All language subtitles for How.Its.Made.S29E08.Flying.Water.Bikes.and.Rasps.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP2.0.H.264-SLAG_track4_[eng]

--Captions by VITAC--
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CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
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Narrator: LOOKING TO GET HIGH
ON A NEW WATER SPORT?

WELL, YOU LITERALLY CAN
RIDING A FLYING WATER BIKE.

IT ATTACHES WITH A LONG HOSE
TO THE BACK OF A JET SKI,

ELEVATING YOU UP TO ALMOST
40 FEET ABOVE THE WATER

WHERE YOU CAN PERFORM
AERIAL FLIPS AND SPINS.

THE JET SKI'S WATER THRUST
FEEDS THREE JET NOZZLES

ON THE FLYING WATER BIKE.

ONE PROPELS THE BIKE UPWARD.

THE OTHER TWO FEED JET CONTROL
NOZZLES THAT MANEUVER THE BIKE.

THE BIKE'S FRAME IS MADE
OUT OF ALUMINUM PARTS

BECAUSE IT HAS TO BE LIGHTWEIGHT

AS WELL AS RELATIVELY
CORROSION-RESISTANT,

ESPECIALLY IF IT IS GOING
TO BE USED IN SALTWATER.

THIS CURVED TUBE
WILL BECOME THE LIFTING JET.

TO BUILD EACH
JET CONTROL NOZZLE,

A WORKER PLACES A HOUSING
ON AN ALIGNMENT FIXTURE

THEN HAMMERS AN ENDCAP
INTO POSITION.

HOLDING THE HOUSING STEADY
WITH A CLAMP,

THE WORKER WELDS ON THE ENDCAP.

THIS HOUSING WILL COVER
THE BUSHING AT THE HEART

OF THE JET-CONTROL NOZZLE.

HE INSERTS AN ELBOW INTO
THE OPENING IN THE ENDCAP

AND WELDS THE PARTS TOGETHER.

AFTER WELDING A JET NOZZLE CONE
TO THE OTHER END OF THE ELBOW,

HE WELDS A HANDLEBAR
TO THE HOUSING.

THESE FIVE WELDED PARTS
MAKE UP THE BODY

OF THE FIRST JET CONTROL NOZZLE.

TO PREP FOR PAINTING,
THE MANUFACTURERS ROUGH UP

ALL THE ALUMINUM PARTS

BY TUMBLING THEM
WITH ABRASIVE STONES.

THIS COMPONENT SPLITS
THE PORTION OF THE WATER THRUST

THAT BYPASSES THE LIFTING JET,

SENDING IT
IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS

TO THE JET CONTROL NOZZLES.

THE LIFTING JET TUBE NOW HAS
A NOZZLE CONE WELDED TO ONE END,

A COUPLING FOR ATTACHING
THE FIRE HOSE TO THE OTHER,

AND AN OVAL HOLE IN THE CURVE,

WHICH ALIGNS WITH THE ANGLED END
OF A STRAIGHT TUBE

IN THE MIDDLE,
CALLED THE BACKBONE.

AFTER POSITIONING
PARALLEL SUPPORT BARS

BETWEEN THE LIFTING JET

AND THE SPLITTER, THE WELDER
FUSES ALL THE PARTS TOGETHER.

THEN HE FLIPS THE ASSEMBLY JIG
AND WELDS ON THE SEAT SUPPORT.

THE SEAT SUPPORT ATTACHES
WHERE THE LIFTING JET

AND BACKBONE MEET.

AFTER MASKING THE ENDS
OF THE SPLITTER,

A WORKER SPRAYS THE COMPLETED
FRAME, JET CONTROL NOZZLES

AND OTHER ALUMINUM PARTS
WITH POWDER COAT.

THIS HELPS PROTECT
AGAINST CORROSION.

THE PARTS GO INTO AN OVEN
FOR UP TO A HALF HOUR

TO BAKE THE POWDER COAT
TO A SHINY FINISH.

THEN WORKERS INSTALL
AN ALUMINUM CAMLOCK

TO SECURELY FASTEN
THE FIRE HOSE TO THE COUPLING.

ANOTHER WORKER ATTACHES
THE REMAINING COMPONENTS

TO THE FRAME.

