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1
00:00:01,001 --> 00:00:03,545
Even though it's my day off,
I'm happy to call, "Action."
2
00:00:03,628 --> 00:00:07,048
Okay, and standing by, we're gonna
shoot now, so we need to settle.
3
00:00:07,132 --> 00:00:08,425
Action.
4
00:00:08,508 --> 00:00:10,427
[♪ guitar music playing]
5
00:00:16,891 --> 00:00:20,145
[Edward Enninful] Rarely in fashion
can you pinpoint a specific moment
6
00:00:20,228 --> 00:00:22,731
that changed the direction
of fashion history.
7
00:00:23,565 --> 00:00:26,776
But the London premiere
of one of the classic '90s films,
8
00:00:26,860 --> 00:00:30,071
Four Weddings and a Funeral,
it was a real pivotal moment.
9
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[reporter] The Odeon Leicester Square
has been transformed
10
00:00:34,909 --> 00:00:39,789
for the premiere of the film everybody
in the whole world is talking about,
11
00:00:39,873 --> 00:00:41,291
Four Weddings and a Funeral.
12
00:00:44,169 --> 00:00:47,964
I remember seeing this young actress
called Liz Hurley,
13
00:00:48,673 --> 00:00:50,508
who, to be honest, I'd never heard of.
14
00:00:51,134 --> 00:00:53,803
I went with my then boyfriend, Hugh,
who was in it.
15
00:00:53,887 --> 00:00:57,265
It was the first time there'd been
a big British film for a really long time.
16
00:00:59,100 --> 00:01:03,354
I was just about a working actress,
pretty much living hand-to-mouth.
17
00:01:03,855 --> 00:01:06,816
I'd been mentioned in the local paper,
so I thought I was, sort of,
18
00:01:06,900 --> 00:01:09,527
you know, zinging,
but obviously I wasn't, really.
19
00:01:12,739 --> 00:01:15,950
I knew that I had to have a dress,
and somebody said,
20
00:01:16,034 --> 00:01:18,912
"I know someone who's got a PR firm.
They might be able to help you."
21
00:01:18,995 --> 00:01:21,706
So on the day of, we rang
and said, "Do you have it?"
22
00:01:21,790 --> 00:01:23,041
They said "We got one dress."
23
00:01:23,124 --> 00:01:25,585
"Oh, right. I'd love to borrow it
if I can get into it."
24
00:01:29,172 --> 00:01:31,716
So, I went on the Tube to get the dress,
25
00:01:32,842 --> 00:01:35,011
which was handed to me
in a little white plastic bag.
26
00:01:37,055 --> 00:01:39,182
I'd never heard the name Versace before.
27
00:01:39,265 --> 00:01:42,602
I remember it looked pretty precarious,
but I remember touching my toes
28
00:01:42,685 --> 00:01:44,646
and stretching up, and nothing moved.
29
00:01:44,729 --> 00:01:47,941
I was very young at the time, we galloped
down the stairs, and that was that.
30
00:01:48,650 --> 00:01:49,984
Different times.
31
00:01:52,403 --> 00:01:56,783
[Enninful] There she was, wearing this
most incredible Versace dress,
32
00:01:57,659 --> 00:01:59,536
held together by safety pins,
33
00:02:01,746 --> 00:02:03,039
looking so cool.
34
00:02:03,123 --> 00:02:04,749
Almost punk, right?
35
00:02:05,959 --> 00:02:07,127
I was mesmerised.
36
00:02:08,878 --> 00:02:10,213
[Hurley] Must've been photographed
37
00:02:10,296 --> 00:02:12,382
eight hundred thousand
billion times that night.
38
00:02:13,716 --> 00:02:15,927
The next day, we were
on the front page of every newspaper.
39
00:02:16,010 --> 00:02:18,555
We were like, "What the hell is this?"
40
00:02:20,223 --> 00:02:22,475
I remember, I was
just looking at it, thinking, "What?"
41
00:02:22,934 --> 00:02:25,520
And we were like, "It was
a pretty daring dress, wasn't it?"
42
00:02:25,603 --> 00:02:26,938
which we hadn't really realised,
43
00:02:27,021 --> 00:02:29,149
because there was
no full-length mirror in the flat,
44
00:02:29,232 --> 00:02:31,276
so I'd never actually seen all of it.
45
00:02:32,068 --> 00:02:33,278
What can I say?
46
00:02:33,361 --> 00:02:39,784
The power of that dress showed
what it could do for an aspiring actor,
47
00:02:39,868 --> 00:02:42,996
and what it could do
for the fashion house.
48
00:02:43,830 --> 00:02:46,207
[Hurley] And suddenly,
everyone was talking about Versace.
49
00:02:46,708 --> 00:02:50,503
I think it was probably one
of the most revealing dresses at the time,
50
00:02:50,587 --> 00:02:52,338
and the public just ate it up.
51
00:02:52,422 --> 00:02:54,090
It's caught the imagination, hasn't it?
52
00:02:54,174 --> 00:02:56,176
-It's the front page yesterday...
-Chic West End.
53
00:02:56,259 --> 00:02:58,052
...and it's in the papers today.
54
00:02:58,136 --> 00:03:02,724
In the mid-'90s,
we were post-recession, post-AIDS.
55
00:03:02,807 --> 00:03:05,310
I think the world was primed for party.
56
00:03:05,393 --> 00:03:08,438
Anyway, can we just briefly have a reprise
of Elizabeth Hurley's dress?
57
00:03:08,521 --> 00:03:09,772
-About that brief dress.
-Yeah.
58
00:03:09,856 --> 00:03:13,401
It's a couture Versace dress, it's £3,000.
They sold out.
59
00:03:13,484 --> 00:03:17,280
[Baz Luhrmann] In the '90s, at that time,
it was an explosion
60
00:03:17,655 --> 00:03:20,366
of sexuality, of sensuality, of freedom.
61
00:03:20,450 --> 00:03:23,912
That was all very uncool
in the previous decade.
62
00:03:24,412 --> 00:03:26,831
You can only be depressed for so long,
63
00:03:26,915 --> 00:03:30,668
and then you wake up one day
and you just say, "I'm so sick of this,"
64
00:03:30,752 --> 00:03:32,587
and you do something fun.
65
00:03:38,259 --> 00:03:40,261
[♪ orchestral music playing]
66
00:03:44,265 --> 00:03:46,935
So, you feel like we need them both,
is that what you're saying?
67
00:03:48,102 --> 00:03:54,651
The safety pin dress on Liz Hurley was
a bombshell moment on a bombshell actress.
68
00:03:56,027 --> 00:03:59,572
[Hamish Bowles] And at Vogue,
we all did notice that dress.
69
00:04:00,782 --> 00:04:04,244
It showed that there was this real longing
70
00:04:04,327 --> 00:04:08,373
for a sort of glamour and sexiness,
71
00:04:08,873 --> 00:04:13,419
and that is exactly
what Anna was looking for.
72
00:04:13,503 --> 00:04:16,339
And what timeframe are we looking at,
do you think?
73
00:04:17,298 --> 00:04:21,261
Around that time, I wrote a number
of letters from the editor for Vogue.
74
00:04:22,595 --> 00:04:27,600
It was a move to being more dressed
and kind of, chic and powerful.
75
00:04:29,686 --> 00:04:32,730
And I announced that the body was back,
76
00:04:33,314 --> 00:04:36,693
and that we were moving
into a different era of fashion.
77
00:04:37,360 --> 00:04:41,531
Our readers,
the store's customers, were craving it.
78
00:04:43,783 --> 00:04:49,038
The glamour drive from Vogue
was really a response to grunge.
79
00:04:49,831 --> 00:04:51,165
Um... [chuckles]
80
00:04:52,083 --> 00:04:54,669
Anna didn't like grunge,
81
00:04:54,752 --> 00:04:56,921
and she didn't like the waif.
82
00:04:57,505 --> 00:05:01,926
[Bowles] Anna called the designers
that she cared about.
83
00:05:03,678 --> 00:05:05,346
She sort of said,
84
00:05:06,639 --> 00:05:10,810
well, I don't know what she would've said,
actually, but I can imagine.
85
00:05:10,893 --> 00:05:12,437
[chuckles]
86
00:05:13,396 --> 00:05:15,732
[Coddington] But she had a problem,
87
00:05:15,815 --> 00:05:19,444
a lot of young people
still really loved grunge.
88
00:05:20,236 --> 00:05:22,488
Particularly young Hollywood.
89
00:05:22,572 --> 00:05:24,574
[photographers shouting indistinctly]
90
00:05:26,993 --> 00:05:31,664
[Bowles] At that point, red carpet fashion
was really about dressing down.
91
00:05:33,124 --> 00:05:38,671
There was a time when actors were
a little bit wary of the fashion world.
92
00:05:39,255 --> 00:05:42,050
I think a lot of people
in Hollywood thought
93
00:05:42,133 --> 00:05:47,096
"Well, will people think
that I'm not a serious actor?
94
00:05:47,180 --> 00:05:49,182
"So, I'm gonna go anti-fashion."
