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CBR900RR
(harmonious vocalizing)
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CBR900RR
(melancholy vocalizing)
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CBR900RR
-[Narrator] West Papua.
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Nowhere else does the sea
pulse with so much life.
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(melancholy singing)
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00:02:03,206 --> 00:02:05,751
(lively music)
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(ship's horn blowing)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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00:03:01,181 --> 00:03:04,226
(lively music)
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00:03:04,267 --> 00:03:08,021
(singing in foreign language)
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00:03:23,787 --> 00:03:27,290
(children chattering)
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00:03:27,332 --> 00:03:31,336
(singing in foreign language)
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00:03:43,265 --> 00:03:46,435
(children chattering)
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00:03:47,728 --> 00:03:49,271
-[Narrator] In West Papua,
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a unique boat
visits many islands,
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00:03:52,315 --> 00:03:54,276
bringing something
wonderful to each.
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00:03:58,447 --> 00:04:02,325
(singing in foreign language)
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00:04:36,067 --> 00:04:38,361
The Kalabia is a
floating school,
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00:04:38,403 --> 00:04:41,406
where children of the
islands learn about the reefs
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00:04:41,448 --> 00:04:42,449
they all depend on.
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(gentle music)
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A 13-year-old boy,
Jawi, has been chosen
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to spend the summer
on this boat.
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00:04:57,088 --> 00:04:59,591
-[Jawi] Tomorrow we'll
start classes on the Kalabia.
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00:05:00,967 --> 00:05:02,469
But today we sing.
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-[Menas] Jawi, welcome back.
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00:05:12,437 --> 00:05:16,358
-[Jawi] My uncle Menas is
a teacher on the Kalabia.
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00:05:16,399 --> 00:05:20,445
-[Menas] Everywhere we go,
the children get so excited.
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00:05:20,487 --> 00:05:24,533
We use songs and games to teach
students about the oceans.
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00:05:34,334 --> 00:05:37,379
-[Jawi] My dad brings
the old days back to life.
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00:05:37,420 --> 00:05:38,296
He makes it fun.
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00:05:44,511 --> 00:05:47,472
When he runs out of
paint he uses toothpaste.
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-[Yesaya] Jawi's father
died when he was two,
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00:05:52,227 --> 00:05:53,395
so we took him in.
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00:05:54,813 --> 00:05:57,440
He's a foster child, but
I love him like my own.
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00:05:59,067 --> 00:06:00,819
I teach him about our heritage.
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(lively music)
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00:06:10,412 --> 00:06:13,206
The past seems strange
to kids like me.
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00:06:16,251 --> 00:06:19,379
But my dad says there's
wisdom in the old ways.
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00:06:31,182 --> 00:06:33,894
-[Yesaya] In our village
we all depend on each other.
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00:06:35,687 --> 00:06:36,897
We belong together.
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00:06:38,273 --> 00:06:39,649
Just like these villagers.
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(gentle music)
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-[Narrator] Jawi's uncle Menas
takes the Kalabia students
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00:06:53,038 --> 00:06:54,039
on field trips.
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He tries to teach these
children of the reef
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something new about
their own back yard.
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00:07:01,338 --> 00:07:03,840
(lively music)
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00:07:17,354 --> 00:07:21,566
There's a great diversity
of healthy corals here.
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00:07:21,608 --> 00:07:24,361
But Menas shows the
class that the big fish
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00:07:24,402 --> 00:07:27,364
they depend on for
food are almost gone.
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-[Menas] Corals eat
tiny plants and animals
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called plankton.
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00:07:43,254 --> 00:07:45,340
They're like an
upside-down octopus,
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00:07:45,382 --> 00:07:47,175
grabbing food as it passes by.
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-[Jawi] I love this game.
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It shows my friends
how corals eat.
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00:07:59,646 --> 00:08:02,649
They reach out like coral
polyps and get peanuts.
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00:08:03,566 --> 00:08:04,651
Plankton peanuts.
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00:08:05,735 --> 00:08:08,530
(lively music)
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00:08:27,424 --> 00:08:29,926
Tomorrow I'll be leaving
on a long journey.
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00:08:33,138 --> 00:08:36,349
But I want one last day
with my two best friends.
