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-[car horn beeping]
-[sirens wailing in distance]
2
00:00:19,644 --> 00:00:21,896
-Okay, so we'll try to take as much off.
-[Anna Wintour] Yeah.
3
00:00:21,980 --> 00:00:24,024
-As quick as possible.
-[Wintour] Yeah, that'd be great.
4
00:00:26,818 --> 00:00:27,944
Ooh.
5
00:00:28,028 --> 00:00:29,029
Sorry.
6
00:00:29,654 --> 00:00:30,780
[phone ringing]
7
00:00:31,489 --> 00:00:33,074
Hi, so it went well?
8
00:00:33,158 --> 00:00:34,325
Yes, it was good.
9
00:00:34,409 --> 00:00:35,535
-Yeah?
-Yeah.
10
00:00:35,618 --> 00:00:37,037
It was romantic and cinematic.
11
00:00:37,120 --> 00:00:40,331
-[Wintour] You look great, right?
-He cannot take a bad picture.
12
00:00:40,415 --> 00:00:42,000
-[Wintour] Good. Hiya.
-Hello.
13
00:00:43,168 --> 00:00:48,089
Vogue has always been the defining
magazine publication about fashion.
14
00:00:50,091 --> 00:00:51,301
[woman] Stop it.
15
00:00:51,384 --> 00:00:52,427
[Edward Enninful] Fresh!
16
00:00:52,510 --> 00:00:54,471
[woman] O-M-G.
17
00:00:54,554 --> 00:00:57,140
-Wow!
-There's only one, look at that face.
18
00:00:57,223 --> 00:01:00,018
-Look at that body, look at it.
-The body!
19
00:01:01,269 --> 00:01:03,021
-I mean...
-[exclaims]
20
00:01:03,104 --> 00:01:05,148
[Enninful] There's no one
like Naomi Campbell,
21
00:01:05,231 --> 00:01:06,274
there isn't.
22
00:01:06,357 --> 00:01:08,943
No wonder she gets away with murder.
23
00:01:09,027 --> 00:01:11,738
-Okay, that's not here yet?
-No, it's there.
24
00:01:11,821 --> 00:01:15,200
[Wintour] So three in, three out
and the cover.
25
00:01:15,283 --> 00:01:17,202
You never forget your Vogue covers.
26
00:01:19,204 --> 00:01:22,916
The dream ultimately
was to be on the cover of Vogue.
27
00:01:24,125 --> 00:01:28,088
When Anna put me on the cover,
it was like, "What?"
28
00:01:30,757 --> 00:01:33,134
Where's that blue one
we were looking at the other day?
29
00:01:33,218 --> 00:01:34,928
[woman] I think we have that one.
30
00:01:35,011 --> 00:01:38,264
When you think of Anna Wintour,
you think of just this like,
31
00:01:38,348 --> 00:01:41,309
chic, strong, boss woman.
32
00:01:41,392 --> 00:01:44,729
I mean, that seems
to be more in the palette.
33
00:01:44,813 --> 00:01:46,815
She is this Warholian enigma,
34
00:01:46,898 --> 00:01:50,235
like a famous haircut,
kind of like a living legend.
35
00:01:50,318 --> 00:01:51,986
[Tonne Goodman]
There's no two ways about it.
36
00:01:52,070 --> 00:01:55,073
Vogue is Anna Wintour
and Anna Wintour is Vogue.
37
00:01:55,657 --> 00:01:57,700
-[Wintour] So you want me to sit here?
-Yes please, Anna.
38
00:01:57,784 --> 00:01:59,536
-Okay.
-[woman] Anna, I'm sorry to ask you,
39
00:01:59,619 --> 00:02:02,038
would you mind awfully
taking your sunglasses off?
40
00:02:02,122 --> 00:02:03,248
No, I'm gonna wear them.
41
00:02:07,460 --> 00:02:09,754
-[Naomi Campbell] Right, are we ready?
-[man] Sound's rolling.
42
00:02:11,047 --> 00:02:13,967
[sighs] Wow,
what does the '90s mean to me?
43
00:02:14,050 --> 00:02:17,595
God, the '90s just changed everything.
44
00:02:17,679 --> 00:02:20,056
Way too much fun, way too messy.
45
00:02:20,140 --> 00:02:22,976
But I'll let Kate tell you those stories.
[laughs]
46
00:02:23,601 --> 00:02:25,603
Oh, no. [laughs]
47
00:02:27,230 --> 00:02:31,276
[Enninful] It was the decade that turned
the fashion industry upside down.
48
00:02:31,359 --> 00:02:33,903
-It was a whirlwind.
-If you made movies,
49
00:02:33,987 --> 00:02:35,655
you didn't hang out
with the fashion people.
50
00:02:35,738 --> 00:02:38,992
If you did fashion,
you didn't hang out with music people.
51
00:02:39,075 --> 00:02:42,912
[Amber Valletta] There was a huge change
that kind of happened with fashion,
52
00:02:42,996 --> 00:02:44,747
film, music...
53
00:02:44,831 --> 00:02:48,084
all of these creative industries
were starting to converge.
54
00:02:48,168 --> 00:02:52,213
It wasn't just about music,
it became about the clothes too.
55
00:02:52,297 --> 00:02:54,799
It was a great time to be alive.
56
00:02:54,883 --> 00:02:57,719
[Enninful] It really felt
like a revolution was underway.
57
00:02:57,802 --> 00:03:01,890
Every corner you would see this image,
it was inescapable.
58
00:03:01,973 --> 00:03:05,935
You have to anticipate what they want
before they know they want it.
59
00:03:06,644 --> 00:03:09,522
Oh. But we need to talk about the fact
that I was the only Black person too.
60
00:03:09,606 --> 00:03:12,859
They weren't treating us the way
they treat us now. Absolutely not.
61
00:03:12,942 --> 00:03:15,737
The public was fascinated by fashion.
62
00:03:15,820 --> 00:03:19,991
When I saw the Tom Ford Gucci,
it was like, "Oh, my God."
63
00:03:20,074 --> 00:03:23,369
You're like, "Yeah, I wanna turn heads,
why not?"
64
00:03:23,453 --> 00:03:24,454
[laughs]
65
00:03:24,537 --> 00:03:26,497
-Is everyone happy?
-[Gwyneth Paltrow] Define happy.
66
00:03:27,373 --> 00:03:28,416
[laughs]
67
00:03:31,419 --> 00:03:32,795
[♪ electronic music playing]
68
00:03:33,421 --> 00:03:35,465
That decade changed everything.
69
00:03:35,548 --> 00:03:36,549
Okay.
70
00:03:36,633 --> 00:03:38,051
-Okay.
-Okay.
71
00:03:38,134 --> 00:03:39,385
-All right.
-So I'm looking at you?
72
00:03:39,469 --> 00:03:40,470
[man] Yes, please.
73
00:03:47,143 --> 00:03:49,562
[radio host] No place like New York today.
What a day.
74
00:03:49,646 --> 00:03:51,981
Right now in Central Park,
the present temperature
75
00:03:52,065 --> 00:03:55,568
is still pleasant, 49 degrees,
humidity 44%, the wind's starting...
76
00:03:55,652 --> 00:03:58,571
Ever since Anna Wintour,
the editor of British Vogue,
77
00:03:58,655 --> 00:04:01,574
was brought to New York by Condé Nast,
there have been rumours
78
00:04:01,658 --> 00:04:04,786
that Miss Wintour would become
the editor of American Vogue.
79
00:04:04,869 --> 00:04:07,872
Now the hot publishing story
is that this probably will happen
80
00:04:07,956 --> 00:04:09,249
on September 1st.
81
00:04:11,501 --> 00:04:13,586
It was a big deal
when Anna went to American Vogue.
82
00:04:13,670 --> 00:04:14,837
I remember it very well.
83
00:04:16,798 --> 00:04:19,175
[Jonathan Van Meter] There was
a picture in some publication
84
00:04:19,259 --> 00:04:21,052
and then I, like,
leaned in to look at her,
85
00:04:21,135 --> 00:04:23,554
and it was just like a whole new character
in the universe
86
00:04:23,638 --> 00:04:26,683
was introduced at the moment.
I was like instantly fascinated.
87
00:04:27,976 --> 00:04:29,894
I'm actually concerned
about those bathing suits.
88
00:04:29,978 --> 00:04:31,896
I'm not sure we should
be doing them anyway.
89
00:04:32,647 --> 00:04:35,066
I grew up in England back in the '60s.
90
00:04:37,026 --> 00:04:39,570
I was interested in the world of fashion
91
00:04:39,654 --> 00:04:42,407
because it was such an explosive time
in London then.
92
00:04:43,616 --> 00:04:46,744
My dad was a London Fleet Street
newspaper editor.
93
00:04:46,828 --> 00:04:50,456
He also had a reputation
for being a little bit tough.
94
00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:56,212
I first started working in journalism
when I was in my late teens.
95
00:04:56,296 --> 00:05:00,133
And like so many things in life,
it just unfolded.
96
00:05:01,926 --> 00:05:04,053
[woman] These are the colours.
What do you think?
97
00:05:04,137 --> 00:05:05,722
-[Wintour] Fabulous.
-[man] It's great.
98
00:05:05,805 --> 00:05:07,140
It's gonna be a wonderful sitting.
99
00:05:08,141 --> 00:05:11,394
Condé Nast asked me to join Vogue
as Editor-in-Chief
100
00:05:11,477 --> 00:05:14,063
because they felt
it was time for change.
101
00:05:15,273 --> 00:05:19,652
Under the previous leadership,
every cover of Vogue looked all the same,
102
00:05:19,736 --> 00:05:22,780
very close up, airbrushed,
103
00:05:22,864 --> 00:05:25,575
big hair, big makeup, big earrings.
104
00:05:26,367 --> 00:05:29,037
Everything was very ornate.
105
00:05:30,288 --> 00:05:34,000
[in French accent] Before Anna arrived,
the magazine was extremely boring,
106
00:05:34,083 --> 00:05:38,504
boring, boring, beige, boring, boring.
107
00:05:39,255 --> 00:05:44,218
Sometimes you just need
to tear everything up and start over.
108
00:05:45,553 --> 00:05:47,347
-[beep]
-[people chattering indistinctly]
109
00:05:47,430 --> 00:05:52,477
[Wintour] I had no plan, but I knew
I had to have really creative,
110
00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:54,395
brilliant people working with me.
