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[Lucia Barrios] If
you go to the coast--
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[clapping]
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00:00:05,672 --> 00:00:06,965
If you go to the jungle--
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[clapping]
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If you go to the highlands,
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00:00:11,720 --> 00:00:13,680
wherever you go in Guatemala,
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you will always hear,
you know, the clapping.
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[clapping]
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It's the heartbeat
of the tortilla.
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[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard]
You're in for a treat!
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Eating a Guatemalan tortilla
is an explosion of flavors.
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[Lucia Barrios] I have tried tortillas
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that have surprised me.
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[Ana Silvia Monzón]
Eating a tortilla right out
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of the griddle
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is one of life's pleasures.
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It's part of what
mothers teach their girls.
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[Gaby Perdomo] There's a
rich culture and history
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around tortillas and corn.
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[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] The
tortilla is king in Guatemala.
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[Bárbara Arroyo]
It's part of who we are.
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[Doña Feliciana Yaqui]
That's how it's done.
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[Narrator] Travel
the world to rediscover
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our most fundamental food.
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And fall in love with
bread all over again.
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[♪ theme music plays].
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[Narrator]
Bienvenidos a Guatemala City.
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The biggest, busiest,
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most happening
capital in central America.
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Here, "Ladinos," with
European mixed heritage
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rub elbows with
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over 20 indigenous
groups of Maya ancestry.
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And every corner and
side street serves up
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a complex mix of
culture and flavor.
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Would you look at that!
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[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] There
is a cuisine that we eat in
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Guatemala City which is a
mix of the traditions were,
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00:02:02,455 --> 00:02:04,874
that were here already,
before the Spaniards
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00:02:04,958 --> 00:02:07,502
and the customs and
traditions that they brought.
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[Narrator] Nicknamed, "The
Land of the Eternal Spring,"
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this small nation the size
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of Tennessee has a whopping
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360 microclimates,
creating a rich array
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of produce-centered food.
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And at the center of
it all, the tortilla.
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The heart of
every Guatemalan meal,
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and maybe even
the country itself.
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In a restaurant high
above the city streets,
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one Guatemalan chef is on a
mission to give the tortilla and
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her country some
long overdue reverence.
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[Debora Fadul]
There's just so much that
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goes into making a tortilla.
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Each step of the
process is like a ceremony.
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And for people
here it's just, like,
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"Oh tortillas?
Yeah, that's easy."
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That's where I say,
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let's make it in a way
that will make people value it.
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My name is Debora Fadul,
but everyone calls me Debbie,
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so please go ahead
and do so as well.
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I am incredibly
honored to have you here
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in our restaurant today.
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[Narrator] Head chef
Debbie Fadul runs Diacá,
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in a city with an emerging
high end restaurant scene,
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this tiny spot is a stand-out.
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To get here, Debbie
had to chart her own path.
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[Debora Fadul] I went
to Camille, an incredible
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culinary school in Guatemala.
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It's based on French cuisine
and teaches French techniques.
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But when I graduated,
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I chose to stay in
Guatemala instead of
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leaving like everyone else.
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I didn't want to
leave Guatemala because
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it's my home,
the place I live in,
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the place where
my feet are planted.
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[Narrator] And to Guatemalans,
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nothing tastes more of
home than the tortilla.
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[Debora Fadul] Behind a tortilla
there are many things involved.
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There's culture,
geography, nature, history.
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You only note the true
importance of something
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when you understand how complex
it is to create it yourself.
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[Lucia Barrios] 10 years ago,
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you would never hear
of a trending restaurant
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serving tortillas.
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My name is Lucia Barrios.
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And, uh, Guatemala for me, I
think I have to say is my home.
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Through documenting gastronomy,
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I got to know it
in a very deep way.
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Debbie's restaurant is
having a huge impact because
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a lot of people are now paying
attention to what she's saying.
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It's impossible to talk
about Guatemalan gastronomy
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without talking
about the tortilla,
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because the tortilla
is basically what we
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eat every day, it's our bread.
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[Debora Fadul] And in my home it
was always tortilla over bread.
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That's something that any
Guatemalan will tell you,
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the memory of seeing
freshly made tortillas at home,
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grabbing one while
they're still making them,
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sprinkling salt
on it and eating it.
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I'm salivating
just thinking about it.
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[Narrator] Ah, the tortilla.
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The edible plate we
know and love that cradles
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your carne asada and
envelopes your enchiladas.
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It even has its
own day of the week.
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[Reporter] Today
is National Taco Day.
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[LeBron James]
It's Taco Tuesday!
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[Narrator] Tortillas
have been pop culture
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icons for decades.
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But if you think the ones
from your local drive thru are
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the real deal, think again.
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Guatemalan tortillas
are smaller, thicker,
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handmade with corn,
and have a rich,
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smoky flavor that takes
some serious training to make.
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[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] It
is a wonderful tradition, uh,
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that is simple, yet it takes
a skill, uh, to make tortillas.
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I am Amalia Moreno-Damgaard,
I am a, an award winning author,
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I am an entrepreneur,
I am a, in Guatemala City
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and it is such a
pleasure to be in my homeland.
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[Interviewer] It's
impossible to talk about
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the tortilla without
doing that, is that true?
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[Interviewer] Everybody
starts to do it, when I ask
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about it, the tortillas.
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[Lucia Barrios] Yeah,
because I feel like I just-- Yeah.
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You know, I grew up
like hearing this, you know.
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[clapping]
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[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] But
this is the right motion, right?
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And that is an art form.
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[Bárbara Arroyo] Not everybody
can make a good tortilla.
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I don't know how to make
a good tortilla, unfortunately.
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I wish I knew.
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00:07:02,713 --> 00:07:05,758
I've tried many times,
but I've failed all the time.
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[Bárbara Arroyo]
Fortunately, there's Conny.
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[rooster crowing]
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[Conny Hernandez]
Some people like the job.
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Others don't.
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If they don't like it,
they won't learn.
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I like making tortillas.
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I like what I do, and I
put all my love into it.
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[Conny Hernandez] Mm-hmm.
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[Conny Hernandez] I learned
tortilla-making from my mom.
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[Narrator] Six days a week,
Conny Hernandez crafts her
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country's most beloved food.
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And her daughter
Judith is by her side.
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[Judith Hernandez]
Well, she is my boss!
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00:08:02,899 --> 00:08:05,359
I just deliver the
tortillas and help make them.
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00:08:05,443 --> 00:08:10,990
She pays me my wage. That
makes her the tortillería boss.
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[Narrator] Tortillas are
flatbreads formed from masa,
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a dough made with
ground corn, water,
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and salt.
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Mix...
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[Conny Hernandez]
We add some water.
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[Narrator] Knead...
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[Conny Hernandez] We
knead the masa thoroughly.
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And we begin...
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making tortillas.
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[Narrator] And slap.
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[clapping]
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Finally throw it on
the comal, aka the griddle,
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and brown it to
crispy-on-the-outside,
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soft-on-the-inside perfection.
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[Conny Hernandez] The
more care you put into it,
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the more people
want your tortillas.
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00:09:04,502 --> 00:09:09,340
And it has to be a light color,
as it gets your appetite going.
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It gets people going, like,
"Let's go to Mrs. Conny's!"
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Hoping people don't go
elsewhere, but Mrs. Conny's.
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[Narrator] Tortillas are
a female-forward art form
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passed down through
grandmothers and mothers and
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for some, a decent
way to make a living.
