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1
00:00:17,752 --> 00:00:20,585
What it's all about now? Huh?
2
00:00:20,688 --> 00:00:23,486
We're making
a documentary about Bill.
3
00:00:23,591 --> 00:00:25,821
Oh, a documentary on him? Yes.
4
00:00:25,926 --> 00:00:27,791
Oh. What about it?
5
00:00:27,895 --> 00:00:30,227
What do you want me say about Bill?
6
00:01:38,099 --> 00:01:40,966
The best fashion show
is definitely on the street.
7
00:01:41,068 --> 00:01:43,127
Always has been
and always will be.
8
00:01:43,237 --> 00:01:45,671
It never occurred to me
that I'm just waiting.
9
00:01:45,773 --> 00:01:48,970
It's always the hope
that you'll see...
10
00:01:49,076 --> 00:01:51,772
some marvelous,
exotic bird of paradise,
11
00:01:51,879 --> 00:01:54,814
meaning a very elegant,
stunning woman,
12
00:01:54,915 --> 00:01:57,440
or someone wearing
something terrific.
13
00:01:57,551 --> 00:02:00,179
A friend of mine, Steven O.,
called me at home,
14
00:02:00,287 --> 00:02:03,620
and he said, "Patrick,
there's 17 pictures of you...
15
00:02:03,724 --> 00:02:05,453
in the New York Times. "
16
00:02:05,559 --> 00:02:08,960
I was walking on a cloud
for weeks after that. I still am.
17
00:02:09,063 --> 00:02:10,963
I'm still on my dandy cloud.
18
00:02:11,065 --> 00:02:12,157
Oh, my God.
19
00:02:12,266 --> 00:02:14,598
Look at... Look at the shoes.
See the heels?
20
00:02:14,702 --> 00:02:16,465
Isn't that wonderful?
21
00:02:16,570 --> 00:02:20,131
You have to be able to give the reader...
in a flash on Sunday...
22
00:02:20,241 --> 00:02:23,438
news and excitement
about what it was.
23
00:02:23,544 --> 00:02:24,806
You know,
he has two columns.
24
00:02:24,912 --> 00:02:26,812
One of them
which is about...
25
00:02:26,914 --> 00:02:30,782
a documentation
of New York life,
26
00:02:30,885 --> 00:02:36,016
in terms of the drivers of its social and
philanthropic world, political world,
27
00:02:36,123 --> 00:02:41,117
and this other, which is really
an attempt to tease out trends...
28
00:02:41,228 --> 00:02:44,061
in terms of the reality
of how people dress.
29
00:02:44,165 --> 00:02:48,625
By covering those two aspects,
I think he really does address...
30
00:02:48,736 --> 00:02:50,829
the whole spectrum
of what we are as New Yorkers,
31
00:02:50,938 --> 00:02:53,372
and I believe
he's the only one who does it.
32
00:02:53,474 --> 00:02:57,740
See, I don't decide anything.
I let the street speak to me.
33
00:02:57,845 --> 00:03:00,837
In order for the street
to speak to you,
34
00:03:00,948 --> 00:03:03,712
you've got to stay out there
and see what it is.
35
00:03:03,817 --> 00:03:06,251
You just don't manufacture
in your head...
36
00:03:06,353 --> 00:03:08,184
that skirts at the knee
are the thing.
37
00:03:08,289 --> 00:03:10,814
Then you go out and photograph
people with skirts at the knee.
38
00:03:10,925 --> 00:03:14,861
You've got to stay on the street and
let the street tell you what it is.
39
00:03:14,962 --> 00:03:17,692
There's no shortcuts.
Believe me.
40
00:03:51,732 --> 00:03:54,963
Oh, my goodness.
I don't know where to stop or start.
41
00:03:55,069 --> 00:03:56,036
This is terrible.
42
00:03:57,338 --> 00:03:58,532
What's your deadline?
43
00:03:58,639 --> 00:04:01,233
You could... You could
really be a great help to me.
44
00:04:01,342 --> 00:04:02,832
What?
45
00:04:02,943 --> 00:04:04,911
Take these out like this, John.
46
00:04:05,012 --> 00:04:08,038
Okay.
Make it easy.
47
00:04:08,148 --> 00:04:10,241
And keep them like this,
and it would help me.
48
00:04:10,351 --> 00:04:12,114
Put 'em in here.
Okay.
49
00:04:12,219 --> 00:04:14,653
I hate to ask you.
I don't mean to use you...
50
00:04:14,755 --> 00:04:17,053
or misuse you,
but it would be helpful.
51
00:04:18,525 --> 00:04:19,787
Today is Thursday.
52
00:04:19,893 --> 00:04:21,884
When do you usually
know when your page...
53
00:04:21,996 --> 00:04:24,726
Right now.
Right now. I see.
54
00:04:24,832 --> 00:04:26,823
Yeah, it should be done.
I see.
55
00:04:26,934 --> 00:04:28,765
We haven't even got 'em scanned.
56
00:04:28,869 --> 00:04:31,497
Do you know what your page is yet?
Your "On the Street" page?
57
00:04:31,605 --> 00:04:33,197
Do you know
what it's going to be?
58
00:04:33,307 --> 00:04:37,334
It's going to be, uh,
all on legs and shoes.
59
00:04:45,419 --> 00:04:47,148
Oh, those are nice.
60
00:04:47,254 --> 00:04:48,949
Now that's a good one.
61
00:04:49,056 --> 00:04:50,489
I guess we'd better do it.
62
00:04:51,525 --> 00:04:54,289
You're gonna call that store
you want me to run down to...
63
00:04:54,395 --> 00:04:55,760
to go get your film?
Yeah.
64
00:05:01,468 --> 00:05:02,935
Oh, hello there.
65
00:05:03,037 --> 00:05:05,699
Uh, this is the guy that
comes on a bicycle.
66
00:05:05,806 --> 00:05:08,434
You're developing some film for me.
67
00:05:08,542 --> 00:05:12,034
Yeah. Uh, listen, I'm in...
kind of running,
68
00:05:12,146 --> 00:05:15,479
and a friend of mine
was gonna come and pick it up.
69
00:05:15,582 --> 00:05:17,482
John.
70
00:05:17,584 --> 00:05:20,576
He's a tall fella,
and he has long hair.
71
00:05:20,688 --> 00:05:22,713
You know. Okay.
72
00:05:22,823 --> 00:05:24,120
All right.
73
00:05:24,224 --> 00:05:25,657
I'll go get it.
74
00:05:25,759 --> 00:05:29,388
There's a couple of pictures on there
of shoes from this morning.
75
00:05:29,496 --> 00:05:31,123
All right.
So, we need that for today.
76
00:05:31,231 --> 00:05:34,394
- And I'll quickly get on this.
- Okay. I'll be right back with it.
77
00:05:34,501 --> 00:05:36,992
Wait a minute. Come on.
Let's get snappin' and crackin'.
78
00:05:37,104 --> 00:05:40,835
See, static, static.
Getting a little better.
79
00:05:40,941 --> 00:05:43,068
Then when the wind blows a bit...
80
00:05:43,177 --> 00:05:44,405
Oh, isn't that fun.
81
00:05:44,511 --> 00:05:47,674
Oh, you see, the minute
you get in the rain...
82
00:05:47,781 --> 00:05:50,750
When it rains,
it's a whole different scene.
83
00:05:50,851 --> 00:05:53,684
Or when there's a blizzard
is the best time.
84
00:05:53,787 --> 00:05:55,482
Things happen.
People forget about you.
85
00:05:55,589 --> 00:05:59,047
If they see you,
they don't go putting on airs.
86
00:05:59,159 --> 00:06:00,251
They're the way they are,
87
00:06:00,361 --> 00:06:02,693
and if they happen to be wearing
what you're photographing,
88
00:06:02,796 --> 00:06:04,491
then you're in business.
89
00:06:04,598 --> 00:06:07,590
He's caught me on a rainy day
jumping puddles,
90
00:06:07,701 --> 00:06:09,566
the same way I did for Avedon,
91
00:06:09,670 --> 00:06:10,864
but...
92
00:06:10,971 --> 00:06:12,700
It was much less painful...
93
00:06:12,806 --> 00:06:14,706
when Bill photographed me,
94
00:06:14,808 --> 00:06:16,435
and much more natural.
95
00:06:16,543 --> 00:06:18,101
He catches you
crossing a street...
96
00:06:18,212 --> 00:06:20,009
with boots and
blue jeans and this,
97
00:06:20,114 --> 00:06:21,445
and he's so happy,
98
00:06:21,548 --> 00:06:24,346
and he's much happier
when you're in this...
99
00:06:24,451 --> 00:06:26,681
looking terrible and ratty,
than he is...
100
00:06:26,787 --> 00:06:30,621
if he saw you in something
incredibly elegant and smart.
101
00:06:32,926 --> 00:06:35,724
That's my poncho.
They're so cheap...
102
00:06:35,829 --> 00:06:39,162
that you wear them once or twice,
and then they start tearing.
103
00:06:39,266 --> 00:06:41,234
First at the neck, immediately.
104
00:06:41,335 --> 00:06:44,702
Well, why buy a new one?
It's only gonna tear anyway.
105
00:06:45,906 --> 00:06:48,636
So you repair the old one.
106
00:06:50,577 --> 00:06:54,069
Damn you, New Yorkers.
You're all so extravagant and wasteful.
107
00:06:55,549 --> 00:06:57,176
But I don't believe in one wear.
108
00:06:57,284 --> 00:07:02,483
So a little tape.
And we're back in business.
109
00:07:02,589 --> 00:07:05,524
I know this embarrasses everyone.
110
00:07:05,626 --> 00:07:07,457
It doesn't embarrass me.
111
00:07:07,561 --> 00:07:09,392
I think everyone
that knows Bill...
112
00:07:09,496 --> 00:07:12,488
and understands who he is
and what he represents...
113
00:07:12,599 --> 00:07:16,330
will always be thrilled
to be photographed by Bill.
114
00:07:16,437 --> 00:07:19,338
I mean, I've said many times
that we all get dressed for Bill.
115
00:07:19,440 --> 00:07:21,704
Anna! Anna!
116
00:07:23,610 --> 00:07:25,009
Anna, right here, please?
117
00:07:25,112 --> 00:07:28,104
Anna, right here.
Can you stop for a moment?
118
00:07:28,215 --> 00:07:30,342
- She stopped for you.
- She stopped for Bill.
119
00:07:30,451 --> 00:07:33,284
He's sort of
been documenting me for...
120
00:07:33,387 --> 00:07:35,855
Since I was a kid, like in my...
19, 20 years old,
121
00:07:35,956 --> 00:07:37,514
and it's one snap, two snaps,
122
00:07:37,624 --> 00:07:40,184
or he ignores you,
which is death, you know?
123
00:07:40,294 --> 00:07:43,593
But he's always doing it
because he has a point of view.
124
00:07:43,697 --> 00:07:45,494
He'd take my picture
whenever he saw me.
125
00:07:45,599 --> 00:07:48,261
Sometimes it got into the Times,
and most often not.
126
00:07:48,368 --> 00:07:51,462
And then little by little,
he began to photograph me more.
127
00:07:51,572 --> 00:07:55,406
I would come into a place.
And he would say, "Oh, thank God you're here."
128
00:07:55,509 --> 00:07:57,670
Every...
Oh, I guess you can't say that.
129
00:07:57,778 --> 00:08:02,181
But he used to say, "Everybody here looks so boring.
Everybody looks alike. "
130
00:08:02,282 --> 00:08:04,113
See, a lot of people have taste.
131
00:08:04,218 --> 00:08:06,209
But they don't have
the daring to be creative.
132
00:08:06,320 --> 00:08:09,585
Here we are in an age
of the cookie-cutter sameness.
133
00:08:09,690 --> 00:08:11,487
There are few that are rarities.
134
00:08:11,592 --> 00:08:15,858
Someone that doesn't look
like they were stamped out of...
135
00:08:15,963 --> 00:08:17,988
ten million other people
looking all the same.
136
00:08:18,098 --> 00:08:20,726
At the U.N.,
my friends used to...
137
00:08:20,834 --> 00:08:23,962
Colleagues used to call me
the designing diplomat...
138
00:08:24,071 --> 00:08:27,700
because during the day,
I wore my U.N. Suit,
139
00:08:27,808 --> 00:08:30,470
which was very conservative,
but in the evenings,
140
00:08:30,577 --> 00:08:32,977
I'd go out to Studio 54.
141
00:08:33,080 --> 00:08:35,674
That's when Bill photographed me
for the first time.
142
00:08:35,782 --> 00:08:37,215
I wish I could find the picture.
143
00:08:37,317 --> 00:08:39,911
The first picture he ever took of
me in the New York Times.
144
00:08:40,020 --> 00:08:42,818
I used to have this coat
with a big hood...
145
00:08:42,923 --> 00:08:46,324
and it was a Hudson Bay blanket,
so it was all, like, bright striped,
146
00:08:46,426 --> 00:08:49,156
and I used to wear them with,
like, little hot-pink ankle boots.
147
00:08:49,263 --> 00:08:52,596
That's how I met him.
He used to run after me on the street.
148
00:08:52,699 --> 00:08:55,566
He's like a war photographer in
that he'll do anything for the shot.
149
00:08:55,669 --> 00:08:57,569
I've been in deep conversations
with him...
150
00:08:57,671 --> 00:09:00,834
where he just will, like, run from
me 'cause he sees somebody.
151
00:09:00,941 --> 00:09:04,308
So, I mean, he sees something that's
amazing, he has to go shoot it.
152
00:09:05,913 --> 00:09:09,349
I sometimes will look at his pages
in the Times or online,
153
00:09:09,449 --> 00:09:12,907
and just be so amazed that he and I...
154
00:09:13,020 --> 00:09:15,113
and all my team and all
the rest of the world...
155
00:09:15,222 --> 00:09:17,122
we're all sitting
in the same fashion shows...
156
00:09:17,224 --> 00:09:20,785
but he's seen something
on the street or on the runway...
157
00:09:20,894 --> 00:09:22,862
that completely missed all of us,
158
00:09:22,963 --> 00:09:26,421
and in six months' time, you know,
that will be a trend.
159
00:09:26,533 --> 00:09:28,467
Hold that right there.
160
00:09:28,569 --> 00:09:30,196
You have to do three things.
161
00:09:30,304 --> 00:09:34,434
You don't get the most
information from any one.
162
00:09:34,541 --> 00:09:36,304
You have to photograph
the collections.
163
00:09:36,410 --> 00:09:38,878
You have to photograph
the women on the street...
164
00:09:38,979 --> 00:09:42,107
who have bought the things
and how they're wearing them.
165
00:09:42,215 --> 00:09:45,582
And then you have to go
to the evening events.
166
00:09:45,686 --> 00:09:49,713
You can't report to the public
unless you've seen it all.
167
00:09:49,823 --> 00:09:51,791
People just go off
and say what they think.
168
00:09:51,892 --> 00:09:53,917
Well, it isn't really what I think.
169
00:09:54,027 --> 00:09:55,892
It's what I see.
170
00:09:56,797 --> 00:09:59,630
It doesn't
happen like in a day or an hour.
171
00:09:59,733 --> 00:10:00,995
I go out and that's it.
172
00:10:01,101 --> 00:10:03,763
I run around and photograph
all people with holes in their sneakers.
173
00:10:03,870 --> 00:10:04,962
It's not that at all.
174
00:10:05,072 --> 00:10:07,040
Suddenly I see something,
then I see it again,
175
00:10:07,140 --> 00:10:10,337
and I think, "Ah, there's an idea,"
and other times I'll see it and I'll think,
176
00:10:10,444 --> 00:10:12,776
"Wow, that's an idea,"
and then I'll look for it.
