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I'm Alice Roberts,
and I'm on an adventure
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to look at the world's oldest
and greatest civilisation.
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I'm going to be travelling the
length and breadth of Egypt by train
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00:00:27,120 --> 00:00:29,200
to discover its ancient past.
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I want to understand how the tombs,
temples and pyramids came to be made,
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00:00:36,560 --> 00:00:38,136
and dig even deeper,
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to understand what life was like for
the ordinary people that made them.
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Along the way,
I'll be meeting archaeologists
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00:00:46,080 --> 00:00:50,056
who are still working to uncover
the story of ancient Egypt.
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00:00:50,080 --> 00:00:52,056
I'll be looking at
some familiar sites,
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00:00:52,080 --> 00:00:55,040
but also learning about
brand-new discoveries.
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00:00:58,440 --> 00:01:01,576
In the first part of my journey,
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00:01:01,600 --> 00:01:04,096
I'll be looking at how
Egypt was transformed
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00:01:04,120 --> 00:01:05,760
under the Greeks and Romans.
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Look at this!
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And this one here, as you can see...
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Isn't it beautiful?
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Look at those colours!
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I learn about the slave soldier
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00:01:15,960 --> 00:01:18,040
who created the most beautiful
fort...
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00:01:19,240 --> 00:01:22,056
So we're looking out here from
the battlements, over the harbour,
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00:01:22,080 --> 00:01:24,896
and you suddenly realise
what a prime position
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this citadel is in.
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..and I meet the archaeologist
who believes she can solve
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one of the biggest mysteries
in the world -
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00:01:31,760 --> 00:01:33,936
finding the tomb of Cleopatra.
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Welcome to the underworld.
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Just incredible that it's only
emerged in the last few years.
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..as I travel ancient Egypt by train.
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Ah, coffee!
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Is this right?
Coffee?
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Coffee.
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I think my train's coming soon.
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This is good coffee.
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It's thicker than the coffee
I have at home,
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sweeter than the coffee
I have at home,
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but it's just the ticket today.
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It's my first time here,
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00:02:14,800 --> 00:02:17,496
and it's nice to see that
train stations around the world
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are more or less the same,
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from coffee vendors,
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to reflecting the hustle and bustle
of a nation's daily life.
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00:02:41,400 --> 00:02:44,176
I have always dreamt
of coming to Egypt,
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especially after reading
so much about it since childhood.
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Until now, I've only encountered
Egypt in books,
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like Amelia Edwards'
journey up the Nile,
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00:02:56,280 --> 00:02:57,936
and in museums,
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00:02:57,960 --> 00:03:00,496
but now I'm here,
to see it for myself,
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00:03:00,520 --> 00:03:06,456
to immerse myself in the ancient
history and culture of this country.
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00:03:06,480 --> 00:03:09,936
I'm going to see the Sphinx,
the pyramids,
51
00:03:09,960 --> 00:03:12,416
the temple at Karnak, of course,
52
00:03:12,440 --> 00:03:17,256
but I'm also going off the beaten
track to find new discoveries
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00:03:17,280 --> 00:03:21,256
and talk to the people who are
still uncovering the secrets
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00:03:21,280 --> 00:03:22,416
of ancient Egypt.
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00:03:22,440 --> 00:03:26,920
And I'm travelling across
this epic country by train.
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Over 4,000 miles of railways
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stretch the full length of Egypt,
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mostly following the Nile.
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00:03:40,480 --> 00:03:43,496
I'm starting by travelling
to Alexandria,
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from the airport in Cairo,
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a journey of 140 miles
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00:03:47,680 --> 00:03:49,680
towards the Mediterranean coast.
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Alexandria is linked to some
of the most famous names
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from our history books -
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00:04:18,520 --> 00:04:22,480
Alexander the Great, Mark Antony
and Cleopatra.
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00:04:23,920 --> 00:04:27,696
For a time, it was the world's
biggest and most important city.
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With its university, and the
Great Library of Alexandria,
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it was a centre of learning,
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00:04:32,360 --> 00:04:35,976
and it also had one of the
Seven Wonders of the Ancient World,
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the Lighthouse of Alexandria.
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The library and the lighthouse
are long gone,
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both lost to time.
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And I'm finally here in Alexandria,
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which is the perfect place to begin.
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It is the gateway into Egypt,
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an immense, famous port city,
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founded by Alexander the Great,
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bearing his name
in the 4th century BCE,
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and it became the capital of Egypt.
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Today, it's absolutely vast.
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It's home to 5.5 million people,
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it's incredibly busy.
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It stretches along 25 miles
of the northern Egyptian coastline.
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But I'm here to find out
all about ancient Alexandria.
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The seafront promenade,
known here as the Corniche,
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00:05:31,240 --> 00:05:32,976
is where locals come to relax,
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00:05:33,000 --> 00:05:36,080
and simply to enjoy the views
of their beautiful city.
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What better way to take in the sights
and sounds of a place
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that's completely new to me
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than by exploring on foot?
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00:05:58,480 --> 00:06:01,736
You get a feel for the history
of Alexandria, just walking around.
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00:06:01,760 --> 00:06:03,856
There's some fantastic architecture.
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00:06:03,880 --> 00:06:05,336
You get really modern buildings
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rubbing shoulders with edifices
like this from a century or two ago,
95
00:06:10,720 --> 00:06:12,016
and then here,
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we've got the
Morsi Abu al-Abbas mosque,
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absolutely stunning,
dating back to the 14th century.
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00:06:24,360 --> 00:06:26,616
There are two separate mosques here,
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one for women...
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..and a larger one, for men.
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But it seems I'm allowed to at least
LOOK inside the men's mosque.
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Head scarf on.
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Shoes off.
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Shoes here.
Thank you.
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A stone's throw away
from the seafront,
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the mosque is
a relatively recent addition,
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being only 700 years old.
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Its doors and window frames
are made from teak and walnut.
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00:06:59,640 --> 00:07:03,056
The decorated ceiling contains
an octagonal skylight,
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00:07:03,080 --> 00:07:04,360
called a Shokhsheikha.
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00:07:09,960 --> 00:07:13,336
This mosque is a classic example
of Islamic design,
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which flourished in Egypt,
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00:07:15,040 --> 00:07:18,200
after the Muslim conquest
of the 7th century.
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A much later addition to Alexandria
is the tram.
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00:07:36,520 --> 00:07:38,616
With the roads heaving with traffic,
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the tram is how many locals
prefer to travel...
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..especially the city's
vast population of students.
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There are 20 lines and 140 stops
crammed into the city centre...
119
00:08:02,600 --> 00:08:06,736
..and my first stop is around
the corner from a special place,
120
00:08:06,760 --> 00:08:08,280
called Kom el-Dikka.
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Kom el-Dikka is the biggest
and most spectacular
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archaeological site in Alexandria.
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Nice to meet you.
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The director of the site
is Mahmoud Abd El Rahman.
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00:08:23,880 --> 00:08:24,857
Good morning.
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00:08:24,881 --> 00:08:27,656
So this excavation has been going
on since the 1960s?
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00:08:27,680 --> 00:08:29,416
From 1960 until now.
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Every year?
Every year.
129
00:08:34,120 --> 00:08:36,456
It was found by chance in the 1960s,
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00:08:36,480 --> 00:08:40,856
when city developers planned to build
new apartment blocks.
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00:08:40,880 --> 00:08:44,536
But a couple of thousand years
earlier, in Roman Alexandria,
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00:08:44,560 --> 00:08:47,520
people were coming here
for learning and leisure.
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I'm keen to find out more about
what Egyptian life was like
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00:08:53,600 --> 00:08:56,336
under the rule of the Romans,
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00:08:56,360 --> 00:08:58,800
starting with what looks
like a small theatre.
136
00:09:00,640 --> 00:09:02,616
This seems like quite
a narrow theatre.
137
00:09:02,640 --> 00:09:04,616
Yes, a small one.
Yeah.
138
00:09:04,640 --> 00:09:06,776
Yes. Actually, it's not a theatre.
139
00:09:06,800 --> 00:09:07,976
Actually, it was odeum,
140
00:09:08,000 --> 00:09:09,936
for listening for the music
in the ancient time.
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00:09:09,960 --> 00:09:10,937
OK.
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00:09:10,961 --> 00:09:13,216
And all of this
covered with a huge bulb,
143
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covering the place here.
144
00:09:14,320 --> 00:09:16,256
A dome?
Yes, a huge dome.