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[Conny Hernandez] Since I
am widowed without a husband,
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it was hard providing
for children by myself, so
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my mom was like, "I
won't continue with
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the business, want to run it?"
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And I agreed.
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And I thank God for giving me
a dignified job. An honest job.
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It makes me proud to know I
can be useful in many ways.
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I figure I make
around 500 tortillas.
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[Judith Hernandez]
I make a lot less.
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I can only make around 300,
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considering I go
out on deliveries.
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I'm practically carrying 200,
or more than 200 tortillas.
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So it's very heavy.
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[Narrator] But don't you
go worrying about Judith,
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because those
tortillas sell fast.
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[clapping]
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[Bárbara Arroyo] We eat
tortillas three times a day;
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for breakfast, for
lunch and for dinner.
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00:10:33,424 --> 00:10:36,135
And that's why you see the
signs in many places that says,
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"Tortillas three times a day,
Tortillas los tres tiempos."
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00:10:40,431 --> 00:10:42,642
[Lucia Barrios] I don't
know any Guatemalan that
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doesn't eat tortilla.
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00:10:44,477 --> 00:10:48,564
You can just go to the market
and find a menu of tortillas
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with 100 types of
different options.
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From the richest of the rich
to the poorest of the poor
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absolutely everybody
eats and loves tortillas.
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00:10:59,950 --> 00:11:01,118
[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard]
If there is no tortilla,
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00:11:01,202 --> 00:11:02,411
there is no meal.
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00:11:02,495 --> 00:11:04,580
It is the bread
that everyone craves.
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00:11:04,664 --> 00:11:06,624
[Narrator] At
about five cents a pop,
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tortillas are the
ultimate street food but
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00:11:09,627 --> 00:11:12,588
they have a lot more to
offer than a cheap meal.
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00:11:13,506 --> 00:11:16,258
These hot little pockets
contain nothing less than
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the story of
Guatemala and its people.
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[♪ upbeat music plays]
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[Narrator] In the
heart of Guatemala City,
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00:11:28,354 --> 00:11:33,067
chef Debbie Fadul is connecting
to her ancestral roots through
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00:11:33,150 --> 00:11:34,610
her supernatural palate.
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00:11:37,655 --> 00:11:41,659
-It smells like burnt pineapple.
-Like pineapple liquor.
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00:11:41,742 --> 00:11:42,910
[Debora Fadul]
Caramelized pineapple.
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00:11:44,537 --> 00:11:46,664
It's funny, but
there are lots of times
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00:11:46,747 --> 00:11:48,749
when I'm doing something
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00:11:49,458 --> 00:11:52,294
and I'm transported
to grandma's kitchen and
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00:11:52,378 --> 00:11:55,297
the memory of
learning it from her.
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My grandmother was
a spectacular cook.
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00:12:00,386 --> 00:12:04,098
But the great part about her
was that she broke stereotypes.
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00:12:04,181 --> 00:12:06,684
Out in the street, you
would have never guessed
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00:12:06,767 --> 00:12:09,103
that such a dolled-up lady
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00:12:09,603 --> 00:12:12,106
could go into the
kitchen and break
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00:12:12,189 --> 00:12:14,442
a turkey's neck, de-feather it,
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00:12:14,525 --> 00:12:16,485
and just do
everything from scratch.
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00:12:17,695 --> 00:12:20,239
From a young age, I
had this curiosity for
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00:12:20,322 --> 00:12:22,992
textures and smells.
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00:12:23,075 --> 00:12:27,037
Tomatoes weren't just red
and tasted like tomatoes.
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00:12:27,121 --> 00:12:33,335
For me, it meant citric, floral,
contains such and such notes.
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00:12:33,419 --> 00:12:35,337
So basically, it all
became what we're doing
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00:12:35,421 --> 00:12:37,423
now at the restaurant.
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[Narrator] The name of
Debbie's restaurant, Diacá,
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a twist on the Spanish de aca,
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00:12:43,304 --> 00:12:45,014
means from here.
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00:12:45,639 --> 00:12:48,017
[Debora Fadul] I would
always get the same question:
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00:12:48,517 --> 00:12:50,352
"These incredible, big,
juicy tomatoes weren't
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00:12:50,436 --> 00:12:52,396
grown in Guatemala, right?"
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00:12:52,480 --> 00:12:54,774
And I was like,
"They indeed were."
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00:12:57,151 --> 00:13:01,322
"This is delicious! You didn't
study cooking here, right?"
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00:13:01,405 --> 00:13:05,034
So Guatemalans were actively
underestimating Guatemala.
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00:13:05,117 --> 00:13:07,077
I wondered why people
found it so hard to believe
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00:13:07,161 --> 00:13:09,288
that we can do beautiful things
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00:13:09,371 --> 00:13:11,832
starting from the inside out.
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00:13:12,625 --> 00:13:15,336
So my goal has always been that
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00:13:15,419 --> 00:13:20,674
of showing Guatemalans how great
our country is. How valuable.
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00:13:20,758 --> 00:13:23,052
And it keeps getting
stronger and stronger.
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00:13:25,221 --> 00:13:27,765
[Narrator] That quest to
restore Guatemala's pride
241
00:13:27,848 --> 00:13:31,477
through its food means going
back to her country's roots,
242
00:13:32,061 --> 00:13:34,522
a history that runs deep.
243
00:13:35,940 --> 00:13:39,401
Just below Guatemala City
lies one of the most powerful
244
00:13:39,485 --> 00:13:42,279
civilizations that
has ever existed.
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00:13:49,829 --> 00:13:51,747
[Bárbara Arroyo] I
am Bárbara Arroyo.
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00:13:51,831 --> 00:13:53,791
I am an archeologist working at
247
00:13:53,874 --> 00:13:57,086
the site of Kaminaljuyú
in Guatemala City.
248
00:13:58,337 --> 00:14:00,923
Kaminaljuyú was
settled originally
249
00:14:01,006 --> 00:14:03,133
around 400 before Christ.
250
00:14:04,093 --> 00:14:08,556
The acropolis is one of
the most important spaces of
251
00:14:08,639 --> 00:14:11,725
the site because it
had a water spring.
252
00:14:12,393 --> 00:14:14,854
Springs, water that was
coming out of the ground
253
00:14:14,937 --> 00:14:18,524
were magical places for the
ancient Maya, and still are.
254
00:14:19,733 --> 00:14:20,818
[Narrator] Picture this,
255
00:14:20,901 --> 00:14:24,864
Mesoamerica, about
3,000 years ago, give or take.
256
00:14:25,364 --> 00:14:26,574
This vast region that
257
00:14:26,657 --> 00:14:28,450
included modern day Mexico,
258
00:14:28,534 --> 00:14:30,327
Belize and Guatemala
259
00:14:30,411 --> 00:14:33,330
was ruled by the Maya.
260
00:14:33,414 --> 00:14:36,083
[Bárbara Arroyo] The Maya
civilization was a very advanced
261
00:14:36,166 --> 00:14:39,879
They had important
knowledge about astronomy,
262
00:14:39,962 --> 00:14:41,922
about agricultural cycles,
263
00:14:42,006 --> 00:14:43,424
about the calendar.
264
00:14:45,134 --> 00:14:47,344
[Lucia Barrios] Mayans
see it as an ecosystem
265
00:14:47,428 --> 00:14:50,055
where everything works together.
