and every fashion student
dreams of being a little part of it,
600
00:36:22,471 --> 00:36:25,850
but to be given the reins of the house
is just something
601
00:36:25,933 --> 00:36:28,644
that I would never believed would happen.
602
00:36:28,728 --> 00:36:30,855
It was an amazing moment for London.
603
00:36:30,938 --> 00:36:37,111
Our designers were being hand-picked
to head these storied French houses.
604
00:36:38,279 --> 00:36:40,448
[reporter] And it's not
a one-man revolution.
605
00:36:40,531 --> 00:36:42,992
Alexander McQueen,
who will take over from Galliano
606
00:36:43,075 --> 00:36:45,703
as Givenchy's top designer is British too.
607
00:36:47,121 --> 00:36:48,831
When Lee was offered the job at Givenchy,
608
00:36:49,957 --> 00:36:51,334
he was 27-years-old.
609
00:36:53,878 --> 00:36:56,380
Such an opportunity comes along
once in a lifetime.
610
00:37:01,677 --> 00:37:04,055
Lee really went for it.
611
00:37:04,931 --> 00:37:07,683
You know,
he didn't falter with that decision.
612
00:37:08,267 --> 00:37:11,103
Catapulted onto an international stage.
613
00:37:12,730 --> 00:37:15,399
[McQueen] I love working for Givenchy,
I mean, I love the ateliers.
614
00:37:15,483 --> 00:37:17,068
The people are really lovely.
615
00:37:17,151 --> 00:37:20,863
You know, it's hard work,
but life's hard work anyway.
616
00:37:20,947 --> 00:37:23,616
So, you know,
and if you're dedicated to work,
617
00:37:23,699 --> 00:37:25,076
it's never gonna be easy.
618
00:37:25,159 --> 00:37:26,619
[clapping]
619
00:37:28,246 --> 00:37:30,289
[Enninful]
He was a working-class designer,
620
00:37:31,290 --> 00:37:33,084
so was John Galliano who was before him.
621
00:37:33,167 --> 00:37:37,338
They were these working-class kids
in these ateliers of high society,
622
00:37:37,421 --> 00:37:39,757
British designers
who took the fashion system
623
00:37:39,840 --> 00:37:41,008
and turned it upside down.
624
00:37:44,845 --> 00:37:49,642
I was in my little studio apartment
in West London
625
00:37:49,725 --> 00:37:53,354
and people were starting to, like,
wanna buy my clothes.
626
00:37:53,437 --> 00:37:57,650
I was selling to a couple of stores
in Japan and in London
627
00:37:57,733 --> 00:38:00,736
and we were like just really busking it,
like we didn't know
628
00:38:00,820 --> 00:38:03,698
how to do business, and I was like,
"I don't know what I'm doing."
629
00:38:04,865 --> 00:38:06,075
Okay, definitely.
630
00:38:06,158 --> 00:38:09,954
And I remember just getting
the phone call
631
00:38:10,037 --> 00:38:11,831
of the CEO of Chloé.
632
00:38:11,914 --> 00:38:14,875
The only reason I knew about it
was my mum used to wear Chloé in the '70s.
633
00:38:14,959 --> 00:38:17,003
So when I was scouring through
her wardrobe,
634
00:38:17,086 --> 00:38:19,505
I'd see this brand, Chloé, I loved it.
It was beautiful.
635
00:38:20,840 --> 00:38:24,468
And they kind of asked me
if I would be interested in going
636
00:38:24,552 --> 00:38:26,470
and being the creative director
of the house,
637
00:38:27,388 --> 00:38:29,557
I was like, "What the hell
are you talking about?"
638
00:38:29,640 --> 00:38:31,183
[engine whirring]
639
00:38:31,267 --> 00:38:35,313
[McCartney] It was like a big job
and a lot of pressure.
640
00:38:36,063 --> 00:38:39,942
I was so overwhelmed,
but it was a done deal.
641
00:38:40,026 --> 00:38:41,277
I mean, that was it.
642
00:38:42,653 --> 00:38:45,114
[reporter] She's never staged
a major catwalk show,
643
00:38:45,197 --> 00:38:47,491
but her Chloé boss says
she was the right person
644
00:38:47,575 --> 00:38:49,368
to replace Karl Lagerfeld.
645
00:38:49,452 --> 00:38:51,996
[people chattering indistinctly]
646
00:38:52,079 --> 00:38:55,166
Stella taking on Karl Lagerfeld's role
at Chloé
647
00:38:55,249 --> 00:38:59,503
was almost like Little Red Riding Hood
taking on the Big Bad Wolf.