145
00:09:16,280 --> 00:09:18,136
Yeah.
For the echo sound,
146
00:09:18,160 --> 00:09:21,256
so, collecting the sound
and reflecting for the people.
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00:09:21,280 --> 00:09:23,776
And over 2,000 years later,
148
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I can experience
the same acoustic effect
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as the musicians
of Roman Alexandria.
150
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So, echo sound,
and you can try it here.
151
00:09:31,360 --> 00:09:32,416
OK.
152
00:09:32,440 --> 00:09:34,056
So I'm going to stand on this spot...
153
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..and then speak to the room.
154
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That's extraordinary.
Yes.
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I can hear my voice
echoing back to me.
156
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Yes.
That's so peculiar, isn't it?
157
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My voice changes completely.
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I'm... I'm hearing myself
very, very differently now.
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I feel like I'm in a...
in a bubble.
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In an echo chamber, in fact.
Yes.
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And then, presumably, my voice
is carrying up to the highest seats
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up there as well.
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I'd like to give lectures
in a place like this.
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This would be wonderful.
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00:10:05,080 --> 00:10:06,536
I'm in Alexandria,
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at a site that was earmarked
for some new apartments,
167
00:10:09,720 --> 00:10:13,256
but then they discovered
spectacular Roman remains,
168
00:10:13,280 --> 00:10:15,976
and rather than being turned into
apartment blocks,
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the site has become
an open-air museum.
170
00:10:18,880 --> 00:10:21,016
There's an odeon for live music,
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00:10:21,040 --> 00:10:24,616
and just alongside it, what Mahmud,
the site director, believes
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was part of the famous
University of Alexandria itself.
173
00:10:28,880 --> 00:10:30,536
Also, we have this university,
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00:10:30,560 --> 00:10:33,296
magnificent, 22 classrooms.
175
00:10:33,320 --> 00:10:34,616
In the ancient time,
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it's a place for the professor
and a place for the audience.
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Can you and I walk on there?
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We can walk in there.
179
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Now, if I could just transport
myself back in time
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by around 2,000 years...
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OK.
I'm going to be the professor.
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I would be here?
Yes, and the students coming here.
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Yeah.
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So here I am,
Professor Alice Roberts...
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Yes.
..talking...
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To the students.
..to my Byzantine students.
187
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Yes, for philosophy, maybe,
or chemistry or something like this.
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Lecturing them, presumably, in Greek?
That was the scholarly language.
189
00:11:02,120 --> 00:11:03,880
In, uh, with Late Greek.
190
00:11:12,040 --> 00:11:15,056
Now we can going down,
under the ground.
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It's magnificent architecture.
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In the ancient time,
193
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we cannot see what's happening
under the ground
194
00:11:20,800 --> 00:11:22,536
for the slaves and the people.
195
00:11:22,560 --> 00:11:25,856
Yeah.
But it's a hypocaust system.
196
00:11:25,880 --> 00:11:29,376
The Romans also brought underfloor
heating to Egypt,
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a system called a hypocaust,
198
00:11:31,520 --> 00:11:33,936
where slaves,
working beneath street level,
199
00:11:33,960 --> 00:11:37,296
would stoke furnaces
to heat the bath house above.
200
00:11:37,320 --> 00:11:40,016
Here we are,
besides the hypocaust system,
201
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and you can see the traces
of fire inside it.
202
00:11:42,760 --> 00:11:43,896
Yeah.
203
00:11:43,920 --> 00:11:45,456
OK, it was closed here,
204
00:11:45,480 --> 00:11:47,256
and they just put the fuel inside
here...
205
00:11:47,280 --> 00:11:48,496
Yeah, yeah.
206
00:11:48,520 --> 00:11:51,136
..and the huge fire inside,
and temperature.
207
00:11:51,160 --> 00:11:53,056
If you can imagine,
if you're walking on the marble,
208
00:11:53,080 --> 00:11:54,336
it will be warm.
Yeah.
209
00:11:54,360 --> 00:11:55,337
And sometimes here.
210
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It's fantastic.
Underfloor heating, isn't it?
211
00:11:57,120 --> 00:11:58,216
You will feel not...
212
00:11:58,240 --> 00:12:00,280
You know, it's not cold
in Egypt in this time.
213
00:12:02,600 --> 00:12:06,056
Alongside the odeon, university
and bath house,
214
00:12:06,080 --> 00:12:08,240
there were also
private dwellings here.
215
00:12:11,280 --> 00:12:14,976
One of these homes is known
as the Villa of the Birds,
216
00:12:15,000 --> 00:12:19,240
and it contains a stunning example
of Roman-Egyptian style.
217
00:12:22,960 --> 00:12:24,736
Now we're getting to
the Villa of the Birds.
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00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:26,616
This is Roman villa,
219
00:12:26,640 --> 00:12:28,776
as we can see,
with the mosaic floor.
220
00:12:28,800 --> 00:12:30,496
Oh, wow.
221
00:12:30,520 --> 00:12:33,056
It's something well preserved.
222
00:12:33,080 --> 00:12:34,216
Isn't that gorgeous?
223
00:12:34,240 --> 00:12:35,256
And a unique one,
224
00:12:35,280 --> 00:12:38,096
because we didn't have any
Roman villa, something like this.
225
00:12:38,120 --> 00:12:40,216
Yeah.
Made out of pieces of marble.
226
00:12:40,240 --> 00:12:41,696
But look at this!
227
00:12:41,720 --> 00:12:43,576
And this one here, as you can see,
228
00:12:43,600 --> 00:12:45,856
that's why we call this
Villa of the Birds.
229
00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:47,176
Isn't it beautiful?
230
00:12:47,200 --> 00:12:48,416
Look at those colours!
231
00:12:48,440 --> 00:12:51,936
I mean, they're so bright and clear.
232
00:12:51,960 --> 00:12:55,416
Also, we're making some
restoration every year for it.
233
00:12:55,440 --> 00:12:57,296
Have you repaired those mosaics?
234
00:12:57,320 --> 00:13:00,496
Are those... are any of those tesserae
NEW tesserae?
235
00:13:00,520 --> 00:13:02,616
No, it's an ancient one,
236
00:13:02,640 --> 00:13:04,816
and we found it in this condition,
237
00:13:04,840 --> 00:13:09,896
because we found a huge ash
over it, over the mosaic directly,
238
00:13:09,920 --> 00:13:13,456
for 50 centimetres, because of
a huge fire in the ancient time,
239
00:13:13,480 --> 00:13:15,376
preserving the mosaic to
in this condition.
240
00:13:15,400 --> 00:13:19,056
Look at those colours, I mean,
and recognisable species of birds.
241
00:13:19,080 --> 00:13:20,416
So that's a duck.
Yes, duck.
242
00:13:20,440 --> 00:13:22,176
Yes, and see the peacock?
243
00:13:22,200 --> 00:13:23,296
This is a peacock.
Yes.
244
00:13:23,320 --> 00:13:24,576
I mean, look at the colours there.
Yes.
245
00:13:24,600 --> 00:13:26,296
That's absolutely gorgeous.
246
00:13:26,320 --> 00:13:27,936
They're using different materials,
247
00:13:27,960 --> 00:13:30,216
glass and also marble.
248
00:13:30,240 --> 00:13:32,336
What's this bird here?
That almost looks like a parakeet.
249
00:13:32,360 --> 00:13:34,496
This is parrot, yes,
this one is parrot.
250
00:13:34,520 --> 00:13:36,096
Yeah.
Yes.
251
00:13:36,120 --> 00:13:38,696
Something else we have here,
252
00:13:38,720 --> 00:13:40,760
another mosaic, showing panther.
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00:13:41,760 --> 00:13:44,576
Nowadays, the panther,
it disappeared from Egypt.
254
00:13:44,600 --> 00:13:46,736
So we've got this classic
Roman design...
255
00:13:46,760 --> 00:13:47,936
Yes.
..this mosaic...
256
00:13:47,960 --> 00:13:50,336
Typical Alexandria.
..but showing... showing Egyptian...
257
00:13:50,360 --> 00:13:52,840
Yes, showing the Egyptian...
..Egyptian wildlife, yeah.
258
00:13:55,360 --> 00:13:58,616
A mystery that has confounded
archaeologists in Egypt
259
00:13:58,640 --> 00:14:02,616
is the location of
Alexander the Great's tomb.
260
00:14:02,640 --> 00:14:05,856
It was visited by Julius Caesar
and Cleopatra,
261
00:14:05,880 --> 00:14:09,816
but today its precise whereabouts
remain unknown,
262
00:14:09,840 --> 00:14:12,456
although Mahmoud has his theory.
