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(upbeat music)
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Series four of My Greek Odyssey sees us traveling
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through the Southern islands of the Dodecanese
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from Kos, to Symi, and Rhodes,
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all the way down to Kastellorizo.
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It's a region of Greece with significant influence
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from Asia Minor and landscapes quite unlike
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other parts of the Mediterranean.
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The history is as dramatic as the scenery,
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and of course the cuisine is unforgettable.
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There's the cliched beaches and wonderful people,
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plus unique cultural elements
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that give each destination its own personality.
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In the last episode, I started my time on Karpathos.
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I'd never been to this huge island,
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so naturally, I was keen to see as much as I could.
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This episode picks up where I left off
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with a couple more days to explore the place
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before heading south
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to another island I'd never visited; Kasos.
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(calm music)
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Sunrise is one of my favorite times the day.
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In Greece, I'm usually the only one up and about,
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so I get the beaches to myself.
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It's also the time of day I like to get some exercise done,
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and in this case, I swapped the morning run
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and body weights for a paddle.
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I love my kayak, and I love kayaking in Greece,
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because this is the way, it's like walking.
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Walking is really how you see a town or a city.
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Kayaking is how you see the coast.
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This is so much fun and so relaxing,
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and in the morning like this,
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I don't think there's anything better.
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Problem is you're on your own,
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and I don't have a double one of these
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so I can put Helen on the back.
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(calm music)
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Just look at this.
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It's fantastic.
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(calm music)
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The landscape takes on a different personality
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when you view it under your own steam.
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You see more detail in the world around you.
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(calm music)
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Now we're so lucky.
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I think our saint, Zoe, is with us because
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Karpathos is known for its rugged weather,
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and it's always pretty angry around here, but today,
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our beautiful saint has given us
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the best possible weather you could have.
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Whether it's her or nature, or whatever it is,
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Buddha, you know, thanks very much.
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We really appreciate it.
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I might get some mindfulness in today
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if I just stop talking, which is really hard for me.
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(soft paddling)
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Oh man, it's beautiful.
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We're coming in to Kira Panaya, magnificent beach,
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couple of taverns, but you know what?
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You don't need a (mumbles) to enjoy this.
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Hire one of these for five euros
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and you'll have a great time.
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It's the simple pleasures I get the most joy from,
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like our time in this part of Karpathos.
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The night before we had a barbecue dinner
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and enjoyed some fireworks, then relocated further north.
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But Helen wanted to come back and spend the day swimming
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and having lunch at the tavern.
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I don't blame her either,
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it's the perfect spot to while away the hours.
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(waves rippling)
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Everyone was up early, well early for Greece,
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choosing their patch of sand on the beach
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and getting organized for a massive day
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of doing not much at all.
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You come here to relax, eat,
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swim, relax, and eat some more.
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It's a basic routine.
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For me it was a chance to paddle around the headland
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and see a little bit more of the island
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before our planned departure for Kasos.
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The hours pass slowly in places like this.
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It's nice to wind down a little and not have the feeling
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that you need to get something done or be somewhere else.
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Yeah, it's a cliched thing to do in Greece,
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but it's relaxation at its best.
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(calm music)
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This part of Karpathos
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is how I see the best of the Greek Islands.
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There's a beautiful aqua blue sea
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with beaches where you find
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just a handful of return visitors
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rather than crowds of tourists.
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The villages haven't seen mass tourism,
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so you won't find gimmicky souvenir shops.
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There are rugged natural, landscapes
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that seem like they've only recently been pioneered,
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and taverns that serve local produce
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with grandma in the kitchen cooking.
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It's about as authentic as you get.
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Orthos Village, perched in the mountains
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is a great example of the Greece of old.
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You'd be lucky to find someone that speaks English
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and there's nothing in the way of
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infrastructure for holiday makers.
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The people that live here have done so for generations
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and little will likely change
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in the next 50 years or more.
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From there in the distance, you can see the Island of Kasos,
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which is our next port of call.
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Shrouded in cloud, there was an air of mystery about it.
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But before making our way across,
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we had to stop over at the main harbor of Karpathos
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at the town of Pigadia.
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I just did not realize how long and big Karpathos is.
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It's about 10 to seven and we've been filming all day
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and I'm buggered.
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I'm gonna go to bed straight after this.
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We're in the town of Pigadia
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which is the capital of Karpathos,
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and I'd say the majority
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of the population in Karpathos live here,
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about 7,000 of them.