177
00:10:12,879 --> 00:10:16,747
But I'll be doing ten other ideas
all at once, you see.
178
00:10:37,638 --> 00:10:39,538
They make the best sandwich.
179
00:10:43,076 --> 00:10:47,445
And coffee... three dollars.
The cheaper the better, you know?
180
00:10:47,547 --> 00:10:50,948
The coffee at the Times,
l... I... It's so... ugh.
181
00:11:11,304 --> 00:11:14,705
My cord kept coming out of the
camera last night. Oh, yeah?
182
00:11:14,808 --> 00:11:16,742
So I've been worried sick.
183
00:11:17,844 --> 00:11:20,472
But I got something,
any rate, on that roll.
184
00:11:20,580 --> 00:11:22,343
We'll see about the others.
185
00:11:30,290 --> 00:11:32,349
Do you know
anything about his personal life?
186
00:11:32,459 --> 00:11:33,892
Nothing.
Nothing.
187
00:11:33,994 --> 00:11:35,359
Absolutely nothing.
188
00:11:39,132 --> 00:11:41,862
I don't think anybody
gets to know him very well, do they?
189
00:11:41,968 --> 00:11:46,598
I have the feeling that he doesn't sit down
to talk to people too much.
190
00:11:49,643 --> 00:11:51,873
I have no
idea about his private life.
191
00:11:51,978 --> 00:11:56,074
I have no idea if he's lonely. I have no idea...
Where does he eat dinner every night?
192
00:11:56,183 --> 00:11:58,208
You have no id...
I mean, I don't.
193
00:11:58,318 --> 00:12:00,582
I wonder, you know,
what he does do.
194
00:12:23,410 --> 00:12:25,935
For all the years
that I've known Bill,
195
00:12:26,046 --> 00:12:27,638
he's lived at Carnegie Hall...
196
00:12:27,748 --> 00:12:30,876
in a tiny, tiny room.
197
00:12:30,984 --> 00:12:34,511
You know, I once went to his studio.
Have you been there? Oh, my God.
198
00:12:34,621 --> 00:12:36,486
When I saw that,
I was just, like, wow.
199
00:12:37,758 --> 00:12:41,057
File cabinets,
file cabinets, file cabinets.
200
00:12:41,161 --> 00:12:43,823
He has negatives
of every picture he's ever taken.
201
00:12:47,334 --> 00:12:49,359
That's my filing system.
202
00:12:50,804 --> 00:12:51,771
Okay.
203
00:12:54,541 --> 00:12:56,031
And this is my clothes closet.
204
00:12:59,713 --> 00:13:01,146
Does he still sleep on the cabinets?
205
00:13:01,248 --> 00:13:03,978
It's just like it was
just all a little room...
206
00:13:04,084 --> 00:13:06,609
with all these file cabinets
and negatives,
207
00:13:06,720 --> 00:13:09,917
and that was probably
30 years ago.
208
00:13:10,023 --> 00:13:12,958
I know that the bathroom
was in the hall.
209
00:13:20,300 --> 00:13:21,995
Editta?
210
00:13:22,102 --> 00:13:24,593
Come in.
211
00:13:24,704 --> 00:13:26,296
I've been here 60 years.
212
00:13:26,406 --> 00:13:28,533
Carnegie Hall.
213
00:13:28,642 --> 00:13:30,041
And I'm
he only one here...
214
00:13:30,143 --> 00:13:33,203
except Bill on this floor,
you know.
215
00:13:33,313 --> 00:13:35,008
I've done...
This is fabulous.
216
00:13:35,115 --> 00:13:37,640
All the stars of Hollywood.
217
00:13:37,751 --> 00:13:39,184
Yes.
Well, I'm very famous.
218
00:13:39,286 --> 00:13:41,311
Look at the people I've done. Look.
219
00:13:41,421 --> 00:13:44,857
Tyrone Power,
Henry Fonda, Mary Martin.
220
00:13:44,958 --> 00:13:46,391
Let's see.
221
00:13:46,493 --> 00:13:48,120
Andy Warhol here.
222
00:13:48,228 --> 00:13:50,992
You can't photograph that.
223
00:13:51,097 --> 00:13:52,325
Just you.
224
00:13:52,432 --> 00:13:54,024
Not this. Not Andy.
225
00:13:54,134 --> 00:13:56,193
Why not?
Because not.
226
00:13:56,303 --> 00:13:59,739
What do you mean you can't
photograph Andy Warhol?
227
00:13:59,840 --> 00:14:00,898
Who are you kidding?
228
00:14:01,007 --> 00:14:03,134
What do you mean?
That's what he was all about.
229
00:14:03,243 --> 00:14:05,006
What?
Being photographed.
230
00:14:05,111 --> 00:14:07,204
I just sold two to China.
231
00:14:07,314 --> 00:14:11,080
This is, uh, Bernstein,
232
00:14:11,184 --> 00:14:14,051
and he lived here in Carnegie Hall.
233
00:14:14,154 --> 00:14:16,019
June Carter.
234
00:14:16,122 --> 00:14:17,419
See, this is, uh...
235
00:14:17,524 --> 00:14:19,219
You know who she is.
236
00:14:19,326 --> 00:14:20,953
Oh, Tilda Swinton?
Yes!
237
00:14:21,061 --> 00:14:22,358
Tilda Swinton.
Swinton.
238
00:14:22,462 --> 00:14:25,363
Isn't that nice? Mm-hmm.
239
00:14:25,465 --> 00:14:26,830
I was here 60 years.
240
00:14:26,933 --> 00:14:30,334
I'm...
I'm really a, uh, a legend now.
241
00:14:30,437 --> 00:14:31,768
A legend or a fixture?
242
00:14:31,872 --> 00:14:33,840
Well, I'm both,
you know what I mean?
243
00:14:36,209 --> 00:14:37,938
Does Bill live next door?
244
00:14:38,044 --> 00:14:39,978
He's down on the corner.
245
00:14:40,080 --> 00:14:42,605
He's got a tiny little place, yeah.
246
00:14:42,716 --> 00:14:44,183
It's nothing.
247
00:14:44,284 --> 00:14:47,617
By the way,
this is Lesley Vinson,
248
00:14:47,721 --> 00:14:52,249
and Lesley was the art director
of Details Magazine.
249
00:14:52,359 --> 00:14:54,793
The original Details
with Annie Flanders.
250
00:14:54,895 --> 00:14:56,328
We worked well together.
251
00:14:56,429 --> 00:15:00,160
She took me on and didn't mind
how many changes I made...
252
00:15:00,267 --> 00:15:02,394
or how many pictures
I wanted to put in.
253
00:15:02,502 --> 00:15:04,868
The most extraordinary
art director.
254
00:15:04,971 --> 00:15:06,802
Incredible. Um...
255
00:15:06,907 --> 00:15:08,932
The love of Bill's life,
I think.
256
00:15:09,175 --> 00:15:16,581
Details got started
on the ides of March 1982.
257
00:15:16,683 --> 00:15:18,742
The reason I remember that date...
258
00:15:18,852 --> 00:15:22,253
was it was the date that the SoHo
News went out of business.
259
00:15:22,355 --> 00:15:26,416
The vision that I had for Details
was really a continuation...
260
00:15:26,526 --> 00:15:29,757
of what I had been doing
at SoHo News,
261
00:15:29,863 --> 00:15:34,527
discovering people and giving them
their first opportunity to be in print.
262
00:15:34,634 --> 00:15:38,968
The reason Annie founded
the magazine was to give a platform...
263
00:15:39,072 --> 00:15:43,168
to the downtown,
independent, small designers,
264
00:15:43,276 --> 00:15:46,803
who no one else would pay attention
to until they were successful...
265
00:15:46,913 --> 00:15:49,473
and then steal them from Annie.
266
00:15:49,582 --> 00:15:53,040
Oh, Annie was the Earth mother
of downtown.
267
00:15:53,153 --> 00:15:56,987
I don't know if that's
what you called it. Oh, definitely.
268
00:15:57,090 --> 00:15:59,320
Annie would just give Bill like...
Here's a hundred pages,
269
00:15:59,426 --> 00:16:02,657
and Bill flourished with Annie
more than ever anywhere.
270
00:16:02,762 --> 00:16:07,096
It was like she almost gave him his own little
mini magazine just to do it however he wanted.
271
00:16:07,200 --> 00:16:09,760
He'd work all day,
and he'd come up at night,
272
00:16:09,869 --> 00:16:12,702
and our sessions usually lasted
till about 4:00 in the morning.
273
00:16:12,806 --> 00:16:15,036
I worked for the Establishment
during the day,
274
00:16:15,141 --> 00:16:20,306
so I was like a bird getting out
of a cage, and I'd go down there.
275
00:16:20,413 --> 00:16:21,971
It was marvelous.
276
00:16:44,537 --> 00:16:47,938
I would come after my job
at the Times,
277
00:16:48,041 --> 00:16:52,137
and we would lay this out,
and then I'd go home about 2:00.
278
00:16:52,245 --> 00:16:54,907
Biked back from SoHo
where we were.
279
00:16:55,015 --> 00:16:58,348
I think one Details
Magazine, it was Fall Special...
280
00:16:58,451 --> 00:17:01,579
125 pages of Bill Cunningham.
281
00:17:01,688 --> 00:17:03,383
A hundred pages?
282
00:17:03,490 --> 00:17:05,617
Ninety-nine.
Ninety-nine pages.
283
00:17:05,725 --> 00:17:07,716
We just...
We never thought of it.
284
00:17:07,827 --> 00:17:11,763
We just went on and did what we wanted
till we had said what we wanted to say.
285
00:17:11,865 --> 00:17:13,992
111 pages.
111 pages.
286
00:17:14,100 --> 00:17:17,763
Here what I did was I blew up
the embroidery of the coat,
287
00:17:17,871 --> 00:17:19,338
and we put it on the pages,
288
00:17:19,439 --> 00:17:21,999
and then put the coat, small,
in the middle of it,
289
00:17:22,108 --> 00:17:23,541
'cause the news was in...
290
00:17:23,643 --> 00:17:26,009
Yeah, the idea was
the big... was this.
291
00:17:26,112 --> 00:17:29,275
'Cause it was like something
out of the Renaissance, you see?
292
00:17:29,382 --> 00:17:32,078
You try to show the reader
what was really new.
293
00:17:32,185 --> 00:17:37,122
Look at this. It's like something
from Paul Poiret, uh, 1910.
294
00:17:37,223 --> 00:17:40,590
Scheherazade,
the Arabian Nights.
295
00:17:40,693 --> 00:17:44,356
Look at the embroidery,
the tassels, the lace.
296
00:17:44,464 --> 00:17:47,228
Now, I mean, can you imagine
the extravagance of these pages?
297
00:17:47,333 --> 00:17:49,130
Annie Flanders never blinked.
298
00:17:49,235 --> 00:17:50,793
You can't say anything, Annie.
299
00:17:50,904 --> 00:17:53,498
I didn't take money,
so I can do what I want.
300
00:17:53,606 --> 00:17:57,770
It's a wonder she didn't say,
"That didn't mean you can bankrupt me."
301
00:17:57,877 --> 00:18:00,437
What I did
from the very first issue...
302
00:18:00,547 --> 00:18:04,074
is I kept a list of how much
Bill would've gotten paid.
303
00:18:04,184 --> 00:18:08,985
Well, the first check I sent him, he came in
the office and ceremoniously ripped it up.
304
00:18:09,089 --> 00:18:11,649
The second check,
he did the same thing.
305
00:18:11,758 --> 00:18:15,717
You see, if you don't take money,
they can't tell you what to do, kid.
306
00:18:15,829 --> 00:18:18,889
That's... That's the key
to the whole thing.
307
00:18:18,998 --> 00:18:20,522
Don't touch money.
308
00:18:20,633 --> 00:18:22,464
It's the worst thing
you can do.
309
00:18:22,569 --> 00:18:24,662
There's a story
about the fact that Bill,
310
00:18:24,771 --> 00:18:27,239
when you sold Details
to Cond� Nast,
311
00:18:27,340 --> 00:18:30,832
Bill refused to cash his check.
Yes.
312
00:18:30,944 --> 00:18:34,471
And Si Newhouse was calling you
like every couple of months...
313
00:18:34,581 --> 00:18:36,742
to say,
"Bill, your check is waiting."
314
00:18:36,850 --> 00:18:38,715
Cond� Nast bought it?
Yes, yes.
315
00:18:38,818 --> 00:18:40,877
Newhouse bought it
a year ago.
316
00:18:40,987 --> 00:18:43,217
Well, Newhouse is
taking the money.
317
00:18:43,323 --> 00:18:45,348
Yeah, but they don't
own me, you see.
318
00:18:45,458 --> 00:18:47,790
They don't own you.
319
00:18:47,894 --> 00:18:49,862
That's the important thing,
never to be owned.
320
00:18:49,963 --> 00:18:52,693
I know they don't own you.
I know they don't own you.
321
00:18:52,799 --> 00:18:54,198
Money's the cheapest thing.
322
00:18:54,300 --> 00:18:56,928
Liberty and freedom
is the most expensive.
323
00:18:58,238 --> 00:19:00,365
No, you know
what I mean, Richard.
324
00:19:00,473 --> 00:19:05,706
So you asked me... about not falling
into the traps of the rich.
325
00:19:07,347 --> 00:19:14,378
I would think it was my first, uh, partner
in my fashion business.
326
00:19:15,555 --> 00:19:17,955
A woman by the name
of Rebekah Harkness,
327
00:19:18,057 --> 00:19:19,888
a very affluent New York family,
328
00:19:19,993 --> 00:19:23,952
and she was looking to invest
in my hat shop and she did.
329
00:19:24,063 --> 00:19:28,500
But then the army came along...
this is 1951...
330
00:19:28,601 --> 00:19:30,091
I was drafted.
331
00:19:30,203 --> 00:19:35,539
Well, they were appalled that I would go,
and their investment would be on hold.
332
00:19:35,642 --> 00:19:36,904
Who knows what would happen?
333
00:19:37,010 --> 00:19:38,375
I was appalled at them.
334
00:19:38,478 --> 00:19:40,639
I thought, "You're drafted.
335
00:19:40,747 --> 00:19:45,548
This is the country where you live,
who you are. You go. "
336
00:19:45,652 --> 00:19:47,813
Well, they couldn't understand that at all.
337
00:19:47,921 --> 00:19:51,220
Course I went in the army.
I wouldn't think otherwise.
338
00:19:51,324 --> 00:19:54,418
They badgered me and they badgered
my family, and finally...
339
00:19:54,527 --> 00:19:57,087
my aunt and uncle,
whom I lived with here in the city,
340
00:19:57,197 --> 00:20:01,190
I think they returned the money
she had invested which... God...
341
00:20:01,301 --> 00:20:03,360
Maybe it was a thousand dollars?
342
00:20:03,469 --> 00:20:05,699
Which was a lot of money then.
343
00:20:05,805 --> 00:20:10,037
To the Harkness family, I don't think
a thousand dollars was a lot of money.
344
00:20:10,143 --> 00:20:12,907
Oh, they tried to have it...
I know what it was...
345
00:20:13,012 --> 00:20:16,140
deducted from my army salary,
346
00:20:16,249 --> 00:20:21,084
which would have taken about ten years,
'cause I don't know what you made...
347
00:20:21,187 --> 00:20:24,645
You got paid maybe $90 a month
or something like that.
348
00:20:24,757 --> 00:20:26,782
Some stupidity.
349
00:20:26,893 --> 00:20:28,656
So my family paid it off,
350
00:20:28,761 --> 00:20:31,730
and then when I got out of the army,
I paid my family back.