263
00:14:12,480 --> 00:14:16,016
And, Mahmoud, what about
the tomb of Alexander the Great?
264
00:14:16,040 --> 00:14:17,216
Tomb of Alexander...
265
00:14:17,240 --> 00:14:18,816
Where do you think it is?
266
00:14:18,840 --> 00:14:21,216
It's supposed to be in the north
of this direction,
267
00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:24,096
because it was in the Soma Square,
268
00:14:24,120 --> 00:14:26,216
and Soma Square
is lying in the north,
269
00:14:26,240 --> 00:14:28,016
direct in the north of this site,
270
00:14:28,040 --> 00:14:30,056
500 metres distance away.
271
00:14:30,080 --> 00:14:31,576
Oh, really close to where we are.
272
00:14:31,600 --> 00:14:34,416
And we can't remove the building
to continue the excavation
273
00:14:34,440 --> 00:14:35,936
inside the site.
Yeah.
274
00:14:35,960 --> 00:14:37,696
It's here somewhere.
275
00:14:37,720 --> 00:14:40,416
Hidden, for somebody will come to,
you know,
276
00:14:40,440 --> 00:14:42,736
to discover it.
Yeah, yeah.
277
00:14:42,760 --> 00:14:43,880
Let's wait and see.
278
00:14:54,480 --> 00:14:59,336
Alexandria's history captures
that later story of ancient Egypt,
279
00:14:59,360 --> 00:15:02,280
when the country was under Greek,
then Roman, rule.
280
00:15:04,600 --> 00:15:07,416
We see different empires,
civilisations
281
00:15:07,440 --> 00:15:09,000
and cultures meeting here.
282
00:15:17,000 --> 00:15:19,496
This column,
known as Pompey's Pillar,
283
00:15:19,520 --> 00:15:23,176
though actually dedicated
to the Roman Emperor Diocletian,
284
00:15:23,200 --> 00:15:26,976
was erected next to
an ancient Greek temple.
285
00:15:27,000 --> 00:15:29,936
The Romans liked to make their mark.
286
00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:33,296
This site is also the only
real remaining connection
287
00:15:33,320 --> 00:15:36,496
to the Great Library of Alexandria.
288
00:15:36,520 --> 00:15:39,816
It contains an annex,
known as the Daughter's Library,
289
00:15:39,840 --> 00:15:44,280
used as an additional storage space
for the vast collection of texts.
290
00:15:58,040 --> 00:16:01,656
As the first day of my adventures
in Egypt comes to a close,
291
00:16:01,680 --> 00:16:06,176
I'm keen to find out more about
the beautiful fort on the headland.
292
00:16:06,200 --> 00:16:09,656
It can be seen from every part
of Alexandria's coastline,
293
00:16:09,680 --> 00:16:12,400
as it juts out
into the Mediterranean Sea.
294
00:16:14,080 --> 00:16:18,016
It was the location
of the Lighthouse of Alexandria,
295
00:16:18,040 --> 00:16:20,160
one of the Seven Wonders
of the World.
296
00:16:21,400 --> 00:16:24,296
The lighthouse stood
for around a thousand years
297
00:16:24,320 --> 00:16:27,000
and was thought to be
the tallest building in the world.
298
00:16:28,400 --> 00:16:31,216
Only a few ancient descriptions
survive,
299
00:16:31,240 --> 00:16:33,536
and it seems that it was rebuilt
several times,
300
00:16:33,560 --> 00:16:36,256
after damage from earthquakes.
301
00:16:36,280 --> 00:16:39,840
But by the 14th century,
it had fallen into ruins.
302
00:16:43,560 --> 00:16:47,376
What stands there now is
a 15th-century fortress
303
00:16:47,400 --> 00:16:50,216
known as the Citadel of Qaitbay.
304
00:16:50,240 --> 00:16:52,176
Qaitbay is the man who built it,
305
00:16:52,200 --> 00:16:56,560
and he started life as
a slave soldier known as a Mamluk.
306
00:17:00,400 --> 00:17:01,416
Hello.
307
00:17:01,440 --> 00:17:04,016
Salaam alaikum.
Wa-alaikum-salaam.
308
00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:07,896
Archaeologist Nermine Sami, who's
lived in Alexandria all her life,
309
00:17:07,920 --> 00:17:10,560
is going to tell me more
about this magical place.
310
00:17:11,680 --> 00:17:13,896
Wow. Look at that beautiful door.
311
00:17:13,920 --> 00:17:16,976
And also, connection is
with the first floor.
312
00:17:17,000 --> 00:17:19,096
Oh, it's impressive.
313
00:17:19,120 --> 00:17:21,136
This is such a beautiful place.
Tell me about it.
314
00:17:21,160 --> 00:17:24,336
It was named after the sultan
who built it, isn't it?
315
00:17:24,360 --> 00:17:26,816
Qaitbay was one of the Mamluks,
316
00:17:26,840 --> 00:17:30,496
who ruled Egypt for 28 years.
317
00:17:30,520 --> 00:17:33,256
So this is the Mamluks, they were
slaves that were brought here?
318
00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:35,816
A soldier of slave origin.
319
00:17:35,840 --> 00:17:37,576
So how does he end up being sultan?
320
00:17:37,600 --> 00:17:39,696
How does he make that transformation?
321
00:17:39,720 --> 00:17:44,736
Yes. How he became a sultan,
because he showed many of bravery
322
00:17:44,760 --> 00:17:47,816
and intelligence to become a sultan.
Yeah, yeah.
323
00:17:47,840 --> 00:17:50,776
He was approved by all the soldiers
324
00:17:50,800 --> 00:17:54,336
and he was chosen to be
a sultan of Egypt.
325
00:17:54,360 --> 00:17:55,337
Incredible.
326
00:17:55,361 --> 00:17:56,896
Yes, it is.
Yeah.
327
00:17:56,920 --> 00:18:00,296
So Qaitbay comes here
and builds this fortress
328
00:18:00,320 --> 00:18:03,896
on what, presumably, is the site of
the original lighthouse?
329
00:18:03,920 --> 00:18:08,016
Actually, the lighthouse site
was in a distance of 20 meters.
330
00:18:08,040 --> 00:18:09,736
So pretty close.
Pretty close.
331
00:18:09,760 --> 00:18:10,776
Yeah.
332
00:18:10,800 --> 00:18:14,096
OK, and we still see some traces
of lighthouse.
333
00:18:14,120 --> 00:18:18,176
Stone blocks were used in
construction of internal parts
334
00:18:18,200 --> 00:18:20,016
of this fortress.
335
00:18:20,040 --> 00:18:22,456
So the lighthouse has gone...
Gone.
336
00:18:22,480 --> 00:18:26,256
..but Qaitbay spots this as being the
ideal place to put this fortress.
337
00:18:26,280 --> 00:18:29,216
Ideal place to protect the borders
of Alexandria by the sea,
338
00:18:29,240 --> 00:18:33,136
because there was a huge attack
will come by the Ottomans.
339
00:18:33,160 --> 00:18:36,456
So Sultan Qaitbay is worried
about the Ottoman Empire.
340
00:18:36,480 --> 00:18:39,816
This is part of his defences
against the Ottomans.
341
00:18:39,840 --> 00:18:42,376
But eventually Egypt does
fall to that empire.
342
00:18:42,400 --> 00:18:43,496
Yes.
343
00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:46,656
He was afraid of Ottoman attacks
344
00:18:46,680 --> 00:18:48,696
and he had to fortify
the whole country,
345
00:18:48,720 --> 00:18:52,736
not just Alexandria, but Alexandria
was always the gate
346
00:18:52,760 --> 00:18:54,576
to conquer Egypt.
347
00:18:54,600 --> 00:18:57,336
Yeah. I mean, what do you think
about Qaitbay as a man?
348
00:18:57,360 --> 00:18:58,816
It's an extraordinary story.
349
00:18:58,840 --> 00:19:02,816
He begins life as this slave soldier,
350
00:19:02,840 --> 00:19:04,416
and ends up being a sultan.
351
00:19:04,440 --> 00:19:05,456
Yes.
352
00:19:05,480 --> 00:19:07,536
I think he was different,
353
00:19:07,560 --> 00:19:08,696
unusual character.