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But it's from here that the boats travel in the morning
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to go to the beaches for the tourists
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and I'd say there's a number of tourists here at the moment.
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It livens up at night.
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You'll find on most islands that the mornings start late
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and the port areas are typically quiet.
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Sometimes there's a bit of activity around midday,
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but generally most people are at the beach.
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Mid-afternoon the activity increases.
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People start to wander into the cafes and taverns
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for a coffee or some mezze and ouzo.
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As the shadows begin to grow
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and the temperature cools down a little, the energy builds.
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The bars and restaurants become more lively
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and the whole place takes on a very different personality.
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This is the time of day when I start to hit the wall,
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the shoot days are long
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and despite the crew doing most of the work, I'm exhausted.
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So while the youngsters head off
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for a bit of Maneas-free time, I'm off to bed.
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(calm music)
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The ferries that service the Greek Islands are massive.
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Apart from taking people and their vehicles around,
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they also bring a lot of supplies.
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Speaking of massive,
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despite being a huge land mass and close to Rhodes,
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Karpathos is considered quite remote.
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Daily access is limited to a few ferries
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and an occasional flight.
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Plus, not having the mass-tourist development
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of its neighbor, there's a sense of isolation about it.
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This detachment from the main stream means Karpathos
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doesn't have the same forces of change imposed upon it,
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which makes it a few steps back towards the old Greece,
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not the homogenized tourist meccas you encounter elsewhere.
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Our next stop was even more isolated.
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Kasos is only 60 miles from Crete,
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but it might as well be a thousand miles from anywhere,
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lost in the middle of the Mediterranean.
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Having never been there, I had the usual excitement I get
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whenever setting foot on a new island.
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I might've done plenty of research about it,
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as I do wherever we go,
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but there's always surprises and special experiences
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that no book or website can capture.
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For and island where much of its population
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has migrated to the US, particularly New York,
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Kasos is almost unheard of.
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Even many Greeks don't know about it.
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(calm music)
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When arriving in the main port town of Kasos,
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the first thing you'll see
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is this stony 1824 sign and the Greek flag,
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which is very, very significant to the Kasiots.
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At one stage, they had a population of 12,000 people.
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They had an amazing fleet of ships,
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a fleet of ships that they lent to the Greek Revolution.
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As a result, the Ottoman Empire sought retribution.
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They razed the towns to the ground.
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They burned everything, killed almost everybody.
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Those that survived fled to Egypt,
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much like the Island of Psara fleeing to Syros.
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Today there's only about 800 people left,
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and I'm told they're really friendly
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and it's a wonderful place,
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so I'm looking forward to exploring Kasos.
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Kasos is a long way from the mainland,
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and the only way you'll find out about it
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is via a chance encounter
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with someone that might've visited,
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and once you've seen how little there is
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in the way of tourist development,
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you'll understand when I say
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the odds of that are pretty slim.
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Initially I was underwhelmed
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by the lack of activity in the port town.
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Little was I to know, Kasos was all about the people,
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particularly the women.
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The first sign of life I came across
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was a man working while two women supervised.
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This is just so unlike normal Greeks,
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it's a theme I continuously came across while here.
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To help me understand why this was the case,
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I met with Jenny, a 15 year resident of the island.
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Born in Australia, repatriating the island of her parents.
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When I was a little girl,
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my mum and dad brought me to Greece
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and brought me to Kasos,
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and I said to them, well, I'd like to live here.
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I didn't wanna go back to Australia.
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So one fine morning, when I decided to come to Greece,
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I announced that I'm definitely going to Greece for good.
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They were a little bit worried,
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you know, why, at the age of 30,
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but I love Kasos so much.
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As I was growing up,
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mum and dad were actually talking about
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Kasos, Kasos, Kasos, and every day
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our conversations were about Kasos,
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the Paniyiria, the people, the beach.
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Yeah. So you've been here over a decade now,
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and what keeps you here?
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Why do you wanna stay in this tiny little island
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where everybody knows you, knows what's going on.
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There's literally, I don't know, is there freedom?
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I don't know.
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What keeps you here.
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The freedom of being able
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to come to the beach whenever you like,
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and an upbringing of not being scared for my children.
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Right. So you brought your two children up here.
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Yes.
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And you wanna keep them here
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and you want to stay here?
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I want to keep them here.
