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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:48,983 --> 00:00:54,056 The poetry of bus stops... 2 00:00:56,715 --> 00:01:03,065 It is the poetry of small forms, the poetry of small architectural objects. 3 00:01:05,589 --> 00:01:08,029 It is the poetry of the earth. 4 00:02:12,753 --> 00:02:14,040 Hey, pussycat. 5 00:02:23,730 --> 00:02:28,690 It's a chilly morning here in Gori, the birthplace of Stalin. 6 00:02:30,369 --> 00:02:33,769 Just trying to find my way out of town and back onto the highway. 7 00:02:36,570 --> 00:02:37,906 This car is a bit of a tank, 8 00:02:37,930 --> 00:02:40,710 but I'm sure it's going to be great going up the mountain. 9 00:02:42,350 --> 00:02:45,190 This is definitely not the way out. 10 00:02:46,750 --> 00:02:48,070 Okay, let me try that again. 11 00:03:18,930 --> 00:03:20,530 There's a bus stop I want to photograph. 12 00:03:21,630 --> 00:03:23,250 It has eluded me for years. 13 00:03:24,670 --> 00:03:27,710 It's up atop the 2,000-metre Goderdzi Pass. 14 00:03:28,670 --> 00:03:32,670 Like many of my favourite bus stops, it is found off the beaten track, 15 00:03:33,710 --> 00:03:35,770 hiding as if it didn't want any attention. 16 00:03:38,430 --> 00:03:43,050 I've been told this one has wings, like an angel up in the clouds. 17 00:03:48,370 --> 00:03:55,110 The poet Osip Mandelstam famously said "only in Russia poetry is respected". 18 00:03:56,890 --> 00:03:58,370 It gets people killed. 19 00:04:00,370 --> 00:04:02,890 He would later die on his way to the Gulag. 20 00:04:04,590 --> 00:04:09,050 It all makes me wonder, how were these bus stops possible during the Soviet Union? 21 00:04:18,060 --> 00:04:19,720 It's another 15 kilometres. 22 00:04:19,745 --> 00:04:21,854 The last couple of kilometres have been really rough. 23 00:04:21,879 --> 00:04:23,779 I don't know if I should actually go on. 24 00:04:24,380 --> 00:04:29,100 I mean, I want this bus stop, but... 25 00:04:29,940 --> 00:04:33,000 I mean, at some point this... 26 00:04:33,700 --> 00:04:35,076 It's ridiculous. 27 00:04:39,020 --> 00:04:43,660 I photographed my first Soviet bus stop by chance 20 years ago in Lithuania, 28 00:04:44,080 --> 00:04:45,880 while riding my bike to St Petersburg. 29 00:04:49,807 --> 00:04:52,847 Since then, I've taken pictures of thousands. 30 00:04:57,456 --> 00:05:00,736 When you see the bus stops together, collected, 31 00:05:01,030 --> 00:05:02,310 it becomes something grand. 32 00:05:04,750 --> 00:05:07,690 Over the years, the bus stops have become a part of me. 33 00:05:09,050 --> 00:05:12,370 Even in my dreams at night, I'm driving, searching, 34 00:05:12,730 --> 00:05:16,310 finding weird magical creations that I long for when I wake up. 35 00:06:44,159 --> 00:06:46,639 The bus stops are disappearing so fast. 36 00:06:50,106 --> 00:06:53,606 If I come back a year from now, they could be gone, 37 00:06:53,906 --> 00:06:55,405 demolished or rebuilt. 38 00:06:59,269 --> 00:07:02,009 These pictures may be all that's left in the end. 39 00:07:03,357 --> 00:07:05,697 I want to give them some kind of immortality. 40 00:07:16,012 --> 00:07:20,068 Not all the bus stops created in the Soviet Union were special, 41 00:07:20,446 --> 00:07:23,066 or what I would call a hero. 42 00:07:23,200 --> 00:07:25,920 Hundreds of thousands were built in basic designs, 43 00:07:26,380 --> 00:07:27,420 but thousands weren't. 44 00:07:28,520 --> 00:07:31,120 Unfortunately, it's not easy to find the unique ones. 45 00:07:31,640 --> 00:07:33,440 They can literally be anywhere. 46 00:07:35,952 --> 00:07:37,352 Good day. 47 00:07:38,540 --> 00:07:43,632 I am working on a project about old bus stops, the architecture. 48 00:07:43,720 --> 00:07:48,156 Do you know where this beautiful bus stop is? 49 00:07:48,180 --> 00:07:52,900 This is Tjernelivka and you are going to Tjepelivka. 50 00:08:00,833 --> 00:08:04,387 I wish I spoke better Russian so I understood exactly what they said. 51 00:08:05,523 --> 00:08:09,363 - Drive there to the traffic light. - And after the traffic lights? 52 00:08:09,542 --> 00:08:13,462 - Then you just have to go straight ahead. - Straight? 53 00:08:13,603 --> 00:08:18,603 It's after the traffic lights. I think so. 54 00:08:19,810 --> 00:08:22,296 Thereare no records or archives to work from 55 00:08:22,321 --> 00:08:25,283 so in the end, I just have to drive as much as I can. 56 00:08:27,420 --> 00:08:32,880 So far I've covered over 50,000 kilometres of roads in all 15 countries. 57 00:08:33,880 --> 00:08:36,103 The Soviet Union was massive 58 00:08:36,127 --> 00:08:40,426 and had a road network of almost 2 million kilometres. 59 00:09:03,490 --> 00:09:09,306 Since I can't drive every single road, I try and do as much homework as I can. 60 00:09:09,330 --> 00:09:14,550 But too often, I find a bus stop, and by the time I get there, 61 00:09:14,990 --> 00:09:15,990 it's already gone. 62 00:09:22,037 --> 00:09:23,617 Definitely not on that road. 63 00:09:29,140 --> 00:09:35,572 And at the crossroads you have to go straight ahead. 64 00:10:06,300 --> 00:10:09,580 This bus stop is exciting and beautiful. 65 00:10:09,820 --> 00:10:12,720 In Canada they are all so boring. 66 00:10:29,860 --> 00:10:32,340 The bus stops, they're a mystery to me. 67 00:10:34,240 --> 00:10:37,280 Despite their humble size, they seem so brave. 