266
00:14:50,139 --> 00:14:53,726
So humans are
definitely not in the center.
267
00:14:53,809 --> 00:14:57,646
They are collaborating with
animals who are also spirits,
268
00:14:58,147 --> 00:15:02,318
also giving them
messages with climate,
269
00:15:02,818 --> 00:15:05,112
with the land, with the crops.
270
00:15:06,947 --> 00:15:09,158
[Narrator] In
this panoply of Gods,
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00:15:09,742 --> 00:15:12,077
one rose above the rest.
272
00:15:15,956 --> 00:15:19,501
Maya myth has it that after
botched attempts to form humans
273
00:15:19,585 --> 00:15:24,298
out of wood and mud, the
Gods found success with maize.
274
00:15:25,132 --> 00:15:28,010
When the Maya called
themselves people of the corn,
275
00:15:28,093 --> 00:15:30,095
they meant it literally.
276
00:15:31,180 --> 00:15:35,559
[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard]
Corn is the staple grain that
277
00:15:35,643 --> 00:15:39,438
has made civilizations
in this area flourish.
278
00:15:39,521 --> 00:15:42,441
[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard]
It is revered as a deity.
279
00:15:42,524 --> 00:15:44,568
[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard]
Very hard to, to dethrone.
280
00:15:45,527 --> 00:15:48,614
[Lucia Barrios] If you look
at the Mayan sacred book called,
281
00:15:48,697 --> 00:15:52,076
The Popol Vuh, it even talks
about four different corns,
282
00:15:52,159 --> 00:15:54,536
you know, to talk about
the four different races
283
00:15:54,620 --> 00:15:55,996
that humans have.
284
00:15:57,414 --> 00:15:59,792
[Bárbara Arroyo] Corn
is referred to as, "Ixim,"
285
00:15:59,875 --> 00:16:02,211
in many of the Maya languages.
286
00:16:02,294 --> 00:16:05,631
The family of the
Maya languages is huge,
287
00:16:05,714 --> 00:16:08,175
but there are commonalities,
and this is one of them.
288
00:16:08,258 --> 00:16:10,594
And that's very,
very important, because it
289
00:16:10,678 --> 00:16:13,597
talks about the relevance
of it for who the Maya are.
290
00:16:14,348 --> 00:16:16,016
[Narrator] And
where there is corn,
291
00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:17,935
there's the tortilla.
292
00:16:19,770 --> 00:16:24,358
[Bárbara Arroyo] We have objects
that date to 200 before Christ
293
00:16:24,441 --> 00:16:27,861
and represent what we
have interpreted as griddles.
294
00:16:28,529 --> 00:16:32,074
They have scratches, and
the scratches were made with
295
00:16:32,157 --> 00:16:35,786
the actual corn husk, to make
sure that the tortillas would
296
00:16:35,869 --> 00:16:37,830
not stick to the griddles.
297
00:16:38,747 --> 00:16:40,708
Corn is the essence of the Maya.
298
00:16:43,085 --> 00:16:45,087
[Lucia Barrios] There's a
way of looking at the world
299
00:16:45,170 --> 00:16:47,131
that is very Guatemalan.
300
00:16:48,132 --> 00:16:50,884
There's like this magic
to it that is everywhere and
301
00:16:50,968 --> 00:16:53,470
a magical way of
seeing the world.
302
00:16:54,263 --> 00:16:57,683
Plants are sacred, and
when they go into their land,
303
00:16:57,766 --> 00:17:00,811
before entering, they have
to ask permission to the land
304
00:17:00,894 --> 00:17:03,147
because they know that
this land has a spirit.
305
00:17:07,776 --> 00:17:11,864
[Doña Feliciana Yaqui] We could
say that we are in our place.
306
00:17:13,282 --> 00:17:15,701
Guatemala, yes, Guatemala.
307
00:17:17,286 --> 00:17:18,912
The land
308
00:17:19,580 --> 00:17:21,665
that feeds us,
309
00:17:21,749 --> 00:17:24,668
the earth, and God who
irrigates it with water
310
00:17:24,752 --> 00:17:26,628
so that everything goes well.
311
00:17:28,338 --> 00:17:35,345
I am Kaqchikel, we are on
Mother Earth, and we are many.
312
00:17:37,014 --> 00:17:39,266
[Narrator] Three hours
west of Guatemala City,
313
00:17:39,349 --> 00:17:40,768
nestled in the highlands,
314
00:17:40,851 --> 00:17:43,437
is the small
Maya village of Patzún.
315
00:17:46,857 --> 00:17:50,569
Here, Doña Feliciana Yaqui
is the matriarch keeping
316
00:17:50,652 --> 00:17:53,614
Guatemala's culinary
trade secrets alive.
317
00:18:00,537 --> 00:18:03,832
[Doña Feliciana Yaqui]
There are my daughters-in-law,
318
00:18:04,291 --> 00:18:06,460
my granddaughters,
319
00:18:06,543 --> 00:18:09,254
they helped me to work.
320
00:18:24,103 --> 00:18:26,522
Some made the tamales,
others the food,
321
00:18:26,605 --> 00:18:29,066
so we all help each other.
322
00:18:31,819 --> 00:18:35,614
We shelled the corn, we
did everything together.
323
00:18:36,240 --> 00:18:39,618
We help each other
to get the job done.
324
00:18:48,168 --> 00:18:51,046
When the fire is low,
they cook very well.
325
00:18:51,547 --> 00:18:54,341
When the fire is high,
they burn but do not cook well.
326
00:18:55,717 --> 00:18:56,760
Yes, they have to
learn to make nixtamal,
327
00:18:56,844 --> 00:18:57,845
they have to be taught,
328
00:18:57,928 --> 00:18:59,888
you have to teach them to learn
329
00:19:01,265 --> 00:19:04,685
to make tortillas,
yes, to make tortillas.
330
00:19:05,519 --> 00:19:08,147
[Narrator] It might look
as simple as boiling corn,
331
00:19:08,230 --> 00:19:10,190
but Doña Feliciana is practicing
332
00:19:10,274 --> 00:19:12,693
an ancient
Maya culinary technique
333
00:19:12,776 --> 00:19:14,611
called nixtamalization.
334
00:19:20,450 --> 00:19:22,786
[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard]
Nixtamalization is basically
335
00:19:22,870 --> 00:19:25,455
the cooking of mature corn,
336
00:19:25,539 --> 00:19:29,793
in water and calcium hydroxide,
337
00:19:30,252 --> 00:19:34,798
to make the corn tender so
it can be ground into masa.
338
00:19:37,467 --> 00:19:39,720
[Bárbara Arroyo] And at the
same time it becomes nutritious
339
00:19:39,803 --> 00:19:41,638
because you're adding calcium to
340
00:19:41,722 --> 00:19:45,100
the actual tortilla
producing process.
341
00:19:45,726 --> 00:19:47,477
[Narrator] The
aroma and tenderness of
342
00:19:47,561 --> 00:19:51,315
Guatemalan tortillas owe
it all to nixtamalization,
343
00:19:51,398 --> 00:19:54,276
a Maya marvel of
culinary engineering.
344
00:19:54,860 --> 00:19:57,988
But when the
Spanish invaded in 1523,
345
00:19:58,071 --> 00:20:00,115
millennia's worth
of agricultural and
346
00:20:00,199 --> 00:20:02,868
culinary know-how
were under threat.