351
00:21:07,467 --> 00:21:08,957
Don't take a picture of us.
352
00:21:09,068 --> 00:21:11,229
I'll break that
fucking camera over your head.
353
00:21:18,177 --> 00:21:19,769
Yeah, he wanted...
he wanted me...
354
00:21:19,879 --> 00:21:21,744
to come up
and meet my replacement.
355
00:21:21,848 --> 00:21:23,338
Your replacement.
Your...
356
00:21:23,449 --> 00:21:25,178
Yes, you passed
on the torch to me.
357
00:21:25,285 --> 00:21:26,411
You're just a trophy wife.
358
00:21:26,519 --> 00:21:27,952
I was always there
at the beginning.
359
00:21:28,054 --> 00:21:29,954
I've showed her
some of your layouts.
360
00:21:30,056 --> 00:21:32,752
Oh, you teaching, uh...
Uh, I don't teach.
361
00:21:32,859 --> 00:21:35,123
Muffin or is she teaching you?
She's teaching me.
362
00:21:35,228 --> 00:21:37,788
Now, see, you made those
too big, those flowers.
363
00:21:37,897 --> 00:21:40,127
What flowers?
See, that's... that's too big.
364
00:21:40,233 --> 00:21:41,700
Where's the love today, Bill?
365
00:21:41,801 --> 00:21:44,269
Love? Just get the page done.
Show 'em where the love is, Bill.
366
00:21:44,370 --> 00:21:46,702
Show 'em where the love is, right?
Just get the page done.
367
00:21:46,806 --> 00:21:49,297
Winchester.
Winchester.
368
00:21:49,409 --> 00:21:52,469
And he means the gun
off the back shelf of the pickup truck.
369
00:21:52,578 --> 00:21:54,876
John, let me see this one here.
370
00:21:54,981 --> 00:21:58,849
Put your favorite up here.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
371
00:21:58,951 --> 00:22:00,919
You see, it's a little
short coat in here.
372
00:22:01,020 --> 00:22:02,112
Don't encourage him.
373
00:22:02,221 --> 00:22:04,121
The good thing is he can't
hear me talking about him.
374
00:22:04,223 --> 00:22:05,884
Maybe 190.
I don't know what it was.
375
00:22:05,992 --> 00:22:08,620
Then all of a sudden,
when I don't think he can hear me,
376
00:22:08,728 --> 00:22:10,286
he hears me perfectly well.
What?
377
00:22:10,396 --> 00:22:12,591
Bill's fingerprints are all over
everything he does,
378
00:22:12,699 --> 00:22:17,466
'cause he's never ever, ever sold out
one inch of anything.
379
00:22:17,570 --> 00:22:20,164
When the hat business
was sort of sloughing off,
380
00:22:20,273 --> 00:22:22,867
he was working
for Women's Wear Daily as a...
381
00:22:22,975 --> 00:22:24,806
Writing a millinery column.
382
00:22:24,911 --> 00:22:28,813
Part of his falling out with
Women's Wear Daily...
383
00:22:28,915 --> 00:22:30,473
hadn't to do
with anything really big.
384
00:22:30,583 --> 00:22:32,744
It had to do with this
ethical issue for him,
385
00:22:32,852 --> 00:22:37,915
which was that many of his photographs
were being used for an "In and Out" list,
386
00:22:38,024 --> 00:22:43,052
and his feeling is that
it's all equally in.
387
00:22:43,162 --> 00:22:44,993
That's the reason he's documenting it.
388
00:22:45,098 --> 00:22:47,259
He's incredibly kind.
389
00:22:47,367 --> 00:22:51,326
I don't think we've ever seen
a cruel picture done by Bill,
390
00:22:51,437 --> 00:22:57,342
and certainly he's had an opportunity
to really have done it.
391
00:22:57,443 --> 00:22:59,673
He's chosen never to do it.
392
00:22:59,779 --> 00:23:01,542
He was still working
at Women's Wear,
393
00:23:01,647 --> 00:23:05,083
and he did a piece
on women on the street...
394
00:23:05,184 --> 00:23:08,278
in the same clothes
as the models on the runway.
395
00:23:08,388 --> 00:23:12,324
It was about how incredible women
had their own style...
396
00:23:12,425 --> 00:23:14,916
and what they could do
with the clothes, side by side...
397
00:23:15,027 --> 00:23:17,188
with what the designers did
on the runway,
398
00:23:17,296 --> 00:23:21,960
and they changed his copy
to make fun of the women.
399
00:23:22,068 --> 00:23:27,005
This idea of a valuation of one person
over another, or one image over another,
400
00:23:27,106 --> 00:23:29,802
was not something
that he really subscribes to as a person.
401
00:23:29,909 --> 00:23:32,002
He was so beyond upset.
402
00:23:32,111 --> 00:23:36,047
It was so sad and it...
403
00:23:36,149 --> 00:23:37,946
He didn't think he'd ever get over it,
404
00:23:38,050 --> 00:23:40,883
because he was
so embarrassed and upset...
405
00:23:40,987 --> 00:23:44,548
and really cared about the women
that he had put in this...
406
00:23:44,657 --> 00:23:46,989
in this and what happened.
407
00:23:47,093 --> 00:23:49,721
That was the end of his career
at Women's Wear Daily.
408
00:23:49,829 --> 00:23:52,024
Yeah, she's lovely.
409
00:23:53,499 --> 00:23:55,694
Jesus, what'd she...
Just get a garbage bag?
410
00:23:55,802 --> 00:24:00,068
Rubbish bag. Looks like she's
in a rose, a black rose.
411
00:24:00,173 --> 00:24:01,970
It's a garbage bag.
412
00:24:02,074 --> 00:24:03,974
What the hell
you talking about a rose?
413
00:24:04,076 --> 00:24:06,510
What would you people
from southern New Jersey know?
414
00:24:06,612 --> 00:24:08,910
Oh-ho.
Beautiful woman.
415
00:24:09,015 --> 00:24:11,108
These two are exquisite. Look at them.
416
00:24:11,217 --> 00:24:13,549
It's really
hard to describe oneself...
417
00:24:13,653 --> 00:24:16,986
because I think one lives very often
in other people's visions.
418
00:24:17,089 --> 00:24:22,117
I see myself as the world's oldest living
teenager 'cause I have such a good time,
419
00:24:22,228 --> 00:24:25,823
and I try to get as much kick
out of things as possible.
420
00:24:25,932 --> 00:24:29,424
I have all my little animals, who,
by the way, are very jealous of me,
421
00:24:29,535 --> 00:24:32,527
and so I have to give them jewelry...
otherwise they bite.
422
00:24:32,638 --> 00:24:37,075
I always heard growing up that
Joan Crawford said that...
423
00:24:37,176 --> 00:24:39,906
whenever she went out,
she had to go out as Joan Crawford.
424
00:24:40,012 --> 00:24:43,641
So I took that to heart, and whenever I
go out, I have to be Patrick McDonald.
425
00:24:43,749 --> 00:24:46,912
I have to be the dandy,
and I would never go out...
426
00:24:47,019 --> 00:24:49,920
without my beauty mark,
my eyebrows, my hat.
427
00:24:50,022 --> 00:24:51,387
I would never do that.
428
00:24:51,491 --> 00:24:52,788
We're all canvases.
429
00:24:52,892 --> 00:24:56,726
We're all blank canvases when we get up
in the morning, and we paint ourselves.
430
00:24:56,829 --> 00:24:58,694
Sometimes we're surreal.
431
00:24:58,798 --> 00:25:01,790
Sometimes we're impressionistic.
Sometimes we're modern.
432
00:25:01,901 --> 00:25:03,801
It... It just depends on the day.
433
00:25:03,903 --> 00:25:09,136
This is my, uh,
alphabet outfit, and,
434
00:25:09,242 --> 00:25:13,474
this is another of,
uh, my... my clothing...
435
00:25:13,579 --> 00:25:17,140
that appeared in "On the Street"
column of Bill Cunningham.
436
00:25:17,250 --> 00:25:19,081
I call it "Awning Stripes."
437
00:25:19,185 --> 00:25:21,585
A Scottish plaid outfit.
438
00:25:21,687 --> 00:25:24,247
I don't know which clan
it belongs to.
439
00:25:24,357 --> 00:25:29,761
When I wear this outfit, people smile, and
it kind of cheers them up a little bit.
440
00:25:29,862 --> 00:25:33,730
This is one of my other
lollipop salesman's outfit.
441
00:25:33,833 --> 00:25:36,700
A combination of different plaids
from Scotland.
442
00:25:40,373 --> 00:25:44,275
This used to be
my old sofa, the jacket,
443
00:25:44,377 --> 00:25:47,437
and my pants was...
used to be my ottoman.
444
00:25:47,547 --> 00:25:51,950
These are, uh, the issues
from my appearances...
445
00:25:52,051 --> 00:25:54,679
in Bill Cunningham's
"On the Street" column.
446
00:25:54,787 --> 00:26:01,351
They're laminated so that this will
preserve it for, uh, my grandchildren.
447
00:26:01,460 --> 00:26:04,623
Put this one
in the upper right-hand corner.
448
00:26:04,730 --> 00:26:06,425
Give me these two together.
449
00:26:06,532 --> 00:26:07,897
Lap them together.
Together.
450
00:26:09,869 --> 00:26:12,633
Uh, put the dog back where
the cab is for the minute.
451
00:26:12,738 --> 00:26:15,229
Let me see them again, John.
452
00:26:15,341 --> 00:26:16,865
Now don't get angry.
453
00:26:16,976 --> 00:26:18,341
Jiggle the mouse.
454
00:26:18,444 --> 00:26:20,639
I'm going to jiggle you
right out that damn window.
455
00:26:20,746 --> 00:26:23,271
Why don't you go get your film,
so I can straighten this out?
456
00:26:23,382 --> 00:26:26,317
No, I will. Put it back.
As soon as I get exactly what I want.
457
00:26:26,419 --> 00:26:29,252
Oh, Jesus, give me
strength to deal with you today.
458
00:26:29,355 --> 00:26:33,985
Oh, and we gotta leave room for that damn
three or four lines Web site, some nonsense.
459
00:26:34,093 --> 00:26:37,961
Look at now. They've got the audio
thing going at the Times,
460
00:26:38,064 --> 00:26:41,556
which they pushed me into, and they said,
"Well, a lot of people don't read the paper."
461
00:26:41,667 --> 00:26:44,727
I said, "Okay, I'll do it.
Where do we do it?"
462
00:26:49,976 --> 00:26:51,841
Oh, no, no, no, no, no.
463
00:26:51,944 --> 00:26:53,502
This is...
He's getting in a zone.
464
00:26:53,613 --> 00:26:57,140
I just go in the room and
say what's on my mind and that's it.
465
00:26:57,249 --> 00:26:58,511
It's done in five minutes.
466
00:26:58,618 --> 00:27:00,381
Okay. Yeah.
467
00:27:00,486 --> 00:27:04,081
Uh, this is Bill Cunningham,
and "On the Street" this week...
468
00:27:04,190 --> 00:27:08,251
... there's no question
black is the story this week.
469
00:27:08,361 --> 00:27:13,924
Here we are, the first week in August, and
the New Yorkers are all in black clothes.
470
00:27:14,033 --> 00:27:19,061
This is Bill Cunningham, and "On the
Street"this week is a very interesting...
471
00:27:19,171 --> 00:27:21,537
Isn't it always?
But it really is.
472
00:27:21,641 --> 00:27:24,235
The picture frame collar.
473
00:27:24,343 --> 00:27:29,975
There was the most popular T-shirt this
summer was printed with multiple sunglasses.
474
00:27:30,082 --> 00:27:34,109
There's no reason to be doom and gloom
and think that fashion is finished.
475
00:27:34,220 --> 00:27:36,620
Just reach back into your closet...
476
00:27:36,722 --> 00:27:38,622
I call it "the thin man."
477
00:27:38,724 --> 00:27:41,090
It's a serious way of dressing.
478
00:27:41,193 --> 00:27:45,459
They've got something going here,
and I thought it was serious enough...
479
00:27:45,564 --> 00:27:47,361
for you to take a look at.
480
00:27:47,466 --> 00:27:49,866
Thank you very much,
and I hope you enjoy it.
481
00:28:00,246 --> 00:28:01,645
Hmm.
482
00:28:01,747 --> 00:28:04,910
Okay, move it all over and take this woman
and put her in the corner.
483
00:28:05,017 --> 00:28:06,416
Yeah, that's nice.
484
00:28:06,519 --> 00:28:07,747
I think it's all right.
485
00:28:07,853 --> 00:28:09,047
That's not bad.
486
00:28:09,155 --> 00:28:11,055
You want me to order
your lunch today?
487
00:28:11,157 --> 00:28:13,717
I beg pardon?
Do you want me to order you in lunch?
488
00:28:13,826 --> 00:28:15,953
Oh. Lunch.
No. Soup, you know.
489
00:28:16,062 --> 00:28:17,359
I'm not thinking about lunch.
490
00:28:17,463 --> 00:28:18,794
No. I know what we need.
491
00:28:18,898 --> 00:28:21,560
What? Yeah. It's all right.
No, leave everything alone.
492
00:28:21,667 --> 00:28:26,366
Uh, put her here,
and put her over here.
493
00:28:26,472 --> 00:28:28,702
Yes. There it is. You got it.
494
00:28:28,808 --> 00:28:32,539
See, the hair, the same gesture,
the wind. Wonderful.
495
00:28:32,645 --> 00:28:37,014
If you examine his pictures,
he always is focused on some detail...
496
00:28:37,116 --> 00:28:43,055
or some narrative or conceptual thing
that he's documenting.
497
00:28:45,124 --> 00:28:47,422
Do you like
that we're dressed alike, Bill?
498
00:28:47,526 --> 00:28:49,858
I said, do you like it that
we're dressed alike? Mm-hmm.
499
00:28:49,962 --> 00:28:51,930
We've been hanging around
with each other for 60 years.
500
00:28:52,031 --> 00:28:54,090
That's great.
We went to high school together.
501
00:28:54,200 --> 00:28:56,168
That's great. Yeah. Terrific.
502
00:28:56,268 --> 00:28:57,394
And we never
had a fight.
503
00:28:57,503 --> 00:28:59,130
Oh, good.
That's better.
504
00:28:59,238 --> 00:29:01,798
That's better.
There's enough people fighting.
505
00:29:01,907 --> 00:29:04,876
Watch these
crazy cabdrivers.
506
00:29:04,977 --> 00:29:06,205
Okay, good-bye.
507
00:29:18,724 --> 00:29:23,024
So his photographs,
rather than just paparazzi shots,
508
00:29:23,129 --> 00:29:29,295
are really evidence of what fashion is
at any given moment in the world.
509
00:29:30,903 --> 00:29:36,341
His archive is really not just
an encapsulation of fashion,
510
00:29:36,442 --> 00:29:37,875
but of New York life,
511
00:29:37,977 --> 00:29:40,775
and I think it's wonderful
for fashion historians...
512
00:29:40,880 --> 00:29:42,404
that this did happen...
513
00:29:42,515 --> 00:29:44,949
That there was this
one individual...
514
00:29:45,050 --> 00:29:46,745
who was willing
to dedicate his life...
515
00:29:46,852 --> 00:29:49,616
to this fascinating
manifestation of culture.
516
00:30:16,849 --> 00:30:18,510
It's not photography.
517
00:30:18,617 --> 00:30:22,018
I mean, any real photographer
would say he's a fraud.
518
00:30:22,121 --> 00:30:23,213
Well, they're right.
519
00:30:23,322 --> 00:30:27,588
I'm just about capturing what I see
and documenting what I see.