68 00:10:39,300 --> 00:10:42,020 Were these unique designs an act of rebellion? 69 00:10:42,860 --> 00:10:47,400 A discreet cry for freedom in a society where everything was controlled? 70 00:10:50,887 --> 00:10:53,763 Or was this all part of Soviet state propaganda? 71 00:10:55,773 --> 00:10:57,120 Who made these? 72 00:11:08,043 --> 00:11:11,723 In Soviet cities, housing construction has priority. 73 00:11:12,289 --> 00:11:15,566 The soviet industrial might has been turned 74 00:11:15,590 --> 00:11:18,163 to the biggest housing program in the history of the world. 75 00:11:18,482 --> 00:11:21,928 There are fourteen other republics in the Soviet Union. 76 00:11:21,953 --> 00:11:24,338 And many minority nationalities. 77 00:11:24,987 --> 00:11:27,881 47% of the people are not Russian. 78 00:11:28,314 --> 00:11:31,387 The Soviet economy, regulated by a central plan, 79 00:11:31,507 --> 00:11:33,615 Puts a low priority on things like 80 00:11:33,639 --> 00:11:36,494 fashionable clothing that are not necessities. 81 00:11:39,463 --> 00:11:44,056 In this land, all forms of communication are controlled by the State. 82 00:11:44,776 --> 00:11:47,383 The Bolshevik revolutionaries recognised 83 00:11:47,596 --> 00:11:51,616 that the arts could be powerful tools in moulding the new society. 84 00:11:52,250 --> 00:11:57,084 The fine arts of music or painting could also carry political messages. 85 00:11:57,504 --> 00:11:59,171 Art must be useful, 86 00:11:59,421 --> 00:12:01,948 and experimentation is discouraged. 87 00:12:02,266 --> 00:12:07,986 And since the 1930s, there has been no place for the artist who is an individual. 88 00:12:26,897 --> 00:12:29,841 The initial idea in the 1960s, 89 00:12:29,875 --> 00:12:34,383 if we're talking about this Modernist, post-Stalinist period, 90 00:12:34,943 --> 00:12:39,517 was to build everything cheap and easy and quick, 91 00:12:39,541 --> 00:12:43,163 with standard designs. 92 00:12:46,520 --> 00:12:52,400 Soviet system wanted to all be planned. 93 00:13:13,649 --> 00:13:18,549 A Latvian friend once joked to me about how everything back then was standardized, 94 00:13:18,770 --> 00:13:19,770 even the food. 95 00:13:21,190 --> 00:13:23,953 A chicken Kiev ordered in Tashkent or Murmansk 96 00:13:23,977 --> 00:13:26,370 would look and taste exactly the same. 97 00:13:33,677 --> 00:13:38,597 Whereas the collection of bus stops is full of unstandardized designs. 98 00:13:41,030 --> 00:13:43,910 In an era where everything was so controlled, 99 00:13:44,490 --> 00:13:46,950 part of me wishes for one easy explanation. 100 00:13:47,630 --> 00:13:50,710 A beautiful central master plan for the bus stops. 101 00:13:51,290 --> 00:13:52,290 But none exist. 102 00:13:55,450 --> 00:13:58,026 There are no official records of who made them. 103 00:13:58,050 --> 00:14:00,590 So every time I track down one of the creators, 104 00:14:01,150 --> 00:14:02,370 it's a huge victory. 105 00:14:03,883 --> 00:14:10,163 - My name is Enu Mäela. - And my name is Jüri Konsap. 106 00:14:10,323 --> 00:14:17,563 Horse flies. We had them back then. With two wings and so on, just smaller. 107 00:14:17,723 --> 00:14:25,483 Probably they were hungry, like us. There was far less food back then. 108 00:14:25,643 --> 00:14:28,736 So it took more work to survive. 109 00:14:29,637 --> 00:14:33,957 We made this bus stop. 110 00:14:34,570 --> 00:14:41,432 I never heard it called anything other than "the spider". 111 00:14:43,850 --> 00:14:46,115 It looks like one. 112 00:14:48,460 --> 00:14:51,839 In 1971, Yuri and Enu created this wooden spider 113 00:14:51,863 --> 00:14:55,310 for this furniture factory they worked at. 114 00:15:01,920 --> 00:15:05,132 The Soviet artist Mayakovsky famously said, 115 00:15:05,156 --> 00:15:09,520 art should not be mainly in dead shrines called museums. 116 00:15:10,660 --> 00:15:14,140 Instead, it should be on the streets and in the factories. 117 00:15:27,740 --> 00:15:32,040 As we've seen several times, it's right outside of a factory. 118 00:15:33,040 --> 00:15:36,840 Totally unique design, obviously they've just had it made for the workers, 119 00:15:37,160 --> 00:15:38,160 for the factory. 120 00:15:38,960 --> 00:15:40,020 It's kind of cool. 121 00:15:43,830 --> 00:15:47,610 In 400 metres, your destination will be on the left. 122 00:15:47,970 --> 00:15:48,970 Okay, look at that. 123 00:15:50,150 --> 00:15:52,910 And the windmill actually works on this thing. 124 00:15:55,410 --> 00:15:57,050 Oh, God, it's slippery. 125 00:15:59,203 --> 00:16:02,823 - Do you like our bus stop? - Yes, I've come to see it. 126 00:16:04,356 --> 00:16:10,683 I am working on a project where I photograph bus stops. 127 00:16:10,843 --> 00:16:15,523 I am a librarian and was wondering what you found interesting. 128 00:16:15,683 --> 00:16:23,203 - I think it's beautiful. - Our factory director built it. 129 00:16:23,363 --> 00:16:28,283 Okay. Interesting. Goodbye. 130 00:16:29,603 --> 00:16:34,403 Yes, it works. Ball bearings. 131 00:16:39,883 --> 00:16:44,883 - It's great. - It stalls when the wind is calm. 132 00:16:48,630 --> 00:16:50,450 They don't seem that vicious. 133 00:16:54,880 --> 00:16:57,840 So since now photo and video shooting is prohibited, 134 00:16:58,600 --> 00:17:01,700 we'll just get close to the bus station, you just shoot. 