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--Captions by VITAC-- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS
Narrator: THROUGHOUT EUROPE IN THE LATE 1700s,
PEAKED CAPS WERE TRADITIONALLY WORN BY INDUSTRIAL WORKERS.
TODAY, THEY ARE WORN BY PROFESSIONALS
SUCH AS SECURITY PERSONNEL, MEMBERS OF THE MILITARY,
AND POLICE OFFICIALS THAT WEAR UNIFORMS.
IN THE UNITED KINGDOM, SOME POLICE OFFICERS
STILL WEAR THE CLASSIC CUSTODIAN HELMET,
BUT NOW MANY OFFICERS HAVE CHOSEN TO WEAR
THE LIGHTWEIGHT, COMFORTABLE, AND PRACTICAL PEAKED CAP.
TO MAKE THESE CAPS, A HAT MAKER, OR A MILLINER,
ASSEMBLES A NUMBER OF COMPONENTS USING PATTERNS
TO CUT OUT THE REQUIRED PIECES OF WOOL, FOAM, AND PLASTIC.
A MILLINER BENDS A STRIP OF POLYPROPYLENE PLASTIC
INTO A CIRCLE.
SHE SEWS THE JOINT WITH A HIGH-STRENGTH THREAD,
CREATING THE HAT BAND THAT WILL GO AROUND THE HEAD.
SHE POSITIONS A SMALLER PIECE OF POLYPROPYLENE,
KNOWN AS THE BADGE SUPPORT, AND SEWS IT IN PLACE.
THE SUPPORT WILL PREVENT THE WEIGHT OF A POLICE BADGE
FROM DISTORTING THE SHAPE OF THE HAT.
THESE CRESCENT-SHAPED COMPONENTS ARE PIECES OF WOOL
GLUED TO THIN, FLEXIBLE FOAM.
SHE SEWS THE CRESCENTS TOGETHER, CREATING A CIRCULAR PIECE,
WHICH WILL FORM THE BEVEL.
SHE USES A SPECIALIZED, LONG-ARM SEWING MACHINE,
WHICH HAS BEEN CUSTOMIZED TO MAKE HATS.
THE SEAMS ARE CAREFULLY IRONED FLAT TO PREVENT ANY BULGING.
IF THE IRON IS TOO HOT, THE FOAM WILL MELT.
TOO COOL, AND THE WOOL WON'T FLATTEN.
SHE ALIGNS TWO STRIPS OF 100% WOOL FABRIC
AND SEWS THEM TOGETHER AT THE ENDS.
THIS PIECE WILL COVER THE PLASTIC STIFFENER
FORMING THE OUTER BAND.
TO ENSURE THE SIZING IS CORRECT,
THE MILLINER PLACES THE WOOL COVER OVER THE STIFFENER.
THE STIFFENER IS INSTALLED
AT THE END OF THE PRODUCTION PROCESS.
NEXT, THE MILLINER IRONS THE SEAMS OF THE BAND COVERS.
SHE FINISHES THE BAND COVERS ON A SEWING MACHINE
KNOWN AS A FLAT BED
AND CREATES A FOLD TO HOLD THE PLASTIC STIFFENER
AND SEWS THE EDGES TOGETHER.
THEN THE BAND COVER IS SEWED TO THE BEVEL.
WHILE IT'S DIFFICULT TO ATTACH TWO PIECES OF CLOTH
AT DIFFERENT ANGLES,
THIS STEP CREATES AN EVEN SEAM THAT RUNS 360 DEGREES.
IT TAKES AT LEAST SIX MONTHS OF TRAINING
TO LEARN HOW TO MAKE HATS.
THE CROWN IS MADE FROM THREE MATERIALS --
A COMBINATION OF WOOL AND FOAM,
A POLYESTER LINING,
AND A PROTECTIVE-GRADE P.V.C. LAYER.
ONCE THE THREE MATERIALS HAVE BEEN SEWN TOGETHER,
THE MACHINIST TRIMS THE PERIMETER OF THE CROWN.
SHE MARKS THE SIDE EDGES
AND ALIGNS THEM WITH THE SEAMS ON THE BEVEL.
THEN SHE SEWS THE CROWN TO THE BEVEL.