520
00:30:27,693 --> 00:30:28,921
Ah!
521
00:30:30,462 --> 00:30:34,330
I mean, is he Horst?
Put a bunch of flowers in front of you?
522
00:30:34,433 --> 00:30:38,130
No. He's not that,
but that's not what he wants to be.
523
00:30:38,237 --> 00:30:40,637
I think he photographs life.
524
00:30:46,545 --> 00:30:52,916
The parallel between the emerging
japanese designers in the early '80s...
525
00:30:53,018 --> 00:30:54,645
and the bag people in New York...
526
00:30:54,753 --> 00:30:57,153
was startling, astonishing.
527
00:30:57,256 --> 00:31:00,191
No one would talk about it
or even show the pictures.
528
00:31:00,292 --> 00:31:02,954
And as time went on,
529
00:31:03,062 --> 00:31:05,826
the Japanese woman
Rei Kawakubo admitted...
530
00:31:05,931 --> 00:31:07,558
that her inspiration...
531
00:31:07,666 --> 00:31:10,601
That when someone said, "Who do you
think are the best-dressed women?"
532
00:31:10,703 --> 00:31:12,534
And she said,
"The bag women in New York."
533
00:31:12,638 --> 00:31:15,368
Now whether she was being facetious
or cynical...
534
00:31:15,474 --> 00:31:18,966
or a real artist and saying
what she really thought,
535
00:31:19,078 --> 00:31:23,447
you know, we're too close
to a very touchy subject.
536
00:31:23,549 --> 00:31:25,949
But as a historian, uh,
537
00:31:26,051 --> 00:31:31,045
what we see in New York
in the 1980s in some areas...
538
00:31:31,156 --> 00:31:34,489
is close to medieval Europe.
539
00:31:34,593 --> 00:31:38,256
The shapes, I mean, of these people.
540
00:31:50,409 --> 00:31:52,468
Didn't someone
give you your first camera?
541
00:31:52,578 --> 00:31:58,278
David Montgomery, an American photographer
who lived and worked in London.
542
00:31:58,384 --> 00:32:02,411
We were there at his home with
his wife and all for dinner one night.
543
00:32:02,521 --> 00:32:07,720
I said, "Gee, do you have an assistant
who could take a picture for me tomorrow?"
544
00:32:07,826 --> 00:32:09,691
Some fashion shop, I mentioned.
545
00:32:09,795 --> 00:32:14,061
And... Yes,
he sent one of his assistants out.
546
00:32:14,166 --> 00:32:17,192
And then when he came to New York
about three months later,
547
00:32:17,303 --> 00:32:19,032
he said,
"Here, I brought you something."
548
00:32:19,138 --> 00:32:23,438
He said, "Use it like a pen,
like you take notes.
549
00:32:23,542 --> 00:32:24,975
Do it with a camera."
550
00:32:25,077 --> 00:32:28,672
A little Olympus half-frame.
They were $39,
551
00:32:28,781 --> 00:32:33,309
and you got 72 pictures
to a 36 roll of...
552
00:32:33,419 --> 00:32:37,321
Frame roll of film
so I liked that even better.
553
00:32:37,423 --> 00:32:40,586
One of the interesting
things about street style...
554
00:32:40,693 --> 00:32:44,129
is that it emerged
at the same point...
555
00:32:44,229 --> 00:32:48,427
that, um, Bill got a camera.
556
00:32:49,535 --> 00:32:54,268
And by street style, I'm talking about fashions
that really did emerge from the street.
557
00:32:54,373 --> 00:32:58,810
There was always a sense
of a kind of quotidian world...
558
00:32:58,911 --> 00:33:03,871
that one sees in photographs that were done
at the turn of the century, for example,
559
00:33:03,983 --> 00:33:08,010
by the Seeberger brothers, or different
people who were documenting the bon monde,
560
00:33:08,120 --> 00:33:14,457
but it wasn't really street style in that it
wasn't, theoretically, "ordinary" people,
561
00:33:14,560 --> 00:33:19,156
going about their business
dressed in fascinating ways.
562
00:33:19,264 --> 00:33:25,134
That really begins to happen in the 1960s,
and that is the moment which Bill begins.
563
00:33:25,237 --> 00:33:26,795
On an Easter Sunday,
564
00:33:26,905 --> 00:33:29,897
I came back here to get film,
565
00:33:30,009 --> 00:33:31,977
and the phone rang
and I picked it up,
566
00:33:32,077 --> 00:33:39,950
and it was the Times fashion critic and editorial
writer Charlotte Curtis, who I knew very well.
567
00:33:40,052 --> 00:33:45,490
And she said, "Bill, grab your cameras and get
up to the Sheep Meadow as quick as you can.
568
00:33:45,591 --> 00:33:47,081
They're having a be-in."
569
00:33:47,192 --> 00:33:48,853
What the hell is a be-in?
570
00:33:48,961 --> 00:33:52,419
I jumped on my bike
and went up to the Sheep Meadow,
571
00:33:52,531 --> 00:33:55,762
and there were thousands of kids.
572
00:33:55,868 --> 00:34:00,862
Oh! I mean, you just never saw
anything like it.
573
00:34:00,973 --> 00:34:06,570
All the flower children,
the hippies, everything,
574
00:34:06,678 --> 00:34:09,010
All up there,
and it was a lovely day,
575
00:34:09,114 --> 00:34:12,777
and they were lying on the grass
or the dirt or whatever it was,
576
00:34:12,885 --> 00:34:15,285
and they were dressed.
577
00:34:15,387 --> 00:34:16,854
It was marvelous,
578
00:34:16,955 --> 00:34:18,650
and that really did me in.
579
00:34:18,757 --> 00:34:20,782
From then on, that was it, kid.
580
00:34:20,893 --> 00:34:22,520
My Sundays and Saturdays...
581
00:34:22,628 --> 00:34:27,088
Saturdays down in SoHo, and Sundays up in the park...
were completely taken.
582
00:34:27,199 --> 00:34:28,257
That was it.
583
00:34:28,367 --> 00:34:35,739
Course, as Antonio said, "Yep, and you
photographed everything in black and white,
584
00:34:35,841 --> 00:34:37,934
and it was all about color."
585
00:34:40,012 --> 00:34:45,575
Course he was right, but I couldn't
afford color film and developing...
586
00:34:45,684 --> 00:34:47,982
so it's in black and white.
587
00:34:49,455 --> 00:34:51,923
Oh, boy. Someday,
it's all gonna fall down on me.
588
00:34:52,024 --> 00:34:54,424
I know. I don't even
want to think about that. My God.
589
00:34:54,526 --> 00:34:58,622
If I disappear under a bunch of books,
you'll know what...
590
00:34:58,730 --> 00:34:59,924
They're all fashion books.
591
00:35:00,032 --> 00:35:02,159
Imagine me having to move
the end of June?
592
00:35:02,267 --> 00:35:06,636
I thought it was just open-end.
That at some time, people would have to move out of here.
593
00:35:06,738 --> 00:35:10,174
Is there a specific date when you have to leave?
Yeah, June 30th. So they say.
594
00:35:10,275 --> 00:35:12,766
Bill, that's like in two
or three months. Hmm?
595
00:35:12,878 --> 00:35:17,338
The battle against a plan to evict artists
who live and work at Carnegie Hall...
596
00:35:17,449 --> 00:35:19,917
was taken to the steps
of city hall today.
597
00:35:20,018 --> 00:35:24,114
Over the years, the studios have seen the likes
of Marlon Brando and Leonard Bernstein.
598
00:35:24,223 --> 00:35:28,421
Now the remaining tenants at Carnegie
Hall are turning to the mayor for help.
599
00:35:28,527 --> 00:35:30,620
CBS 2's Andrew Kirtzman reports.
600
00:35:30,729 --> 00:35:32,492
Today, residents
gathered at City Hall...
601
00:35:32,598 --> 00:35:35,260
with actor John Turturro
as their champion.
602
00:35:35,367 --> 00:35:39,326
They want Mayor Bloomberg to step in,
since the city owns Carnegie Hall.
603
00:35:39,438 --> 00:35:44,637
Not far away, the concert hall's artistic director
held his own City Hall press conference.
604
00:35:44,743 --> 00:35:48,679
Their work... It is perfectly possible
for them to do somewhere else.
605
00:35:48,780 --> 00:35:51,078
The work of Carnegie Hall,
and the work of music...
606
00:35:51,183 --> 00:35:54,448
and our contribution to the city,
has to come from Carnegie Hall.
607
00:35:54,553 --> 00:35:58,956
City hall sources tell Andrew that Mayor
Bloomberg will not intervene in the matter.
608
00:35:59,057 --> 00:36:02,390
He reportedly feels it's a
private, landlord-tenant dispute.
609
00:36:02,494 --> 00:36:05,691
There was no official comment
from the mayor's office.
610
00:36:05,797 --> 00:36:07,992
The state of things now is,
I don't want to say grim,
611
00:36:08,100 --> 00:36:10,398
but it feels like the
studios of Carnegie Hall,
612
00:36:10,502 --> 00:36:13,767
the legendary studios,
are on its last legs.
613
00:36:13,872 --> 00:36:16,705
There are six tenants remaining in
the building, all rent control.
614
00:36:16,808 --> 00:36:20,574
Everything is turned into offices.
Corporate offices.
615
00:36:20,679 --> 00:36:23,705
Beautiful artist studios like this
have been divided up...
616
00:36:23,815 --> 00:36:26,545
with partitions and computers
and telemarketers.
617
00:36:26,652 --> 00:36:30,019
Agnes de Mille's studio...
This is the famous one, Ballet Arts,
618
00:36:30,122 --> 00:36:32,147
where she choreographed
Oklahoma.
619
00:36:32,257 --> 00:36:36,284
Can you imagine how big that studio was?
That is now a sea of telemarketers.
620
00:36:36,395 --> 00:36:38,056
For us it feels criminal.
621
00:36:38,163 --> 00:36:41,030
It feels immoral that these people,
at this stage of their life,
622
00:36:41,133 --> 00:36:45,763
are going to spend their twilight years,
fighting to hold on to these studios.
623
00:36:45,871 --> 00:36:51,332
That's why it's a treat to see Bill and
Editta Sherman standing their ground...
624
00:36:51,443 --> 00:36:53,775
and being the last holdouts here
of the Carnegie Studios.
625
00:36:54,346 --> 00:36:55,540
Editta Sherman!
626
00:36:56,949 --> 00:36:58,280
Come on in!
627
00:36:58,383 --> 00:36:59,714
What is this thing?
628
00:36:59,818 --> 00:37:02,013
How come they're not doing
something on me?
629
00:37:02,120 --> 00:37:04,588
We did something on you.
This is all of you.
630
00:37:04,690 --> 00:37:06,385
We're doing something
on all of you now.
631
00:37:06,491 --> 00:37:07,549
Well, why?
632
00:37:07,659 --> 00:37:11,459
Here I am. They don't even
bring a cup of coffee.
633
00:37:11,563 --> 00:37:13,895
Well, I think they're not very civilized.
634
00:37:13,999 --> 00:37:15,432
Editta's always hungry.
635
00:37:16,935 --> 00:37:18,027
She's always hungry.
636
00:37:18,136 --> 00:37:20,627
You see?
This is a crazy house.
637
00:37:20,739 --> 00:37:22,536
- That's so beautiful.
- I know that.
638
00:37:22,641 --> 00:37:24,268
Suzette, how
long have you known Editta?
639
00:37:24,376 --> 00:37:26,810
Were you here
when I moved in in '49?
640
00:37:26,912 --> 00:37:28,402
No. You were here first.
Forty-nine.
641
00:37:28,513 --> 00:37:30,174
I moved in here in the '40s.
642
00:37:30,282 --> 00:37:32,614
I guess I must have been here
around 1940, huh?
643
00:37:32,718 --> 00:37:35,710
And Bill was making hats.
He was a designer.
644
00:37:35,821 --> 00:37:38,483
In this building?
Yes. Yes, he made hats.
645
00:37:38,590 --> 00:37:43,618
And I met him because I wanted
to buy one of the hats.
646
00:37:43,729 --> 00:37:45,720
Did Suzette wear your hats?
647
00:37:45,831 --> 00:37:47,731
Yeah. I wear the orange
one all the time.
648
00:37:47,833 --> 00:37:49,460
Suzette is very conservative.
It's wearing out.
649
00:37:49,568 --> 00:37:52,264
An orange one. The orange beret.
She had one.
650
00:37:52,371 --> 00:37:54,100
There's a picture
of it around somewhere.
651
00:37:54,206 --> 00:37:55,298
Yeah, I have
one downstairs...
652
00:37:55,407 --> 00:37:56,840
A painting of it,
a big painting.
653
00:37:56,942 --> 00:37:58,170
Well, I have the hats here.
654
00:37:58,277 --> 00:38:02,543
One of them is a little beret,
which is very cute.
655
00:38:02,648 --> 00:38:03,979
No, it's nothing.
656
00:38:04,082 --> 00:38:05,845
Don't show them the garbage.
657
00:38:05,951 --> 00:38:07,612
This is one of Bill's hats.
658
00:38:09,388 --> 00:38:12,824
Everybody looks at me
on the street when I wear this hat.
659
00:38:19,398 --> 00:38:20,592
Like that one?
660
00:38:20,699 --> 00:38:23,497
My hat salon
was on the 10th floor.
661
00:38:23,602 --> 00:38:28,505
Ginger Rogers used to come and joan Crawford.
Marilyn Monroe was one,
662
00:38:28,607 --> 00:38:31,303
and I had no interest
'cause they weren't stylish.
663
00:38:31,410 --> 00:38:34,937
I think this is the way he has this.
We have it?
664
00:38:35,047 --> 00:38:38,346
Maybe I should have
something light on, like this.
665
00:38:39,418 --> 00:38:40,817
You like it?
666
00:38:40,919 --> 00:38:42,318
This all right?
667
00:38:43,255 --> 00:38:47,191
I know Bill Cunningham was a milliner,
and he went under a label William J.
668
00:38:47,292 --> 00:38:51,922
You see, he didn't go...
He went by William.
669
00:38:52,030 --> 00:38:53,497
There, his label.
670
00:38:53,598 --> 00:38:56,692
Actually, I've seen a few of his hats
at F.I.T. At an exhibit.
671
00:38:56,802 --> 00:38:58,565
They were quite beautiful.
672
00:38:58,670 --> 00:39:02,299
That's what we have in common, also, that
he used to see me on the street in hats.
673
00:39:05,877 --> 00:39:07,276
Well, I did the little trick.
674
00:39:07,379 --> 00:39:10,644
I put my hat in front of my face,
and I changed hats.
675
00:39:10,749 --> 00:39:12,944
It's just, so it's not so blatant.
676
00:39:13,051 --> 00:39:15,918
It doesn't... It doesn't break the line.
677
00:39:16,021 --> 00:39:21,482
And that's how I put on hats
when I'm in public.
678
00:39:21,593 --> 00:39:22,992
I love this little bowler.
679
00:39:23,095 --> 00:39:25,689
I feel like Mr.
Peanut in this little bowler.
680
00:39:25,797 --> 00:39:28,493
It's kind of a different silhouette for me.
681
00:39:28,600 --> 00:39:29,828
It's very Mr. Peanut.
682
00:39:32,471 --> 00:39:33,870
Do you like this one?
683
00:39:35,474 --> 00:39:36,873
Do you want the same fur?
684
00:39:41,179 --> 00:39:43,511
Do you like it that way
or do you like it hanging?
685
00:39:43,615 --> 00:39:47,881
My friend Ray Solowinski
on the eighth floor was a photographer,
686
00:39:47,986 --> 00:39:52,855
and he had the studio
where Caruso made his first recordings.
