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Only one creature has carved a life
for itself in every habitat on Earth.
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00:00:09,657 --> 00:00:12,455
That creature is us.
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00:00:15,337 --> 00:00:19,012
All over the world
we still use our ingenuity
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00:00:19,057 --> 00:00:21,525
to survive in the wild places,
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00:00:21,577 --> 00:00:26,571
far from the city lights,
face to face with raw nature.
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00:00:27,737 --> 00:00:30,934
This is the Human Planet.
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Deserts are the hottest
and driest places on Earth.
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They cover one third
of the land's surface.
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Some never see rain.
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00:01:02,297 --> 00:01:05,050
We can survive two months without food...
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...yet only a few days without water.
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00:01:11,697 --> 00:01:16,452
As babies, we spend nine months
surrounded by fluid in our mother's womb.
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00:01:18,017 --> 00:01:22,932
But birth pushes us
out of this luxurious water world.
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(GRUNTS AND CRIES)
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00:01:24,777 --> 00:01:26,768
(BABY CRYING)
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From this point on,
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life for every child of the desert
is defined by the quest for water.
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Yet, somehow, in this brutal land,
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an incredible 300 million people survive.
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These are their remarkable stories.
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The Sahara is the biggest desert
on the globe.
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It is the size of the United States,
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and its arid interior can unleash
the mightiest sandstorms on the planet.
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Ferocious winds whip up
billions of tiny sand grains,
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into massive walls...
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...reaching more than 5,000 metres
into the air,
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ten times the height
of the Empire State Building,
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covering areas the size of Britain.
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Battling through this sandstorm in Mali
is 1 6-year-old Mamadou.
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He's a cattle herder who left home
three days ago
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on a mission to find water for his cows.
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It's a huge responsibility
on his teenage shoulders.
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He must endure
the fury of the desert alone,
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but there's an even bigger challenge
ahead.
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He's in a race against
the biggest land animal on Earth -
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African elephants.
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This desert herd is also
desperate for water
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because Mali is gripped by drought.
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It's 40 degrees Celsius.
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Most of the water holes are already dry.
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Only one place for 80 kilometres
will still have water...
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...Lake Banzena.
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And this is where both the elephants
and Mamadou are heading.
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(BIRDSONG)
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If Mamadou keeps up a fast pace,
he'll reach the lake by morning.
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But only 50 kilometres behind him
are the greatest nomads of the desert.
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(ELEPHANTS SNORT)
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Elephant matriarchs guide the herd,
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following an incredible mental map
of all the water holes
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to be found in an area of
tens of thousands of square kilometres.
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00:05:10,337 --> 00:05:13,374
Acacia trees give them
just enough fuel to keep walking
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but they can't rest, day or night.
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But, for Mamadou, nightfall means
he has no choice but to stop.
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Meeting elephants in the dark
could be fatal.
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(INSECTS CHIRPING)
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(COW MOOS)
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A hurried breakfast is
the little precious milk
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Mamadou can get from his cows.
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It keeps him one step away
from dehydration.
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But he's got to get going.
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The elephant herd have walked
through the night, making up ground.
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- (BIRDSONG)
- (ELEPHANT TRUMPETS)
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(COWS MOOING)
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(CALLS OUT)
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Finally the end is in sight for Mamadou.
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(COWS MOOING)
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But he walks straight into trouble.
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Not only have the massive elephant herd
beaten him to the lake,
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but they're also blocking
his access to the water.
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(RUMBLING GROWLS)
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00:06:31,257 --> 00:06:32,656
(GROWLING)
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Mamadou knows the elephants could charge,
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so he is careful not to get too close.
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(RUMBLING GROWLS)
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It's an uneasy truce
while he works out how to break through.
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00:06:48,497 --> 00:06:50,488
(GROWLING)
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Suddenly an elephant charges his cows.
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(TRUMPETING)
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Mamadou fights back,
but armed only with sticks,
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it's a battle of David and Goliath.
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00:07:08,977 --> 00:07:11,537
(SHOUTING)
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00:07:11,577 --> 00:07:14,410
(ELEPHANTS TRUMPETING)
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00:07:24,097 --> 00:07:26,247
(SHOUTS)
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00:07:26,297 --> 00:07:30,927
Mamadou's courage has managed
to shift over 50 elephants.
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00:07:36,857 --> 00:07:40,486
Luckily, conflicts like this
are very rare.
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00:07:50,497 --> 00:07:55,651
Finally Mamadou drives his cattle
towards the life-giving water.
87
00:08:06,057 --> 00:08:10,812
The elephants move off
and find their own part of the lake.
88
00:08:10,857 --> 00:08:12,529
(ELEPHANTS TRUMPETING)
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00:08:12,577 --> 00:08:16,695
At last, they too have
an opportunity to drink...
90
00:08:18,737 --> 00:08:20,250
...and even play.
91
00:08:26,577 --> 00:08:28,568
(BIRDSONG)
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00:08:29,777 --> 00:08:33,372
It will be two months
before there's any chance
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of rain replenishing the water holes,
94
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so Mamadou's struggles will go on.
95
00:08:41,097 --> 00:08:42,894
But in one part of the desert,
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a shrinking water supply leads to
a surprising opportunity.
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00:08:52,857 --> 00:08:57,294
Hundreds of kilometres away,
along the Bandiagara escarpment,
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the sapping 40-degree heat
has sucked the life
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00:09:00,897 --> 00:09:03,411
out of the rivers of Dogon country,
100
00:09:03,457 --> 00:09:05,607
leaving only isolated pools
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stuffed with stranded fish.
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00:09:08,977 --> 00:09:12,936
The Dogon choose this moment
for a desert fishing festival.
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00:09:12,977 --> 00:09:14,205
(GUNSHOT)
104
00:09:16,737 --> 00:09:19,126
(GUNFIRE)
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00:09:20,497 --> 00:09:24,490
Thousands of competitors
are drawn to Lake Antogo,
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including Dialo,
who's been coming here for 30 years.
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00:09:29,217 --> 00:09:32,254
It's a matter of pride for him
to catch a fish.
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On any other day, fishing is strictly
forbidden in this sacred water.
