Original subtitles

When Christian Dior gives the word, hemlines drop from Brooklyn to Central Park.

How to get the new look, even if mother nature...

I am gonna say some things in English.

So, I am extremely looking forward,

I feel very humbled to stand here in front of you, um...

I can't wait to work with you.

He's been, truly important to me.

He's been with me, working in high-fashion for more than a decade.

I'm very happy to have him on my side.

It's because of the history of Dior that people are

utterly fascinated by what will happen at this house.

So, there is always that speculation about who would take over the house.

But really, I think it's about...

They know what kind of job this is.

They know what the heritage is. They know what... And they know what the expectations are.

Raf wasn't the obvious candidate. People said, "He's a minimalist."

You know, "Would he leave Jil Sander?"

And also people didn't know who Raf was.

I mean you have to remember, the people who really know about Raf are the people who covered menswear.

And who saw his shows in 1995, '96, '97, '98.

It was the beginning of the real revival of the skinny black suit.

You could say that, that was minimalism.

But I think it was that idea of energy, and something sort of new and modern.

And the other side of that though is, you have to think about what the Dior customer is.

What the history here is.

I think it's always been something very feminine, number one.

It's got a silhouette. It has shape to it.

Some, certain degree of embellishment and romance and extravagance.

And this will be interesting to watch, I think, at a house like Dior, where he has resources.

He does have the big stage, when you have a big stage, you step up. It asks you to do more.

No, it's nice to meet everybody. Yes.

Nice to meet you.

- Nice to see you. Fine. - How are you?

So we have a special paint to do that.

So, how many hours before the show it was finished? That one?

- Ooh, that I didn't like to hear. - What?

When somebody says, "It's short? Until July." I'm like, "Fuck!"

Okay so first, we will begin with the first collection.

The legacy of Dior, I find it, well... challenging.

I think it's really interesting and challenging, to face a legacy

which is so gigantic and so sublime.

This I have to say, I already expect it on the rack,

but I'm quite amazed how contemporary I find it still.

It's built in, but it's really...

- Yeah. - Just feel it.

- Cushions? - Yeah. Cushions.

But at the same time, I also wanted to have quite a radical approach

in terms of like modernizing it.

The whole idea about juxtapositioning something so specifically from that time

with something so specifically from this time, is for me, already modernity in itself.

I want it to become more dynamic, because I find women very dynamic now.

Pants and pockets and...

It's important for me that they can move easily.

I won't know what it is, pleated exactly to the length.

That's a good length.

The shorter the better.

- Yeah, that's beautiful. - It's very nice.

- It's very Diane... - Do you like that, Florence?

I do.

No, but the idea that a couture dress,

would be kind of made as a top,

it's for me more the idea of making a top out if it, or pants, or that it becomes more young.

A younger woman.

And I like also very much, this story...

I think that fashion in general is about dialogue.

That's why I also question people around me all the time.

And I question me, I guess also.

People in the 50's and the 60's saw the future as something very romantic.

You know, people would romanticize about living on the moon,

they would kind of dream about living on the moon,

and finding all that very romantic.

And that is also something that I see always for myself.

So in that sense, the past is not romantic for me, it is the future that is romantic for me.

A brand this big and this impactful on the fashion world,

to create...

To create the code.

I would like to see, if we can also develop things that look like that,

kind of, like, future, alien, flowery.

- We'll make samples for you. - Yeah?

The first runway that I do in Dior, I want the girls to be comfortable.

I don't want a guy to support them. I hate a feeling of a guy who supports them on the staircase.

It's comfortable. As 11 here can be comfortable. It means that it is comfortable.

There was no day that I'm not looking at art. I can't really explain it, because it's so in my system.

- So, that's the painting I love... I love so much. - Yes.

Yeah, I like this one.

It's something that relaxes me and inspires me.

And at the same time, it is also, I think, natural for me

to connect it with what I do.

Yes, Yes, I will run up the stairs.

He doesn't touch the painting.

They're done with spray cans.

I'm looking through all the paintings,

because what I'm going to do is, there is this couture fabric that Mr. Christian Dior used a lot.

And then it gets woven, so you get this slight movement in it.

And I think it has the quality of a brush stroke.

And so I'm kind of trying to convince them, to have like hall painting.