95
00:05:51,059 --> 00:05:54,062
I was wearing thrift store dresses
and boots,
96
00:05:54,145 --> 00:05:55,813
and even some of my friends were like,
97
00:05:55,897 --> 00:05:58,858
"You've gotta stop wearing those rayon
dresses," "You know, you've gotta stop."
98
00:05:58,941 --> 00:06:02,612
And I was like, "But I love 'em and I can
get 'em for 15 bucks each." You know?
99
00:06:04,489 --> 00:06:09,410
When I first started in the business,
there were no stylists.
100
00:06:09,494 --> 00:06:11,287
It was pretty low-key.
101
00:06:11,371 --> 00:06:16,667
I was dressing like a fly girl,
with my baggy pants, and my tight top,
102
00:06:16,751 --> 00:06:20,838
and my big belt. It's like,
who was I kidding? But that was my beat.
103
00:06:22,507 --> 00:06:25,760
We were really expressing ourselves
and wearing what we liked.
104
00:06:25,843 --> 00:06:27,970
It was very much about personal style.
105
00:06:30,098 --> 00:06:33,559
Sometimes I didn't even have on,
you know, make-up and hair.
106
00:06:35,103 --> 00:06:40,108
So, at Vogue, we were looking out
for a new message of glamour,
107
00:06:42,193 --> 00:06:46,614
and a young designer
who could seal the deal.
108
00:06:46,697 --> 00:06:51,244
So, yes, there was excitement, there was
a sense that everything was changing.
109
00:06:51,869 --> 00:06:55,248
Did we know what was coming? No.
But we knew something was coming.
110
00:06:56,249 --> 00:06:58,960
[man speaking in Italian]
111
00:07:04,215 --> 00:07:07,677
Italy is the home of pasta, chianti,
sun-dried tomatoes,
112
00:07:07,760 --> 00:07:10,179
and some of the world's
most esteemed designers.
113
00:07:10,263 --> 00:07:13,307
There's Versace, local talent Armani,
114
00:07:13,391 --> 00:07:16,519
and then there's those Sicilian
sweethearts, Dolce & Gabbana,
115
00:07:16,602 --> 00:07:20,022
all of whom are set to show you
their latest collections
116
00:07:20,106 --> 00:07:23,151
for autumn-winter '93/'94.
117
00:07:24,652 --> 00:07:28,156
Back in the early '90s, the i-D Magazine,
we were the cool kids,
118
00:07:28,239 --> 00:07:30,241
we were defining what fashion was.
119
00:07:31,492 --> 00:07:32,910
So, all of a sudden,
120
00:07:32,994 --> 00:07:38,124
we were starting to be invited
to every city, to every show, like Milan.
121
00:07:38,624 --> 00:07:41,419
Versace had that Liz Hurley moment,
122
00:07:42,003 --> 00:07:45,214
but to be honest, we thought
the Italian brands were quite naff.
123
00:07:45,882 --> 00:07:48,843
You know, fur, feathers, sequins,
124
00:07:48,926 --> 00:07:52,096
all these things that back in the day
we thought were OTT.
125
00:07:52,972 --> 00:07:54,640
I thought, "Okay, let's see."
126
00:07:54,724 --> 00:07:56,184
Okay, camera's rolling.
127
00:07:56,559 --> 00:07:58,436
[Tonne Goodman]
I was in Milan at that time,
128
00:07:58,519 --> 00:08:01,606
and I remember there was
a big buzz that was occurring,
129
00:08:02,190 --> 00:08:04,692
and that was because
there was a new designer at Gucci,
130
00:08:05,276 --> 00:08:06,944
who was a young American.
131
00:08:07,695 --> 00:08:09,280
[reporter] Enter Tom Ford.
132
00:08:09,363 --> 00:08:11,032
My few hairs that are still there.
133
00:08:11,115 --> 00:08:16,537
A young Texas-born designer who took over
as the label's creative director in '94.
134
00:08:16,621 --> 00:08:19,749
I was, and probably am still
135
00:08:19,832 --> 00:08:21,000
very ambitious.
136
00:08:21,709 --> 00:08:26,631
And I had been brought in
to revive the brand.
137
00:08:26,714 --> 00:08:31,677
I think he was known within the industry,
but he wasn't someone we knew.
138
00:08:38,768 --> 00:08:43,523
Everyone knew the Gucci loafer
and the Gucci bags and the Gucci logos,
139
00:08:43,606 --> 00:08:47,360
but as a force of fashion,
it simply did not exist.
140
00:08:48,694 --> 00:08:51,781
[Ford] At that time,
if you got a Gucci handbag,
141
00:08:52,990 --> 00:08:54,617
you tried to give it away.
142
00:08:55,785 --> 00:09:00,873
Gucci had been a huge success
in the 1970s, and I had seen the archives
143
00:09:00,957 --> 00:09:07,964
were literally a cardboard box
with photos of stars coming in and out
144
00:09:08,047 --> 00:09:09,840
of the various Gucci stores.
145
00:09:10,550 --> 00:09:14,512
Gucci had really capitalised
on these glamorous women
146
00:09:14,595 --> 00:09:16,472
in the 1960s and 1970s.
147
00:09:17,932 --> 00:09:22,103
So, I thought, "Okay, what does that kind
of person want to wear today?"
148
00:09:22,186 --> 00:09:24,522
And when I say today, I mean 1994.
149
00:09:26,649 --> 00:09:30,444
But my first shows
were not successful at all.
150
00:09:30,528 --> 00:09:33,114
[Kate Moss]
I did his first show at Gucci as well.
151
00:09:33,614 --> 00:09:37,201
And it was, um, fine.
[chuckles]
152
00:09:40,121 --> 00:09:42,248
[Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele]
I always tell what I think.
153
00:09:43,040 --> 00:09:44,458
It was extremely boring.
154
00:09:48,462 --> 00:09:50,339
[Ford] No one likes it,
no one cares.
155
00:09:51,591 --> 00:09:54,760
It doesn't move the needle,
nothing happens.
156
00:09:56,220 --> 00:09:59,890
And I remember Richard, my husband,
for those who don't know,
157
00:09:59,974 --> 00:10:04,020
saying to me, "You know,
somehow you've gotta make it sexy."
158
00:10:04,687 --> 00:10:10,276
Just that line propelled me to a time
when things were sexy for me.
159
00:10:10,860 --> 00:10:15,114
[reporter] It's three in the morning
in Manhattan, and still at Studio 54,
160
00:10:15,197 --> 00:10:18,409
people crowd the doors, hoping to get in.
161
00:10:18,492 --> 00:10:22,747
I was lucky enough to catch
the very tail end of the famous Studio 54,
162
00:10:23,331 --> 00:10:24,749
before it shut down.
163
00:10:25,166 --> 00:10:30,379
And I remember very clearly walking in
the front door for the very first time.
164
00:10:31,047 --> 00:10:33,716
And you could just hear
this throbbing, throbbing, throbbing,
165
00:10:33,799 --> 00:10:35,551
throbbing, throbbing,
throbbing, throbbing.
166
00:10:37,678 --> 00:10:41,724
The whole vibe was so hedonistic.
167
00:10:41,807 --> 00:10:46,020
It was transgender,
it was straight, it was princesses,
168
00:10:46,103 --> 00:10:49,148
it was people in black tie,
it was guys having sex,
169
00:10:49,231 --> 00:10:53,235
it was all completely mixed up together.
170
00:10:53,819 --> 00:10:56,697
Stars and celebrities were everywhere.
171
00:10:56,781 --> 00:11:02,161
Society columnists adore Studio 54
for the personalities it attracts,
172
00:11:02,244 --> 00:11:04,163
like soccer player Pelé.
173
00:11:04,246 --> 00:11:08,668
And the beauty standard of that time
was very sexual,
174
00:11:08,751 --> 00:11:11,712
but in a sensual, kissable way,
175
00:11:11,796 --> 00:11:15,216
and very blatantly beautiful beauty.
176
00:11:15,299 --> 00:11:18,761
You know, not understated beauty,
but just full-on.
177
00:11:19,720 --> 00:11:22,098
It was really like something
out of a movie.
178
00:11:22,682 --> 00:11:24,058
So, I turned to that.
179
00:11:25,101 --> 00:11:27,395
I remember a friend of mine said,
"This is ridiculous.
180
00:11:27,478 --> 00:11:31,273
"What? You're gonna, like, bring back
the '70s? You're gonna bring back sex?
181
00:11:31,357 --> 00:11:34,360
"You're gonna just send girls
down the runway being sexy?
182
00:11:34,443 --> 00:11:35,778
"That's just ridiculous.
183
00:11:35,861 --> 00:11:38,864
"You're gonna bring back Studio 54?
That's not happening."
184
00:11:41,951 --> 00:11:45,204
So, fashion week 1995 was a big deal.
185
00:11:45,287 --> 00:11:47,081
Of course, I was nervous.
186
00:11:47,164 --> 00:11:48,249
-[woman] Hey.
-Hi, how are you?
187
00:11:48,332 --> 00:11:49,333
[woman] Good, how are you?
188
00:11:49,417 --> 00:11:50,501
-Nice to see you.