354
00:19:08,720 --> 00:19:11,176
He was not just a militant,
or soldier man,
355
00:19:11,200 --> 00:19:14,296
he was fond of foundation,
and construction,
356
00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:18,416
and the project of opening this
country to all people to come.
357
00:19:18,440 --> 00:19:21,216
So he was interested in that kind
of cosmopolitan side, which you see,
358
00:19:21,240 --> 00:19:23,216
I mean, you still see today
in Alexandria.
359
00:19:23,240 --> 00:19:26,816
Yes, we still have the same concept
and the idea and the spirit
360
00:19:26,840 --> 00:19:28,136
of welcoming others.
361
00:19:28,160 --> 00:19:31,656
Yeah. And that goes, I mean, that
goes right back to the foundation
362
00:19:31,680 --> 00:19:32,856
of Alexandria, as well,
363
00:19:32,880 --> 00:19:37,176
and the idea of this place
is a famous, famous seat of learning,
364
00:19:37,200 --> 00:19:40,096
possibly, you know, possibly
the most famous seat of learning
365
00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:41,856
in the ancient world, at one time.
366
00:19:41,880 --> 00:19:44,096
They cared about learning
and education.
367
00:19:44,120 --> 00:19:47,736
I think that's what led
this city to be so special
368
00:19:47,760 --> 00:19:49,056
than any other cities.
369
00:19:49,080 --> 00:19:50,080
Yeah.
370
00:19:55,960 --> 00:19:58,736
So we're looking out here from
the battlements, over the harbour,
371
00:19:58,760 --> 00:20:03,696
and you suddenly realise what
a prime position this citadel is in
372
00:20:03,720 --> 00:20:05,336
to defend this harbour.
373
00:20:05,360 --> 00:20:08,816
In that time, actually,
the fortifications of Mamluks
374
00:20:08,840 --> 00:20:09,817
were not enough,
375
00:20:09,841 --> 00:20:14,136
because they were still
using the old techniques.
376
00:20:14,160 --> 00:20:17,616
But when Ottomans came,
the fortress couldn't resist.
377
00:20:17,640 --> 00:20:20,096
The rising power of Ottomans
was very super,
378
00:20:20,120 --> 00:20:22,640
comparing to the power of Mamluks.
379
00:20:25,040 --> 00:20:27,216
It's so different from
the southern battlements,
380
00:20:27,240 --> 00:20:31,136
where we're looking over that
safe harbour, lovely, calm water,
381
00:20:31,160 --> 00:20:33,616
and then you look out
from the northern side,
382
00:20:33,640 --> 00:20:36,656
and you've got the crashing waves
of the Mediterranean.
383
00:20:36,680 --> 00:20:40,096
It's an image of contrast, actually,
384
00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:42,816
and it makes you love the city,
385
00:20:42,840 --> 00:20:45,416
and also to be afraid
to be enemy to it.
386
00:20:45,440 --> 00:20:46,536
Yes.
Yes.
387
00:20:46,560 --> 00:20:47,936
So you have to be careful.
388
00:20:47,960 --> 00:20:49,736
If you are an enemy,
you are not welcome.
389
00:20:49,760 --> 00:20:51,400
If you are a friend,
you are welcome.
390
00:20:56,120 --> 00:21:00,216
Alexandria today reflects
its cosmopolitan history,
391
00:21:00,240 --> 00:21:03,816
and its continuing reputation
as a seat of learning,
392
00:21:03,840 --> 00:21:06,536
where different cultures coexist.
393
00:21:06,560 --> 00:21:11,896
A beautiful and defiant city
on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea.
394
00:21:11,920 --> 00:21:15,536
At this time of the day,
as the sun sets,
395
00:21:15,560 --> 00:21:20,016
and you see a few fishermen out here
just on the quay side,
396
00:21:20,040 --> 00:21:23,520
it's easy to think yourself
back to ancient Alexandria.
397
00:21:43,800 --> 00:21:47,616
It's the start of a new day
for my adventures in Egypt.
398
00:21:47,640 --> 00:21:49,296
I'm in Alexandria,
399
00:21:49,320 --> 00:21:52,256
heading to meet a woman
on a mission to track down
400
00:21:52,280 --> 00:21:54,800
one of Egypt's most famous names.
401
00:22:08,440 --> 00:22:10,856
Along the coast, west of Alexandria,
402
00:22:10,880 --> 00:22:12,616
a few stops down the line,
403
00:22:12,640 --> 00:22:14,776
is an archaeological site
404
00:22:14,800 --> 00:22:18,816
that has the Egyptologists divided.
405
00:22:18,840 --> 00:22:21,936
I'm off to meet someone
who is convinced that she is close
406
00:22:21,960 --> 00:22:24,880
to finding the elusive tomb
of Cleopatra.
407
00:22:30,840 --> 00:22:33,176
Just 30 miles out of the city,
408
00:22:33,200 --> 00:22:36,016
and I find myself
in the Egyptian countryside,
409
00:22:36,040 --> 00:22:40,016
where stations are little more than
a concrete platform.
410
00:22:40,040 --> 00:22:43,256
This is also where archaeologists
have been excavating
411
00:22:43,280 --> 00:22:47,400
a 2,000 acre site,
called Taposiris Magna...
412
00:22:49,120 --> 00:22:51,416
..that has a lighthouse,
413
00:22:51,440 --> 00:22:53,016
an ancient temple,
414
00:22:53,040 --> 00:22:55,456
and a more recent discovery -
415
00:22:55,480 --> 00:23:00,200
a system of tunnels that go out
and beneath the Mediterranean Sea.
416
00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:05,736
Kathleen Martinez, a former lawyer
from the Dominican Republic,
417
00:23:05,760 --> 00:23:09,456
has been working here
for almost 15 years.
418
00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:11,936
Kathleen, this is just incredible.
419
00:23:11,960 --> 00:23:13,816
It's... it's huge.
420
00:23:13,840 --> 00:23:17,496
And you realised that there was
much more to find,
421
00:23:17,520 --> 00:23:19,656
still buried under the ground here.
422
00:23:19,680 --> 00:23:24,936
Yes. I want to prove that the temple
was a functioning temple
423
00:23:24,960 --> 00:23:26,976
that functioned for many centuries.
424
00:23:27,000 --> 00:23:30,936
And when you arrived here,
what did it look like, at that point?
425
00:23:30,960 --> 00:23:33,056
It was completely covered with sand.
426
00:23:33,080 --> 00:23:35,576
So pretty much the level
that we're standing on here,
427
00:23:35,600 --> 00:23:37,016
right across the site?
428
00:23:37,040 --> 00:23:39,320
So this is all your excavations?
Yes.
429
00:23:40,760 --> 00:23:43,296
So you've obviously done quite a bit
of reconstruction here.
430
00:23:43,320 --> 00:23:45,176
I can see this is all new mortar.
431
00:23:45,200 --> 00:23:46,896
Yes.
432
00:23:46,920 --> 00:23:47,976
So these plinths are strange,
433
00:23:48,000 --> 00:23:50,216
'cause they've got
little steps leading up.
434
00:23:50,240 --> 00:23:52,936
So what do you think it's for?
They put offering here.
435
00:23:52,960 --> 00:23:54,416
Yeah.
Here to the gods.
436
00:23:54,440 --> 00:23:55,736
Right.
437
00:23:55,760 --> 00:23:57,656
You think this is the original
entrance here?
438
00:23:57,680 --> 00:24:01,616
So this would have been the way that
worshippers came into the temple?
439
00:24:01,640 --> 00:24:02,656
Yes.
Yeah.
440
00:24:02,680 --> 00:24:05,336
This for the pharaohs
to come into the temple,
441
00:24:05,360 --> 00:24:07,976
because they have their own
entrance, it's in the north.
442
00:24:08,000 --> 00:24:09,536
Yeah.
443
00:24:09,560 --> 00:24:12,096
In terms of the longevity
of this temple,
444
00:24:12,120 --> 00:24:14,896
when did it go out of use?
Do you know that?
445
00:24:14,920 --> 00:24:16,336
We have archaeological evidence
446
00:24:16,360 --> 00:24:18,776
that this functioned
until the 5th century.
447
00:24:18,800 --> 00:24:20,176
So how did you prove it, then?
448
00:24:20,200 --> 00:24:21,456
You presumably, as you dug, you've...
449
00:24:21,480 --> 00:24:23,496
With archaeological evidence.
You've got dating evidence?
450
00:24:23,520 --> 00:24:27,416
Yes, dating with ceramics
that we discovered,
451
00:24:27,440 --> 00:24:29,096
the tombs,
452
00:24:29,120 --> 00:24:34,856
uh, who are the ones who are buried
in these catacombs.