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Of course, when they're 18,
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they'll have to go and study elsewhere
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because unfortunately the island doesn't have much to offer.
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And with the conversations that I have with my boys,
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especially my oldest,
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I want him to have, well, it's up to him,
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if he'll have an education where he will
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continue to live here on the island.
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We're lacking a lot of things on the island.
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And I would prefer him,
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like I would say to maybe a microbiologist,
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maybe an X-ray operator.
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So hopefully when he grows up, he would like to stay here.
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I was quickly discovering the island's ability
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to draw people from across the entire social spectrum
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from young parents, raising families
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away from the complexity of city life
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to retired prima ballerinas,
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looking for solitude and a way of giving back.
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(cheerful classical music)
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The last thing I expected to come across on Kasos
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was a former world-class ballet dancer.
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In her prime, Eliza was at the pinnacle of her profession,
263
00:12:05,640 --> 00:12:07,277
famous in the dancing scene.
264
00:12:07,277 --> 00:12:10,360
It's hard to imagine going from being in the limelight
265
00:12:10,360 --> 00:12:12,473
to retiring to such a sleepy island.
266
00:12:14,140 --> 00:12:16,860
I had a vision when I was much younger
267
00:12:16,860 --> 00:12:19,410
to go to a place that's remote,
268
00:12:19,410 --> 00:12:22,870
tiny and where children don't have the opportunity
269
00:12:22,870 --> 00:12:25,490
to actually learn classical art like ballet
270
00:12:26,520 --> 00:12:29,980
and the vision came true, which just happened.
271
00:12:29,980 --> 00:12:32,070
So this is like a give back, is it?
272
00:12:32,070 --> 00:12:34,730
Is sort of, because I've done a lot of my life.
273
00:12:34,730 --> 00:12:37,210
I danced with classical ballet companies
274
00:12:37,210 --> 00:12:39,174
all over the world globally,
275
00:12:39,174 --> 00:12:42,770
and at some stage when you've done it all
276
00:12:42,770 --> 00:12:45,020
you think now I have to give back.
277
00:12:45,020 --> 00:12:47,400
Yeah. Well, I mean, you've been all over the world,
278
00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:51,450
professional dancer, you've been in the bright lights.
279
00:12:51,450 --> 00:12:53,260
You've gone from one extreme
280
00:12:53,260 --> 00:12:57,000
to an absolute, other extreme.
281
00:12:57,000 --> 00:12:58,103
How's it been?
282
00:13:01,120 --> 00:13:04,430
Difficult, but also exciting.
283
00:13:04,430 --> 00:13:05,263
Rewarding?
284
00:13:05,263 --> 00:13:08,620
Of course. Sometimes extremely rewarding.
285
00:13:08,620 --> 00:13:10,140
Sometimes very depressing.
286
00:13:10,140 --> 00:13:12,580
Of course, there's always ups and downs in life.
287
00:13:12,580 --> 00:13:14,260
There are no ups without downs.
288
00:13:14,260 --> 00:13:15,093
Of course. In life.
289
00:13:15,093 --> 00:13:16,310
I can see your students in there
290
00:13:16,310 --> 00:13:18,280
practicing away, having a good time.
291
00:13:18,280 --> 00:13:19,430
I ground them.
292
00:13:19,430 --> 00:13:23,220
Yes. I mean, bringing joy to others that you do,
293
00:13:23,220 --> 00:13:26,040
to people that are normally not privileged with that,
294
00:13:26,040 --> 00:13:26,873
it's a wonderful thing.
295
00:13:26,873 --> 00:13:28,730
You know, that they didn't know
296
00:13:28,730 --> 00:13:30,540
what classical ballet was all about
297
00:13:30,540 --> 00:13:31,610
when I came to the island,
298
00:13:31,610 --> 00:13:34,090
they hadn't heard classical music.
299
00:13:34,090 --> 00:13:36,150
This was very difficult for me to start
300
00:13:36,150 --> 00:13:38,017
passing all this over to them.
301
00:13:38,017 --> 00:13:42,180
They have changed so much in the past five years.
302
00:13:42,180 --> 00:13:45,880
You're seeing children that you would see in London,
303
00:13:45,880 --> 00:13:48,610
coming out of a ballet class,
304
00:13:48,610 --> 00:13:53,550
and if you'd seen them five years ago, they were villagers,
305
00:13:53,550 --> 00:13:58,430
islanders that have no idea what all this is all about.