648
00:39:01,756 --> 00:39:05,134
I don't feel that you can really
tell the story of '90s fashion
649
00:39:05,217 --> 00:39:07,386
without telling the story
of Karl Lagerfeld.
650
00:39:07,470 --> 00:39:10,514
[Bowles] I loved what Karl had been doing
at Chloé,
651
00:39:10,598 --> 00:39:13,684
but he was also creative director
for Chanel.
652
00:39:13,768 --> 00:39:16,312
[reporter] He has single-handedly
made the name of Chanel
653
00:39:16,395 --> 00:39:20,858
wildly trendy again without jeopardising
its status as a fashion classic.
654
00:39:20,941 --> 00:39:23,194
[Claudia Schiffer] He was a true genius,
like Mozart,
655
00:39:23,277 --> 00:39:27,031
and he would often wake up to sketch
in the middle of the night, for example,
656
00:39:27,114 --> 00:39:29,367
and I remember him sketching so rapidly,
657
00:39:29,450 --> 00:39:32,953
as if his hands could barely keep up
with the ideas in his mind.
658
00:39:33,704 --> 00:39:37,083
His brain needed to be constantly at work.
659
00:39:37,166 --> 00:39:41,379
It's instinct.
He drew ever since he was a child.
660
00:39:41,462 --> 00:39:42,922
That was his thing.
661
00:39:43,005 --> 00:39:44,715
I always was interested in fashion
662
00:39:44,799 --> 00:39:46,717
before I even knew
fashion was called fashion.
663
00:39:46,801 --> 00:39:48,803
Karl's mind was exceptional.
664
00:39:49,387 --> 00:39:53,474
There wasn't anything
that you could bring up
665
00:39:53,557 --> 00:39:56,644
that he wouldn't know everything about.
666
00:39:57,228 --> 00:40:02,149
He was not only a great designer,
but he was also a philosopher,
667
00:40:02,233 --> 00:40:05,528
a poet, a writer, a photographer,
668
00:40:06,112 --> 00:40:10,616
a furniture designer,
an architect, interior designer.
669
00:40:10,699 --> 00:40:14,245
He was so many things.
You know, he was like an emperor.
670
00:40:15,788 --> 00:40:18,666
[Enninful] Karl Lagerfeld was unparalleled
in the '90s.
671
00:40:21,085 --> 00:40:23,712
And for Stella,
she had to navigate this world
672
00:40:23,796 --> 00:40:25,423
that she'd never encountered before.
673
00:40:27,550 --> 00:40:29,176
[McCartney] When I started at Chloé,
674
00:40:29,260 --> 00:40:31,804
Karl Lagerfeld did the most genius quote,
I think,
675
00:40:31,887 --> 00:40:36,517
he said, "I knew they'd take a big name
to fill my boots,
676
00:40:37,309 --> 00:40:41,272
"but I thought they'd use a big name
in fashion, not music."
677
00:40:41,355 --> 00:40:43,941
And I was like, "Oof, bitch."
678
00:40:44,024 --> 00:40:45,234
[laughs]
679
00:40:45,317 --> 00:40:46,819
[people chattering indistinctly]
680
00:40:52,992 --> 00:40:54,869
[reporter] Stella McCartney
couldn't have chosen
681
00:40:54,952 --> 00:40:56,829
a more dramatic location
for her fashion show.
682
00:40:56,912 --> 00:40:58,164
This is the Paris Opera,
683
00:40:58,247 --> 00:41:02,334
and if you have a look around here,
it really is the most opulent of places.
684
00:41:02,418 --> 00:41:04,420
My first show at Chloé,
literally, I was like,
685
00:41:04,503 --> 00:41:06,005
"I don't know what's going on."
686
00:41:06,088 --> 00:41:09,925
They said, "You need
to put down something like 80 looks,"
687
00:41:10,009 --> 00:41:12,720
and there were thousands of people,
and I was just like, "Okay."
688
00:41:14,054 --> 00:41:16,891
[Wintour] It was very difficult
at the beginning for Stella.
689
00:41:16,974 --> 00:41:20,269
Maybe things had happened
because of her surname.
690
00:41:20,352 --> 00:41:23,272
[reporter] When she took over at Chloé
from Karl Lagerfeld,
691
00:41:23,355 --> 00:41:26,442
many said that at 25,
Stella McCartney was too young,
692
00:41:26,525 --> 00:41:28,486
they said she got the job
because of her dad.
693
00:41:29,278 --> 00:41:32,615
But she followed her creative instincts.
694
00:41:33,199 --> 00:41:35,784
"This is what I'm gonna do
and this is who I am.
695
00:41:38,162 --> 00:41:40,080
"I'm not Karl Lagerfeld,
I'm Stella McCartney."