347
00:20:02,951 --> 00:20:04,786
[Ana Silvia Monzón] My
name's Ana Silvia Monzón.
348
00:20:05,162 --> 00:20:10,167
I'm a Guatemalan sociologist
and feminist communicator.
349
00:20:21,011 --> 00:20:23,847
Three hundred years
of a colonial structure
350
00:20:23,931 --> 00:20:27,059
destroyed everything
that the indigenous peoples
351
00:20:27,142 --> 00:20:29,436
considered as their way of life.
352
00:20:30,729 --> 00:20:33,023
Indigenous peoples
were wiped out
353
00:20:33,106 --> 00:20:38,737
together with their culture,
language, beliefs, and rituals.
354
00:20:39,988 --> 00:20:41,657
[Narrator] Even the
corn tortilla didn't
355
00:20:41,740 --> 00:20:43,992
make it out of
colonization unscathed.
356
00:20:44,534 --> 00:20:47,412
That flour tortilla
you know and love?
357
00:20:47,496 --> 00:20:50,332
It's made with wheat,
first brought over by
358
00:20:50,415 --> 00:20:52,125
the Spanish conquistadores,
359
00:20:52,209 --> 00:20:54,544
who turned their
noses down on corn.
360
00:20:54,628 --> 00:20:58,215
The impact of that
attitude carries on to this day.
361
00:20:58,966 --> 00:21:01,760
[Lucia Barrios] Growing in
a country that was a colony,
362
00:21:01,843 --> 00:21:04,972
one of the things that
happens to us growing up is
363
00:21:05,055 --> 00:21:08,892
that we admire a lot of
developed countries because
364
00:21:08,976 --> 00:21:11,895
that's where we see that
the power is coming from.
365
00:21:12,729 --> 00:21:14,189
I ate tortillas
and I enjoyed them,
366
00:21:14,273 --> 00:21:17,025
but we didn't really
appreciate it because even if
367
00:21:17,109 --> 00:21:19,736
we had it every day in
our house, it was something
368
00:21:19,820 --> 00:21:23,115
that was always considered
less, you know, because it
369
00:21:23,198 --> 00:21:26,702
was something that people
with lesser resources had.
370
00:21:28,453 --> 00:21:30,664
[Narrator] Under
wheat-loving colonialism,
371
00:21:30,747 --> 00:21:34,626
the corn tortilla stayed
on the menu, cheap, easy,
372
00:21:34,710 --> 00:21:36,128
and eaten everywhere.
373
00:21:36,920 --> 00:21:39,840
But its history and
cultural value diminished.
374
00:21:41,133 --> 00:21:43,552
[Lucia Barrios] It's a
decolonization process that
375
00:21:43,635 --> 00:21:46,388
I think we're all
going through as a society.
376
00:21:46,471 --> 00:21:49,266
And gastronomy is
a fundamental, uh,
377
00:21:49,349 --> 00:21:50,434
pillar for that.
378
00:21:51,893 --> 00:21:53,854
[Narrator] Resurrecting
Guatemala's past to help
379
00:21:53,937 --> 00:21:55,480
secure its future?
380
00:21:55,564 --> 00:21:57,524
That's a lot to
put on a tortilla's
381
00:21:57,607 --> 00:21:59,067
round little shoulders.
382
00:21:59,568 --> 00:22:01,278
But in one colonial city,
383
00:22:01,361 --> 00:22:05,490
a tortilla resistance
is getting fired up.
384
00:22:09,995 --> 00:22:13,623
[♪ upbeat music plays]
385
00:22:13,707 --> 00:22:17,753
[Narrator] An hour outside of
Guatemala's capital is Antigua.
386
00:22:19,254 --> 00:22:22,549
For Guatemalans looking
to escape the big city,
387
00:22:22,632 --> 00:22:23,842
it's a peaceful getaway,
388
00:22:25,052 --> 00:22:28,263
except for the occasional
volcanic eruption, that is.
389
00:22:29,431 --> 00:22:32,100
[explosion]
390
00:22:33,560 --> 00:22:37,814
Antigua is ringed by volcanoes,
the tallest has a peak known by
391
00:22:37,898 --> 00:22:40,400
locals as, The Three Sisters.
392
00:22:42,903 --> 00:22:46,490
The minerals released by
these fiery giants have
393
00:22:46,573 --> 00:22:47,657
turned the land into
394
00:22:47,741 --> 00:22:50,869
some of the richest
farming soil in the world.
395
00:22:52,621 --> 00:22:53,914
[Gaby Perdomo] These
three volcanoes are always
396
00:22:53,997 --> 00:22:55,248
putting up a show for us.
397
00:22:56,291 --> 00:22:59,086
People who visit us for the
first time think it's incredible
398
00:22:59,169 --> 00:23:02,130
that we live so close
to an active volcano.
399
00:23:04,091 --> 00:23:06,718
[Narrator] Here, in the
land of earth and fire,
400
00:23:07,511 --> 00:23:10,847
is where Gaby Perdomo
found a new start.
401
00:23:13,266 --> 00:23:14,810
[Gaby Perdomo] I am
an industrial engineer.
402
00:23:15,602 --> 00:23:17,396
I lived abroad for eight years,
403
00:23:17,896 --> 00:23:22,275
and on my return I saw
my country with new eyes.
404
00:23:23,860 --> 00:23:25,570
You realize that
people in Guatemala
405
00:23:25,654 --> 00:23:27,280
still make tortillas by hand,
406
00:23:28,073 --> 00:23:30,283
that there's a huge
range of native corn species,
407
00:23:30,700 --> 00:23:35,831
and that there's a rich history
around tortillas and corn.
408
00:23:37,791 --> 00:23:41,503
That's how this adventure
of opening El Comalote began.
409
00:23:42,337 --> 00:23:45,382
[Narrator] El Comalote
isn't just another tortillería.
410
00:23:46,133 --> 00:23:49,553
It's the headquarters
for a culinary renaissance.
411
00:23:50,137 --> 00:23:51,555
Its secret weapon?
412
00:23:52,264 --> 00:23:55,892
An all-female team of
tortilla superheroes.
413
00:24:06,278 --> 00:24:08,405
[Gaby Perdomo] We're
like busy bees every day,
414
00:24:08,488 --> 00:24:10,782
because there's
always something new.
415
00:24:11,283 --> 00:24:15,787
We can all act on every area
of the business when needed.
416
00:24:18,415 --> 00:24:22,127
Zayda is our
tortillería's production chief.
417
00:24:23,128 --> 00:24:27,382
She likes doing things right and
inspiring others to do right.
418
00:24:28,675 --> 00:24:30,302
[Zayda Marleny Pérez López]
I can't imagine a world
419
00:24:30,385 --> 00:24:32,053
without tortillas.
420
00:24:32,721 --> 00:24:34,890
We must feel proud of
knowing how to make them.
421
00:24:38,477 --> 00:24:43,023
Here at Comalote, we
make five types of tortillas.
422
00:24:43,106 --> 00:24:45,317
We have our white tortilla,
423
00:24:45,400 --> 00:24:47,027
the yellow tortilla,
424
00:24:47,110 --> 00:24:48,570
the black tortilla.
425
00:24:49,321 --> 00:24:52,157
We also have red corn tortillas.
426
00:24:52,782 --> 00:24:56,077
One is made with chili guaques,
and the other with cilantro.
