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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,584 --> 00:00:03,086 [Lucia Barrios] If you go to the coast-- 2 00:00:03,169 --> 00:00:05,005 [clapping] 3 00:00:05,672 --> 00:00:06,965 If you go to the jungle-- 4 00:00:07,048 --> 00:00:09,175 [clapping] 5 00:00:09,259 --> 00:00:11,011 If you go to the highlands, 6 00:00:11,720 --> 00:00:13,680 wherever you go in Guatemala, 7 00:00:13,763 --> 00:00:18,059 you will always hear, you know, the clapping. 8 00:00:18,143 --> 00:00:23,106 [clapping] 9 00:00:23,189 --> 00:00:24,983 It's the heartbeat of the tortilla. 10 00:00:28,111 --> 00:00:29,362 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] You're in for a treat! 11 00:00:32,240 --> 00:00:36,745 Eating a Guatemalan tortilla is an explosion of flavors. 12 00:00:37,370 --> 00:00:39,164 [Lucia Barrios] I have tried tortillas 13 00:00:39,247 --> 00:00:40,790 that have surprised me. 14 00:00:41,374 --> 00:00:42,751 [Ana Silvia Monzón] Eating a tortilla right out 15 00:00:42,834 --> 00:00:43,835 of the griddle 16 00:00:43,918 --> 00:00:46,087 is one of life's pleasures. 17 00:00:46,671 --> 00:00:49,591 It's part of what mothers teach their girls. 18 00:00:51,426 --> 00:00:53,595 [Gaby Perdomo] There's a rich culture and history 19 00:00:53,678 --> 00:00:56,014 around tortillas and corn. 20 00:00:57,182 --> 00:01:00,310 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] The tortilla is king in Guatemala. 21 00:01:00,393 --> 00:01:02,562 [Bárbara Arroyo] It's part of who we are. 22 00:01:03,688 --> 00:01:05,607 [Doña Feliciana Yaqui] That's how it's done. 23 00:01:07,901 --> 00:01:10,111 [Narrator] Travel the world to rediscover 24 00:01:10,195 --> 00:01:12,280 our most fundamental food. 25 00:01:14,282 --> 00:01:17,660 And fall in love with bread all over again. 26 00:01:17,744 --> 00:01:20,455 [♪ theme music plays]. 27 00:01:25,376 --> 00:01:28,046 [Narrator] Bienvenidos a Guatemala City. 28 00:01:29,672 --> 00:01:32,759 The biggest, busiest, 29 00:01:32,842 --> 00:01:35,762 most happening capital in central America. 30 00:01:38,973 --> 00:01:42,310 Here, "Ladinos," with European mixed heritage 31 00:01:42,393 --> 00:01:43,394 rub elbows with 32 00:01:43,478 --> 00:01:46,231 over 20 indigenous groups of Maya ancestry. 33 00:01:47,065 --> 00:01:49,859 And every corner and side street serves up 34 00:01:49,943 --> 00:01:52,946 a complex mix of culture and flavor. 35 00:01:53,488 --> 00:01:55,532 Would you look at that! 36 00:01:55,615 --> 00:01:58,493 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] There is a cuisine that we eat in 37 00:01:58,576 --> 00:02:02,372 Guatemala City which is a mix of the traditions were, 38 00:02:02,455 --> 00:02:04,874 that were here already, before the Spaniards 39 00:02:04,958 --> 00:02:07,502 and the customs and traditions that they brought. 40 00:02:07,585 --> 00:02:10,463 [Narrator] Nicknamed, "The Land of the Eternal Spring," 41 00:02:10,547 --> 00:02:12,298 this small nation the size 42 00:02:12,382 --> 00:02:14,676 of Tennessee has a whopping 43 00:02:14,759 --> 00:02:18,513 360 microclimates, creating a rich array 44 00:02:18,596 --> 00:02:20,598 of produce-centered food. 45 00:02:21,766 --> 00:02:25,478 And at the center of it all, the tortilla. 46 00:02:26,104 --> 00:02:28,773 The heart of every Guatemalan meal, 47 00:02:28,857 --> 00:02:31,234 and maybe even the country itself. 48 00:02:36,322 --> 00:02:39,534 In a restaurant high above the city streets, 49 00:02:39,617 --> 00:02:43,788 one Guatemalan chef is on a mission to give the tortilla and 50 00:02:43,872 --> 00:02:47,333 her country some long overdue reverence. 51 00:02:49,377 --> 00:02:50,670 [Debora Fadul] There's just so much that 52 00:02:50,753 --> 00:02:52,338 goes into making a tortilla. 53 00:02:53,548 --> 00:02:55,466 Each step of the process is like a ceremony. 54 00:02:56,176 --> 00:02:58,803 And for people here it's just, like, 55 00:02:58,887 --> 00:03:01,556 "Oh tortillas? Yeah, that's easy." 56 00:03:01,639 --> 00:03:04,100 That's where I say, 57 00:03:04,184 --> 00:03:07,353 let's make it in a way that will make people value it. 58 00:03:12,400 --> 00:03:15,153 My name is Debora Fadul, but everyone calls me Debbie, 59 00:03:15,236 --> 00:03:17,780 so please go ahead and do so as well. 60 00:03:19,407 --> 00:03:21,576 I am incredibly honored to have you here 61 00:03:21,659 --> 00:03:23,161 in our restaurant today. 62 00:03:25,914 --> 00:03:28,958 [Narrator] Head chef Debbie Fadul runs Diacá, 63 00:03:29,042 --> 00:03:32,420 in a city with an emerging high end restaurant scene, 64 00:03:32,503 --> 00:03:35,215 this tiny spot is a stand-out. 65 00:03:35,840 --> 00:03:39,427 To get here, Debbie had to chart her own path. 66 00:03:40,345 --> 00:03:42,639 [Debora Fadul] I went to Camille, an incredible 67 00:03:42,722 --> 00:03:44,307 culinary school in Guatemala. 68 00:03:44,390 --> 00:03:48,311 It's based on French cuisine and teaches French techniques. 69 00:03:48,394 --> 00:03:50,438 But when I graduated, 70 00:03:50,521 --> 00:03:52,440 I chose to stay in Guatemala instead of 71 00:03:52,523 --> 00:03:54,984 leaving like everyone else. 72 00:03:55,068 --> 00:03:58,112 I didn't want to leave Guatemala because 73 00:03:58,196 --> 00:04:01,241 it's my home, the place I live in, 74 00:04:01,324 --> 00:04:04,035 the place where my feet are planted. 75 00:04:04,869 --> 00:04:06,746 [Narrator] And to Guatemalans, 76 00:04:06,829 --> 00:04:09,958 nothing tastes more of home than the tortilla. 77 00:04:13,127 --> 00:04:17,882 [Debora Fadul] Behind a tortilla there are many things involved. 78 00:04:19,550 --> 00:04:23,721 There's culture, geography, nature, history. 79 00:04:25,265 --> 00:04:27,725 You only note the true importance of something 80 00:04:27,809 --> 00:04:32,480 when you understand how complex it is to create it yourself. 81 00:04:34,649 --> 00:04:36,025 [Lucia Barrios] 10 years ago, 82 00:04:36,109 --> 00:04:39,654 you would never hear of a trending restaurant 83 00:04:39,737 --> 00:04:41,155 serving tortillas. 84 00:04:42,740 --> 00:04:44,450 My name is Lucia Barrios. 85 00:04:45,034 --> 00:04:50,415 And, uh, Guatemala for me, I think I have to say is my home. 86 00:04:50,498 --> 00:04:53,001 Through documenting gastronomy, 87 00:04:53,084 --> 00:04:56,713 I got to know it in a very deep way. 88 00:04:59,465 --> 00:05:02,719 Debbie's restaurant is having a huge impact because 89 00:05:02,802 --> 00:05:05,888 a lot of people are now paying attention to what she's saying. 90 00:05:06,639 --> 00:05:09,892 It's impossible to talk about Guatemalan gastronomy 91 00:05:09,976 --> 00:05:11,477 without talking about the tortilla, 92 00:05:11,561 --> 00:05:13,521 because the tortilla is basically what we 93 00:05:13,604 --> 00:05:16,774 eat every day, it's our bread. 94 00:05:18,568 --> 00:05:21,279 [Debora Fadul] And in my home it was always tortilla over bread. 