687
00:39:52,958 --> 00:39:55,825
Marlon Brando had
his studio here.
688
00:39:55,927 --> 00:39:58,452
Mrs. Sherman, no lipstick.
689
00:39:58,563 --> 00:39:59,655
Yes, I know.
690
00:39:59,765 --> 00:40:01,858
It doesn't go with that costume.
Well...
691
00:40:01,967 --> 00:40:04,197
Do you have
any funny stories... Yeah!
692
00:40:04,302 --> 00:40:07,066
Like about the three of you?
About living in Carnegie?
693
00:40:07,172 --> 00:40:08,605
Yes. Oh, definitely.
694
00:40:08,707 --> 00:40:11,403
Sherman...
Sherman was the centerpiece.
695
00:40:11,510 --> 00:40:13,205
It had always been her hobby.
696
00:40:13,311 --> 00:40:15,040
She was self-taught,
697
00:40:15,147 --> 00:40:20,881
and she danced to the music
of the dying swan.
698
00:40:20,986 --> 00:40:24,149
Whose music is the dying...
Oh, it was The Carnival of the Animals.
699
00:40:24,256 --> 00:40:25,280
Yes.
700
00:40:25,390 --> 00:40:26,755
You know how that goes.
701
00:40:26,858 --> 00:40:30,851
# Da, da, da, dee, da, da, da #
702
00:40:39,905 --> 00:40:42,271
We'd never seen
anything like this in our lives.
703
00:40:42,374 --> 00:40:47,107
But Editta would turn off all the lights
, and on the night of a full moon...
704
00:40:47,212 --> 00:40:49,373
the moon would come
through those skylights...
705
00:40:49,481 --> 00:40:52,609
Editta would come out
and do the dying swan.
706
00:40:52,717 --> 00:40:55,447
We were all mesmerized by that.
707
00:41:05,730 --> 00:41:07,391
Someone like Editta Sherman...
708
00:41:07,499 --> 00:41:12,232
She's married to the studio and her
craft, and that's her life.
709
00:41:12,337 --> 00:41:16,637
And to extract her
out of this environment is...
710
00:41:16,741 --> 00:41:20,643
That feels criminal to me because she's
an artist who works in this environment,
711
00:41:20,745 --> 00:41:22,975
and it's because of this environment
she does what she does.
712
00:41:23,081 --> 00:41:25,140
And it's true of a lot
of the other tenants.
713
00:41:25,250 --> 00:41:30,711
So... to sort of displace them
at this stage in their lives,
714
00:41:30,822 --> 00:41:35,020
into some sort of anonymous apartment
is just, you know, I think,
715
00:41:35,126 --> 00:41:37,754
would be the beginning of the end
for a lot of these tenants.
716
00:41:39,097 --> 00:41:42,498
Is it sad for you? They're going to
relocate us in the neighborhood.
717
00:41:42,601 --> 00:41:46,765
So you're not worried... It'll be an
apartment with a kitchen and a bathroom.
718
00:41:46,872 --> 00:41:49,238
Who the hell wants a kitchen
and a bathroom?
719
00:41:49,341 --> 00:41:51,332
Mmm.
Just more rooms to clean.
720
00:41:51,443 --> 00:41:54,173
Can you see one of
these fancy apartment houses...
721
00:41:54,279 --> 00:41:57,339
where all they move in are filing cabinets?
722
00:41:58,917 --> 00:42:02,512
I'm not gonna worry.
I have more fun going out and photographing.
723
00:42:02,621 --> 00:42:04,748
I suppose it'll bother me at
the time, but so what?
724
00:42:04,856 --> 00:42:06,790
Inconvenient but otherwise...
725
00:42:06,892 --> 00:42:09,918
You can't interrupt your life
with that nonsense.
726
00:42:11,596 --> 00:42:14,463
Psst! Psst!
727
00:42:20,972 --> 00:42:23,497
- Look at Veronica!
- Bill, a hug.
728
00:42:23,608 --> 00:42:25,940
Hello child. My...
729
00:42:26,044 --> 00:42:27,671
The diamonds have gotten bigger.
Right?
730
00:42:27,779 --> 00:42:29,246
And, of course...
731
00:42:29,347 --> 00:42:32,009
Now that they make them at Club Monaco,
they get bigger and bigger.
732
00:42:32,117 --> 00:42:34,085
And, of course, they're all real.
733
00:42:34,185 --> 00:42:35,482
Yes.
Absolutely.
734
00:42:35,587 --> 00:42:37,714
In someone's mind.
735
00:42:37,822 --> 00:42:42,987
Bill, this gentleman here in the
velvet blazer straight ahead of you...
736
00:42:43,094 --> 00:42:45,358
is David Koch,
who we're honoring tonight.
737
00:42:45,463 --> 00:42:46,930
Oh, I know him, yeah.
738
00:42:47,032 --> 00:42:48,795
I've never had
an experience like this Bill.
739
00:42:48,900 --> 00:42:50,959
I'm kind of over the moon about
it, you know? Good. Good.
740
00:42:51,069 --> 00:42:53,560
Enjoy it. My head is spinning.
Well, you should be.
741
00:42:53,672 --> 00:42:56,732
"Evening Hours"documents
, perhaps to some, simply parties...
742
00:42:56,841 --> 00:42:59,469
and the people who go to them,
but really, what it's about...
743
00:42:59,578 --> 00:43:03,139
are the amazing connections
people have in this city...
744
00:43:03,248 --> 00:43:05,716
with each other, with the
various organizations...
745
00:43:05,817 --> 00:43:08,752
they think are important,
with the people who they honor,
746
00:43:08,853 --> 00:43:10,684
and Bill really chronicles that.
747
00:43:10,789 --> 00:43:14,555
This is Karole Armitage.
She has a dance company in New York.
748
00:43:14,659 --> 00:43:16,786
You have to come
take pictures of my gala.
749
00:43:16,895 --> 00:43:19,591
We need you.
750
00:43:19,698 --> 00:43:23,259
Remind me. Have someone at your place
send a postcard. Okay, I will.
751
00:43:23,368 --> 00:43:26,098
No formality.
Just send me something in the mail.
752
00:43:26,204 --> 00:43:29,970
These are all the ones
I couldn't get to last week.
753
00:43:30,575 --> 00:43:34,011
You know, you simply can't get involved
in all of these things. It's...
754
00:43:34,112 --> 00:43:35,409
I used to try.
755
00:43:35,513 --> 00:43:39,916
This one I might go to, but I just don't know.
The security could be so awful.
756
00:43:40,018 --> 00:43:42,953
First, I select a charity
that will do the most good.
757
00:43:43,054 --> 00:43:46,615
Never looking at a guest list. As a
matter of fact, people call up and say,
758
00:43:46,725 --> 00:43:49,956
"Well, this one's coming or that one.
" I say, "Don't bother even telling me,
759
00:43:50,061 --> 00:43:52,586
and don't bother sending a guest list
'cause I'm not interested. "
760
00:43:52,697 --> 00:43:56,064
"The Queen of Sweden,
the Queen of Jordan,
761
00:43:56,167 --> 00:43:57,794
their Royal Highnesses"...
762
00:43:57,902 --> 00:44:00,427
and, uh, blah, blah, blah, blah.
763
00:44:00,538 --> 00:44:05,441
I'm interested in what the charity does,
and that's why the Times is there.
764
00:44:05,543 --> 00:44:07,010
It really is that way.
765
00:44:07,112 --> 00:44:10,138
People find it hard to believe. They
think it's a society column.
766
00:44:10,248 --> 00:44:11,715
It's not at all.
767
00:44:11,816 --> 00:44:13,613
It never was meant to be.
768
00:44:13,718 --> 00:44:16,516
There was a magazine.
It's now deceased.
769
00:44:16,621 --> 00:44:18,919
They had a headline...
770
00:44:19,024 --> 00:44:22,551
The best magazine
title I've ever seen.
771
00:44:22,661 --> 00:44:24,754
"You went out last night.
772
00:44:24,863 --> 00:44:26,330
Nobody wrote about it.
773
00:44:26,431 --> 00:44:28,023
Do you exist?"
774
00:44:28,133 --> 00:44:30,067
Now that's...
775
00:44:30,168 --> 00:44:33,569
That's the frame of mind that
a lot of people got caught up in.
776
00:44:33,672 --> 00:44:37,005
You kids print your names for me.
Where's it gonna be? Where's our picture gonna be?
777
00:44:37,108 --> 00:44:38,735
He's New York Times.
Oh.
778
00:44:38,843 --> 00:44:41,812
The Times have a little benefit page.
It's small stuff.
779
00:44:41,913 --> 00:44:43,073
We gotta be in it.
Unimportant.
780
00:44:43,181 --> 00:44:44,409
We're pretty
good-looking people.
781
00:44:44,516 --> 00:44:46,245
Yeah. That's what I thought.
782
00:44:46,351 --> 00:44:48,319
New York is about status.
783
00:44:48,420 --> 00:44:50,251
That's all it's about.
784
00:44:50,355 --> 00:44:54,348
There is...
This is not a pleasant city to live in,
785
00:44:54,459 --> 00:45:00,659
aside from the fact that there are a lot
of people, uh, here who are ambitious.
786
00:45:00,765 --> 00:45:04,565
People are very pushy
socially in New York,
787
00:45:04,669 --> 00:45:06,603
but they don't wave a flag.
788
00:45:06,705 --> 00:45:09,003
They just move in the
right direction.
789
00:45:09,107 --> 00:45:11,940
The right direction is toward
Bill Cunningham's camera.
790
00:45:12,043 --> 00:45:14,705
I don't think that Bill
considers himself a social arbiter.
791
00:45:14,813 --> 00:45:19,580
I really don't consider him as being someone who
gets a lift out of being with these people.
792
00:45:21,519 --> 00:45:23,214
Yeah, that's it! Yeah.
793
00:45:23,321 --> 00:45:24,982
That's... That's the way.
794
00:45:25,090 --> 00:45:26,921
Yeah, it's a nice expression.
795
00:45:27,025 --> 00:45:29,289
None of this stiff stuff.
796
00:45:29,394 --> 00:45:32,124
You caught us napping.
I get that with the benefactors up there.
797
00:45:32,230 --> 00:45:34,357
How you doing today there?
Okay, kid.
798
00:45:34,466 --> 00:45:36,127
There's a little fish in the back.
799
00:45:36,234 --> 00:45:38,930
Would they bring you some fish
over to the other side?
800
00:45:39,037 --> 00:45:40,698
Oh, no. I don't want anything.
Are you sure?
801
00:45:40,805 --> 00:45:42,432
Oh, yeah. I eat with my eyes.
802
00:45:42,540 --> 00:45:45,373
Yeah, I know, but you need
to keep your body up too.
803
00:45:45,477 --> 00:45:48,275
Hmm? You won't let me
get you a little plate?
804
00:45:48,379 --> 00:45:50,176
Oh, no. No, thank you, Mary.
805
00:45:50,281 --> 00:45:51,612
Nobody would see you.
806
00:45:51,716 --> 00:45:54,344
No. Thank you, child.
Okay.
807
00:45:54,452 --> 00:45:57,285
A lot of people
think it's a little peculiar...
808
00:45:57,388 --> 00:46:00,255
that I never have a drink
or something like that,
809
00:46:00,358 --> 00:46:02,155
but I made up my mind...
810
00:46:02,260 --> 00:46:03,727
Oh, at Women's Wear.
811
00:46:03,828 --> 00:46:06,296
People were always wining
and dining you,
812
00:46:06,397 --> 00:46:09,560
and I thought,
"Well, I'm not into that."
813
00:46:09,667 --> 00:46:13,569
I'm there just to
report for the Times.
814
00:46:13,671 --> 00:46:15,400
I'm not there to be wined and dined,
815
00:46:15,507 --> 00:46:18,806
and I certainly wouldn't compromise
the Times,
816
00:46:18,910 --> 00:46:21,003
so I made up my mind
at that point...
817
00:46:21,112 --> 00:46:23,342
I wouldn't take even
a glass of water.
818
00:46:23,448 --> 00:46:27,145
I have something to eat
before I go to work, and that's it.
819
00:46:27,252 --> 00:46:28,219
Period.
820
00:46:28,319 --> 00:46:33,518
It's keeping a distance from what you're
doing, so you can be more objective.
821
00:46:33,625 --> 00:46:35,855
Objective over what, I don't know,
822
00:46:35,960 --> 00:46:39,054
but, uh, it works for me.
823
00:46:39,297 --> 00:46:44,701
New York society
becomes harder and harder to define.
824
00:46:44,803 --> 00:46:46,430
The latest definition...
825
00:46:46,538 --> 00:46:50,030
is everything from the girls
who smile for party pictures...
826
00:46:50,141 --> 00:46:51,972
to the old WASPs.
827
00:46:52,076 --> 00:46:54,772
He loves, like, an old, stylish gal.
828
00:46:54,879 --> 00:46:57,439
Come on.
He loves an old, stylish gal.
829
00:46:57,549 --> 00:46:59,380
And they all love him.
830
00:46:59,484 --> 00:47:02,112
That's why I think...
I don't know the history of Bill,
831
00:47:02,220 --> 00:47:05,519
but we suspected that there was some
kind of society connection with Bill,
832
00:47:05,623 --> 00:47:08,524
because he also felt as comfortable
with Lady Astor,
833
00:47:08,626 --> 00:47:10,651
and he knew all those people.
834
00:47:10,762 --> 00:47:12,286
I'm David Rockefeller.
William Astor.
835
00:47:12,397 --> 00:47:14,058
You look marvelous indeed.
836
00:47:14,165 --> 00:47:19,228
Isn't that nice? When you think of all
that's going on, that they came tonight?
837
00:47:19,337 --> 00:47:21,362
Why are you not making peace?
838
00:47:21,472 --> 00:47:23,736
Hello, Bill.
Come with me.
839
00:47:23,842 --> 00:47:27,869
Brooke Astor...
Someone like that is a rarity.
840
00:47:27,979 --> 00:47:31,574
She had such a human touch,
a correctness, about her,
841
00:47:31,683 --> 00:47:33,651
but not in a stuffed-shirt way.
842
00:47:33,751 --> 00:47:35,742
She immediately
made people feel at ease.
843
00:47:35,854 --> 00:47:40,621
She believed not in exclusion,
but inclusion.
844
00:47:40,725 --> 00:47:42,693
We're all the same.
We all have the same problems.
845
00:47:42,794 --> 00:47:46,457
We all have family members
that are whatever the hell it is.
846
00:47:46,564 --> 00:47:49,692
I've loved and admired
my mother...
847
00:47:49,801 --> 00:47:52,463
for more than
three-quarters of a century.
848
00:47:53,671 --> 00:47:55,662
Let's all toast to my mother,
849
00:47:55,773 --> 00:47:59,209
who was born,
not only on the 30th of March,
850
00:47:59,310 --> 00:48:03,337
but in 1902,
the 30th of March was Easter Day.
851
00:48:03,448 --> 00:48:09,614
Mrs. Astor represented some timeless
sense of style and elegance...
852
00:48:09,721 --> 00:48:11,313
and philanthropy...
853
00:48:11,422 --> 00:48:13,686
and doing the right thing.
854
00:48:13,791 --> 00:48:17,591
I really am not so extraordinary.
855
00:48:17,695 --> 00:48:23,031
I'm just an ordinary person
who has had a very good life...
856
00:48:23,134 --> 00:48:26,626
and is very near...
and it is getting very near to the end.
857
00:48:26,738 --> 00:48:29,036
And I've had a wonderful time.
858
00:48:29,140 --> 00:48:31,404
You've all really been so sweet.