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00:08:41,396 --> 00:08:43,857
(gentle music)
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00:08:56,077 --> 00:08:59,372
We plan our day around
the tides and currents
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00:08:59,414 --> 00:09:01,624
because we can only get
through here at low tide,
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00:09:02,584 --> 00:09:03,501
like right now.
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00:09:07,672 --> 00:09:10,258
Sometimes this cave
fills up with water.
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I don't say this to anyone,
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00:09:29,569 --> 00:09:32,697
but maybe I'm just a little
bit afraid to leave home.
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I'm the oldest, and
kind of the leader.
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00:09:41,873 --> 00:09:44,584
The youngest is Jacob.
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He's not afraid of anything.
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And Gibson?
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00:09:49,714 --> 00:09:51,674
Everything we do
makes him laugh.
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00:09:54,594 --> 00:09:57,514
Clams and snails live
here in the mangroves.
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That's what we're after.
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00:10:01,601 --> 00:10:04,395
(lively music)
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00:10:12,320 --> 00:10:16,783
We roast the clams and
snails inside a bamboo stick.
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It's good.
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(speaking foreign language)
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(gentle music)
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-[Yesaya] Fishing
keeps us alive,
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00:11:08,251 --> 00:11:11,629
but the big fish are
disappearing fast.
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00:11:11,671 --> 00:11:15,633
Outsiders are sneaking in
and poaching our reefs.
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00:11:15,675 --> 00:11:17,218
And development is coming.
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00:11:18,845 --> 00:11:22,098
So Jawi needs to find new
ways to protect our reefs.
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00:11:28,688 --> 00:11:31,357
-[Jawi] I've never been
away from home before.
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00:11:33,526 --> 00:11:35,445
Two months is a long time.
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00:11:38,698 --> 00:11:41,492
(lively music)
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00:11:55,924 --> 00:11:57,634
-[Narrator] The
Kalabia will take Jawi
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00:11:57,675 --> 00:11:59,385
to nine islands in West Papua.
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00:12:02,889 --> 00:12:05,433
This island chain
forms a narrow funnel
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00:12:05,475 --> 00:12:07,810
between the Indian
and Pacific Oceans.
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00:12:11,189 --> 00:12:13,775
Tidal currents sweep
back and forth,
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bearing a rich source of food.
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-[Menas] In the old days,
a boy went on a long voyage
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00:12:24,786 --> 00:12:25,536
to become a man.
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00:12:27,455 --> 00:12:31,584
I hope this trip will teach
Jawi to think for himself.
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00:12:39,759 --> 00:12:42,720
Poachers once used the
Kalabia to fish illegally.
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00:12:44,138 --> 00:12:45,848
It was impounded and repainted,
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00:12:46,933 --> 00:12:48,559
and now helps young islanders
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00:12:48,601 --> 00:12:50,895
understand how to
care for their reefs.
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00:12:57,110 --> 00:12:59,904
-[Jawi] My dad says,
dive every reef,
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00:12:59,946 --> 00:13:01,823
because each one is different.
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00:13:12,041 --> 00:13:13,751
A seahorse.
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00:13:13,793 --> 00:13:14,752
My first.
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-[Menas] The last
time I dove this reef
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00:13:22,051 --> 00:13:23,052
there were more fish.
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00:13:27,682 --> 00:13:33,146
In all the oceans the number
of big fish has dropped 90%.
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00:13:33,521 --> 00:13:35,815
And it's almost as
bad for sea turtles.
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00:13:39,485 --> 00:13:41,237
So we were lucky to see one.
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(gentle music)
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-[Narrator] Like any village,
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a coral reef has its
fair share of characters.
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00:13:56,377 --> 00:14:00,006
This hawksbill turtle
is just passing through
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00:14:00,048 --> 00:14:03,009
on her way to the
island of Kalimantan,
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00:14:03,051 --> 00:14:04,385
a thousand miles away.
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00:14:10,933 --> 00:14:12,977
All her life she
remains a nomad.
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00:14:15,563 --> 00:14:18,399
A hungry nomad,
who avoids crowds.
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00:14:25,406 --> 00:14:28,284
Certain other characters,
like the lined sweetlips,
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00:14:29,911 --> 00:14:30,870
prefer company.
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00:14:32,497 --> 00:14:35,041
(gentle music)
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00:14:47,470 --> 00:14:49,639
Hawksbill turtles have no teeth,
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just a horny beak.