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In this way, the elders protect
an important food reserve
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well into the dry season.
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00:10:00,577 --> 00:10:06,732
But today the community have a chance
to catch a symbolic last supper.
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The banks are filling up quickly.
113
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The atmosphere is tense.
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00:10:22,657 --> 00:10:25,888
Dialo has found a good spot.
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00:10:27,177 --> 00:10:33,013
But now he must wait
since Antogo has its own unwritten rules.
116
00:10:39,737 --> 00:10:45,448
The ceremonial chief chants a prayer
to chase away evil spirits.
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He wears a fish trap, believed to protect
the words as they are spoken.
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This is Dialo's once-a-year chance.
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(BELLS CHIMING)
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- (GUNSHOT)
- (SHOUTING)
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00:11:18,097 --> 00:11:21,772
The free-for-all
quickly becomes a fishing frenzy.
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00:11:21,817 --> 00:11:24,172
(BELLS CHIMING)
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They thrust their baskets down
to trap the fish.
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00:11:40,617 --> 00:11:45,054
Dialo has caught one,
but there's no time for politeness.
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00:12:21,537 --> 00:12:25,450
Afterjust 1 5 minutes,
there's nothing left,
126
00:12:25,497 --> 00:12:27,533
and the chaos subsides.
127
00:12:27,577 --> 00:12:30,887
Dialo is successful but exhausted.
128
00:12:39,177 --> 00:12:44,171
Back at home, his proud catch of fish
becomes a final feast for his family
129
00:12:44,217 --> 00:12:47,573
so they can survive
the last days of the dry season.
130
00:13:08,737 --> 00:13:11,376
Far to the east of the Bandiagara,
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it takes immense navigational skill
just to find water.
132
00:13:15,537 --> 00:13:17,812
(GRUNTING)
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These Tubu women must venture
across the vast sand seas of the Sahara,
134
00:13:24,417 --> 00:13:29,127
in search of a miniature well
just one metre square.
135
00:13:29,177 --> 00:13:32,010
It will mean the difference
between life and death.
136
00:13:49,617 --> 00:13:54,691
They call this place the Tenere -
the land of nothing.
137
00:13:54,737 --> 00:13:59,492
It is featureless, scorching
and unreliable.
138
00:14:02,017 --> 00:14:07,410
Foni is a Tubu woman who can find her way
to water without a map or a compass.
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00:14:14,417 --> 00:14:18,968
She's brought her daughter,
Shede, only ten years old.
140
00:14:19,017 --> 00:14:22,373
The well they seek
is still three days' walk away.
141
00:14:22,417 --> 00:14:26,888
This is the toughest journey
they'll ever face together.
142
00:14:35,817 --> 00:14:40,493
They undertake
this perilous journey for food.
143
00:14:40,537 --> 00:14:44,974
They must cross 240 kilometres
just to get to market,
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to trade camels for supplies
that will last them six months.
145
00:14:50,857 --> 00:14:53,769
This caravan is only women and children,
146
00:14:53,817 --> 00:14:58,368
since, for the Tubu, it's the women
who are the great navigators.
147
00:15:03,577 --> 00:15:07,695
To the untrained eye,
a dune is just a dune.
148
00:15:07,737 --> 00:15:13,494
But Foni can tell which ones to trust,
in a place where nothing stands still.
149
00:15:16,217 --> 00:15:19,812
Smaller dunes shape-shift,
moving with the wind,
150
00:15:19,857 --> 00:15:22,087
making them unreliable.
151
00:15:23,577 --> 00:15:28,970
But larger dunes,
towering over 60 metres, are more stable,
152
00:15:29,017 --> 00:15:31,770
revealing signs of a much bigger picture.
153
00:15:34,137 --> 00:15:35,536
Over thousands of years,
154
00:15:35,577 --> 00:15:40,810
prevailing desert winds have blown dunes
into long parallel ridges,
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the only landmarks for the travellers.
156
00:15:47,017 --> 00:15:51,693
The Tubu look to the sun and the ridge
line to work out which direction to go.
157
00:15:51,737 --> 00:15:56,413
Then they count each ridge
to know how far they've gone.
158
00:16:04,257 --> 00:16:08,250
They've been walking for ten hours
in the blazing sun.
159
00:16:08,297 --> 00:16:10,253
They must rest.
160
00:16:17,017 --> 00:16:22,489
They make their camp out of
a single sheet, and ration their water.
161
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(CAMEL GRUNTS)
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The camels'share is mixed with oats,
while the women drink sweet tea.
163
00:17:04,297 --> 00:17:08,768
They rise early,
before the sun gets too hot.
164
00:17:10,657 --> 00:17:13,455
They only carry enough water
to get to the well,
165
00:17:13,497 --> 00:17:16,569
so the pace they travel is key.
166
00:17:20,657 --> 00:17:24,809
This specialist understanding
of the desert is fast disappearing.
167
00:17:24,857 --> 00:17:29,328
Today only a few hundred Tubu women
possess the knowledge.
168
00:17:31,657 --> 00:17:34,376
Foni believes that, by teaching Shede,
169
00:17:34,417 --> 00:17:37,773
she can keep it alive
for another generation.
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00:17:57,177 --> 00:17:59,247
When darkness falls,
171
00:17:59,297 --> 00:18:04,052
Foni also teaches Shede
how to read the night sky.
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(CHATTER AND LAUGHTER)
173
00:18:19,777 --> 00:18:23,565
For now, at least,
they know they're on the right path.
174
00:18:25,817 --> 00:18:27,773
(CAMEL GROWLS)
175
00:18:27,817 --> 00:18:30,650
It's day three.
176
00:18:30,697 --> 00:18:32,847
Today they must find the well.
177
00:18:34,657 --> 00:18:38,889
While packing up, Foni decides
Shede is ready to take charge.
178
00:18:38,937 --> 00:18:41,292
(CAMEL GROWLS)
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00:18:43,177 --> 00:18:44,815
But the well is so hidden
180
00:18:44,857 --> 00:18:49,009
that even if she's only a few hundred
metres away, she could miss it.