859
00:48:31,509 --> 00:48:34,273
I think it was
impossible not to admire her.
860
00:48:34,379 --> 00:48:36,973
They became really very close friends.
861
00:48:37,081 --> 00:48:40,050
And he did chronicle
her every single move.
862
00:48:40,151 --> 00:48:44,588
It was with a genuine kindness and
affection, and he protected her.
863
00:48:44,689 --> 00:48:47,419
To the very end
they were great friends.
864
00:48:47,525 --> 00:48:50,255
I'm guessing...
865
00:48:50,361 --> 00:48:54,525
that he might actually have come
from a wealthy family because of that,
866
00:48:54,632 --> 00:48:58,591
and because only people who come from
wealth can live the way he lives.
867
00:48:58,703 --> 00:49:01,103
So that's always been my assumption,
868
00:49:01,205 --> 00:49:04,140
but I've actually never discussed it
with him.
869
00:49:12,350 --> 00:49:15,183
About ten years ago
, I was sitting outside...
870
00:49:15,286 --> 00:49:16,913
downtown at a restaurant,
871
00:49:17,021 --> 00:49:20,650
and it must have been 11 o'clock at night.
872
00:49:20,758 --> 00:49:23,921
And all of a sudden,
there goes Bill Cunningham on his bike.
873
00:49:24,028 --> 00:49:30,399
I thought, "Oh, I want to say hello,"
but he was gone in a fleeting moment.
874
00:49:30,501 --> 00:49:34,699
And all I could see was his blue coat
and the bike go by.
875
00:49:34,806 --> 00:49:36,535
And I knew where he was headed.
876
00:49:36,641 --> 00:49:38,609
He goes to many events
in one evening.
877
00:49:38,710 --> 00:49:40,678
He's in one event uptown,
878
00:49:40,778 --> 00:49:42,643
and he's downtown at another event.
879
00:49:42,747 --> 00:49:46,274
It's rigorous work.
880
00:49:48,987 --> 00:49:51,455
This is too early to be
at one of these downtown parties.
881
00:49:51,556 --> 00:49:54,525
We're the only ones here. Bill's
gonna be here for five minutes and leave.
882
00:49:56,995 --> 00:49:58,758
Big smiles.
Come on, Annie!
883
00:50:00,231 --> 00:50:01,391
Beautiful, guys.
884
00:50:01,499 --> 00:50:03,660
That's a classic Schwinn.
885
00:50:03,768 --> 00:50:05,395
Someone gave it to me.
886
00:50:05,503 --> 00:50:08,028
That's my 29th.
Wonderful.
887
00:50:08,139 --> 00:50:10,801
I've had 28 stolen.
888
00:50:10,908 --> 00:50:12,273
28 stolen bikes?
889
00:50:12,377 --> 00:50:14,004
Yeah. That's the 29th.
890
00:50:14,112 --> 00:50:16,774
Oh, my goodness, the kids are all here.
891
00:50:16,881 --> 00:50:20,248
The kids are here.
I came out from L.A. With Annie.
892
00:50:20,351 --> 00:50:23,252
Oh, how wonderful.
She's ensconced down there.
893
00:50:23,354 --> 00:50:25,288
Oh, aren't you kids beautiful?
Look at you.
894
00:50:25,390 --> 00:50:27,517
"You kids." Never changes.
895
00:50:27,625 --> 00:50:29,650
Look at you two kids.
You gonna take?
896
00:50:29,761 --> 00:50:31,092
Yes.
Of us?
897
00:50:31,195 --> 00:50:34,164
Yes. In basic black? Are you kidding?
898
00:50:35,133 --> 00:50:37,829
A very special one too. Yes.
899
00:50:42,140 --> 00:50:44,165
Bill is a true egalitarian.
900
00:50:44,275 --> 00:50:48,541
However, that doesn't mean
he isn't aware of the nuances...
901
00:50:48,646 --> 00:50:52,377
of cultural division and hierarchies.
902
00:50:52,483 --> 00:50:54,508
He just treats it all the same.
903
00:50:54,619 --> 00:50:56,610
He really is the person who,
904
00:50:56,721 --> 00:50:58,552
whether you're a bicycle messenger,
905
00:50:58,656 --> 00:51:02,183
a woman who's breaking
the glass ceiling on Wall Street,
906
00:51:02,293 --> 00:51:04,727
a socialite in New York...
907
00:51:04,829 --> 00:51:08,458
who's an up-and-comer
and part of nouvelle society,
908
00:51:08,566 --> 00:51:11,228
or an old Dutch or German family...
909
00:51:11,335 --> 00:51:16,739
that is still in the last phases
of its denouement in Newport...
910
00:51:16,841 --> 00:51:18,138
He doesn't care.
911
00:51:18,242 --> 00:51:23,737
It's all, for him, the huge variety
of life in New York City.
912
00:51:23,848 --> 00:51:25,611
When was the first
time Bill photographed you?
913
00:51:25,716 --> 00:51:28,651
In 1986,
and the Times said...
914
00:51:28,753 --> 00:51:31,722
He came to me the next week and
he said, "I'm so disappointed.
915
00:51:31,823 --> 00:51:35,759
The Times said we can't put you in
because you're wearing a dress."
916
00:51:35,860 --> 00:51:39,261
And he said, "But I'm going
to keep trying to get you in."
917
00:51:39,363 --> 00:51:41,194
And I was like, "What the hell?
918
00:51:41,299 --> 00:51:44,860
I'm wearing a pair
of workman's boots with that dress."
919
00:51:44,969 --> 00:51:49,269
And he said, "I know Kenny,
but they won't put you in, but I'm trying."
920
00:51:49,373 --> 00:51:51,933
And now, they put everything in.
921
00:51:52,043 --> 00:51:55,206
He's such a maverick.
Really a maverick.
922
00:51:55,313 --> 00:51:57,804
He means so much to people like us.
Really.
923
00:51:57,915 --> 00:52:00,406
He's an artist.
924
00:52:00,518 --> 00:52:01,815
We'll talk.
925
00:52:30,715 --> 00:52:32,615
You have two choices.
926
00:52:32,717 --> 00:52:35,845
You can either have Jon Bon Jovi
give you the welcoming remarks...
927
00:52:35,953 --> 00:52:37,580
and me doing the singing...
928
00:52:37,688 --> 00:52:39,155
Or the reverse.
929
00:52:39,257 --> 00:52:42,385
Seriously, this is one
of the great jewels of New York.
930
00:52:42,493 --> 00:52:44,961
It is great for the economy of this city.
931
00:52:45,062 --> 00:52:47,724
It is great for the education of our kids.
932
00:52:47,832 --> 00:52:49,459
It is great for everybody.
933
00:52:49,567 --> 00:52:54,197
So you have a great evening tonight,
and thank you for all you're doing.
934
00:52:54,305 --> 00:52:57,206
Thank you for your support
of this wonderful museum. God bless.
935
00:53:28,806 --> 00:53:30,774
That's why I was going up with it.
936
00:53:30,875 --> 00:53:33,275
Yes, like that. Yeah. That's nice.
937
00:53:33,377 --> 00:53:37,245
Now let's put this one, a single
picture party, right in here.
938
00:53:37,348 --> 00:53:40,374
Put this one down at the bottom,
this party, and put this one above it.
939
00:53:40,484 --> 00:53:41,451
We'll see. We'll just...
940
00:53:41,552 --> 00:53:44,953
Just put it on. Stop your antics.
941
00:53:45,056 --> 00:53:46,523
Put it up there.
942
00:53:50,628 --> 00:53:52,095
Damn you kids!
943
00:53:52,196 --> 00:53:55,256
I love this one. Scientists.
944
00:53:55,366 --> 00:53:58,130
He must be quite a jokester.
945
00:53:58,236 --> 00:54:00,636
He's a Nobel laureate
and so forth,
946
00:54:00,738 --> 00:54:03,070
and he's teasing
the other scientist.
947
00:54:03,174 --> 00:54:06,234
Look at this beautiful child,
but we have no room for her.
948
00:54:06,344 --> 00:54:08,073
I think we need
someone new, young.
949
00:54:08,179 --> 00:54:11,012
I didn't know who she was.
Just, I liked the way she looked.
950
00:54:11,115 --> 00:54:12,878
The dress is terrific.
951
00:54:12,984 --> 00:54:16,181
Asymmetric on the bias.
You never see that.
952
00:54:16,287 --> 00:54:20,223
And it's not a model. That's a private
person that brought their own clothes.
953
00:54:20,324 --> 00:54:23,191
I have the most beautiful
picture of Mrs. Bass.
954
00:54:23,294 --> 00:54:25,819
She looks like
a John Singer Sargent portrait.
955
00:54:25,930 --> 00:54:29,297
A what?
Absolutely ravishing.
956
00:54:29,400 --> 00:54:34,702
Except, she's got a modesty bib
filling in the V-neckline.
957
00:54:34,805 --> 00:54:37,365
What a crime.
That should have been...
958
00:54:37,475 --> 00:54:39,966
I'm sure the dressmaker got timid.
959
00:54:40,077 --> 00:54:41,544
You know, to fill it.
960
00:54:41,646 --> 00:54:44,080
Isn't that a shame?
It should have been left open.
961
00:54:44,181 --> 00:54:46,240
Look how elegant she is.
Oh, yeah.
962
00:54:46,350 --> 00:54:48,318
Oh. That woman is amazing.
963
00:54:48,419 --> 00:54:51,752
Uh, wasn't she in last week?
No. No.
964
00:54:52,356 --> 00:54:55,348
Oh, no, you don't cut her arms.
Are you crazed?
965
00:54:55,459 --> 00:54:57,689
Well, excuse me.
Keep her hands in.
966
00:54:57,795 --> 00:55:00,263
My God, John.
Where's your sensitivity?
967
00:55:00,364 --> 00:55:03,333
I mean, she's probably
the most elegant woman,
968
00:55:03,434 --> 00:55:06,267
or one of the most elegant women,
in New York.
969
00:55:06,370 --> 00:55:09,134
Oh, you wouldn't know.
What am I talking to you about that stuff?
970
00:55:10,441 --> 00:55:13,535
You're a lumberjack,
and here I'm talking dresses to you.
971
00:55:13,644 --> 00:55:18,013
Are you talking to me?
I was completely ignoring you all that time.
972
00:55:23,220 --> 00:55:24,687
Oh! Now stop it.
973
00:55:24,789 --> 00:55:27,314
Turn that damn thing off.
974
00:55:27,425 --> 00:55:30,189
Bill, we're gonna hound you.
We're gonna hound you.
975
00:55:30,294 --> 00:55:33,024
You've already done that.
Now stop it.
976
00:55:33,130 --> 00:55:36,293
These guys are tough as nails.
They think they're taking over.
977
00:55:36,400 --> 00:55:38,391
They're not taking over.
We're not.
978
00:55:38,502 --> 00:55:40,527
I got news for them.
Yeah.
979
00:55:43,107 --> 00:55:48,409
These jerks think
they're going to follow me to Paris.
980
00:55:48,512 --> 00:55:50,070
Who are they kidding?
981
00:55:50,181 --> 00:55:53,048
We are.
No, you're not.
982
00:56:09,266 --> 00:56:12,429
I didn't get to Paris till 1951.
983
00:56:17,708 --> 00:56:22,077
I was stationed
in the southwest of France.
984
00:56:22,179 --> 00:56:23,840
I'd take the train up to Paris.
985
00:56:23,948 --> 00:56:26,917
Of course,
it was very different from today.
986
00:56:27,017 --> 00:56:29,918
They were only couture houses.
987
00:56:33,657 --> 00:56:38,959
They were clothes
that gave women enormous security...
988
00:56:39,063 --> 00:56:42,396
through the elegance of cut
and taste and refinement.
989
00:56:42,500 --> 00:56:44,695
There was nothing
frivolous about them.
990
00:57:00,151 --> 00:57:02,278
You see, when I began in the '40s,
991
00:57:02,386 --> 00:57:04,820
there were no photographers
at fashion shows.
992
00:57:04,922 --> 00:57:08,585
What the fashion houses had to do
was take their own photographs...
993
00:57:08,692 --> 00:57:12,788
and bring them to the editors
to select something.
994
00:57:12,897 --> 00:57:17,129
Then the ready-to-wear
came into existence in the...
995
00:57:17,234 --> 00:57:23,298
in the end of the '60s,
beginning of the '70s, very slowly.
996
00:57:23,407 --> 00:57:25,807
At Saint Laurent's
first ready-to-wear show,
997
00:57:25,910 --> 00:57:30,279
I think there were maybe myself,
and maybe a Vogue photographer.
998
00:57:30,381 --> 00:57:34,579
I mean, it didn't have this
fanatic following that it has now...
999
00:57:34,685 --> 00:57:38,917
of all these manufacturers and people
that just would kill to get in...
1000
00:57:39,023 --> 00:57:43,119
because they need to steal ideas
for their own work.
1001
00:57:44,061 --> 00:57:48,020
So they let Paris
be the laboratory of ideas.
1002
00:57:53,304 --> 00:57:56,831
The press entrance is that way,
so you have to ask them, unfortunately.
1003
00:58:00,578 --> 00:58:02,569
Nikki, should we go...
Just one person, huh?
1004
00:58:02,680 --> 00:58:06,514
Oh.
1005
00:58:06,617 --> 00:58:10,451
Nikki, um, I'll see you later.
1006
00:58:18,329 --> 00:58:20,024
Looking at these collections,
1007
00:58:20,130 --> 00:58:24,123
I look for what I think
a woman could wear, would wear,
1008
00:58:24,235 --> 00:58:27,261
and whether it would fit
a human body,
1009
00:58:27,371 --> 00:58:28,838
other than the model.
1010
00:58:28,939 --> 00:58:30,406
I'm very attuned to that.
1011
00:58:30,508 --> 00:58:33,068
If it isn't something a woman could
wear, I have no interest in it.
1012
00:58:33,177 --> 00:58:35,907
I've watched Bill photograph
from the front row,
1013
00:58:36,013 --> 00:58:40,074
and you can see when the camera goes up
or the camera stays down.
1014
00:58:40,184 --> 00:58:42,175
And he's very opinionated.
1015
00:58:42,286 --> 00:58:44,811
He does not applaud
everyone.
1016
00:58:44,922 --> 00:58:46,787
He knows
what's innovative...
1017
00:58:46,891 --> 00:58:49,052
and what's borrowed or copied.
1018
00:58:49,159 --> 00:58:53,960
He knows if he sees someone, you know
, putting something on a runway...
1019
00:58:54,064 --> 00:58:56,032
if it was done, like,
30 years before.
1020
00:58:56,133 --> 00:58:58,192
And so he would pull it up.
1021
00:58:58,302 --> 00:59:01,203
Thirty years before,
and he'd show the picture and...
1022
00:59:01,305 --> 00:59:04,706
I mean, he got...
Designers would be devastated.
1023
00:59:04,808 --> 00:59:07,038
He once did that with Isaac Mizrahi.
He pulled up a Geoffrey Beene...
1024
00:59:07,144 --> 00:59:09,510
from like five years before
or something,
1025
00:59:09,613 --> 00:59:12,844
and Isaac was so mad, and even Geoffrey
Beene, I think, got mad at Isaac.
1026
00:59:12,950 --> 00:59:16,044
You know, it was like
he would definitely start trouble.
1027
00:59:16,153 --> 00:59:18,121
Not on purpose, but he would do...
1028
00:59:18,222 --> 00:59:21,953
He would definitely, like, point out,
like, if he saw something, he'd call it.
1029
00:59:26,997 --> 00:59:29,397
The photographers at the
shows, they're all in the back,
1030
00:59:29,500 --> 00:59:33,163
so they get a clear photograph
with nothing disturbing.