427
00:24:57,621 --> 00:25:02,918
Here, we make around
1,000 tortillas a day.
428
00:25:04,419 --> 00:25:05,670
All of them are handmade.
429
00:25:12,427 --> 00:25:15,388
[Gaby Perdomo] I remember
when I first met Zayda.
430
00:25:15,972 --> 00:25:19,017
She seemed a little reserved and
431
00:25:19,100 --> 00:25:22,437
worried about
where this was going.
432
00:25:22,521 --> 00:25:26,149
And today you can see
her teaching her colleagues.
433
00:25:26,816 --> 00:25:28,985
She demands by
setting an example.
434
00:25:30,403 --> 00:25:33,156
[Zayda Marleny Pérez López]
The truth is
435
00:25:33,240 --> 00:25:35,575
I'm very curious sometimes.
436
00:25:35,659 --> 00:25:36,952
I like to learn,
437
00:25:37,035 --> 00:25:41,748
but I work, I like to
work and I keep on working.
438
00:25:43,208 --> 00:25:46,044
[Narrator] But even skilled
artisans like Zayda have seen
439
00:25:46,127 --> 00:25:48,964
the fruits of their
labor go overlooked.
440
00:25:51,007 --> 00:25:53,593
[Lucia Barrios] I think that
tortillas is something that has
441
00:25:53,677 --> 00:25:56,846
been specifically a women's job.
442
00:25:56,930 --> 00:26:02,185
Women in general have, uh, have
this closeness with cooking, uh,
443
00:26:02,269 --> 00:26:04,020
in Guatemala because
444
00:26:04,104 --> 00:26:06,147
they have been doing
it for their families.
445
00:26:06,731 --> 00:26:10,068
[Bárbara Arroyo] Um, I, I
don't think I have ever seen
446
00:26:10,151 --> 00:26:14,239
in my whole life a man
make tortillas in Guatemala.
447
00:26:17,367 --> 00:26:20,161
[Ana Silvia Monzón]
Tortillerías are not valued
448
00:26:20,245 --> 00:26:22,914
because it is a
job done by women.
449
00:26:23,957 --> 00:26:26,543
[Narrator] In Guatemala, the
women who make tortillas are
450
00:26:26,626 --> 00:26:28,962
paid rock bottom wages.
451
00:26:29,045 --> 00:26:32,716
Some earn as little
as $65 American a month,
452
00:26:32,799 --> 00:26:35,218
despite working
around the clock.
453
00:26:36,386 --> 00:26:38,722
[Gaby Perdomo] The
history of tortillerías
454
00:26:38,805 --> 00:26:41,850
has a dark side to it,
455
00:26:43,351 --> 00:26:46,730
because the "three
times a day" concept
456
00:26:46,855 --> 00:26:51,192
has resulted in a
form of slave labor.
457
00:26:52,485 --> 00:26:57,407
They have to satisfy a market
that demands the cheapest prices
458
00:26:57,490 --> 00:27:00,160
for a product seen as a
daily-consumption commodity.
459
00:27:01,494 --> 00:27:04,331
I think that's where
my awakening comes from.
460
00:27:05,081 --> 00:27:09,878
Understanding that a
tortilla made from native corn,
461
00:27:09,961 --> 00:27:11,880
where the job of
a tortilla maker is
462
00:27:11,963 --> 00:27:14,591
dignified through fair pay,
463
00:27:14,674 --> 00:27:19,721
can change our country for sure,
despite how small a gesture.
464
00:27:22,098 --> 00:27:25,685
[Narrator] But if Gaby's going
to revolutionize her country,
465
00:27:26,269 --> 00:27:28,521
she can't do it alone.
466
00:27:32,359 --> 00:27:38,031
[♪ upbeat music plays]
467
00:27:38,114 --> 00:27:40,575
[Narrator] Chef Debbie Fadul
is determined to preserve
468
00:27:40,659 --> 00:27:42,202
her culture through food,
469
00:27:44,037 --> 00:27:49,209
and one of her closest
allies is Gaby Perdomo.
470
00:27:51,127 --> 00:27:52,128
[Debora Fadul]
[in Spanish] Hello! Hello!
471
00:27:52,212 --> 00:27:53,380
[Gaby Perdomo] Oh, hi!
472
00:27:54,047 --> 00:27:56,591
-So nice to see you,
you look so pretty! -Thank you!
473
00:27:57,342 --> 00:27:59,219
[Debora Fadul] I
should have dressed up nicer.
474
00:28:01,137 --> 00:28:02,555
It's so nice to see you.
475
00:28:04,265 --> 00:28:05,642
Oh my God.
476
00:28:05,725 --> 00:28:06,893
With a little salt...
477
00:28:07,560 --> 00:28:13,024
When I began looking for places
where I could find local corn
478
00:28:13,525 --> 00:28:15,610
I heard about El Comalote.
479
00:28:16,528 --> 00:28:20,824
And I really like working with
people who have the same drive
480
00:28:20,907 --> 00:28:27,455
or are on the same path of
giving value to local products
481
00:28:27,539 --> 00:28:29,958
and bringing
producers closer to us.
482
00:28:31,543 --> 00:28:33,545
[Gaby Perdomo] And
by chance we realized
483
00:28:33,628 --> 00:28:35,380
we were fighting
for the same cause.
484
00:28:35,964 --> 00:28:39,259
To me, the work she
does is just incredible.
485
00:28:39,342 --> 00:28:40,427
-Are you ready?
-Ready.
486
00:28:40,510 --> 00:28:41,511
-We're using my car?
-Sure.
487
00:28:42,178 --> 00:28:43,471
[Deborah Fadul]
[in Spanish] All right.
488
00:28:43,555 --> 00:28:45,724
[Debora Fadul] Bye, girls!
[Gaby Perdomo] Bye, girls!
489
00:28:55,358 --> 00:28:57,527
[Narrator] Debbie and Gaby
are on a hunt for what might be
490
00:28:57,610 --> 00:29:01,823
their country's greatest
culinary treasure, corn.
491
00:29:04,951 --> 00:29:06,953
[Gaby Perdomo] Hello.
492
00:29:08,663 --> 00:29:10,081
[All] [in Spanish] Hello!
493
00:29:10,165 --> 00:29:12,041
-How are you?
-Great, and you?
494
00:29:12,125 --> 00:29:13,835
[Narrator] And one
of their top sources is
495
00:29:13,918 --> 00:29:16,880
local farmer
Doña Matea Ojer González.
496
00:29:16,963 --> 00:29:18,339
[Debora Fadul] It's
so nice to see you.
497
00:29:18,423 --> 00:29:20,759
-How are you?
-Great, thank you.
498
00:29:20,842 --> 00:29:22,719
[Debora Fadul]
Thank you, excuse me.
499
00:29:23,803 --> 00:29:25,472
[Gaby Perdomo] How's
your harvest doing?
500
00:29:25,555 --> 00:29:27,515
[Doña Matea Ojer González]
Thank God, we had
501
00:29:27,599 --> 00:29:30,435
good quality this year.
502
00:29:30,518 --> 00:29:34,022
We were able to
have a good harvest.
503
00:29:34,105 --> 00:29:35,690
That's a first, actually.
504
00:29:35,774 --> 00:29:36,941
-[in Spanish] Wow!
-[in Spanish] Yeah, this year.