135 00:17:11,400 --> 00:17:15,840 What makes Chernobyl fascinating for me is that it's pretty much frozen in time. 136 00:17:16,400 --> 00:17:18,560 Very little has been removed or changed. 137 00:17:19,060 --> 00:17:21,080 No one is tearing down the bus stops here. 138 00:17:21,880 --> 00:17:29,140 You can see on the glass here still this imprint of the A for Octopus with wings, 139 00:17:29,320 --> 00:17:31,000 which I think is quite cool. 140 00:17:34,443 --> 00:17:36,410 - Look straight ahead? - Up here. 141 00:17:43,380 --> 00:17:47,368 We're standing on it, and you see that the guy with the counter is just going off 142 00:17:47,392 --> 00:17:51,380 because of the radiation that travelled deeper into the soil after the accident. 143 00:17:54,860 --> 00:17:55,860 I'm freezing. 144 00:18:10,280 --> 00:18:12,560 Oh, but there's also little animal prints. 145 00:18:13,420 --> 00:18:15,060 An animal came from somewhere over there. 146 00:18:16,120 --> 00:18:20,040 You can see maybe a rabbit or something. 147 00:18:21,995 --> 00:18:22,995 Quite like the bear. 148 00:18:23,020 --> 00:18:25,619 I mean, I guess it looks quite like the bear 149 00:18:25,643 --> 00:18:29,700 they had as their official mascot for the 1980 Olympics in Moscow. 150 00:18:30,460 --> 00:18:35,560 I mean, I guess what it was used for is that's the main road to the plant, 151 00:18:35,700 --> 00:18:37,120 and then this is a turn-off here. 152 00:18:37,440 --> 00:18:39,680 Even though there isn't a house or anything around here, 153 00:18:40,620 --> 00:18:44,740 people would, I guess, switch buses or change buses to go up to this. 154 00:18:45,340 --> 00:18:49,560 There's a military surveillance centre up at the end of this road, 155 00:18:50,020 --> 00:18:54,600 which the Soviets used to detect missile launches. 156 00:18:57,890 --> 00:19:02,550 As a child, I often pictured the Iron Curtain being a physical thing. 157 00:19:04,310 --> 00:19:09,130 The Dugar radar system near Chernobyl, nicknamed the Russian Woodpecker, 158 00:19:09,530 --> 00:19:11,010 is close to what I imagined. 159 00:19:12,970 --> 00:19:17,275 Besides missile detection, it also transmitted a sharp staccato sound 160 00:19:17,299 --> 00:19:20,270 disrupting radio communications with the West, 161 00:19:23,550 --> 00:19:26,230 leaving people to wonder what was on the other side. 162 00:19:41,103 --> 00:19:44,376 Welcome to Minsk, ladies and gentlemen, please remain seated 163 00:19:44,400 --> 00:19:48,900 with your seat belts fastened until the seat belt signs have been switched off. 164 00:19:51,443 --> 00:19:55,643 When we talk about the Soviet era - 165 00:19:55,803 --> 00:19:59,923 - is it primarily as a totalitarian period. 166 00:20:00,083 --> 00:20:04,563 There was only one ideology. 167 00:20:04,723 --> 00:20:10,163 People's focus was on fixed, predetermined ideals. 168 00:20:10,329 --> 00:20:17,818 There was to be only one style in architecture, literature and music. 169 00:20:20,847 --> 00:20:25,204 One of the first major speeches of Nikita Khrushchev after the death of Stalin 170 00:20:25,229 --> 00:20:28,848 included praising the benefits of prefabricated concrete slabs, 171 00:20:29,740 --> 00:20:32,080 the building blocks of a socialist utopia. 172 00:20:33,020 --> 00:20:35,401 Khrushchevka became the unofficial name 173 00:20:35,425 --> 00:20:38,480 of the rows of easy-to-construct apartment blocks, 174 00:20:39,060 --> 00:20:41,980 using these revolutionary concrete panels. 175 00:20:42,259 --> 00:20:47,083 660 million square metres - 176 00:20:47,243 --> 00:20:51,403 - or approximately 15 million apartments... 177 00:20:51,563 --> 00:20:55,563 The party indicated a solution to the housing problem: 178 00:20:55,723 --> 00:20:58,723 The creation of a strong construction industry. 179 00:20:58,883 --> 00:21:02,363 And such an industry has been created. 180 00:21:02,523 --> 00:21:07,683 Spread across the country, there are 1800 mechanized factories - 181 00:21:07,708 --> 00:21:11,306 - producing large concrete blocks for the construction of houses. 182 00:21:16,620 --> 00:21:23,959 ♪ Bridges are built from bank to bank. ♪ 183 00:21:24,180 --> 00:21:32,180 ♪ And everything that catches the eye is created by construction workers. ♪ 184 00:21:32,205 --> 00:21:37,630 ♪ And everything that catches the eye is created by construction workers. ♪ 185 00:21:40,983 --> 00:21:44,531 I suspect some of these concrete slabs... 186 00:21:44,570 --> 00:21:47,230 You can see that they have like little hooks on them. 187 00:21:47,310 --> 00:21:49,684 I think they're sort of prefab concrete 188 00:21:49,708 --> 00:21:53,490 that probably has a different purpose originally and was just, 189 00:21:54,250 --> 00:21:56,348 you know, they used what they had 190 00:21:56,372 --> 00:21:59,750 and sort of tried to make something quirky out of it. 191 00:22:00,570 --> 00:22:03,750 It's simple, it's kind of clean, but it's a cool bus stop. 192 00:22:04,010 --> 00:22:07,030 It reminds me a lot of my favourite from Kazakhstan, 193 00:22:07,930 --> 00:22:11,310 that's also in sort of a similar kind of wheat field setting. 194 00:22:33,100 --> 00:22:35,980 Historians claim that like everything in the Soviet Union, 195 00:22:36,320 --> 00:22:39,480 the unique bus stops only exist because they carry a message. 