1031
00:59:33,270 --> 00:59:35,135
They get a plain wall.
It's all fine.
1032
00:59:35,239 --> 00:59:37,366
But they're getting
everything straight on.
1033
00:59:37,474 --> 00:59:39,533
Well, fashion's not that way.
1034
00:59:39,643 --> 00:59:45,309
You have to know in an instant, "Oh, the
angle is this, and the detail is that. "
1035
00:59:45,416 --> 00:59:46,883
And it's not straight on.
1036
00:59:46,984 --> 00:59:51,512
I just like it on the side, so I
can get a front, a back, a profile...
1037
00:59:51,622 --> 00:59:53,317
or hopefully.
1038
00:59:53,424 --> 00:59:56,621
Most of the time I
miss it, but I try.
1039
00:59:56,727 --> 00:59:59,958
#I hear Jerusalem
bells are ringing #
1040
01:00:00,064 --> 01:00:03,500
#Roman cavalry choirs are singing #
1041
01:00:03,601 --> 01:00:06,934
#Be my mirror, my sword and shield #
1042
01:00:07,037 --> 01:00:10,734
#My missionaries in
a foreign field #
1043
01:00:10,841 --> 01:00:13,901
#For some reason I can't explain #
1044
01:00:14,011 --> 01:00:20,644
#Once you go there was never,
never an honest word #
1045
01:00:20,751 --> 01:00:24,346
#And that was when I
ruled the world ##
1046
01:00:24,455 --> 01:00:28,482
The wider world
that perceives fashion as a...
1047
01:00:28,592 --> 01:00:31,060
sometimes a frivolity
that should be done away with...
1048
01:00:31,161 --> 01:00:37,566
in the face of social upheavals
and problems that are enormous...
1049
01:00:37,668 --> 01:00:41,695
The point is, in fact, that fashion...
1050
01:00:43,641 --> 01:00:44,608
Um...
1051
01:00:46,777 --> 01:00:48,506
You know, in point of fact,
1052
01:00:48,612 --> 01:00:53,640
it's the armor to survive
the reality of everyday life.
1053
01:00:53,751 --> 01:00:55,548
I don't think you could do away with it.
1054
01:00:55,653 --> 01:00:58,121
It would be like doing
away with civilization.
1055
01:00:58,222 --> 01:01:00,053
You know, l... That's what I think.
1056
01:01:00,157 --> 01:01:03,217
I mean, a lot of people think
"He's a crazy fanatic," you know.
1057
01:01:03,327 --> 01:01:06,592
At any rate,
that's what I think about it.
1058
01:01:10,134 --> 01:01:13,126
How is it different
shooting here than in New York?
1059
01:01:13,237 --> 01:01:16,866
Fashion week here is exceptional.
1060
01:01:16,974 --> 01:01:18,441
Why?
1061
01:01:18,542 --> 01:01:20,772
It educates the eye.
1062
01:01:20,878 --> 01:01:22,345
Paris?
1063
01:01:23,380 --> 01:01:25,143
That's right. That's really...
1064
01:01:25,249 --> 01:01:27,911
I come for the fashion,
but that's what happens.
1065
01:01:28,018 --> 01:01:31,454
Every six months
it's like going to school.
1066
01:01:31,555 --> 01:01:34,854
You have to go back
and reeducate the eye.
1067
01:01:37,227 --> 01:01:39,218
You couldn't take me
to a fine restaurant.
1068
01:01:42,299 --> 01:01:44,392
So you don't care about food?
No.
1069
01:01:44,501 --> 01:01:46,469
Really?
Oh, no, no.
1070
01:01:46,570 --> 01:01:48,128
Do you listen to music?
1071
01:01:48,238 --> 01:01:53,403
I used to go to concerts here,
in the churches and the opera.
1072
01:01:53,510 --> 01:01:55,637
But that stopped years ago.
1073
01:01:55,746 --> 01:01:57,577
There's no time.
Yeah, sure.
1074
01:01:57,681 --> 01:02:00,309
Right.
1075
01:02:00,417 --> 01:02:04,148
I mean, if I'm lucky I get to
church on Sunday.
1076
01:02:04,254 --> 01:02:07,348
That's where I hear the music. Really?
You go to church to hear the music?
1077
01:02:07,458 --> 01:02:09,323
Do you go to church?
Yeah.
1078
01:02:09,426 --> 01:02:10,450
Every Sunday?
Yeah.
1079
01:02:10,561 --> 01:02:11,550
Really?
1080
01:02:16,233 --> 01:02:18,633
It's no big deal.
1081
01:02:18,736 --> 01:02:21,603
I go and repent.
1082
01:02:32,883 --> 01:02:36,375
And you see all the paparazzi
going crazy? Oh, yeah.
1083
01:02:36,487 --> 01:02:38,955
Over Catherine Denueve.
1084
01:02:39,056 --> 01:02:41,923
I can hear people say, "He's
gotta be the dumbest one in the crowd.
1085
01:02:42,025 --> 01:02:43,492
He didn't bother
photographing her. "
1086
01:02:43,594 --> 01:02:45,152
Well, she wasn't wearing
anything interesting.
1087
01:02:45,262 --> 01:02:46,923
I'm interested in clothes.
1088
01:02:47,030 --> 01:02:49,760
And even if I knew them, knew who
they were, and usually I don't,
1089
01:02:49,867 --> 01:02:52,961
I don't go to the movies much
and I've never owned television.
1090
01:02:54,004 --> 01:02:56,598
I'd never be a paparazzi.
I couldn't be.
1091
01:02:56,707 --> 01:03:00,734
To torment people and chase them...
Oh, that I couldn't do. I wouldn't do.
1092
01:03:00,844 --> 01:03:04,143
I think it has to be done
just discreetly and quietly.
1093
01:03:04,248 --> 01:03:06,512
"Invisible,"I think, is the word.
1094
01:03:11,421 --> 01:03:16,188
This is the greatest subject
in all of Europe... Madame Piaggi.
1095
01:03:16,293 --> 01:03:18,193
C'est le video
The New York Times.
1096
01:03:18,295 --> 01:03:19,353
Yeah, I know.
1097
01:03:19,463 --> 01:03:23,263
The pumps. I don't like them
on me, but it's good on her.
1098
01:03:23,967 --> 01:03:25,935
When did he first photograph you?
1099
01:03:26,036 --> 01:03:28,266
Uh, in the '70s.
1100
01:03:28,372 --> 01:03:32,001
I photographed her
outside Saint Laurent's couture show,
1101
01:03:32,109 --> 01:03:36,512
mixed in with all the other women that were
trying to be so chic with their pantsuits.
1102
01:03:36,613 --> 01:03:38,513
It was a revelation.
1103
01:03:38,615 --> 01:03:40,640
I mean, I never saw anyone like her.
1104
01:03:40,751 --> 01:03:43,549
I think she's a poet with clothes.
1105
01:03:43,654 --> 01:03:45,815
But a very fine poet.
1106
01:03:45,923 --> 01:03:47,982
Oh, my God, I wouldn't miss her.
1107
01:03:48,091 --> 01:03:49,718
To me, that's the
reason to go to Paris.
1108
01:03:49,827 --> 01:03:54,890
I mean, I just like fashion
as an art form of dressing the body.
1109
01:03:54,998 --> 01:03:59,799
If we all went out looking like a slob like
me, it would be a pretty dreary world.
1110
01:03:59,903 --> 01:04:02,667
No, see, I think Bill is very stylish.
1111
01:04:02,773 --> 01:04:04,866
He has a look. It's individual.
1112
01:04:04,975 --> 01:04:06,909
It's Bill... the blue smock.
1113
01:04:07,010 --> 01:04:10,104
The jacket is functional 'cause
it has all the pockets. Right.
1114
01:04:10,214 --> 01:04:11,841
And you can launder it.
1115
01:04:11,949 --> 01:04:13,780
And I thought the color was nice.
1116
01:04:15,853 --> 01:04:20,313
Originally, when I started to buy them
at the Bazar de L'Hotel de Ville,
1117
01:04:20,424 --> 01:04:22,221
they were $20.
1118
01:04:22,326 --> 01:04:26,820
And they were the ones
that the street sweepers wore.
1119
01:04:26,930 --> 01:04:29,990
They came in black
and white and blue.
1120
01:04:30,100 --> 01:04:32,568
And, you see, with the cameras,
1121
01:04:32,669 --> 01:04:36,469
the jackets all get torn here and ruined.
1122
01:04:36,573 --> 01:04:39,406
So that was another thing.
1123
01:04:39,509 --> 01:04:42,706
Why have an expensive,
beautiful jacket...
1124
01:04:42,813 --> 01:04:46,544
and wear it with all the cameras
rubbing on it and wreck it?
1125
01:04:46,650 --> 01:04:50,518
I mean,
I can't imagine such wastefulness.
1126
01:04:52,723 --> 01:04:55,590
Oh, don't mind me. These are my...
1127
01:04:55,692 --> 01:04:58,058
I have to take every morning
my heart pills.
1128
01:04:58,161 --> 01:05:01,460
Keep the heart going.
1129
01:05:05,369 --> 01:05:09,863
This would be an upscale French
caf� for me. Oh, really?
1130
01:05:09,973 --> 01:05:11,440
Not...
1131
01:05:14,745 --> 01:05:17,578
Not terribly upscale, but upscale.
1132
01:05:17,681 --> 01:05:21,014
I like very simple,
down-to-earth, basic things.
1133
01:05:21,118 --> 01:05:23,177
You know, I don't like anything fancy.
1134
01:05:23,287 --> 01:05:25,812
And of course, I suppose that's such
a contradiction. Well, exactly.
1135
01:05:25,923 --> 01:05:28,517
Here I love all these women
dressed up in all these...
1136
01:05:30,394 --> 01:05:33,056
But I don't mind it. L...
1137
01:05:33,163 --> 01:05:35,825
What other people do
doesn't concern me.
1138
01:05:35,933 --> 01:05:37,730
It's just not my interest.
1139
01:05:37,834 --> 01:05:40,098
Tell me something about your family.
1140
01:05:40,203 --> 01:05:42,171
Oh, my family's
just working-class people.
1141
01:05:42,272 --> 01:05:45,571
Just marvelous, normal,
hardworking people.
1142
01:05:45,676 --> 01:05:47,234
And Catholic people.
1143
01:05:47,344 --> 01:05:52,247
I think I have, uh, half and half.
1144
01:05:52,349 --> 01:05:55,876
When I'm outgoing,
I guess I'm my dad.
1145
01:05:55,986 --> 01:06:01,652
And when I'm... uptight you'd call
it now, or whatever you call it,
1146
01:06:01,758 --> 01:06:04,488
uh, I'd be definitely my mother.
1147
01:06:04,594 --> 01:06:06,721
What does your family
think of what you do?
1148
01:06:06,830 --> 01:06:08,730
No one ever said anything about it,
1149
01:06:08,832 --> 01:06:11,528
but I think in years, in retrospect...
1150
01:06:11,635 --> 01:06:13,626
'cause I never thought about it...
1151
01:06:13,737 --> 01:06:18,640
they didn't think fashion
was a very manly pursuit,
1152
01:06:18,742 --> 01:06:21,006
or profession, for a man, you know.
1153
01:06:21,111 --> 01:06:22,840
So it was that kind of thing.
Right.
1154
01:06:24,281 --> 01:06:26,146
Whatever.
1155
01:06:32,489 --> 01:06:35,049
Do you feel honored to be getting
this award from the French?
1156
01:06:35,158 --> 01:06:36,785
Oh, it's very lovely of them.
1157
01:06:36,893 --> 01:06:38,827
It's exciting.
1158
01:06:38,929 --> 01:06:40,556
I don't know
why they're doing it, frankly.
1159
01:06:40,664 --> 01:06:42,996
Oh, come on, are you kidding?
1160
01:06:43,100 --> 01:06:45,398
'Cause you live long enough to hang around?
Are you kidding?
1161
01:06:45,502 --> 01:06:48,960
Congratulations.
Oh, Daphne! Oh, child!
1162
01:06:49,072 --> 01:06:51,973
It's you they should be honoring, not me.
1163
01:06:52,075 --> 01:06:54,339
Merci.
1164
01:06:54,444 --> 01:06:57,607
It should be Jean Luc.
He's the one they should be honoring.
1165
01:06:57,714 --> 01:07:00,182
No. Yes!
1166
01:07:00,283 --> 01:07:02,148
He doesn't want
to be honored.
1167
01:07:02,252 --> 01:07:04,880
He doesn't want
anything.
1168
01:07:04,988 --> 01:07:08,014
And I'm amazed
he accepted tonight.
1169
01:07:08,125 --> 01:07:13,358
He's not only Chevalier, but directly
Officer, which is exceptional.
1170
01:07:13,463 --> 01:07:18,366
Very deeply, I think
he doesn't believe he deserves it.
1171
01:07:18,468 --> 01:07:22,234
That's why he deserves it... even more.
1172
01:07:28,712 --> 01:07:33,012
I just think it's so funny
that you're working at your own party.
1173
01:07:33,116 --> 01:07:35,778
My dear, it's not work.
It's pleasure.
1174
01:07:35,886 --> 01:07:37,410
You know, you're right, but still.
1175
01:07:37,521 --> 01:07:39,352
You think I'm gonna miss
a good picture?
1176
01:07:42,192 --> 01:07:45,025
Are you still living in Carnegie Hall?
Yeah.
1177
01:07:45,128 --> 01:07:46,993
In the same studio?
Yeah. Yeah.
1178
01:07:47,097 --> 01:07:48,064
Okay.
1179
01:07:48,165 --> 01:07:50,030
They're going to throw me
out eventually. Oh, God.
1180
01:07:50,133 --> 01:07:53,261
No, no, no.
Either that or I go out in a coffin.
1181
01:07:53,370 --> 01:07:55,304
Who knows? Who cares?
1182
01:07:57,107 --> 01:07:58,768
Bonsoir, madame.
1183
01:08:27,070 --> 01:08:30,437
Congratulations.
1184
01:09:01,371 --> 01:09:03,202
When I photograph...
1185
01:09:09,980 --> 01:09:12,141
But that's what we're here for.
1186
01:09:13,083 --> 01:09:18,715
I'm not interested in the celebrities,
with their free dresses.
1187
01:09:18,822 --> 01:09:21,655
That's...
C'est pas important.
1188
01:09:22,492 --> 01:09:25,461
At least look at the clothes.
1189
01:09:31,301 --> 01:09:32,563
It's the clothes,
1190
01:09:32,669 --> 01:09:36,230
not the celebrity,
and not the spectacle.
1191
01:09:36,339 --> 01:09:41,140
It's as true today as it ever was.
1192
01:09:41,244 --> 01:09:43,906
He who seeks beauty...
1193
01:09:44,014 --> 01:09:45,879
Will find it.
1194
01:10:00,030 --> 01:10:05,127
We cannot base New
York City's entire economy...
1195
01:10:05,235 --> 01:10:07,533
on Wall Street and real estate.
1196
01:10:07,637 --> 01:10:14,736
It's a rally to save, or protect, the
garment industry from disappearing.
1197
01:10:14,844 --> 01:10:16,812
But I'm afraid it's too late.
1198
01:10:16,913 --> 01:10:18,210
Uh...
1199
01:10:18,315 --> 01:10:21,910
All the jobbers are gone.
They've all more or less moved out.
1200
01:10:22,018 --> 01:10:26,045
90-95%
of the clothes Americans wear...
1201
01:10:26,156 --> 01:10:28,989
are made outside of America.
1202
01:10:29,092 --> 01:10:30,889
Michael!
1203
01:10:32,395 --> 01:10:34,693
Mr. Cunningham, they
would like you up there.