95 00:05:22,363 --> 00:05:25,867 That's something that any Guatemalan will tell you, 96 00:05:26,284 --> 00:05:28,286 the memory of seeing freshly made tortillas at home, 97 00:05:28,369 --> 00:05:30,788 grabbing one while they're still making them, 98 00:05:30,872 --> 00:05:32,081 sprinkling salt on it and eating it. 99 00:05:32,165 --> 00:05:33,791 I'm salivating just thinking about it. 100 00:05:36,711 --> 00:05:39,005 [Narrator] Ah, the tortilla. 101 00:05:39,088 --> 00:05:42,800 The edible plate we know and love that cradles 102 00:05:42,884 --> 00:05:46,346 your carne asada and envelopes your enchiladas. 103 00:05:46,429 --> 00:05:48,723 It even has its own day of the week. 104 00:05:48,806 --> 00:05:51,601 [Reporter] Today is National Taco Day. 105 00:05:52,268 --> 00:05:56,939 [LeBron James] It's Taco Tuesday! 106 00:05:57,023 --> 00:05:58,816 [Narrator] Tortillas have been pop culture 107 00:05:58,900 --> 00:06:01,069 icons for decades. 108 00:06:01,152 --> 00:06:03,613 But if you think the ones from your local drive thru are 109 00:06:03,696 --> 00:06:06,157 the real deal, think again. 110 00:06:07,325 --> 00:06:10,620 Guatemalan tortillas are smaller, thicker, 111 00:06:10,703 --> 00:06:13,373 handmade with corn, and have a rich, 112 00:06:13,456 --> 00:06:17,502 smoky flavor that takes some serious training to make. 113 00:06:17,585 --> 00:06:19,962 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] It is a wonderful tradition, uh, 114 00:06:20,046 --> 00:06:25,093 that is simple, yet it takes a skill, uh, to make tortillas. 115 00:06:25,176 --> 00:06:30,223 I am Amalia Moreno-Damgaard, I am a, an award winning author, 116 00:06:30,306 --> 00:06:33,684 I am an entrepreneur, I am a, in Guatemala City 117 00:06:33,768 --> 00:06:36,270 and it is such a pleasure to be in my homeland. 118 00:06:36,854 --> 00:06:38,731 [Interviewer] It's impossible to talk about 119 00:06:38,815 --> 00:06:40,983 the tortilla without doing that, is that true? 120 00:06:41,067 --> 00:06:42,485 [Interviewer] Everybody starts to do it, when I ask 121 00:06:42,568 --> 00:06:44,445 about it, the tortillas. 122 00:06:44,529 --> 00:06:46,697 [Lucia Barrios] Yeah, because I feel like I just-- Yeah. 123 00:06:46,781 --> 00:06:49,242 You know, I grew up like hearing this, you know. 124 00:06:49,325 --> 00:06:51,536 [clapping] 125 00:06:51,619 --> 00:06:54,163 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] But this is the right motion, right? 126 00:06:54,247 --> 00:06:55,998 And that is an art form. 127 00:06:56,582 --> 00:06:58,793 [Bárbara Arroyo] Not everybody can make a good tortilla. 128 00:06:58,876 --> 00:07:01,337 I don't know how to make a good tortilla, unfortunately. 129 00:07:01,421 --> 00:07:02,630 I wish I knew. 130 00:07:02,713 --> 00:07:05,758 I've tried many times, but I've failed all the time. 131 00:07:06,801 --> 00:07:08,344 [Bárbara Arroyo] Fortunately, there's Conny. 132 00:07:10,555 --> 00:07:12,682 [rooster crowing] 133 00:07:21,065 --> 00:07:23,734 [Conny Hernandez] Some people like the job. 134 00:07:25,486 --> 00:07:26,821 Others don't. 135 00:07:27,363 --> 00:07:30,283 If they don't like it, they won't learn. 136 00:07:32,201 --> 00:07:35,163 I like making tortillas. 137 00:07:35,246 --> 00:07:38,583 I like what I do, and I put all my love into it. 138 00:07:39,250 --> 00:07:40,460 [Conny Hernandez] Mm-hmm. 139 00:07:44,797 --> 00:07:47,717 [Conny Hernandez] I learned tortilla-making from my mom. 140 00:07:49,302 --> 00:07:52,305 [Narrator] Six days a week, Conny Hernandez crafts her 141 00:07:52,388 --> 00:07:54,682 country's most beloved food. 142 00:07:54,765 --> 00:07:57,435 And her daughter Judith is by her side. 143 00:07:59,979 --> 00:08:01,606 [Judith Hernandez] Well, she is my boss! 144 00:08:02,899 --> 00:08:05,359 I just deliver the tortillas and help make them. 145 00:08:05,443 --> 00:08:10,990 She pays me my wage. That makes her the tortillería boss. 146 00:08:13,910 --> 00:08:16,537 [Narrator] Tortillas are flatbreads formed from masa, 147 00:08:18,080 --> 00:08:21,876 a dough made with ground corn, water, 148 00:08:22,919 --> 00:08:24,086 and salt. 149 00:08:26,130 --> 00:08:27,298 Mix... 150 00:08:27,757 --> 00:08:29,133 [Conny Hernandez] We add some water. 151 00:08:31,260 --> 00:08:32,553 [Narrator] Knead... 152 00:08:33,721 --> 00:08:35,890 [Conny Hernandez] We knead the masa thoroughly. 153 00:08:38,267 --> 00:08:39,310 And we begin... 154 00:08:41,354 --> 00:08:42,730 making tortillas. 155 00:08:43,814 --> 00:08:45,358 [Narrator] And slap. 156 00:08:45,441 --> 00:08:50,029 [clapping] 157 00:08:50,112 --> 00:08:53,658 Finally throw it on the comal, aka the griddle, 158 00:08:53,741 --> 00:08:56,536 and brown it to crispy-on-the-outside, 159 00:08:56,619 --> 00:08:58,788 soft-on-the-inside perfection. 160 00:08:59,372 --> 00:09:01,457 [Conny Hernandez] The more care you put into it, 161 00:09:01,541 --> 00:09:04,085 the more people want your tortillas. 162 00:09:04,502 --> 00:09:09,340 And it has to be a light color, as it gets your appetite going. 163 00:09:09,423 --> 00:09:13,177 It gets people going, like, "Let's go to Mrs. Conny's!" 164 00:09:13,261 --> 00:09:15,763 Hoping people don't go elsewhere, but Mrs. Conny's. 165 00:09:16,347 --> 00:09:18,558 [Narrator] Tortillas are a female-forward art form 166 00:09:18,641 --> 00:09:22,311 passed down through grandmothers and mothers and 167 00:09:22,395 --> 00:09:24,730 for some, a decent way to make a living. 168 00:09:24,814 --> 00:09:27,525 [Conny Hernandez] Since I am widowed without a husband, 169 00:09:27,608 --> 00:09:32,446 it was hard providing for children by myself, so 170 00:09:32,530 --> 00:09:34,323 my mom was like, "I won't continue with 171 00:09:34,407 --> 00:09:36,325 the business, want to run it?" 172 00:09:36,409 --> 00:09:37,743 And I agreed. 173 00:09:37,827 --> 00:09:42,748 And I thank God for giving me a dignified job. An honest job. 174 00:09:42,832 --> 00:09:47,211 It makes me proud to know I can be useful in many ways. 175 00:09:47,295 --> 00:09:50,548 I figure I make around 500 tortillas. 176 00:09:51,340 --> 00:09:53,301 [Judith Hernandez] I make a lot less. 177 00:09:54,468 --> 00:09:56,971 I can only make around 300, 178 00:09:57,054 --> 00:09:59,390 considering I go out on deliveries. 179 00:10:12,111 --> 00:10:16,824 I'm practically carrying 200, or more than 200 tortillas. 180 00:10:16,907 --> 00:10:18,326 So it's very heavy. 181 00:10:19,201 --> 00:10:21,162 [Narrator] But don't you go worrying about Judith, 182 00:10:21,871 --> 00:10:24,540 because those tortillas sell fast. 183 00:10:25,124 --> 00:10:27,835 [clapping] 184 00:10:27,918 --> 00:10:30,296 [Bárbara Arroyo] We eat tortillas three times a day; 185 00:10:30,379 --> 00:10:33,341 for breakfast, for lunch and for dinner. 186 00:10:33,424 --> 00:10:36,135 And that's why you see the signs in many places that says, 187 00:10:36,218 --> 00:10:39,764 "Tortillas three times a day, Tortillas los tres tiempos." 188 00:10:40,431 --> 00:10:42,642 [Lucia Barrios] I don't know any Guatemalan that 189 00:10:42,725 --> 00:10:44,393 doesn't eat tortilla. 