This is the fabric. Which I adore.

- Because it takes the color so deep. - Yes, deep.

- And also, like, you know, it gives light. - Yeah.

- The real work. - This technique.

If we print in, we're going to imitate the warp printing,

but you will have the effect, but not the deepness. You see?

No, I really prefer exactly this.

- So, we have to... - This is too...

Challenge? New couture.

So, this is what Raf likes.

And it's like mixing your elements in a different way.

- There are seven different skirts. - Yes.

No! Please!

The look of a Sterling Ruby painting

is maybe not something that you would immediately expect in couture.

The colors could be compared to flowers or could be compared to a flower,

but it has something quite, rough in a way also.

That was spread out and that was you know like a certain kind of aggression in a way.

- They're scared to take it on. - I don't think they can do this.

And they said it's not possible to know how many colors, there is in the print.

They said it's too hard to realize we have no time to make it.

I hope it will be okay.

But I don't want to give up. I never give up, until the first girl is on stage.

But if it's not working out, I mean you're never gonna have me with a mad face.

But we won't give up until the first girl goes on stage. That's the last minute.

- You're right. - That's the last minute.

So we're gonna challenge Bucols, and if they finally can't do it and they can't make it

or it's technically not okay or whatever, big smile at the show...

Seriously, I like that.

But I also keep on hearing, constantly, "They're bringing the dresses now, they're bringing the dresses now."

Honestly, still don't see them.

Can you call Madame Riviere to come to me?

Where can we find space alone? Here we'll be alone.

Yeah, I don't know how the system works, for me it's all new, but if a whole fitting is...

If a whole fitting is slower, for 15 dresses because of one client in New York, I don't agree.

Oops.

Because our client, she was traveling to New York, and then she told us...

It has to be solved. It has to be solved, one way or another.

They cannot keep on sending out premieres if they are to be...

Maybe it's a matter of who is going to be sent out to the client.

If you send a premiere out to the client, ateliers stand still.

Send just another premiere to the client.

Premiere keeps the ateliers running.

- So she can't say no... - But you can also not say no to me, I'm sorry.

I know, I know, but...

There they are.

Stand next to each other.

The newest workshop in the first season... in the first season is always a bit like that.

Especially in the first, first season of course, but...

But it's fun, but it's heavy. It's heavy.

I think it's very romantic in a way, because it's very much about what, I think,

the founder of the company was about.

I mean, it sounds almost pretentious, I hate this because

I don't want to suggest in any way

that I am talented enough

to compare myself with Mr. Christian Dior,

but I do think that, the way he approached femininity,

as the ultimate starting point,

I found very, freeing.

Because I also found myself in the last couple of years,

in a situation where the audience sees me as a minimalist.

And...

I'm not.

I mean in a way, I find it quite...

Um...

surprising.

Did I take on a minimal brand? Yes. Yes.

But does that mean that I am only about minimalism?

Well, let them judge after the show, I would say.

Beautiful?

He was describing things, "I thought, this is exactly how I do it."

You know what I mean? How he is in a certain situation.

About 15 pages and I already stopped.

More 50's.

But I like something like this, you know, because all the dirt is something that you can take care of.

It's very dirty?

Bit of paint.

I have an idea. But it's very extreme.

Very difficult, I think.

- Yes. - Yeah.

Everything inside is flower. Everything. Everything.

You walk in and it's all flower. Everything.

That is genius? So you walk from one space to the other and one space is like,

all white orchids, then the next one is all pink roses.

And the next one is multicolor.

And the smell...

That could be amazing. Amazing.

Nice, no? It's just like kind of the negative of the Jeff Koons, "Puppy."

Like you walk in and it's all that.

Can you imagine this one in flowers?

This is fantastic. This space.

He's gonna like that. Like all flowers, like, you know, it's gonna look like, Versailles.

It's gonna look like the fucking "Puppy" in Versailles.

That's how it's gonna look. It's insane.

More gentle, more like... I know it's difficult...

It's pleated in the back as well.

Let's have a walk.

Can you come to me?

My favorite thing.

Aha!

It's realistic.

The situation is realistic.

But it's possible. I mean, yes, the answer is yes.

Technically we know how to do it, correct?

So, this is the test.

So, this is the test.

How long it takes to do it?

How long?