453
00:24:34,880 --> 00:24:35,896
Yeah.
454
00:24:35,920 --> 00:24:39,360
There are people that lived
in the time of Queen Cleopatra.
455
00:24:41,440 --> 00:24:46,256
While other archaeologists believe
Cleopatra was buried in Alexandria,
456
00:24:46,280 --> 00:24:49,976
Kathleen's own research
has led her to look here.
457
00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:51,896
With a background as a lawyer,
458
00:24:51,920 --> 00:24:55,296
she's made a case
based on circumstantial evidence.
459
00:24:55,320 --> 00:24:58,016
Archaeology is a science.
This is obviously more than a hunch.
460
00:24:58,040 --> 00:25:01,576
This is all about your
very careful research.
461
00:25:01,600 --> 00:25:05,016
What was it that made you think
that this was a really good candidate
462
00:25:05,040 --> 00:25:06,256
for Cleopatra's burial?
463
00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:09,616
Because I studied Cleopatra's death
464
00:25:09,640 --> 00:25:11,216
for more than five years.
465
00:25:11,240 --> 00:25:14,336
Only the last days of her life.
Yeah.
466
00:25:14,360 --> 00:25:18,096
And then I followed her
as a criminal lawyer,
467
00:25:18,120 --> 00:25:22,416
and I wanted to put myself
in her shoes.
468
00:25:22,440 --> 00:25:24,856
What would I do in my last days
469
00:25:24,880 --> 00:25:27,936
if I am the last queen of Egypt?
470
00:25:27,960 --> 00:25:31,976
And the Romans want to take me
to be paraded in Rome,
471
00:25:32,000 --> 00:25:34,776
because the Romans hated her
too much.
472
00:25:34,800 --> 00:25:37,536
She had to make sure that her final
resting place was somewhere
473
00:25:37,560 --> 00:25:38,816
the Romans wouldn't find her?
474
00:25:38,840 --> 00:25:42,096
Exactly. That's why it couldn't be
Alexandria city,
475
00:25:42,120 --> 00:25:46,376
it couldn't be there, because it was
under the control of the Romans.
476
00:25:46,400 --> 00:25:48,136
We know she committed suicide,
477
00:25:48,160 --> 00:25:50,776
and she chose the place
that she wanted to be buried,
478
00:25:50,800 --> 00:25:55,096
and I believe that this temple
reunites all the conditions.
479
00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:58,496
The temple itself,
the religious centre,
480
00:25:58,520 --> 00:26:01,056
the architecture is magnificent.
Mm, it's incredible.
481
00:26:01,080 --> 00:26:04,136
And we know everything she did,
it was a grandeur.
482
00:26:04,160 --> 00:26:07,336
She did everything in a big scale.
483
00:26:07,360 --> 00:26:10,200
Second, it was a Greek temple.
484
00:26:14,760 --> 00:26:18,056
You've also found this crucial
piece of evidence that says
485
00:26:18,080 --> 00:26:21,256
who this temple is for,
who it's dedicated to.
486
00:26:21,280 --> 00:26:24,176
Yes, it was one of the greatest
days of my life.
487
00:26:24,200 --> 00:26:25,216
Yeah.
488
00:26:25,240 --> 00:26:28,976
I was able to prove,
when I saw the foundation plates,
489
00:26:29,000 --> 00:26:32,560
because it already links
the temple to Queen Cleopatra.
490
00:26:33,920 --> 00:26:36,976
Ancient Egyptian temples
have a foundation plate,
491
00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:40,160
a sort of registration,
marking the temple's creation.
492
00:26:43,280 --> 00:26:45,200
Look here, a square.
493
00:26:47,000 --> 00:26:49,896
I discovered the foundation plate.
494
00:26:49,920 --> 00:26:51,456
Just here?
Yes.
495
00:26:51,480 --> 00:26:54,016
This nondescript-looking hole?
496
00:26:54,040 --> 00:26:56,736
Yes. It was about this size.
497
00:26:56,760 --> 00:26:58,656
Exactly the size of the cell phone.
498
00:26:58,680 --> 00:27:01,136
So, as soon as it appeared,
did you know what it was?
499
00:27:01,160 --> 00:27:02,416
You realised what this object was?
500
00:27:02,440 --> 00:27:05,096
Yes, it was a very exciting moment
in the excavation.
501
00:27:05,120 --> 00:27:07,376
Of course, we know
the foundation plates.
502
00:27:07,400 --> 00:27:08,616
Let me show you.
503
00:27:08,640 --> 00:27:09,896
Oh, wow!
504
00:27:09,920 --> 00:27:11,776
Everybody was searching for them.
505
00:27:11,800 --> 00:27:14,216
And it has inscriptions
in hieroglyphic.
506
00:27:14,240 --> 00:27:16,336
And you could see clearly here.
507
00:27:16,360 --> 00:27:18,456
So, Greek, I can read bits of,
508
00:27:18,480 --> 00:27:20,776
and I can see here "basile".
509
00:27:20,800 --> 00:27:22,736
That's "king".
Yeah.
510
00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:26,496
And then that says "Iside",
so, "of Isis".
511
00:27:26,520 --> 00:27:27,816
Exactly.
Yeah.
512
00:27:27,840 --> 00:27:30,216
This revelation was important
to Kathleen,
513
00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:34,896
because Cleopatra identified herself
with the goddess Isis -
514
00:27:34,920 --> 00:27:37,096
a strong reason, Kathleen believes,
515
00:27:37,120 --> 00:27:41,296
that Cleopatra would have chosen
this site for her own burial.
516
00:27:41,320 --> 00:27:44,096
So everything at that moment,
517
00:27:44,120 --> 00:27:46,056
it changed history.
518
00:27:46,080 --> 00:27:49,456
Yeah.
My heart was beating so strongly.
519
00:27:49,480 --> 00:27:51,496
To whom was it dedicated?
Yeah, yeah.
520
00:27:51,520 --> 00:27:52,936
And then we saw "Isis".
521
00:27:52,960 --> 00:27:54,656
Imagine it. I was able to prove,
522
00:27:54,680 --> 00:27:57,216
because it could be dedicated
to any other god.
523
00:27:57,240 --> 00:27:59,096
That's amazing.
So what does it say, then?
524
00:27:59,120 --> 00:28:03,216
The whole translation says,
"The King of Upper and Lower Egypt,
525
00:28:03,240 --> 00:28:06,496
"Ptolemy, may he live forever.
526
00:28:06,520 --> 00:28:12,416
"Beloved of Isis, son of the king
of Upper and Lower Egypt, Ptolemy,
527
00:28:12,440 --> 00:28:13,976
"and the ruler Berenike.
528
00:28:14,000 --> 00:28:18,440
"The two beneficent gods
made this sanctuary for Isis."
529
00:28:20,080 --> 00:28:21,856
That's just extraordinary.
530
00:28:21,880 --> 00:28:24,176
And Cleopatra, as you said,
531
00:28:24,200 --> 00:28:26,736
is identifying herself
with the goddess Isis.
532
00:28:26,760 --> 00:28:27,920
Yes.
533
00:28:36,280 --> 00:28:39,816
Inside one of the temple walls
is a collection of fragments
534
00:28:39,840 --> 00:28:44,776
not quite good enough to be sent
to Egypt's Ministry of Antiquities.
535
00:28:44,800 --> 00:28:47,400
But these remnants
still mean a lot to Kathleen.
536
00:28:49,360 --> 00:28:51,376
Oh, so is this your stores?
537
00:28:51,400 --> 00:28:54,816
Yes.
We have some architectural elements.
538
00:28:54,840 --> 00:28:55,896
Yeah.
539
00:28:55,920 --> 00:28:58,616
These are pieces
which are not good enough.
540
00:28:58,640 --> 00:29:00,016
They are not considered artefacts,
541
00:29:00,040 --> 00:29:03,456
but they are very important for me,
542
00:29:03,480 --> 00:29:07,256
because I can have an idea
how the temple looks like.
543
00:29:07,280 --> 00:29:08,496
Yeah.
544
00:29:08,520 --> 00:29:11,376
How the temple was covered
in marble.
545
00:29:11,400 --> 00:29:13,896
That means a lot. It was very rich.
546
00:29:13,920 --> 00:29:16,776
Yeah. I just love the details.
547
00:29:16,800 --> 00:29:21,296
I love this little one here,
with this little spiral.