FIRST, HE SCREWS IN THE PAIR
OF FOOTPLATES

ON WHICH THE RIDER STANDS.

THEN HE BOLTS THE BOTTOM
HALF OF EACH PLATE

TO THE PARALLEL SUPPORT BARS

AND THE TOP HALF TO
JUST AHEAD OF THE CAMLOCK.

HE MOUNTS A PADDED KNEE
REST TO THE SUPPORT BARS.

IT CAN BE EASILY REPOSITIONED TO
ACCOMMODATE THE RIDER'S HEIGHT.

ON EACH UNPAINTED END
OF THE SPLITTER,

HE INSTALLS
AN INTERNAL SUPPORT RING,

THEN A PRECISION-FIT NYLON
BUSHING

AND AN EXTERNAL SUPPORT RING,

WHICH HE SCREWS TO THE SPLITTER.

THE WORKER SLIDES
THE JET CONTROL NOZZLE HOUSING

OVER THE BUSHING AND SCREWS IT
TO THE INTERNAL SUPPORT RING.

THE TWO CONTROL NOZZLES
MANEUVER THE WATER BIKE.

TO ASCEND, YOU PULL BACK
GRADUALLY ON BOTH OF THEM,

SIMULTANEOUSLY.

TO DESCEND, YOU PUSH
FORWARD ON BOTH.

TO SPIN, YOU MOVE ONE
FORWARD AND ONE BACK.

AND TO DO A BACKFLIP,

YOU YANK BOTH CONTROL NOZZLES
ALL THE WAY BACK.

HE ASSEMBLES THE WATER
BIKE'S BODY.

IT'S MADE OF MOLDED POLYETHYLENE
WITH A WATERPROOF URETHANE PAD

TO CUSHION THE FRONT
OF THE RIDER'S BODY.

THE SEAT IS MADE OF THE SAME
PADDED MATERIAL.

BOTH PAD AND SEAT ATTACH
WITH PLASTIC CLIPS.

THE HOLLOW BODY IS
COMPLETELY WATERTIGHT,

WHICH IS WHY THE BIKE FLOATS.

THE FINAL STEP IS TO MATE
THE BODY TO THE FRAME.

THE COMPLETED WATER BICYCLE
WEIGHS 30 POUNDS.

ONCE CONNECTED TO A JET SKI
WITH THE FIRE HOSE,

THIS WATER BIKE FLIES AT A SPEED
OF UP TO 20 MILES PER HOUR.

BY MANEUVERING THE JET NOZZLES,
IT DOES BACKFLIPS,

MULTIPLE SPINS,

AND EVEN DIVES
20 FEET UNDERWATER.

Narrator: A THROTTLE POSITION
SENSOR REPORTS THE POSITION

OF THE THROTTLE PLATE
TO THE ENGINE COMPUTER

SO THAT IT CAN DECIDE
HOW MUCH FUEL

TO INJECT INTO THE ENGINE
AND MANY OTHER THINGS.

WITHOUT THIS CRITICAL SENSOR,
THE RATIO OF THE AIR-FUEL MIX

WOULD BE COMPROMISED,

AND THE ENGINE
WOULD LIKELY STALL.

IN INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINES,
THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

IS ON CONSTANT ALERT,

SENDING THE NECESSARY POWER
DEMANDS TO ENSURE A SMOOTH RIDE.

MAKING THESE SENSORS STARTS
WITH PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS.

THESE BOARDS WILL ULTIMATELY
PROCESS PHYSICAL DATA

AND CONVERT THIS
INTO INFORMATION

THE ENGINE COMPUTER
WILL UNDERSTAND.

A ROBOT TRANSFERS THE BOARDS
TO A CONVEYOR

WHICH TAKES THEM TO
A SOLDER SCREEN PRINTER.

THE PRINTER SQUEEGEES SOLDER
THROUGH A STENCIL TO DEPOSIT

IT IN SPECIFIC LOCATIONS
ON THE BOARDS.

THE SQUEEGEE AND STENCIL
THEN RETRACT,

AND THE CONVEYOR SHOVES
THE BOARDS FORWARD

TO THE NEXT OPERATION.