181
00:18:50,097 --> 00:18:52,167
(CAMEL GROWLS)
182
00:18:54,337 --> 00:18:56,805
She sets them off in the right direction,
183
00:18:56,857 --> 00:19:01,885
aligning herself between the ridges ahead
and the sunrise to the east.
184
00:19:03,937 --> 00:19:07,646
For some children Shede's age,
just ten years old,
185
00:19:07,697 --> 00:19:10,495
finding their way to school
is challenge enough.
186
00:19:12,377 --> 00:19:17,531
But Shede has to find her way 20 miles
across the bleakest landscape on Earth.
187
00:19:23,497 --> 00:19:26,534
But with her mother's guiding words
echoing in her head,
188
00:19:26,577 --> 00:19:28,966
she strides forward.
189
00:19:32,057 --> 00:19:38,212
After a gruelling 1 2-hours'riding,
the tenth ridge is finally in sight.
190
00:19:41,577 --> 00:19:45,490
The lonely bush in the dip of the dune
marks the valley of the well.
191
00:19:57,977 --> 00:20:01,811
Shede has found the only well
for 80 kilometres around.
192
00:20:03,177 --> 00:20:05,645
She's made her mum proud.
193
00:20:13,017 --> 00:20:16,373
Finally, Shede can water the camels.
194
00:20:24,097 --> 00:20:28,568
With their thirst quenched,
she washes off three days of dust.
195
00:20:28,617 --> 00:20:30,812
(GIGGLING)
196
00:20:32,257 --> 00:20:36,091
Now they've got water,
they'll make it to market,
197
00:20:36,137 --> 00:20:39,732
but they're still weeks away
from finishing theirjourney.
198
00:20:44,457 --> 00:20:47,733
Not all deserts are swelteringly hot.
199
00:20:49,217 --> 00:20:52,892
The Gobi in Mongolia is
a desert of extremes.
200
00:20:52,937 --> 00:20:55,656
Lying far north of the equator,
201
00:20:55,697 --> 00:21:01,135
here scorching summer highs plunge
to freezing Arctic lows.
202
00:21:02,537 --> 00:21:05,813
It's February, minus 20 degrees Celsius,
203
00:21:05,857 --> 00:21:09,975
and the few wells people have
are frozen over.
204
00:21:13,177 --> 00:21:17,216
But, amazingly,
water appears here as snow.
205
00:21:19,257 --> 00:21:21,407
The snow doesn't fall here.
206
00:21:21,457 --> 00:21:25,245
It's blown over 3,000 kilometres
from Siberia.
207
00:21:25,297 --> 00:21:28,926
And these bitter winds means
it never settles for long.
208
00:21:32,657 --> 00:21:37,173
So, Ganbold
and his twin-humped Bactrian camels
209
00:21:37,217 --> 00:21:41,495
must chase the snow
towards the mountains where it lingers.
210
00:21:41,537 --> 00:21:44,131
This rare snow is a lifeline.
211
00:21:52,457 --> 00:21:54,732
It's so important,
212
00:21:54,777 --> 00:21:58,895
he and his family have set up
their winter camp in the foothills.
213
00:22:00,057 --> 00:22:02,173
But he's taking a risk.
214
00:22:03,337 --> 00:22:05,897
His herd, including pregnant females,
215
00:22:05,937 --> 00:22:10,215
are now in the hunting grounds
of a voracious desert predator,
216
00:22:10,257 --> 00:22:14,455
and they like nothing better
than newborn camel flesh.
217
00:22:30,937 --> 00:22:34,930
Gobi desert wolves roam
over thousands of kilometres.
218
00:22:35,977 --> 00:22:40,448
Their keen sense of smell
helps them shadow the herds at a distance.
219
00:22:42,817 --> 00:22:47,447
If Ganbold drops his guard,
they'll attack.
220
00:22:48,737 --> 00:22:52,810
He returns to camp to hear that
his son has interrupted a wolf attack.
221
00:22:52,857 --> 00:22:55,530
One sheep has been killed.
222
00:22:55,577 --> 00:22:57,966
(BLEATING)
223
00:23:15,457 --> 00:23:20,326
As evening falls,
an icy dust storm builds.
224
00:23:29,217 --> 00:23:31,651
(GROWLING)
225
00:23:33,097 --> 00:23:37,534
In the warm tent,
wolves are the only topic of conversation.
226
00:24:03,177 --> 00:24:08,535
At midnight, Ganbold checks
his pregnant camels one last time.
227
00:24:15,417 --> 00:24:19,126
He suddenly realises
his prize female is missing
228
00:24:19,177 --> 00:24:22,772
but, with the storm,
they can't look for her until daylight.
229
00:24:42,297 --> 00:24:46,176
Come dawn, the search is on to find out
what has become of her
230
00:24:46,217 --> 00:24:48,447
and her unborn calf.
231
00:25:01,177 --> 00:25:04,010
Ganbold musters his friends.
232
00:25:04,057 --> 00:25:07,333
It's a race between them and the wolves.
233
00:25:12,497 --> 00:25:14,806
They find tracks.
234
00:25:20,417 --> 00:25:25,969
Ganbold heads to the highest ridge,
and the scale of his task becomes clear.
235
00:25:42,857 --> 00:25:44,370
More fresh tracks.
236
00:26:04,777 --> 00:26:07,575
They've seen off the enemy,
237
00:26:07,617 --> 00:26:10,336
but is the camel nearby?
238
00:26:14,537 --> 00:26:17,097
Finally, they see a shape.
239
00:26:17,137 --> 00:26:19,332
(CAMEL GRUNTS)
240
00:26:21,577 --> 00:26:24,853
Ganbold's beloved camel is alive.
241
00:26:24,897 --> 00:26:27,365
And she's given birth.
242
00:26:31,977 --> 00:26:34,207
But the calf isn't moving.
243
00:26:36,417 --> 00:26:39,329
Tchoo! Tchoo!
244
00:26:43,337 --> 00:26:45,214
(CAMEL GRUNTS)
245
00:26:45,257 --> 00:26:48,533
To his great relief,
the calf is breathing.
246
00:26:49,577 --> 00:26:51,533
(SIGHS)
247
00:26:54,897 --> 00:26:57,730
Ooh! Ha-ha-ha!