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00:14:54,894 --> 00:14:56,479
But they will eat
almost anything.
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00:14:57,688 --> 00:14:58,398
They never stop.
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00:15:12,245 --> 00:15:14,997
-[Menas] Sea turtles
are disappearing,
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00:15:15,039 --> 00:15:19,001
but I told Jawi there are
things we can do to save them.
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00:15:20,420 --> 00:15:22,505
-[Narrator] The
scientist on board,
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Ferdiel Ballamu, is an
expert on sea turtles.
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00:15:28,970 --> 00:15:32,432
Even though turtles
bury their eggs in sand,
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00:15:32,473 --> 00:15:34,976
wild animals dig
them up and eat them.
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00:15:36,769 --> 00:15:39,480
-[Ferdiel] Sometimes,
the only way
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00:15:39,522 --> 00:15:40,898
to protect the turtle eggs
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00:15:40,940 --> 00:15:43,401
is to move them to a safe place.
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00:15:45,528 --> 00:15:47,947
(lively music)
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00:15:51,576 --> 00:15:53,995
-[Narrator] The
next island, Arborek,
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is vulnerable to
storms and high tides.
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00:15:57,957 --> 00:16:02,170
Its highest point is only
six feet above sea level.
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00:16:02,211 --> 00:16:05,006
(lively music)
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00:16:31,908 --> 00:16:34,160
The people here
love their island,
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00:16:34,202 --> 00:16:35,995
and don't want to
live anywhere else.
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00:16:38,748 --> 00:16:41,167
Mangroves protect
beaches from storms.
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00:16:42,710 --> 00:16:44,670
That's why the Islanders
plant saplings.
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00:16:47,632 --> 00:16:50,218
But even mangroves
cannot protect Arborek
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00:16:50,259 --> 00:16:52,053
against rising sea levels.
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-[Jawi] The mangrove
roots clean the waters.
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00:16:57,517 --> 00:16:59,685
Young fish hide here
so they can grow.
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00:17:01,062 --> 00:17:03,105
The more mangroves,
the more fish.
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00:17:06,067 --> 00:17:08,778
(gentle music)
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00:17:12,198 --> 00:17:13,366
-[Narrator] The currents
that nourish the mangroves
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00:17:13,407 --> 00:17:15,701
also attract
extraordinary creatures
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00:17:15,743 --> 00:17:17,411
from many miles around.
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00:17:45,064 --> 00:17:47,525
Manta rays hang in the
currents like gliders
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00:17:47,567 --> 00:17:50,695
so the cleaner fish
can groom them.
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00:17:54,198 --> 00:17:56,242
The rays get rid of
parasites on their skin
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00:17:57,868 --> 00:18:00,079
and the fish get a tasty snack.
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00:18:20,099 --> 00:18:24,020
This ray has a big chunk
missing, from a shark bite.
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00:18:24,061 --> 00:18:26,147
She lets her groomers
clean the wound.
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00:18:29,609 --> 00:18:33,613
One helper even nibbles
on the manta's eyeball.
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00:18:44,123 --> 00:18:46,459
In West Papua the rhythm of life
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is driven by the currents.
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00:18:51,339 --> 00:18:53,758
In tight spots
between the islands
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the sea flows
fast, like a river.
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00:19:02,391 --> 00:19:03,225
And at full moon,
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00:19:04,769 --> 00:19:06,771
that's when the
currents run strongest.
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00:19:16,947 --> 00:19:21,911
These strong currents turn the
seawater into plankton soup.
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00:19:22,787 --> 00:19:23,663
A real feast for the mantas.
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00:19:42,056 --> 00:19:45,893
Here, at the convergence
of two great oceans,
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00:19:45,935 --> 00:19:49,730
schools of anchovies grow in
size when it's time to spawn.
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00:19:51,691 --> 00:19:54,068
Attracting hungry predators.
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00:19:55,277 --> 00:19:58,072
(gentle music)
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00:20:28,769 --> 00:20:31,313
(lively music)
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00:21:36,378 --> 00:21:40,424
Scientists are mapping the many
deep canyons of West Papua,
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00:21:40,466 --> 00:21:44,136
where upwelling currents carry
vast quantities of plankton.
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00:21:46,222 --> 00:21:47,264
All these nutrients
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00:21:47,306 --> 00:21:51,185
sustain an amazing
diversity of sea life.