HERE, A ROBOT RETRIEVES
ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS FROM TAPE

ON A REEL AND DEPOSITS

THEM ON THE SOLDERED
SPOTS ON THE BOARDS.

IT COLLECTS MULTIPLE PARTS
FROM THE REEL AT ONE TIME

AND INSTALLS THEM ON THE BOARDS

FASTER THAN YOU CAN
BLINK AN EYE.

MOVING FORWARD,
THE PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS

ARRIVE AT A CAMERA STATION.

THE CAMERA CLICKS AWAY
AND SENDS PICTURES OF THE BOARDS

TO A COMPUTER.

THE COMPUTER ANALYZES
THE PLACEMENT OF EACH COMPONENT.

WITH THE COMPUTER'S OKAY,
THE BOARDS HEAD INTO AN OVEN

WITH DIFFERENT HEATING ZONES.

THE OVEN MELTS THE SOLDER
AND THEN COOLS IT DOWN

TO FUSE THE COMPONENTS
TO THE BOARDS.

THE OVEN THEN EJECTS
THE SENSOR BOARDS.

NEXT, A TECHNICIAN SERVES THEM
UP TO AUTOMATED TEST PROBES.

THE PROBES ENERGIZE
THE COMPONENTS ON THE BOARDS

AND, IN THE PROCESS,
COLLECT INFORMATION.

THEY SEND THE DATA
TO A COMPUTER,

WHICH ANALYZES THE FUNCTION OF
THE COMPONENTS ON THE BOARD

AND TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE
FULLY OPERATIONAL.

THEN THE BOARDS MOVE
TO A PNEUMATIC PUNCH.

IT SEPARATES THE 18
SENSOR CIRCUIT BOARDS

BY CUTTING THE TABS
THAT HOLD THEM TOGETHER.

A WORKER ASSEMBLES
A METAL SPRING

TO A PLASTIC MAGNET HOLDER.

HE PLACES A HIGH-WEAR WASHER
OVER THE NECK THE MAGNET HOLDER.

THEN HE INSERTS THE MAGNET
HOLDER ASSEMBLY

INTO THE THROTTLE-SENSOR HOUSING
AND PLACES THE UNIT IN A TRAY.

AFTER GLUE HAS BEEN INJECTED IN
THE HOLDERS, A ROBOT MOVES IN.

IT SCANS THE HOLDERS
AND CONFIRMS

THAT THERE IS GLUE
IN EACH CAVITY.

IT THEN INSERTS MAGNETS
IN THE HOLDERS.

A WORKER INSTALLS A TORSION
SPRING IN THE HOUSING.

IT WILL HOLD THE MAGNET HOLDER
TIGHT TO THE THROTTLE BODY.

HE NOW INSERTS THE PRINTED
CIRCUIT BOARDS

INTO THE SENSOR HOUSINGS.

TERMINALS IN THE HOUSINGS MATE
TO SLOTS IN THE BOARDS.

HE SOLDERS THE TERMINALS
TO THE BOARDS

TO ESTABLISH THE CONNECTIONS.

ALL THE PARTS ARE NOW IN PLACE
FOR THROTTLE POSITION SENSING.

A WORKER PLACES COVERS OVER
THE SENSOR BOARD COMPARTMENTS.

AN ULTRASONIC WELDER THEN MELTS
THE PLASTIC AT THE INTERFACES.

ONCE IT HARDENS, THE WELD BONDS
THE COVER TO THE SENSOR BODY.

A ROBOT PIPES SILICONE ADHESIVE
ON THE WELDED SEAM

TO CREATE A DOUBLE
LAYER OF PROTECTION.

THE SENSORS RIDE ON A CONVEYOR
THAT GOES THROUGH AN OVEN.

THIS CURES BOTH THE SILICONE
ON THE WELDED SEAM

AND THE GLUE INSIDE TO SECURE
THE MAGNET TO THE HOLDER.

OUT OF THE OVEN,
THE SENSORS TRAVEL THROUGH

A COOLING STATION.

PROBES THEN POWER THE DEVICES
AND CALIBRATE THEM

FOR USE IN SPECIFIC VEHICLES.

A ROBOT HOLDS THE SENSOR
IN FRONT OF A LASER,

WHICH ETCHES THE DATE
OF MANUFACTURE.