696
00:41:40,164 --> 00:41:42,958
[♪ upbeat music playing]
697
00:42:00,142 --> 00:42:01,560
[Moss] And the clothes were beautiful.
698
00:42:01,644 --> 00:42:04,438
I know she was inspired a lot
by her mother
699
00:42:04,522 --> 00:42:07,900
and her mum's wardrobe
from the '70s and stuff,
700
00:42:07,983 --> 00:42:11,570
so she did do things
that weren't so out there.
701
00:42:13,656 --> 00:42:15,157
But she knew what she was doing.
702
00:42:20,746 --> 00:42:22,081
Not only does she have a real talent,
703
00:42:22,164 --> 00:42:26,877
Stella has always
been very clear and defined
704
00:42:26,961 --> 00:42:29,463
in what she wants and what she was doing.
705
00:42:29,547 --> 00:42:31,715
[clapping and cheering]
706
00:42:35,636 --> 00:42:37,304
[Alexander] She was an absolute triumph.
707
00:42:37,388 --> 00:42:40,140
I think that she'd foiled all the doubters
708
00:42:40,224 --> 00:42:42,977
and she sent down a collection
that was so pretty
709
00:42:43,060 --> 00:42:45,813
so girlie, so romantic and so sexy
710
00:42:45,896 --> 00:42:48,065
that it just knocked spots
off a lot of things.
711
00:42:48,148 --> 00:42:49,942
[cheering]
712
00:42:50,025 --> 00:42:52,069
I think they're beautiful clothes,
very feminine
713
00:42:52,152 --> 00:42:54,238
and I think she's a very talented girl.
714
00:42:55,656 --> 00:42:57,992
It did really well. I mean, look,
yeah it's true,
715
00:42:58,075 --> 00:43:01,203
there's no better revenge
than just like kicking arse.
716
00:43:02,079 --> 00:43:06,083
And then Karl Lagerfeld very quickly
retracted the comment
717
00:43:06,166 --> 00:43:10,796
and would spend sort of many a weekend
saying, "Can I take your photo?"
718
00:43:10,879 --> 00:43:13,090
I'd be like, "No, because I'm getting
on the Eurostar
719
00:43:13,173 --> 00:43:15,175
"and I'm going home, and riding my horse."
720
00:43:21,807 --> 00:43:24,852
London's young designers
had conquered Paris.
721
00:43:24,935 --> 00:43:27,271
[people chattering indistinctly]
722
00:43:31,817 --> 00:43:36,405
[Bowles] But it was Princess Diana
who offered the ultimate seal of approval.
723
00:43:37,823 --> 00:43:39,825
[people shouting indistinctly]
724
00:43:39,908 --> 00:43:44,496
I think all of us were so captivated
725
00:43:44,580 --> 00:43:48,542
and fascinated by Princess Diana.
726
00:43:50,544 --> 00:43:54,256
At that time, she was the most famous
woman in the world.
727
00:43:57,843 --> 00:44:01,597
She was enjoying fashion
and the spotlight
728
00:44:01,680 --> 00:44:05,517
that she put on, particularly,
British designers.
729
00:44:07,269 --> 00:44:12,274
I remember one day, we all jumped
into this old van and we went to London
730
00:44:13,150 --> 00:44:15,653
where we met Princess Diana.
731
00:44:17,237 --> 00:44:18,822
She'd been invited to the Met
732
00:44:19,907 --> 00:44:21,742
and she would wear one of my dresses.
733
00:44:23,369 --> 00:44:27,539
The Met Gala is the most influential
red carpet in the world.
734
00:44:29,583 --> 00:44:31,669
It was like a blessing, I mean, wow.
735
00:44:32,836 --> 00:44:36,173
We went to Kensington Palace
and discussed drawings
736
00:44:36,256 --> 00:44:39,677
and I was trying to push a pink,
but she was not having it, "No, not pink."
737
00:44:39,760 --> 00:44:41,220
That was real, real fun.
738
00:44:43,097 --> 00:44:45,307
So we did the dress
and subsequent fittings
739
00:44:45,391 --> 00:44:48,852
and it was beautifully done, you know,
very kind of correct,
740
00:44:48,936 --> 00:44:51,480
you know, the corset,
everything was correct.
741
00:44:53,691 --> 00:44:56,694
[car horn honking]
742
00:44:56,777 --> 00:44:58,529
[Galliano] Fast forward to the event
743
00:45:00,406 --> 00:45:02,491
and I just remember her
getting out the car,
744
00:45:03,784 --> 00:45:04,910
I was like... [gasps]
745
00:45:06,412 --> 00:45:07,538
I couldn't believe it.