548
00:29:21,320 --> 00:29:23,776
This is architectural elements
549
00:29:23,800 --> 00:29:29,056
that goes in the top of the columns.
550
00:29:29,080 --> 00:29:31,739
It's just lovely, isn't it? I mean,
it looks so fresh, that carving.
551
00:29:32,840 --> 00:29:36,096
This is the head of a sphinx.
552
00:29:36,120 --> 00:29:39,536
So you're able to conjure
a picture of what these temples
553
00:29:39,560 --> 00:29:41,736
would have looked like
when they were in use?
554
00:29:41,760 --> 00:29:43,296
Yes.
Yeah.
555
00:29:43,320 --> 00:29:47,376
So how many artefacts have you found
in total during your excavations?
556
00:29:47,400 --> 00:29:50,216
Right now, I have
around 2,000 objects.
557
00:29:50,240 --> 00:29:55,216
Are you moving your focus
of attention out of the temple now
558
00:29:55,240 --> 00:29:58,656
and looking more outside
at the necropolis?
559
00:29:58,680 --> 00:30:02,896
Yes, we're widening the search
to the east.
560
00:30:02,920 --> 00:30:04,176
Can I go and see
what you've been doing?
561
00:30:04,200 --> 00:30:05,177
Yes.
Yeah?
562
00:30:05,201 --> 00:30:06,840
Yes, I'm looking forward to show it.
563
00:30:08,600 --> 00:30:12,696
In 2019, Kathleen's team started
to dig down
564
00:30:12,720 --> 00:30:17,400
to locate some tunnels that she'd
identified using scanning technology.
565
00:30:19,240 --> 00:30:22,656
Down below the temple, her team
of Bedouin workers spent weeks
566
00:30:22,680 --> 00:30:25,856
with basic tools
to excavate the tunnels
567
00:30:25,880 --> 00:30:28,680
that Kathleen believes
may run for miles.
568
00:30:30,080 --> 00:30:34,000
And now I'm going to go underground
to see what she's found.
569
00:30:37,960 --> 00:30:41,736
I'm at an archaeological site
on the outskirts of Alexandria
570
00:30:41,760 --> 00:30:43,576
with Kathleen Martinez,
571
00:30:43,600 --> 00:30:46,176
who believes that Cleopatra herself
572
00:30:46,200 --> 00:30:48,536
is buried somewhere here.
573
00:30:48,560 --> 00:30:52,216
Kathleen has been searching
for Cleopatra for 15 years,
574
00:30:52,240 --> 00:30:55,776
but it's only recently that she's
discovered hidden tunnels,
575
00:30:55,800 --> 00:30:59,176
stretching out beyond the highway,
for two kilometres,
576
00:30:59,200 --> 00:31:02,176
underneath the Mediterranean Sea.
577
00:31:02,200 --> 00:31:04,216
So how did you find the shaft?
578
00:31:04,240 --> 00:31:06,616
Are you using
ground-penetrating radar?
579
00:31:06,640 --> 00:31:09,096
You know, how are you detecting
where the shaft is?
580
00:31:09,120 --> 00:31:11,896
Some we have discovered with GPR,
581
00:31:11,920 --> 00:31:13,576
some excavating.
582
00:31:13,600 --> 00:31:14,896
Yeah, yeah.
583
00:31:14,920 --> 00:31:16,456
Can we go down?
Yes.
584
00:31:16,480 --> 00:31:17,536
Yeah?
585
00:31:17,560 --> 00:31:18,696
How do you feel to go down?
586
00:31:18,720 --> 00:31:20,176
There are snakes and...
587
00:31:20,200 --> 00:31:21,920
Um... How deep is it?
588
00:31:23,160 --> 00:31:25,416
Eight metres.
Eight metres.
589
00:31:25,440 --> 00:31:26,440
Not too bad.
590
00:31:27,760 --> 00:31:29,040
But there are snakes down there.
591
00:31:30,440 --> 00:31:32,256
There are snakes
592
00:31:32,280 --> 00:31:35,096
and also some scorpions.
593
00:31:35,120 --> 00:31:36,680
Yeah, OK.
594
00:31:38,200 --> 00:31:39,720
Snakes and scorpions.
595
00:31:51,040 --> 00:31:53,160
OK. I'm coming down.
596
00:32:05,600 --> 00:32:07,336
Now, you said there were
venomous snakes down here,
597
00:32:07,360 --> 00:32:08,440
but I didn't bring my...
598
00:32:09,800 --> 00:32:12,496
..flaming torch to get rid of them,
599
00:32:12,520 --> 00:32:14,120
so I hope they've all scarpered.
600
00:32:17,920 --> 00:32:19,456
Welcome to the underworld,
601
00:32:19,480 --> 00:32:21,256
the world of Osiris.
602
00:32:21,280 --> 00:32:23,040
Thank you!
603
00:32:27,320 --> 00:32:29,256
These tunnels are just astonishing.
604
00:32:29,280 --> 00:32:30,656
So when did you dig this out?
605
00:32:30,680 --> 00:32:32,176
When did you and your team
dig this out?
606
00:32:32,200 --> 00:32:34,016
I've been digging three years,
607
00:32:34,040 --> 00:32:36,376
but it's very hard to work here.
Yeah.
608
00:32:36,400 --> 00:32:39,416
And you can see
the way it was built,
609
00:32:39,440 --> 00:32:41,816
it was chiselled,
and in this direction.
610
00:32:41,840 --> 00:32:43,576
Yeah.
611
00:32:43,600 --> 00:32:46,456
It's perfectly cut,
612
00:32:46,480 --> 00:32:47,840
cut in the bedrock.
613
00:32:48,920 --> 00:32:52,696
You see, it has a lot of humidity,
614
00:32:52,720 --> 00:32:53,776
this part.
Yeah.
615
00:32:53,800 --> 00:32:55,216
Right now,
616
00:32:55,240 --> 00:32:59,456
we are exactly beneath the highway.
617
00:32:59,480 --> 00:33:00,616
Really?
618
00:33:00,640 --> 00:33:02,576
You can feel it in vibration.
Can you?
619
00:33:02,600 --> 00:33:05,176
The road could so easily have
destroyed this archaeology,
620
00:33:05,200 --> 00:33:06,736
couldn't it?
Yes.
621
00:33:06,760 --> 00:33:10,856
The tunnel, it's leading me
to the Mediterranean Sea.
622
00:33:10,880 --> 00:33:12,376
It goes all the way out?
623
00:33:12,400 --> 00:33:16,416
And there was no historical
records that indicate
624
00:33:16,440 --> 00:33:19,016
that the temple was bigger...
Yeah.
625
00:33:19,040 --> 00:33:23,736
..or it has some other structures.
626
00:33:23,760 --> 00:33:24,936
Yeah, yeah.
627
00:33:24,960 --> 00:33:28,696
Just incredible that it's only
emerged in the last few years,
628
00:33:28,720 --> 00:33:30,680
thanks to all your perseverance.
629
00:33:32,840 --> 00:33:35,936
The tunnels were full of sand,
which has been dug out,
630
00:33:35,960 --> 00:33:39,416
but there's much more to clear
before Kathleen finds out
631
00:33:39,440 --> 00:33:41,216
where they eventually lead,
632
00:33:41,240 --> 00:33:43,856
and what, if anything,
she'll find there.
633
00:33:43,880 --> 00:33:45,976
How does it feel to be amongst
the latest generation
634
00:33:46,000 --> 00:33:50,856
of archaeologists to be making
discoveries like this in Egypt?
635
00:33:50,880 --> 00:33:55,336
I think many discoveries
will be made in the near future,
636
00:33:55,360 --> 00:33:59,376
because a new generation of workers
are thinking out of the box...
637
00:33:59,400 --> 00:34:00,656
Yeah.
638
00:34:00,680 --> 00:34:04,976
..and that will help to understand
better our past.
639
00:34:05,000 --> 00:34:07,976
So you're not afraid to challenge
those old theories?
640
00:34:08,000 --> 00:34:10,096
Yes, I'm not afraid at all.
641
00:34:10,120 --> 00:34:15,336
As a matter of fact, I like
to change all those wrong theories,
642
00:34:15,360 --> 00:34:18,696
and books written, for example,
about Queen Cleopatra,
643
00:34:18,720 --> 00:34:22,016
and if I discover Cleopatra's tomb,
644
00:34:22,040 --> 00:34:24,056
she will speak to us
through her tomb...
645
00:34:24,080 --> 00:34:25,136
Yeah.