-Yes.
189
00:11:50,584 --> 00:11:51,836
Your camera's gotten smaller.
190
00:11:51,919 --> 00:11:55,589
I was carrying the weight
of the entire organisation.
191
00:11:56,507 --> 00:11:59,593
[reporter] What must the pressure be like
on Tom Ford personally?
192
00:11:59,677 --> 00:12:00,678
Personal hell.
193
00:12:00,761 --> 00:12:05,391
I would imagine Tom Ford
is living in personal hell.
194
00:12:07,059 --> 00:12:12,189
Gucci, what is it like? It's pressure.
Lot of pressure, lot of big people.
195
00:12:13,315 --> 00:12:16,944
[Enninful] There we were,
fashion week in Milan, '95.
196
00:12:17,528 --> 00:12:23,826
And I remember we were told that this year
Gucci was doing things differently.
197
00:12:25,119 --> 00:12:27,371
I remember walking in,
you could feel the excitement.
198
00:12:28,622 --> 00:12:31,292
All the girls were coming
from their fitting, all of them saying,
199
00:12:31,375 --> 00:12:33,627
"Oh, my God, the clothes are amazing!"
200
00:12:34,211 --> 00:12:37,381
It was one of those times that you
get there, you're in hair and make-up,
201
00:12:37,465 --> 00:12:40,342
you have a feeling.
"This is looking quite good."
202
00:12:41,218 --> 00:12:43,471
Awesome. Silver buttons, isn't that fab?
203
00:12:43,554 --> 00:12:46,307
[Amber Valletta] We felt like
the clothes were really on point,
204
00:12:46,390 --> 00:12:48,934
and I just was like, "Wow! What is this?"
205
00:12:49,018 --> 00:12:50,478
I hadn't seen anything like it.
206
00:12:50,561 --> 00:12:52,772
Oh, my goodness. Turn it around.
207
00:12:52,855 --> 00:12:56,567
It was one of those moments where you feel
there was something happening.
208
00:12:57,401 --> 00:13:00,738
Everyone in the fashion industry
made an appearance.
209
00:13:01,238 --> 00:13:05,785
There was so much buzz about it,
such magic in the air.
210
00:13:06,786 --> 00:13:09,330
I've never been more...
So excited in my life.
211
00:13:10,247 --> 00:13:12,666
It was like a big, big, big deal.
212
00:13:13,083 --> 00:13:16,378
[woman] It's a total madhouse here.
There's not enough room,
213
00:13:16,462 --> 00:13:19,089
there's, like, too many people.
It's crazy.
214
00:13:22,134 --> 00:13:26,680
I've always felt that a fashion show
needed to be cinematic.
215
00:13:27,264 --> 00:13:30,810
And so, decided to try out spotlights.
216
00:13:33,687 --> 00:13:35,314
The reason for that is
217
00:13:35,397 --> 00:13:39,151
I didn't want the audience
to look at each other across the way,
218
00:13:39,235 --> 00:13:40,319
to roll their eyes.
219
00:13:41,111 --> 00:13:44,698
I wanted the entire room
to be focused on the runway.
220
00:13:46,659 --> 00:13:51,580
There are few jobs and shows
I remember really well.
221
00:13:55,960 --> 00:14:00,798
I remember walking on stage,
I remember feeling the goose bumps.
222
00:14:03,968 --> 00:14:06,095
I remember feeling the energy in the room.
223
00:14:07,137 --> 00:14:10,307
It's almost like a sonic wave
that's like... [mimics whooshing]
224
00:14:12,226 --> 00:14:14,770
The air goes out
and then an energy comes in.
225
00:14:17,398 --> 00:14:20,359
And the clothes just say everything.
You know, it's, like,
226
00:14:20,442 --> 00:14:23,863
really in-your-face, sexual energy.
227
00:14:25,489 --> 00:14:28,033
I certainly was feeling it, that day.
228
00:14:32,746 --> 00:14:36,208
I remember sitting there,
everyone was in shock.
229
00:14:38,252 --> 00:14:42,464
The shirts open, the satins,
all the beautiful velvet.
230
00:14:42,548 --> 00:14:45,759
The girls were strong,
the girls were sexy.
231
00:14:47,011 --> 00:14:48,762
He did not apologise.
232
00:14:50,139 --> 00:14:54,268
Something clicked, and he'd nailed it.
233
00:14:57,521 --> 00:15:00,691
People were stunned
at how gorgeous it was.
234
00:15:01,609 --> 00:15:05,446
And I remember really having goose bumps.
I think Grace Coddington might have cried.
235
00:15:05,529 --> 00:15:06,947
I might've cried, yeah.
236
00:15:07,031 --> 00:15:08,824
Well, it was exciting.
237
00:15:09,700 --> 00:15:13,162
I mean, it looked very much
like vintage Hollywood glamour.
238
00:15:14,204 --> 00:15:18,125
Tom really touched the zeitgeist.
And what he did, more than clothes,
239
00:15:18,208 --> 00:15:20,377
was he touched on a generation
who were growing up.
240
00:15:20,961 --> 00:15:22,963
You know, the models were now growing up,
241
00:15:23,047 --> 00:15:26,008
the editors were growing up,
the photographers, we were all growing up.
242
00:15:28,218 --> 00:15:33,265
So, yeah. You know, in that moment
we were like, "Okay. Grunge is dead."
243
00:15:33,349 --> 00:15:35,851
Glamour's here. Let's go.
244
00:15:37,645 --> 00:15:39,021
It's true.
245
00:15:43,233 --> 00:15:46,695
It fed into the mood of the moment,
246
00:15:47,446 --> 00:15:52,034
and we had been looking for someone
to give it a voice.
247
00:15:54,578 --> 00:15:57,665
Tom really came through, I thought it was
a really strong, sexy show,
248
00:15:57,748 --> 00:16:00,250
with lots of trends
that are gonna get picked up.
249
00:16:00,334 --> 00:16:06,966
Oh, the return of glamour was great,
after this little petite period of grunge
250
00:16:07,049 --> 00:16:09,468
that everybody went cuckoo for.
251
00:16:09,551 --> 00:16:11,595
Was it sexy? Was it too sexy?
252
00:16:12,596 --> 00:16:14,014
Was it too sexy?
253
00:16:14,098 --> 00:16:16,767
That show, I was particularly nervous.
254
00:16:16,850 --> 00:16:20,521
Did I do the wrong thing? Was it right?
Did it hit the right note?
255
00:16:21,355 --> 00:16:22,606
You know, I wasn't sure.
256
00:16:29,071 --> 00:16:31,448
[reporter] The colourful
MTV Awards took place
257
00:16:31,532 --> 00:16:32,533
in New York Thursday night.
258
00:16:32,616 --> 00:16:37,413
Within the fashion world, there was
no question that Tom Ford had arrived.
259
00:16:38,998 --> 00:16:43,293
But when Madonna actually wore
that amazing blue satin shirt
260
00:16:43,377 --> 00:16:45,337
to the MTV Awards,
261
00:16:45,421 --> 00:16:50,467
it just catapulted him
into a different stratosphere.
262
00:16:53,429 --> 00:16:56,765
I don't know if you remember,
but MTV was it.
263
00:16:56,849 --> 00:16:59,977
That's all we watched, 24 hours a day.
264
00:17:00,060 --> 00:17:03,147
The New York Times reported
over 200 million people
265
00:17:03,230 --> 00:17:06,275
were watching worldwide in that moment.
266
00:17:06,358 --> 00:17:07,651
-[audience cheering]
-[chuckles]
267
00:17:07,735 --> 00:17:12,531
I was an MTV nut. MTV was amazing.
268
00:17:12,614 --> 00:17:14,867
It really was objectively amazing.
269
00:17:14,950 --> 00:17:19,413
It was like, when the right designer
of the moment, when the zeitgeist,
270
00:17:19,496 --> 00:17:24,001
Tom Ford, meets essentially
the biggest star in the world,
271
00:17:24,084 --> 00:17:27,004
and they come together.
It was just a magical moment.
272
00:17:28,255 --> 00:17:31,133
She looked so smoking hot.
273
00:17:33,594 --> 00:17:36,263
Everybody just, you know,
was freaking out.
274
00:17:36,346 --> 00:17:40,768
The next day, the showroom was packed.
275
00:17:40,851 --> 00:17:44,271
Everyone was calling for appointments,
appointments, appointments.
276
00:17:44,354 --> 00:17:47,316
And that was the beginning
of the Tom Ford era.
277
00:17:57,701 --> 00:18:03,332
At that time, I was based in London,
because I was doing films
278
00:18:03,415 --> 00:18:08,378
like Eyes Wide Shut, and so
I had access to European fashion.
279
00:18:08,879 --> 00:18:12,758
Getting dressed up and being
this sort of magical creature
280
00:18:12,841 --> 00:18:14,843
for a night, that's exciting.
281
00:18:16,845 --> 00:18:18,847
[photographers shouting indistinctly]
282
00:18:18,931 --> 00:18:22,810
I look back at that and I think,
"That was fun!"
283
00:18:22,893 --> 00:18:25,312
'Cause that's what fashion is.