HAVING SPENT A GREAT DEAL OF TIME PERFECTING THE SKILLS,
THIS MILLINER MAKES IT LOOK EASY.
FINALLY, THE COMPONENTS BEGIN TO RESEMBLE A HAT.
USING A POLYPROPYLENE TEMPLATE, THE MACHINIST POSITIONS
AND MARKS TWO SPOTS ON THE BEVEL.
SHE PLACES TWO SMALL BRASS RINGS ON A SPECIAL DEVICE
AND ALIGNS THE MARKS WITH THE DEVICE'S POSTS,
WHICH CUT OUT TWO HOLES THROUGH THE FABRIC.
THEN SHE PLACES TWO CUP-SHAPED RINGS ON THE POSTS,
AND THE MACHINE PUNCHES THEM DOWN,
FORMING EYELETS FOR VENTILATION.
NEXT, THE POLYPROPYLENE STIFFENER
IS INSERTED INTO THE HAT.
FINALLY, THE HAT BEGINS TO TAKE ON ITS FINAL SHAPE.
THE TAG CONTAINING THE HAT'S SIZE IS SEWED ON HAT BAND.
SHE PLACES A CHECKERED-PATTERN BAND ON THE BRIM OF THE HAT,
CALLED DICING OR THE SILLITOE TARTAN.
THE MILLINER INSERTS A REPLICA BADGE
THROUGH HOLES IN THE BADGE SUPPORT
AND SECURES IT WITH A PIN.
THIS IS A REPLICA,
SINCE WE CAN'T SHOW REAL POLICE BADGES ON TV.
NEXT, THE MILLINER SEWS THE PEAK ONTO THE BAND.
IT TOOK A HIGHLY SKILLED MILLINER
MORE THAN HALF AN HOUR TO SEW THIS HAT.
THEY MIGHT LOOK STRAIGHTFORWARD,
BUT PEAKED CAPS ARE SURPRISINGLY COMPLEX.
Narrator: A HOME WATER HEATER STORES AND HEATS WATER IN A TANK.
THIS IS HOW IT WORKS.
WHEN YOU TURN ON A FAUCET,
HOT WATER FLOWS OUT OF THE TANK FROM THE TOP,
WHILE COLD WATER FLOWS INTO THE TANK FROM THE BOTTOM.
CONVENTIONAL WATER HEATERS ARE FUELED BY NATURAL GAS,
ELECTRICITY, PROPANE, OR OIL.
THIS COMPANY CUSTOM-BUILDS SEVERAL TYPES OF WATER HEATERS
FOR USE WITH DIFFERENT TYPES OF HEAT SOURCES,
SUCH AS BOILERS, HEAT PUMPS, AND SOLAR PANELS.
EACH WORK ORDER INCLUDES A PICTURE OUTLINING
THE PIPE CONFIGURATION AND THE CONNECTING VALVES,
ALONG WITH A LIST OF THE WATER HEATER'S SPECIFICATIONS.
TO MAKE A COPPER TANK,
A TECHNICIAN CUTS A THICK SHEET OF COPPER TO A SPECIFIED LENGTH.
HE ALIGNS THE END OF THE SHEET TO THE GRADATION ON THE TABLE
THAT CORRESPONDS TO THE TANK'S CIRCUMFERENCE.
THEN HE ACTIVES THE GUILLOTINE BLADE WITH A FOOT PEDAL.
A COMPUTER-GUIDED MACHINE PUNCHES HOLES FOR THE VALVES.
THIS WATER HEATER REQUIRES TWO VALVES
AT EACH END OF THE HEATING COIL
AND ONE THAT WILL CONNECT THE WATER PIPE TO THE TANK.
THE TECHNICIAN INSERTS THE COPPER SHEET
INTO A MECHANICAL ROLLER.
THE ROLLERS APPLY PRESSURE,
FORMING THE SHEET INTO AN OPEN CYLINDER.
ONE END OF THE CYLINDER IS CLAMPED INTO A MACHINE
THAT WELDS LINEAR SEAMS.
THE TECHNICIAN INSERTS THE OTHER END
OF THE CYLINDER THROUGH THE MACHINE
AND JOINS IT AGAINST THE CLAMPED END.