190 00:10:44,477 --> 00:10:48,564 You can just go to the market and find a menu of tortillas 191 00:10:48,648 --> 00:10:51,901 with 100 types of different options. 192 00:10:51,984 --> 00:10:55,446 From the richest of the rich to the poorest of the poor 193 00:10:55,529 --> 00:10:59,367 absolutely everybody eats and loves tortillas. 194 00:10:59,950 --> 00:11:01,118 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] If there is no tortilla, 195 00:11:01,202 --> 00:11:02,411 there is no meal. 196 00:11:02,495 --> 00:11:04,580 It is the bread that everyone craves. 197 00:11:04,664 --> 00:11:06,624 [Narrator] At about five cents a pop, 198 00:11:06,707 --> 00:11:09,543 tortillas are the ultimate street food but 199 00:11:09,627 --> 00:11:12,588 they have a lot more to offer than a cheap meal. 200 00:11:13,506 --> 00:11:16,258 These hot little pockets contain nothing less than 201 00:11:16,342 --> 00:11:19,512 the story of Guatemala and its people. 202 00:11:23,307 --> 00:11:26,435 [♪ upbeat music plays] 203 00:11:26,519 --> 00:11:28,270 [Narrator] In the heart of Guatemala City, 204 00:11:28,354 --> 00:11:33,067 chef Debbie Fadul is connecting to her ancestral roots through 205 00:11:33,150 --> 00:11:34,610 her supernatural palate. 206 00:11:37,655 --> 00:11:41,659 -It smells like burnt pineapple. -Like pineapple liquor. 207 00:11:41,742 --> 00:11:42,910 [Debora Fadul] Caramelized pineapple. 208 00:11:44,537 --> 00:11:46,664 It's funny, but there are lots of times 209 00:11:46,747 --> 00:11:48,749 when I'm doing something 210 00:11:49,458 --> 00:11:52,294 and I'm transported to grandma's kitchen and 211 00:11:52,378 --> 00:11:55,297 the memory of learning it from her. 212 00:11:57,091 --> 00:11:59,135 My grandmother was a spectacular cook. 213 00:12:00,386 --> 00:12:04,098 But the great part about her was that she broke stereotypes. 214 00:12:04,181 --> 00:12:06,684 Out in the street, you would have never guessed 215 00:12:06,767 --> 00:12:09,103 that such a dolled-up lady 216 00:12:09,603 --> 00:12:12,106 could go into the kitchen and break 217 00:12:12,189 --> 00:12:14,442 a turkey's neck, de-feather it, 218 00:12:14,525 --> 00:12:16,485 and just do everything from scratch. 219 00:12:17,695 --> 00:12:20,239 From a young age, I had this curiosity for 220 00:12:20,322 --> 00:12:22,992 textures and smells. 221 00:12:23,075 --> 00:12:27,037 Tomatoes weren't just red and tasted like tomatoes. 222 00:12:27,121 --> 00:12:33,335 For me, it meant citric, floral, contains such and such notes. 223 00:12:33,419 --> 00:12:35,337 So basically, it all became what we're doing 224 00:12:35,421 --> 00:12:37,423 now at the restaurant. 225 00:12:38,424 --> 00:12:40,760 [Narrator] The name of Debbie's restaurant, Diacá, 226 00:12:40,843 --> 00:12:43,220 a twist on the Spanish de aca, 227 00:12:43,304 --> 00:12:45,014 means from here. 228 00:12:45,639 --> 00:12:48,017 [Debora Fadul] I would always get the same question: 229 00:12:48,517 --> 00:12:50,352 "These incredible, big, juicy tomatoes weren't 230 00:12:50,436 --> 00:12:52,396 grown in Guatemala, right?" 231 00:12:52,480 --> 00:12:54,774 And I was like, "They indeed were." 232 00:12:57,151 --> 00:13:01,322 "This is delicious! You didn't study cooking here, right?" 233 00:13:01,405 --> 00:13:05,034 So Guatemalans were actively underestimating Guatemala. 234 00:13:05,117 --> 00:13:07,077 I wondered why people found it so hard to believe 235 00:13:07,161 --> 00:13:09,288 that we can do beautiful things 236 00:13:09,371 --> 00:13:11,832 starting from the inside out. 237 00:13:12,625 --> 00:13:15,336 So my goal has always been that 238 00:13:15,419 --> 00:13:20,674 of showing Guatemalans how great our country is. How valuable. 239 00:13:20,758 --> 00:13:23,052 And it keeps getting stronger and stronger. 240 00:13:25,221 --> 00:13:27,765 [Narrator] That quest to restore Guatemala's pride 241 00:13:27,848 --> 00:13:31,477 through its food means going back to her country's roots, 242 00:13:32,061 --> 00:13:34,522 a history that runs deep. 243 00:13:35,940 --> 00:13:39,401 Just below Guatemala City lies one of the most powerful 244 00:13:39,485 --> 00:13:42,279 civilizations that has ever existed. 245 00:13:49,829 --> 00:13:51,747 [Bárbara Arroyo] I am Bárbara Arroyo. 246 00:13:51,831 --> 00:13:53,791 I am an archeologist working at 247 00:13:53,874 --> 00:13:57,086 the site of Kaminaljuyú in Guatemala City. 248 00:13:58,337 --> 00:14:00,923 Kaminaljuyú was settled originally 249 00:14:01,006 --> 00:14:03,133 around 400 before Christ. 250 00:14:04,093 --> 00:14:08,556 The acropolis is one of the most important spaces of 251 00:14:08,639 --> 00:14:11,725 the site because it had a water spring. 252 00:14:12,393 --> 00:14:14,854 Springs, water that was coming out of the ground 253 00:14:14,937 --> 00:14:18,524 were magical places for the ancient Maya, and still are. 254 00:14:19,733 --> 00:14:20,818 [Narrator] Picture this, 255 00:14:20,901 --> 00:14:24,864 Mesoamerica, about 3,000 years ago, give or take. 256 00:14:25,364 --> 00:14:26,574 This vast region that 257 00:14:26,657 --> 00:14:28,450 included modern day Mexico, 258 00:14:28,534 --> 00:14:30,327 Belize and Guatemala 259 00:14:30,411 --> 00:14:33,330 was ruled by the Maya. 260 00:14:33,414 --> 00:14:36,083 [Bárbara Arroyo] The Maya civilization was a very advanced 261 00:14:36,166 --> 00:14:39,879 They had important knowledge about astronomy, 262 00:14:39,962 --> 00:14:41,922 about agricultural cycles, 263 00:14:42,006 --> 00:14:43,424 about the calendar. 264 00:14:45,134 --> 00:14:47,344 [Lucia Barrios] Mayans see it as an ecosystem 265 00:14:47,428 --> 00:14:50,055 where everything works together. 266 00:14:50,139 --> 00:14:53,726 So humans are definitely not in the center. 267 00:14:53,809 --> 00:14:57,646 They are collaborating with animals who are also spirits, 268 00:14:58,147 --> 00:15:02,318 also giving them messages with climate, 269 00:15:02,818 --> 00:15:05,112 with the land, with the crops. 270 00:15:06,947 --> 00:15:09,158 [Narrator] In this panoply of Gods, 271 00:15:09,742 --> 00:15:12,077 one rose above the rest. 272 00:15:15,956 --> 00:15:19,501 Maya myth has it that after botched attempts to form humans 273 00:15:19,585 --> 00:15:24,298 out of wood and mud, the Gods found success with maize. 274 00:15:25,132 --> 00:15:28,010 When the Maya called themselves people of the corn, 275 00:15:28,093 --> 00:15:30,095 they meant it literally. 276 00:15:31,180 --> 00:15:35,559 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] Corn is the staple grain that 277 00:15:35,643 --> 00:15:39,438 has made civilizations in this area flourish. 278 00:15:39,521 --> 00:15:42,441 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] It is revered as a deity. 279 00:15:42,524 --> 00:15:44,568 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] Very hard to, to dethrone. 