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00:21:51,227 --> 00:21:54,522
Over 500 different
kinds of corals
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and nearly 2,000
species of fish.
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00:21:58,359 --> 00:22:00,069
More than anywhere
else on earth.
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(gentle music)
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00:22:15,209 --> 00:22:17,920
-[Jawi] I'm seeing some
animals I've never seen before.
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00:22:20,548 --> 00:22:21,966
Like an orangutan crab.
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00:22:23,384 --> 00:22:24,468
It makes me laugh.
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00:22:31,559 --> 00:22:33,227
The seahorse is tiny.
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There's a second seahorse,
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00:22:36,522 --> 00:22:37,898
which I almost didn't spot.
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00:22:49,535 --> 00:22:51,036
Not all sharks are dangerous.
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00:22:52,371 --> 00:22:54,498
The wobbegong shark
just wants to hide.
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00:22:56,375 --> 00:22:59,712
This one's pregnant, and
she is as gentle as a puppy.
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00:23:07,428 --> 00:23:09,972
-[Narrator] The Kalabia
sets course for Wermon,
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00:23:10,014 --> 00:23:11,515
a nesting ground
for sea turtles.
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00:23:16,312 --> 00:23:18,355
-[Menas] I showed
Jawi one turtle,
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00:23:18,397 --> 00:23:21,358
but now he'll see some big ones.
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00:23:21,400 --> 00:23:22,943
20 times bigger.
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00:23:27,489 --> 00:23:30,492
-[Narrator] Because of his
success saving sea turtles,
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00:23:30,534 --> 00:23:33,704
Ferdiel has been invited to
Wermon to share his know-how.
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00:23:35,247 --> 00:23:37,708
-[Ferdiel] The turtles
that nest here are huge.
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00:23:39,001 --> 00:23:41,503
So it takes a large
scale to weigh them.
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00:23:41,545 --> 00:23:44,590
And it takes a large
man to test the scale.
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(gentle music)
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-[Narrator] Scientists
call this beach
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00:24:01,231 --> 00:24:04,109
the last stand of the
Pacific leatherback turtle.
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00:24:16,789 --> 00:24:20,084
This mother swam all the
way from North America,
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00:24:20,125 --> 00:24:23,712
6,000 miles, to the
beach where she was born.
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00:24:27,007 --> 00:24:29,218
She will not nest anywhere else.
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00:24:33,263 --> 00:24:35,307
-[Ferdiel] Red lights
don't disturb her.
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00:24:36,850 --> 00:24:38,185
She can't see red.
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00:24:40,521 --> 00:24:43,983
In the past four years
she has really grown,
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00:24:44,024 --> 00:24:46,151
and now weighs 500 pounds.
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00:24:52,658 --> 00:24:55,661
The mother digs a
hole two feet deep,
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00:24:55,703 --> 00:24:58,247
and lays about a hundred eggs.
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00:25:10,509 --> 00:25:14,388
The newborns can walk
as soon as they hatch.
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00:25:15,389 --> 00:25:17,933
(gentle music)
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00:25:19,727 --> 00:25:22,813
They somehow imprint
on this exact beach,
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00:25:24,398 --> 00:25:26,483
like setting their internal GPS.
217
00:25:29,862 --> 00:25:32,489
Then they begin a
dangerous journey.
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00:25:34,742 --> 00:25:37,703
Only one in 10
makes it to the sea.
219
00:25:40,664 --> 00:25:43,792
-[Jawi] Birds and lizards
eat almost every baby turtle.
220
00:25:48,297 --> 00:25:50,674
But sometimes you get lucky.
221
00:26:00,726 --> 00:26:01,769
-[Ferdiel] Despite
their struggles,
222
00:26:01,810 --> 00:26:03,645
sea turtles still have a chance.
223
00:26:04,980 --> 00:26:08,776
New fishing equipment,
like the circle hook,
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00:26:08,817 --> 00:26:11,028
is saving them by the thousands.
225
00:26:21,538 --> 00:26:24,208
-[Narrator] The Kalabia
moves to the island of Misool.
226
00:26:26,460 --> 00:26:29,004
Years ago, when Andy
and Merit Miners
227
00:26:29,046 --> 00:26:31,090
came here for the first time,
228
00:26:31,131 --> 00:26:33,509
they saw big reefs all around.