505
00:29:37,025 --> 00:29:39,194
[Debora Fadul] So you
go up to producers like
506
00:29:39,277 --> 00:29:40,737
Doña Matea, for instance,
507
00:29:41,321 --> 00:29:45,033
they have such a deep
connection to their corn.
508
00:29:45,116 --> 00:29:48,995
A crop that isn't
easy to grow and produce.
509
00:29:49,829 --> 00:29:52,749
[Doña Matea Ojer González]
What we have here is what
510
00:29:52,832 --> 00:29:55,043
we are eating, consuming
511
00:29:55,126 --> 00:29:56,628
these past months.
512
00:29:56,711 --> 00:29:59,255
That is what we have here.
513
00:29:59,339 --> 00:30:02,926
-I'd love to see that.
-Please, come in.
514
00:30:03,009 --> 00:30:05,428
[Debora Fadul] This was
the best year, Doña Matea.
515
00:30:07,388 --> 00:30:10,308
[Narrator] Doña Matea is
mostly growing this corn for
516
00:30:10,391 --> 00:30:13,353
her family, but
she's sitting on gold.
517
00:30:13,436 --> 00:30:15,188
Small scale farms
like this are how
518
00:30:15,271 --> 00:30:17,899
ancient Guatemalan
corn has survived.
519
00:30:19,818 --> 00:30:21,402
[Debora Fadul] They look
really nice, Doña Matea.
520
00:30:21,486 --> 00:30:22,904
[Doña Matea Ojer González]
Thank you.
521
00:30:23,446 --> 00:30:25,448
[Gaby Perdomo]
This one looks like...
522
00:30:25,532 --> 00:30:26,616
[Debora Fadul] Look at that one.
523
00:30:26,699 --> 00:30:28,326
They look like jewelry.
524
00:30:28,409 --> 00:30:31,704
Well, they are.
They are a luxury.
525
00:30:31,788 --> 00:30:33,706
Even more valuable.
526
00:30:35,375 --> 00:30:39,712
Producers have it very hard.
527
00:30:39,796 --> 00:30:42,048
And more so in
countries like Guatemala
528
00:30:42,131 --> 00:30:45,260
where people would rather look
to the outside than locally.
529
00:30:45,343 --> 00:30:49,931
When I realized that, I
was like, this has to change.
530
00:30:50,014 --> 00:30:55,436
I want to be part of a
solution, not of a problem.
531
00:30:55,520 --> 00:30:59,440
Which meant meeting and reaching
out directly to producers,
532
00:30:59,524 --> 00:31:01,192
because they are
the real experts.
533
00:31:02,235 --> 00:31:04,737
[Narrator] You'd think an
invaluable heritage wouldn't
534
00:31:04,821 --> 00:31:07,198
need protecting,
but there are forces at
535
00:31:07,282 --> 00:31:10,451
play threatening
Guatemala's culinary legacy.
536
00:31:14,080 --> 00:31:16,124
In the last few decades,
537
00:31:16,207 --> 00:31:20,420
hybrid corn, a mix of local and
foreign grains that's hardy and
538
00:31:20,503 --> 00:31:24,507
easier to grow, has
flooded the Guatemalan market,
539
00:31:26,092 --> 00:31:28,803
threatening the demand
for heritage varieties.
540
00:31:33,600 --> 00:31:36,436
[Gaby Perdomo] We could say that
over 90% of all tortillerías
541
00:31:36,519 --> 00:31:40,481
use hybrid corn or corn flour.
542
00:31:41,608 --> 00:31:46,279
Since no markets are
looking for native corn,
543
00:31:46,362 --> 00:31:48,990
new generations
grow uninterested
544
00:31:49,073 --> 00:31:52,869
in cultivating and
protecting native corn species.
545
00:31:53,953 --> 00:31:57,415
As a Guatemalan, I
am very concerned about
546
00:31:58,124 --> 00:32:00,501
protecting these seeds,
547
00:32:00,585 --> 00:32:03,630
which aren't only
our daily sustenance
548
00:32:03,713 --> 00:32:08,009
but part of the roots of
our history and culture.
549
00:32:08,551 --> 00:32:11,095
[Debora Fadul] We
should take some of these
550
00:32:11,179 --> 00:32:14,140
to make tortillas out of...
551
00:32:14,223 --> 00:32:15,850
[Gaby Perdomo] Pinto corn.
552
00:32:16,517 --> 00:32:17,936
[Doña Matea Ojer González] Yes.
553
00:32:20,188 --> 00:32:21,606
[Debora Fadul]
Thank you, Doña Matea!
554
00:32:22,649 --> 00:32:24,400
[Narrator]
Precious cargo in tow,
555
00:32:24,484 --> 00:32:26,527
Debbie heads back
to Guatemala City
556
00:32:26,611 --> 00:32:28,613
to perform culinary magic.
557
00:32:29,989 --> 00:32:33,618
In preparation for a dinner
that will put the tortilla
558
00:32:33,701 --> 00:32:35,244
at the center of the table.
559
00:32:40,208 --> 00:32:42,168
[Narrator] Back at
her restaurant Diacá,
560
00:32:42,251 --> 00:32:45,505
the stage is set for
chef Debbie Fadul to unleash
561
00:32:45,588 --> 00:32:49,676
a symphony of flavors and
textures with Doña Matea's corn.
562
00:32:50,426 --> 00:32:51,970
If you ever wanted
a front row seat to
563
00:32:52,053 --> 00:32:55,807
a chef's creative process,
today is your lucky day.
564
00:32:57,058 --> 00:32:59,352
[Debora Fadul] Doña Matea's corn
565
00:32:59,435 --> 00:33:05,775
had macuy, black salt,
plum, and blackberry notes.
566
00:33:06,651 --> 00:33:09,362
When you begin examining
ingredients like this,
567
00:33:09,445 --> 00:33:10,530
everything else disappears.
568
00:33:12,198 --> 00:33:14,200
And they begin talking to you.
569
00:33:14,283 --> 00:33:17,537
"Hi! This is what I taste like!
This is my flavor!"
570
00:33:17,620 --> 00:33:19,330
Based on that,
you'll be able to create.
571
00:33:19,998 --> 00:33:21,249
Nope, that's not the one.
572
00:33:21,332 --> 00:33:22,625
This one could be it.
573
00:33:22,709 --> 00:33:25,753
You feel it in your
tongue, in your sense.
574
00:33:26,254 --> 00:33:29,382
And it sets off an
explosion of flavors in my head.
575
00:33:31,634 --> 00:33:36,014
Some corn species work better
in tamales, flour, or salpor.
576
00:33:36,097 --> 00:33:40,560
Floury corn has its uses,
flint corn is for popcorn.
577
00:33:41,602 --> 00:33:43,896
We take white corn,
578
00:33:45,231 --> 00:33:46,983
some yellow heirloom corn.
579
00:33:47,859 --> 00:33:50,445
We take some black corn.
580
00:33:51,696 --> 00:33:53,865
We take some red corn.
581
00:33:54,532 --> 00:33:58,119
Red corn is super creamy.
582
00:33:58,202 --> 00:34:01,122
It's thick,
creamy, milky, buttery.
583
00:34:09,172 --> 00:34:12,008
[Producer] Do you go to another
world while you're doing that?
584
00:34:13,926 --> 00:34:16,596
[Debora Fadul] We
have an inside joke
585
00:34:18,222 --> 00:34:20,516
about me going
back to my planet.