BACK ON A CONVEYOR, THE THROTTLE
POSITION SENSOR TRAVELS

UNDER A MAGNIFYING GLASS

SO THAT THE LASER-ETCHING JOB
CAN BE SCRUTINIZED.

THIS THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
IS NOW READY FOR DETECTION DUTY.

Narrator: CINNAMON CORDIAL
MARRIES THE PUNGENT FLAVOR

OF ONE OF OUR FAVORITE
SPICES WITH ALCOHOL.

THINK OF IT AS THE LIQUEUR
EQUIVALENT OF A CINNAMON BUN.

ON ITS OWN OR AS IN INGREDIENT
IN A SPECIALTY DRINK,

CINNAMON CORDIAL CAN ADD SOME
SERIOUS SPICE TO COCKTAIL HOUR.

CINNAMON CORDIAL IS
THE DISTILLED SPIRIT

THAT IS BOTH SWEET AND SPICY.

IT'S THIS COMPLEXITY OF FLAVOR

THAT IS AT THAT HEART
OF ITS APPEAL.

THIS PARTICULAR CINNAMON CORDIAL

STARTS WITH A BLEND
OF CALIFORNIA

GRAPE BRANDY THAT'S BEEN
AGED FOR 2 YEARS.

THE DISTILLER MEASURES
THE AMOUNT THE RECIPE CALLS FOR

AND POURS THE BRANDY INTO
THE MAIN PRODUCTION VESSEL.

HE THEN PUMPS NEUTRAL
GRAIN SPIRITS

OUT OF A BIG HOLDING TANK

AND INTO THE MEASURING BUCKET.

THIS SPIRIT IS 190 PROOF,

WHICH MEANS THAT IT IS
95 PERCENT ALCOHOL.

HE ADDS IT TO THE GRAPE BRANDY.

TOGETHER, THE BRANDY
AND THE NEUTRAL SPIRITS

WILL SERVE AS THE ALCOHOL BASE
FOR THE CINNAMON CORDIAL.

THE BRANDY CONTRIBUTES COLOR
AND A LITTLE FLAVOR

WHILE THE CLEAR SPIRITS
ADD POTENCY.

NEXT UP ARE THE SPICES THAT
PROVIDE A FIRST LAYER OF FLAVOR.

USING A SCALE,

THE DISTILLER MEASURES
THE AMOUNTS FOR THE RECIPE,

BEGINNING WITH WHOLE CORIANDER,

A SPICE THAT WILL IMPART
A CITRUSY

ZEST TO THE CINNAMON CORDIAL.

THE NEXT INGREDIENT IS CLOVES.

THIS SPICE HAS A SWEET
AND PEPPERY ESSENCE.

FINALLY, HE ADDS DRY BAY LEAVES.

HE CRUMBLES THEM TO RELEASE
THEIR HERBAL FRAGRANCE.

THESE THREE SPICES
WILL ULTIMATELY PROVIDE

BACKGROUND FLAVOR,

WHILE THE CINNAMON
THAT'S TO BE ADDED LATER

WILL BE THE MAIN EVENT.

THE DISTILLER REOPENS
THE PRODUCTION TANK AND DRAPES

A MESH NYLON SACHET
OVER THE OPENING.

HE POURS THE CAREFULLY
MEASURED SPICES INTO THE BAG,

AND THEY BECOME IMMERSED
IN THE ALCOHOL.

HE DRAWS THE BAG OF SPICES SHUT

AND LEAVES IT IN
THE ALCOHOL FOR 2 WEEKS.

DURING THIS TIME,

THE ALCOHOL EXTRACTS
FLAVORS FROM THE SPICES.

STAYING TRUE TO THE RECIPE
IS CRITICAL.

ADDING TOO MUCH OF ONE SPICE

OR LEAVING THE SPICES
IN THE ALCOHOL

FOR TOO LONG
COULD RUIN THE BATCH.

AFTER STEEPING, THE LIQUEUR
IS READY FOR THE CINNAMON SPICE.

HE ADDS TWO KINDS -- CASSIA,
WHICH IS FROM INDONESIA,

CHINA, AND VIETNAM,

AND CEYLON CINNAMON,
WHICH ORIGINATES IN SRI LANKA.