248
00:27:08,217 --> 00:27:13,371
Only a few hours old,
the calf is too weak to walk back to camp.
249
00:27:13,417 --> 00:27:15,851
So Ganbold gives it a lift.
250
00:27:19,617 --> 00:27:22,415
(CAMEL SQUAWKS)
251
00:27:24,017 --> 00:27:25,848
His son rushes out to help
252
00:27:25,897 --> 00:27:30,732
and his other boys meet
the latest addition to the herd.
253
00:27:30,777 --> 00:27:33,689
- (SHEEP BLEATING)
- (BOY LAUGHS)
254
00:27:33,737 --> 00:27:37,093
Ganbold gives thanks for his good fortune.
255
00:27:42,697 --> 00:27:48,329
Unlike the Gobi, there are some deserts
where water never exists.
256
00:27:49,577 --> 00:27:55,846
In the Chilean Atacama desert, some areas
are as desolate as the surface of Mars.
257
00:27:55,897 --> 00:27:59,970
This is the driest place on Earth.
258
00:28:02,217 --> 00:28:08,611
Here people have been inspired by nature
to conjure water from thin air.
259
00:28:10,897 --> 00:28:15,448
Cactus flowers are a source of food
for the guanacos,
260
00:28:15,497 --> 00:28:17,772
the wild camels of South America.
261
00:28:18,817 --> 00:28:24,175
But these cacti are also the key
to their water supply.
262
00:28:24,217 --> 00:28:28,654
They're covered in furry lichen,
which traps any moisture in the air.
263
00:28:30,897 --> 00:28:36,130
Orlando has taken inspiration
from the cacti's natural solution.
264
00:28:36,177 --> 00:28:41,251
With his friends,
he erects a vast net six metres high.
265
00:28:57,617 --> 00:29:02,247
The net's mesh is designed
to mimic the lichen hairs,
266
00:29:02,297 --> 00:29:05,846
because in this coastal strip
of the Atacama desert
267
00:29:05,897 --> 00:29:10,846
they have a lifeline to moisture -
the Pacific Ocean.
268
00:29:14,297 --> 00:29:17,972
Here, cold sea currents cool
the hot desert air
269
00:29:18,017 --> 00:29:20,577
and produce huge fog blankets.
270
00:29:28,417 --> 00:29:31,056
The fog is sucked ashore...
271
00:29:32,177 --> 00:29:35,055
...and sweeps over the cacti...
272
00:29:36,457 --> 00:29:39,847
...and also Orlando's nets.
273
00:29:43,697 --> 00:29:48,817
When the fog hits the cacti,
it condenses onto the lichen hairs,
274
00:29:48,857 --> 00:29:51,291
which capture the precious water.
275
00:29:55,057 --> 00:29:58,606
In no time,
the cacti are dripping with dew.
276
00:30:04,777 --> 00:30:08,531
On the nets, the fog does
exactly the same.
277
00:30:08,577 --> 00:30:13,605
Drop by precious drop, this miracle water
is channelled to a reservoir.
278
00:30:39,937 --> 00:30:45,728
Each day, these magical nets produce
nearly 500 litres of water...
279
00:30:47,057 --> 00:30:50,606
...which allows Orlando to nurture
a few plants in the sand.
280
00:30:50,657 --> 00:30:53,967
But he has bigger ideas.
281
00:31:03,697 --> 00:31:05,688
This is just the latest innovation
282
00:31:05,737 --> 00:31:09,696
in the eternal human quest
to find water in the desert.
283
00:31:14,457 --> 00:31:17,608
Around the world,
signs are etched in the landscape.
284
00:31:17,657 --> 00:31:21,093
Scars show where water used to flow.
285
00:31:22,337 --> 00:31:27,889
7,000 years ago, the Sahara was crossed
by a network of rivers and lakes,
286
00:31:27,937 --> 00:31:30,656
which disappeared as it turned to desert.
287
00:31:31,657 --> 00:31:36,447
Yet, in this now barren land,
some of this water remains
288
00:31:36,497 --> 00:31:38,852
deep in rocks underground.
289
00:31:43,137 --> 00:31:46,049
In Ba'amar, central Algeria,
290
00:31:46,097 --> 00:31:50,170
their extraordinary skill
is to tap into this ancient water.
291
00:31:50,217 --> 00:31:51,855
(CHANTING)
292
00:31:51,897 --> 00:31:54,730
But you have to know how to harness it.
293
00:31:56,297 --> 00:32:01,576
Mafourdi is 70 years old,
and committed to a life in the desert.
294
00:32:07,457 --> 00:32:13,089
Every morning after prayer,
the men head off to find water.
295
00:32:15,657 --> 00:32:21,334
With stubborn devotion and very
simple tools, they have dug a well.
296
00:32:23,377 --> 00:32:28,167
It's taken them six months to carve out
a shaft through the desert rock.
297
00:32:28,217 --> 00:32:31,766
Only now are they ready
for their most dangerous mission.
298
00:32:36,377 --> 00:32:41,451
As the oldest and the most experienced,
Mafourdi climbs down alone.
299
00:32:41,497 --> 00:32:44,614
It's a sheer nine-metre drop.
300
00:33:08,697 --> 00:33:10,767
(SHOUTS)
301
00:33:12,897 --> 00:33:17,652
At the bottom lies knee-deep water
in hand-dug passages.
302
00:33:17,697 --> 00:33:21,929
Mafourdi knows they are vital
to keep the water supply flowing.
303
00:33:23,097 --> 00:33:28,330
But many men have been buried alive
down here, when the walls have collapsed.
304
00:33:31,377 --> 00:33:34,608
The water seeps from the rocks themselves.
305
00:33:36,497 --> 00:33:41,935
Mafourdi has released it from
thousands of years trapped in the rock.
306
00:33:41,977 --> 00:33:44,047
This ancient water
307
00:33:44,097 --> 00:33:47,726
is all that's left of the rivers
that used to flow across the land above.
308
00:33:59,417 --> 00:34:01,977
But one well isn't enough.
309
00:34:02,017 --> 00:34:04,247
The real trick is to connect several wells
310
00:34:04,297 --> 00:34:08,131
and create
an underground channel of water.
