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1
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'My name is Levison Wood.'
2
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Whoa, that was steep.
3
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'In 2014 I walked the Nile -
4
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'from its source to the sea.'
5
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Yeah!
6
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'I saw the heart of Africa...'
7
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Take care.
8
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'..at eyelevel.'
9
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This is like being on Mars.
10
00:00:28,290 --> 00:00:31,330
'Now, I'm taking on an even
tougher journey.'
11
00:00:31,330 --> 00:00:33,170
This is hard going.
12
00:00:33,170 --> 00:00:34,850
Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa.
13
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'I'm walking the length...'
14
00:00:36,650 --> 00:00:38,770
It's absolutely phenomenal.
15
00:00:38,770 --> 00:00:41,610
'..of the Himalayas.
16
00:00:41,610 --> 00:00:45,610
'My route will trace the backbone
of an entire continent.
17
00:00:46,290 --> 00:00:48,610
'I want to walk 1,700 miles,
18
00:00:48,610 --> 00:00:51,810
'from the western peaks
in Afghanistan,
19
00:00:51,810 --> 00:00:55,730
'across snow-covered passes
and lush tropical foothills,
20
00:00:55,730 --> 00:00:59,730
'past Mount Everest, to end in the
secret Kingdom of Bhutan,
21
00:01:00,890 --> 00:01:04,890
'where the Himalayas drop into
the Tibetan Plateau.'
22
00:01:06,850 --> 00:01:09,770
Wow. That's something.
23
00:01:09,770 --> 00:01:13,770
'It will take me 4 million steps
to reach my goal.'
24
00:01:13,850 --> 00:01:16,970
Which nutcase came up with this idea?
25
00:01:16,970 --> 00:01:19,850
'I'll meet the people
who survive here...'
26
00:01:19,850 --> 00:01:21,810
Onwards.
27
00:01:21,810 --> 00:01:23,970
'..face dangers head on....'
28
00:01:23,970 --> 00:01:25,930
There's a very different feel here.
29
00:01:25,930 --> 00:01:27,250
Mines. Land mines?
30
00:01:27,250 --> 00:01:29,450
We should get out of the water now.
31
00:01:29,450 --> 00:01:32,410
'..and visit parts of the
world rarely seen.'
32
00:01:32,410 --> 00:01:34,770
It's almost biblical, isn't it?
33
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'I'll experience the majesty of
these mountains...'
34
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I'm speechless.
35
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'..and their ever-present danger.
36
00:01:45,290 --> 00:01:47,130
'On the first leg of my journey...'
37
00:01:47,130 --> 00:01:48,810
I'm cold and I'm wet.
38
00:01:48,810 --> 00:01:52,570
'..I'll walk a part of Afghanistan
the Taliban never captured...'
39
00:01:52,570 --> 00:01:54,730
I've never been drinking with
Afghans before.
40
00:01:54,730 --> 00:01:57,730
It turns out they can polish off
two bottles of whisky.
41
00:01:57,730 --> 00:02:00,690
'..discover a hidden
paradise in Pakistan...'
42
00:02:00,690 --> 00:02:04,210
This whole area is just
absolutely stunning.
43
00:02:04,210 --> 00:02:06,770
'..and take on the largest mountains
on earth.'
44
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I'm just struggling to get oxygen.
45
00:02:08,490 --> 00:02:12,490
This is brutal.
46
00:02:19,130 --> 00:02:23,130
'My journey starts in
Kabul, Afghanistan.
47
00:02:25,130 --> 00:02:29,130
'I'm heading to one of the world's
most remote regions.
48
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'Travelling by road is too dangerous,
49
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'and few guides dare venture there.
50
00:02:35,450 --> 00:02:39,450
'But I've persuaded one of
Afghanistan's best mountaineers
to join me.'
51
00:02:39,450 --> 00:02:40,650
Malang?
52
00:02:40,650 --> 00:02:42,410
'Malang Daria.'
53
00:02:42,410 --> 00:02:45,570
How you doing? I'm fine. All right?
Welcome. Excellent.
54
00:02:45,570 --> 00:02:48,330
Have you been in a helicopter before?
No, the first time.
55
00:02:48,330 --> 00:02:52,330
First time in a helicopter?
It's too old? Yeah, it's an old one.
56
00:02:52,330 --> 00:02:56,330
I hope it gets us there.
57
00:03:00,090 --> 00:03:04,090
'Malang's leaving his wife
and five children behind to join me
58
00:03:04,210 --> 00:03:07,450
'for the first 300 miles
of my journey.'
59
00:03:07,450 --> 00:03:11,090
That's my village! My village!
60
00:03:11,090 --> 00:03:15,090
This is where Malang lives.
Right here.
61
00:03:22,810 --> 00:03:26,210
I think most people,
when they hear the word Afghanistan,
62
00:03:26,210 --> 00:03:30,210
you think just war,
you think of Taliban,
63
00:03:30,330 --> 00:03:34,330
you think of all the violence that
has been happening for so many years.
64
00:03:34,850 --> 00:03:36,890
But when you look out across that,
65
00:03:36,890 --> 00:03:40,890
you can also see just how beautiful
and spectacular it is.
66
00:03:44,370 --> 00:03:46,650
The Himalayas have
attracted explorers
67
00:03:46,650 --> 00:03:48,970
and conquerors for centuries.
68
00:03:48,970 --> 00:03:52,650
I first came here when I was 19,
69
00:03:52,650 --> 00:03:56,170
and now I'm returning to really
discover what secrets
70
00:03:56,170 --> 00:04:00,170
these mountains hold, and what life
is like in their shadow.
71
00:04:02,890 --> 00:04:06,370
We're flying into the
Wakhan Corridor.
72
00:04:06,370 --> 00:04:09,730
Tajikistan lies to the north,
China to the east
73
00:04:09,730 --> 00:04:12,850
and Pakistan to the south.
74
00:04:12,850 --> 00:04:15,810
200 miles long and 25 miles wide,
75
00:04:15,810 --> 00:04:18,210
this strip of land is so inhospitable
76
00:04:18,210 --> 00:04:22,210
it's been untouched
by the wars that rage around it.
77
00:04:36,890 --> 00:04:40,210
Well, this is it. We've just
landed in the Wakhan Corridor.
78
00:04:40,210 --> 00:04:44,210
This is where it starts.
79
00:04:49,530 --> 00:04:52,570
For the first 60 miles,
the mountains will lead me
80
00:04:52,570 --> 00:04:56,570
through barren valleys,
where only nomadic tribes roam.
81
00:04:58,410 --> 00:05:01,970
I must then climb
a 5,000-metre wall of snow and ice,
82
00:05:01,970 --> 00:05:05,970
called the Irshad Pass,
to reach Pakistan.
83
00:05:07,410 --> 00:05:09,410
From there, I'll descend into
84
00:05:09,410 --> 00:05:13,130
an earthly paradise
known as the Hunza Valley,
85
00:05:13,130 --> 00:05:17,130
before the Himalayas draw me
into more dangerous territory.