746
00:45:08,789 --> 00:45:10,791
She'd ripped the corset out.
747
00:45:13,043 --> 00:45:14,878
She didn't wanna wear the corset.
748
00:45:17,047 --> 00:45:20,050
She felt so liberated,
she'd torn the corset out.
749
00:45:20,134 --> 00:45:24,555
The dress was much more sensuous.
750
00:45:28,225 --> 00:45:30,519
The cameras went mental.
751
00:45:30,602 --> 00:45:32,896
The paparazzi was blinding...
752
00:45:34,606 --> 00:45:37,443
which made the dress really bling
and the jewels and everything.
753
00:45:38,485 --> 00:45:41,530
[Wintour] I don't think that anyone
had worn Galliano for Dior
754
00:45:41,613 --> 00:45:46,118
on the red carpet
at such an important moment before.
755
00:45:47,035 --> 00:45:49,997
It was a really amazing opportunity.
756
00:45:50,831 --> 00:45:55,252
[Bowles] It was like Diana had embraced
the fashion rebels.
757
00:45:56,295 --> 00:45:59,631
I mean, wow,
Diana was my first couture client.
758
00:46:01,759 --> 00:46:02,801
Great, you know?
759
00:46:05,012 --> 00:46:07,222
It just felt like a triumph
of British fashion,
760
00:46:07,306 --> 00:46:09,975
it felt like a triumph of all the work
we'd been doing in London.
761
00:46:11,685 --> 00:46:13,729
[Wintour] And so London became a place
762
00:46:13,812 --> 00:46:16,315
where you went to look
for the best talent.
763
00:46:20,861 --> 00:46:25,032
[Galliano] Yes, there was an influx
of British designers
764
00:46:25,115 --> 00:46:29,787
holding incredible positions
in historic French houses.
765
00:46:29,870 --> 00:46:33,373
So it was kind of an electrifying time.
766
00:46:34,500 --> 00:46:36,418
[McCartney] We just would hang out.
767
00:46:37,669 --> 00:46:39,963
You know, Lee and I went
out for dinner many times
768
00:46:40,047 --> 00:46:42,633
and I would do the same with John,
769
00:46:42,716 --> 00:46:46,428
and there was a moment there where we were
kind of running the show, I would say.
770
00:46:47,137 --> 00:46:48,847
[people chattering indistinctly]
771
00:46:48,931 --> 00:46:50,432
[Bowles] Everything turned.
772
00:46:50,516 --> 00:46:53,852
Fashion became about the youth
773
00:46:54,686 --> 00:46:56,563
rather than the establishment.
774
00:46:56,647 --> 00:46:57,815
[people chattering indistinctly]
775
00:46:57,898 --> 00:47:00,651
It was amazing to think
that what had started in London
776
00:47:00,734 --> 00:47:03,403
essentially had now gone
on an international level.
777
00:47:03,487 --> 00:47:05,113
[clapping]
778
00:47:05,197 --> 00:47:06,824
[Enninful] Fashion was changing.
779
00:47:06,907 --> 00:47:09,576
We weren't kids any more,
everybody was growing up.
780
00:47:10,410 --> 00:47:13,163
It really felt like a revolution
was underway.
781
00:47:15,541 --> 00:47:18,168
There was a sense
that everything was changing.
782
00:47:19,044 --> 00:47:21,088
We were on the front page
of every newspaper
783
00:47:21,171 --> 00:47:23,048
and we're like, "What the hell is this?"
784
00:47:23,131 --> 00:47:26,677
Did we know what was coming?
No, but we knew something was coming.
785
00:47:26,760 --> 00:47:30,055
[Coddington] I said to Anna,
"This is the beginning of the end,
786
00:47:30,138 --> 00:47:32,349
"where are we going with this?"
787
00:47:32,432 --> 00:47:34,643
What? You're gonna, like,
bring back the '70s?
788
00:47:34,726 --> 00:47:37,104
You're gonna bring back sex?
That's not happening.
789
00:47:37,187 --> 00:47:38,272
Action!
790
00:47:38,856 --> 00:47:41,692
[Enninful] Fur, feathers, sequins.
791
00:47:41,775 --> 00:47:43,193
It was extremely boring.
792
00:47:44,152 --> 00:47:47,698
Let's get women on the red carpet
in our clothes.
793
00:47:48,532 --> 00:47:51,952
I just remember Madonna and Courtney Love
saying, "Best dress."
794
00:47:52,035 --> 00:47:53,829
[laughs]
795
00:47:53,912 --> 00:47:55,664
[♪ theme music playing]
64323
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