311
00:34:13,377 --> 00:34:17,131
Mafourdi's neighbour, Abdullah,
has also been digging a well
312
00:34:17,177 --> 00:34:19,133
for the last six months.
313
00:34:19,177 --> 00:34:21,771
Today's the day they're going to join up.
314
00:34:34,217 --> 00:34:37,050
But Abdullah must leave Mafourdi.
315
00:34:37,097 --> 00:34:40,612
Joining the tunnels
is the most dangerous part.
316
00:34:43,737 --> 00:34:47,969
With so much earth removed, 30 foot
of rock could collapse at any moment.
317
00:34:48,017 --> 00:34:51,214
It would crush Mafourdi,
with no hope of escape.
318
00:34:57,177 --> 00:35:00,806
Back at the surface,
Abdullah prays for Mafourdi.
319
00:35:20,577 --> 00:35:22,249
(PRAYING)
320
00:35:27,737 --> 00:35:30,649
Finally, Mafourdi has broken through.
321
00:35:30,697 --> 00:35:32,847
But will the walls hold?
322
00:35:37,497 --> 00:35:39,727
(PRAYING)
323
00:36:02,017 --> 00:36:06,886
This new channel is just part
of a much bigger system.
324
00:36:06,937 --> 00:36:09,690
Every generation for the last 700 years
325
00:36:09,737 --> 00:36:13,093
has been digging new wells
and connecting them up.
326
00:36:16,257 --> 00:36:19,932
There are over 800 wells here now,
327
00:36:19,977 --> 00:36:23,970
channelling water
60 kilometres under the desert floor.
328
00:36:26,617 --> 00:36:32,089
The passages are cut so that the water
continually runs slightly downhill.
329
00:36:34,897 --> 00:36:37,457
When it reaches the surface,
it's divided up
330
00:36:37,497 --> 00:36:41,172
to sustain a village
that otherwise wouldn't exist.
331
00:36:46,657 --> 00:36:52,209
With his share of the water, Mafourdi
has created an oasis to grow date palms.
332
00:36:57,097 --> 00:37:01,375
And this attracts
all sorts of surprising visitors.
333
00:37:13,897 --> 00:37:19,051
Once you have a permanent water supply,
anything's possible.
334
00:37:22,057 --> 00:37:24,093
In America's state of Nevada,
335
00:37:24,137 --> 00:37:27,368
Las Vegas pushes desert living
to the extreme.
336
00:37:28,577 --> 00:37:32,013
It breaks all the rules.
337
00:37:32,057 --> 00:37:35,333
It is one of the fastest growing cities
in the US,
338
00:37:35,377 --> 00:37:38,892
using more water per person
than almost anywhere else in the world.
339
00:37:38,937 --> 00:37:44,330
Is this humanity realising
an impossible dream?
340
00:37:44,377 --> 00:37:47,175
Or is it just a neon mirage?
341
00:37:51,777 --> 00:37:56,726
The deserts of the world are littered with
ruins of boom-and-bust civilisations
342
00:37:56,777 --> 00:37:58,654
where the water ran out.
343
00:38:01,657 --> 00:38:06,333
Petra in Jordan was an ancient city
which once had an aqueduct system
344
00:38:06,377 --> 00:38:11,405
delivering 40 million litres of water
a day to 20,000 people.
345
00:38:19,137 --> 00:38:23,813
For most desert dwellers,
life revolves around the meagre rains.
346
00:38:24,897 --> 00:38:29,254
Only with rain can they hope
to survive the next blazing year.
347
00:38:31,097 --> 00:38:35,249
But in Mali, desert rains are
anything but reliable.
348
00:38:39,337 --> 00:38:43,171
Some years, they don't come at all.
349
00:38:43,217 --> 00:38:45,685
(CHATTER)
350
00:38:45,737 --> 00:38:48,934
But if they do,
the villagers know they come violently
351
00:38:48,977 --> 00:38:52,287
so they must make their granaries
watertight.
352
00:38:52,337 --> 00:38:54,214
(CHATTER)
353
00:38:58,617 --> 00:39:02,007
The rains are preceded by sandstorms,
354
00:39:02,057 --> 00:39:07,131
so now people watch the skies,
waiting for a rampaging wall of dust.
355
00:39:15,617 --> 00:39:20,645
At 50 kilometres wide, and advancing
at a speed of 1 00 kilometres an hour,
356
00:39:20,697 --> 00:39:24,087
the sandstorm engulfs the village
in minutes.
357
00:39:56,177 --> 00:40:00,090
But people know
this darkness is ultimately a good sign.
358
00:40:06,857 --> 00:40:08,609
Finally the rain is unleashed.
359
00:40:08,657 --> 00:40:13,014
1 5 centimetres falls in 20 minutes,
360
00:40:13,057 --> 00:40:17,130
turning the desert into
a network of streams.
361
00:40:21,657 --> 00:40:26,094
Having waited all year,
it's suddenly a moment to rejoice.
362
00:40:26,137 --> 00:40:28,128
(CHATTER)
363
00:41:03,017 --> 00:41:07,932
In deserts across the world,
rains transform the landscape.
364
00:41:11,537 --> 00:41:16,531
This is the one moment when life is
no longer about the quest for water.
365
00:41:16,577 --> 00:41:18,693
The pressure's off.
366
00:41:24,897 --> 00:41:28,173
For the Wodaabe people
of Niger, West Africa,
367
00:41:28,217 --> 00:41:31,607
this is their window of opportunity
for love.
368
00:41:32,817 --> 00:41:34,330
(COWS MOOING)
369
00:41:37,897 --> 00:41:39,967
When the rains are good enough,
370
00:41:40,017 --> 00:41:43,327
they can abandon
their normally isolated lives.
371
00:41:43,377 --> 00:41:46,847
There's enough food and water
to support a few hundred Wodaabe
372
00:41:46,897 --> 00:41:50,890
coming together for one of
the most extraordinary gatherings
373
00:41:50,937 --> 00:41:53,770
of fertility and flirtation in the world.
374
00:41:57,137 --> 00:42:00,652
In this hive of activity is Djao.