229
00:26:36,261 --> 00:26:37,554
But where were the fish?
230
00:26:41,308 --> 00:26:43,060
The villagers were overfishing,
231
00:26:44,770 --> 00:26:47,689
and the outsiders were getting
their catch the easy way.
232
00:26:53,237 --> 00:26:53,946
With dynamite.
233
00:26:56,824 --> 00:26:58,659
To bring the big fish back,
234
00:26:58,700 --> 00:27:01,328
Andy and Merit made the
fisherman an offer of help.
235
00:27:02,830 --> 00:27:04,873
Get the outsiders
to stop dynamiting.
236
00:27:06,500 --> 00:27:08,043
Limit your fishing.
237
00:27:08,085 --> 00:27:11,338
And establish a permanent
marine protected area.
238
00:27:13,173 --> 00:27:15,717
(gentle music)
239
00:27:17,803 --> 00:27:20,097
If you work with us,
your reefs will thrive.
240
00:27:21,306 --> 00:27:22,808
And so will your families.
241
00:27:28,272 --> 00:27:31,316
The villagers
agreed, and steadily,
242
00:27:31,358 --> 00:27:34,987
over the next five years,
the big fish came back.
243
00:27:37,239 --> 00:27:39,700
(lively music)
244
00:27:59,845 --> 00:28:01,972
-[Jawi] Here there
are plenty of big fish.
245
00:28:04,600 --> 00:28:07,644
I saw that this no-take
zone was working so well
246
00:28:07,686 --> 00:28:08,812
because they patrol it.
247
00:28:23,076 --> 00:28:26,121
-[Narrator] Here, the fishermen
who once broke the rules
248
00:28:26,163 --> 00:28:28,290
now enforce them
in patrol boats.
249
00:28:29,791 --> 00:28:31,460
They put a stop to
illegal fishing.
250
00:28:32,794 --> 00:28:34,504
And on the very spot
that the poachers
251
00:28:34,546 --> 00:28:35,797
once pitched their camp,
252
00:28:36,757 --> 00:28:38,759
Andy and Merit
build their dream.
253
00:28:40,886 --> 00:28:44,640
A resort to sustain both
the reefs and the islanders.
254
00:28:47,392 --> 00:28:49,519
The villagers now
make a better living
255
00:28:49,561 --> 00:28:50,979
working with tourists
who come here
256
00:28:51,021 --> 00:28:53,273
to dive these revitalized reefs.
257
00:28:54,733 --> 00:28:57,527
(gentle music)
258
00:29:05,535 --> 00:29:07,829
-[Jawi] I saw how a marine
protected area works,
259
00:29:07,871 --> 00:29:08,997
and how to guard it.
260
00:29:14,294 --> 00:29:16,922
I understood why the big
fish were disappearing
261
00:29:17,881 --> 00:29:18,715
from our reef at home.
262
00:29:20,300 --> 00:29:22,594
And I finally knew what
we could do about it.
263
00:29:27,891 --> 00:29:30,644
My dad says there's
wisdom in the old ways.
264
00:29:34,273 --> 00:29:35,983
And a wise fisherman
265
00:29:36,024 --> 00:29:38,777
always leaves some
fish for another day.
266
00:29:38,819 --> 00:29:41,363
That's the old way.
267
00:29:42,781 --> 00:29:45,242
(lively music)
268
00:30:01,800 --> 00:30:03,218
The stone fish.
269
00:30:03,260 --> 00:30:05,012
You don't want to
touch one of those.
270
00:30:07,389 --> 00:30:08,807
His venom can kill you.
271
00:30:10,851 --> 00:30:14,021
(stone fish grunting)
272
00:30:15,647 --> 00:30:19,776
I learned this: protect the
reef and it'll sing to you.
273
00:30:19,818 --> 00:30:22,362
(woman singing)
274
00:30:25,032 --> 00:30:27,951
(giant clam grunting)
275
00:30:29,494 --> 00:30:31,955
(fish booming)
276
00:30:36,668 --> 00:30:39,254
(water bubbling)
277
00:30:41,340 --> 00:30:44,009
(fish popping)
278
00:30:44,051 --> 00:30:47,346
(mollusc crooning)
279
00:30:47,387 --> 00:30:50,182
(eels harmonizing)
280
00:30:54,644 --> 00:30:57,064
(fish beeping)
281
00:30:58,648 --> 00:31:00,942
-[Narrator] This colorful
chorus has shown Jawi
282
00:31:00,984 --> 00:31:03,236
how a well-managed
reef can thrive.