You're like, "Yeah,
284
00:18:25,395 --> 00:18:29,274
"I wanna turn heads, why not?" [laughs]
285
00:18:33,112 --> 00:18:34,947
[Enninful] I mean,
there was a moment when Hollywood
286
00:18:35,030 --> 00:18:36,573
didn't embrace glamour, we know,
287
00:18:36,657 --> 00:18:38,325
and then I think Hollywood
288
00:18:39,243 --> 00:18:41,286
looked at fashion and thought,
"Oh, my God."
289
00:18:41,370 --> 00:18:43,622
We're just like, "Okay,
ready to be glamourous again."
290
00:18:44,373 --> 00:18:47,584
The beginning of that transformation
was mostly Versace.
291
00:18:48,627 --> 00:18:52,422
And then it was Gucci,
because Tom Ford, like, Gianni,
292
00:18:52,506 --> 00:18:55,425
he just loved women
to look like goddesses.
293
00:18:57,261 --> 00:18:59,221
And, you know, it took a great photograph.
294
00:19:00,055 --> 00:19:02,808
Tom Ford was the one
that absolutely nailed it.
295
00:19:02,891 --> 00:19:05,561
He knew exactly what Hollywood
wanted to wear.
296
00:19:06,562 --> 00:19:11,817
[Kidman] Tom Ford had an edge to him,
but he also had exquisite taste.
297
00:19:11,900 --> 00:19:13,360
He was excited by it.
298
00:19:13,443 --> 00:19:16,488
That perfect woman, that perfect man.
299
00:19:16,572 --> 00:19:18,824
He would look at you and he would gasp.
300
00:19:18,907 --> 00:19:23,620
[gasps] Okay. Everything is beautiful.
Everything is perfect.
301
00:19:23,704 --> 00:19:25,789
And it's always good to get a gasp.
302
00:19:26,039 --> 00:19:29,168
[chuckles] We all love a gasp.
303
00:19:29,251 --> 00:19:31,086
[gasps and laughs]
304
00:19:33,422 --> 00:19:39,595
I remember when the Tom Ford collection
came out, and it was stunning
305
00:19:39,678 --> 00:19:41,221
and it was really, really new,
306
00:19:41,305 --> 00:19:44,516
and I was like, "I have to wear
that suit somewhere."
307
00:19:46,643 --> 00:19:49,855
I don't even know what it was,
MTV Awards or something.
308
00:19:50,606 --> 00:19:52,191
It was much different then.
309
00:19:52,274 --> 00:19:56,403
I didn't have a stylist,
so I'm, like, calling on the landline,
310
00:19:56,486 --> 00:19:59,406
you know, the PR person,
to see if I can borrow the suit.
311
00:20:03,493 --> 00:20:07,289
Gwyneth, you know, when she wore that suit
was the height of cool.
312
00:20:07,873 --> 00:20:11,210
It gave her a certain cachet.
313
00:20:12,669 --> 00:20:16,632
[Wintour] When I saw this young woman
314
00:20:16,715 --> 00:20:20,135
embracing Tom Ford and wearing it
with such style,
315
00:20:20,802 --> 00:20:22,763
we asked her to do the cover.
316
00:20:23,388 --> 00:20:27,017
She was fun, she was smart,
she was in tons of movies.
317
00:20:27,601 --> 00:20:31,897
In every way,
Gwyneth was the perfect person, really.
318
00:20:32,522 --> 00:20:35,317
I mean, she was sort of Gen-X girl,
319
00:20:35,400 --> 00:20:41,240
and she brought with her
a new generation, really.
320
00:20:42,449 --> 00:20:45,702
But there's an element of risk
in all these things.
321
00:20:47,037 --> 00:20:52,334
For me, being asked to be on the cover
of Vogue was the hugest deal,
322
00:20:52,417 --> 00:20:54,628
and I was so honoured.
323
00:20:54,711 --> 00:20:58,966
And actually, the first shoot
that we did didn't go well.
324
00:21:02,135 --> 00:21:06,014
I do remember we had
a few very unsuccessful shoots.
325
00:21:06,098 --> 00:21:08,809
I think it might've been four shoots.
326
00:21:10,936 --> 00:21:13,230
Which was a bit of a nightmare.
327
00:21:15,274 --> 00:21:18,944
[Wintour] We were shooting more models
at that time, who do it for a living,
328
00:21:19,027 --> 00:21:20,737
and they know how to pose.
329
00:21:21,571 --> 00:21:24,616
But with young actresses,
whoever it may be, say, "Oh, my goodness,
330
00:21:24,700 --> 00:21:28,203
"I'm being shot for the cover of Vogue,"
and they kind of freeze.
331
00:21:28,287 --> 00:21:31,456
So, I would always tell the editors,
"Don't tell them it's the cover.
332
00:21:31,540 --> 00:21:33,750
"Just say we're doing a shoot," you know,
333
00:21:33,834 --> 00:21:35,877
"And we'll choose
the best picture for the cover."
334
00:21:37,504 --> 00:21:39,840
[Paltrow] They were like,
"They don't really like the pictures."
335
00:21:39,923 --> 00:21:42,634
That, like, insecure person inside,
you're like,
336
00:21:42,718 --> 00:21:46,096
"I'm not good enough for the cover
of Vogue, I knew it, I knew it."
337
00:21:48,598 --> 00:21:52,185
And I was shooting a movie
at the time in Virginia,
338
00:21:52,853 --> 00:21:56,356
and they were like, "Let's just come down
and try it again," you know,
339
00:21:56,440 --> 00:21:58,942
"We wanna try it much more natural
and much more you."
340
00:21:59,026 --> 00:22:02,446
We reshot it with Steven Meisel,
341
00:22:03,947 --> 00:22:06,283
and I remember it being
a little embarrassing,
342
00:22:06,366 --> 00:22:08,660
'cause she said in front of Meisel,
343
00:22:09,619 --> 00:22:11,830
"What was wrong with the other picture?"
[laughs]
344
00:22:12,831 --> 00:22:15,042
I said, "Nothing,
we just wanted it outside."
345
00:22:16,043 --> 00:22:18,420
This time, they worked well.
346
00:22:19,338 --> 00:22:22,341
And I remember we were shooting,
347
00:22:22,424 --> 00:22:23,842
and suddenly
348
00:22:25,427 --> 00:22:26,887
Brad Pitt appeared.
349
00:22:27,471 --> 00:22:29,931
They were dating, obviously, at that time.
350
00:22:30,015 --> 00:22:35,479
I think someone said, "Yeah, go in there,"
or something like that and...
351
00:22:35,562 --> 00:22:40,275
He went up to her and sort of kissed her.
352
00:22:41,860 --> 00:22:45,489
And we were like,
"Whoa. That's a great picture."
353
00:22:47,157 --> 00:22:50,077
It was very sweet. I remember it being
a very sweet moment.
354
00:22:51,161 --> 00:22:53,330
But he didn't want us to use it.
355
00:22:53,413 --> 00:22:56,458
I remember looking at the pictures
when they came in,
356
00:22:57,042 --> 00:23:01,296
just thinking, "Well, women
are really gonna respond to that."
357
00:23:02,714 --> 00:23:04,758
Just as we were going to press...
358
00:23:06,176 --> 00:23:07,677
he said, "Okay."
359
00:23:08,303 --> 00:23:11,098
[Wintour] We had already decided
on the cover.
360
00:23:14,226 --> 00:23:16,853
But now we also had a great story.
361
00:23:16,937 --> 00:23:18,939
[♪ upbeat music playing]
362
00:23:23,819 --> 00:23:27,739
[Paltrow] I love that first cover.
All I can remember is when it came out
363
00:23:27,823 --> 00:23:30,784
and I was just, like, totally overwhelmed.
364
00:23:30,867 --> 00:23:34,246
Although it was the August issue,
which I didn't know at the time was, like,
365
00:23:34,329 --> 00:23:36,540
the least important one. [laughs]
366
00:23:39,042 --> 00:23:40,627
Oh, God.
367
00:23:44,381 --> 00:23:45,924
[Enninful] I remember that issue.
368
00:23:46,007 --> 00:23:48,260
It seemed like everywhere you went,
they were sold out.
369
00:23:49,302 --> 00:23:51,263
[Goodman] After years of supermodels,
370
00:23:51,346 --> 00:23:54,558
Gwyneth Paltrow was
when it really snowballed,
371
00:23:54,641 --> 00:23:57,686
and it became... You practically
had to put a celebrity on the cover
372
00:23:57,769 --> 00:23:58,937
to have any kind of success.
373
00:24:01,898 --> 00:24:03,775
It was so funny. They didn't...
374
00:24:03,859 --> 00:24:07,112
They would never do what we did,
'cause it was, kind of, not shunned upon,
375
00:24:07,195 --> 00:24:08,989
but it was like, if you did what we did,
376
00:24:09,072 --> 00:24:11,366
you wouldn't be taken seriously
as an actress.
377
00:24:11,867 --> 00:24:13,743
And how much to see that change.
378
00:24:13,827 --> 00:24:16,955
[laughs] It's like, "Hello."