86
00:05:21,770 --> 00:05:24,690
What do you think of
my Afghan hat, Malang?
87
00:05:24,690 --> 00:05:26,530
It's beautiful hat. Yeah?
88
00:05:26,530 --> 00:05:28,890
You look like Afghan in it.
89
00:05:28,890 --> 00:05:32,810
You look like an Australian.
Really? Yeah.
90
00:05:32,810 --> 00:05:36,810
The roof of the world. We are now
walking the roof of the world.
91
00:05:38,530 --> 00:05:41,090
'For much of the journey,
we'll film ourselves.
92
00:05:41,090 --> 00:05:45,090
'but for now,
we have a crew with us.
93
00:05:45,890 --> 00:05:48,650
'We must find some nomads
and pack animals to help
94
00:05:48,650 --> 00:05:52,650
'carry our equipment
if we're to get any further.'
95
00:05:54,290 --> 00:05:56,090
Malang stops for no man.
96
00:05:56,090 --> 00:05:58,210
HE LAUGHS
97
00:05:58,210 --> 00:06:00,570
Malang, where are you going?
98
00:06:00,570 --> 00:06:04,450
'Malang's a member of the local tribe
called the Wakhi.
99
00:06:04,450 --> 00:06:08,450
'He was the first Afghan to climb the
country's highest peak, Mount Noshaq.
100
00:06:10,250 --> 00:06:13,930
'He assures me he knows the way
through this brutal place.'
101
00:06:13,930 --> 00:06:17,410
It looks really deep,
and he insists that it's OK.
102
00:06:17,410 --> 00:06:19,410
I'm not sure.
103
00:06:19,410 --> 00:06:23,410
Ah, BLEEP.
104
00:06:24,090 --> 00:06:26,010
MALANG SHOUTS IN DISTANCE
105
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Eh?
106
00:06:33,250 --> 00:06:35,850
I'm cold and I'm wet,
107
00:06:35,850 --> 00:06:38,130
but we're making progress.
108
00:06:38,130 --> 00:06:41,610
Eh?
109
00:06:41,610 --> 00:06:43,490
Well done.
110
00:06:43,490 --> 00:06:46,290
Nearly finished.
111
00:06:46,290 --> 00:06:50,290
'At 4,000 metres, there's half
the oxygen there is at sea level.'
112
00:06:51,890 --> 00:06:55,890
HE COUGHS AND BREATHES HEAVILY
113
00:06:56,290 --> 00:06:58,090
I am knackered.
114
00:06:58,090 --> 00:07:02,090
The altitude just
makes every step so exhausting.
115
00:07:14,250 --> 00:07:18,250
'After two hours, we finally
come across another human.
116
00:07:19,570 --> 00:07:23,570
'And it's someone Malang recognises,
even at this distance.'
117
00:07:23,570 --> 00:07:27,570
So who is this, Malang?
118
00:07:30,130 --> 00:07:34,130
It looks like he's got three camels.
119
00:07:35,770 --> 00:07:39,450
We will go to him
and say to him, "Hello."
120
00:07:39,450 --> 00:07:43,450
Salaam. Salaam.
121
00:07:44,770 --> 00:07:47,410
Britannia. Britannia.
122
00:07:47,410 --> 00:07:49,890
'The chief's called Ear Ali Bhai.
123
00:07:49,890 --> 00:07:53,890
'He may know Malang,
but seems nervous about me.'
124
00:08:08,290 --> 00:08:11,570
What's happening now?
125
00:08:11,570 --> 00:08:14,290
Why do they have a gun here?
I thought it was safe.
126
00:08:14,290 --> 00:08:18,090
It is safe, but the gun they are
using for wolves and the animals.
127
00:08:18,090 --> 00:08:19,890
For wolves? Ah, the animals.
128
00:08:19,890 --> 00:08:23,890
But sometimes Tajikistan people
come and steal the yaks. Oh, really?
129
00:08:24,330 --> 00:08:28,330
They come across the border
and steal the animals?
130
00:08:28,450 --> 00:08:30,970
'This nomadic group of Kyrgyz
tribesmen are on their
131
00:08:30,970 --> 00:08:34,970
'summer migration to more fertile
land further up the valley.'
132
00:08:36,970 --> 00:08:40,970
Can we come with you to the
summer camp?
133
00:08:44,330 --> 00:08:48,330
We have our own tents, no problem.
134
00:08:48,650 --> 00:08:51,530
'The chief is the Kyrgyz's leader.'
135
00:08:51,530 --> 00:08:55,530
I think he's on side.
136
00:08:56,850 --> 00:09:00,850
'And in the Wakhan, the size of
your flock is a sign of your wealth.'
137
00:09:03,930 --> 00:09:05,650
It's really impressive. I mean, look.
138
00:09:05,650 --> 00:09:09,650
It's just thousands of animals
all on the move.
139
00:09:10,050 --> 00:09:12,170
'Meeting him is our best chance
140
00:09:12,170 --> 00:09:16,170
'to get the animals we need to move
our gear towards the pass.
141
00:09:25,970 --> 00:09:29,970
'Up here, there are no roads,
no vehicles and no local villages.
142
00:09:34,570 --> 00:09:38,570
'After six hours of walking,
we arrive at the Kyrgyz' new home.'
143
00:09:40,570 --> 00:09:44,570
So this is the summer camp.
144
00:09:47,050 --> 00:09:49,610
Salaam.
145
00:09:49,610 --> 00:09:52,090
I'm just trying to figure out where
to park the camels.
146
00:09:52,090 --> 00:09:54,330
I'm good with camels.
147
00:09:54,330 --> 00:09:56,850
Down.
148
00:09:56,850 --> 00:10:00,850
HE COMMANDS CAMEL IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
149
00:10:00,850 --> 00:10:03,810
I think it's the pronunciation.
150
00:10:03,810 --> 00:10:07,770
HE COMMANDS CAMEL IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
151
00:10:07,770 --> 00:10:11,770
'The Kyrgyz are descendants of the
Mongol armies led by Genghis Khan.
152
00:10:14,010 --> 00:10:18,010
'They once roamed from China to
Siberia, but are now cut off
153
00:10:18,170 --> 00:10:22,170
'from their ancestral grazing lands
by politics and border disputes.'
154
00:10:27,610 --> 00:10:31,450
It's a pretty colourful camp,
isn't it? Everything's red and white.
155
00:10:31,450 --> 00:10:33,890
You've got the girls
and the ladies over there,
156
00:10:33,890 --> 00:10:37,290
who are unpacking one of the camels.
157
00:10:37,290 --> 00:10:40,050
'The tribe will stay here
for the next three months,
158
00:10:40,050 --> 00:10:43,850
'until the snow returns.'
159
00:10:43,850 --> 00:10:47,050
Where does this go? On the top?
This goes on the top, yes.
160
00:10:47,050 --> 00:10:51,050
It's for roof.
161
00:10:53,410 --> 00:10:54,730
I mean, it is very basic.