283
00:31:12,954 --> 00:31:15,749
(gentle music)
284
00:31:23,465 --> 00:31:25,509
-[Jawi] Just before
we left Misool,
285
00:31:25,550 --> 00:31:27,344
I got a letter from home.
286
00:31:29,638 --> 00:31:32,641
-[Yesaya] Learn all you
can, never hold back.
287
00:31:32,682 --> 00:31:34,017
We all miss you.
288
00:31:34,976 --> 00:31:36,311
Love, your father.
289
00:31:41,733 --> 00:31:44,444
-[Narrator] The final stop
will be Cenderawasih Bay,
290
00:31:46,029 --> 00:31:47,572
where the whale sharks gather.
291
00:31:57,874 --> 00:32:01,586
In all the oceans, these
are the biggest sharks.
292
00:32:01,628 --> 00:32:03,171
Well over 40 feet long.
293
00:32:06,007 --> 00:32:08,969
There are even
reports of 60-footers.
294
00:32:16,893 --> 00:32:18,103
-[Jawi] Here I'll
have the chance
295
00:32:18,145 --> 00:32:19,229
to dive with whale sharks.
296
00:32:22,566 --> 00:32:23,525
I've never seen one.
297
00:32:27,070 --> 00:32:28,238
I think they must be scary.
298
00:32:41,042 --> 00:32:45,464
The harder I try not to
think about whale sharks,
299
00:32:45,505 --> 00:32:48,467
the more I think
about whale sharks.
300
00:32:54,097 --> 00:32:57,851
Uncle Menas says whale
sharks won't hurt me.
301
00:32:59,102 --> 00:33:03,940
I don't know.
302
00:33:13,200 --> 00:33:15,577
-[Narrator] The commercial
fishermen feed the whale sharks
303
00:33:15,619 --> 00:33:18,622
some of their catch to
keep them hanging around.
304
00:33:20,207 --> 00:33:21,541
They're considered good luck.
305
00:33:36,014 --> 00:33:38,600
-[Jawi] I wonder if they
could swallow me by mistake.
306
00:34:07,587 --> 00:34:10,674
(suspenseful music)
307
00:34:29,317 --> 00:34:32,028
(lively music)
308
00:34:44,916 --> 00:34:47,460
(gentle music)
309
00:36:02,160 --> 00:36:06,164
Now I wonder why I was ever
afraid of whale sharks.
310
00:36:12,962 --> 00:36:14,673
-[Narrator] Jawi's
journey is nearly over.
311
00:36:15,924 --> 00:36:18,176
But the Kalabia's
work continues.
312
00:36:18,218 --> 00:36:20,136
Inspiring a
generation of children
313
00:36:20,178 --> 00:36:22,222
to care for the ocean.
314
00:36:24,099 --> 00:36:26,518
(gentle music)
315
00:37:25,618 --> 00:37:28,204
In just two months Jawi has seen
316
00:37:28,246 --> 00:37:31,249
how a revitalized
reef sustains itself.
317
00:37:32,584 --> 00:37:35,628
And he has learned that the
more you understand a reef
318
00:37:37,005 --> 00:37:38,465
the better you can protect it.
319
00:37:48,475 --> 00:37:51,436
-[Yesaya] We have concerns,
but scientists tell us
320
00:37:51,478 --> 00:37:55,231
there's no other place like
this anywhere on earth.
321
00:37:57,275 --> 00:38:00,403
I'm thankful that the
future of our islands
322
00:38:00,445 --> 00:38:02,405
belongs to the
children of the reef.
323
00:38:10,371 --> 00:38:12,624
-[Jawi] pretty soon
it will be up to me,
324
00:38:13,458 --> 00:38:15,460
and Gibson, and Jacob.
325
00:38:16,461 --> 00:38:19,464
And that's why my dad
sent me on this journey.
326
00:38:21,591 --> 00:38:24,302
(lively music)
327
00:38:53,373 --> 00:38:57,669
(speaking foreign language)
328
00:38:57,710 --> 00:39:00,505
(lively music)
24193
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