379
00:24:18,248 --> 00:24:21,501
I much prefer to work with models.
380
00:24:22,252 --> 00:24:24,713
It's, you know, it's not a secret.
381
00:24:26,923 --> 00:24:28,592
And I said to Anna,
382
00:24:29,342 --> 00:24:31,720
"This is the beginning of the end,"
you know,
383
00:24:32,512 --> 00:24:34,264
"Where are we going with this?"
384
00:24:35,599 --> 00:24:37,726
Vogue cover, it was a very big deal to me.
385
00:24:37,809 --> 00:24:39,895
Then to my horror, they said,
386
00:24:39,978 --> 00:24:42,355
"It's the bikini issue." I was just like,
387
00:24:43,106 --> 00:24:44,107
"Really?"
388
00:24:44,191 --> 00:24:50,989
I was very excited to be offered
a Vogue cover. That seemed totally wild.
389
00:24:51,072 --> 00:24:55,076
It was like, "What? Are you kidding?
390
00:24:55,160 --> 00:25:00,415
"This'll be my first and last cover,
but I'm getting it framed."
391
00:25:00,499 --> 00:25:02,083
[chuckles]
392
00:25:03,043 --> 00:25:05,670
[Bowles] The covers really worked,
of course.
393
00:25:06,922 --> 00:25:08,298
Anna was right.
394
00:25:09,341 --> 00:25:14,804
It was just a sign of where the world
was going, and Vogue was there.
395
00:25:15,472 --> 00:25:19,267
Now, suddenly, you know, fashion's
getting more glamorous and more chic,
396
00:25:19,351 --> 00:25:21,937
and the movie stars are too.
397
00:25:22,020 --> 00:25:27,317
But I think it's wonderful for fashion,
'cause it helps move fashion forward.
398
00:25:28,068 --> 00:25:31,154
I wasn't aware that I opened the gate.
It's really...
399
00:25:32,030 --> 00:25:33,240
Um...
400
00:25:33,323 --> 00:25:35,867
That's flattering. I had no idea.
401
00:25:36,910 --> 00:25:41,122
Well, you know me, you know this is,
like, kind of terrifying to me.
402
00:25:42,207 --> 00:25:44,584
I didn't understand it, didn't like it,
403
00:25:45,168 --> 00:25:46,586
but I think
404
00:25:47,504 --> 00:25:51,841
the smartest thing Anna said to me,
405
00:25:51,925 --> 00:25:55,762
and said to me not once
but maybe a hundred times,
406
00:25:56,638 --> 00:25:59,599
"Move on, Grace. Just move on."
407
00:26:00,600 --> 00:26:03,770
"You're barking up the wrong tree here,
move on."
408
00:26:04,688 --> 00:26:06,898
[♪ hip-hop music playing]
409
00:26:09,484 --> 00:26:10,485
♪ Yeah ♪
410
00:26:12,112 --> 00:26:13,530
♪ Yeah ♪
411
00:26:13,613 --> 00:26:16,992
[Enninful] At that time, you could
really see that fashion and film
412
00:26:17,075 --> 00:26:19,119
were getting closer and closer together.
413
00:26:20,954 --> 00:26:23,039
[Luhrmann] In the '90s,
we were living in Miami,
414
00:26:23,123 --> 00:26:25,500
while we were developing Romeo + Juliet.
415
00:26:27,210 --> 00:26:29,254
Now, Miami in the '90s,
416
00:26:29,713 --> 00:26:32,090
that's where everything
was coming together.
417
00:26:32,591 --> 00:26:36,720
Every morning we'd see Gianni Versace
get up and go down to the Pelican Café.
418
00:26:36,803 --> 00:26:38,430
Madonna's living there at the time,
419
00:26:38,930 --> 00:26:43,893
and that Italian aesthetic, the party
and glamour and fashion, is exploding.
420
00:26:44,519 --> 00:26:46,354
And it really influenced the movie.
421
00:26:47,272 --> 00:26:49,482
It was just such an exciting period,
I think,
422
00:26:49,566 --> 00:26:51,401
-to be in that swirl.
-Oh, yeah.
423
00:26:52,944 --> 00:26:56,406
Now, before the '90s,
things belonged in silos.
424
00:26:56,489 --> 00:26:59,659
If you made movies, you made movies.
You didn't hang out with fashion people.
425
00:27:00,327 --> 00:27:04,414
You were either a serious actor,
or you were a designer, or...
426
00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:06,791
And we just didn't care about that.
427
00:27:06,875 --> 00:27:10,920
We just thought art is art
and, you know, and it's all legitimate.
428
00:27:11,004 --> 00:27:13,006
[♪ orchestral music playing]
429
00:27:18,595 --> 00:27:20,263
Making Romeo + Juliet,
430
00:27:20,347 --> 00:27:22,349
we were just absorbing what was in the air
431
00:27:22,432 --> 00:27:24,809
and putting it back out for the audience
to connect with.
432
00:27:30,273 --> 00:27:33,109
[Enninful] I remember seeing
Romeo + Juliet for the first time,
433
00:27:33,193 --> 00:27:36,655
and I remember thinking,
"My God, here is a new aesthetic."
434
00:27:37,322 --> 00:27:39,407
The quarrel is between our masters.
435
00:27:39,491 --> 00:27:42,243
The print shirts, the vivid colours,
436
00:27:42,327 --> 00:27:46,331
I remember the haircuts,
and it had a real fashion point of view...
437
00:27:46,414 --> 00:27:47,582
Look upon thy death.
438
00:27:47,666 --> 00:27:51,336
...where every piece the character wore
was as important as the storyline.
439
00:27:51,419 --> 00:27:54,339
This precious book of love.
440
00:27:54,923 --> 00:28:01,429
It was like, "How about we really lean
into glamour and decoration
441
00:28:01,513 --> 00:28:02,972
"and the cult of beauty?"
442
00:28:03,056 --> 00:28:04,724
[fireworks whistling]
443
00:28:06,393 --> 00:28:09,813
[Danes] Baz understood that that story
444
00:28:10,480 --> 00:28:16,152
is all about the technicolour experience
of being a teenager
445
00:28:16,236 --> 00:28:19,197
and falling in love for the first time.
446
00:28:19,989 --> 00:28:24,661
It was music and fashion
and that was all very dazzling.
447
00:28:27,372 --> 00:28:30,917
[Luhrmann] But also, the aesthetic
was harking back to old Hollywood,
448
00:28:31,000 --> 00:28:32,752
it was harking back to romance.
449
00:28:33,920 --> 00:28:37,465
And so, I reached out to Miuccia Prada
450
00:28:38,174 --> 00:28:40,093
and I said, "Please do some costumes."
451
00:28:40,176 --> 00:28:42,679
I could really talk about
Mrs Prada forever.
452
00:28:42,762 --> 00:28:47,308
I mean, she's one of the most incredible
designers that ever lived.
453
00:28:47,392 --> 00:28:49,477
I put her up there
with Yves Saint Laurent,
454
00:28:49,561 --> 00:28:51,730
I put her up there with Chanel,
and with Dior.
455
00:28:51,813 --> 00:28:52,897
[laughs]
456
00:28:54,274 --> 00:28:59,779
I was asked many times
to do costumes for movies,
457
00:28:59,863 --> 00:29:05,243
but I always refused
because it's another job.
458
00:29:05,326 --> 00:29:06,578
But I thought it was genius,
459
00:29:06,661 --> 00:29:10,498
because it was a way of telling history
in a completely different way,
460
00:29:10,582 --> 00:29:13,710
and with contemporary clothes, so I said,
461
00:29:13,793 --> 00:29:14,794
"Let's do it."
462
00:29:15,462 --> 00:29:17,964
♪ Everybody's free ♪
463
00:29:18,047 --> 00:29:21,176
♪ Everybody's free ♪
464
00:29:21,259 --> 00:29:25,430
♪ To feel good ♪
465
00:29:27,807 --> 00:29:30,226
[Luhrmann] She's about to do
her first menswear collection,
466
00:29:30,310 --> 00:29:35,857
and what happens is she designs
Leonardo's very famous blue suit,
467
00:29:35,940 --> 00:29:37,776
the one that he wears at the wedding,
468
00:29:40,403 --> 00:29:43,239
the one that he tears off when,
you know, he's on the beach.
469
00:29:43,323 --> 00:29:45,283
Turn and draw!
470
00:29:45,992 --> 00:29:47,368
Turn and draw!
471
00:29:47,452 --> 00:29:49,454
[Luhrmann] And that...
It's kind of unknown.
472
00:29:49,537 --> 00:29:51,331
I never injured thee!
473
00:29:52,081 --> 00:29:54,417
Miuccia did that? No way.
474
00:29:55,376 --> 00:29:57,712
Leo never... That's why Leo's always like,
475
00:29:57,796 --> 00:30:00,840
"I've known Prada for a long time." Okay.
476
00:30:02,091 --> 00:30:03,301
I didn't know that.
477
00:30:03,676 --> 00:30:05,178
But that showed, right?
478
00:30:06,095 --> 00:30:07,847
Fashion was now growing up.