162
00:10:54,730 --> 00:10:57,570
I mean, this is one of the most
remote valleys in the entire world,
163
00:10:57,570 --> 00:11:00,730
and these Kyrgyz are one of the most
164
00:11:00,730 --> 00:11:03,690
isolated communities of people
anywhere in the world.
165
00:11:03,690 --> 00:11:06,410
Imagine this place in the winter
when it's covered in snow
166
00:11:06,410 --> 00:11:08,050
and they just live in these yurts.
167
00:11:08,050 --> 00:11:10,690
The animals die of the cold,
there's nothing to eat.
168
00:11:10,690 --> 00:11:12,370
I mean, there's no trees.
169
00:11:12,370 --> 00:11:16,370
Some of these people have never seen
a tree in their entire lives.
170
00:11:16,730 --> 00:11:20,730
'The Kyrgyz have one of the lowest
life expectancies is in the world.
171
00:11:22,610 --> 00:11:26,610
'Only half their children make it
past their fifth birthday.'
172
00:11:28,210 --> 00:11:30,450
What age do people normally live to?
173
00:11:30,450 --> 00:11:33,170
Most of them is dead at 40. 40?
174
00:11:33,170 --> 00:11:36,930
And the women, most women dead
at 30, 32.
175
00:11:36,930 --> 00:11:38,330
32?
176
00:11:38,330 --> 00:11:41,930
And there is no hospitals,
there's no medical facilities.
177
00:11:41,930 --> 00:11:44,650
So if somebody gets ill, they die.
They die, yes.
178
00:11:44,650 --> 00:11:46,930
When they get sick, they die.
179
00:11:46,930 --> 00:11:49,650
A lot of men doesn't have wife...
180
00:11:49,650 --> 00:11:51,210
Because there is not enough women?
181
00:11:51,210 --> 00:11:52,690
Not enough women.
182
00:11:52,690 --> 00:11:56,690
One woman, if marry,
she's 100 sheep.
183
00:11:56,690 --> 00:12:00,050
So that's expensive.
184
00:12:00,050 --> 00:12:02,370
Chief, is this your boy?
185
00:12:02,370 --> 00:12:04,050
MALANG INTERPRETS
186
00:12:04,050 --> 00:12:06,810
Yah. Yah. This is. How old?
187
00:12:06,810 --> 00:12:09,810
MALANG INTERPRETS
188
00:12:09,810 --> 00:12:13,010
One year. One year old.
What's his name?
189
00:12:13,010 --> 00:12:15,730
MALANG INTERPRETS
190
00:12:15,730 --> 00:12:17,130
Mustafa Zahir.
191
00:12:17,130 --> 00:12:20,650
'The chief has been married
four times.
192
00:12:20,650 --> 00:12:24,330
'His first three wives
all died young.'
193
00:12:24,330 --> 00:12:26,610
This is your daughter?
194
00:12:26,610 --> 00:12:28,530
Hello. Salaam.
195
00:12:28,530 --> 00:12:32,050
'These are his children
from his fourth marriage.'
196
00:12:32,050 --> 00:12:34,050
So one day he will be the chief?
197
00:12:34,050 --> 00:12:38,050
MALANG INTERPRETS
198
00:12:39,570 --> 00:12:43,570
One day.
199
00:12:46,410 --> 00:12:49,930
It's such a harsh
and unforgiving place,
200
00:12:49,930 --> 00:12:51,690
especially in the winter.
201
00:12:51,690 --> 00:12:55,690
This place is below zero for about
seven or eight months of the year.
202
00:12:58,130 --> 00:13:02,130
It's hard.
203
00:13:04,770 --> 00:13:07,290
'Tomorrow we will leave
the Kyrgyz behind
204
00:13:07,290 --> 00:13:11,290
'and continue towards
the Irshad Pass.
205
00:13:11,890 --> 00:13:14,530
'The chief's yet to
lend us any pack animals,
206
00:13:14,530 --> 00:13:16,690
'but has invited us for a meal.'
207
00:13:16,690 --> 00:13:18,290
There's the speciality there.
208
00:13:18,290 --> 00:13:20,770
There's a head on a plate.
209
00:13:20,770 --> 00:13:23,890
Oh.
210
00:13:23,890 --> 00:13:26,050
That's gruesome.
211
00:13:26,050 --> 00:13:30,050
'The Kyrgyz only
eat meat on special occasions.
212
00:13:30,410 --> 00:13:34,410
'Tradition states that guests must
dine on the most prized parts.
213
00:13:35,290 --> 00:13:37,330
'I'd better not offend our host.'
214
00:13:37,330 --> 00:13:41,330
So which bit do I eat?
215
00:13:41,410 --> 00:13:45,410
Oh, this is the eye, is it?
Yes, it's the eyes.
216
00:13:51,370 --> 00:13:54,610
So here we've got the
ultimate delicacy.
217
00:13:54,610 --> 00:13:58,610
I'm not sure I can handle this.
218
00:14:09,730 --> 00:14:13,330
'Eyeballs are followed by brains.'
219
00:14:13,330 --> 00:14:14,850
Uh. It's just cream, isn't it?
220
00:14:14,850 --> 00:14:17,890
It's really creamy.
221
00:14:17,890 --> 00:14:19,770
Thankfully, the chief's pleased,
222
00:14:19,770 --> 00:14:23,770
and Malang's persuaded him to
lend us some donkeys.
223
00:14:24,090 --> 00:14:28,090
But it comes at a price.
224
00:14:34,370 --> 00:14:37,210
He says he doesn't like him -
"I'll kill him."
225
00:14:37,210 --> 00:14:44,770
Now he start to beat me.
226
00:14:49,610 --> 00:14:52,810
'I'm in a remote corner of
Afghanistan on a journey to
227
00:14:52,810 --> 00:14:56,810
'walk the length of the Himalayas.'
228
00:14:58,090 --> 00:14:59,730
Urgh.
229
00:14:59,730 --> 00:15:02,490
'We're aiming for the Irshad Pass -
230
00:15:02,490 --> 00:15:06,490
'a 5,000-metre-high trading
route into Pakistan.
231
00:15:06,970 --> 00:15:09,370
'It's still closed due to heavy snow,
232
00:15:09,370 --> 00:15:13,370
'and right now, just getting there is
going to take everything I've got.'
233
00:15:16,290 --> 00:15:20,290
I'm feeling rough today, actually.
The altitude's suddenly hit me.
234
00:15:20,610 --> 00:15:24,610
Just feel like somebody's
sitting on my chest all night long.
235
00:15:26,210 --> 00:15:30,210
Your whole lungs feel as though
they're just collapsing. Not good.
236
00:15:32,610 --> 00:15:35,250
'I have all the symptoms
of altitude sickness.
237
00:15:35,250 --> 00:15:37,450
'Not something you want to
be dealing with
238
00:15:37,450 --> 00:15:40,130
when you've got a four-day
walk to the nearest doctor.'
239
00:15:40,130 --> 00:15:44,130
We seem to have a lot of bags left,
and only two animals.