280 00:15:45,527 --> 00:15:48,614 [Lucia Barrios] If you look at the Mayan sacred book called, 281 00:15:48,697 --> 00:15:52,076 The Popol Vuh, it even talks about four different corns, 282 00:15:52,159 --> 00:15:54,536 you know, to talk about the four different races 283 00:15:54,620 --> 00:15:55,996 that humans have. 284 00:15:57,414 --> 00:15:59,792 [Bárbara Arroyo] Corn is referred to as, "Ixim," 285 00:15:59,875 --> 00:16:02,211 in many of the Maya languages. 286 00:16:02,294 --> 00:16:05,631 The family of the Maya languages is huge, 287 00:16:05,714 --> 00:16:08,175 but there are commonalities, and this is one of them. 288 00:16:08,258 --> 00:16:10,594 And that's very, very important, because it 289 00:16:10,678 --> 00:16:13,597 talks about the relevance of it for who the Maya are. 290 00:16:14,348 --> 00:16:16,016 [Narrator] And where there is corn, 291 00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:17,935 there's the tortilla. 292 00:16:19,770 --> 00:16:24,358 [Bárbara Arroyo] We have objects that date to 200 before Christ 293 00:16:24,441 --> 00:16:27,861 and represent what we have interpreted as griddles. 294 00:16:28,529 --> 00:16:32,074 They have scratches, and the scratches were made with 295 00:16:32,157 --> 00:16:35,786 the actual corn husk, to make sure that the tortillas would 296 00:16:35,869 --> 00:16:37,830 not stick to the griddles. 297 00:16:38,747 --> 00:16:40,708 Corn is the essence of the Maya. 298 00:16:43,085 --> 00:16:45,087 [Lucia Barrios] There's a way of looking at the world 299 00:16:45,170 --> 00:16:47,131 that is very Guatemalan. 300 00:16:48,132 --> 00:16:50,884 There's like this magic to it that is everywhere and 301 00:16:50,968 --> 00:16:53,470 a magical way of seeing the world. 302 00:16:54,263 --> 00:16:57,683 Plants are sacred, and when they go into their land, 303 00:16:57,766 --> 00:17:00,811 before entering, they have to ask permission to the land 304 00:17:00,894 --> 00:17:03,147 because they know that this land has a spirit. 305 00:17:07,776 --> 00:17:11,864 [Doña Feliciana Yaqui] We could say that we are in our place. 306 00:17:13,282 --> 00:17:15,701 Guatemala, yes, Guatemala. 307 00:17:17,286 --> 00:17:18,912 The land 308 00:17:19,580 --> 00:17:21,665 that feeds us, 309 00:17:21,749 --> 00:17:24,668 the earth, and God who irrigates it with water 310 00:17:24,752 --> 00:17:26,628 so that everything goes well. 311 00:17:28,338 --> 00:17:35,345 I am Kaqchikel, we are on Mother Earth, and we are many. 312 00:17:37,014 --> 00:17:39,266 [Narrator] Three hours west of Guatemala City, 313 00:17:39,349 --> 00:17:40,768 nestled in the highlands, 314 00:17:40,851 --> 00:17:43,437 is the small Maya village of Patzún. 315 00:17:46,857 --> 00:17:50,569 Here, Doña Feliciana Yaqui is the matriarch keeping 316 00:17:50,652 --> 00:17:53,614 Guatemala's culinary trade secrets alive. 317 00:18:00,537 --> 00:18:03,832 [Doña Feliciana Yaqui] There are my daughters-in-law, 318 00:18:04,291 --> 00:18:06,460 my granddaughters, 319 00:18:06,543 --> 00:18:09,254 they helped me to work. 320 00:18:24,103 --> 00:18:26,522 Some made the tamales, others the food, 321 00:18:26,605 --> 00:18:29,066 so we all help each other. 322 00:18:31,819 --> 00:18:35,614 We shelled the corn, we did everything together. 323 00:18:36,240 --> 00:18:39,618 We help each other to get the job done. 324 00:18:48,168 --> 00:18:51,046 When the fire is low, they cook very well. 325 00:18:51,547 --> 00:18:54,341 When the fire is high, they burn but do not cook well. 326 00:18:55,717 --> 00:18:56,760 Yes, they have to learn to make nixtamal, 327 00:18:56,844 --> 00:18:57,845 they have to be taught, 328 00:18:57,928 --> 00:18:59,888 you have to teach them to learn 329 00:19:01,265 --> 00:19:04,685 to make tortillas, yes, to make tortillas. 330 00:19:05,519 --> 00:19:08,147 [Narrator] It might look as simple as boiling corn, 331 00:19:08,230 --> 00:19:10,190 but Doña Feliciana is practicing 332 00:19:10,274 --> 00:19:12,693 an ancient Maya culinary technique 333 00:19:12,776 --> 00:19:14,611 called nixtamalization. 334 00:19:20,450 --> 00:19:22,786 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] Nixtamalization is basically 335 00:19:22,870 --> 00:19:25,455 the cooking of mature corn, 336 00:19:25,539 --> 00:19:29,793 in water and calcium hydroxide, 337 00:19:30,252 --> 00:19:34,798 to make the corn tender so it can be ground into masa. 338 00:19:37,467 --> 00:19:39,720 [Bárbara Arroyo] And at the same time it becomes nutritious 339 00:19:39,803 --> 00:19:41,638 because you're adding calcium to 340 00:19:41,722 --> 00:19:45,100 the actual tortilla producing process. 341 00:19:45,726 --> 00:19:47,477 [Narrator] The aroma and tenderness of 342 00:19:47,561 --> 00:19:51,315 Guatemalan tortillas owe it all to nixtamalization, 343 00:19:51,398 --> 00:19:54,276 a Maya marvel of culinary engineering. 344 00:19:54,860 --> 00:19:57,988 But when the Spanish invaded in 1523, 345 00:19:58,071 --> 00:20:00,115 millennia's worth of agricultural and 346 00:20:00,199 --> 00:20:02,868 culinary know-how were under threat. 347 00:20:02,951 --> 00:20:04,786 [Ana Silvia Monzón] My name's Ana Silvia Monzón. 348 00:20:05,162 --> 00:20:10,167 I'm a Guatemalan sociologist and feminist communicator. 349 00:20:21,011 --> 00:20:23,847 Three hundred years of a colonial structure 350 00:20:23,931 --> 00:20:27,059 destroyed everything that the indigenous peoples 351 00:20:27,142 --> 00:20:29,436 considered as their way of life. 352 00:20:30,729 --> 00:20:33,023 Indigenous peoples were wiped out 353 00:20:33,106 --> 00:20:38,737 together with their culture, language, beliefs, and rituals. 354 00:20:39,988 --> 00:20:41,657 [Narrator] Even the corn tortilla didn't 355 00:20:41,740 --> 00:20:43,992 make it out of colonization unscathed. 356 00:20:44,534 --> 00:20:47,412 That flour tortilla you know and love? 357 00:20:47,496 --> 00:20:50,332 It's made with wheat, first brought over by 358 00:20:50,415 --> 00:20:52,125 the Spanish conquistadores, 359 00:20:52,209 --> 00:20:54,544 who turned their noses down on corn. 360 00:20:54,628 --> 00:20:58,215 The impact of that attitude carries on to this day. 361 00:20:58,966 --> 00:21:01,760 [Lucia Barrios] Growing in a country that was a colony, 362 00:21:01,843 --> 00:21:04,972 one of the things that happens to us growing up is 363 00:21:05,055 --> 00:21:08,892 that we admire a lot of developed countries because 364 00:21:08,976 --> 00:21:11,895 that's where we see that the power is coming from. 365 00:21:12,729 --> 00:21:14,189 I ate tortillas and I enjoyed them, 366 00:21:14,273 --> 00:21:17,025 but we didn't really appreciate it because even if 367 00:21:17,109 --> 00:21:19,736 we had it every day in our house, it was something 368 00:21:19,820 --> 00:21:23,115 that was always considered less, you know, because it 369 00:21:23,198 --> 00:21:26,702 was something that people with lesser resources had. 370 00:21:28,453 --> 00:21:30,664 [Narrator] Under wheat-loving colonialism, 371 00:21:30,747 --> 00:21:34,626 the corn tortilla stayed on the menu, cheap, easy, 372 00:21:34,710 --> 00:21:36,128 and eaten everywhere. 