479
00:30:08,556 --> 00:30:10,767
[♪ operatic music playing]
480
00:30:14,229 --> 00:30:18,817
It was not a shock that Baz
would get Miuccia in.
481
00:30:20,026 --> 00:30:25,907
For us at Vogue, we totally knew
she was this brilliant designer
482
00:30:25,990 --> 00:30:29,577
who was putting her mark
on the world of fashion.
483
00:30:30,161 --> 00:30:33,039
If you have been living in a sealed box
ten foot underground
484
00:30:33,122 --> 00:30:37,085
for the last 18 months, then just maybe
you haven't heard of Prada,
485
00:30:37,961 --> 00:30:39,420
originally a luggage company,
486
00:30:39,504 --> 00:30:44,551
but now the biggest name in understated
dressing for trendsetters worldwide.
487
00:30:45,093 --> 00:30:47,887
Oh, I love Prada.
Yes, let's talk about Prada.
488
00:30:47,971 --> 00:30:50,723
I love the way she always takes risks
on the runway.
489
00:30:50,807 --> 00:30:55,395
What Miuccia has always done is really
take the absolute classic item
490
00:30:55,478 --> 00:30:56,813
of clothing in your wardrobe,
491
00:30:56,896 --> 00:31:00,984
and reinvent it in the most modern,
directional, futuristic, functional way.
492
00:31:01,943 --> 00:31:06,281
[Wintour] And when Miuccia took over
the creative leadership of that company,
493
00:31:06,364 --> 00:31:08,867
her aesthetic approach
was the polar opposite
494
00:31:08,950 --> 00:31:11,744
of what Tom and Gianni stood for.
495
00:31:12,328 --> 00:31:17,375
Definitely that kind of sexy,
strong is fashionable now.
496
00:31:17,458 --> 00:31:18,459
[interviewer] Mmm-hmm.
497
00:31:18,543 --> 00:31:21,796
But I don't think it's so new.
498
00:31:22,297 --> 00:31:25,842
I think there was a rivalry
and a competition and a push,
499
00:31:26,968 --> 00:31:29,220
but it was a really healthy rivalry.
500
00:31:29,304 --> 00:31:33,266
The cliché of glamour,
that is the example of what I hate.
501
00:31:33,349 --> 00:31:36,603
She was much more feminist
and intellectual
502
00:31:36,686 --> 00:31:38,771
in the way she looked at fashion.
503
00:31:39,564 --> 00:31:42,942
I always try to make glamour
in a different way,
504
00:31:43,026 --> 00:31:48,489
not as a cliché of beauty
just to get a husband.
505
00:31:48,573 --> 00:31:50,533
[laughing]
506
00:31:50,617 --> 00:31:54,162
Hers is covered-up sexy.
507
00:31:55,163 --> 00:31:58,958
That's her, you know.
It's not tits hanging out.
508
00:32:02,795 --> 00:32:06,799
This crowd are waiting for the Prada show,
and the reason they're waiting so long,
509
00:32:06,883 --> 00:32:09,427
as the police car might indicate,
is there's a bomb scare.
510
00:32:10,053 --> 00:32:12,221
But no one is scared enough to miss it.
511
00:32:12,305 --> 00:32:13,306
Oh!
512
00:32:13,806 --> 00:32:17,518
The moment Miuccia broke through
was that spring 1996 show.
513
00:32:18,728 --> 00:32:21,773
I was lucky enough to see that Prada show.
514
00:32:22,815 --> 00:32:24,984
♪ 'Cause I'm just a girl ♪
515
00:32:25,068 --> 00:32:26,986
♪ Oh, little old me ♪
516
00:32:27,070 --> 00:32:28,696
[Camilla Nickerson] And very immediately,
517
00:32:28,863 --> 00:32:33,910
you knew there was a whole new kind
of beauty being celebrated,
518
00:32:34,494 --> 00:32:37,747
which was at odds with Tom Ford's runway.
519
00:32:38,247 --> 00:32:41,751
There was no make-up,
there was hardly any hair.
520
00:32:42,418 --> 00:32:44,504
[Coddington] It was really shocking,
I remember,
521
00:32:44,587 --> 00:32:50,551
because she did everything
in these hideous, sort of, '70s prints.
522
00:32:50,635 --> 00:32:52,804
You know, it was like an ugly housewife.
523
00:32:53,846 --> 00:32:56,265
And to me, that was incredibly cool.
524
00:32:57,392 --> 00:32:59,852
That was exactly what I wanted,
525
00:32:59,936 --> 00:33:02,981
and that was apparently
a horrible scandal.
526
00:33:03,064 --> 00:33:05,692
People were shocked
and called it the ugly show.
527
00:33:09,112 --> 00:33:12,365
And the colours were, like,
kind of, shit or puke.
528
00:33:12,448 --> 00:33:13,700
[laughs]
529
00:33:17,286 --> 00:33:18,454
I loved it.
530
00:33:18,997 --> 00:33:21,332
I was thinking, "I cannot stand this."
531
00:33:23,626 --> 00:33:25,128
[Bowles] The room was divided,
532
00:33:26,129 --> 00:33:27,714
I think you could say that.
533
00:33:29,298 --> 00:33:33,678
You know, there was a certain, sort of,
element of, um, embracing bad taste.
534
00:33:35,763 --> 00:33:36,973
[Miuccia] I'm happy.
535
00:33:37,557 --> 00:33:39,058
Means it was different.
536
00:33:39,142 --> 00:33:42,103
Means it provoked some thought.
537
00:33:44,105 --> 00:33:49,485
The pieces are cool as heck and modern,
modern is hell.
538
00:33:49,569 --> 00:33:53,239
I think that bad taste
was the most chic thing ever.
539
00:33:55,199 --> 00:33:58,661
[Wintour] She's genius at taking things
that are quite humble,
540
00:33:58,745 --> 00:34:01,289
that you would think,
"I would never, ever wear that,"
541
00:34:01,372 --> 00:34:03,750
and making it completely desirable.
542
00:34:03,833 --> 00:34:06,127
Girls went crazy for it.
543
00:34:08,588 --> 00:34:11,883
It became the uniform
for all the cool girls.
544
00:34:13,760 --> 00:34:15,720
Kate Moss would wear it off duty,
545
00:34:15,803 --> 00:34:17,430
Madonna would wear it,
546
00:34:17,513 --> 00:34:21,434
and it was the cool factor that attracted
all these Hollywood stars to Prada.
547
00:34:22,060 --> 00:34:23,478
God, I love her clothes.
548
00:34:26,147 --> 00:34:28,274
[Drew Barrymore]
It's a very classic style of clothing,
549
00:34:28,357 --> 00:34:33,654
but it also feeds into little bad girls
we all have running around inside of us.
550
00:34:33,738 --> 00:34:36,699
What Miuccia was doing,
or Mrs Prada I should say,
551
00:34:37,492 --> 00:34:39,911
you always felt like it was cool.
552
00:34:39,994 --> 00:34:43,456
You know, like,
she was doing something forward.
553
00:34:43,539 --> 00:34:47,877
Whereas, you know, Tom Ford was forward,
but it was, like, sexy,
554
00:34:47,960 --> 00:34:52,298
and then you had Miuccia that was,
sort of like, avant-garde.
555
00:34:53,758 --> 00:34:55,760
I bought my own Prada dress
556
00:34:55,843 --> 00:35:00,223
for the premiere
of a movie I did with Hugh Grant.
557
00:35:00,306 --> 00:35:06,729
It was an ivory coloured stretchy silk,
which was highly unusual.
558
00:35:06,813 --> 00:35:10,608
Simplest dress in the entire world,
but really expensive.
559
00:35:10,691 --> 00:35:12,568
Like, crazy expensive.
560
00:35:14,195 --> 00:35:16,155
But I had that dress forever.
561
00:35:17,156 --> 00:35:22,370
Versace, Prada, and Gucci,
they were my go-to designers.
562
00:35:22,453 --> 00:35:24,455
What was it they were getting right
at the time?
563
00:35:24,539 --> 00:35:26,833
I suppose they really understood
the power of celebrity.
564
00:35:27,708 --> 00:35:30,294
The Italians embraced that.
565
00:35:31,337 --> 00:35:35,133
When I first met David in 1997,
566
00:35:36,092 --> 00:35:39,637
he'd heard that I was the Spice Girl
that liked the designer clothes.
567
00:35:40,221 --> 00:35:42,932
So, after me going
to a couple of football matches,
568
00:35:43,015 --> 00:35:47,562
and I would say, you know,
me, sort of like, pursuing him,
569
00:35:47,645 --> 00:35:49,272
he'd probably say me stalking him,
570
00:35:49,355 --> 00:35:52,483
we arranged to go out on a date together.
571
00:35:52,567 --> 00:35:55,319
He's like, "I don't know what to wear,
she likes designer clothes."
572
00:35:56,237 --> 00:36:00,867
And so, he actually went out
and bought himself a full Prada look
573
00:36:01,409 --> 00:36:03,786
for our first date, to impress me.
574
00:36:03,870 --> 00:36:05,746
Which it did, because it was Prada.