111
00:05:55,688 --> 00:05:57,815
She's very demanding,
she's very demanding.
112
00:05:57,899 --> 00:05:59,692
You have to give a lot of your time,
113
00:05:59,776 --> 00:06:02,070
but if she feels
you have a talent for a thing,
114
00:06:02,153 --> 00:06:03,196
she totally supports it.
115
00:06:04,489 --> 00:06:06,240
[Wintour] Hamish, I actually interviewed,
116
00:06:06,324 --> 00:06:09,035
and I could see my assistant
looking a bit pale.
117
00:06:10,078 --> 00:06:13,039
I'd been wearing my latest clobber
118
00:06:13,122 --> 00:06:17,794
and one of Anna's right-hand women
looked at me aghast.
119
00:06:17,877 --> 00:06:21,089
He walked into my office
and he and I were wearing the same jacket.
120
00:06:21,172 --> 00:06:22,924
[laughs]
121
00:06:23,007 --> 00:06:24,384
The same jacket.
122
00:06:25,176 --> 00:06:27,220
[Wintour] So I knew
he was the person for me.
123
00:06:28,763 --> 00:06:30,681
But I think
when you surround yourself with people
124
00:06:30,765 --> 00:06:33,226
that agree with you, it's a disaster.
125
00:06:33,309 --> 00:06:36,979
-Okay, I'd better see Jo. Thanks, Trudy.
-[Trudy] Thanks, Grace.
126
00:06:37,063 --> 00:06:41,109
[Grace Coddington] I worked with her first
at British Vogue in the mid-'80s,
127
00:06:41,192 --> 00:06:45,279
but I found it difficult, to be honest,
and she knew it.
128
00:06:45,363 --> 00:06:48,908
Grace actually quit British Vogue
because she didn't like what she called
129
00:06:48,991 --> 00:06:54,414
I was doing to Americanise British Vogue
and she went to work for Calvin Klein.
130
00:06:54,497 --> 00:06:57,959
It was just a timing thing
that I thought was perfect
131
00:06:58,042 --> 00:07:00,211
and she didn't, obviously,
132
00:07:00,294 --> 00:07:03,631
but we didn't lose contact.
133
00:07:03,714 --> 00:07:07,885
When I was given the editorship,
the very first phone call I had,
134
00:07:07,969 --> 00:07:10,430
sitting at this desk, was from Grace.
135
00:07:10,513 --> 00:07:13,975
She said,
"I'm starting on Monday, officially
136
00:07:14,058 --> 00:07:15,893
"and so why don't you start with me?"
137
00:07:15,977 --> 00:07:18,354
More, more, more. More, more.
138
00:07:18,438 --> 00:07:22,650
At this point in time,
I really was on a different trajectory.
139
00:07:22,733 --> 00:07:26,988
First Calvin and then Harper's Bazaar,
but Anna is very forthright.
140
00:07:27,071 --> 00:07:30,074
[Wintour] It took me a while
to persuade her to join us,
141
00:07:30,158 --> 00:07:31,451
but I succeeded.
142
00:07:33,369 --> 00:07:37,123
I think we all need people
that challenge the way you think,
143
00:07:37,206 --> 00:07:39,459
and that challenge the way
you have done things
144
00:07:39,542 --> 00:07:43,463
and, you know why, for so many years
I worked so well with Grace or Tonne
145
00:07:43,546 --> 00:07:45,465
or Carlyne, of course, Hamish,
146
00:07:45,548 --> 00:07:48,468
because they looked at the world
through different eyes.
147
00:07:49,469 --> 00:07:51,554
[Carlynne Cerf De Dudzeele]
It was a good team, I must say.
148
00:07:51,637 --> 00:07:54,015
You know, when you are looking
at the row, it was like,
149
00:07:54,307 --> 00:07:57,059
"Oh là là. The Vogue team is arriving."
150
00:07:57,143 --> 00:08:00,188
I mean, it was fun! It was power!
151
00:08:04,901 --> 00:08:07,778
[pilot] I'd like to welcome you aboard
this British Airways Concorde
152
00:08:07,862 --> 00:08:10,615
and I hope that we'll
have a very special flight today.
153
00:08:10,698 --> 00:08:13,034
[engine whirring]
154
00:08:14,535 --> 00:08:19,916
I remember I was on a plane,
coming back from London
155
00:08:19,999 --> 00:08:24,212
and a very conservative gentleman
sat next to me and we started to talk.
156
00:08:25,379 --> 00:08:28,257
He asked me what I did,
and I said I worked at Vogue,
157
00:08:29,342 --> 00:08:32,595
and he said, "I love Vogue,
it makes me think of Audrey Hepburn.
158
00:08:33,387 --> 00:08:37,725
"Grace Kelly and I think about
all these amazing icons."
159
00:08:37,808 --> 00:08:38,935
And then he said to me,
160
00:08:39,018 --> 00:08:41,229
"And of course Vogue
could never be Madonna."
161
00:08:41,312 --> 00:08:44,273
And that was like a light bulb going off
162
00:08:44,357 --> 00:08:46,943
because I thought, "Well, of course,
Vogue should be Madonna."
163
00:08:49,654 --> 00:08:52,114
[male reporter] Nudity,
suggestions of bisexuality,
164
00:08:52,198 --> 00:08:55,159
sadomasochism, multiple partners.
165
00:08:55,243 --> 00:08:59,038
I like to provoke people,
but I don't think about the danger of it,
166
00:08:59,121 --> 00:09:01,832
and if there is a dangerous element,
that's exciting to me.
167
00:09:02,959 --> 00:09:06,629
Madonna was controversial,
but she represented
168
00:09:06,712 --> 00:09:10,132
such a shift in who was creating fashion,
169
00:09:10,216 --> 00:09:13,135
who are young women,
young men looking up to
170
00:09:13,219 --> 00:09:17,723
in terms of who their style icons were
and with all respect
171
00:09:17,807 --> 00:09:21,185
to the very, very nice gentleman
I sat next to on the plane,
172
00:09:21,269 --> 00:09:24,730
it wasn't Audrey Hepburn
and it wasn't Grace Kelly.
173
00:09:24,814 --> 00:09:27,191
It was a different generation,
it was a different time.
174
00:09:27,275 --> 00:09:29,193
[woman] Who do I wanna be? Madonna.
175
00:09:29,277 --> 00:09:31,737
She doesn't care what anyone thinks
and she's just herself.
176
00:09:31,821 --> 00:09:35,199
Every girl in some way
wanted to be Madonna.
177
00:09:36,325 --> 00:09:37,326
♪ Strike a pose... ♪
178
00:09:37,410 --> 00:09:38,744
It's Madonna.
179
00:09:38,828 --> 00:09:40,830
[woman] They're trying to find
a different way to dress
180
00:09:40,913 --> 00:09:43,666
than how their parents want them to
and everything else and that.
181
00:09:43,749 --> 00:09:45,209
It's a kind of rebellion.
182
00:09:45,293 --> 00:09:46,627
[♪ pop music playing,
Madonna "Vogue"]
183
00:09:46,711 --> 00:09:48,337
♪ Strike a pose... ♪
184
00:09:48,421 --> 00:09:50,256
We all love Madonna, let's say it.
185
00:09:50,339 --> 00:09:51,966
-We love Madonna.
-We love Madonna.
186
00:09:53,718 --> 00:09:55,553
♪ Vogue, Vogue ♪
187
00:10:00,766 --> 00:10:02,184
♪ Look around ♪
188
00:10:02,268 --> 00:10:04,604
♪ Everywhere you turn is heartache ♪
189
00:10:04,687 --> 00:10:07,189
♪ It's everywhere that you go ♪
190
00:10:07,273 --> 00:10:09,025
♪ Look around ♪
191
00:10:09,108 --> 00:10:12,570
♪ You try everything you can to escape ♪
192
00:10:12,653 --> 00:10:15,156
♪ The pain of life that you know ♪
193
00:10:15,239 --> 00:10:17,241
♪ Life that you know... ♪
194
00:10:17,325 --> 00:10:22,038
She was not afraid to express herself
with her fashion,
195
00:10:22,121 --> 00:10:24,624
express herself through her sexuality.
196
00:10:24,707 --> 00:10:26,334
[announcer] Madonna!
197
00:10:26,417 --> 00:10:28,502
[woman whooping]
198
00:10:29,253 --> 00:10:32,131
Madonna was the ultimate in girl power.
199
00:10:32,214 --> 00:10:34,383
♪ So come on, Vogue ♪
200
00:10:36,052 --> 00:10:39,722
♪ Let your body move to the music ♪
201
00:10:39,805 --> 00:10:41,015
♪ Hey, hey, hey ♪
202
00:10:41,098 --> 00:10:43,184
♪ Come on, Vogue ♪
203
00:10:43,267 --> 00:10:44,352
♪ Vogue ♪
204
00:10:44,435 --> 00:10:47,313
♪ Let your body go with the flow ♪
205
00:10:47,396 --> 00:10:50,149
-[chorus] ♪ Go with the flow ♪
-♪ You know you can do it... ♪
206
00:10:50,232 --> 00:10:52,026
I was the biggest Madonna fan.
207
00:10:52,109 --> 00:10:54,904
I was her dog walker
back in the day.
208
00:10:54,987 --> 00:10:57,907
She was my neighbour
and so I was, like, eight years old.
209
00:10:57,990 --> 00:10:59,659
♪ Don't just stand there
Let's get to it ♪
210
00:10:59,742 --> 00:11:02,995
♪ Strike a pose
There's nothing to it, Vogue ♪
211
00:11:03,079 --> 00:11:06,374
I remember waiting
for every Madonna video to come out.
212
00:11:06,457 --> 00:11:09,043
You would just wait for it to see
what her look was gonna be,
213
00:11:09,126 --> 00:11:10,127
what she was wearing.
214
00:11:10,211 --> 00:11:12,380
It's like where you get
all your inspiration from.
215
00:11:12,463 --> 00:11:14,423
♪ Ooh, you've got to ♪
216
00:11:16,425 --> 00:11:18,135
♪ Vogue ♪
217
00:11:19,428 --> 00:11:24,392
If you stay with the tried and true,
you're gonna get left behind,
218
00:11:24,475 --> 00:11:27,311
so I didn't think about the risk.
219
00:11:27,395 --> 00:11:28,771
You do what you think is right.
220
00:11:30,314 --> 00:11:34,318
I landed, called everyone,
the shoot happened.