THE MACHINE IS PROGRAMMED TO WELD A SEAM
TO THE LENGTH OF THE CONNECTED ENDS.
THE TECHNICIAN MONITORS THE WELDING ARM
THROUGH A U.V. LENS TO PROTECT HIS EYES.
THE MACHINE STOPS AUTOMATICALLY
WHEN IT REACHES THE PROGRAMMED SEAM LENGTH.
THIS PROCESS CLOSES THE CYLINDER
WITH A STRONG, PRESSURE-RESISTANT SEAM,
CREATING THE WATER-HEATER TANK'S STRUCTURAL COMPONENT.
ANOTHER TECHNICIAN PLACES THE TANK'S TOP ON A PRESS.
THE PRESS PUNCHES A HOLE FOR A THREADED PIPE FITTING.
THE FITTING CONNECTS THE PIPE TO THE HOT WATER.
USING A DIFFERENT PRESS,
THE TECHNICIAN MAKES ANOTHER HOLE
INTO THE CYLINDER FOR A THREADED FITTING.
THIS FITTING CONNECTS TO AN ELECTRICAL ELEMENT
THAT HEATS WATER IN CONJUNCTION WITH A BOILER.
ANOTHER TECHNICIAN MAKES THE TANK'S HEATING COIL
BY RUNNING A STRAIGHT COPPER TUBE THROUGH THREE ROLLERS.
THE TUBE IS BENT UNDER PRESSURE,
FORMING IT INTO A COILED SHAPE.
THE HEAT FROM THE BOILER, PUMP, OR SOLAR PANEL
FLOWS THROUGH THE HEATING COIL,
HEATING THE WATER STORED IN THE TANK.
SINCE THE COPPER-TUBE WALL IS TOO THIN TO WELD,
A TECHNICIAN USES A FUSING TECHNIQUE KNOWN AS BRAZING.
THIS METAL-JOINING PROCESS BRAZES A FLOW FITTING
ON ONE END OF THE HEATING COIL
AND A RETURN FITTING ON THE OTHER.
NEXT, THE HEATING COIL IS PLACED IN THE TANK.
THE FITTINGS PROTRUDE THROUGH A HOLE AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM.
THE TECHNICIAN SECURES EACH ONE WITH A NUT,
THEN TIGHTENS THE NUTS WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH.
LIKE THE DOME TOP, THE BOTTOM COMPONENT'S EDGES ARE GROOVED,
ALLOWING THE TANK TO FIT PERFECTLY
INTO THE CYLINDER BASE.
ONCE THE TOP AND BOTTOM COMPONENTS ARE INSTALLED,
THE TANK GOES BACK TO THE BRAZING STATION
FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY.
A WELDER BRAZES THE TOP AND BOTTOM COMPONENTS
TO THE CYLINDER,
THEN HE BRAZES A FEED FITTING TO A HOLE
NEAR THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK.
THIS LOCATION IS WHERE COLD WATER ENTERS
THE TANK TO BE HEATED.
NEXT, A TECHNICIAN CONDUCTS A QUALITY-CONTROL TEST.
HE BLOCKS THE THREE FITTINGS, FILLS THE CYLINDER WITH AIR,
THEN SUBMERGES THE TANK IN WATER TO CHECK FOR AIR BUBBLES,
WHICH WOULD INDICATE A LEAK.
A STAINLESS-STEEL WATER HEATER IS CONSTRUCTED
JUST LIKE A COPPER HEATER,
EXCEPT THAT THEY DON'T REQUIRE ANY BRAZING.
A ROBOT SPRAYS THE TANKS WITH EXPANDABLE POLYURETHANE FOAM
FOR INSULATION.
THE CUSTOMER SELECTS THE DEGREE OF INSULATION,
ONE TO FOUR INCHES THICK.
THE FOAM TAKES JUST FIVE MINUTES TO CURE.
AS THE TANK STORES HOT WATER, THE INSULATION REDUCES
THE AMOUNT OF HEAT THE TANK LOSES OVER TIME.
Narrator: ELECTRICALLY POWERED VEHICLES
MAY SEEM LIKE A 21st-CENTURY PHENOMENON,
BUT THEY WERE ACTUALLY FIRST INVENTED IN THE 1880s.