575
00:36:18,885 --> 00:36:22,930
[Wintour] Twice a year, the Vogue team
travel to Paris for the couture shows.
576
00:36:30,354 --> 00:36:33,399
French couture at its best is a dream.
577
00:36:34,442 --> 00:36:38,487
It's made by hand with the best fabrics
and craftsmanship in the world,
578
00:36:39,071 --> 00:36:41,657
for a very exclusive group of clients.
579
00:36:44,744 --> 00:36:50,374
The emphasis is on craft and opulence.
580
00:36:51,751 --> 00:36:55,087
There's an imagination that can run wild.
581
00:36:59,175 --> 00:37:00,885
But at that time, in the '90s,
582
00:37:01,510 --> 00:37:05,264
couture had frankly become
a little bit stuffy and safe.
583
00:37:05,348 --> 00:37:07,350
[♪ violin music playing]
584
00:37:12,730 --> 00:37:15,191
The Italian designers,
Versace, Gucci, Prada,
585
00:37:15,274 --> 00:37:17,652
had learnt how to work with Hollywood,
586
00:37:17,735 --> 00:37:19,862
and Paris was, kind of,
lagging behind, you know,
587
00:37:19,946 --> 00:37:23,991
still the world of haute couture,
sort of, quite rarefied,
588
00:37:24,075 --> 00:37:27,912
and these houses had to find a way
of reinventing themselves.
589
00:37:28,496 --> 00:37:30,539
Then you had John Galliano at Dior.
590
00:37:30,623 --> 00:37:32,750
[reporter] His first work for Dior
was to design
591
00:37:32,833 --> 00:37:34,418
the gown that Princess Diana wore
592
00:37:34,502 --> 00:37:36,420
to a New York gala last December.
593
00:37:36,504 --> 00:37:39,006
The value of a designer
who could generate publicity
594
00:37:39,090 --> 00:37:41,676
was also important
to Galliano's new employers.
595
00:37:42,551 --> 00:37:46,973
Even after that dress, I knew I had
to get on with the huge task
596
00:37:48,391 --> 00:37:49,433
that we had ahead of us.
597
00:37:49,517 --> 00:37:55,690
John Galliano understood that he needed
to woo a star, immediately,
598
00:37:56,482 --> 00:37:57,900
a huge star.
599
00:37:57,984 --> 00:38:02,530
Then the Oscars came up and I thought,
"Oh! Nicole would be perfect."
600
00:38:02,613 --> 00:38:03,739
Can you believe it?
601
00:38:03,823 --> 00:38:06,951
My whole life I wanted to be 5'2"
and curvaceous,
602
00:38:07,451 --> 00:38:12,707
and suddenly being 5'11"
and completely, sort of, skinny
603
00:38:12,790 --> 00:38:15,543
and flat-chested, they were like,
"Great, we can dress you."
604
00:38:17,628 --> 00:38:23,384
After months of research,
sketching, this is tentatively...
605
00:38:23,467 --> 00:38:25,511
I mean, it can still change,
it can still change.
606
00:38:25,594 --> 00:38:29,598
The detail that we went into
was incredible.
607
00:38:29,682 --> 00:38:35,730
But Nicole was the first one
to get it and embrace it.
608
00:38:35,813 --> 00:38:36,897
She put the time in.
609
00:38:36,981 --> 00:38:39,483
Putting on shoes, putting on shades,
putting on hats,
610
00:38:39,567 --> 00:38:41,152
then they'd say,
"Well, this gonna have this,
611
00:38:41,235 --> 00:38:43,029
"and this gonna have that."
You'd stand there,
612
00:38:43,487 --> 00:38:48,200
um, and patience is a virtue,
let me tell you, sometimes for hours.
613
00:38:49,243 --> 00:38:51,245
So, that's where you actually see
the piping.
614
00:38:51,829 --> 00:38:57,001
I grew up watching Katharine Hepburn
and Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly.
615
00:38:57,626 --> 00:38:58,669
All these women
616
00:38:58,753 --> 00:39:03,591
whose style was created with
the designers they were affiliated with.
617
00:39:04,342 --> 00:39:06,344
They just loved fashion.
618
00:39:06,427 --> 00:39:09,263
[reporter] A night of beautiful women,
she was one of the more striking.
619
00:39:09,347 --> 00:39:12,516
So, I remember thinking, "But of course.
620
00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:14,935
"This should be brought
into Hollywood now,
621
00:39:15,019 --> 00:39:17,897
"and we should be wearing
the things that are made
622
00:39:17,980 --> 00:39:21,692
"in these gorgeous little salons in Paris,
623
00:39:21,776 --> 00:39:25,988
"because that's what they used to do,
so why aren't we still doing it?"
624
00:39:26,072 --> 00:39:28,074
[♪ fanfare playing]
625
00:39:29,367 --> 00:39:33,537
[announcer] Live from
Los Angeles, California,
626
00:39:33,621 --> 00:39:36,957
the 69th Annual Academy Awards.
627
00:39:39,251 --> 00:39:40,544
[indistinct chattering]
628
00:39:43,714 --> 00:39:46,550
[reporter] Here at the Shrine Auditorium,
crowds have gathered since dawn.
629
00:39:46,634 --> 00:39:49,720
The city's film fans
have been doing for 69 years,
630
00:39:50,471 --> 00:39:52,556
watching the stars come out.
631
00:39:55,309 --> 00:39:58,104
[Paltrow] The Oscars,
especially at that time, you know,
632
00:39:58,229 --> 00:40:02,483
there was this vibe that was
very restrained, maybe, in a way,
633
00:40:03,234 --> 00:40:06,779
and maybe it was that era where, you know,
you were taken more seriously
634
00:40:06,862 --> 00:40:09,323
if you were in suiting
or that kind of thing.
635
00:40:10,074 --> 00:40:13,911
But I remember that moment Nicole came out
in that beautiful dress,
636
00:40:13,994 --> 00:40:16,747
and it was all beads and embroidery
and everything.
637
00:40:18,999 --> 00:40:22,711
It was just like,
"Wow, there's couture on the red carpet."
638
00:40:25,506 --> 00:40:30,052
I remember strongly Nicole telling me
about going to the Oscars
639
00:40:30,136 --> 00:40:31,971
in that haute couture dress,
640
00:40:32,471 --> 00:40:36,434
and saying that this was
against the advice of her team.
641
00:40:38,853 --> 00:40:44,108
There wasn't a kind of risky,
edgy fashion Olympics happening.
642
00:40:47,111 --> 00:40:52,867
And she said, "This is art.
I wanna celebrate in artful clothes.
643
00:40:52,950 --> 00:40:58,038
"I wanna celebrate the beauty
and the extravagance of fashion
644
00:40:58,122 --> 00:40:59,874
"in this special moment."
645
00:40:59,957 --> 00:41:01,500
And she, kind of, pushed on ahead.
646
00:41:03,169 --> 00:41:07,465
[announcer] She has starred in such films
as To Die For, and The Portrait of a Lady.
647
00:41:07,548 --> 00:41:09,341
Nicole Kidman.
648
00:41:10,134 --> 00:41:13,095
[Kidman] The embroidery on it
was just... [gasps]
649
00:41:13,262 --> 00:41:18,017
And the shape of it.
Everything was so beautiful.
650
00:41:18,100 --> 00:41:21,145
Editing provides us with the rhythm
and pace of the film.
651
00:41:21,228 --> 00:41:24,899
I mean, I was a redheaded,
fair-skinned girl
652
00:41:24,982 --> 00:41:28,569
who was, you know,
almost 5'11" at the age of 14.
653
00:41:29,069 --> 00:41:32,239
I would get teased, and it wasn't kind.
654
00:41:33,407 --> 00:41:38,245
And so, every time I'm given access
to that whole world...
655
00:41:38,329 --> 00:41:40,706
The Oscar goes to Walter...
656
00:41:40,789 --> 00:41:42,374
You feel like a little girl
657
00:41:42,458 --> 00:41:48,589
who's being given the chance
to step into this, sort of, fantasy world.
658
00:41:48,672 --> 00:41:54,136
That was fashion with a capital F,
coming to the Oscars.
659
00:41:54,220 --> 00:41:57,264
She was so spectacular.
660
00:41:57,348 --> 00:42:00,726
So, so perfection.
661
00:42:01,268 --> 00:42:04,730
I just remember Madonna and Courtney Love
saying, "Best dress."
662
00:42:05,356 --> 00:42:07,274
[laughs]
663
00:42:08,359 --> 00:42:10,694
[Goodman] I remember seeing
the coverage in Vogue,
664
00:42:10,778 --> 00:42:14,949
and it was reported
that her Oscar appearance,
665
00:42:15,032 --> 00:42:19,119
in every magazine from People
to Paris Match,
666
00:42:19,203 --> 00:42:23,874
exposed around 54 million women to Dior.
667
00:42:25,668 --> 00:42:26,961
That's a lot of people.
668
00:42:27,878 --> 00:42:32,758
[chuckles] Enormous.
Enormous. Enormous.