221
00:11:35,236 --> 00:11:36,487
[beeps]
222
00:11:39,990 --> 00:11:42,326
[Wintour] Okay, good.
And the colour print of Madonna.
223
00:11:44,370 --> 00:11:45,621
It made perfect sense to me
224
00:11:45,705 --> 00:11:49,208
because she had become so associated,
Madonna, with fashion.
225
00:11:50,251 --> 00:11:51,627
She wore clothes,
226
00:11:51,711 --> 00:11:55,840
took clothes, made them her own,
redefined them.
227
00:11:55,923 --> 00:11:57,633
The idea of putting her on the cover,
228
00:11:57,717 --> 00:12:01,637
it seemed rather clever...
[laughing] to me.
229
00:12:03,139 --> 00:12:05,933
[Wintour] I remember looking
at the images,
230
00:12:06,016 --> 00:12:08,602
choosing the one of her coming
out of the pool.
231
00:12:09,687 --> 00:12:11,856
I loved the informality of it.
232
00:12:13,149 --> 00:12:15,234
[man] I just think
she looks so great here.
233
00:12:15,317 --> 00:12:18,529
[Wintour] The printers did call us
to say, "Have you made a mistake?"
234
00:12:18,612 --> 00:12:20,322
"And who's that pretty girl?"
235
00:12:20,406 --> 00:12:23,701
They didn't even know that it was Madonna
because at the time,
236
00:12:23,784 --> 00:12:29,123
there was such a defined image of her
being a lot more made up.
237
00:12:30,166 --> 00:12:31,542
This is a great picture.
238
00:12:31,625 --> 00:12:34,462
A T-shirt and jeans and a sailor cap.
You know, why not?
239
00:12:34,545 --> 00:12:36,922
But this is what she really
loves to look like.
240
00:12:37,006 --> 00:12:40,176
I think Anna has a definite mission.
241
00:12:40,968 --> 00:12:42,720
We tried to approach Madonna
in a different way.
242
00:12:44,638 --> 00:12:48,517
[Bowles] She was wearing
all the magnificent clothes,
243
00:12:48,601 --> 00:12:52,563
but she was just wearing them at home
and devouring popcorn,
244
00:12:52,646 --> 00:12:58,235
and there was something real about it
which was very new for Vogue.
245
00:12:59,403 --> 00:13:02,698
[Parker] I think it was probably
around that time
246
00:13:02,782 --> 00:13:05,659
that I started saving my March issues,
you know, I did that,
247
00:13:05,743 --> 00:13:09,580
was it the March and September issues,
the big fat gorgeous ones, yeah.
248
00:13:11,165 --> 00:13:16,587
One day I went over to walk Madonna's dog
and she brought down a shoebox
249
00:13:16,670 --> 00:13:18,714
and gave it to me and Kourtney,
and we opened the box,
250
00:13:18,798 --> 00:13:20,925
and it was all neon rubbery bracelets.
251
00:13:22,176 --> 00:13:24,720
And she said, "Here, girls,
I'm so over this phase."
252
00:13:24,804 --> 00:13:27,389
We went to school,
wearing all this neon stuff.
253
00:13:27,473 --> 00:13:30,142
And everyone was like,
"Oh, my God, where did you get that?"
254
00:13:30,226 --> 00:13:33,312
We were like, "Madonna gave it to me."
And they were like, "Yeah, right."
255
00:13:33,395 --> 00:13:35,731
I'm like, "No, seriously,
Madonna gave it to me."
256
00:13:36,732 --> 00:13:39,235
[Goodman] That cover was a huge success.
257
00:13:40,402 --> 00:13:43,697
Having her plastered
all over the newsstands,
258
00:13:43,781 --> 00:13:46,951
every corner you would see
this marriage of Vogue
259
00:13:47,034 --> 00:13:52,540
and this pop culture star who was,
you know, as daring as Anna.
260
00:13:53,499 --> 00:13:55,543
[Wintour] It felt new, it felt different.
261
00:13:56,585 --> 00:13:59,463
It felt like the statement
that we were looking for.
262
00:13:59,547 --> 00:14:04,009
-[man] Five, four, three, two, one!
-[crowd cheering]
263
00:14:04,093 --> 00:14:06,303
[man] Happy New Year, everybody!
264
00:14:06,387 --> 00:14:07,847
[fireworks exploding]
265
00:14:09,306 --> 00:14:12,142
[Enninful] Right at the beginning
of the decade, I was 18,
266
00:14:12,226 --> 00:14:16,313
I was a model and a stylist just
starting out in the fashion industry,
267
00:14:16,397 --> 00:14:20,359
and I remember going to WHSmith,
January 1990,
268
00:14:20,442 --> 00:14:23,946
and I saw five supermodels
on the cover of British Vogue.
269
00:14:24,029 --> 00:14:25,030
I just loved it.
270
00:14:26,490 --> 00:14:30,536
It was a black-and-white picture,
the girls looked like themselves.
271
00:14:30,619 --> 00:14:34,290
It was like a direct
sort of break from the '80s.
272
00:14:35,541 --> 00:14:36,834
Let's not forget those girls,
273
00:14:36,917 --> 00:14:39,962
they hadn't become the phenomena
that they would become yet.
274
00:14:41,005 --> 00:14:43,048
George Michael looked
at these girls and thought...
275
00:14:43,591 --> 00:14:44,592
[snaps finger]
276
00:14:44,675 --> 00:14:48,095
"That's a moment, I'm going to put them
in, all in my video, Freedom! '90."
277
00:14:56,020 --> 00:14:57,396
[♪ contemporary music playing]
278
00:14:57,479 --> 00:14:59,607
[Enninful] A popstar not appearing
in their own music video
279
00:14:59,690 --> 00:15:00,983
happens all the time now.
280
00:15:01,066 --> 00:15:03,611
But back then, we'd never heard of it.
281
00:15:04,737 --> 00:15:06,447
[Campbell] I had been listening
to the album,
282
00:15:06,530 --> 00:15:08,198
I was listening to it anyway.
283
00:15:09,366 --> 00:15:12,119
I just thought, "Well, if anything,
it's gonna be a great memory
284
00:15:12,202 --> 00:15:14,246
"for us to have this video."
285
00:15:14,330 --> 00:15:16,498
I didn't know it would create
such an impact.
286
00:15:16,582 --> 00:15:17,958
♪ Oh, yeah... ♪
287
00:15:20,836 --> 00:15:23,505
[Enninful] I was a stylist at the time
with an agency
288
00:15:24,089 --> 00:15:27,468
and I knew all our books went out,
every stylist in London wanted that job.
289
00:15:27,551 --> 00:15:29,553
[Camilla Nickerson] I was just
a young sprite,
290
00:15:29,637 --> 00:15:30,888
didn't know how to do much.
291
00:15:30,971 --> 00:15:35,559
I was asked to go and have an interview
with this film director, David Fincher.
292
00:15:35,643 --> 00:15:37,853
I had to go and meet him
out at a film studio
293
00:15:37,937 --> 00:15:40,522
where he was storyboarding
the set for Alien.
294
00:15:41,398 --> 00:15:44,902
I went on not to get the job
and she got the job,
295
00:15:44,985 --> 00:15:47,237
and I was devastated.
296
00:15:47,321 --> 00:15:48,614
[laughs]
297
00:15:49,448 --> 00:15:53,285
I was just happy for Camilla
because Camilla and I go back a long way.
298
00:15:53,369 --> 00:15:55,663
A lot of people say,
"I met you when you were younger,
299
00:15:55,746 --> 00:15:58,248
"I met you..." I said, "No,
there's a few people that met me
300
00:15:58,332 --> 00:16:00,417
"when I was 14
and Camilla was one of them."
301
00:16:00,501 --> 00:16:02,127
She was a real talent.
302
00:16:02,211 --> 00:16:04,380
♪ And I guess it was enough for me... ♪
303
00:16:04,463 --> 00:16:07,424
I was really nervous
because then you've gotta do it.
304
00:16:07,508 --> 00:16:09,385
♪ ...the game is not the same
No way ♪
305
00:16:10,177 --> 00:16:11,762
♪ Think I'm gonna get me some happy... ♪
306
00:16:11,845 --> 00:16:16,058
David had a very clear idea
to see the women being themselves.
307
00:16:16,141 --> 00:16:18,936
♪ I think there's something
you should know... ♪
308
00:16:19,019 --> 00:16:21,146
[Nickerson] One thing that he wanted
was an enormous,
309
00:16:21,230 --> 00:16:23,357
long white sheet for Christy
310
00:16:23,440 --> 00:16:26,110
made out of a very particular Irish linen.
311
00:16:26,193 --> 00:16:30,364
And so all of my budget...
[laughing] just went on the sheet.
312
00:16:31,657 --> 00:16:33,701
♪ I just hope you understand ♪
313
00:16:33,784 --> 00:16:36,662
♪ Sometimes the clothes
do not make the man... ♪
314
00:16:36,745 --> 00:16:39,790
I still had to find the clothes
for the rest of the cast
315
00:16:39,873 --> 00:16:42,376
and then that pretty much
came from my wardrobe.
316
00:16:43,085 --> 00:16:45,838
My boyfriend's boots ended up
on Naomi's feet.
317
00:16:45,921 --> 00:16:48,882
Nev's boots? They were Nev's?
That doesn't surprise me.
318
00:16:48,966 --> 00:16:53,178
And this lovely mohair sweater was the one
that Linda pulled over her head.
319
00:16:53,262 --> 00:16:55,848
♪ All we have to see... ♪
320
00:16:55,931 --> 00:16:59,643
My God, it must've been
all smelly when she got that sweater back.
321
00:16:59,727 --> 00:17:03,147
That was a lot of hours in that sweater.
322
00:17:03,230 --> 00:17:05,190
♪ Freedom! ♪
323
00:17:05,274 --> 00:17:07,401
It was in a huge hangar.
324
00:17:07,484 --> 00:17:10,571
The girls were super nervous
and practising their lines.
325
00:17:10,654 --> 00:17:13,073
Naomi and Linda were like trying
to get it just right.
326
00:17:13,157 --> 00:17:16,076
This video was absolutely incredible.
327
00:17:16,160 --> 00:17:18,912
You look at it
and you have the goose bumps.
328
00:17:18,996 --> 00:17:21,915
I must've watched it
thousands and thousands of times
329
00:17:21,999 --> 00:17:25,252
because the girls looked gorgeous,
he was incredible,
330
00:17:25,335 --> 00:17:29,423
obviously, Linda in that video
was just like heaven.