306
00:13:58,430 --> 00:13:59,263
Is there a chance
307
00:13:59,263 --> 00:14:00,330
of a prima ballerina coming out of here?
308
00:14:00,330 --> 00:14:03,890
There was, actually, I did have a wonderful dancer.
309
00:14:03,890 --> 00:14:08,890
All my friends in London and Australia and France
310
00:14:08,929 --> 00:14:13,160
ballet teachers would say, oh, she's fantastic,
311
00:14:13,160 --> 00:14:14,275
what have you done?
312
00:14:14,275 --> 00:14:15,108
Well, what happened?
313
00:14:15,108 --> 00:14:18,090
She had to stop because she has to study now.
314
00:14:18,090 --> 00:14:22,580
She's 11 going on 12, and here on the island
315
00:14:22,580 --> 00:14:23,730
because they don't know
316
00:14:24,993 --> 00:14:29,550
what it's like in Athens or any big capital,
317
00:14:32,400 --> 00:14:35,120
they think that after 11 years old,
318
00:14:35,120 --> 00:14:37,640
all you have to do is school and study.
319
00:14:37,640 --> 00:14:38,993
You can't do anything.
320
00:14:38,993 --> 00:14:39,965
So.
321
00:14:39,965 --> 00:14:42,450
(cheerful classical music)
322
00:14:42,450 --> 00:14:44,270
What an amazing woman
323
00:14:44,270 --> 00:14:46,470
to start this dance school from nothing
324
00:14:46,470 --> 00:14:48,040
is courageous enough,
325
00:14:48,040 --> 00:14:51,010
but in a remote island with a tiny population
326
00:14:51,010 --> 00:14:53,520
facing language and cultural barriers
327
00:14:53,520 --> 00:14:54,410
and with an art form
328
00:14:54,410 --> 00:14:56,970
that's almost alien to these people.
329
00:14:56,970 --> 00:14:58,590
It's easy now to understand
330
00:14:58,590 --> 00:15:01,000
how this type of determination and attitude
331
00:15:01,000 --> 00:15:02,723
led her to the top of the world in ballet.
332
00:15:02,723 --> 00:15:07,056
(dramatic classical music flourish)
333
00:15:18,110 --> 00:15:20,530
In series three I visited the Patmos mills
334
00:15:20,530 --> 00:15:22,010
to see how they worked.
335
00:15:22,010 --> 00:15:23,100
Well, we took a few kilos
336
00:15:23,100 --> 00:15:24,920
of that freshly ground flour for the boat
337
00:15:24,920 --> 00:15:26,853
waiting for the right time and recipe,
338
00:15:26,853 --> 00:15:28,300
and today was the day.
339
00:15:28,300 --> 00:15:30,114
It's perfect.
340
00:15:30,114 --> 00:15:32,243
I'm gonna thank you as a miller.
341
00:15:33,119 --> 00:15:36,369
(mill wheel squeaking)
342
00:15:39,538 --> 00:15:40,800
And this is the flour can I have a look?
343
00:15:40,800 --> 00:15:42,174
Yes. Whoops. Smell it?
344
00:15:42,174 --> 00:15:45,860
Look at that, look at the flour!
345
00:15:45,860 --> 00:15:46,693
Strong flour.
346
00:15:46,693 --> 00:15:50,690
Hang on a second, look at this, look at this.
347
00:15:51,910 --> 00:15:53,720
Oh, I don't think I've smelled flour like that
348
00:15:53,720 --> 00:15:56,633
since I was a little boy, and that was a long time ago.
349
00:15:57,810 --> 00:15:58,920
Wow.
350
00:15:58,920 --> 00:16:02,480
So we've got this wonderful flour from Patmos.
351
00:16:02,480 --> 00:16:04,230
We have to use it, see what it's like
352
00:16:04,230 --> 00:16:07,330
using the original organic gear, you know?
353
00:16:07,330 --> 00:16:08,490
We've got, (speaks foreign language),
354
00:16:09,600 --> 00:16:10,470
olives from Leros,
355
00:16:10,470 --> 00:16:11,303
and we've got the buffalo cheese from Lipsi.
356
00:16:11,303 --> 00:16:12,136
Lipsi.
357
00:16:13,140 --> 00:16:15,003
So what are we gonna make today, Kyriakos?
358
00:16:15,003 --> 00:16:18,850
We will be making an olive bread with olives and cheese,
359
00:16:18,850 --> 00:16:22,770
So we're gonna do a bread that's made from olive oil,
360
00:16:22,770 --> 00:16:24,540
with olives and cheese in it.