586
00:34:21,059 --> 00:34:22,310
[Narrator] It's cool, Debbie,
587
00:34:22,393 --> 00:34:25,188
we get it, we're
crazy about corn too.
588
00:34:26,272 --> 00:34:28,191
While Debbie puts
the finishing touches on
589
00:34:28,274 --> 00:34:29,692
tonight's menu,
590
00:34:31,194 --> 00:34:32,528
in Antigua,
591
00:34:34,030 --> 00:34:37,283
a major cultural
moment is in the works.
592
00:34:40,161 --> 00:34:42,622
Semana Santa, or Holy Week.
593
00:34:43,122 --> 00:34:46,209
A time when old and new
traditions intermingle to
594
00:34:46,292 --> 00:34:48,961
create a mind-blowing spectacle.
595
00:34:50,088 --> 00:34:52,131
Sure, it's a time
of deep reflection and
596
00:34:52,215 --> 00:34:54,258
prayer in celebration of Easter,
597
00:34:55,468 --> 00:34:59,013
but it's also a
cross-cultural extravaganza.
598
00:35:08,523 --> 00:35:10,942
[Gaby Perdomo] It's
like Antigua completely
599
00:35:11,025 --> 00:35:13,027
transforms during Holy Week.
600
00:35:14,028 --> 00:35:15,780
It dresses in colors,
601
00:35:15,863 --> 00:35:20,952
and the sounds are
enough to make you cry.
602
00:35:21,828 --> 00:35:26,332
It's an occasion where many
different traditions converge.
603
00:35:27,291 --> 00:35:29,919
[Lucia Barrios] You will always
find where the Mayan culture
604
00:35:30,002 --> 00:35:34,340
survived in the whole process
of colonization in Antigua.
605
00:35:34,423 --> 00:35:36,801
You will see it in food, you
will see it in architecture,
606
00:35:36,884 --> 00:35:38,970
you will see it
in the processions.
607
00:35:41,347 --> 00:35:43,599
[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard]
Catholicism was imposed on
608
00:35:43,683 --> 00:35:46,811
the indigenous people,
and today they survive,
609
00:35:46,894 --> 00:35:48,354
side by side.
610
00:35:53,609 --> 00:35:58,322
[Narrator] And one sacred custom
is truly a feast for the eyes.
611
00:36:07,540 --> 00:36:10,585
Alfombras, elaborate
carpets made of plants and
612
00:36:10,668 --> 00:36:14,005
wood are laid out for
the procession to walk on,
613
00:36:14,088 --> 00:36:16,966
so that the holy icons
never touch the ground.
614
00:36:18,384 --> 00:36:22,180
Making an Alfombra takes a
full day of painstaking work,
615
00:36:22,263 --> 00:36:26,100
and in Antigua,
its go big or go home.
616
00:36:28,102 --> 00:36:31,022
Even if in a few mere
moments these works of art
617
00:36:31,105 --> 00:36:33,065
will be completely destroyed.
618
00:36:36,027 --> 00:36:37,862
[Gaby Perdomo]
Alfombras have the same
619
00:36:37,945 --> 00:36:40,656
ephemeral essence as tortillas.
620
00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:45,453
I feel a tortilla
is like a handicraft
621
00:36:48,247 --> 00:36:52,001
that after a long time
of being shaped by hand
622
00:36:52,084 --> 00:36:55,338
is ultimately grabbed and eaten.
623
00:36:56,130 --> 00:36:57,590
And then it's over.
624
00:37:01,510 --> 00:37:04,513
Tortillas are a gift
625
00:37:04,597 --> 00:37:08,434
that our Maya ancestors
bestowed upon this region.
626
00:37:11,604 --> 00:37:15,691
It's as if tortillas
were our identity
627
00:37:15,775 --> 00:37:18,527
or marked the roots from
where we all sprang from.
628
00:37:19,487 --> 00:37:23,032
If we lose tortillas, we
end up losing ourselves.
629
00:37:25,493 --> 00:37:27,662
[Narrator]
Preserving corn, and tortillas,
630
00:37:27,745 --> 00:37:31,249
has a ripple effect
that goes far beyond food,
631
00:37:31,332 --> 00:37:33,042
it's about
sustaining culture and
632
00:37:33,125 --> 00:37:35,294
communities for
generations to come.
633
00:37:36,170 --> 00:37:38,464
[Civilian] Lord,
this day, Tzaqol B'itol,
634
00:37:38,547 --> 00:37:41,342
we thank you for
a beautiful day.
635
00:37:41,926 --> 00:37:44,428
We that plow the holy land,
636
00:37:44,512 --> 00:37:47,473
we ask Thee to bless
637
00:37:47,556 --> 00:37:49,392
our maize, our corn.
638
00:37:50,101 --> 00:37:51,352
[Narrator] Up in the highlands,
639
00:37:51,435 --> 00:37:54,855
Doña Feliciana and her family
are still in conversation with
640
00:37:54,939 --> 00:37:59,026
corn and the land it
comes from a reciprocal bond
641
00:37:59,110 --> 00:38:02,363
that's survived every
challenge thrown at it.
642
00:38:02,446 --> 00:38:04,115
[Doña Feliciana Yaqui]
We have to ask God,
643
00:38:04,198 --> 00:38:06,033
He gives us everything.
644
00:38:06,117 --> 00:38:08,619
He gives us the
water to grow the corn.
645
00:38:09,203 --> 00:38:12,623
If the corn doesn't grow,
we won't have tortillas.
646
00:38:14,792 --> 00:38:16,836
[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] Even
if other civilizations may have
647
00:38:16,919 --> 00:38:19,714
wanted to throw out
corn it didn't work,
648
00:38:19,797 --> 00:38:23,301
because the indigenous
population in Guatemala
649
00:38:23,384 --> 00:38:25,886
is very, very
large and very strong.
650
00:38:25,970 --> 00:38:28,973
And it is their
means of, of sustenance.
651
00:38:30,016 --> 00:38:31,726
[Doña Feliciana Yaqui]
Yes, well, when He gives us
652
00:38:31,809 --> 00:38:32,977
the corn, we rejoice.
653
00:38:33,436 --> 00:38:37,523
That's it, we rejoice, we jump.
654
00:38:38,232 --> 00:38:40,151
[Narrator] Who would have
thought growing corn could be
655
00:38:40,234 --> 00:38:43,863
a kind of resistance, the
will to keep culture alive
656
00:38:43,946 --> 00:38:46,949
when outside
powers had other plans.
657
00:38:47,533 --> 00:38:49,452
[Ana Silvia Monzón]
I think this is also
658
00:38:49,535 --> 00:38:51,412
like a cultural resistance,
659
00:38:51,912 --> 00:38:55,624
as part of this broader
concept of food sovereignty.
660
00:38:55,708 --> 00:39:00,254
It is not only a food,
661
00:39:00,338 --> 00:39:01,964
but also a tradition,
662
00:39:02,715 --> 00:39:05,051
which will hopefully
be kept for long.
663
00:39:06,010 --> 00:39:08,054
[Narrator] The
resistance is going strong.
664
00:39:08,137 --> 00:39:11,515
And back in the capital city,
a celebration of the tortilla
665
00:39:11,599 --> 00:39:13,976
is about to be unveiled.