196 00:22:40,640 --> 00:22:43,240 Obviously, some were Soviet propaganda. 197 00:22:44,420 --> 00:22:46,980 But I don't think that was always the case. 198 00:22:50,420 --> 00:22:53,800 I often regret naming my books Soviet bus stops. 199 00:22:56,080 --> 00:23:01,036 Many celebrate a local town or a region more than the Soviet state, 200 00:23:01,060 --> 00:23:05,380 while others just celebrate the creative spirit of whoever made it. 201 00:23:06,203 --> 00:23:09,643 The uniqueness of a bus stop - 202 00:23:09,803 --> 00:23:17,803 - was also based on regional differences - 203 00:23:18,436 --> 00:23:21,567 - between different republics. 204 00:23:22,122 --> 00:23:27,978 Belarus had their solutions, we Lithuanians had ours. 205 00:23:28,138 --> 00:23:31,858 Other republics also differed. 206 00:23:32,200 --> 00:23:34,180 They became a place to gather. 207 00:23:36,000 --> 00:23:37,756 They brought art to the public 208 00:23:37,780 --> 00:23:42,600 and often involved the local community in the construction and decorating process. 209 00:23:43,240 --> 00:23:45,720 One could see this as socialism in action. 210 00:23:46,560 --> 00:23:50,880 Or, is the fact that I'm thinking this, proof that they are all propaganda? 211 00:23:51,280 --> 00:23:56,220 And I am Lenin's Polesny-Durak, a useful idiot seduced by the master plan. 212 00:23:57,713 --> 00:23:59,816 I've been looking forward to finding this bus stop. 213 00:23:59,840 --> 00:24:01,080 It's really quite wild. 214 00:24:01,660 --> 00:24:07,220 As you can see, it's a bird which sort of can climb inside its wings for protection. 215 00:24:07,420 --> 00:24:10,480 So I mean, I think this is one of the more sort of outlandish designs, 216 00:24:10,600 --> 00:24:11,640 which I really quite like. 217 00:24:11,700 --> 00:24:13,120 I think it's, yeah, a lot of fun. 218 00:24:33,740 --> 00:24:38,096 For me, the bus stops are an alternative window in which to view the Soviet era. 219 00:24:38,120 --> 00:24:43,900 The state was brutal, but I'm interested in what the individuals did. 220 00:24:45,165 --> 00:24:49,218 The Soviet period was an absolutely cruel moment 221 00:24:49,246 --> 00:24:55,153 but on the other hand, it's a huge part of the history of our country. 222 00:24:55,178 --> 00:24:57,983 A huge part of the history of our lives. 223 00:24:58,008 --> 00:25:02,617 We tried to sow in this period some positive moments. 224 00:25:02,642 --> 00:25:08,755 For example, some progressive points of culture, some progressive points of art. 225 00:25:24,660 --> 00:25:27,340 You ask "why bus stops?". 226 00:25:28,060 --> 00:25:33,020 In the socialist world, individual transportation was limited. 227 00:25:33,600 --> 00:25:37,900 It was not developed. People didn't have cars to a large extent. 228 00:25:39,080 --> 00:25:44,840 The entire system was built on bus routes. 229 00:25:45,100 --> 00:25:47,540 That was what united the country. 230 00:26:09,389 --> 00:26:13,621 The bus stop made sure we got a new road. 231 00:26:13,850 --> 00:26:18,813 We didn't wait for an order but made it for the locals. 232 00:26:18,950 --> 00:26:24,061 No one saw it as something Soviet. It was ours. 233 00:26:24,803 --> 00:26:27,483 It had to be comfortable and look good. 234 00:26:44,010 --> 00:26:47,630 How did the bus stops get away with not being standardized? 235 00:26:49,573 --> 00:26:54,020 One reason is that the bus stops were classified as a minor architectural form. 236 00:26:56,140 --> 00:26:58,420 There's something to be said about being small, 237 00:26:59,100 --> 00:27:01,800 non-threatening, quiet. 238 00:27:04,266 --> 00:27:06,326 I think this is what I've been looking for. 239 00:27:08,240 --> 00:27:09,780 I don't know what is in the pipes. 240 00:27:09,880 --> 00:27:11,800 Maybe it's gas or some kind of water. 241 00:27:13,300 --> 00:27:16,375 But in the towns, because they don't bury them always underground, 242 00:27:16,400 --> 00:27:18,273 so they have them out of ground. 243 00:27:18,400 --> 00:27:21,953 And so you'll often see them built up like this where people drive through. 244 00:27:22,513 --> 00:27:25,033 And the pipe is running straight into the bus stop. 245 00:27:25,080 --> 00:27:27,511 And so they've actually built in the pipe 246 00:27:27,535 --> 00:27:30,860 to go up and over and support it on top of the bus stop. 247 00:27:38,603 --> 00:27:43,832 When we talk about smaller small buildings, 248 00:27:44,165 --> 00:27:50,980 there were no regulations and rules. 249 00:27:51,729 --> 00:27:57,168 Everything was based on the architects' knowledge and ideas, 250 00:27:57,540 --> 00:28:01,220 which were then implemented. 251 00:28:01,271 --> 00:28:05,858 The bus stops in the cities were standardized. 252 00:28:07,180 --> 00:28:09,760 That made them cheaper to build. 253 00:28:12,020 --> 00:28:18,180 The bus stops in the countryside were not standardized. 254 00:28:24,920 --> 00:28:30,480 - Try saying that again. - The NATO forces are getting closer. 255 00:28:31,780 --> 00:28:36,500 - Closer? I do not understand. - Your Russian is bad. 256 00:28:36,586 --> 00:28:40,526 Yes, I'm sorry about that. But the road should be good? 257 00:28:41,749 --> 00:28:45,146 - It goes through the taiga. - Taiga? 258 00:28:45,460 --> 00:28:48,880 - It is a type of forest. - Thanks. Goodbye. 