240
00:15:44,810 --> 00:15:46,650
'Chief Ear Ali Bhai has provided us
241
00:15:46,650 --> 00:15:49,530
'with five small donkeys to help
carry our equipment...'
242
00:15:49,530 --> 00:15:51,130
Come on.
243
00:15:51,130 --> 00:15:53,170
'..but they'll be useless on snow.'
244
00:15:53,170 --> 00:15:56,170
So will we change these over
when we get to the next village?
245
00:15:56,170 --> 00:15:59,010
Yeah, we have to change it. So we
can get some yaks at the next place?
246
00:15:59,010 --> 00:16:03,010
Yeah. Because when we go to the
Irshad Pass we'll need yaks. Yeah.
247
00:16:03,770 --> 00:16:07,770
'For now, though,
donkeys will have to do.'
248
00:16:11,690 --> 00:16:13,770
Let's go.
249
00:16:13,770 --> 00:16:17,770
Towards Pakistan.
250
00:16:21,210 --> 00:16:23,810
Navigation in the Wakhan is
pretty straightforward
251
00:16:23,810 --> 00:16:26,410
because it is just one really long,
straight valley.
252
00:16:26,410 --> 00:16:28,810
As long as you've got some
mountains on that side,
253
00:16:28,810 --> 00:16:32,810
and some mountains on that
side, we're good to go.
254
00:16:34,130 --> 00:16:36,530
Donkeys, this way.
255
00:16:36,530 --> 00:16:40,530
The hard part is making sure
the donkeys don't run away.
256
00:16:42,210 --> 00:16:45,010
Uish is what? Stop. Stop. Ich, go.
257
00:16:45,010 --> 00:16:47,370
Ich. Ich.
258
00:16:47,370 --> 00:16:51,370
Ich is go. Uish is stop.
259
00:16:51,490 --> 00:16:54,890
OK, I've got it.
260
00:16:54,890 --> 00:16:58,370
Right then. Naughty donkey.
Let's go.
261
00:16:58,370 --> 00:17:02,370
Uish! Well done.
262
00:17:04,010 --> 00:17:06,610
That's donkey talk sorted.
263
00:17:06,610 --> 00:17:09,450
It's a nice, simple language.
264
00:17:09,450 --> 00:17:13,450
Ich and Uish.
265
00:17:18,610 --> 00:17:22,610
'Not far out of camp is a reminder of
how hard life is up here.'
266
00:17:24,330 --> 00:17:28,250
Oh, wow.
267
00:17:28,250 --> 00:17:32,250
You can see this is a
very basic graveyard.
268
00:17:33,250 --> 00:17:36,610
This is obviously one for a baby,
and there's a lot of these.
269
00:17:36,610 --> 00:17:39,250
There's another one there.
270
00:17:39,250 --> 00:17:41,090
Another one here.
271
00:17:41,090 --> 00:17:44,930
That another baby's one.
272
00:17:44,930 --> 00:17:48,930
There's another baby's one here.
273
00:17:50,050 --> 00:17:54,050
Life is short out here.
274
00:18:06,770 --> 00:18:10,770
HE BREATHES HEAVILY
275
00:18:15,810 --> 00:18:19,810
Uish!
276
00:18:24,890 --> 00:18:28,890
HE BREATHES HEAVILY
277
00:18:32,530 --> 00:18:36,530
'In five gruelling hours, we've
only managed to cover ten miles.'
278
00:18:42,570 --> 00:18:46,570
Glorious sunshine one minute,
sleet and snow the next.
279
00:18:47,170 --> 00:18:51,170
Now I've finished my water,
I have to drink from sky.
280
00:18:54,810 --> 00:18:58,810
I can imagine in the winter this
place is gruesome.
281
00:19:03,810 --> 00:19:06,170
Yeah, the weather turned
really quickly.
282
00:19:06,170 --> 00:19:09,050
One minute it can be really hot
283
00:19:09,050 --> 00:19:12,290
and you're sweating just by moving,
284
00:19:12,290 --> 00:19:16,290
and as soon as the clouds
come in, that's it, it just goes
285
00:19:17,010 --> 00:19:21,010
to almost freezing in a
matter of seconds.
286
00:19:21,610 --> 00:19:25,330
Malang tells me the next tribe
aren't too far away,
287
00:19:25,330 --> 00:19:29,330
but I can't see any signs of life.
288
00:19:38,970 --> 00:19:42,290
Chief Ear Ali Bhai's men
also have doubts,
289
00:19:42,290 --> 00:19:45,730
and think we're heading
into the middle of nowhere.
290
00:19:45,730 --> 00:19:49,210
I told them, "What are we doing
here? There is nothing."
291
00:19:49,210 --> 00:19:52,170
The Kyrgyz are complaining that
it's too late for them now
292
00:19:52,170 --> 00:19:54,370
and they want to go home.
293
00:19:54,370 --> 00:19:58,330
If they leave us, we've got no way of
carrying our bags to the next place,
294
00:19:58,330 --> 00:20:01,370
so we need to get to a village where
we can exchange the animals.
295
00:20:01,370 --> 00:20:04,370
THEY CONVERSE IN OWN LANGUAGE
296
00:20:04,370 --> 00:20:08,370
'Malang persuades them to keep
going for one more hour.
297
00:20:09,250 --> 00:20:13,250
'If we don't find help after that,
we'll be stranded.'
298
00:20:23,170 --> 00:20:27,170
We've been walking for six and
a half hours.
299
00:20:28,290 --> 00:20:31,970
We're looking for another village,
we've not seen a single one.
300
00:20:31,970 --> 00:20:35,050
Malang, where's the village?
301
00:20:35,050 --> 00:20:39,050
I think Malang is
underestimating the distances.
302
00:20:44,890 --> 00:20:48,890
Then, at the bottom of the valley,
we spot them.
303
00:20:49,570 --> 00:20:53,570
THEY SHOUT AND CHANT
304
00:21:01,570 --> 00:21:05,570
'These guys are members of Malang's
tribe - the Wakhi.
305
00:21:07,130 --> 00:21:09,850
'They've spent five months living
alone up here,
306
00:21:09,850 --> 00:21:13,850
'and seem to be as pleased to see us
as we are to see them.'
307
00:21:16,690 --> 00:21:20,690
What do you want me to do with that?
308
00:21:21,170 --> 00:21:23,130
Why are they dancing, Malang?
309
00:21:23,130 --> 00:21:27,130
And why has he given me this sheep?
310
00:21:28,210 --> 00:21:30,970
'The Wakhi tribe are semi-nomadic.
311
00:21:30,970 --> 00:21:34,730
'In the summer, they cross
into Pakistan to trade livestock
312
00:21:34,730 --> 00:21:38,730
'for essentials like rice,
salt and flour.'
313
00:21:44,050 --> 00:21:46,170
The Wakhi people are very friendly.
314
00:21:46,170 --> 00:21:47,570
They love guests.