DURING THAT TIME, THEY WERE VERY POPULAR,
UNTIL COMBUSTION-ENGINE VEHICLES BECAME THE NEW NORMAL.
TODAY, THESE ELECTRICALLY POWERED
ALTERNATIVE-FUEL VEHICLES ARE MAKING A COMEBACK.
THIS MANUFACTURER PRODUCES A WIDE RANGE OF ELECTRIC BOATS.
THANKS TO POWERFUL BATTERIES, SOME OF THESE VEHICLES
CAN TRAVEL OVER 35 MILES PER HOUR.
CRAFTSPEOPLE APPLY A GEL-COAT SKIN TO A MOLD,
USING A PRODUCT DERIVED FROM VINYL.
THEN THEY LAYER ON A DRY FIBERGLASS FABRIC
AND VACUUM-BAG THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY.
THE VACUUM SUCTION DRAWS IN LIQUID RESIN,
INFUSING THE MATERIAL.
A CRAFTSMAN MARKS A DRY SPOT AS A TEST POINT
TO MONITOR AND ENSURE COMPLETE SATURATION.
THE INFUSION PROCESS TAKES ABOUT TWO HOURS.
ONCE COMPLETE, THE ASSEMBLY WILL CURE FOR FOUR TO SIX HOURS,
DEPENDING ON THE GENERAL HUMIDITY AND TEMPERATURE LEVELS.
ONCE CURED, THE ASSEMBLY IS REMOVED FROM THE MOLD.
DESPITE THE STRUCTURE'S LIGHT WEIGHT,
THIS DECK IS INCREDIBLY STRONG, RIGID, AND DURABLE.
THE FIBERGLASS DECKS AND HULLS MAKE UP THE BOAT'S SHELLS.
A CRAFTSWOMAN APPLIES A HIGH-STRENGTH MARINE GLUE
TO A RECESSED AREA OF THE DECK.
SHE INSTALLS AN ANTI-SKID DECK INSERTION.
THIS MATERIAL IS A COMPOSITE DESIGNED TO RESEMBLE WOOD.
UNLIKE REAL WOOD, THIS COMPOSITE MATERIAL
WILL LAST THE LIFETIME OF THE BOAT
AND WON'T REQUIRE ANY ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE.
THE CRAFTSWOMAN USES A ROLLER TO APPLY PRESSURE EVENLY
ACROSS THE ENTIRE DECKING SURFACE.
THIS STEP WILL ELIMINATE ANY UNWANTED AIR POCKETS.
NEXT, A MIRROR-IMAGE DECKING SECTION
IS APPLIED TO THE OTHER SIDE.
A SPECIALIST INSTALLS THE ELECTRICAL-WIRING HARNESS.
TO AVOID CORROSION, MARINE-GRADE WIRING IS STORED
IN A SEALED ENVIRONMENT UNDER THE DECK.
SINCE THE DECKING IS LIGHTWEIGHT,
IT ONLY TAKES TWO PEOPLE TO LIFT AND INSTALL IT ON THE HULL.
THE LIP OF THE DECK FITS SNUGLY INTO PLACE.
THE MOST POWERFUL BOAT MODELS REQUIRE LITHIUM-ION BATTERIES.
THESE BOATS ARE BUILT WITH MILITARY-GRADE FOAM.
THE DENSITY OF THE FOAM ADDS STRUCTURE,
CAUSING THE BOAT TO BECOME UNSINKABLE.
USING A HOIST, TECHNICIANS INSTALL THE DECK
OF A LARGE, POWERFUL ELECTRIC BOAT.
THE DECK LIP SLIDES OVER THE TOP OF THE HULL.
DEPENDING ON THE BOAT MODEL,
THE MANUFACTURER USES EITHER LITHIUM-ION
OR LEAD-ACID BATTERIES AS A POWER SOURCE.
A SPECIALIST INSTALLS A SERIES OF MARINE-GRADE
DC31 LEAD-ACID BATTERIES.
AT 6 VOLTS, 225 AMPS,
THEY'RE SIMILAR TO BATTERIES USED IN CARS.
BY CONTRAST, THE 7.7-KILOWATT LITHIUM-ION BATTERIES
PACK A CHARGE OF 48 VOLTS.