331
00:17:30,007 --> 00:17:31,258
♪ Freedom! ♪
332
00:17:31,341 --> 00:17:35,137
At the time, I was the face of Chanel
and the advice was
333
00:17:35,220 --> 00:17:37,556
I could be jeopardising
my high-fashion position
334
00:17:37,639 --> 00:17:38,807
by doing a pop video.
335
00:17:38,891 --> 00:17:41,185
Then when I saw it I thought,
336
00:17:41,268 --> 00:17:43,187
"Hmmm. I should've done this."
[chuckles]
337
00:17:45,355 --> 00:17:48,984
[Nickerson] Later I got a phone call,
and I was very surprised
338
00:17:49,068 --> 00:17:51,195
because it was Anna Wintour on the phone.
339
00:17:51,278 --> 00:17:55,365
"Would you like a job at American Vogue?"
I just thought it was a bit of a joke.
340
00:17:55,449 --> 00:17:58,869
Is somebody pretending to be Anna?
You know, I was like, "Sure."
341
00:18:02,081 --> 00:18:05,209
[Enninful] That video was pretty much
in every household around the world.
342
00:18:06,168 --> 00:18:08,087
All of a sudden you knew who they were.
343
00:18:08,170 --> 00:18:11,131
Naomi, Linda, Christy, Cindy,
they didn't need second names.
344
00:18:15,094 --> 00:18:16,720
[reporter] Supermodels, who are they?
345
00:18:16,804 --> 00:18:19,640
Ask anybody in any shopping mall.
346
00:18:19,723 --> 00:18:21,767
-[reporter] This woman?
-That's Christy Turlington.
347
00:18:21,850 --> 00:18:23,811
Do you all know who this is?
348
00:18:23,894 --> 00:18:24,978
Linda Evangelista.
349
00:18:25,062 --> 00:18:26,605
Suddenly I felt famous.
350
00:18:27,689 --> 00:18:29,817
Something I had never felt before.
351
00:18:29,900 --> 00:18:33,195
I remember, in Milan,
352
00:18:33,278 --> 00:18:35,197
when we woke up to read
353
00:18:35,280 --> 00:18:38,617
what I had eaten for breakfast
the previous morning,
354
00:18:38,700 --> 00:18:42,454
I was like, "No, why would they care?
This is a joke." [laughs]
355
00:18:42,996 --> 00:18:46,625
And it just put us on another level,
that's for sure.
356
00:18:46,708 --> 00:18:48,502
For me, I loved Linda.
357
00:18:48,585 --> 00:18:52,089
I was completely Linda obsessed.
358
00:18:56,718 --> 00:18:58,846
[reporter] Are there any drawbacks
to being so beautiful?
359
00:18:59,972 --> 00:19:00,973
No.
360
00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:02,641
No.
361
00:19:03,433 --> 00:19:04,434
No.
362
00:19:04,518 --> 00:19:06,228
She was the reason why I cut my hair,
363
00:19:06,311 --> 00:19:09,940
she was the reason why I dyed my hair
lots of different colours.
364
00:19:14,319 --> 00:19:18,157
I remember I was in New York
and I went to Garren
365
00:19:18,240 --> 00:19:21,869
who was Linda's hairdresser,
so I was like,
366
00:19:21,952 --> 00:19:24,997
"Oh, my God! This is Linda's hairdresser
touching my hair."
367
00:19:25,080 --> 00:19:26,373
And he cut all my hair off.
368
00:19:27,666 --> 00:19:30,335
I was channelling my inner Linda.
369
00:19:31,336 --> 00:19:34,131
They attract almost
as much media attention as royalty.
370
00:19:34,214 --> 00:19:35,841
Naomi Campbell.
371
00:19:35,924 --> 00:19:37,509
They were giving interviews
372
00:19:37,593 --> 00:19:40,137
and they were becoming personalities
in their own right.
373
00:19:40,220 --> 00:19:42,723
It's nice to meet you.
I see you in all these magazines.
374
00:19:42,806 --> 00:19:47,186
So they weren't these silent,
removed people that you couldn't touch.
375
00:19:47,269 --> 00:19:50,189
They were the equivalent
of the biggest movie stars we have today.
376
00:19:50,272 --> 00:19:54,151
They had the licence
to do almost anything.
377
00:19:54,234 --> 00:19:57,070
The public became fascinated
by the supermodels.
378
00:20:01,867 --> 00:20:04,328
[Van Meter] It was in the summer of 1990,
379
00:20:04,411 --> 00:20:07,748
Anna sent me to write
about Linda and Christy.
380
00:20:09,166 --> 00:20:12,502
And at the time, I had written, like,
one other piece for Vogue.
381
00:20:15,130 --> 00:20:17,257
Linda was an hour late.
382
00:20:17,341 --> 00:20:23,805
And she was wearing, like...
kind of like a pale green miniskirt
383
00:20:23,889 --> 00:20:26,350
that was just as short
as it could possibly be.
384
00:20:26,433 --> 00:20:30,729
We drank vodka,
she smoked Marlboro Reds the whole time.
385
00:20:30,812 --> 00:20:33,941
She ordered two pieces of chocolate cake,
didn't eat any dinner.
386
00:20:34,024 --> 00:20:35,567
[laughs]
387
00:20:35,651 --> 00:20:38,070
I remember thinking, "Of course,
like, this is perfect.
388
00:20:38,153 --> 00:20:40,280
"You're a supermodel.
This is how they are, right?"
389
00:20:41,573 --> 00:20:43,867
I think I basically said,
"How much money do you make?"
390
00:20:43,951 --> 00:20:48,330
And she said, "We won't get out of bed
for less than $10,000 a day."
391
00:20:49,706 --> 00:20:51,833
One of those moments
where you slowly lean in
392
00:20:51,917 --> 00:20:53,835
to make sure the tape recorder's running.
393
00:20:55,337 --> 00:20:57,714
I knew right away
that's, like, the last line.
394
00:20:59,216 --> 00:21:04,221
I remember getting a call saying,
"Anna doesn't like the ending.
395
00:21:04,304 --> 00:21:06,515
"She thinks it makes them sound mean."
396
00:21:06,598 --> 00:21:09,101
I was embarrassed for her,
397
00:21:09,184 --> 00:21:11,728
that it would not reflect well on Linda
398
00:21:11,812 --> 00:21:14,606
who was so much a part of,
you know, our being,
399
00:21:14,690 --> 00:21:17,067
our world, our family.
400
00:21:17,150 --> 00:21:20,195
And I just put up a fight, I was like,
"You cannot cut this line."
401
00:21:22,698 --> 00:21:26,159
I just knew instinctively that it would
be the quote heard round the world.
402
00:21:28,328 --> 00:21:30,163
I had no idea that...
403
00:21:32,124 --> 00:21:34,001
so much attention would've been
brought to it.
404
00:21:38,422 --> 00:21:41,174
[Enninful] The world thought,
"My God. We were in a recession."
405
00:21:41,258 --> 00:21:42,801
I remember every day leaving the house
406
00:21:42,884 --> 00:21:47,014
and being so thankful
that I could at least earn £9,000 a year.
407
00:21:47,097 --> 00:21:51,018
Fellow models, such as Linda Evangelista
made some pretty shocking comments,
408
00:21:51,101 --> 00:21:54,396
"I won't get out of bed
for less than $10,000 a day."
409
00:21:54,479 --> 00:21:58,859
I think she said it to be funny,
but in print, it didn't read as funny.
410
00:21:58,942 --> 00:22:03,071
I think poor Linda
has regretted ever saying that.
411
00:22:03,155 --> 00:22:05,866
I don't wanna be known for that.
412
00:22:05,949 --> 00:22:08,660
I've done so much more
than just that quote,
413
00:22:08,744 --> 00:22:11,580
you know, and it's really sticking.
414
00:22:11,663 --> 00:22:14,958
She certainly got out of bed
for less than $10,000 for Vogue.
415
00:22:17,919 --> 00:22:22,257
[people chattering indistinctly]
416
00:22:22,341 --> 00:22:25,135
I think that the stories that fashion
had been telling
417
00:22:25,218 --> 00:22:28,138
had lost touch
with what people were feeling
418
00:22:28,221 --> 00:22:30,015
and that they were seeing,
that they were living.
419
00:22:30,974 --> 00:22:32,142
[Enninful] We weren't rich.
420
00:22:32,225 --> 00:22:35,562
We weren't going
into Sloane Street buying outfits,
421
00:22:35,645 --> 00:22:37,272
we were just trawling the markets.
422
00:22:38,273 --> 00:22:42,110
We really wanted magazines
to reflect the world we lived in.
423
00:22:43,487 --> 00:22:47,324
[Moss] I remember the photographer
Corinne Day kind of saying,
424
00:22:47,407 --> 00:22:50,660
"We're gonna change the world."
And I was just like,
425
00:22:50,744 --> 00:22:54,581
"With a fashion picture?"
But they kind of did.
426
00:22:59,586 --> 00:23:01,421
[Enninful] Corinne Day's
Third Summer of Love shoot
427
00:23:01,505 --> 00:23:03,590
with Kate Moss on the cover of The Face,
428
00:23:03,673 --> 00:23:06,051
with that huge smile, the wrinkled nose,
429
00:23:06,134 --> 00:23:09,054
that felt real to us.
430
00:23:09,137 --> 00:23:12,182
I remember seeing Kate in that picture
and I was just like...
431
00:23:13,600 --> 00:23:14,726
blown away.
432
00:23:15,727 --> 00:23:19,481
[Goodman] The Face magazine
was this small British magazine,
433
00:23:19,564 --> 00:23:23,026
but everybody noticed that cover
within the fashion industry.
434
00:23:23,110 --> 00:23:26,780
There was such authenticity
in Corinne's pictures that you felt
435
00:23:26,863 --> 00:23:28,824
these have to be the real deal.
436
00:23:28,907 --> 00:23:31,618
With the clothes
that we knew from the markets,
437
00:23:31,701 --> 00:23:35,622
with the fashion that we understood,
the little daisies in the hair,
438
00:23:35,705 --> 00:23:36,832
little leather strings,
439
00:23:38,166 --> 00:23:41,503
that headdress,
I mean, you wouldn't get away with it now.
440
00:23:41,586 --> 00:23:45,424
The reason I think that story
is such a strong, pivotal story
441
00:23:45,507 --> 00:23:46,967
is because it's not about fashion.