315
00:21:47,570 --> 00:21:50,170
When there's guests coming, these
people are happy.
316
00:21:50,170 --> 00:21:51,730
All Wakhi are the same.
317
00:21:51,730 --> 00:21:54,930
Very nice people.
318
00:21:54,930 --> 00:21:58,610
'These are just the guys
we needed to meet.
319
00:21:58,610 --> 00:22:01,250
'They're the gatekeepers
of the Irshad Pass,
320
00:22:01,250 --> 00:22:04,690
'and have the yaks to get us there.'
321
00:22:04,690 --> 00:22:06,410
Right, it's four o'clock.
322
00:22:06,410 --> 00:22:10,410
We need to put our tents
up before it gets too cold.
323
00:22:10,530 --> 00:22:13,610
'Malang's already working his magic.
324
00:22:13,610 --> 00:22:17,530
'He's tracked down the leader of the
tribe, Chief Mirza.'
325
00:22:17,530 --> 00:22:19,370
Is this the chief?
326
00:22:19,370 --> 00:22:22,450
Salaam.
327
00:22:22,450 --> 00:22:26,450
Salaam.
328
00:22:28,330 --> 00:22:47,770
We are going to the Irshad Pass.
329
00:22:54,010 --> 00:22:58,010
'I'm on the first leg of my journey
to walk across the Himalayas.'
330
00:23:03,530 --> 00:23:06,450
That's our next form of transport
right there.
331
00:23:06,450 --> 00:23:10,450
So we've upgraded from donkeys and
now we're on the yaks.
332
00:23:11,290 --> 00:23:13,570
They're hard as nails.
333
00:23:13,570 --> 00:23:17,570
'Despite telling us the
Irshad Pass is still closed by snow,
334
00:23:17,610 --> 00:23:21,610
'Chief Mirza has given us the yaks
we need to carry our equipment.
335
00:23:23,570 --> 00:23:27,570
'But he's decided to come along to
keep an eye on us and his animals.'
336
00:23:32,690 --> 00:23:36,610
It's a steep start.
337
00:23:36,610 --> 00:23:39,530
HE COUGHS
338
00:23:39,530 --> 00:23:43,370
When the wind comes in and you've got
a massive mountain to climb,
339
00:23:43,370 --> 00:23:47,370
it does make you wonder
what on earth you're doing.
340
00:23:49,250 --> 00:23:53,250
'The Wakhi have used the Irshad
Pass for hundreds of years.
341
00:23:54,050 --> 00:23:57,530
'But as far as they know,
no-one has ever tried to climb it
342
00:23:57,530 --> 00:24:01,530
'so early in the season.'
343
00:24:06,530 --> 00:24:09,490
The yaks just glide over this.
344
00:24:09,490 --> 00:24:13,490
They must have lungs like bin bags.
345
00:24:13,650 --> 00:24:17,650
I just want to jump on and ride one.
346
00:24:20,090 --> 00:24:24,090
My heart rate is over 100,
which is not good.
347
00:24:25,650 --> 00:24:29,650
I'm just struggling to get oxygen.
348
00:24:31,050 --> 00:24:35,050
'The mountains are relentless.
349
00:24:35,450 --> 00:24:37,210
'I'm not sure what's worse,
350
00:24:37,210 --> 00:24:41,210
'going up...or coming down.'
351
00:24:49,610 --> 00:24:53,610
Whew, that was steep.
352
00:25:01,410 --> 00:25:05,410
'At night, temperatures drop
well below freezing.
353
00:25:07,450 --> 00:25:10,650
'Mornings are spent warming
up around the fire,
354
00:25:10,650 --> 00:25:14,650
'where the only way to defrost our
bread is to burn yak dung.'
355
00:25:17,290 --> 00:25:21,290
Yeah, it's making me warm.
356
00:25:25,410 --> 00:25:27,490
Mmm.
357
00:25:27,490 --> 00:25:31,490
The taste is cow shit
Yeah, from the smoke.
358
00:25:44,690 --> 00:25:47,770
'Finally, two days after leaving
the Wakhi camp,
359
00:25:47,770 --> 00:25:51,770
'and 47 miles into the walk,
our route reveals itself.'
360
00:25:52,930 --> 00:25:56,930
The foot of the Irshad Pass should be
just around the corner.
361
00:25:58,330 --> 00:26:02,330
There it is. Right there. Whoa.
362
00:26:02,890 --> 00:26:05,410
Oh, it's beautiful.
363
00:26:05,410 --> 00:26:09,410
And beyond that, Pakistan.
364
00:26:11,850 --> 00:26:15,850
And how long does it take
the chief to go up there?
365
00:26:28,530 --> 00:26:30,290
My heart is going quickly.
366
00:26:30,290 --> 00:26:33,290
I would like to move quickly to the
top to see the other side,
367
00:26:33,290 --> 00:26:36,050
what happens on the other side.
368
00:26:36,050 --> 00:26:39,130
Lev's strong. Lev is strong.
369
00:26:39,130 --> 00:26:40,890
Enough strong.
370
00:26:40,890 --> 00:26:44,010
Tomorrow we see what happens.
371
00:26:44,010 --> 00:26:46,930
'In the morning,
we'll say goodbye to Chief Mirza
372
00:26:46,930 --> 00:26:50,930
'and take on the Irshad Pass.'
373
00:26:53,570 --> 00:26:56,370
Thank you for all your help
for the past few days.
374
00:26:56,370 --> 00:26:59,010
It's been very good and we couldn't
have done it without you.
375
00:26:59,010 --> 00:27:01,850
It's a very remote and very
isolated place,
376
00:27:01,850 --> 00:27:04,250
but the people that live here
make it worthwhile.
377
00:27:04,250 --> 00:27:08,250
THEY SPEAK IN WAKHI
378
00:27:17,050 --> 00:27:18,730
Thank you very much.
379
00:27:18,730 --> 00:27:22,730
Cheers. Cheers. Cheers.
380
00:27:25,690 --> 00:27:28,970
I've never been drinking
with Afghans before.
381
00:27:28,970 --> 00:27:32,890
Turns out they can polish off two
bottles of whisky.
382
00:27:32,890 --> 00:27:36,890
MEN SING:
383
00:27:46,690 --> 00:27:50,690
THEY ALL LAUGH
384
00:28:00,810 --> 00:28:02,490
It's just coming light.
385
00:28:02,490 --> 00:28:04,810
'It's 3:30 AM.
386
00:28:04,810 --> 00:28:08,810
'We need to reach the snow
line before the sun hits.
387
00:28:09,690 --> 00:28:13,170
'Four years ago, three Wakhi
tribesmen were killed
388
00:28:13,170 --> 00:28:16,730
'when an avalanche swept them away
as they scaled the Irshad Pass.'
389
00:28:16,730 --> 00:28:18,570
Will we get to the top?
390
00:28:18,570 --> 00:28:21,690
We shall know in three
and a half hours.