THE BATTERIES ARE INSTALLED UNDER THE SEATS.
TO CREATE A WATERTIGHT SEAL BETWEEN THE DECK TO THE HULL,
A CRAFTSMAN INSTALLS A RUBBER BUMPER
AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE BOAT.
HOLES HAVE BEEN PRE-DRILLED TO AVOID CRACKING
WHEN INSTALLATION IS COMPLETE.
THIS MANUFACTURER SOURCES THEIR MOTORS
FROM AN OUTSIDE ELECTRIC-MOTOR COMPANY,
WHICH ALSO BUILDS MOTORS FOR CARS.
THE FIN, MADE OF ALUMINUM ENCASED IN MARINE-GRADE RUBBER,
IS INSTALLED ON THE BOTTOM OF THE MOTOR.
THE PROPELLER ATTACHES TO THE MOTOR WITH A ZINC NUT.
TWO CIRCUIT BOARDS LOCATED ON BOARD
WILL SEND INSTRUCTIONS TO THE MOTOR.
A WATERPROOF COVER IS PLACED ON TOP OF THE CIRCUIT BOARDS
FOR ADDED PROTECTION.
LOCKNUTS WITH NYLON WASHERS WILL PREVENT UNNECESSARY VIBRATIONS
WHILE THE MOTOR IS ON.
WITH THE STEERING CABLES INSTALLED,
THE ENTIRE UNIT PIVOTS RIGHT AND LEFT,
ALLOWING THE PILOT ON DECK TO STEER.
THE POWERFUL MOTOR IS EQUIVALENT
TO A 10-HORSEPOWER COMBUSTION ENGINE,
AND BECAUSE IT SITS IN THE WATER,
IT STAYS COOL AND QUIET.
FINALLY, A CRAFTSWOMAN PLACES THE BOAT'S SUN CANOPY
OVER THE FRAMEWORK.
THIS WILL ALLOW CUSTOMERS TO ADD SOLAR PANELS
FOR CHARGING THE BOAT.
ALSO, A CUSTOMER CAN CHOOSE THE COLORS
FOR BOTH THEIR CANOPIES AND UPHOLSTERY.
THERE'S NO DENYING THAT ELECTRIC BOATS
ARE THE FUTURE OF FUN ON THE WATER.
Narrator: MODERN FENCING IS A SPORT
CONSISTING OF THREE DISCIPLINES, ONE OF WHICH IS FOIL FENCING.
WHILE IN PLAY, A LIGHTWEIGHT FOIL SWORD
IS USED TO SCORE POINTS.
POINTS CAN BE SCORED WHEN THE TIP OF A PLAYER'S SWORD
MAKES CONTACT ONTO THEIR OPPONENT'S TORSO.
A FENCING FOIL IS A PIECE OF EQUIPMENT
THAT SHOULD ONLY BE USED BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS.
THIS SWORD DOESN'T HAVE A SHARP EDGE OR POINTED TIP.
IT'S ALL ABOUT SCORING HITS.
FENCING FOILS ARE MADE OUT OF THIN STEEL BARS.
THE STEEL IS A LOW-CARBON, NICKEL-RICH ALLOY
THAT'S STRONG YET FLEXIBLE.
AN AUTOMATED SAW CUTS THE BARS TO A LENGTH OF 35 INCHES.
THE BAR WILL BE STRETCHED AND SHORTENED AS IT'S TRANSFORMED.
A FORGE HEATS AND HAMMERS THE HILT END TO A ROUND SHAPE,
LEAVING THE REST OF THE ROD RECTANGULAR.
HERE YOU CAN SEE THE DIFFERENCE IN THE ROD'S SHAPE.
ANOTHER FORGING MACHINE SOFTENS THE END OF THE ROD
AND PUSHES THE BLADE THROUGH A SERIES OF HAMMERS.
THIS TAPERS THE BLADE AND STRETCHES THE STEEL,
DOUBLING IT IN SIZE.
AN OPERATOR CLAMPS THE TAPERED BLADE IN A JIG
TO HOLD IT STRAIGHT WHILE THE STEEL COOLS.