1204
01:10:34,798 --> 01:10:36,095
How are you?
Great. Good.
1205
01:10:36,199 --> 01:10:37,325
You?
Good to see you.
1206
01:10:37,434 --> 01:10:38,799
Good.
1207
01:10:38,902 --> 01:10:40,392
I'm hanging out
behind the scenes.
1208
01:10:40,503 --> 01:10:43,063
I think I'll take one of those pea coats.
Made in America?
1209
01:10:43,173 --> 01:10:45,107
Get ready for the best part
of the pea coat.
1210
01:10:45,208 --> 01:10:47,403
Cashmere and neoprene.
Oh, too rich for me.
1211
01:10:49,012 --> 01:10:55,247
David Wolfson is one of the last..."jobbers"?
What do you call yourself, David?
1212
01:10:55,352 --> 01:10:58,219
Oh, contractor. Contractor.
Excuse me. I'll get it straight.
1213
01:10:58,321 --> 01:11:03,258
There were thousands of them 30 years ago,
and there's now maybe 45.
1214
01:11:03,360 --> 01:11:05,225
You know? Yeah.
1215
01:11:07,163 --> 01:11:08,858
Oh, look at this.
1216
01:11:31,621 --> 01:11:36,251
This would fit the bill
of the measurements...
1217
01:11:36,359 --> 01:11:39,988
of what Carnegie Hall said we were
entitled to or not to?
1218
01:11:40,096 --> 01:11:42,656
Yes.
Yeah.
1219
01:11:44,200 --> 01:11:48,261
Well, it would be nice if I had
clothes to hang here.
1220
01:11:48,371 --> 01:11:50,566
But it's beautiful,
with the whole wall of windows,
1221
01:11:50,674 --> 01:11:52,938
and the windowed kitchen
facing the park.
1222
01:11:53,043 --> 01:11:56,206
That's an embarrassment,
isn't it?
1223
01:12:16,933 --> 01:12:18,696
Uh, where's the next one?
1224
01:12:18,802 --> 01:12:21,828
The next one is on the 14th floor.
1225
01:12:26,509 --> 01:12:28,033
Here we go.
1226
01:12:30,313 --> 01:12:32,076
To your right.
1227
01:12:32,182 --> 01:12:36,175
I think... I think you'd like this one...
1228
01:12:36,286 --> 01:12:38,254
as an option.
1229
01:12:39,689 --> 01:12:41,156
Okay.
1230
01:12:56,206 --> 01:12:58,538
Bill, this was the one
that had the dining area...
1231
01:12:58,641 --> 01:13:00,632
My dear, l...
and the bigger kitchen.
1232
01:13:00,744 --> 01:13:03,770
I've never dined in, in my entire life.
1233
01:13:03,880 --> 01:13:05,848
Well, maybe you'll start.
1234
01:13:05,949 --> 01:13:08,247
This seems smaller.
1235
01:13:08,351 --> 01:13:10,410
A little bit.
It could be the lighting.
1236
01:13:10,520 --> 01:13:12,147
Yes.
Yeah.
1237
01:13:12,255 --> 01:13:13,722
Yeah, the view.
1238
01:13:19,529 --> 01:13:23,556
I appreciate your time, and I'll try
not to take more of it, you know?
1239
01:13:23,666 --> 01:13:26,100
You take as long as you need.
Well, yeah.
1240
01:13:36,579 --> 01:13:40,106
If you take one of these
apartments, when are you going to move?
1241
01:13:43,219 --> 01:13:46,382
What do you do with bicycles?
I don't know.
1242
01:14:08,044 --> 01:14:10,478
So I'm going to ask
you two very personal questions...
1243
01:14:10,580 --> 01:14:12,241
you may or may not want to answer.
1244
01:14:12,348 --> 01:14:13,815
It's completely up to you.
1245
01:14:13,917 --> 01:14:18,081
But have you ever had a romantic
relationship in your entire life?
1246
01:14:21,057 --> 01:14:23,491
Now, do you want to know
if I'm gay?
1247
01:14:23,593 --> 01:14:25,390
Yes.
1248
01:14:25,495 --> 01:14:26,962
Isn't that a riot?
1249
01:14:27,063 --> 01:14:31,557
Well, that's probably why the family wanted
to keep me out of the fashion world.
1250
01:14:31,668 --> 01:14:33,829
They wouldn't speak of such a thing.
1251
01:14:35,872 --> 01:14:37,897
No. I haven't.
1252
01:14:38,007 --> 01:14:42,034
Never in your entire life?
No. It never occurred to me.
1253
01:14:42,145 --> 01:14:44,238
I guess I just was interested in clothes.
1254
01:14:44,347 --> 01:14:46,781
That's the obsession.
1255
01:14:46,883 --> 01:14:49,852
It's probably a little peculiar.
1256
01:14:49,953 --> 01:14:51,818
Is that something you regret?
1257
01:14:53,389 --> 01:14:55,721
No. I wouldn't even think about it.
1258
01:14:55,825 --> 01:14:57,816
No, I don't regret it.
1259
01:14:57,927 --> 01:15:00,020
There was no time.
I was working night and day.
1260
01:15:00,129 --> 01:15:02,120
I mean, I don't know when you'd...
1261
01:15:02,232 --> 01:15:04,132
Uh, no, it was...
1262
01:15:06,436 --> 01:15:08,529
And in my family, uh,
1263
01:15:10,006 --> 01:15:12,907
things like that were never discussed.
1264
01:15:13,009 --> 01:15:15,500
So it never...
It wasn't even in my head or my mind.
1265
01:15:15,612 --> 01:15:18,103
I wouldn't have known a thing about it.
1266
01:15:18,214 --> 01:15:19,681
So they needn't have worried.
1267
01:15:19,782 --> 01:15:22,580
But years later, I surmised...
1268
01:15:22,685 --> 01:15:26,587
that that must have been
in the back of their minds.
1269
01:15:26,689 --> 01:15:29,817
And certainly the women
from Chez Ninon.
1270
01:15:31,127 --> 01:15:33,254
You've had good friends.
1271
01:15:33,363 --> 01:15:35,456
You've had good friends.
1272
01:15:35,565 --> 01:15:37,965
A few people that I've known.
1273
01:15:38,067 --> 01:15:40,558
Yes. Yeah.
1274
01:15:40,670 --> 01:15:42,331
Uh...
1275
01:15:42,438 --> 01:15:44,998
People that... Oh, you mean...
Just friends.
1276
01:15:45,108 --> 01:15:47,906
Oh, Yeah. Yeah.
No, I have friends.
1277
01:15:48,011 --> 01:15:50,377
I mean,
Antonio was a dear friend.
1278
01:15:50,480 --> 01:15:53,005
Oh, Antonio... I love those kids.
1279
01:15:53,116 --> 01:15:55,607
And Suzette.
Yes.
1280
01:15:55,718 --> 01:16:00,178
Yeah, they... It's just, I suppose I've...
1281
01:16:01,558 --> 01:16:02,684
I don't know.
1282
01:16:02,792 --> 01:16:06,956
You can't be in love with your work,
but I enjoyed it so much that it didn't...
1283
01:16:07,063 --> 01:16:09,156
Yeah.
1284
01:16:09,265 --> 01:16:11,256
But hey, listen, I am human.
1285
01:16:11,367 --> 01:16:13,767
Exactly.
1286
01:16:13,870 --> 01:16:18,671
You do have, uh, body urges
or whatever,
1287
01:16:18,775 --> 01:16:23,041
but, uh,
you control it as best you can.
1288
01:16:24,681 --> 01:16:28,242
And then the other question is...
and again, you don't have to answer this...
1289
01:16:28,351 --> 01:16:32,515
but I know that you go to church
every Sunday.
1290
01:16:32,622 --> 01:16:34,419
Oh, yeah.
1291
01:16:34,524 --> 01:16:36,151
And does religion...
1292
01:16:37,193 --> 01:16:40,094
Is that an important component
of your life?
1293
01:16:55,445 --> 01:16:57,913
We don't have to talk about this.
1294
01:17:02,552 --> 01:17:07,512
Yeah, I think it's a good guidance
in your life.
1295
01:17:09,759 --> 01:17:10,783
Uh...
1296
01:17:13,896 --> 01:17:18,094
Yeah, it's something I need and, uh...
1297
01:17:18,201 --> 01:17:20,726
Yeah, I guess maybe
it's part of your upbringing.
1298
01:17:20,837 --> 01:17:22,304
I don't know.
1299
01:17:24,007 --> 01:17:26,032
Whatever it is, everyone...
1300
01:17:26,142 --> 01:17:29,305
You do whatever you do
the best you can work things out,
1301
01:17:29,412 --> 01:17:31,346
but yeah.
1302
01:17:32,382 --> 01:17:35,374
I find it very important. Yeah.
1303
01:17:35,485 --> 01:17:37,851
For whatever reason.
I don't know.
1304
01:17:37,954 --> 01:17:39,819
As a kid...
1305
01:17:39,922 --> 01:17:43,449
I went to church and all I did
was look at women's hats.
1306
01:17:44,460 --> 01:17:45,757
You know.
1307
01:17:45,862 --> 01:17:51,129
But later, when you mature,
for different reasons.
1308
01:17:53,069 --> 01:17:55,264
There's nothing worse.
Yes, there is.
1309
01:17:55,371 --> 01:17:59,467
What you're about to go through
is worse than getting a pink slip.
1310
01:17:59,575 --> 01:18:01,736
All right? Are you ready?
1311
01:18:01,844 --> 01:18:03,812
Because it's this way. It's like...
1312
01:18:03,913 --> 01:18:05,642
Oh, my... Surprise!
1313
01:18:05,748 --> 01:18:08,546
Happy birthday!
1314
01:18:12,455 --> 01:18:15,447
Look at them all in those jackets!
1315
01:18:15,558 --> 01:18:17,355
How did you do it?
1316
01:18:17,460 --> 01:18:19,485
Spending all that money!
Oh!
1317
01:18:19,595 --> 01:18:21,586
Terrible. That's it.
We're taking you out the back way.
1318
01:18:21,698 --> 01:18:23,461
Look at those kids!
1319
01:18:30,306 --> 01:18:34,003
You kids are... You're a riot.
1320
01:18:34,110 --> 01:18:36,544
This old geezer...
1321
01:18:41,084 --> 01:18:42,915
...and we are so delighted...
1322
01:18:43,019 --> 01:18:45,886
to have you as part of our family
and be part of yours.
1323
01:18:45,988 --> 01:18:49,014
And... Family? I've fought
with every one of these kids!
1324
01:18:49,125 --> 01:18:50,786
That's family!
1325
01:18:50,893 --> 01:18:52,417
That's right. That's it.
1326
01:18:52,528 --> 01:18:53,995
That's right.
1327
01:18:55,531 --> 01:18:59,331
Gee whiz!
# Happy birthday to you #
1328
01:18:59,435 --> 01:19:03,394
# Happy birthday to you #
1329
01:19:03,506 --> 01:19:07,374
# Happy birthday, dear Bill #
1330
01:19:07,477 --> 01:19:12,414
Well, okay.
# Happy birthday to you ##
1331
01:19:12,515 --> 01:19:14,915
Don't forget to make a wish.
Let's see if I can get it, Melissa.
1332
01:19:15,017 --> 01:19:17,417
This old geezer...
1333
01:19:17,520 --> 01:19:19,818
Okay, kid. You got it.
1334
01:19:20,590 --> 01:19:22,057
Whoo!
1335
01:19:30,933 --> 01:19:32,798
That is really nice.
1336
01:19:34,871 --> 01:19:36,964
Bill, we wrote a...
I wrote a song for you.
1337
01:19:37,073 --> 01:19:38,563
Oh, my God.
1338
01:19:39,876 --> 01:19:44,779
# Bill, what's happening
out on the street today? #
1339
01:19:45,381 --> 01:19:50,011
# Bill, last night you partied
and now you pay #
1340
01:19:50,620 --> 01:19:55,648
# Bill, your page is late
and you're still out on your bike #
1341
01:19:55,758 --> 01:20:00,320
# Hemlines, black ties, fur coats,
pink scarves, sandals #
1342
01:20:00,429 --> 01:20:02,056
#When will you make your mind up? #
1343
01:20:02,165 --> 01:20:07,694
# Bill, you can't fit all those pictures
on the page #
1344
01:20:07,804 --> 01:20:13,367
# Bill, we're going blind
and we're half your age #
1345
01:20:13,476 --> 01:20:15,376
# Bill #
1346
01:20:15,478 --> 01:20:18,914
#Why can't we be like you are #
1347
01:20:19,015 --> 01:20:21,210
# Getting your own damn way #
1348
01:20:21,317 --> 01:20:26,277
# Oh, Bill, we celebrate you today ##
1349
01:20:26,389 --> 01:20:27,856
Yeah!
1350
01:21:52,842 --> 01:21:54,469
I just try to play a straight game,
1351
01:21:54,577 --> 01:21:58,479
and in New York that's very...
almost impossible.
1352
01:22:00,249 --> 01:22:02,740
To be honest and straight in New York,
1353
01:22:05,655 --> 01:22:09,489
that's like Don Quixote fighting windmills.
1354
01:22:09,592 --> 01:22:11,583
Ooh, hoo. Shut up, Cunningham.
1355
01:22:11,694 --> 01:22:15,357
Let's get this thing
on the road and get up and work.
1356
01:22:17,266 --> 01:22:20,064
All right, turn off the cameras.
We've had enough of this.
1357
01:22:20,169 --> 01:22:22,693
# I'll be your mirror #
1358
01:22:22,805 --> 01:22:24,796
# Reflect what you are #
1359
01:22:24,907 --> 01:22:26,602
# In case you don't know #
1360
01:22:26,709 --> 01:22:31,237
# I'll be the wind,
the rain and the sunset #
1361
01:22:31,347 --> 01:22:33,542
# A light on your door #
1362
01:22:33,649 --> 01:22:35,947
# To show that you're home #
1363
01:22:36,052 --> 01:22:40,079
# When you think the night
has seen your mind #
1364
01:22:40,189 --> 01:22:44,683
# That inside you're
twisted and unkind #
1365
01:22:44,794 --> 01:22:48,730
# Let me stand to show
that you are blind #
1366
01:22:48,831 --> 01:22:53,131
# Please put down your hands #
1367
01:22:53,235 --> 01:22:56,261
# 'Cause I see you #
1368
01:23:10,820 --> 01:23:14,984
#I find it hard
to believe you don't know #
1369
01:23:15,091 --> 01:23:16,752
# The beauty you are #
1370
01:23:16,859 --> 01:23:21,694
# But if you don't, let
me be your eyes #
1371
01:23:21,797 --> 01:23:23,890
# A hand to your darkness #
1372
01:23:24,000 --> 01:23:26,059
# So you won't be afraid #
1373
01:23:26,168 --> 01:23:30,400
# When you think
the night has seen your mind #
1374
01:23:30,506 --> 01:23:34,738
# That inside you're
twisted and unkind #
1375
01:23:34,844 --> 01:23:39,008
# Let me stand to show
that you are blind #
1376
01:23:39,115 --> 01:23:43,279
# Please put down your hands #
1377
01:23:43,386 --> 01:23:46,446
# 'Cause I see you #
1378
01:23:52,194 --> 01:23:56,324
# I'll be your mirror #
#Reflect what you are #
1379
01:23:56,432 --> 01:24:00,528
# I'll be your mirror #
# Reflect what you are #
1380
01:24:00,636 --> 01:24:04,834
# I'll be your mirror #
# Reflect what you are #
1381
01:24:04,940 --> 01:24:08,398
#I'll be your mirror #
#Reflect what you are ##
115934
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