259 00:28:49,403 --> 00:28:50,996 Good luck. 260 00:29:20,769 --> 00:29:25,109 I am very interested in this bus stop. 261 00:29:25,683 --> 00:29:29,906 Why is there such a beautiful one here? 262 00:29:30,656 --> 00:29:34,116 I do not know. Our village is very beautiful. 263 00:29:34,370 --> 00:29:42,230 They have put a burkhan on top. We have everything. We have berries. 264 00:29:42,510 --> 00:29:48,985 Okay. And is this the traditional architecture? 265 00:29:49,070 --> 00:29:54,426 - Your bus is coming. - My daughter at home knows languages. 266 00:29:54,975 --> 00:29:57,490 Thanks. Take care. 267 00:30:08,072 --> 00:30:13,008 Of course, the farther from the centre, the less control. 268 00:30:13,033 --> 00:30:15,573 It's a huge territory, you know. 269 00:30:15,800 --> 00:30:18,280 You can't control everything from one point. 270 00:30:25,283 --> 00:30:30,983 Or maybe there was some strong local figure who has control, 271 00:30:31,130 --> 00:30:36,190 but he wants to do something different that was suggested from the centre. 272 00:30:44,070 --> 00:30:48,570 The late George Shikava was one of those local officials with influence. 273 00:30:49,170 --> 00:30:52,446 He was the deputy minister of highway construction in Georgia. 274 00:30:52,470 --> 00:30:54,856 At the same time, he was an architect 275 00:30:54,880 --> 00:30:58,950 and helped design the iconic ministry building where he worked. 276 00:31:01,450 --> 00:31:03,690 This building up here is really cool. 277 00:31:03,850 --> 00:31:05,950 It used to be the Ministry of Transportation. 278 00:31:07,450 --> 00:31:10,797 More importantly, he used his position in the late 1960s 279 00:31:10,821 --> 00:31:15,450 to really push the limits and become a pioneer in bus stop experimentation, 280 00:31:22,080 --> 00:31:25,120 inspiring artists throughout the Soviet Union. 281 00:31:30,030 --> 00:31:36,580 Shikava was deputy minister of the Ministry of Car Roads. 282 00:31:37,010 --> 00:31:40,356 In this case, he was basically a commissioner 283 00:31:40,380 --> 00:31:42,810 and commissionee in one person. 284 00:31:43,110 --> 00:31:44,590 - He was the client. - Exactly. 285 00:31:44,990 --> 00:31:48,590 And I guess it gave him, as a deputy minister, 286 00:31:48,850 --> 00:31:52,388 as a chief architect, it gave him a lot of freedom 287 00:31:52,412 --> 00:31:55,950 to design what he wanted or the way he imagined. 288 00:31:56,210 --> 00:32:00,590 So he gave total freedom to his imagination to create this form. 289 00:32:07,770 --> 00:32:08,770 This is amazing. 290 00:32:08,990 --> 00:32:11,590 This is it being built. 291 00:32:13,250 --> 00:32:14,430 And what are we looking at? 292 00:32:14,470 --> 00:32:15,690 It's like a metal frame. 293 00:32:16,170 --> 00:32:18,770 They would experiment on this part. 294 00:32:18,896 --> 00:32:20,010 Was it formed? 295 00:32:20,130 --> 00:32:22,317 Was there wood around that they poured in? 296 00:32:22,342 --> 00:32:23,345 No, no, no. 297 00:32:23,370 --> 00:32:26,430 They applied it with the hand, just like very primitively, 298 00:32:26,455 --> 00:32:27,465 very basically. 299 00:32:27,490 --> 00:32:29,590 They would put cement and then make it straight. 300 00:32:29,890 --> 00:32:32,070 And this was in the late 60s? 301 00:32:32,230 --> 00:32:35,310 This was late 60s, early 70s. 302 00:32:40,923 --> 00:32:43,931 How does it work? - Look there. 303 00:32:43,955 --> 00:32:46,963 Do you want to photograph me? 304 00:32:50,630 --> 00:32:54,470 There was quite a lovely exchange. 305 00:32:56,270 --> 00:33:01,830 Lively, I mean to say, exchange between architects from different republics. 306 00:33:02,010 --> 00:33:05,810 So people knew what was happening in other places. 307 00:33:06,770 --> 00:33:11,910 And maybe they got challenged and wanted to make better. 308 00:33:15,523 --> 00:33:21,203 It was some kind of club. It was a friendship. 309 00:33:21,457 --> 00:33:25,905 I worked in the road system. 310 00:33:25,930 --> 00:33:28,670 We met once or twice a year. 311 00:33:29,010 --> 00:33:35,990 These are the medals I received in Moscow for my bus stop. 312 00:33:36,650 --> 00:33:43,330 I am very proud to have had the opportunity. 313 00:33:43,490 --> 00:33:45,990 The goal was not to be rewarded, but we were invited, 314 00:33:46,950 --> 00:33:50,410 we met and exchanged ideas. 315 00:33:55,680 --> 00:33:59,123 I used my imagination. 316 00:33:59,773 --> 00:34:06,003 What is the purpose of a bus stop? 317 00:34:06,619 --> 00:34:14,115 It must protect those waiting from rain, sun and snow. 318 00:34:17,624 --> 00:34:23,239 The hole here can be used to see if the bus is on its way. 319 00:34:24,240 --> 00:34:31,120 It is also important that the bus stop is nice to look at. 320 00:34:32,700 --> 00:34:34,440 It should beautify the road. 321 00:34:38,818 --> 00:34:41,351 I think they do beautify the road. 322 00:34:41,524 --> 00:34:44,334 A woman once told me that seeing the photos now 323 00:34:44,358 --> 00:34:49,712 reminded her of being a child, travelling on holiday from Vilnius to the Black Sea. 324 00:34:49,950 --> 00:34:51,899 She would just stare out the window, 325 00:34:51,923 --> 00:34:55,670 waiting for the fun-looking bus stops to entertain her along the way. 326 00:34:56,590 --> 00:34:58,010 They're happy memories for her. 327 00:35:14,116 --> 00:35:16,996 Amazing, brutal bus stop here just outside of Samarkand. 