666
00:39:16,270 --> 00:39:19,023
[♪ whimsical music plays]
667
00:39:19,106 --> 00:39:21,734
[Narrator] Tonight's
dinner service at Diacá is
668
00:39:21,817 --> 00:39:24,695
invitation only, Debbie's
welcomed a small group of
669
00:39:24,779 --> 00:39:29,408
local producers and chefs to
dine alongside loyal customers.
670
00:39:29,950 --> 00:39:31,952
She's serving up
an education into
671
00:39:32,036 --> 00:39:34,497
where the country's
food comes from.
672
00:39:35,831 --> 00:39:37,124
[Debora Fadul]
Everything we'll be doing today
673
00:39:37,208 --> 00:39:42,046
is focused on how we can
use corn in a different way.
674
00:39:42,129 --> 00:39:45,132
For example, our
cheese board is stocked
675
00:39:45,216 --> 00:39:49,053
with 100% local products,
676
00:39:49,136 --> 00:39:50,805
but what if we
instead served tortillas
677
00:39:50,888 --> 00:39:52,640
alongside
cheese boards?
678
00:39:52,723 --> 00:39:53,933
People go crazy for it.
679
00:39:56,435 --> 00:39:58,771
You realize how
all these details
680
00:39:59,522 --> 00:40:01,899
only serve to
highlight tortillas.
681
00:40:05,194 --> 00:40:07,863
Our menu is sorted by farmer.
682
00:40:07,947 --> 00:40:09,407
There's no real
menu, so to speak.
683
00:40:10,533 --> 00:40:15,329
The menu only shows the
ingredients and their producers.
684
00:40:16,080 --> 00:40:17,081
Period.
685
00:40:21,168 --> 00:40:23,712
Okay, first of all, I
am incredibly grateful
686
00:40:23,796 --> 00:40:26,257
that you were able to come.
687
00:40:26,340 --> 00:40:28,968
It's so exciting having all of
688
00:40:29,051 --> 00:40:31,846
you incredible
producers and chefs together.
689
00:40:32,430 --> 00:40:38,269
Celebrating producers just
like we do in our own kitchens.
690
00:40:38,352 --> 00:40:41,689
To me, it's super important.
691
00:40:41,772 --> 00:40:45,734
I want this to be an inspiration
for you to push even higher
692
00:40:45,818 --> 00:40:48,195
and to continue
doing what you do.
693
00:40:48,279 --> 00:40:51,157
If we cooks can be a
way to raise awareness,
694
00:40:51,240 --> 00:40:54,743
I'll never tire of doing it.
695
00:40:54,827 --> 00:40:56,745
I'm incredibly grateful,
and I hope you enjoy it.
696
00:40:56,829 --> 00:40:58,622
[Debora Fadul]
[in Spanish] Thank you!
697
00:41:02,793 --> 00:41:05,629
[speaking in Spanish]
698
00:41:05,713 --> 00:41:12,303
[speaking in Spanish]
699
00:41:13,095 --> 00:41:16,265
[Debora Fadul] We joke
around with the chefs, like,
700
00:41:16,348 --> 00:41:20,019
"That customer left this place
a completely different person."
701
00:41:20,686 --> 00:41:24,982
You begin noting this
slight shift in perspective
702
00:41:25,065 --> 00:41:29,820
and how people begin to learn
what eating "locally" means.
703
00:41:32,239 --> 00:41:36,702
Ultimately what we want is for
other people to also do this.
704
00:41:37,286 --> 00:41:42,249
It's about giving a spot to
those who rightly deserve it.
705
00:41:43,751 --> 00:41:45,669
[Narrator] In kitchens
across the country,
706
00:41:45,753 --> 00:41:49,590
the women who make tortillas
are starting to get their due.
707
00:41:51,217 --> 00:41:54,011
In a nation as
complex as Guatemala,
708
00:41:54,094 --> 00:41:56,138
there are no easy
solutions to excavating
709
00:41:56,222 --> 00:41:59,058
the past and
preserving traditions.
710
00:42:00,226 --> 00:42:03,521
But honoring the skill that
goes into the small but mighty
711
00:42:03,604 --> 00:42:05,564
tortilla is a start.
712
00:42:06,899 --> 00:42:09,610
[Debora Fadul] Ours is
a history of pure strength.
713
00:42:12,488 --> 00:42:17,201
Our contribution, and my
own personal contribution here,
714
00:42:17,868 --> 00:42:20,204
is to understand and
appreciate this strength.
715
00:42:20,287 --> 00:42:24,250
Being part of this strength
without selfishly seizing it,
716
00:42:24,333 --> 00:42:25,459
as it belongs to everyone.
717
00:42:26,877 --> 00:42:29,505
I start tearing up
just talking about it!
718
00:42:31,173 --> 00:42:33,133
It's just beautiful.
719
00:42:33,842 --> 00:42:35,719
[Conny Hernandez]
Guatemala is a very special
720
00:42:35,803 --> 00:42:37,638
and wonderful place.
721
00:42:37,721 --> 00:42:39,390
It has given me so much.
722
00:42:40,182 --> 00:42:42,142
[Lucia Barrios] I really
do believe that this country
723
00:42:42,226 --> 00:42:43,894
has a lot of magic.
724
00:42:43,978 --> 00:42:47,064
And for me, food is
a central place
725
00:42:47,147 --> 00:42:48,732
where you can discover that.
726
00:42:50,734 --> 00:42:52,027
[Bárbara Arroyo] There
are many lessons we can
727
00:42:52,111 --> 00:42:53,445
learn from the past.
728
00:42:54,238 --> 00:42:58,284
All the various parts
of our life are connected,
729
00:42:58,951 --> 00:43:02,037
nature is so important,
especially for the Maya.
730
00:43:03,872 --> 00:43:07,793
Water, the soil.
731
00:43:08,502 --> 00:43:10,337
Every object has life.
732
00:43:13,048 --> 00:43:15,092
[Doña Feliciana Yaqui]
Tortillas give life.
733
00:43:15,175 --> 00:43:16,927
If we don't eat,
there is no life.
734
00:43:17,928 --> 00:43:22,057
[Gaby Perdomo] Tortillas
can help us change the country.
735
00:43:23,142 --> 00:43:24,560
[Producer] And
they're delicious?
736
00:43:24,643 --> 00:43:25,644
[laughs]
737
00:43:25,728 --> 00:43:26,979
[Gaby Perdomo] That, too!
738
00:43:27,771 --> 00:43:30,149
[Civilian] Bon appétit!
739
00:43:30,232 --> 00:43:32,484
[Amalia Moreno-Damgaard]
The tortilla in my kitchen
740
00:43:32,985 --> 00:43:35,321
is treated with a
high level of respect.
741
00:43:35,863 --> 00:43:39,450
People need to know how
wonderful the country is.
742
00:43:39,533 --> 00:43:41,201
How wonderful the cuisine is.
743
00:43:41,285 --> 00:43:42,620
We need to share
it with the world.
744
00:43:43,579 --> 00:43:45,372
The tortilla unites everyone.
745
00:43:46,582 --> 00:43:49,793
[Narrator] So next time you bite
into a scrumptious steak taco,
746
00:43:50,294 --> 00:43:55,090
just remember that little round
miracle you hold in your hands,
747
00:43:55,174 --> 00:43:57,051
has a history worth savoring.
748
00:43:58,218 --> 00:44:00,471
And with guardians like these,
749
00:44:01,513 --> 00:44:03,182
the future is bright.
57029
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