373 00:21:36,920 --> 00:21:39,840 But its history and cultural value diminished. 374 00:21:41,133 --> 00:21:43,552 [Lucia Barrios] It's a decolonization process that 375 00:21:43,635 --> 00:21:46,388 I think we're all going through as a society. 376 00:21:46,471 --> 00:21:49,266 And gastronomy is a fundamental, uh, 377 00:21:49,349 --> 00:21:50,434 pillar for that. 378 00:21:51,893 --> 00:21:53,854 [Narrator] Resurrecting Guatemala's past to help 379 00:21:53,937 --> 00:21:55,480 secure its future? 380 00:21:55,564 --> 00:21:57,524 That's a lot to put on a tortilla's 381 00:21:57,607 --> 00:21:59,067 round little shoulders. 382 00:21:59,568 --> 00:22:01,278 But in one colonial city, 383 00:22:01,361 --> 00:22:05,490 a tortilla resistance is getting fired up. 384 00:22:09,995 --> 00:22:13,623 [♪ upbeat music plays] 385 00:22:13,707 --> 00:22:17,753 [Narrator] An hour outside of Guatemala's capital is Antigua. 386 00:22:19,254 --> 00:22:22,549 For Guatemalans looking to escape the big city, 387 00:22:22,632 --> 00:22:23,842 it's a peaceful getaway, 388 00:22:25,052 --> 00:22:28,263 except for the occasional volcanic eruption, that is. 389 00:22:29,431 --> 00:22:32,100 [explosion] 390 00:22:33,560 --> 00:22:37,814 Antigua is ringed by volcanoes, the tallest has a peak known by 391 00:22:37,898 --> 00:22:40,400 locals as, The Three Sisters. 392 00:22:42,903 --> 00:22:46,490 The minerals released by these fiery giants have 393 00:22:46,573 --> 00:22:47,657 turned the land into 394 00:22:47,741 --> 00:22:50,869 some of the richest farming soil in the world. 395 00:22:52,621 --> 00:22:53,914 [Gaby Perdomo] These three volcanoes are always 396 00:22:53,997 --> 00:22:55,248 putting up a show for us. 397 00:22:56,291 --> 00:22:59,086 People who visit us for the first time think it's incredible 398 00:22:59,169 --> 00:23:02,130 that we live so close to an active volcano. 399 00:23:04,091 --> 00:23:06,718 [Narrator] Here, in the land of earth and fire, 400 00:23:07,511 --> 00:23:10,847 is where Gaby Perdomo found a new start. 401 00:23:13,266 --> 00:23:14,810 [Gaby Perdomo] I am an industrial engineer. 402 00:23:15,602 --> 00:23:17,396 I lived abroad for eight years, 403 00:23:17,896 --> 00:23:22,275 and on my return I saw my country with new eyes. 404 00:23:23,860 --> 00:23:25,570 You realize that people in Guatemala 405 00:23:25,654 --> 00:23:27,280 still make tortillas by hand, 406 00:23:28,073 --> 00:23:30,283 that there's a huge range of native corn species, 407 00:23:30,700 --> 00:23:35,831 and that there's a rich history around tortillas and corn. 408 00:23:37,791 --> 00:23:41,503 That's how this adventure of opening El Comalote began. 409 00:23:42,337 --> 00:23:45,382 [Narrator] El Comalote isn't just another tortillería. 410 00:23:46,133 --> 00:23:49,553 It's the headquarters for a culinary renaissance. 411 00:23:50,137 --> 00:23:51,555 Its secret weapon? 412 00:23:52,264 --> 00:23:55,892 An all-female team of tortilla superheroes. 413 00:24:06,278 --> 00:24:08,405 [Gaby Perdomo] We're like busy bees every day, 414 00:24:08,488 --> 00:24:10,782 because there's always something new. 415 00:24:11,283 --> 00:24:15,787 We can all act on every area of the business when needed. 416 00:24:18,415 --> 00:24:22,127 Zayda is our tortillería's production chief. 417 00:24:23,128 --> 00:24:27,382 She likes doing things right and inspiring others to do right. 418 00:24:28,675 --> 00:24:30,302 [Zayda Marleny Pérez López] I can't imagine a world 419 00:24:30,385 --> 00:24:32,053 without tortillas. 420 00:24:32,721 --> 00:24:34,890 We must feel proud of knowing how to make them. 421 00:24:38,477 --> 00:24:43,023 Here at Comalote, we make five types of tortillas. 422 00:24:43,106 --> 00:24:45,317 We have our white tortilla, 423 00:24:45,400 --> 00:24:47,027 the yellow tortilla, 424 00:24:47,110 --> 00:24:48,570 the black tortilla. 425 00:24:49,321 --> 00:24:52,157 We also have red corn tortillas. 426 00:24:52,782 --> 00:24:56,077 One is made with chili guaques, and the other with cilantro. 427 00:24:57,621 --> 00:25:02,918 Here, we make around 1,000 tortillas a day. 428 00:25:04,419 --> 00:25:05,670 All of them are handmade. 429 00:25:12,427 --> 00:25:15,388 [Gaby Perdomo] I remember when I first met Zayda. 430 00:25:15,972 --> 00:25:19,017 She seemed a little reserved and 431 00:25:19,100 --> 00:25:22,437 worried about where this was going. 432 00:25:22,521 --> 00:25:26,149 And today you can see her teaching her colleagues. 433 00:25:26,816 --> 00:25:28,985 She demands by setting an example. 434 00:25:30,403 --> 00:25:33,156 [Zayda Marleny Pérez López] The truth is 435 00:25:33,240 --> 00:25:35,575 I'm very curious sometimes. 436 00:25:35,659 --> 00:25:36,952 I like to learn, 437 00:25:37,035 --> 00:25:41,748 but I work, I like to work and I keep on working. 438 00:25:43,208 --> 00:25:46,044 [Narrator] But even skilled artisans like Zayda have seen 439 00:25:46,127 --> 00:25:48,964 the fruits of their labor go overlooked. 440 00:25:51,007 --> 00:25:53,593 [Lucia Barrios] I think that tortillas is something that has 441 00:25:53,677 --> 00:25:56,846 been specifically a women's job. 442 00:25:56,930 --> 00:26:02,185 Women in general have, uh, have this closeness with cooking, uh, 443 00:26:02,269 --> 00:26:04,020 in Guatemala because 444 00:26:04,104 --> 00:26:06,147 they have been doing it for their families. 445 00:26:06,731 --> 00:26:10,068 [Bárbara Arroyo] Um, I, I don't think I have ever seen 446 00:26:10,151 --> 00:26:14,239 in my whole life a man make tortillas in Guatemala. 447 00:26:17,367 --> 00:26:20,161 [Ana Silvia Monzón] Tortillerías are not valued 448 00:26:20,245 --> 00:26:22,914 because it is a job done by women. 449 00:26:23,957 --> 00:26:26,543 [Narrator] In Guatemala, the women who make tortillas are 450 00:26:26,626 --> 00:26:28,962 paid rock bottom wages. 451 00:26:29,045 --> 00:26:32,716 Some earn as little as $65 American a month, 452 00:26:32,799 --> 00:26:35,218 despite working around the clock. 453 00:26:36,386 --> 00:26:38,722 [Gaby Perdomo] The history of tortillerías 454 00:26:38,805 --> 00:26:41,850 has a dark side to it, 455 00:26:43,351 --> 00:26:46,730 because the "three times a day" concept 456 00:26:46,855 --> 00:26:51,192 has resulted in a form of slave labor. 457 00:26:52,485 --> 00:26:57,407 They have to satisfy a market that demands the cheapest prices 458 00:26:57,490 --> 00:27:00,160 for a product seen as a daily-consumption commodity. 459 00:27:01,494 --> 00:27:04,331 I think that's where my awakening comes from. 460 00:27:05,081 --> 00:27:09,878 Understanding that a tortilla made from native corn, 461 00:27:09,961 --> 00:27:11,880 where the job of a tortilla maker is 462 00:27:11,963 --> 00:27:14,591 dignified through fair pay, 463 00:27:14,674 --> 00:27:19,721 can change our country for sure, despite how small a gesture. 464 00:27:22,098 --> 00:27:25,685 [Narrator] But if Gaby's going to revolutionize her country, 465 00:27:26,269 --> 00:27:28,521 she can't do it alone. 