You mean to prepare it? You can do it before and bring it? No?

You have to do it...

At the end, the whole thing...

It's just a matter of Sidney or Mr. Arnault liking it or not.

No?

It's okay to be a character. It's like being in a play all the time.

But it's best if you write your own lines.

What was the second one?

Is this the real me? Fashion says that you can be somebody completely different.

- My Dior... - Is my Dior...

- Is my Dior. - Is my Dior.

My Dior, is my Dior, is my Dior, is mine.

- Dior. - Mine. - Yeah.

There's one thing I really don't want to do.

Being shot, being filmed.

It's intimidating for me. Especially if it's with people I don't know.

Okay.

- Okay, after I have... - Everything for the occasion is fixed, right Olivier?

Yeah, we're doing it there. That is confirmed.

- And now it's okay? - Yes.

- I have to know something else, it's an important thing. - Yeah?

What is the minimum for me to come greet the audience, to not disappoint Mr. Arnault?

Because I'm not gonna walk like a clown all through those spaces. That's not gonna happen.

I'm not going to... I don't want the catwalk. I cannot do it.

Unless you want me fainted at that place, in front of these bunch of cameras.

Because it's not going to happen.

I can just pop in everywhere.

One thing I will never do, I will not go through the whole thing. I can't, I faint.

We have to go to every space to see.

We have for you...

There's a long distance. It's like a walk through the desert with a dry mouth.

That, if I have to do that. That I know for sure.

Whatever I plan, it won't be in that moment like that.

But, like, okay. Let's see what's happening and...

I'll come out, don't worry. Yeah, yeah I will. Don't worry.

When there was a lot of tension around the show, it's very difficult,

and now you know, I know in advance like that day...

Wait, till that day is there.

What we would like to do

is to shoot one picture

after the show with six of our models and you,

on the flower, wall.

Which is the opening of the story.

That's, for me, that's my only way to try to negotiate

ten pages in Paris Match.

Which is huge.

It's a picture magazine. People keep it for the pictures. It's quite famous.

That's a story.

Anyway it's clear in content. It's your choice.

Yeah, but it doesn't feel like a choice, so let's do it then.

That will be different?

Only different thing?

Can we put a black fabric on the bar?

- Needle it perfectly into the curve. - Yeah, I need it to be perfect there.

How fast can they make the jacket in black?

- No, don't worry, don't stress... - Well, I am stressed about it.

Not stressed. But, you know, it is very important because it's the opening look.

- I know, it will work out perfectly. - It's the first impact.

Don't worry.

For Saturday morning.

No, we can spray it.

- Casting is second floor. - Okay, thank you.

Can you make in the middle of the space, a turn.

Walk around a little bit.

I think she's very beautiful, but you cannot have this kind of walk.

Is that manageable, that she does that okay in the first season?

She can walk up and down.

- Your first show ever? - Yeah.

Can we do it non-transparent in the front and transparent in the back?

We have a long way to go. I hope we have a long way to go, because I'm looking forward so much.

And... But the most important thing for me is to thank you for

the way you welcomed Pieter and Fulvio and me in your family.

Thank you.

We went a bit wild, didn't we?

I think...

Well, we have to clean this and then try and add something here, well, whatever.

Hi, I'm sorry! I'm just looking at the flowers.

- How are you? - Let's go in a little bit.

Okay, sure.

There's no...

Well, it smells fantastic.

- Is that a camera? - Yes, they filmed...

- Very secret. - Yeah, yeah.

- Good luck, good luck. - Okay.

Well, that's your call. If you think you should salute

all these people too, then I don't know if you should.

Ooh la la, la, la. Ooh!

Yeah, I tell you...

Standby for the light...

Raf, Pieter, are you ready?

- Julia, are you ready? - Yeah, yeah.

- Go. - Go, Julia.

Standby for music. Standby for Ariel.

Go.

When in the rooms, you go slowly.

You walk slowly. There in the steps...

Go.

- I have to go. I have to go. - Go, go, go, Raf.

Raf! Raf! Raf!

Raf! Raf! Raf!

- Hey! - It was amazing!

I came just for you.

Congratulations.

Congratulations! I can't believe you did it all.

Well done! Beautiful!

My God! I'm so honored to be here!

Raf! Raf! Raf!

My mom and my dad.