646
00:34:25,160 --> 00:34:28,536
..and we will have
another understanding
647
00:34:28,560 --> 00:34:31,256
of her as a historical character.
648
00:34:31,280 --> 00:34:34,160
And I believe these tunnels
are the key.
649
00:34:36,080 --> 00:34:40,456
Kathleen's passion for her quest to
find Cleopatra's final resting place
650
00:34:40,480 --> 00:34:42,336
has to be admired.
651
00:34:42,360 --> 00:34:44,456
Kathleen believes that the tunnels
652
00:34:44,480 --> 00:34:47,176
may have some connection
with the tomb.
653
00:34:47,200 --> 00:34:48,976
I'm somewhat doubtful,
654
00:34:49,000 --> 00:34:51,056
but the ongoing excavation
655
00:34:51,080 --> 00:34:54,656
will either prove her correct,
or not.
656
00:34:54,680 --> 00:34:58,696
Many Egyptologists
dismiss her mission as fantasy,
657
00:34:58,720 --> 00:35:00,816
but I have a feeling
that any scepticism
658
00:35:00,840 --> 00:35:04,080
will do nothing more than
spur Kathleen on in her quest.
659
00:35:10,600 --> 00:35:11,856
Back on the train,
660
00:35:11,880 --> 00:35:14,056
to a destination halfway between
661
00:35:14,080 --> 00:35:15,976
Alexandria and Cairo,
662
00:35:16,000 --> 00:35:17,560
the town of Tanta.
663
00:35:19,680 --> 00:35:21,536
This is where I'm making
a quick stop,
664
00:35:21,560 --> 00:35:25,256
because I've been told about
an active archaeological site
665
00:35:25,280 --> 00:35:28,600
that dates back to the very
beginnings of ancient Egypt...
666
00:35:30,680 --> 00:35:33,456
..going back almost 5,000 years
667
00:35:33,480 --> 00:35:36,416
to the time of
the earliest pharaohs.
668
00:35:36,440 --> 00:35:37,440
I'm intrigued.
669
00:35:50,800 --> 00:35:53,296
So this is very much
off the beaten track,
670
00:35:53,320 --> 00:35:54,656
but I was desperate to come here.
671
00:35:54,680 --> 00:35:57,776
This place is known as
Tell El-Fara'een,
672
00:35:57,800 --> 00:35:59,816
the Hill of the Pharaohs.
673
00:35:59,840 --> 00:36:01,736
To the Greeks, it was Buto.
674
00:36:01,760 --> 00:36:04,096
To the ancient Egyptians themselves,
675
00:36:04,120 --> 00:36:07,096
it was Per-Wadjet -
"the place of Wadjet".
676
00:36:07,120 --> 00:36:10,200
Now, she's the cobra goddess
of Lower Egypt.
677
00:36:12,480 --> 00:36:14,216
First impressions, though,
678
00:36:14,240 --> 00:36:16,216
I might have travelled a long way
679
00:36:16,240 --> 00:36:18,600
just to look at a mound of earth.
680
00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:26,120
This was once a vibrant city.
681
00:36:29,680 --> 00:36:32,176
It was discovered
in the late 19th century
682
00:36:32,200 --> 00:36:35,496
by Scottish Egyptologist
Flinders Petrie,
683
00:36:35,520 --> 00:36:39,520
but excavation only really started
in earnest in the 1960s.
684
00:36:40,760 --> 00:36:43,776
It was also an important sacred site,
685
00:36:43,800 --> 00:36:46,376
connected in ancient Egyptian myth
686
00:36:46,400 --> 00:36:50,616
to the goddess Isis
and her son, the god Horus.
687
00:36:50,640 --> 00:36:54,296
There's all this evidence
of your excavations around us.
688
00:36:54,320 --> 00:36:57,096
Pieces of pottery. Shall I sit here?
Yeah. This is what we...
689
00:36:57,120 --> 00:36:59,616
I'm lucky enough to be meeting
the site director,
690
00:36:59,640 --> 00:37:01,576
Dr Hossam Ghoniem,
691
00:37:01,600 --> 00:37:03,560
with translator Mohamed Hawash.
692
00:37:04,880 --> 00:37:07,056
Oh, this is incredible.
693
00:37:07,080 --> 00:37:09,976
So underneath all of this mound,
694
00:37:10,000 --> 00:37:13,200
you've got incredible archaeology
emerging.
695
00:37:14,440 --> 00:37:16,920
So was there a temple of Horus here?
696
00:37:25,120 --> 00:37:26,776
There's a temple for Horus here,
697
00:37:26,800 --> 00:37:29,576
and there is another temple
for Wadjet,
698
00:37:29,600 --> 00:37:33,696
because Isis and Osiris'
stories started here.
699
00:37:33,720 --> 00:37:34,697
Oh, really?
700
00:37:34,721 --> 00:37:38,736
So, and also, this place was
the capital of Lower Egypt,
701
00:37:38,760 --> 00:37:41,536
before they united all of
Lower and Upper Egypt.
702
00:37:41,560 --> 00:37:42,736
Right.
703
00:37:42,760 --> 00:37:45,096
So this is a really important
place...
704
00:37:45,120 --> 00:37:46,536
It is.
..in ancient Egypt, then?
705
00:37:46,560 --> 00:37:47,776
Yeah, yeah.
Yeah.
706
00:37:47,800 --> 00:37:49,776
Very, very important place, yeah.
707
00:37:49,800 --> 00:37:50,777
Hossam,
708
00:37:50,801 --> 00:37:53,080
what level are we looking at here?
709
00:37:58,120 --> 00:38:00,856
It's a new kingdom.
Right, OK.
710
00:38:00,880 --> 00:38:04,176
They're working
in around 12-metre depths,
711
00:38:04,200 --> 00:38:07,016
as layers of civilisation
on top of each other.
712
00:38:07,040 --> 00:38:08,896
Yeah. What's the most ancient?
713
00:38:08,920 --> 00:38:10,896
The most ancient is Predynastic.
714
00:38:10,920 --> 00:38:13,016
Yeah, and that takes us back to...
715
00:38:13,040 --> 00:38:15,216
4th, uh, millennium BCE.
716
00:38:15,240 --> 00:38:16,896
4th millennium BCE?
4th millennium.
717
00:38:16,920 --> 00:38:18,016
So you've got...
718
00:38:18,040 --> 00:38:21,976
..you've got 6,000 years
of history here.
719
00:38:22,000 --> 00:38:25,496
There is still a lot,
a lot to see, or to discover,
720
00:38:25,520 --> 00:38:28,776
'cause what they're working on
is around one hectare,
721
00:38:28,800 --> 00:38:32,096
and the all temples area
is like 11 hectares.
722
00:38:32,120 --> 00:38:33,536
Really? Yeah.
723
00:38:33,560 --> 00:38:35,256
So it's like... it's a massive area.
724
00:38:35,280 --> 00:38:37,136
And you're obviously still digging.
725
00:38:37,160 --> 00:38:39,296
Is this part of the same vessel?
726
00:38:39,320 --> 00:38:40,936
Does that go together?
Yeah, it's the same one.
727
00:38:40,960 --> 00:38:42,736
Yeah, it's the same one.
728
00:38:42,760 --> 00:38:44,376
Oh, that's so satisfying, isn't it?
729
00:38:44,400 --> 00:38:45,776
Look at that.
Yeah.
730
00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:47,216
With restoration,
we can complete it.
731
00:38:47,240 --> 00:38:49,136
And that's, what,
the top of an amphora?
732
00:38:49,160 --> 00:38:52,176
Yeah, yeah, of an amphora,
and this is the piece.
733
00:38:52,200 --> 00:38:53,416
Yeah.
Like this.
734
00:38:53,440 --> 00:38:54,936
Huge vessels.
Yeah, yeah.
735
00:38:54,960 --> 00:38:56,376
Full of what? Wine, oil?
736
00:38:56,400 --> 00:38:57,536
Maybe.
Yeah.
737
00:38:57,560 --> 00:38:58,880
Maybe for wine.
738
00:39:04,800 --> 00:39:08,216
He's very happy when he finds
anything, because anything he found,
739
00:39:08,240 --> 00:39:10,256
he adds knowledge to him.
740
00:39:10,280 --> 00:39:12,776
It's incredible, isn't it,
that, you know, we're still...
741
00:39:12,800 --> 00:39:14,736
..we're still learning,
you're still digging,
742
00:39:14,760 --> 00:39:16,776
you're still making discoveries
every year.