THEN THE OPERATOR SLICES THE HILT END TO LENGTH.
THE EXCESS STEEL WILL BE RECYCLED INTO NEW SWORDS.
NEXT, THE BLADES ARE HEATED IN A 932-DEGREE OVEN.
THIS STEP REMOVES STRESSES
AND MAKES THE METAL LESS BRITTLE.
AFTER A SECOND HEATING,
THE BLADES SOAK IN OIL TO COOL AND HARDEN.
THE EXPOSURE TO INTENSE HEAT CAUSES A RUSTY SCALE
TO FORM ON THE BLADE, SO TECHNICIANS CLEAN IT OFF.
A SWORD MAKER CLAMPS THE BLADES IN A DISC GRINDER.
THE GRINDER CARVES A FINE GROOVE FROM THE HILT TO THE TIP.
THE GROOVE WILL HOUSE A WIRE FOR THE ELECTRIC SCORING SYSTEM.
THE BLADE IS CLEANED TO REMOVE
ANY REMAINING SURFACE IMPERFECTIONS.
A SPINNING BELT COATED WITH AN ABRASIVE
GRINDS ALL FOUR SIDES OF THE BLADE.
THEN THE SWORD IS POLISHED
USING A BUFFING WHEEL AND POLISHING COMPOUND.
YOU CAN SEE THE DIFFERENCE THIS MAKES IN THE BLADE ON THE RIGHT.
THE CRAFTSMAN HAMMERS THE BLADE AGAINST AN ANVIL
TO STRAIGHTEN OUT ANY KINKS.
THEN HE INSPECTS THE BLADE.
IF NEEDED, THE CRAFTSMAN WILL MAKE ADJUSTMENTS
TO THE BLADE WITH A HAMMER.
NOW IT'S TIME TO WORK ON THE HILT END OF THE BLADE.
ANOTHER CRAFTSMAN LOCKS THE END OF THE BLADE IN A THREADING DIE,
APPLIES LUBRICANT,
AND ACTIVATES THE AUTOMATED SYSTEM.
THE SYSTEM TURNS THE SWORD IN THE DIE, CARVING OUT THREADS.
THEN THE THREADED HILT IS CUT TO LENGTH.
AT THE NEXT STATION, A COMPUTERIZED LASER ENGRAVES
THE COMPANY LOGO INTO THE STEEL.
AFTER THE SENSOR BARREL IS INSTALLED
ON THE END OF THE SWORD
AND THE ELECTRICAL SCORING WIRE IS PLACED IN THE GROOVE,
THE TECHNICIAN APPLIES GLUE TO KEEP THE WIRE SECURE.
THE SWORD BLADE IS PLACED IN A RACK
THAT HOLDS IT IN A BOW-LIKE BEND.
THIS STEP WILL GIVE THE GLUED WIRE
THE FLEXIBILITY IT NEEDS
TO BEND WITH THE REST OF THE SWORD WHILE IN USE.
AFTER THE BLADE HAS CURED, A PRESSURE SENSOR SPRING
IS INSERTED INTO THE BARREL AND CAPPED WITH A SENSOR BUTTON.
THE TECHNICIAN USES SCREWS TO HOLD THE COMPONENTS TOGETHER.
TO ASSEMBLE THE HILT,
THE SCORING WIRE IS THREADED THROUGH A HOLE IN THE GUARD
SO IT CAN EASILY SLIDE INTO PLACE.
THEN THE SENSOR WIRE IS CONNECTED TO A SOCKET.
THE WIRING ASSEMBLY IS COVERED WITH A PLASTIC PAD
THAT ALLOWS THE SOCKET TO PROTRUDE.
FINALLY, THE PISTOL-GRIP HANDLE
IS SCREWED INTO THE THREADED END OF THE BLADE.
THIS FENCING FOIL IS NOW READY FOR TESTING.
THE TECHNICIAN PLUGS THE FENCING FOIL INTO TESTING EQUIPMENT,
THEN HE PLACES A ONE-POUND WEIGHT ON THE SENSOR BUTTON
AND CHECKS TO SEE IF IT RESPONDS.
AND THE RESULTS ARE IN.
THIS FENCING FOIL IS NOW READY TO STAND UP TO ITS COMPETITION.
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