HE BREAKS UP
THE CINNAMON TREE BARK

TO INCREASE THE SURFACE
AREA FOR STEEPING.

HE ALSO ADDS TWO DIFFERENT
POWDERED CINNAMONS

FOR EXTRA FLAVOR AND COLOR.

HE NOW MAKES SIMPLE SYRUP
FROM ORGANIC SUGAR AND WATER

AND ADDS IT TO THE MIXTURE.

THIS SYRUP PROVIDES SWEETNESS
AND DILUTES THE ALCOHOL CONTENT

SUBSTANTIALLY,
BRINGING IT DOWN TO 68 PROOF.

HE LEAVES THE BLEND
TO STEEP FOR A WEEK.

DURING THIS TIME, HE SAMPLES
THE BEVERAGE DAILY TO CONFIRM

THAT THE DRINK
IS DEVELOPING CORRECTLY

AND THAT THE CINNAMON FLAVOR
IS PROPERLY BALANCED.

THE COLOR CHANGE DURING
THIS WEEK IS DRAMATIC,

AND IT'S AN INDICATION OF
THE CORDIAL'S DEEPENING FLAVOR.

WHEN THE TASTE AND COLOR
SEEM JUST RIGHT,

HE REMOVES THE SPICES AND PUMPS

THE CINNAMON CORDIAL
INTO 25-OUNCE BOTTLES.

THIS BOTTLING SYSTEM
IS EQUIPPED WITH A FILTER

TO REMOVE ANY IMPURITIES.

ONCE FULL, HE CORKS THE BOTTLE.

USING A SPECIAL LABELING
MACHINE, HE ROLLS ON THE LABEL

THAT IDENTIFIES
THE PRODUCT FOR MARKETING.

HE THEN HEAT-SHRINKS A PLASTIC
SEAL AROUND THE CORK.

HE PUTS A SIGNATURE ON IT,
AND THIS CINNAMON CORDIAL

IS READY FOR
THE COCKTAIL CIRCUIT.

Narrator: TOUR THE WORKSHOP OF
A CABINETMAKER OR WOODCARVER,

AND YOU'RE SURE TO COME
ACROSS A COLLECTION OF RASPS.

A RASP IS A HAND TOOL WITH TEETH
THAT YOU PUSH FORWARD

WITH PRESSURE
OVER WOOD TO SHAPE IT.

RASPS COME IN VARIOUS TEXTURES,
CALLED GRAINS,

RANGING FROM COARSE TO FINE.

MACHINE-MADE RASPS
MAY SUFFICE FOR HOBBYISTS,

BUT FINE WOODWORKING REQUIRES
PREMIUM RASPS LIKE THESE,

WHICH ARE MADE ENTIRELY BY HAND.

A RASP STARTS OUT AS A STEEL
BAR, CALLED A BLANK.

FIRST, A WORKER HEATS ONE END
OF THE BLANK IN AN OVEN

AT A TEMPERATURE
OF APPROXIMATELY

1,500 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.

WHEN THE STEEL GLOWS SOMEWHERE
BETWEEN ORANGE AND RED,

HE IMMEDIATELY CUTS THE END
TO A CRUDE POINT WITH A PRESS.

THEN HE PLACES THE END
UNDER A SPRING HAMMER

WHICH STRIKES IT
REPEATEDLY AGAINST A DIE,

FORGING THE CRUDE POINT
TO A REFINED ONE.

AFTER REPEATING THESE STEPS
ON THE OPPOSITE END...

HE INSERTS THE BLANK
INTO A SHEARING MACHINE.

THIS CUTS ACROSS THE MIDDLE,

DIVIDING THE BLANK
INTO TWO FLAT RASPS,

EACH WITH A POINTED END
AND A FLAT END.

THE WORKER PUTS THE FLAT
END INTO THE OVEN.

ONCE IT REACHES
WORKING TEMPERATURE,

HE PLACES IT IN A PRESS.

THE FIRST STRIKE TAPERS THE END.

THE SECOND CUTS OFF STEEL
TO FORM THE TOOL'S HANDLE,

CALLED THE TANG.