375
00:42:00,697 --> 00:42:05,646
He's walked 80 kilometres to be here,
for a contest called Gerewol.
376
00:42:06,737 --> 00:42:09,695
It's a courtship dance for sex.
377
00:42:10,737 --> 00:42:13,695
Winning means he'll get a new lover.
378
00:42:30,537 --> 00:42:32,289
This year is special.
379
00:42:32,337 --> 00:42:36,535
It's the first Gerewol
after six years of drought,
380
00:42:36,577 --> 00:42:39,853
so expectations are running high.
381
00:42:41,937 --> 00:42:48,172
Djao is already married,
and his wife Tembe is here too.
382
00:42:48,217 --> 00:42:51,334
Indeed, this festival
is full of married couples.
383
00:42:51,377 --> 00:42:54,255
Wodaabe culture allows both men and women
384
00:42:54,297 --> 00:42:59,166
to set aside their marriage vows
without stigma for these few days.
385
00:43:00,857 --> 00:43:04,167
Tembe is up for a fling herself.
386
00:43:04,217 --> 00:43:06,094
(BABY GRIZZLES)
387
00:43:13,217 --> 00:43:17,893
But she knows
her husband is also a great catch.
388
00:43:34,857 --> 00:43:36,848
(TEMBE LAUGHS)
389
00:43:36,897 --> 00:43:40,776
But, for this flirting contest,
it's the women who choose
390
00:43:40,817 --> 00:43:44,935
and, surprisingly, the men who dress up.
391
00:43:51,617 --> 00:43:57,055
Djao's beauty, dancing and singing
will be scrutinised.
392
00:43:57,097 --> 00:44:00,248
His big performance is just hours away.
393
00:44:08,337 --> 00:44:12,649
The men decorate themselves
with coloured clays from the desert...
394
00:44:14,257 --> 00:44:20,014
...with the crushed, charred bones
of egrets for their black lipstick,
395
00:44:20,057 --> 00:44:25,575
and with perfumes from desert plants
to make themselves irresistible.
396
00:44:28,097 --> 00:44:31,134
It's time for Djao to face the music.
397
00:44:31,177 --> 00:44:34,135
- (CHANTING)
- (BELLS CHIMING)
398
00:44:41,937 --> 00:44:44,007
(CHANTING)
399
00:44:48,497 --> 00:44:53,366
The men come under close scrutiny
from an opinionated crowd.
400
00:44:53,417 --> 00:44:55,453
(CHANTING)
401
00:45:00,777 --> 00:45:04,816
As one line of dancers leave,
Djao steps into the arena.
402
00:45:04,857 --> 00:45:08,406
He's desperate to be chosen
by one of the three girl judges
403
00:45:08,457 --> 00:45:10,129
for a night of desert passion.
404
00:45:13,417 --> 00:45:16,295
(CHANTING)
405
00:45:16,337 --> 00:45:19,807
The girls are looking for specific things.
406
00:45:19,857 --> 00:45:23,645
He must keep great poise, like an egret.
407
00:45:23,697 --> 00:45:27,656
He must show his teeth,
flutter his lips and sing from his throat.
408
00:45:27,697 --> 00:45:29,767
He must dance in time
409
00:45:29,817 --> 00:45:33,492
and use his shoulders
to keep his position in the line.
410
00:45:33,537 --> 00:45:35,528
(CHANTING)
411
00:46:00,017 --> 00:46:02,895
The pressure's on for Djao.
412
00:46:02,937 --> 00:46:07,533
Any slip now, and he'll lose
what he's waited seven years for.
413
00:46:14,977 --> 00:46:19,289
After five hours,
it's the moment of truth.
414
00:46:24,977 --> 00:46:27,730
All three judges approach
to choose their champions.
415
00:46:36,097 --> 00:46:37,769
The first walks up the line
416
00:46:37,817 --> 00:46:42,447
and, with a subtle gesture,
indicates the man of her dreams.
417
00:46:46,497 --> 00:46:49,409
But she doesn't choose Djao.
418
00:46:51,417 --> 00:46:54,090
Neither does the second.
419
00:46:58,337 --> 00:47:00,373
Nor the third.
420
00:47:03,217 --> 00:47:05,253
Djao has missed his chance.
421
00:47:05,297 --> 00:47:08,892
His best efforts weren't enough
to win a lover.
422
00:47:10,697 --> 00:47:15,407
It'll be at least a year before he has
the opportunity to dance again.
423
00:47:24,497 --> 00:47:26,806
Tembe is looking for Djao.
424
00:47:29,017 --> 00:47:31,451
Many new couples are hanging out,
425
00:47:31,497 --> 00:47:35,172
but at least Djao and Tembe
still have each other.
426
00:47:44,137 --> 00:47:49,052
So, the men and women disperse,
some with new lovers, some with old,
427
00:47:49,097 --> 00:47:54,296
but all have been touched
by the flush of fertility and community
428
00:47:54,337 --> 00:47:58,046
before they return
to the isolation of the desert.
429
00:48:14,177 --> 00:48:18,534
Deserts are landscapes
of brutal simplicity.
430
00:48:18,577 --> 00:48:22,536
They provide so little and demand so much.
431
00:48:25,777 --> 00:48:27,972
But, with courage,
432
00:48:28,017 --> 00:48:32,135
with endurance and intelligence...
433
00:48:33,537 --> 00:48:36,370
...with devotion and ingenuity...
434
00:48:37,417 --> 00:48:42,969
...desert people have found ways
to conjure life from so little water.
435
00:48:45,497 --> 00:48:48,375
- (GUNSHOT)
- (BELLS CHIMING)
436
00:48:53,697 --> 00:49:00,091
Against the odds, they have turned
a life of thirst into a thirst for life.
437
00:49:19,697 --> 00:49:23,167
The only way to reveal
the truly epic nature
438
00:49:23,217 --> 00:49:26,846
of the Tubu women's Sahara crossing
was to film from the air.
439
00:49:31,777 --> 00:49:35,611
The best tool for this job
was a Cinebulle -
440
00:49:35,657 --> 00:49:38,854
a hot-air balloon with a small motor.