391
00:28:21,690 --> 00:28:25,170
'The chief's two strongest shepherds,
Muhammad and Mirza,
392
00:28:25,170 --> 00:28:29,170
'have agreed guide us up to
the mountain until we reach
the snowline.'
393
00:28:29,610 --> 00:28:31,450
Right, ready? Yeah.
394
00:28:31,450 --> 00:28:33,090
Let's go.
395
00:28:33,090 --> 00:28:37,090
'After that, it's just
me and Malang.'
396
00:28:37,970 --> 00:28:40,530
Higher, higher, higher, high.
397
00:28:40,530 --> 00:28:44,530
Higher, higher, higher.
398
00:28:49,250 --> 00:28:52,210
We're at 4,250 now.
399
00:28:52,210 --> 00:28:53,770
Meters.
400
00:28:53,770 --> 00:28:57,490
And we're going up to just
under 5,000 metres.
401
00:28:57,490 --> 00:29:01,490
So, an intense climb.
402
00:29:04,810 --> 00:29:08,570
It's really important we get to the
top before the sun comes up
403
00:29:08,570 --> 00:29:10,210
and loosens the snow and melts it,
404
00:29:10,210 --> 00:29:11,970
because then it becomes dangerous.
405
00:29:11,970 --> 00:29:15,970
So we've really got to get to the
top of the pass...
406
00:29:16,570 --> 00:29:20,570
in good time this morning.
407
00:29:28,210 --> 00:29:32,210
Whoa.
408
00:29:35,050 --> 00:29:39,050
'The higher we go, the thinner
the air becomes.'
409
00:29:41,530 --> 00:29:44,450
Just takes it out of you, just the
energy, you know?
410
00:29:44,450 --> 00:29:48,450
Just out of breath.
411
00:29:49,370 --> 00:29:52,330
I'm trying to walk ten paces
and then stop,
412
00:29:52,330 --> 00:29:56,090
have a breather, another ten paces.
It's all you can do
413
00:29:56,090 --> 00:30:00,090
at this sort of altitude.
414
00:30:01,410 --> 00:30:04,730
'It's 7AM.
415
00:30:04,730 --> 00:30:08,730
'We should have hit the snowline
two hours ago.'
416
00:30:09,050 --> 00:30:13,050
Just when you think it's
going to get easy.
417
00:30:13,170 --> 00:30:17,170
Wow, we're going to have to go across
this really steep scree slope,
418
00:30:17,650 --> 00:30:20,570
where there's quite a lot of
dangerous rock fall.
419
00:30:20,570 --> 00:30:23,090
You can see all these boulders.
420
00:30:23,090 --> 00:30:25,890
Avalanches have happened,
landslides have happened.
421
00:30:25,890 --> 00:30:27,570
So there's absolutely no trail,
422
00:30:27,570 --> 00:30:29,570
so we're having to make one.
423
00:30:29,570 --> 00:30:33,170
Malang's upfront cutting some
steps into the slope.
424
00:30:33,170 --> 00:30:37,170
But even the yaks are going to
struggle with this, I think.
425
00:30:43,210 --> 00:30:47,210
MALANG WHISTLES AND SHOUTS
426
00:30:54,490 --> 00:30:55,690
Malang?
427
00:30:55,690 --> 00:30:59,690
Tell them that we'll go first,
and they follow on.
428
00:31:06,370 --> 00:31:10,370
After four hours walking, we've still
got the hardest part to go.
429
00:31:17,010 --> 00:31:21,010
There's another 500 metres
to climb on snow and ice.
430
00:31:24,170 --> 00:31:26,650
The higher you get,
the harder it gets.
431
00:31:26,650 --> 00:31:28,930
Every step is...
432
00:31:28,930 --> 00:31:32,690
..difficult. But, er...
433
00:31:32,690 --> 00:31:36,690
We've finally made it
to the snow line.
434
00:31:36,690 --> 00:31:39,210
Muhammad and Mirzar will wait here
with the yaks,
435
00:31:39,210 --> 00:31:43,210
while Malang and I see
if it's safe to climb to the top.
436
00:31:44,530 --> 00:31:47,170
Let's go.
437
00:31:47,170 --> 00:31:51,170
HE PANTS
438
00:31:58,650 --> 00:32:01,570
Malang, what does that mean?
439
00:32:01,570 --> 00:32:04,130
Yeah, we'll need to stay
away from that avalanche.
440
00:32:04,130 --> 00:32:05,770
It's fresh.
441
00:32:05,770 --> 00:32:08,610
That's this morning, isn't it?
Maybe last night.
442
00:32:08,610 --> 00:32:11,450
Maybe last night or this morning.
443
00:32:11,450 --> 00:32:15,450
OK. No yodelling!
444
00:32:15,650 --> 00:32:19,650
We need to get up there.
We can see better, I think. Yeah.
445
00:32:25,290 --> 00:32:28,450
THEY COUGH AND SPLUTTER
446
00:32:28,450 --> 00:32:32,450
If that sun heats up that overhanging
cliff that's right above us...
447
00:32:33,810 --> 00:32:37,810
We're all gonners.
448
00:32:48,690 --> 00:32:51,330
How are you? Good? Yeah.
449
00:32:51,330 --> 00:32:55,330
HE BREATHES HEAVILY
450
00:33:12,890 --> 00:33:14,170
HE SIGHS
451
00:33:14,170 --> 00:33:16,810
This is brutal.
452
00:33:16,810 --> 00:33:19,250
This is hard-core.
453
00:33:19,250 --> 00:33:21,290
And you've got to be so careful.
454
00:33:21,290 --> 00:33:25,290
There's so many hidden dangers.
455
00:33:29,210 --> 00:33:31,090
I thought I was coming up to the top.
456
00:33:31,090 --> 00:33:32,530
And then...
457
00:33:32,530 --> 00:33:34,410
HE PANTS
458
00:33:34,410 --> 00:33:36,530
I should know better.
459
00:33:36,530 --> 00:33:37,930
It's a false peak.
460
00:33:37,930 --> 00:33:41,930
And there's still another
few hundred metres to go.
461
00:33:44,810 --> 00:33:48,650
MALANG SHOUTS LOUDLY
462
00:33:48,650 --> 00:33:52,650
You're going to cause an avalanche,
you are.
463
00:34:02,810 --> 00:34:03,890
One down!
464
00:34:03,890 --> 00:34:06,330
THEY CHEER
465
00:34:06,330 --> 00:34:08,810
'Six hours after leaving
base camp...'
466
00:34:08,810 --> 00:34:12,810
Wow, look at that!
467
00:34:14,650 --> 00:34:18,050
'..we arrived at the top
of the Irshad Pass.
468
00:34:18,050 --> 00:34:20,810
'Ahead of us is country number two.'
469
00:34:20,810 --> 00:34:25,770
THEY SHOUT
470
00:34:29,970 --> 00:34:32,210
Nothing is simple on these walks.
471
00:34:32,210 --> 00:34:35,210
Having conquered the Irshad Pass,
Malang and I were
472
00:34:35,210 --> 00:34:39,210
blocked at the Pakistan border
and had to go the long way round.