669
00:42:33,259 --> 00:42:34,969
[interviewer] What do you think
of her dress?
670
00:42:35,052 --> 00:42:36,595
[man] Loved her Dior outfit.
671
00:42:36,679 --> 00:42:38,889
I haven't seen anything
that beautiful in years.
672
00:42:38,973 --> 00:42:40,182
The colour was gorgeous.
673
00:42:40,266 --> 00:42:43,894
It was a return to romance, a return to
a sort of old Hollywood tradition.
674
00:42:43,978 --> 00:42:45,354
She was amazing.
675
00:42:45,437 --> 00:42:50,234
I think that this in fact was
the exact moment that everybody understood
676
00:42:50,317 --> 00:42:52,194
exactly how significant
677
00:42:52,278 --> 00:42:57,032
the relationship between a fashion house
and a celebrity was.
678
00:42:57,116 --> 00:43:00,703
After Nicole wore that dress,
and there was so much press about it,
679
00:43:00,786 --> 00:43:04,039
I think that's when it all started
to be about, like,
680
00:43:04,123 --> 00:43:06,917
designers vying to dress you.
681
00:43:07,001 --> 00:43:12,214
Essentially like, "Let's get women
on the red carpet in our clothes."
682
00:43:13,549 --> 00:43:16,594
There were now endorsements
from jewellery brands
683
00:43:16,677 --> 00:43:21,307
and various other brands,
and it was fabulous. I mean, I loved it.
684
00:43:21,390 --> 00:43:24,935
Oh, my God, the rocks,
just the most exquisite jewellery ever.
685
00:43:25,019 --> 00:43:26,478
It was pretty crazy.
686
00:43:26,562 --> 00:43:29,231
Suddenly there was lots of paparazzi.
687
00:43:29,898 --> 00:43:32,109
I stand by that look. [chuckles]
688
00:43:32,735 --> 00:43:34,320
It's a bold choice.
689
00:43:34,403 --> 00:43:39,116
There was the discussion of stylists
and hair and make-up people
690
00:43:39,199 --> 00:43:42,870
and scrutiny, scrutiny,
scrutiny, scrutiny, scrutiny.
691
00:43:43,579 --> 00:43:45,122
[photographers clamouring]
692
00:43:45,205 --> 00:43:49,585
You knew that there was a change,
you knew fashion would never be the same.
693
00:43:49,668 --> 00:43:52,546
You knew fashion and celebrity
were now hand in hand.
694
00:43:52,630 --> 00:43:54,465
That's when the Hollywood stylist
was born.
695
00:43:59,303 --> 00:44:02,640
We did this big cover line,
"How Hollywood Conquered Fashion,"
696
00:44:02,723 --> 00:44:07,102
and we really talk about the love affair
between the Winonas and the Gwyneths
697
00:44:07,186 --> 00:44:10,230
and the Claire Danes,
and the fashion designers.
698
00:44:10,314 --> 00:44:13,525
And they love the glamour now,
and they love to be photographed.
699
00:44:13,901 --> 00:44:17,446
It's, sort of, become this,
I don't know, merger.
700
00:44:17,529 --> 00:44:19,490
Sort of, fashion merger, if you like.
701
00:44:20,074 --> 00:44:26,497
By the end of the decade, every designer
embraced couture for the red carpet,
702
00:44:26,580 --> 00:44:28,582
not just the French.
703
00:44:30,125 --> 00:44:32,002
It was kind of astonishing.
704
00:44:32,503 --> 00:44:37,633
You know, I was nominated for an Oscar
and I saw the Ralph Lauren look book,
705
00:44:37,716 --> 00:44:41,929
and I was really taken with this, kind of,
bubblegum pink skirt
706
00:44:42,012 --> 00:44:43,972
that he had done in the show,
707
00:44:44,056 --> 00:44:46,308
with a little pink shrunken sweater.
708
00:44:47,518 --> 00:44:49,311
And I thought, "Oh, that would be great,
709
00:44:49,395 --> 00:44:51,730
"maybe they'll let me borrow this
for the Oscars."
710
00:44:51,814 --> 00:44:54,024
And then very kindly, they said,
711
00:44:54,108 --> 00:44:57,653
"Well, he would actually like to make you
something custom, if that's okay."
712
00:44:58,237 --> 00:45:00,572
Which one you'd rather wear,
this or the...
713
00:45:00,948 --> 00:45:05,411
[Paltrow] I worked with their, sort of,
celebrity, you know, liaison,
714
00:45:05,494 --> 00:45:07,996
which was a new thing.
All these brands were getting these,
715
00:45:08,080 --> 00:45:13,669
kind of, celebrity PR people to help
get women like me in their dresses,
716
00:45:13,752 --> 00:45:18,048
and we, kind of,
ideated this dress all together,
717
00:45:18,132 --> 00:45:21,385
and then... And then that was that.
718
00:45:21,468 --> 00:45:25,013
The pink bubblegum ball gown dress
was born.
719
00:45:28,267 --> 00:45:34,189
[Jack Nicholson] And the Oscar goes to
Gwyneth Paltrow, Shakespeare in Love.
720
00:45:36,066 --> 00:45:39,695
It was a pretty intense time in my life.
721
00:45:39,778 --> 00:45:42,281
I was only 26.
There was a lot going on.
722
00:45:42,364 --> 00:45:44,408
Um... [laughs]
723
00:45:45,826 --> 00:45:49,538
Oh, I would like to thank the Academy
from the bottom of my heart.
724
00:45:51,874 --> 00:45:55,544
I would not have been able
to play this role
725
00:45:55,627 --> 00:45:58,839
had I not understood love
of a tremendous magnitude,
726
00:45:58,922 --> 00:46:01,133
and for that, I thank my family.
727
00:46:01,216 --> 00:46:03,552
Thank you, thank you so much, everybody.
728
00:46:04,553 --> 00:46:08,557
[Wintour] It really changed radically,
I would say,
729
00:46:08,640 --> 00:46:13,896
when certain actresses started
to take a much more frankly exciting
730
00:46:13,979 --> 00:46:17,816
and more of-the-moment fashion choices.
731
00:46:17,900 --> 00:46:20,360
That's when I think the world
732
00:46:20,444 --> 00:46:23,614
started to look at the red carpet
in a very different way.
733
00:46:23,697 --> 00:46:25,449
[photographers shouting indistinctly]
734
00:46:26,241 --> 00:46:29,995
Somebody told me that that dress
has its own Wikipedia page,
735
00:46:30,078 --> 00:46:31,330
which I can't believe.
736
00:46:33,707 --> 00:46:35,417
It's so funny, it's like,
737
00:46:35,501 --> 00:46:39,171
who would've thought
a dress would be a famous thing?
738
00:46:39,254 --> 00:46:42,508
But I have it. She's with me.
739
00:46:44,468 --> 00:46:46,512
[reporter] Last Night New York Gala
had beauty,
740
00:46:46,595 --> 00:46:48,555
it had class and it had style.
741
00:46:49,056 --> 00:46:50,891
My goodness, the Met has changed.
742
00:46:51,475 --> 00:46:53,852
[woman] Rihanna!
743
00:46:53,936 --> 00:46:55,813
It's pure, utter glamour,
744
00:46:56,355 --> 00:46:59,358
and it is the place to go... [gasps]
745
00:46:59,441 --> 00:47:02,903
"Who is that over there?
Who is that over there?"
746
00:47:03,487 --> 00:47:06,907
Anna puts on
the biggest extravaganza there is.
747
00:47:06,990 --> 00:47:09,910
-If it becomes problematic...
-Yeah.
748
00:47:09,993 --> 00:47:11,036
Maybe nothing.
749
00:47:11,119 --> 00:47:13,622
[announcer] Please give it up
for team FUBU.
750
00:47:13,705 --> 00:47:17,000
The hip-hop world and high fashion
were worlds apart.
751
00:47:17,084 --> 00:47:20,712
What is this rap thing?
What is this hip-hop thing?
752
00:47:20,796 --> 00:47:22,756
They were treating us
like little street kids.
753
00:47:23,340 --> 00:47:26,760
[reporter] Fashion designer Gianni Versace
was murdered today,
754
00:47:26,844 --> 00:47:29,847
gunned down outside his mansion
in Miami Beach, Florida.
755
00:47:30,430 --> 00:47:35,435
To have lost him in that way, I can't
even tell you how shocked we all were.
756
00:47:35,519 --> 00:47:38,146
It is so unfair. It is not fair.
757
00:47:38,480 --> 00:47:40,065
[Hillary Clinton]
I thought it was so clever,
758
00:47:40,566 --> 00:47:42,943
put on a cold shoulder dress,
have a good time.
759
00:47:43,026 --> 00:47:46,655
Next thing I knew I was on the front page
of The New York Times.
760
00:47:47,239 --> 00:47:50,951
Seeing the thong on the runway,
that's so crazy.
761
00:47:51,034 --> 00:47:54,037
He just pushed it
as far as he could do it.
762
00:47:54,121 --> 00:47:57,374
[Ford] You don't let people tell you
what they want.
763
00:47:57,457 --> 00:48:00,252
You tell them what they want.
62200
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