441
00:49:38,897 --> 00:49:43,413
But temperamental technology
and cantankerous camels
442
00:49:43,457 --> 00:49:47,848
combined to make this
the hardest desert shoot of all.
443
00:49:53,897 --> 00:49:56,695
It took three days of hard driving
444
00:49:56,737 --> 00:50:01,128
before cameraman Toby Strong and the crew
could reach the women and start filming.
445
00:50:03,217 --> 00:50:05,208
(SHOUTS)
446
00:50:05,257 --> 00:50:07,373
Driving in the desert, it's so difficult.
447
00:50:07,417 --> 00:50:08,896
You've got all these ridges, troughs.
448
00:50:08,937 --> 00:50:12,373
The guys are going down stuff like this
and we're getting stuck all the time.
449
00:50:12,417 --> 00:50:15,250
That means everyone stopping,
everyone out.
450
00:50:15,297 --> 00:50:18,892
It's frustrating, but it's the nature
of the beast. We're here in the desert.
451
00:50:21,777 --> 00:50:26,532
They reach the launch site
and start assembling the Cinebulle.
452
00:50:26,577 --> 00:50:29,489
Dany Cleyet-Marrel designed it
specifically for filming.
453
00:50:30,777 --> 00:50:34,087
With only a small engine,
it flies best in the cool morning air
454
00:50:34,137 --> 00:50:36,890
with no more than a light breeze.
455
00:50:43,337 --> 00:50:45,726
This is my first time up in a...
in a Cinebulle.
456
00:50:45,777 --> 00:50:49,133
I've got two friends, two cameramen,
who've been up in this.
457
00:50:49,177 --> 00:50:52,169
The first one, they crashed into a tree,
458
00:50:52,217 --> 00:50:57,849
and on the second occasion,
that caught fire, the actual engine.
459
00:50:59,697 --> 00:51:01,335
What I think we're gonna do is go up,
460
00:51:01,377 --> 00:51:04,016
and I might have lied a little bit
about how heavy I am,
461
00:51:04,057 --> 00:51:06,491
so we might find out
that he needs a little more gas.
462
00:51:06,537 --> 00:51:08,926
Kind of a bit of test flight, like that.
463
00:51:08,977 --> 00:51:13,971
But the camels haven't read the schedule
and they've gone to the four corners.
464
00:51:14,017 --> 00:51:18,135
Every night, the camels are released
to search for food.
465
00:51:18,177 --> 00:51:23,126
So, each morning, it takes time
to round them up again.
466
00:51:23,177 --> 00:51:26,374
OK, we have to go, we have to go.
It will be too late after.
467
00:51:28,257 --> 00:51:30,930
When the camels are finally ready,
468
00:51:30,977 --> 00:51:35,050
Toby and Dany set off
to film the women loading up.
469
00:51:35,097 --> 00:51:37,565
But the shoot doesn't go well.
470
00:51:39,497 --> 00:51:41,886
What happened was, the balloon took off,
471
00:51:41,937 --> 00:51:46,055
the butane gas has been cold overnight,
and the burner was cutting out.
472
00:51:47,257 --> 00:51:49,452
They almost came down
within the women and the camels.
473
00:51:51,417 --> 00:51:55,774
And then the balloon came down,
bounced, took off again,
474
00:51:55,817 --> 00:51:57,967
completely freaking out the camels.
475
00:51:58,017 --> 00:51:59,928
So, not a very good start to the morning.
476
00:52:02,057 --> 00:52:03,649
TOBY: We lost the burner four times,
477
00:52:03,697 --> 00:52:08,725
plummeted down over the camels,
the Tubu women and the kids.
478
00:52:08,777 --> 00:52:11,416
Obviously, freaked them out.
Freaked me out a little bit.
479
00:52:11,457 --> 00:52:14,255
So, that wasn't great on the first flight.
480
00:52:14,297 --> 00:52:19,815
After a few more flights,
Toby becomes acutely aware of the wind.
481
00:52:19,857 --> 00:52:22,815
TOBY: Working with Cinebulles
is almost exactly like a boat.
482
00:52:22,857 --> 00:52:24,256
You've got the wind going
in that direction
483
00:52:24,297 --> 00:52:28,051
and, although the Cinebulle's got a motor,
you can't really go against the wind.
484
00:52:28,097 --> 00:52:30,565
So, you've really only got
one pop at each shot.
485
00:52:30,617 --> 00:52:32,926
Difficult with the wind.
486
00:52:34,257 --> 00:52:37,374
TOBY: We're fighting the wind, engine's
rewing and there's vibration and shake.
487
00:52:37,417 --> 00:52:41,012
I've only got a very limited arc
to pan around.
488
00:52:41,057 --> 00:52:43,287
So, there's a huge amount of skill
involved from Dany
489
00:52:43,337 --> 00:52:46,852
and the guys on the ground
getting the camels going the right way.
490
00:52:46,897 --> 00:52:48,933
So, it's a massive logistical operation.
491
00:52:48,977 --> 00:52:51,775
In the beginning we had
a problem with the gas,
492
00:52:51,817 --> 00:52:53,728
and after, a problem with the wind.
493
00:52:53,777 --> 00:52:56,052
But tomorrow will be better.
494
00:52:56,097 --> 00:52:58,088
(CHUCKLES)
495
00:52:59,857 --> 00:53:03,816
The next day, after an early flight,
they face another problem.
496
00:53:03,857 --> 00:53:07,850
The Tubu women don't hang around
for the crew to pack up the Cinebulle.
497
00:53:10,697 --> 00:53:14,372
They only have enough provisions
for a normal trek across the desert,
498
00:53:14,417 --> 00:53:16,169
so the team has to play catch-up.
499
00:53:16,217 --> 00:53:18,970
TOBY: We've no idea
where our camels have gone.
500
00:53:19,017 --> 00:53:22,327
There's 25 camels out there, you'd think
we'll find them, but it's not...
501
00:53:22,377 --> 00:53:26,495
you know, you look around and it is
just like an ocean with a gentle swell.
502
00:53:26,537 --> 00:53:29,847
So we're just driving round peak to peak,
seeing if we can spot them.