473
00:34:42,330 --> 00:34:44,610
But we've been able to pick
up our trail a few
474
00:34:44,610 --> 00:34:48,490
miles from where we left off.
475
00:34:48,490 --> 00:34:51,610
There it is, right behind us.
476
00:34:51,610 --> 00:34:55,610
We can see the snow-capped
peaks of Afghanistan.
477
00:34:59,090 --> 00:35:03,090
We're now in a part
of Pakistan the world rarely sees.
478
00:35:05,290 --> 00:35:08,850
Over the next 100 miles,
the Himalayas will lead us
479
00:35:08,850 --> 00:35:11,130
through the lush Hunza Valley.
480
00:35:11,130 --> 00:35:13,730
We'll trek the only
roads across these mountains,
481
00:35:13,730 --> 00:35:17,210
then mighty Karakoram Highway,
482
00:35:17,210 --> 00:35:21,050
and then head to the outskirts
of Gilgit, where Islamic extremists
483
00:35:21,050 --> 00:35:25,050
are known to have a strong presence.
484
00:35:26,690 --> 00:35:30,690
You know, I'm going into this new
country with a sense of trepidation.
485
00:35:31,130 --> 00:35:33,770
I've heard stories
about this area, that it was
486
00:35:33,770 --> 00:35:37,770
one of the routes that the Taliban
came to try to recruit new people
487
00:35:41,010 --> 00:35:45,010
from Pakistan, to take them back over
the high passes into Afghanistan.
488
00:35:45,450 --> 00:35:49,450
There's also a rumour that
Osama Bin Laden himself came over
489
00:35:50,010 --> 00:35:53,490
one of these passes
when he was escaping Afghanistan,
490
00:35:53,490 --> 00:35:57,490
but it's such a spectacular place.
491
00:35:58,050 --> 00:36:01,450
The contrast between the barren
landscapes of Afghanistan
492
00:36:01,450 --> 00:36:05,450
and these fertile valleys is
striking.
493
00:36:07,770 --> 00:36:11,370
And this whole area is just
absolutely stunning.
494
00:36:11,370 --> 00:36:15,370
There's lush green fields, you can
smell the herbs growing,
495
00:36:15,770 --> 00:36:19,770
the wild onions and the garlic,
the jasmine and the roses.
496
00:36:22,010 --> 00:36:26,010
It's just like... This beautiful,
green, lush paradise, really.
497
00:36:29,650 --> 00:36:33,650
These are the first ladies
we've seen.
498
00:36:35,330 --> 00:36:38,890
Are they good potatoes here?
499
00:36:38,890 --> 00:36:42,890
The best.
500
00:36:43,010 --> 00:36:47,010
HE SPEAKS THE LANGUAGE
501
00:36:48,570 --> 00:36:50,570
The Hunza has been
described by writers
502
00:36:50,570 --> 00:36:54,570
and explorers as the most
beautiful valley on earth.
503
00:36:54,890 --> 00:36:58,010
If the Wakhan Corridor was
the roof of the world,
504
00:36:58,010 --> 00:37:01,250
then this must be its window
into heaven.
505
00:37:01,250 --> 00:37:04,330
Assalaamu Alaikum.
506
00:37:04,330 --> 00:37:07,410
The people here are is
Ismaili Muslims,
507
00:37:07,410 --> 00:37:10,890
a liberal sect of Islam, whose
spiritual leader is
508
00:37:10,890 --> 00:37:14,890
the British millionaire,
The Aga Khan.
509
00:37:16,530 --> 00:37:20,530
In these rich valleys,
life expectancy is remarkably high,
510
00:37:21,010 --> 00:37:25,010
creating a geriatric oasis.
511
00:37:26,090 --> 00:37:30,090
What is the secret to the happiness
of the people that live here?
512
00:37:38,130 --> 00:37:41,850
How old are you? 84. 84? Ah!
513
00:37:41,850 --> 00:37:44,090
And you're still climbing mountains?
Ah!
514
00:37:44,090 --> 00:37:48,090
That's impressive.
515
00:37:50,890 --> 00:37:52,890
Hunza water, yeah.
516
00:37:52,890 --> 00:37:55,730
The water this gentleman is alluding
to isn't your normal H2O.
517
00:37:55,730 --> 00:37:59,130
That's the secret,
I understand, OK, right.
518
00:37:59,130 --> 00:38:03,130
It's a potent Moonshine they tell me
is the key to a long life.
519
00:38:07,650 --> 00:38:10,930
Nice old man.
520
00:38:10,930 --> 00:38:14,930
Fancy a cup of tea?
521
00:38:20,930 --> 00:38:22,490
Stopped off for a cup of tea
522
00:38:22,490 --> 00:38:26,490
and we're treated to a bit
of a boogie from the proprietor.
523
00:38:27,370 --> 00:38:30,890
Despite the rumours, this couldn't
feel further from the jihadi
524
00:38:30,890 --> 00:38:34,890
badlands we were warned about.
525
00:38:43,890 --> 00:38:47,890
The biggest dangers seem to
be the bridges.
526
00:38:50,330 --> 00:38:53,890
Oh, my God!
527
00:38:53,890 --> 00:38:56,810
It is going like this.
528
00:38:56,810 --> 00:39:00,810
Yes, it's a bit wonky,
to say the least.
529
00:39:04,090 --> 00:39:07,570
This one is broken, this one.
530
00:39:07,570 --> 00:39:11,570
Don't fall, Malang. Huh? Don't fall.
531
00:39:13,890 --> 00:39:17,890
So scary.
This is unbelievably terrifying.
532
00:39:19,050 --> 00:39:23,050
These pieces of wood are just
so thin and...
533
00:39:26,210 --> 00:39:29,530
What nutcase came up with this idea?
534
00:39:29,530 --> 00:39:33,530
Keep going.
535
00:39:35,010 --> 00:39:36,890
Woo! We made it.
536
00:39:36,890 --> 00:39:40,890
That bridge is hell.
537
00:39:41,090 --> 00:39:45,090
I think I'd rather swim across, than
try that again.
538
00:39:47,410 --> 00:39:51,410
After that, I'm in need of a drink.
539
00:39:54,690 --> 00:39:56,050
With our tents pitched,
540
00:39:56,050 --> 00:40:00,050
Malang and I venture
into the village of Hyderabad.
541
00:40:02,370 --> 00:40:03,850
I mean, this is incredible.
542
00:40:03,850 --> 00:40:07,850
It looks like the whole village has
come out to sit around the bonfire.
543
00:40:12,290 --> 00:40:13,610
The crew driver, Bashir,
544
00:40:13,610 --> 00:40:17,610
tells us that a mysterious
Shaman is due to appear.
545
00:40:18,250 --> 00:40:20,770
This is not very common.
546
00:40:20,770 --> 00:40:24,770
Shaman normally is very few times
on special occasions.
547
00:40:28,650 --> 00:40:32,530
So this gentleman is the Shaman?
Here's the Shaman.