442
00:23:48,927 --> 00:23:51,513
You're watching a girl,
you're not looking at the clothes
443
00:23:51,596 --> 00:23:53,432
and that's a real change of direction.
444
00:23:54,808 --> 00:23:56,435
[Enninful] It was a rejection of fashion.
445
00:23:57,269 --> 00:23:58,979
Anti-fashion became fashion.
446
00:23:59,896 --> 00:24:01,857
[Moss] I didn't like
some of the pictures
447
00:24:01,940 --> 00:24:03,525
because that's not how I wanted to...
448
00:24:03,608 --> 00:24:06,361
like at, you know, 15,
I wanted to be glamorous
449
00:24:06,445 --> 00:24:09,489
and what they were showing
in the magazines at the time.
450
00:24:10,365 --> 00:24:14,494
The first Face shoot, horrible,
really awful.
451
00:24:14,578 --> 00:24:19,624
To me, fashion magazines
are all about unattainable flavour.
452
00:24:20,834 --> 00:24:22,002
It wasn't fashion.
453
00:24:22,085 --> 00:24:25,964
I mean, I think this was very difficult
for a lot of women.
454
00:24:26,047 --> 00:24:30,093
There was this kind of woman
with a certain shape,
455
00:24:30,177 --> 00:24:31,303
whose hair was done,
456
00:24:31,386 --> 00:24:33,388
whose makeup was done,
whose nails were done.
457
00:24:33,472 --> 00:24:37,058
And then all of a sudden comes Kate
saying, like, "You know what?
458
00:24:37,142 --> 00:24:41,688
"It's, like, a slip and no makeup,"
and it's, like, people were lost.
459
00:24:41,771 --> 00:24:44,524
Not young people,
but certainly those women
460
00:24:44,608 --> 00:24:46,485
who were used to going
to the beauty parlour
461
00:24:46,568 --> 00:24:48,945
and opening Vogue, they were lost.
462
00:24:49,029 --> 00:24:52,866
You know... [scoffs] as a New York girl,
that grew up on the Upper East Side
463
00:24:52,949 --> 00:24:55,660
and, you know, for me,
it was very shocking.
464
00:24:55,744 --> 00:25:00,665
When I saw Kate in those photographs,
I had no idea what she would become.
465
00:25:00,957 --> 00:25:03,502
[♪ pleasant music playing]
466
00:25:09,049 --> 00:25:13,386
The first time I met Kate,
I walked into The Face magazine
467
00:25:14,221 --> 00:25:19,935
and Kate was sort of walking towards me
and it was really...
468
00:25:20,018 --> 00:25:21,478
I'm saying this without exaggeration,
469
00:25:21,561 --> 00:25:23,897
it was really like one of those
cheesy scenes in a film
470
00:25:23,980 --> 00:25:25,690
where everything just went
into slow motion
471
00:25:25,774 --> 00:25:27,734
and angels came out and spoke to me.
472
00:25:27,817 --> 00:25:31,780
I'd never seen anyone
so staggeringly beautiful before.
473
00:25:31,863 --> 00:25:33,823
It literally, like, silenced me.
474
00:25:33,907 --> 00:25:35,325
It's the only time I've ever had that,
475
00:25:35,408 --> 00:25:38,787
which is surprising considering
the amount of actors and actresses
476
00:25:38,870 --> 00:25:41,665
and celebrities that I've photographed
over the years.
477
00:25:45,835 --> 00:25:49,422
It's interesting because Kate Moss
on the cover of The Face magazine
478
00:25:49,506 --> 00:25:52,968
did not turn her into a supermodel
right away.
479
00:25:53,051 --> 00:25:55,470
The fashion industry actually
wasn't ready for her.
480
00:25:57,514 --> 00:25:59,391
[Luchford] I took some Polaroids of her
481
00:25:59,474 --> 00:26:02,269
and I started taking them
to show designers in London
482
00:26:02,352 --> 00:26:04,729
and I couldn't get anyone interested.
483
00:26:04,813 --> 00:26:08,567
They still wanted to work with people
that had more of a sort of '80s aesthetic.
484
00:26:09,442 --> 00:26:11,778
At that point, I'd become friends with her
485
00:26:11,861 --> 00:26:15,365
and she was still travelling
back and forth from Croydon
486
00:26:15,448 --> 00:26:18,285
and she would borrow money
to get the train home, completely broke,
487
00:26:18,368 --> 00:26:21,288
picking up the odd editorial here
which you never got paid for
488
00:26:21,371 --> 00:26:23,415
or little advertising job there.
489
00:26:24,165 --> 00:26:28,253
And I remember her saying,
"I'm going to New York this weekend."
490
00:26:30,255 --> 00:26:32,215
-[engine whirring]
-[car horn beeping]
491
00:26:35,760 --> 00:26:38,930
Calvin Klein called me up, he said like,
492
00:26:39,014 --> 00:26:40,098
"Can we meet?"
493
00:26:40,181 --> 00:26:44,936
At the time, Calvin Klein had struggled
during the recession
494
00:26:45,020 --> 00:26:47,022
and it needed a rebrand.
495
00:26:47,105 --> 00:26:50,900
He said like, "I have like these jeans
that I've been doing for years.
496
00:26:52,777 --> 00:26:57,949
"Now I really want to change
and I need a logo.
497
00:26:58,033 --> 00:26:59,826
"Can you come up with something?"
498
00:26:59,909 --> 00:27:02,746
And then I went on to do the CK logo,
as you know.
499
00:27:05,206 --> 00:27:08,335
And then Calvin asked me to
do the jeans campaign,
500
00:27:08,418 --> 00:27:11,838
the Calvin Klein Jeans
and he put a picture on the table,
501
00:27:13,131 --> 00:27:15,550
he said like, "I want pictures like that."
502
00:27:16,259 --> 00:27:20,138
The girl was sitting down
and she was wearing a pair of jeans.
503
00:27:21,014 --> 00:27:22,223
It was Vanessa Paradis
504
00:27:22,307 --> 00:27:26,186
and he said, "I wanna do a campaign
with Vanessa Paradis, but topless."
505
00:27:29,898 --> 00:27:33,276
I mean, there's something in me
that I don't mind provoking a little bit.
506
00:27:33,360 --> 00:27:37,155
Right, I mean, I'm French,
so provocation is part of the game.
507
00:27:37,238 --> 00:27:38,323
[chuckles] Uh...
508
00:27:38,406 --> 00:27:43,328
So anything a little bit controversial,
I was like, "Yeah, let's do it."
509
00:27:43,411 --> 00:27:47,540
So we start, contact Vanessa Paradis.
Blah, blah, blah.
510
00:27:47,624 --> 00:27:50,543
"No, don't want to do it."
She didn't wanna do it.
511
00:27:50,627 --> 00:27:51,961
She just didn't want to do it.
512
00:27:52,045 --> 00:27:55,256
She didn't want to do Calvin Klein
because she was Chanel.
513
00:27:55,340 --> 00:27:59,302
Nevertheless, we need to find someone
that is like that and like...
514
00:28:01,054 --> 00:28:03,473
there I said like, "Well, Kate Moss.
515
00:28:04,724 --> 00:28:07,268
"You should meet that girl Kate Moss,
it'd be perfect."
516
00:28:09,062 --> 00:28:13,566
And Kate Moss, she looked very cute,
but she didn't look like a model.
517
00:28:13,650 --> 00:28:16,903
She was a bit short,
a little bit crooked legs,
518
00:28:16,986 --> 00:28:20,073
teeth were like a little bit eh,
like, not perfect.
519
00:28:22,158 --> 00:28:24,619
But you put her in front of a camera
and...
520
00:28:24,703 --> 00:28:26,871
[mimicking explosion] it explodes.
521
00:28:33,878 --> 00:28:38,425
So we organise a meeting
with Kate and Calvin.
522
00:28:39,801 --> 00:28:41,428
We're sitting in his office.
523
00:28:42,429 --> 00:28:45,473
And Kate Moss comes in,
and she starts talking
524
00:28:45,557 --> 00:28:47,308
with her English like, "Oh, no."
525
00:28:47,392 --> 00:28:50,937
Like lowering her face,
like super cute, like adorable.
526
00:28:51,020 --> 00:28:54,023
We sat her on the carpet,
just like the picture
527
00:28:54,107 --> 00:28:55,859
and Calvin was like, "Oh, my God!
528
00:28:56,860 --> 00:28:59,988
"It's perfect, it's perfect,
it's perfect."
529
00:29:00,071 --> 00:29:03,074
That was it. Kate Moss became
the new Calvin Klein girl.
530
00:29:07,078 --> 00:29:10,206
[Moss] I remember hearing
that Vanessa Paradis didn't wanna do it.
531
00:29:10,290 --> 00:29:13,418
Oh. Okay, well, I'll have it.
[chuckles]
532
00:29:13,501 --> 00:29:17,881
Calvin Klein signed her to a contract
and she flew home on Concorde
533
00:29:17,964 --> 00:29:22,260
with three million bucks in her pocket
and it was like, "Fuck, this is awesome."
534
00:29:22,343 --> 00:29:23,720
[chuckles]
535
00:29:23,803 --> 00:29:27,474
So it was really like a sort of
transformation that took place in a week.
536
00:29:28,808 --> 00:29:31,936
Calvin was the one
that saw the power of Kate
537
00:29:32,020 --> 00:29:34,606
before anybody else,
certainly before any...
538
00:29:34,689 --> 00:29:37,192
Maybe others, people at Vogue,
but I certainly didn't see it.
539
00:29:38,485 --> 00:29:40,987
[Moss] The timing was everything.
540
00:29:41,070 --> 00:29:45,784
A year before or a year later,
it wouldn't have happened.
541
00:29:45,867 --> 00:29:48,161
The first shoot was a lot of singles
542
00:29:48,244 --> 00:29:50,580
with the photographer,
Patrick Demarchelier,
543
00:29:50,663 --> 00:29:53,166
but then I did my first big commercial.
544
00:29:53,249 --> 00:29:55,710
I was really nervous.
545
00:29:55,794 --> 00:30:02,509
It brought together this unknown model
with this notoriously famous rap star.
546
00:30:03,802 --> 00:30:05,512
[reporter] Do you know this face?
547
00:30:06,554 --> 00:30:09,933
Okay, forget about the face,
do you know the rest of him?
548
00:30:10,016 --> 00:30:11,184
[photographer] This is perfect.