328 00:35:17,048 --> 00:35:18,138 Love it. 329 00:35:18,163 --> 00:35:21,323 I mean, sharp lines, nothing I've ever seen before. 330 00:35:21,910 --> 00:35:23,150 It's close to the airport. 331 00:35:23,310 --> 00:35:29,410 You can see they've got an old, like, Soviet Aeroflot mosaic on the wall here. 332 00:35:31,623 --> 00:35:34,143 No, it's great. 333 00:35:34,383 --> 00:35:40,245 Nice, open scenery behind it, nothing really obscuring it too much. 334 00:35:40,270 --> 00:35:43,650 I mean, it's a bit tough with the traffic to find the right angle, 335 00:35:43,680 --> 00:35:47,150 but I think I'm going to get something that I'm really going to love here. 336 00:35:47,563 --> 00:35:51,186 You have to go into town. It is beautiful in the city. 337 00:35:51,210 --> 00:35:54,430 In Samarkand? Yes, it is beautiful. 338 00:35:55,316 --> 00:36:00,716 You can take beautiful pictures there. It's not pretty here. 339 00:36:00,930 --> 00:36:05,190 No, no, I'm interested in the architecture here. 340 00:36:17,970 --> 00:36:21,150 It looks like the one in the picture, but it doesn't look good in real life. 341 00:36:21,773 --> 00:36:23,130 It's not beautiful. 342 00:36:23,810 --> 00:36:24,810 OK. 343 00:36:52,000 --> 00:36:55,517 I always thought it was a rooster or a chicken or something, but it's a... 344 00:36:55,541 --> 00:36:56,980 Well, they called it elephant. 345 00:36:57,160 --> 00:36:58,356 There is a sketch... 346 00:36:58,380 --> 00:37:00,680 There's also, close to this, there's one that's a fish. 347 00:37:01,480 --> 00:37:06,693 There is a fish, there is a cat, there is a saddle, 348 00:37:06,781 --> 00:37:09,680 This one is this blue octopus, yeah. 349 00:37:10,300 --> 00:37:11,300 That's how it started? 350 00:37:11,522 --> 00:37:12,640 That's how it started. 351 00:37:12,720 --> 00:37:13,720 Oh, my God. 352 00:37:13,760 --> 00:37:14,760 Oh, that's so groovy. 353 00:37:14,960 --> 00:37:17,297 - And so a car crashed into this? - Yeah. 354 00:37:17,321 --> 00:37:18,580 And then they took it down. 355 00:37:19,320 --> 00:37:20,320 Unfortunately. 356 00:37:20,780 --> 00:37:23,200 The concrete octopus was one of my favourites. 357 00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:27,080 The older a bus stop gets, the worse it looks, 358 00:37:27,360 --> 00:37:29,240 and some people think they're an embarrassment. 359 00:37:29,580 --> 00:37:31,976 There is a food stall or a small shop. 360 00:37:32,000 --> 00:37:33,573 When I'm photographing them, 361 00:37:33,597 --> 00:37:35,566 I often have to try to convince people 362 00:37:35,590 --> 00:37:38,340 that I'm not trying to make their community look bad, 363 00:37:39,180 --> 00:37:40,504 but rather the opposite, 364 00:37:40,528 --> 00:37:44,356 that the bus stop is something special that I want to make look good. 365 00:37:44,380 --> 00:37:45,380 Hello. 366 00:37:46,540 --> 00:37:48,400 Good day. I am a photographer from Canada... 367 00:37:48,480 --> 00:37:51,920 - It's not a gallery, it's a market. - Market? 368 00:37:52,920 --> 00:37:58,097 Yes, it's a market. There's no gallery here. 369 00:37:58,121 --> 00:38:00,940 Here you can buy pomegranates and clementines. 370 00:38:02,140 --> 00:38:07,356 - I'm making a photo book... - There's nothing here. 371 00:38:07,380 --> 00:38:13,876 They were never published, you know, as an expression of people's art. 372 00:38:13,900 --> 00:38:16,680 So it was just ignored. 373 00:38:18,000 --> 00:38:22,100 Most bus stops retained some resemblance to a functioning shelter, 374 00:38:22,520 --> 00:38:25,803 while others took full advantage of the opportunity 375 00:38:25,827 --> 00:38:28,320 and were more art than anything else. 376 00:38:28,900 --> 00:38:31,760 Without a care if it worked as a bus stop. 377 00:38:34,923 --> 00:38:40,843 I cannot answer why there is no roof. That's their problem. 378 00:38:41,003 --> 00:38:43,723 I make art. 379 00:38:44,200 --> 00:38:49,020 The Black Sea coast, at the time also known as the Soviet Riviera, 380 00:38:49,280 --> 00:38:50,980 was a popular holiday escape. 381 00:38:52,160 --> 00:38:55,540 It was here in the late 60s a young Georgian artist, 382 00:38:56,060 --> 00:39:00,640 Zurab Tsereteli, would decorate bus stops using colourful mosaic tiles. 383 00:39:01,320 --> 00:39:03,780 He would go on to a prolific career as an artist. 384 00:39:04,399 --> 00:39:07,176 I decorated many bus stops. 385 00:39:07,259 --> 00:39:09,336 And here it is. 386 00:39:15,260 --> 00:39:17,351 This is my mosaic. 387 00:39:20,653 --> 00:39:22,766 My name is Zurab Tsereteli. 388 00:39:26,720 --> 00:39:32,580 I'm still young. Because when you make art - 389 00:39:33,599 --> 00:39:36,939 - you don't get old because you work every day. 390 00:39:38,159 --> 00:39:46,019 These great architects from the state project invited me to it. 391 00:39:46,640 --> 00:39:50,717 I worked with them after art academy. 392 00:39:51,020 --> 00:39:55,940 It was extremely educational. Why I made them? 393 00:39:56,060 --> 00:39:58,776 Because they required the hand of an artist. 394 00:39:59,370 --> 00:40:05,315 You cannot deviate from the forms. An artist's hand must touch everything - 395 00:40:05,340 --> 00:40:08,920 - from a toilet door 396 00:40:08,986 --> 00:40:13,680 to a large architectural work. 397 00:40:22,776 --> 00:40:25,453 Something's wrong with the sound. 