548
00:40:32,530 --> 00:40:35,890
He's the real deal.
549
00:40:35,890 --> 00:40:39,690
Mr Masroof is
a bit of a hero in these parts.
550
00:40:39,690 --> 00:40:43,090
He's gained a reputation for telling
the future by entering
551
00:40:43,090 --> 00:40:47,090
a hypnotic state
and talking to the fairies.
552
00:40:47,730 --> 00:40:51,730
He's been inhaling juniper.
He's just lost it. Whoa!
553
00:40:56,050 --> 00:41:00,050
I've got no idea what's going on,
but he's really getting into it. Wow.
554
00:41:02,250 --> 00:41:06,250
He is fully in a trance.
555
00:41:06,450 --> 00:41:10,450
The rhythm of the music pushes him
to jump and run around the ground.
556
00:41:13,330 --> 00:41:17,330
It has to be... Perfect. Boom, boom,
boom. It has to enter him. OK.
557
00:41:28,170 --> 00:41:32,050
What is that?
558
00:41:32,050 --> 00:41:36,050
Somewhere, a goat's head has just
been given to the Shaman
559
00:41:36,210 --> 00:41:40,210
and he's now drinking the blood
straight from the goat's head.
560
00:41:45,650 --> 00:41:47,930
Once Mr Masroof is
under his trance,
561
00:41:47,930 --> 00:41:50,530
the conversation with
the fairies begins.
562
00:41:50,530 --> 00:41:54,530
HE CHANTS
563
00:42:03,770 --> 00:42:06,010
DRUM SOUNDS
564
00:42:06,010 --> 00:42:09,890
Whoa!
565
00:42:09,890 --> 00:42:13,130
I think he's done. I don't think he's
got anything more to give.
566
00:42:13,130 --> 00:42:16,730
I've never seen anything like that.
567
00:42:16,730 --> 00:42:20,010
Is he OK?
568
00:42:20,010 --> 00:42:24,010
How are you feeling?
Are you OK?
569
00:42:26,210 --> 00:42:29,730
He said, I had connections.
570
00:42:29,730 --> 00:42:33,730
Finally, I was connected
with fairies.
571
00:42:33,850 --> 00:42:37,850
Do you have any
predictions for my journey?
572
00:42:39,410 --> 00:42:43,170
(TRANSLATES): The news I got from
fairies is every step
573
00:42:43,170 --> 00:42:46,890
you are going to take,
it will be successful
574
00:42:46,890 --> 00:42:50,770
and you have good news from the
ferry direction
575
00:42:50,770 --> 00:42:54,650
and you may continue your journey.
576
00:42:54,650 --> 00:42:58,650
Thank you very much.
577
00:43:00,170 --> 00:43:04,170
The Shaman then offers us a drink.
This is Hunza water.
578
00:43:04,410 --> 00:43:08,210
Hunza water, yeah.
579
00:43:08,210 --> 00:43:12,210
'The secret to happiness and a long
life.' Cheers. Cheers.
580
00:43:12,330 --> 00:43:16,250
'The infamous Hunza Moonshine.'
581
00:43:16,250 --> 00:43:18,690
Now I would like to dance.
582
00:43:18,690 --> 00:43:22,690
MUSIC PLAYS
583
00:43:36,370 --> 00:43:39,570
Next morning, having tested more
Hunza water than
584
00:43:39,570 --> 00:43:43,570
we should have, we press on.
585
00:43:45,730 --> 00:43:49,650
We're moving deeper into Pakistan,
leaving the Hunza Valley behind
586
00:43:49,650 --> 00:43:53,650
and pushing on to a place where both
man and nature are more of a threat.
587
00:44:01,610 --> 00:44:03,970
This next stretch of the
Karakoram Highway
588
00:44:03,970 --> 00:44:07,970
shadows the ancient silk route.
589
00:44:10,850 --> 00:44:13,610
The tarmac road is
part of a ?4 billion
590
00:44:13,610 --> 00:44:16,770
investment from the Chinese
government to improve trade
591
00:44:16,770 --> 00:44:20,770
links with the Pakistani
ports on the Arabian Sea.
592
00:44:23,650 --> 00:44:27,650
It's a deal that not everybody
here is pleased about.
593
00:44:28,570 --> 00:44:32,170
There are groups like the Taliban
that don't want development
594
00:44:32,170 --> 00:44:36,050
in these areas, so, the Taliban have
issued threats against the Chinese.
595
00:44:36,050 --> 00:44:39,370
It's very controversial.
596
00:44:39,370 --> 00:44:43,370
And lots of people have
got their own stakes on this area.
597
00:44:46,650 --> 00:44:50,650
'The Pakistani Taliban are known to
have influence around here.
598
00:44:51,050 --> 00:44:54,090
'We're entering the outskirts of
Gilgit.'
599
00:44:54,090 --> 00:44:56,250
MAN CHANTS IN THE DISTANCE
600
00:44:56,250 --> 00:45:00,250
Look, the mullah starting to
pray.
601
00:45:04,090 --> 00:45:08,090
We've left the Hunza Valley, now,
and there's a very different
602
00:45:08,410 --> 00:45:12,130
feel to the place and there's these
Shia religious flags,
603
00:45:12,130 --> 00:45:16,130
sort of dangling from the
trees and across the roads.
604
00:45:20,810 --> 00:45:24,810
Look, we are walking for hours. We
can see any women in the street.
605
00:45:26,090 --> 00:45:30,090
You see it? No women. No.
606
00:45:32,170 --> 00:45:34,570
So, just walking through this village
607
00:45:34,570 --> 00:45:38,210
and there's lots of blokes who have
been saying hello, Assalaamu Alaikum,
608
00:45:38,210 --> 00:45:41,170
but nobody is
really returning the greeting.
609
00:45:41,170 --> 00:45:45,170
Not particularly pleasant.
610
00:45:48,770 --> 00:45:52,770
It's all over the road, as well.
611
00:45:57,210 --> 00:46:01,210
Erm, going to try and get
through as quickly as I can.
612
00:46:01,690 --> 00:46:05,690
The last thing
we need is any trouble.
613
00:46:05,850 --> 00:46:09,850
We should probably stop filming.
614
00:46:10,610 --> 00:46:14,370
Still to come... We've been stuck out
here. It's game over.
615
00:46:14,370 --> 00:46:16,170
I've never seen rain like it.
616
00:46:16,170 --> 00:46:17,850
Extraordinary wildlife...
617
00:46:17,850 --> 00:46:19,610
Get out of the water, now.
618
00:46:19,610 --> 00:46:20,970
..extreme devotion...
619
00:46:20,970 --> 00:46:24,970
It makes my walk look quite easy,
to be honest. Wow, look at that.
620
00:46:25,050 --> 00:46:26,890
..a secret kingdom...
621
00:46:26,890 --> 00:46:28,050
It is amazing.
622
00:46:28,050 --> 00:46:32,050
..Mount Everest
and a terrifying accident.
623
00:46:36,850 --> 00:47:09,770
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