466 00:27:32,359 --> 00:27:38,031 [♪ upbeat music plays] 467 00:27:38,114 --> 00:27:40,575 [Narrator] Chef Debbie Fadul is determined to preserve 468 00:27:40,659 --> 00:27:42,202 her culture through food, 469 00:27:44,037 --> 00:27:49,209 and one of her closest allies is Gaby Perdomo. 470 00:27:51,127 --> 00:27:52,128 [Debora Fadul] [in Spanish] Hello! Hello! 471 00:27:52,212 --> 00:27:53,380 [Gaby Perdomo] Oh, hi! 472 00:27:54,047 --> 00:27:56,591 -So nice to see you, you look so pretty! -Thank you! 473 00:27:57,342 --> 00:27:59,219 [Debora Fadul] I should have dressed up nicer. 474 00:28:01,137 --> 00:28:02,555 It's so nice to see you. 475 00:28:04,265 --> 00:28:05,642 Oh my God. 476 00:28:05,725 --> 00:28:06,893 With a little salt... 477 00:28:07,560 --> 00:28:13,024 When I began looking for places where I could find local corn 478 00:28:13,525 --> 00:28:15,610 I heard about El Comalote. 479 00:28:16,528 --> 00:28:20,824 And I really like working with people who have the same drive 480 00:28:20,907 --> 00:28:27,455 or are on the same path of giving value to local products 481 00:28:27,539 --> 00:28:29,958 and bringing producers closer to us. 482 00:28:31,543 --> 00:28:33,545 [Gaby Perdomo] And by chance we realized 483 00:28:33,628 --> 00:28:35,380 we were fighting for the same cause. 484 00:28:35,964 --> 00:28:39,259 To me, the work she does is just incredible. 485 00:28:39,342 --> 00:28:40,427 -Are you ready? -Ready. 486 00:28:40,510 --> 00:28:41,511 -We're using my car? -Sure. 487 00:28:42,178 --> 00:28:43,471 [Deborah Fadul] [in Spanish] All right. 488 00:28:43,555 --> 00:28:45,724 [Debora Fadul] Bye, girls! [Gaby Perdomo] Bye, girls! 489 00:28:55,358 --> 00:28:57,527 [Narrator] Debbie and Gaby are on a hunt for what might be 490 00:28:57,610 --> 00:29:01,823 their country's greatest culinary treasure, corn. 491 00:29:04,951 --> 00:29:06,953 [Gaby Perdomo] Hello. 492 00:29:08,663 --> 00:29:10,081 [All] [in Spanish] Hello! 493 00:29:10,165 --> 00:29:12,041 -How are you? -Great, and you? 494 00:29:12,125 --> 00:29:13,835 [Narrator] And one of their top sources is 495 00:29:13,918 --> 00:29:16,880 local farmer Doña Matea Ojer González. 496 00:29:16,963 --> 00:29:18,339 [Debora Fadul] It's so nice to see you. 497 00:29:18,423 --> 00:29:20,759 -How are you? -Great, thank you. 498 00:29:20,842 --> 00:29:22,719 [Debora Fadul] Thank you, excuse me. 499 00:29:23,803 --> 00:29:25,472 [Gaby Perdomo] How's your harvest doing? 500 00:29:25,555 --> 00:29:27,515 [Doña Matea Ojer González] Thank God, we had 501 00:29:27,599 --> 00:29:30,435 good quality this year. 502 00:29:30,518 --> 00:29:34,022 We were able to have a good harvest. 503 00:29:34,105 --> 00:29:35,690 That's a first, actually. 504 00:29:35,774 --> 00:29:36,941 -[in Spanish] Wow! -[in Spanish] Yeah, this year. 505 00:29:37,025 --> 00:29:39,194 [Debora Fadul] So you go up to producers like 506 00:29:39,277 --> 00:29:40,737 Doña Matea, for instance, 507 00:29:41,321 --> 00:29:45,033 they have such a deep connection to their corn. 508 00:29:45,116 --> 00:29:48,995 A crop that isn't easy to grow and produce. 509 00:29:49,829 --> 00:29:52,749 [Doña Matea Ojer González] What we have here is what 510 00:29:52,832 --> 00:29:55,043 we are eating, consuming 511 00:29:55,126 --> 00:29:56,628 these past months. 512 00:29:56,711 --> 00:29:59,255 That is what we have here. 513 00:29:59,339 --> 00:30:02,926 -I'd love to see that. -Please, come in. 514 00:30:03,009 --> 00:30:05,428 [Debora Fadul] This was the best year, Doña Matea. 515 00:30:07,388 --> 00:30:10,308 [Narrator] Doña Matea is mostly growing this corn for 516 00:30:10,391 --> 00:30:13,353 her family, but she's sitting on gold. 517 00:30:13,436 --> 00:30:15,188 Small scale farms like this are how 518 00:30:15,271 --> 00:30:17,899 ancient Guatemalan corn has survived. 519 00:30:19,818 --> 00:30:21,402 [Debora Fadul] They look really nice, Doña Matea. 520 00:30:21,486 --> 00:30:22,904 [Doña Matea Ojer González] Thank you. 521 00:30:23,446 --> 00:30:25,448 [Gaby Perdomo] This one looks like... 522 00:30:25,532 --> 00:30:26,616 [Debora Fadul] Look at that one. 523 00:30:26,699 --> 00:30:28,326 They look like jewelry. 524 00:30:28,409 --> 00:30:31,704 Well, they are. They are a luxury. 525 00:30:31,788 --> 00:30:33,706 Even more valuable. 526 00:30:35,375 --> 00:30:39,712 Producers have it very hard. 527 00:30:39,796 --> 00:30:42,048 And more so in countries like Guatemala 528 00:30:42,131 --> 00:30:45,260 where people would rather look to the outside than locally. 529 00:30:45,343 --> 00:30:49,931 When I realized that, I was like, this has to change. 530 00:30:50,014 --> 00:30:55,436 I want to be part of a solution, not of a problem. 531 00:30:55,520 --> 00:30:59,440 Which meant meeting and reaching out directly to producers, 532 00:30:59,524 --> 00:31:01,192 because they are the real experts. 533 00:31:02,235 --> 00:31:04,737 [Narrator] You'd think an invaluable heritage wouldn't 534 00:31:04,821 --> 00:31:07,198 need protecting, but there are forces at 535 00:31:07,282 --> 00:31:10,451 play threatening Guatemala's culinary legacy. 536 00:31:14,080 --> 00:31:16,124 In the last few decades, 537 00:31:16,207 --> 00:31:20,420 hybrid corn, a mix of local and foreign grains that's hardy and 538 00:31:20,503 --> 00:31:24,507 easier to grow, has flooded the Guatemalan market, 539 00:31:26,092 --> 00:31:28,803 threatening the demand for heritage varieties. 540 00:31:33,600 --> 00:31:36,436 [Gaby Perdomo] We could say that over 90% of all tortillerías 541 00:31:36,519 --> 00:31:40,481 use hybrid corn or corn flour. 542 00:31:41,608 --> 00:31:46,279 Since no markets are looking for native corn, 543 00:31:46,362 --> 00:31:48,990 new generations grow uninterested 544 00:31:49,073 --> 00:31:52,869 in cultivating and protecting native corn species. 545 00:31:53,953 --> 00:31:57,415 As a Guatemalan, I am very concerned about 546 00:31:58,124 --> 00:32:00,501 protecting these seeds, 547 00:32:00,585 --> 00:32:03,630 which aren't only our daily sustenance 548 00:32:03,713 --> 00:32:08,009 but part of the roots of our history and culture. 549 00:32:08,551 --> 00:32:11,095 [Debora Fadul] We should take some of these 550 00:32:11,179 --> 00:32:14,140 to make tortillas out of... 551 00:32:14,223 --> 00:32:15,850 [Gaby Perdomo] Pinto corn. 552 00:32:16,517 --> 00:32:17,936 [Doña Matea Ojer González] Yes. 553 00:32:20,188 --> 00:32:21,606 [Debora Fadul] Thank you, Doña Matea! 554 00:32:22,649 --> 00:32:24,400 [Narrator] Precious cargo in tow, 555 00:32:24,484 --> 00:32:26,527 Debbie heads back to Guatemala City 556 00:32:26,611 --> 00:32:28,613 to perform culinary magic. 557 00:32:29,989 --> 00:32:33,618 In preparation for a dinner that will put the tortilla 558 00:32:33,701 --> 00:32:35,244 at the center of the table. 