398 00:40:26,633 --> 00:40:28,301 Can you hear me? 399 00:40:29,508 --> 00:40:32,688 Hi Victor. How are you? 400 00:40:34,413 --> 00:40:35,753 I'm well. 401 00:40:35,860 --> 00:40:39,440 Good, good. Same here. 402 00:40:41,700 --> 00:40:43,861 I could feel inside, 403 00:40:44,775 --> 00:40:47,462 with these projects, 404 00:40:47,517 --> 00:40:55,060 that I wanted to work with the aesthetics of bus stops. 405 00:40:56,720 --> 00:41:01,320 Because it is a living organism. 406 00:41:01,587 --> 00:41:06,417 There are many who meet there and chat, and then they part again. 407 00:41:09,119 --> 00:41:13,089 When drawing small buildings, 408 00:41:14,049 --> 00:41:20,716 it is important to take the surroundings into consideration. 409 00:41:23,000 --> 00:41:29,080 From a philosophical point of view, a road reminds me of music. 410 00:41:29,300 --> 00:41:35,846 Because just as music moves forward in time - 411 00:41:35,870 --> 00:41:39,696 - a road does the same. 412 00:41:39,816 --> 00:41:46,220 That's why it's not just about big things and loud noises - 413 00:41:46,260 --> 00:41:49,920 - but also about the small pauses and silences. 414 00:42:21,200 --> 00:42:24,020 Harman calls it the poetry of the road. 415 00:42:27,340 --> 00:42:30,540 This is also what gets me excited about photographing them. 416 00:42:31,060 --> 00:42:34,520 Trying to find the best angle that shows off the bus stop, 417 00:42:34,820 --> 00:42:37,940 but balanced with its relationship to the surroundings. 418 00:42:46,030 --> 00:42:51,950 I mean, this fog really helps pull the bus stop out from the background, 419 00:42:52,210 --> 00:42:53,650 and it's nice. 420 00:42:53,790 --> 00:42:58,470 I really like this much more than a sunny blue sky. 421 00:42:59,470 --> 00:43:02,326 Not that I'm trying to make it look depressing or anything, 422 00:43:02,350 --> 00:43:06,690 I just want the bus stop to stand out from its surroundings. 423 00:43:07,370 --> 00:43:12,910 Fog and snow and clean horizons help me do that. 424 00:43:31,880 --> 00:43:39,219 ♪ The smooth run of my fate. ♪ 425 00:43:39,243 --> 00:43:46,843 ♪ Night, sorrow and the glitter of the soul. ♪ 426 00:43:47,006 --> 00:43:54,310 ♪ Moonlight and rainy days in May. ♪ 427 00:43:56,963 --> 00:44:03,963 ♪ At dawn, voices call to me. ♪ 428 00:44:04,056 --> 00:44:08,645 ♪ At dawn, voices call... ♪ 429 00:44:25,886 --> 00:44:28,460 For me there's a sense of freedom to these bus stops, 430 00:44:28,947 --> 00:44:32,504 maybe because no one was signing their name in the concrete. 431 00:44:37,000 --> 00:44:40,480 Sometimes an architect could sketch up a design in the Ukraine. 432 00:44:41,100 --> 00:44:44,356 It would make its way to a construction team in Tajikistan. 433 00:44:44,380 --> 00:44:48,340 They would use it to create something on their own. 434 00:44:49,160 --> 00:44:50,640 Getting credit wasn't an issue. 435 00:44:51,320 --> 00:44:55,920 It was all just a rare opportunity to take an idea and see where it leads. 436 00:44:56,560 --> 00:44:59,940 No fame was involved, but also no real blame. 437 00:45:00,700 --> 00:45:03,020 A liberating thought when it comes to being creative. 438 00:45:45,680 --> 00:45:50,980 The Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, and that was also the end of the bus stops. 439 00:45:51,660 --> 00:45:55,220 Investing in unique bus stops is unlikely in a capitalist society. 440 00:45:55,700 --> 00:45:58,040 Even preserving them is not a priority. 441 00:45:59,240 --> 00:46:01,228 When I photographed this one, 442 00:46:01,253 --> 00:46:04,464 I had no idea that the legendary architect George Chikava created it 443 00:46:04,834 --> 00:46:08,106 using interlocking concrete components that he designed. 444 00:46:15,970 --> 00:46:18,347 I guess there used to be an old road here, 445 00:46:18,570 --> 00:46:21,629 so they've just kind of left it in the farmer's field. 446 00:46:22,150 --> 00:46:24,850 They've built a new bus stop over there, right beside it. 447 00:46:28,520 --> 00:46:32,640 This bus stop was demolished a year after I photographed it. 448 00:46:37,940 --> 00:46:40,229 Nanna Zaleshvili is part of a new movement 449 00:46:40,253 --> 00:46:42,975 of young people growing up after the Soviet Union 450 00:46:42,999 --> 00:46:45,720 who are trying to save some of the hero bus stops. 451 00:46:46,940 --> 00:46:49,900 Society started to think about how to preserve them. 452 00:46:50,360 --> 00:46:52,300 Is this something we really want to have here, 453 00:46:52,400 --> 00:46:54,320 or should we demolish and put the new ones? 454 00:47:02,720 --> 00:47:04,276 It is something to think about. 455 00:47:04,300 --> 00:47:08,800 Does all art created under an oppressive regime represent that regime? 456 00:47:10,800 --> 00:47:13,344 Because for me, the bus stops are more 457 00:47:13,368 --> 00:47:17,660 individual creativity being expressed in spite of state control. 458 00:47:19,120 --> 00:47:23,980 They stand at the side of the road kind of like small defiant acts of poetry. 459 00:47:27,140 --> 00:47:30,336 Still, for millions, the Soviet Union was a brutal occupation. 460 00:47:30,360 --> 00:47:34,540 And for some, these bus stops are a painful reminder of that era. 461 00:47:36,340 --> 00:47:41,560 So I also do understand if some want them removed or to reclaim them. 462 00:47:45,710 --> 00:47:49,970 You can see where there's like, up in here, this was obviously like a flower. 