THE RASP SHAPE IS FULLY FORGED.

AN EXPERIENCED CRAFTSMAN
NOW BEGINS REFINING IT.

FIRST, HE RUNS IT AGAINST
A GRINDING WHEEL

TO REMOVE EXCESS STEEL.

BECAUSE STEEL WARPS
IN THE FORGING PROCESS,

HE HAMMERS ALONG THE TANG,

POINT, AND LENGTH
TO STRAIGHTEN THE RASP.

THIS STEP IS CRITICAL
FOR STRUCTURAL STRENGTH

BECAUSE IF THE GRAIN OF THE
STEEL ISN'T PERFECTLY STRAIGHT,

THE RASP WILL WARP WHEN
THE CRAFTSMAN LATER HARDENS

THE STEEL BY TEMPERING.

ONCE THE RASP IS STRAIGHT,

HE GRINDS THE FLAT SURFACES
ON A GRINDING BELT.

THEN HE RETURNS TO
THE GRINDING WHEEL

TO REMOVE EXCESS STEEL
AROUND THE POINT.

BY THE TIME HE COMPLETES
THIS STEP,

THE POINT IS TRANSFORMED
FROM THIS TO THIS.

AFTER ADDITIONAL GRINDING
TO POLISH AWAY THE MARKS,

IT'S TIME TO GIVE
THE RASP SOME TEETH.

THIS PROCESS, KNOWN AS
STITCHING THE RASP,

IS A HIGHLY SPECIALIZED SKILL

THAT REQUIRES
EXCEPTIONAL DEXTERITY.

THE STITCHERS FORM
EVERY SINGLE TOOTH BY HAND

WITH A SINGLE HAMMER
STRIKE ON A PUNCH.

THE PUNCH SHAPE AND SIZE
DETERMINES

THE TOOTH SHAPE AND SIZE.

THE HAMMER SIZE DETERMINES
TOOTH HEIGHT.

A HEAVIER HAMMER FORCES
THE PUNCH DEEPER INTO THE STEEL,

FORMING A TALLER TOOTH.

THE LARGER AND DEEPER THE TEETH,

THE COARSER THE GRAIN
OF THE RASP.

THE ARTISANS STITCH THE RASP
A QUARTER SECTION AT A TIME

TO SET THE TEETH
AT THE PROPER ANGLE.

THE TOOTH ANGLE DIFFERS WHEN
THEY'RE MAKING A LEFT-HAND RASP

VERSUS A RIGHT-HAND RASP.

THE EXPERT CRAFTSMAN
NOW HAMMERS A SLIGHT CURVE

BACK INTO THE RASP.

IF LEFT STRAIGHT, IT WOULD CURVE
WHEN THEY TEMPER IT.

BY PREEMPTIVELY CURVING IT,

THE RASP WILL STRAIGHTEN
WHEN TEMPERED.

HE SUBMERGES THE RASP
IN A MOLTEN SALT BATH

INSIDE THE TEMPERING FURNACE.

SALT PREVENTS CONTACT
WITH OXYGEN,

WHICH BURNS OFF
THE CARBON IN THE STEEL,

THUS DESTROYING ITS PROPERTIES.

AFTER REMOVING THE RASP
FROM THE SALT BATH,

HE GRADUALLY COOLS IT

IN A QUENCHING TANK
FILLED WITH SALTWATER.

COOLING STEEL AT JUST THE RIGHT
SPEED AND DIRECTION IS CRITICAL.

TOO SLOW, IT DOESN'T
HARDEN SUFFICIENTLY.

TOO FAST, IT TWISTS OR WARPS.

HE DOES A FINAL
STRAIGHTENING IN A PRESS.

THE FINAL OPERATION IS
A VERY SOFT SANDBLASTING.

THIS REMOVES RESIDUE
FROM THE SALT BATH

AND TRANSFORMS THE SURFACE
FROM SHINY TO MATTE.

THESE HANDMADE RASPS
COME IN A MULTITUDE OF SHAPES

AND 15 DIFFERENT GRAINS
RANGING FROM COARSE TO FINE,

SO THE WOODWORKER CAN ALWAYS
SELECT THE RIGHT RASP

FOR THE TASK.