743
00:39:16,800 --> 00:39:18,016
Thank you so much.
744
00:39:18,040 --> 00:39:19,600
I'm going to go and explore now.
745
00:39:20,680 --> 00:39:21,840
Thank you.
746
00:39:28,520 --> 00:39:32,696
With sites as rich as this,
there is still so much to unearth.
747
00:39:32,720 --> 00:39:35,680
The whole history of the settlement
is preserved here.
748
00:39:39,320 --> 00:39:41,296
Oh, just look at that section.
749
00:39:41,320 --> 00:39:44,336
You've got the... you've got
the history of the site there.
750
00:39:44,360 --> 00:39:48,016
You can really see all these layers,
all these strata,
751
00:39:48,040 --> 00:39:51,256
and we go back and back in time
as we go down,
752
00:39:51,280 --> 00:39:54,056
and they're packed full of pottery.
753
00:39:54,080 --> 00:39:56,616
So you'll be able to date
each of those,
754
00:39:56,640 --> 00:40:00,536
and we're looking at going back
in time, thousands of years,
755
00:40:00,560 --> 00:40:04,736
until we get right back
into the early Pharaonic period,
756
00:40:04,760 --> 00:40:08,600
and these columns are sitting
down on that level.
757
00:40:09,800 --> 00:40:12,600
6,000 years of history in one place.
758
00:40:18,280 --> 00:40:21,496
Hossam has told me to look
carefully in this passage.
759
00:40:21,520 --> 00:40:24,200
There should be some
ancient writing on the walls.
760
00:40:28,400 --> 00:40:30,616
This is fantastic.
It just goes down and down.
761
00:40:30,640 --> 00:40:33,296
We descend beneath the Roman layers,
762
00:40:33,320 --> 00:40:34,936
beneath the Ptolemaic layers,
763
00:40:34,960 --> 00:40:38,000
get back to the time of
the Pharaohs...
764
00:40:39,400 --> 00:40:40,640
..and down here...
765
00:40:42,160 --> 00:40:43,440
..are some hieroglyphs.
766
00:40:44,960 --> 00:40:49,056
Over here, what we've got
are these rounded off rectangles.
767
00:40:49,080 --> 00:40:50,656
Now, these are cartouches,
768
00:40:50,680 --> 00:40:54,256
and we know, then,
that that contains a name,
769
00:40:54,280 --> 00:40:57,496
so you've got a set of symbols
in here, which will be a name.
770
00:40:57,520 --> 00:41:00,896
This one, you can see,
has got a little scarab in it,
771
00:41:00,920 --> 00:41:02,680
and here's a falcon.
772
00:41:04,160 --> 00:41:08,136
And over here, I think,
this is the double crown,
773
00:41:08,160 --> 00:41:12,136
so the crown, the red and white crown
of Upper and Lower Egypt,
774
00:41:12,160 --> 00:41:13,960
when the two kingdoms come together.
775
00:41:14,960 --> 00:41:18,056
This looks like horns,
776
00:41:18,080 --> 00:41:20,296
with a sun disk in the middle,
777
00:41:20,320 --> 00:41:23,960
so that's very possibly Hathor,
the cow goddess.
778
00:41:25,320 --> 00:41:26,336
And this is taking us back
779
00:41:26,360 --> 00:41:29,200
to the early dynasties
of ancient Egypt.
780
00:41:34,680 --> 00:41:38,480
Three mounds of earth,
taking me back 5,000 years ago.
781
00:41:39,640 --> 00:41:41,920
It's given me so much
to think about.
782
00:41:44,080 --> 00:41:48,176
Hossam is continuing the work here
that Flinders Petrie started
783
00:41:48,200 --> 00:41:50,416
over 100 years ago.
784
00:41:50,440 --> 00:41:52,856
Now, when Amelia Edwards died,
785
00:41:52,880 --> 00:41:55,856
she left a bequest
to University College London,
786
00:41:55,880 --> 00:41:59,496
to set up a Chair
in Egyptian archaeology,
787
00:41:59,520 --> 00:42:04,376
and the first professor in that post
was Flinders Petrie.
788
00:42:04,400 --> 00:42:07,376
He was a pioneer of Egyptology,
789
00:42:07,400 --> 00:42:09,656
and indeed modern archaeology,
790
00:42:09,680 --> 00:42:14,136
but he's a deeply controversial
figure for his political views
791
00:42:14,160 --> 00:42:16,296
and his racist ideology.
792
00:42:16,320 --> 00:42:20,736
So we've got a familiar quandary
here in the history of archaeology,
793
00:42:20,760 --> 00:42:22,376
and science in general -
794
00:42:22,400 --> 00:42:24,856
what do we do about these people,
795
00:42:24,880 --> 00:42:27,376
when we want to respect
their discoveries
796
00:42:27,400 --> 00:42:30,176
and their contribution to knowledge,
797
00:42:30,200 --> 00:42:33,096
but at the same time, we want to
798
00:42:33,120 --> 00:42:37,120
confront that troubling history
of archaeology?
799
00:42:38,200 --> 00:42:42,000
And perhaps it's a lesson
not to put people on pedestals.
800
00:43:01,040 --> 00:43:04,936
The cosmopolitan and historic city
of Alexandria has given me
801
00:43:04,960 --> 00:43:08,240
a great insight into the tail-end
of ancient Egypt.
802
00:43:12,760 --> 00:43:16,560
From finding out more about how
the Romans lived at Kom el-Dikka...
803
00:43:19,200 --> 00:43:24,736
..to walking in the tunnels that
could lead to Cleopatra's lost tomb,
804
00:43:24,760 --> 00:43:28,496
I'll be forever grateful
for my time spent here.
805
00:43:28,520 --> 00:43:31,256
More treasures of ancient Egypt
await me,
806
00:43:31,280 --> 00:43:33,160
and it's time to get
back on the train.
807
00:43:44,720 --> 00:43:48,280
I'm going to be heading south
to Cairo, the capital city.
808
00:44:03,800 --> 00:44:06,536
I'm really sad to be saying goodbye
to Alexandria
809
00:44:06,560 --> 00:44:08,136
and the Mediterranean Sea,
810
00:44:08,160 --> 00:44:10,296
but my journey now lies to the south.
811
00:44:10,320 --> 00:44:13,296
I'm also leaving behind
that more recent history,
812
00:44:13,320 --> 00:44:17,376
the Mamluk rulers of Egypt,
the Romans and the Greeks,
813
00:44:17,400 --> 00:44:20,336
and I'm going in search
of the pharaohs.
814
00:44:20,360 --> 00:44:22,440
I'm headed for the pyramids.
815
00:44:27,960 --> 00:44:31,576
Next time, I'll find out
about the British involvement
816
00:44:31,600 --> 00:44:33,976
in the birth of
the Egyptian railways.
817
00:44:34,000 --> 00:44:36,800
Robert Stephenson,
Newcastle on Tyne.
818
00:44:38,800 --> 00:44:40,736
Bridge up.
819
00:44:40,760 --> 00:44:43,976
The death of the most famous
pharaoh of them all.
820
00:44:44,000 --> 00:44:46,216
I've seen so many pictures of this,
821
00:44:46,240 --> 00:44:48,720
but nothing quite prepares you
for the real thing.
822
00:44:49,960 --> 00:44:52,656
Absolutely beautiful.
823
00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:54,800
- This would have been roofed over?
- Yes.
824
00:44:57,160 --> 00:44:59,976
I get amazing access
to the only surviving
825
00:45:00,000 --> 00:45:01,600
Ancient Wonder of the World.
826
00:45:02,600 --> 00:45:05,496
I'm incredibly privileged
to be going inside
827
00:45:05,520 --> 00:45:07,616
the Great Pyramid of Khufu
828
00:45:07,640 --> 00:45:08,960
on my own.
829
00:45:14,880 --> 00:45:18,360
Surely the greatest tomb
that has ever been made.
830
00:45:21,160 --> 00:45:24,296
And I even squeeze in
a bit of shopping.
831
00:45:24,320 --> 00:45:25,576
I love that one.
832
00:45:25,600 --> 00:45:26,936
That's 50.
833
00:45:26,960 --> 00:45:28,200
Could it be 25?
834
00:45:29,160 --> 00:45:30,160
30?
835
00:45:31,800 --> 00:45:33,240
Thank you very much.
836
00:45:41,680 --> 00:45:44,680
Captions by Red Bee Media
(c) 2023 SBS Australia
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