549
00:30:11,267 --> 00:30:12,685
[reporter] It's Marky Mark.
550
00:30:13,478 --> 00:30:15,647
Marky Mark at the time, Mark Wahlberg,
551
00:30:15,730 --> 00:30:19,108
he's an Oscar-nominated actor these days,
but back then
552
00:30:19,192 --> 00:30:23,822
was one of the biggest hip-hop stars
and he was sort of loved by men, women.
553
00:30:24,906 --> 00:30:27,951
And he was famous
for having his pants on show.
554
00:30:28,034 --> 00:30:32,080
Shout goes out to my man Calvin Klein.
Good lookin' out for the drawers.
555
00:30:32,163 --> 00:30:37,961
When I saw that advertising,
his remarkable body was certainly awesome.
556
00:30:38,545 --> 00:30:40,129
[Enninful] You caught them at a moment.
557
00:30:40,213 --> 00:30:42,382
It was the first time a hip-hop star,
558
00:30:42,465 --> 00:30:45,927
or pretty much any music star
had fronted a high-fashion campaign.
559
00:30:46,803 --> 00:30:47,804
Ooh. She got freckles.
560
00:30:47,887 --> 00:30:49,180
[mimicking motorcycle]
561
00:30:49,264 --> 00:30:50,640
Next question.
562
00:30:51,224 --> 00:30:53,142
[Moss] It was quite overwhelming.
563
00:30:53,226 --> 00:30:56,896
I was 18, you know,
he was a big superstar rapper
564
00:30:56,980 --> 00:31:00,525
and I still felt like a, you know,
just a girl from Croydon.
565
00:31:00,608 --> 00:31:01,901
They asked me to be topless,
566
00:31:01,985 --> 00:31:05,572
it was just a lot of people on set,
a lot of men.
567
00:31:06,155 --> 00:31:07,490
I did feel vulnerable.
568
00:31:08,491 --> 00:31:11,744
Now that could definitely
come between me and my Calvins.
569
00:31:11,828 --> 00:31:13,621
Do you have Calvin Klein underwear on?
570
00:31:14,664 --> 00:31:17,292
That advert premiered
on the music channel MTV
571
00:31:17,375 --> 00:31:20,712
in every household,
pretty much all over the world.
572
00:31:20,795 --> 00:31:21,963
Calvin's clever.
573
00:31:22,046 --> 00:31:25,258
He had an instinct
about what young people wanted to see.
574
00:31:25,341 --> 00:31:27,427
-[sirens wailing in the distance]
-[car horn beeping]
575
00:31:27,510 --> 00:31:31,097
[Parker] I remember Calvin Klein ads
all over the buses,
576
00:31:31,681 --> 00:31:33,349
all over Times Square.
577
00:31:33,433 --> 00:31:35,560
You know, I lined up
for my Calvin Klein underwear
578
00:31:35,643 --> 00:31:37,896
at Bloomingdales like everybody else.
The minute they dropped,
579
00:31:37,979 --> 00:31:41,941
I was there 7:00 in the morning
at Bloomingdales on 59th and Lex.
580
00:31:42,025 --> 00:31:44,235
You know,
these people were influencing us.
581
00:31:44,319 --> 00:31:48,031
That campaign turned around the fortunes
for Calvin Klein.
582
00:31:48,114 --> 00:31:49,490
It went crazy.
583
00:31:49,574 --> 00:31:53,202
People went crazy for Marky Mark
and crazy for Kate Moss.
584
00:31:55,705 --> 00:31:58,124
All the photographers wanted Kate,
Kate, Kate, Kate, Kate.
585
00:31:59,459 --> 00:32:00,919
They all wanted to work with her.
586
00:32:01,753 --> 00:32:06,174
She was anti-supermodel, anti-fashion
587
00:32:06,257 --> 00:32:11,054
and she was 100% real,
and 100% the '90s.
588
00:32:12,972 --> 00:32:15,808
[John Galliano] She was... is gorgeous.
589
00:32:15,892 --> 00:32:19,604
We didn't really worry
that she wasn't maybe as tall
590
00:32:19,687 --> 00:32:21,981
as the other girls
or maybe not this or that.
591
00:32:22,065 --> 00:32:24,984
Kate was Kate,
you booked Kate because it was Kate.
592
00:32:25,068 --> 00:32:27,654
She had a very different kind of beauty
593
00:32:27,737 --> 00:32:32,533
and it altered our perception
of what was beautiful.
594
00:32:32,617 --> 00:32:37,121
Models did not look like Kate Moss
before Kate Moss.
595
00:32:38,414 --> 00:32:41,668
[Enninful] I remember thinking,
"My God, fashion's really changed."
596
00:32:41,751 --> 00:32:45,213
Kate ushered in a whole new body shape
and a new kind of beauty.
597
00:32:46,547 --> 00:32:50,635
[reporter] Among the new names is Shalom,
Kristen McMenamy
598
00:32:50,718 --> 00:32:53,012
and there's 19-year-old Amber Valletta.
599
00:32:53,096 --> 00:32:57,684
We represented raw beauty,
you know, edgy and different.
600
00:32:57,767 --> 00:33:00,561
There was something sort of a little off.
601
00:33:00,645 --> 00:33:01,771
[laughs]
602
00:33:01,854 --> 00:33:03,523
Me, I've got a giant forehead.
603
00:33:04,857 --> 00:33:07,694
Kate's got the wide-set eyes.
604
00:33:07,777 --> 00:33:11,739
She had crooked teeth, quite fangy really.
605
00:33:11,823 --> 00:33:12,865
Sorry, Kate.
606
00:33:13,950 --> 00:33:19,455
Before Kate, I was sick of trying
to be a pretty girl
607
00:33:20,289 --> 00:33:22,250
because I felt almost like a fake.
608
00:33:22,834 --> 00:33:27,005
And then the hair got chopped,
I shaved my eyebrows off.
609
00:33:27,088 --> 00:33:31,259
That's when it started to really take off.
610
00:33:33,761 --> 00:33:38,349
The change came like a train
coming out of nowhere in the dark.
611
00:33:41,102 --> 00:33:44,313
All of the supermodels
and all of the supermodels of tomorrow...
612
00:33:44,397 --> 00:33:45,982
I was of tomorrow,
613
00:33:46,065 --> 00:33:47,650
we weren't getting booked any more.
614
00:33:47,734 --> 00:33:49,694
Some blamed Kate, you know,
615
00:33:49,777 --> 00:33:53,781
for sort of changing essentially
what modelling was.
616
00:33:55,950 --> 00:34:00,121
The other girls could feel that Kate
was the new thing.
617
00:34:00,913 --> 00:34:01,998
Um...
618
00:34:02,999 --> 00:34:04,083
For sure.
619
00:34:04,792 --> 00:34:08,796
Some expressed their feelings too,
but I'll let Kate tell you those stories.
620
00:34:08,880 --> 00:34:09,881
[laughs]
621
00:34:09,964 --> 00:34:11,424
Oh, no.
622
00:34:11,507 --> 00:34:13,217
[laughs]
623
00:34:13,301 --> 00:34:15,053
I'm mentioning no names.
624
00:34:15,136 --> 00:34:18,014
Yeah, there was definitely a bit of like,
625
00:34:18,097 --> 00:34:20,349
"She's come along,
what's gonna happen to us?"
626
00:34:20,433 --> 00:34:21,893
They knew.
627
00:34:21,976 --> 00:34:24,979
I remember being backstage
at a fashion show in New York City
628
00:34:25,063 --> 00:34:26,689
and all the supers were like,
629
00:34:26,773 --> 00:34:30,068
"Oh, my God, Calvin didn't book any of us.
Calvin didn't book any of us."
630
00:34:30,151 --> 00:34:33,279
I remember the panic
on all of those supermodels' faces.
631
00:34:33,362 --> 00:34:34,947
If you have a hockey team,
632
00:34:35,948 --> 00:34:39,744
you don't retire the whole team
all at once.
633
00:34:39,827 --> 00:34:41,829
You bring in rookies one at a time.
634
00:34:41,913 --> 00:34:44,457
I mean, I'm...
635
00:34:44,540 --> 00:34:48,044
It's really nice to see these new girls.
636
00:34:48,628 --> 00:34:53,633
My first season at the shows,
I was intimidated.
637
00:34:53,716 --> 00:34:54,884
Not now, please.
638
00:34:56,052 --> 00:34:58,012
They just seemed giants to me
639
00:34:58,096 --> 00:35:02,016
and I was like scrawny
and, you know, quite shy.
640
00:35:02,100 --> 00:35:03,851
They're just more sophisticated.
641
00:35:03,935 --> 00:35:07,188
They're women and I'm not really
a woman yet, I don't think.
642
00:35:08,022 --> 00:35:10,441
But then Christy and Naomi
took me under their wing,
643
00:35:10,525 --> 00:35:13,486
so from that moment on, I was fine.
644
00:35:13,569 --> 00:35:14,821
[people chattering indistinctly]
645
00:35:16,489 --> 00:35:20,493
What was kind of clever actually
was how Christy Turlington
646
00:35:20,576 --> 00:35:23,579
and Linda Evangelista decided
they didn't wanna be left out of it,
647
00:35:23,663 --> 00:35:25,123
and changed their haircut,
648
00:35:25,206 --> 00:35:27,041
and changed their look,
649
00:35:27,125 --> 00:35:30,378
and suddenly boom,
they were being photographed by Dave Sims
650
00:35:30,461 --> 00:35:31,754
and Corinne Day,
and they were in it.
651
00:35:34,173 --> 00:35:36,676
[people chattering indistinctly]
652
00:35:38,970 --> 00:35:42,223
I remember thinking
it was a very kind of exciting time,
653
00:35:42,306 --> 00:35:45,393
seeing those new faces
coming into the scene,
654
00:35:45,476 --> 00:35:49,522
but in those very early '90s,
we were losing a lot of people too.
655
00:35:49,605 --> 00:35:51,941
[♪ melancholy music playing]
656
00:35:56,279 --> 00:35:58,781
[Wintour] The fashion community
was one of the hardest hit,
657
00:35:58,865 --> 00:36:02,326
so many people that we cared deeply about
were being affected.
658
00:36:02,410 --> 00:36:04,662
You'd be at a dinner party,
659
00:36:04,745 --> 00:36:08,833
the light would catch a friend's face
just a certain way.
660
00:36:08,916 --> 00:36:10,251
[gasps]
661
00:36:11,252 --> 00:36:12,378
And you knew.