559 00:32:40,208 --> 00:32:42,168 [Narrator] Back at her restaurant Diacá, 560 00:32:42,251 --> 00:32:45,505 the stage is set for chef Debbie Fadul to unleash 561 00:32:45,588 --> 00:32:49,676 a symphony of flavors and textures with Doña Matea's corn. 562 00:32:50,426 --> 00:32:51,970 If you ever wanted a front row seat to 563 00:32:52,053 --> 00:32:55,807 a chef's creative process, today is your lucky day. 564 00:32:57,058 --> 00:32:59,352 [Debora Fadul] Doña Matea's corn 565 00:32:59,435 --> 00:33:05,775 had macuy, black salt, plum, and blackberry notes. 566 00:33:06,651 --> 00:33:09,362 When you begin examining ingredients like this, 567 00:33:09,445 --> 00:33:10,530 everything else disappears. 568 00:33:12,198 --> 00:33:14,200 And they begin talking to you. 569 00:33:14,283 --> 00:33:17,537 "Hi! This is what I taste like! This is my flavor!" 570 00:33:17,620 --> 00:33:19,330 Based on that, you'll be able to create. 571 00:33:19,998 --> 00:33:21,249 Nope, that's not the one. 572 00:33:21,332 --> 00:33:22,625 This one could be it. 573 00:33:22,709 --> 00:33:25,753 You feel it in your tongue, in your sense. 574 00:33:26,254 --> 00:33:29,382 And it sets off an explosion of flavors in my head. 575 00:33:31,634 --> 00:33:36,014 Some corn species work better in tamales, flour, or salpor. 576 00:33:36,097 --> 00:33:40,560 Floury corn has its uses, flint corn is for popcorn. 577 00:33:41,602 --> 00:33:43,896 We take white corn, 578 00:33:45,231 --> 00:33:46,983 some yellow heirloom corn. 579 00:33:47,859 --> 00:33:50,445 We take some black corn. 580 00:33:51,696 --> 00:33:53,865 We take some red corn. 581 00:33:54,532 --> 00:33:58,119 Red corn is super creamy. 582 00:33:58,202 --> 00:34:01,122 It's thick, creamy, milky, buttery. 583 00:34:09,172 --> 00:34:12,008 [Producer] Do you go to another world while you're doing that? 584 00:34:13,926 --> 00:34:16,596 [Debora Fadul] We have an inside joke 585 00:34:18,222 --> 00:34:20,516 about me going back to my planet. 586 00:34:21,059 --> 00:34:22,310 [Narrator] It's cool, Debbie, 587 00:34:22,393 --> 00:34:25,188 we get it, we're crazy about corn too. 588 00:34:26,272 --> 00:34:28,191 While Debbie puts the finishing touches on 589 00:34:28,274 --> 00:34:29,692 tonight's menu, 590 00:34:31,194 --> 00:34:32,528 in Antigua, 591 00:34:34,030 --> 00:34:37,283 a major cultural moment is in the works. 592 00:34:40,161 --> 00:34:42,622 Semana Santa, or Holy Week. 593 00:34:43,122 --> 00:34:46,209 A time when old and new traditions intermingle to 594 00:34:46,292 --> 00:34:48,961 create a mind-blowing spectacle. 595 00:34:50,088 --> 00:34:52,131 Sure, it's a time of deep reflection and 596 00:34:52,215 --> 00:34:54,258 prayer in celebration of Easter, 597 00:34:55,468 --> 00:34:59,013 but it's also a cross-cultural extravaganza. 598 00:35:08,523 --> 00:35:10,942 [Gaby Perdomo] It's like Antigua completely 599 00:35:11,025 --> 00:35:13,027 transforms during Holy Week. 600 00:35:14,028 --> 00:35:15,780 It dresses in colors, 601 00:35:15,863 --> 00:35:20,952 and the sounds are enough to make you cry. 602 00:35:21,828 --> 00:35:26,332 It's an occasion where many different traditions converge. 603 00:35:27,291 --> 00:35:29,919 [Lucia Barrios] You will always find where the Mayan culture 604 00:35:30,002 --> 00:35:34,340 survived in the whole process of colonization in Antigua. 605 00:35:34,423 --> 00:35:36,801 You will see it in food, you will see it in architecture, 606 00:35:36,884 --> 00:35:38,970 you will see it in the processions. 607 00:35:41,347 --> 00:35:43,599 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] Catholicism was imposed on 608 00:35:43,683 --> 00:35:46,811 the indigenous people, and today they survive, 609 00:35:46,894 --> 00:35:48,354 side by side. 610 00:35:53,609 --> 00:35:58,322 [Narrator] And one sacred custom is truly a feast for the eyes. 611 00:36:07,540 --> 00:36:10,585 Alfombras, elaborate carpets made of plants and 612 00:36:10,668 --> 00:36:14,005 wood are laid out for the procession to walk on, 613 00:36:14,088 --> 00:36:16,966 so that the holy icons never touch the ground. 614 00:36:18,384 --> 00:36:22,180 Making an Alfombra takes a full day of painstaking work, 615 00:36:22,263 --> 00:36:26,100 and in Antigua, its go big or go home. 616 00:36:28,102 --> 00:36:31,022 Even if in a few mere moments these works of art 617 00:36:31,105 --> 00:36:33,065 will be completely destroyed. 618 00:36:36,027 --> 00:36:37,862 [Gaby Perdomo] Alfombras have the same 619 00:36:37,945 --> 00:36:40,656 ephemeral essence as tortillas. 620 00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:45,453 I feel a tortilla is like a handicraft 621 00:36:48,247 --> 00:36:52,001 that after a long time of being shaped by hand 622 00:36:52,084 --> 00:36:55,338 is ultimately grabbed and eaten. 623 00:36:56,130 --> 00:36:57,590 And then it's over. 624 00:37:01,510 --> 00:37:04,513 Tortillas are a gift 625 00:37:04,597 --> 00:37:08,434 that our Maya ancestors bestowed upon this region. 626 00:37:11,604 --> 00:37:15,691 It's as if tortillas were our identity 627 00:37:15,775 --> 00:37:18,527 or marked the roots from where we all sprang from. 628 00:37:19,487 --> 00:37:23,032 If we lose tortillas, we end up losing ourselves. 629 00:37:25,493 --> 00:37:27,662 [Narrator] Preserving corn, and tortillas, 630 00:37:27,745 --> 00:37:31,249 has a ripple effect that goes far beyond food, 631 00:37:31,332 --> 00:37:33,042 it's about sustaining culture and 632 00:37:33,125 --> 00:37:35,294 communities for generations to come. 633 00:37:36,170 --> 00:37:38,464 [Civilian] Lord, this day, Tzaqol B'itol, 634 00:37:38,547 --> 00:37:41,342 we thank you for a beautiful day. 635 00:37:41,926 --> 00:37:44,428 We that plow the holy land, 636 00:37:44,512 --> 00:37:47,473 we ask Thee to bless 637 00:37:47,556 --> 00:37:49,392 our maize, our corn. 638 00:37:50,101 --> 00:37:51,352 [Narrator] Up in the highlands, 639 00:37:51,435 --> 00:37:54,855 Doña Feliciana and her family are still in conversation with 640 00:37:54,939 --> 00:37:59,026 corn and the land it comes from a reciprocal bond 641 00:37:59,110 --> 00:38:02,363 that's survived every challenge thrown at it. 642 00:38:02,446 --> 00:38:04,115 [Doña Feliciana Yaqui] We have to ask God, 643 00:38:04,198 --> 00:38:06,033 He gives us everything. 644 00:38:06,117 --> 00:38:08,619 He gives us the water to grow the corn. 645 00:38:09,203 --> 00:38:12,623 If the corn doesn't grow, we won't have tortillas. 646 00:38:14,792 --> 00:38:16,836 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] Even if other civilizations may have 647 00:38:16,919 --> 00:38:19,714 wanted to throw out corn it didn't work, 648 00:38:19,797 --> 00:38:23,301 because the indigenous population in Guatemala 649 00:38:23,384 --> 00:38:25,886 is very, very large and very strong. 650 00:38:25,970 --> 00:38:28,973 And it is their means of, of sustenance. 651 00:38:30,016 --> 00:38:31,726 [Doña Feliciana Yaqui] Yes, well, when He gives us 652 00:38:31,809 --> 00:38:32,977 the corn, we rejoice. 