463 00:47:51,690 --> 00:47:54,466 God knows what else was going on, but... 464 00:47:54,490 --> 00:47:56,763 I mean, you can see on the outside of the bus stop, 465 00:47:56,823 --> 00:47:58,732 they haven't painted over it, 466 00:47:58,756 --> 00:48:04,110 so you can actually see how colourful and vibrant the mosaics were on the inside. 467 00:48:21,174 --> 00:48:25,100 One and a half years ago, there was a special decommunisation law 468 00:48:25,227 --> 00:48:30,756 This law says that all Soviet symbols will be demolished in a public space. 469 00:48:32,794 --> 00:48:36,586 Yeah, and they seem to do it even if it isn't blatantly Soviet, 470 00:48:36,640 --> 00:48:38,285 like there was no hammer and sickle. 471 00:48:38,310 --> 00:48:40,882 Yes, it's just about being from the Soviet period 472 00:48:40,907 --> 00:48:44,875 because this decommunisation law created a trend. 473 00:48:44,901 --> 00:48:50,180 The Soviet era is an absolutely a black period in our history. 474 00:48:55,363 --> 00:48:58,850 Mosaics disappeared everywhere. 475 00:48:59,300 --> 00:49:03,260 And we tried to gather just a photo more quickly, 476 00:49:03,840 --> 00:49:07,680 ask people and artists from everywhere 477 00:49:07,705 --> 00:49:12,045 to make a photo and send us just a photo for history. 478 00:49:33,030 --> 00:49:37,225 To fight against destruction of the buildings 479 00:49:37,250 --> 00:49:42,972 or any structures we love is really heartbreaking, 480 00:49:43,570 --> 00:49:48,468 because people's voices are heard so seldom. 481 00:50:00,753 --> 00:50:04,821 It's commercial pressure, and unfortunately, 482 00:50:04,846 --> 00:50:07,836 it also kills beauty, kills individuality. 483 00:50:08,472 --> 00:50:14,773 This standardisation is not ideological, as it was in the Soviet times, 484 00:50:14,940 --> 00:50:21,280 not a communist standardization, but a mass culture standardization. 485 00:50:21,320 --> 00:50:26,707 It produces ideals and foists them on us: 486 00:50:26,743 --> 00:50:30,823 "This is good. It can be sold." 487 00:50:30,883 --> 00:50:35,259 "You have to like this. That's why it's good." 488 00:50:45,284 --> 00:50:49,731 Everywhere, in every part of the world, you go and everything is the same. 489 00:50:52,070 --> 00:50:55,230 So these bus stops, when you travel, even if they're totally abandoned, 490 00:50:55,390 --> 00:50:59,450 out of nowhere, gives you some sort of feeling about shapes, 491 00:50:59,590 --> 00:51:03,590 material, what it was before, and that's part of history. 492 00:51:04,210 --> 00:51:09,026 You like it or not, it exists, and humans created it. 493 00:51:09,050 --> 00:51:12,290 That's why, as a young architect, I find a lot of inspiration in it. 494 00:51:20,420 --> 00:51:28,040 Outside, wind and weather have started to take their toll. 495 00:51:28,560 --> 00:51:32,500 Inside, you can also see that it is worn out. 496 00:51:38,170 --> 00:51:41,110 My wife. 497 00:51:42,390 --> 00:51:46,806 My wife also worked at the factory at the time. 498 00:51:46,830 --> 00:51:53,134 It's nice to see the bus stop now - 499 00:51:53,158 --> 00:51:59,906 - and remember when it was built. 500 00:52:00,710 --> 00:52:06,390 We created something of value that still stands today. 501 00:52:13,560 --> 00:52:17,260 Was that all? Are we done? 502 00:52:17,483 --> 00:52:19,437 Thanks. 503 00:52:19,461 --> 00:52:25,480 I don't think a little Georgian wine will hurt anyone. 504 00:52:27,160 --> 00:52:28,778 Here you go. 505 00:52:38,027 --> 00:52:43,867 Take something to eat. Come on, redfish. 506 00:52:45,820 --> 00:52:46,960 See you later. 507 00:52:49,233 --> 00:52:52,133 Bus stops will never stop! 508 00:52:53,160 --> 00:52:54,160 Good luck. 509 00:53:03,310 --> 00:53:04,730 The vehicle doesn't make it. 510 00:53:05,550 --> 00:53:08,150 And it turns out the road and the pass were actually closed. 511 00:53:08,630 --> 00:53:09,630 But we did get some help. 512 00:53:13,630 --> 00:53:18,810 Lovely guy with the snow plough got me the last 10 kilometres to the top of the hill. 513 00:53:19,830 --> 00:53:21,930 I'm very determined to see this bus stop. 514 00:53:23,990 --> 00:53:26,190 Got a little bit more sunlight before it goes down. 515 00:53:26,530 --> 00:53:31,886 The car is stuck at the bottom of the hill, but that will be tomorrow's news. 516 00:53:31,910 --> 00:53:36,310 I'm really worried this is just going to be completely buried under snow. 517 00:53:37,490 --> 00:53:38,890 It's supposed to be here somewhere. 518 00:53:44,713 --> 00:53:45,926 Okay, there it is. 519 00:53:47,706 --> 00:53:49,620 This is what it all boils down to. 520 00:53:53,850 --> 00:53:54,850 I like it. 521 00:53:58,049 --> 00:54:00,449 I like it, I might clean some snow off it. 522 00:54:14,636 --> 00:54:17,796 Love what Armin said about the road. 523 00:54:17,930 --> 00:54:18,930 It's like music. 524 00:54:19,990 --> 00:54:23,343 Not only are the loud and the big objects important, 525 00:54:24,196 --> 00:54:27,016 but also the pauses and the quiet. 526 00:54:28,363 --> 00:54:29,683 The small things. 527 00:55:29,886 --> 00:55:32,706 Bus stops will never stop! 45808

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