662
00:36:12,962 --> 00:36:17,842
It's hard to think about this now,
but there really was trepidation
663
00:36:17,925 --> 00:36:21,304
about talking about HIV
or the illness itself.
664
00:36:21,387 --> 00:36:23,055
It was just not discussed.
665
00:36:23,139 --> 00:36:27,685
I become very inarticulate
when this subject comes up,
666
00:36:27,768 --> 00:36:32,023
but, um, Robert, who was my partner,
667
00:36:32,106 --> 00:36:33,858
we were together
for nine and a half years,
668
00:36:33,941 --> 00:36:35,109
he died of AIDS.
669
00:36:35,693 --> 00:36:38,029
My boyfriend died of AIDS.
670
00:36:38,112 --> 00:36:41,407
You know,
out of my ten best college friends,
671
00:36:41,490 --> 00:36:44,827
only seven, well, seven died,
three are alive.
672
00:36:44,911 --> 00:36:49,999
I had a, you know, a really close friend
called Alan Buxbaum whom I...
673
00:36:51,417 --> 00:36:54,212
Was one of the first people I met
when I first moved to New York.
674
00:36:54,295 --> 00:36:58,132
We spent a lot of time... with him.
675
00:36:58,216 --> 00:37:01,844
I had just had my first child
and he told my husband,
676
00:37:03,179 --> 00:37:05,473
"My biggest regret
is I won't see him grow up."
677
00:37:08,392 --> 00:37:10,770
I mean, it's just...
678
00:37:11,979 --> 00:37:17,652
I just don't even have words to describe
how horribly sad and terrifying it was.
679
00:37:19,320 --> 00:37:24,408
We'd lost so many friends at that point,
and people still weren't talking about it.
680
00:37:24,492 --> 00:37:27,787
I think that Anna felt
681
00:37:27,870 --> 00:37:32,041
the fashion industry
hadn't done enough, honestly.
682
00:37:32,124 --> 00:37:36,921
The most urgent need at the time,
beyond raising the money,
683
00:37:37,004 --> 00:37:39,590
was to make people aware
684
00:37:39,674 --> 00:37:41,884
that the whole world
was being affected by this.
685
00:37:42,802 --> 00:37:47,265
So it was not a question
of should we do this,
686
00:37:47,348 --> 00:37:50,768
it's just a question
of how should we do it, how quickly,
687
00:37:50,851 --> 00:37:54,939
how can we make a statement
that will reach
688
00:37:55,022 --> 00:37:58,276
not only our community but the world?
689
00:37:59,235 --> 00:38:02,071
It may be one of the largest
single charity events ever,
690
00:38:02,154 --> 00:38:04,282
Seventh Avenue is going on sale tonight,
691
00:38:04,365 --> 00:38:07,368
selling $20 million worth
of retail designer goods
692
00:38:07,451 --> 00:38:09,495
that will go for a fraction of that price,
693
00:38:09,578 --> 00:38:11,539
all the money will go
towards the battle to fight AIDS.
694
00:38:11,622 --> 00:38:15,001
Listen, when Anna wants to do something,
Anna does it
695
00:38:15,084 --> 00:38:21,299
and Anna does it probably in the biggest,
most important, creative way.
696
00:38:21,382 --> 00:38:22,758
And it was amazing.
697
00:38:24,260 --> 00:38:27,555
[reporter] Over 100 designers
raided their showrooms,
698
00:38:27,638 --> 00:38:32,727
pouring forth a cornucopia of couture
at below wholesale prices.
699
00:38:34,103 --> 00:38:39,358
The idea was to create a street fair
where designers all came
700
00:38:39,442 --> 00:38:41,027
and manned their booths.
701
00:38:41,110 --> 00:38:43,154
This looks great,
but we don't have more variety.
702
00:38:43,237 --> 00:38:45,031
So if you were at the Calvin Klein booth,
703
00:38:45,114 --> 00:38:48,075
Calvin was there
or if you were at the Vogue booth,
704
00:38:48,159 --> 00:38:50,036
I and many other editors were there.
705
00:38:50,119 --> 00:38:53,080
She had this idea
to get everybody together.
706
00:38:53,164 --> 00:38:55,374
You don't say no to Anna.
707
00:38:55,458 --> 00:38:57,001
[laughing]
708
00:38:57,084 --> 00:39:00,880
The word "no" does not exist
in Anna's vocabulary.
709
00:39:00,963 --> 00:39:03,966
There are 148 American designers
here represented.
710
00:39:04,050 --> 00:39:08,512
It's very important to the whole industry
and I'm part of it, so I wanna do my part.
711
00:39:08,596 --> 00:39:10,097
This is really exciting
712
00:39:10,181 --> 00:39:13,267
and I just hope
everyone's going to shop like crazy.
713
00:39:13,351 --> 00:39:15,061
[Michael Kors] The lines were huge,
714
00:39:15,144 --> 00:39:18,230
clothes were flying everywhere.
There was just this buzz.
715
00:39:19,523 --> 00:39:22,568
[Enninful] Seventh on Sale,
it was such a statement
716
00:39:22,651 --> 00:39:25,279
and it really started
to shine a light on HIV.
717
00:39:25,363 --> 00:39:27,823
And then people thought
maybe it's okay to talk about it.
718
00:39:27,907 --> 00:39:32,411
You know, if sometimes in fashion,
you feel what you do
719
00:39:32,495 --> 00:39:34,747
can feel light or frothy...
720
00:39:35,289 --> 00:39:38,709
And in this instance,
we thought, "Wow."
721
00:39:38,793 --> 00:39:41,504
What we do actually can make a difference.
722
00:39:41,587 --> 00:39:45,549
We've already raised well over $1 million
and we haven't sold one frock yet,
723
00:39:45,633 --> 00:39:47,551
so you should ask us again
on Monday morning,
724
00:39:47,635 --> 00:39:49,220
but we're hoping for a big figure.
725
00:39:50,721 --> 00:39:54,517
Seventh on Sale, as small as it was,
726
00:39:55,518 --> 00:39:57,478
really changed the conversation.
727
00:39:57,561 --> 00:40:02,024
I think when I look back at my career,
honestly, I have to say, it's...
728
00:40:02,942 --> 00:40:05,528
it's the initiative
that I am the proudest of.
729
00:40:05,611 --> 00:40:09,407
She had not actually been on the scene
that long at Vogue,
730
00:40:09,490 --> 00:40:14,120
but we all realised what a huge force
Anna and Vogue could be.
731
00:40:14,912 --> 00:40:18,999
-[sirens wailing in distance]
-[car horn beeping]
732
00:40:19,083 --> 00:40:20,709
I tell you what I loved in February was...
733
00:40:20,793 --> 00:40:22,711
I remember sitting
in lots of meetings saying,
734
00:40:22,795 --> 00:40:25,756
"Where is the next generation
of new designers
735
00:40:25,840 --> 00:40:27,299
"that Vogue should be supporting?"
736
00:40:29,009 --> 00:40:33,764
We need people to inspire us,
not just people that are churning it out.
737
00:40:35,307 --> 00:40:38,269
Vogue had this enormous power
with the designers
738
00:40:38,352 --> 00:40:42,022
because, essentially,
Vogue could make or break them.
739
00:40:42,106 --> 00:40:44,483
I mean, more often than not,
they made them.
740
00:40:45,025 --> 00:40:47,778
[machine whirring]
741
00:40:47,862 --> 00:40:49,572
[Ferguson] Before the Internet
or social media,
742
00:40:49,655 --> 00:40:51,740
that is where
you'd get your information from.
743
00:40:51,824 --> 00:40:54,869
If the leader was telling you
that this is good,
744
00:40:54,952 --> 00:40:56,579
it got everybody looking at you.
745
00:40:56,662 --> 00:40:58,372
[machine whirring]
746
00:40:58,456 --> 00:41:01,584
Vogue was very important
for the designers, you know,
747
00:41:01,667 --> 00:41:04,378
because Vogue was like a dictator.
748
00:41:04,462 --> 00:41:07,298
If you were not in Vogue,
meaning you were like...
749
00:41:07,381 --> 00:41:08,591
[mimicking snarls]
750
00:41:08,674 --> 00:41:11,677
That was the power of Vogue,
which of course was Anna Wintour.
751
00:41:14,472 --> 00:41:17,600
We were at a moment where everybody
was walking up and down,
752
00:41:17,683 --> 00:41:20,728
very uniform, kind of boring.
I mean it was...
753
00:41:20,811 --> 00:41:23,564
Those were the moments that I was happiest
to have my dark glasses
754
00:41:23,647 --> 00:41:25,149
because, you know, it was just dull.
755
00:41:29,361 --> 00:41:31,780
[Wintour] I think André,
our creative director,
756
00:41:31,864 --> 00:41:35,326
and Hamish kept saying to me,
"You really need to get to know
757
00:41:35,409 --> 00:41:38,704
"and watch what John Galliano
is doing in Paris."
758
00:41:38,787 --> 00:41:40,664
[people chattering indistinctly]
759
00:41:42,333 --> 00:41:47,671
[Wintour] You could already see
that theatricality and that storytelling.
760
00:41:48,756 --> 00:41:51,467
[Galliano] Yes, Kate! Go, go, yes!
761
00:41:51,550 --> 00:41:53,385
Wicked! Wicked!
762
00:41:53,469 --> 00:41:55,304
[Wintour] There was always a story there.
763
00:41:56,180 --> 00:42:00,392
A fleeing heiress running
from a vengeful suitor
764
00:42:01,810 --> 00:42:03,854
and you felt that emotion
and that magic
765
00:42:03,938 --> 00:42:05,814
on the runway and in the clothes.
766
00:42:06,649 --> 00:42:10,903
I intrinsically understood
that John was one of those designers
767
00:42:10,986 --> 00:42:13,280
that was just gonna change everything.
768
00:42:15,282 --> 00:42:17,576
[Bowles] Those dresses were exquisite,
769
00:42:17,660 --> 00:42:21,622
but they weren't wearable
and they were so expensive to make,
770
00:42:21,705 --> 00:42:25,000
he didn't have any money left
to make another collection.
771
00:42:25,084 --> 00:42:29,630
And I think lots of people felt
he wasn't going to survive.