653 00:38:33,436 --> 00:38:37,523 That's it, we rejoice, we jump. 654 00:38:38,232 --> 00:38:40,151 [Narrator] Who would have thought growing corn could be 655 00:38:40,234 --> 00:38:43,863 a kind of resistance, the will to keep culture alive 656 00:38:43,946 --> 00:38:46,949 when outside powers had other plans. 657 00:38:47,533 --> 00:38:49,452 [Ana Silvia Monzón] I think this is also 658 00:38:49,535 --> 00:38:51,412 like a cultural resistance, 659 00:38:51,912 --> 00:38:55,624 as part of this broader concept of food sovereignty. 660 00:38:55,708 --> 00:39:00,254 It is not only a food, 661 00:39:00,338 --> 00:39:01,964 but also a tradition, 662 00:39:02,715 --> 00:39:05,051 which will hopefully be kept for long. 663 00:39:06,010 --> 00:39:08,054 [Narrator] The resistance is going strong. 664 00:39:08,137 --> 00:39:11,515 And back in the capital city, a celebration of the tortilla 665 00:39:11,599 --> 00:39:13,976 is about to be unveiled. 666 00:39:16,270 --> 00:39:19,023 [♪ whimsical music plays] 667 00:39:19,106 --> 00:39:21,734 [Narrator] Tonight's dinner service at Diacá is 668 00:39:21,817 --> 00:39:24,695 invitation only, Debbie's welcomed a small group of 669 00:39:24,779 --> 00:39:29,408 local producers and chefs to dine alongside loyal customers. 670 00:39:29,950 --> 00:39:31,952 She's serving up an education into 671 00:39:32,036 --> 00:39:34,497 where the country's food comes from. 672 00:39:35,831 --> 00:39:37,124 [Debora Fadul] Everything we'll be doing today 673 00:39:37,208 --> 00:39:42,046 is focused on how we can use corn in a different way. 674 00:39:42,129 --> 00:39:45,132 For example, our cheese board is stocked 675 00:39:45,216 --> 00:39:49,053 with 100% local products, 676 00:39:49,136 --> 00:39:50,805 but what if we instead served tortillas 677 00:39:50,888 --> 00:39:52,640 alongside cheese boards? 678 00:39:52,723 --> 00:39:53,933 People go crazy for it. 679 00:39:56,435 --> 00:39:58,771 You realize how all these details 680 00:39:59,522 --> 00:40:01,899 only serve to highlight tortillas. 681 00:40:05,194 --> 00:40:07,863 Our menu is sorted by farmer. 682 00:40:07,947 --> 00:40:09,407 There's no real menu, so to speak. 683 00:40:10,533 --> 00:40:15,329 The menu only shows the ingredients and their producers. 684 00:40:16,080 --> 00:40:17,081 Period. 685 00:40:21,168 --> 00:40:23,712 Okay, first of all, I am incredibly grateful 686 00:40:23,796 --> 00:40:26,257 that you were able to come. 687 00:40:26,340 --> 00:40:28,968 It's so exciting having all of 688 00:40:29,051 --> 00:40:31,846 you incredible producers and chefs together. 689 00:40:32,430 --> 00:40:38,269 Celebrating producers just like we do in our own kitchens. 690 00:40:38,352 --> 00:40:41,689 To me, it's super important. 691 00:40:41,772 --> 00:40:45,734 I want this to be an inspiration for you to push even higher 692 00:40:45,818 --> 00:40:48,195 and to continue doing what you do. 693 00:40:48,279 --> 00:40:51,157 If we cooks can be a way to raise awareness, 694 00:40:51,240 --> 00:40:54,743 I'll never tire of doing it. 695 00:40:54,827 --> 00:40:56,745 I'm incredibly grateful, and I hope you enjoy it. 696 00:40:56,829 --> 00:40:58,622 [Debora Fadul] [in Spanish] Thank you! 697 00:41:02,793 --> 00:41:05,629 [speaking in Spanish] 698 00:41:05,713 --> 00:41:12,303 [speaking in Spanish] 699 00:41:13,095 --> 00:41:16,265 [Debora Fadul] We joke around with the chefs, like, 700 00:41:16,348 --> 00:41:20,019 "That customer left this place a completely different person." 701 00:41:20,686 --> 00:41:24,982 You begin noting this slight shift in perspective 702 00:41:25,065 --> 00:41:29,820 and how people begin to learn what eating "locally" means. 703 00:41:32,239 --> 00:41:36,702 Ultimately what we want is for other people to also do this. 704 00:41:37,286 --> 00:41:42,249 It's about giving a spot to those who rightly deserve it. 705 00:41:43,751 --> 00:41:45,669 [Narrator] In kitchens across the country, 706 00:41:45,753 --> 00:41:49,590 the women who make tortillas are starting to get their due. 707 00:41:51,217 --> 00:41:54,011 In a nation as complex as Guatemala, 708 00:41:54,094 --> 00:41:56,138 there are no easy solutions to excavating 709 00:41:56,222 --> 00:41:59,058 the past and preserving traditions. 710 00:42:00,226 --> 00:42:03,521 But honoring the skill that goes into the small but mighty 711 00:42:03,604 --> 00:42:05,564 tortilla is a start. 712 00:42:06,899 --> 00:42:09,610 [Debora Fadul] Ours is a history of pure strength. 713 00:42:12,488 --> 00:42:17,201 Our contribution, and my own personal contribution here, 714 00:42:17,868 --> 00:42:20,204 is to understand and appreciate this strength. 715 00:42:20,287 --> 00:42:24,250 Being part of this strength without selfishly seizing it, 716 00:42:24,333 --> 00:42:25,459 as it belongs to everyone. 717 00:42:26,877 --> 00:42:29,505 I start tearing up just talking about it! 718 00:42:31,173 --> 00:42:33,133 It's just beautiful. 719 00:42:33,842 --> 00:42:35,719 [Conny Hernandez] Guatemala is a very special 720 00:42:35,803 --> 00:42:37,638 and wonderful place. 721 00:42:37,721 --> 00:42:39,390 It has given me so much. 722 00:42:40,182 --> 00:42:42,142 [Lucia Barrios] I really do believe that this country 723 00:42:42,226 --> 00:42:43,894 has a lot of magic. 724 00:42:43,978 --> 00:42:47,064 And for me, food is a central place 725 00:42:47,147 --> 00:42:48,732 where you can discover that. 726 00:42:50,734 --> 00:42:52,027 [Bárbara Arroyo] There are many lessons we can 727 00:42:52,111 --> 00:42:53,445 learn from the past. 728 00:42:54,238 --> 00:42:58,284 All the various parts of our life are connected, 729 00:42:58,951 --> 00:43:02,037 nature is so important, especially for the Maya. 730 00:43:03,872 --> 00:43:07,793 Water, the soil. 731 00:43:08,502 --> 00:43:10,337 Every object has life. 732 00:43:13,048 --> 00:43:15,092 [Doña Feliciana Yaqui] Tortillas give life. 733 00:43:15,175 --> 00:43:16,927 If we don't eat, there is no life. 734 00:43:17,928 --> 00:43:22,057 [Gaby Perdomo] Tortillas can help us change the country. 735 00:43:23,142 --> 00:43:24,560 [Producer] And they're delicious? 736 00:43:24,643 --> 00:43:25,644 [laughs] 737 00:43:25,728 --> 00:43:26,979 [Gaby Perdomo] That, too! 738 00:43:27,771 --> 00:43:30,149 [Civilian] Bon appétit! 739 00:43:30,232 --> 00:43:32,484 [Amalia Moreno-Damgaard] The tortilla in my kitchen 740 00:43:32,985 --> 00:43:35,321 is treated with a high level of respect. 741 00:43:35,863 --> 00:43:39,450 People need to know how wonderful the country is. 742 00:43:39,533 --> 00:43:41,201 How wonderful the cuisine is. 743 00:43:41,285 --> 00:43:42,620 We need to share it with the world. 744 00:43:43,579 --> 00:43:45,372 The tortilla unites everyone. 745 00:43:46,582 --> 00:43:49,793 [Narrator] So next time you bite into a scrumptious steak taco, 746 00:43:50,294 --> 00:43:55,090 just remember that little round miracle you hold in your hands, 747 00:43:55,174 --> 00:43:57,051 has a history worth savoring. 748 00:43:58,218 --> 00:44:00,471 And with guardians like these, 749 00:44:01,513 --> 00:44:03,182 the future is bright. 57029

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