503
00:53:32,497 --> 00:53:35,534
Good news, we've hit
the main caravan route,
504
00:53:35,577 --> 00:53:38,045
which is a bit like...bit like the M6,
505
00:53:38,097 --> 00:53:42,488
and even better news, there's a few groups
of camels coming this way.
506
00:53:42,537 --> 00:53:46,894
The boys, with better eyes than I, say
they think that this is some of our group,
507
00:53:46,937 --> 00:53:48,848
so it's good news.
508
00:53:55,297 --> 00:53:56,810
With the camels in place,
509
00:53:56,857 --> 00:54:01,567
Toby and Dany at last see the opportunity
for getting some really good shots.
510
00:54:04,537 --> 00:54:07,734
- DANY: Not so bad.
- TOBY: It's nice.
511
00:54:12,017 --> 00:54:13,973
I think we've got some nice shots.
512
00:54:14,017 --> 00:54:16,531
And then at the end,
we went up really high,
513
00:54:16,577 --> 00:54:19,728
and to see the whole desert opened up
was extraordinary.
514
00:54:19,777 --> 00:54:21,096
That was a good flight.
515
00:54:22,177 --> 00:54:26,170
They've had some success,
but the biggest challenge lies ahead -
516
00:54:26,217 --> 00:54:28,777
filming the women's arrival at the well.
517
00:54:28,817 --> 00:54:32,935
But on a dusty night,
the stars of the show go missing.
518
00:54:32,977 --> 00:54:35,969
TOBY: We've just been using
our big spotlight as a beacon,
519
00:54:36,017 --> 00:54:38,451
because three of the women
and six of the camels
520
00:54:38,497 --> 00:54:40,135
didn't make it into camp tonight
521
00:54:40,177 --> 00:54:43,408
and here in the desert, there's
a very good chance of people getting lost.
522
00:54:43,457 --> 00:54:47,336
Thankfully, it worked, so everyone is
safely into camp for the night,
523
00:54:47,377 --> 00:54:48,696
which is brilliant news.
524
00:54:50,177 --> 00:54:52,566
It's only when the sun's gone down
525
00:54:52,617 --> 00:54:56,166
that Toby has time
to deal with a domestic problem.
526
00:54:56,217 --> 00:54:59,175
We brought out 30-odd cases from England.
527
00:54:59,217 --> 00:55:02,254
One bag didn't turn up,
and that bag was my clothes.
528
00:55:02,297 --> 00:55:05,175
So, couldn't wait for it,
had to come into the desert,
529
00:55:05,217 --> 00:55:09,290
and that is why I'm washing my shirt
quite regularly
530
00:55:09,337 --> 00:55:12,329
in, er...my allowance of water.
531
00:55:15,697 --> 00:55:20,213
None of this goes to waste. This water
will be used for...for tea tomorrow.
532
00:55:22,457 --> 00:55:23,856
No, it won't.
533
00:55:27,057 --> 00:55:30,094
The next morning
is the most important one.
534
00:55:30,137 --> 00:55:31,855
The women are due to arrive at the well
535
00:55:31,897 --> 00:55:33,967
after days of navigating
across the desert.
536
00:55:34,017 --> 00:55:37,327
It's crucial that Toby gets shots
of them arriving,
537
00:55:37,377 --> 00:55:40,687
but, as usual, there are difficulties.
538
00:55:43,617 --> 00:55:47,246
The logistics involved
of finding where the well is
539
00:55:47,297 --> 00:55:50,494
and then driving the whole way round
so as not to get any tyre tracks.
540
00:55:50,537 --> 00:55:53,051
Dany having to guess
where the wind's coming from.
541
00:55:53,097 --> 00:55:57,215
The whole logistical operation of getting
right here, for this point, is enormous
542
00:55:57,257 --> 00:55:59,851
and we've just about managed
to get it right.
543
00:55:59,897 --> 00:56:02,206
We're all here, we're ready to go.
544
00:56:02,257 --> 00:56:05,010
The wind is perfect. Dany got it spot-on.
545
00:56:05,057 --> 00:56:10,256
And the camels are maybe 45 minutes away.
So, it's...it's massively frustrating.
546
00:56:10,297 --> 00:56:15,451
Now it's absolutely perfect. No camels.
547
00:56:15,497 --> 00:56:20,412
Yet again, the camels have gone off
foraging in the night,
548
00:56:20,457 --> 00:56:25,133
then, at last, as the sun rises,
they appear over the horizon.
549
00:56:30,857 --> 00:56:32,734
Everything comes together.
550
00:56:32,777 --> 00:56:35,211
The women and the camels are ready,
551
00:56:35,257 --> 00:56:39,375
and, with no wind, Toby is able
to move around them in the early light,
552
00:56:39,417 --> 00:56:42,454
capturing a magical scene.
553
00:57:21,177 --> 00:57:24,886
As the women close in on the town of Fachi
at the end of the trek,
554
00:57:24,937 --> 00:57:29,215
the crew can finally relax,
with their problems behind them.
555
00:57:29,257 --> 00:57:35,526
Nice. It was a very, very nice flight.
Nice light. Good speed of wind.
556
00:57:35,577 --> 00:57:36,805
We've got a problem.
557
00:57:36,857 --> 00:57:40,167
I thought we landed far enough away
from town to be out of everyone's way.
558
00:57:40,217 --> 00:57:43,766
But lurking to the horizon...and there are
hundreds of specks
559
00:57:43,817 --> 00:57:46,206
running this way.
I reckon we've got three minutes
560
00:57:46,257 --> 00:57:48,930
before we're completely engulfed.
561
00:57:48,977 --> 00:57:52,492
OK, I think Dany's off to, er...
intercept the hordes.
562
00:57:58,977 --> 00:58:01,411
Those kids must be so excited.
563
00:58:01,457 --> 00:58:03,687
I think Dany's got a bit of a treat
for them.
564
00:58:06,257 --> 00:58:08,248
(WHOOSH)
565
00:58:16,177 --> 00:58:20,568
To the delight of all, the crew
have triumphed against the odds...
566
00:58:20,617 --> 00:58:23,370
and the stubborn camels.
567
00:58:23,417 --> 00:58:25,373
(CHEERING)
48023
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