772
00:42:30,589 --> 00:42:33,384
[♪ enthralling music playing]
773
00:42:33,467 --> 00:42:35,469
[car horn beeping]
774
00:42:37,721 --> 00:42:39,848
[Galliano] I was living hand to mouth,
775
00:42:39,932 --> 00:42:42,643
eating baked beans off
little Bunsen burners,
776
00:42:43,227 --> 00:42:45,479
living on friends' floors
and, you know,
777
00:42:45,563 --> 00:42:47,773
whoever would be kind enough to feed us.
778
00:42:48,274 --> 00:42:51,860
[Wintour] I mean, I was very focused
on trying to help him,
779
00:42:51,944 --> 00:42:54,488
lending John or rather giving John money
780
00:42:54,572 --> 00:42:57,866
just so he could eat
or have a cab ride home.
781
00:42:57,950 --> 00:43:01,203
Anna had said,
"You just can't miss another season, John,
782
00:43:01,287 --> 00:43:04,665
"you've gotta get your act together,
you can't, you know, you can't."
783
00:43:04,748 --> 00:43:06,208
And this was like, I don't know,
784
00:43:06,292 --> 00:43:09,253
four or five weeks
before Paris Fashion Week,
785
00:43:10,087 --> 00:43:12,840
but I had no money,
I had no way of producing stuff.
786
00:43:12,923 --> 00:43:15,342
So then Anna and André kicked in.
787
00:43:16,010 --> 00:43:17,928
It was kind of extraordinary.
788
00:43:21,473 --> 00:43:25,811
Anna published a 12-page spread
featuring his last collection
789
00:43:26,604 --> 00:43:30,441
shot by the fabulous Steven Meisel
and Ellen von Unwerth.
790
00:43:31,483 --> 00:43:33,819
Even though it wasn't available
to buy anywhere.
791
00:43:35,029 --> 00:43:36,405
I mean, I didn't have a business.
792
00:43:36,488 --> 00:43:39,033
I didn't have an atelier,
but I had 12 pages in that Vogue.
793
00:43:40,284 --> 00:43:43,037
[Bowles] And that was really
a turning point.
794
00:43:43,120 --> 00:43:47,249
From then on,
John's future was made in fact.
795
00:43:48,250 --> 00:43:52,588
I just wanted to help the wider world
to understand his genius.
796
00:43:53,881 --> 00:43:56,216
[Bowles] And then
Anna's creative director,
797
00:43:56,300 --> 00:44:00,929
André Leon Talley, took it out to
a meeting with a potential investor.
798
00:44:02,097 --> 00:44:05,851
And then I just remember André
pulled out the American Vogue.
799
00:44:05,934 --> 00:44:09,730
"This is what American Vogue thinks
of John Galliano. What are you doing?"
800
00:44:10,397 --> 00:44:12,191
[laughs]
801
00:44:14,026 --> 00:44:16,236
I mean, I must say it's rather clever,
802
00:44:16,820 --> 00:44:19,156
with Vogue's seal of approval,
803
00:44:19,823 --> 00:44:22,910
he had just enough money
to stage his show.
804
00:44:24,119 --> 00:44:25,579
But I think it was like three weeks
805
00:44:25,663 --> 00:44:28,248
before the Paris Fashion Week deadline.
806
00:44:28,332 --> 00:44:30,042
How am I gonna pull this off?
807
00:44:30,125 --> 00:44:33,671
I threw myself into someone's kitchen
and kitchen table
808
00:44:33,754 --> 00:44:36,131
and started, you know,
cutting bias things
809
00:44:36,215 --> 00:44:38,926
and the only fabric we could buy
had to be off the shelf.
810
00:44:39,009 --> 00:44:41,095
And it was black, satin black crepe.
811
00:44:41,178 --> 00:44:43,097
How do I make that look like more?
812
00:44:43,180 --> 00:44:45,557
So I started using the wrong side
and the right side,
813
00:44:45,641 --> 00:44:47,935
and putting the bias together
like a jigsaw,
814
00:44:48,018 --> 00:44:50,729
calling in the favours of the girls.
815
00:44:50,813 --> 00:44:53,273
I wanted to be part of that show.
816
00:44:53,357 --> 00:44:57,361
I knew this man one day,
when he could afford to pay us, he would.
817
00:44:57,444 --> 00:44:58,987
-Hey.
-Hello.
818
00:44:59,697 --> 00:45:02,908
[Moss] I wanted to do it,
it was the make-or-break show.
819
00:45:05,202 --> 00:45:07,454
We all had just one outfit.
820
00:45:07,538 --> 00:45:09,998
Before you went on,
he would give you your character.
821
00:45:10,082 --> 00:45:13,794
You would arrive and you'd be like,
"Okay, let's hear it." Right?
822
00:45:15,129 --> 00:45:17,506
[Moss] It really revs up everything.
823
00:45:18,298 --> 00:45:22,010
Many directions were given to Kate.
824
00:45:22,094 --> 00:45:25,931
"I dunno that I can say it,
but you're a girl from Croydon
825
00:45:26,014 --> 00:45:29,143
"and you haven't had a shag for ages,
and you really wanna get fucked."
826
00:45:29,226 --> 00:45:30,227
Boom!
827
00:45:33,981 --> 00:45:35,524
[♪ opera music playing]
828
00:45:35,607 --> 00:45:39,236
I remember being there, and... oh, my God.
829
00:45:40,654 --> 00:45:44,241
It was just such excitement.
830
00:45:45,909 --> 00:45:49,246
[Moss] Each and every girl
felt so amazing.
831
00:45:51,123 --> 00:45:53,792
[Campbell] I don't know how to describe
this feeling to you,
832
00:45:54,877 --> 00:45:56,879
but the high that I felt.
833
00:45:56,962 --> 00:45:59,798
Like, it was just so beautifully done.
834
00:46:01,550 --> 00:46:04,803
[Galliano] Because you'd seen those girls,
Kate, Linda and Naomi,
835
00:46:04,887 --> 00:46:06,930
all of them on print,
836
00:46:07,514 --> 00:46:10,726
but you were able to see them
walking past you,
837
00:46:10,809 --> 00:46:13,520
and you could hear the rustle
of the silks and the taffetas
838
00:46:13,604 --> 00:46:16,064
and smell the scent of the gin
on their breath.
839
00:46:16,648 --> 00:46:18,192
And it was the first time.
840
00:46:21,069 --> 00:46:23,030
[Wintour] I remember sitting there
watching,
841
00:46:23,113 --> 00:46:25,407
it was probably 25 looks.
842
00:46:26,408 --> 00:46:29,411
Very few looks, all in black
because that's all he could afford.
843
00:46:31,079 --> 00:46:33,290
That is a show I will always remember.
844
00:46:34,708 --> 00:46:39,046
This is a moment that was going
to change how we all dressed.
845
00:46:40,172 --> 00:46:44,551
He brought a level of creativity
and imagination
846
00:46:45,719 --> 00:46:48,555
and theatricality
that we hadn't seen before.
847
00:46:48,639 --> 00:46:50,933
I mean,
many people have copied that since,
848
00:46:51,016 --> 00:46:52,309
but he was certainly the first.
849
00:46:52,392 --> 00:46:56,146
[clapping]
850
00:46:58,565 --> 00:47:01,652
[Galliano] I think, on that day,
I proved my mettle
851
00:47:01,735 --> 00:47:04,822
and I proved that I could do it
and I was a couturier.
852
00:47:04,905 --> 00:47:07,074
[clapping]
853
00:47:07,157 --> 00:47:10,536
And I think the word spread in Paris
that, you know,
854
00:47:10,619 --> 00:47:14,373
this punk in the Bastille was, you know,
getting a lot of clients.
855
00:47:14,456 --> 00:47:15,499
[laughs]
856
00:47:16,291 --> 00:47:20,462
[Bowles] Within a year, John had become
the head at Givenchy,
857
00:47:20,546 --> 00:47:24,341
the first British person
to lead a French couture house.
858
00:47:25,175 --> 00:47:30,055
And I think it was a lot to do
with Anna's backing of him, I am sure.
859
00:47:32,307 --> 00:47:35,352
Listen, we've placed some bets,
they haven't always been right.
860
00:47:35,435 --> 00:47:39,565
But I always think of Vogue as having
a deep responsibility
861
00:47:39,648 --> 00:47:44,945
to raise the profile of whatever
the talent of a generation may be.
862
00:47:45,529 --> 00:47:49,783
[Enninful] The '90s were underway
and Vogue was at the heart of everything.
863
00:47:49,867 --> 00:47:51,451
It was really amazing to watch.
864
00:47:52,286 --> 00:47:55,706
But some of the new generation
were about to shock the establishment.
865
00:47:58,750 --> 00:48:03,839
We definitely had like this attitude,
messy hair and baggy pants.
866
00:48:04,548 --> 00:48:07,050
Anna was appalled, frankly.
867
00:48:07,593 --> 00:48:09,094
[cheering]
868
00:48:09,177 --> 00:48:12,139
All of our parents were like,
"What are you guys doing?"
869
00:48:12,222 --> 00:48:15,100
I remember being completely stunned.
870
00:48:15,183 --> 00:48:16,643
[Goodman] This is gonna become a trend,
871
00:48:16,727 --> 00:48:19,021
this is gonna be something
that we're gonna endorse?
872
00:48:19,104 --> 00:48:21,189
It was awful.
873
00:48:21,273 --> 00:48:23,483
It was like, "Jesus, what has happened?"
874
00:48:24,276 --> 00:48:26,320
All of a sudden,
we were seen as careless,
875
00:48:26,403 --> 00:48:28,155
we were seen as radical.
876
00:48:28,238 --> 00:48:31,783
"No sex, we are British."
It's not the reality, you know.
877
00:48:31,867 --> 00:48:33,410
London was alive.
878
00:48:33,994 --> 00:48:37,331
We were all just in the same room
at the same time.
879
00:48:37,414 --> 00:48:39,833
[Enninful] Stella McCartney, Lee McQueen.
880
00:48:39,917 --> 00:48:42,961
I've always been a bit of a rebel
with a cause.
881
00:48:43,045 --> 00:48:44,671
[man] We are packed wall to wall!
882
00:48:44,755 --> 00:48:47,674
I say to him,
"Lee, Anna Wintour's outside the door
883
00:48:47,758 --> 00:48:51,053
"with André Leon Talley and
Grace Coddington and she can't get in."
884
00:48:51,136 --> 00:48:52,429
And he was like, "Oh, fuck 'em."
885
00:48:52,512 --> 00:48:54,348
[♪ theme music playing]
71251
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