361
00:16:24,540 --> 00:16:25,810
Man, I'm looking forward to it.
362
00:16:25,810 --> 00:16:27,032
What do we do, what are we gonna do?
363
00:16:27,032 --> 00:16:28,780
One kilo of flour.
364
00:16:28,780 --> 00:16:31,020
One kilo of flour goes in there.
365
00:16:31,020 --> 00:16:33,000
It looks like there's some water, some olive oil,
366
00:16:33,000 --> 00:16:35,553
500 mils of water?
367
00:16:35,553 --> 00:16:36,720
(speaks foreign language)
368
00:16:36,720 --> 00:16:39,560
200 mils of olive oil, one spoon of sugar,
369
00:16:39,560 --> 00:16:41,050
Helen's watching, and she's a bit concerned
370
00:16:41,050 --> 00:16:41,910
that we're using sugar,
371
00:16:41,910 --> 00:16:43,120
but Helen's not gonna eat bread,
372
00:16:43,120 --> 00:16:44,500
because she's gluten free, so it doesn't matter.
373
00:16:44,500 --> 00:16:45,333
What did we just put in there?
374
00:16:45,333 --> 00:16:46,510
We put yeast right?
375
00:16:46,510 --> 00:16:48,170
Yeast, 20 grams.
376
00:16:48,170 --> 00:16:53,170
20 grams of yeast and some salt, a tablespoon of salt.
377
00:16:53,355 --> 00:16:54,188
That's it?
378
00:16:54,188 --> 00:16:55,196
And then we mix it all together.
379
00:16:55,196 --> 00:16:56,050
It's easy. This is the first bit,
380
00:16:56,050 --> 00:16:59,303
and we just use the Mixmaster thing that kneads it.
381
00:17:00,570 --> 00:17:01,519
Come down and have a look at this,
382
00:17:01,519 --> 00:17:02,920
this is unbelievable, have a look at that.
383
00:17:02,920 --> 00:17:04,573
Can we stop it for a moment?
384
00:17:04,573 --> 00:17:05,540
Yes, of course.
385
00:17:05,540 --> 00:17:06,850
It's amazing. Have a look in there.
386
00:17:06,850 --> 00:17:07,927
Have a look in there,
387
00:17:07,927 --> 00:17:09,804
have a look at the gear in there, can you see that?
388
00:17:09,804 --> 00:17:11,110
Can you see? Can you see that?
389
00:17:11,110 --> 00:17:12,380
It's awesome, man.
390
00:17:12,380 --> 00:17:15,013
Okay. All right, (speaks foreign language), turn it back on.
391
00:17:15,880 --> 00:17:17,495
What are you doing now, Kyriakos?
392
00:17:17,495 --> 00:17:20,090
We are going to kneed it and then we will let it rise.
393
00:17:20,090 --> 00:17:23,188
Okay. So we're gonna knead this and once it's kneaded,
394
00:17:23,188 --> 00:17:25,515
we're gonna leave it so it rises.
395
00:17:25,515 --> 00:17:27,690
Wow. This is awesome, I love it.
396
00:17:27,690 --> 00:17:28,523
Bread so easy to make.
397
00:17:28,523 --> 00:17:29,356
(speaks foreign language)
398
00:17:29,356 --> 00:17:30,260
Easy, right?Yes, of course.
399
00:17:30,260 --> 00:17:31,723
But it has to rise two times.
400
00:17:31,723 --> 00:17:34,299
How long does it take to raise?
401
00:17:34,299 --> 00:17:36,263
I believe it will take 20 minutes
402
00:17:36,263 --> 00:17:37,442
to rise the first time.
403
00:17:37,442 --> 00:17:38,434
20 minutes.
404
00:17:38,434 --> 00:17:41,360
(mixer motor whirring)
405
00:17:41,360 --> 00:17:43,860
It was almost as noisy as a construction site.
406
00:17:43,860 --> 00:17:45,487
Like a mini cement mixer.
407
00:17:45,487 --> 00:17:48,050
(mixer motor whirring)
408
00:17:48,050 --> 00:17:49,888
I have to admit, I found it mesmerizing
409
00:17:49,888 --> 00:17:52,539
watching the machine while it kneaded the dough.
410
00:17:52,539 --> 00:17:55,210
(mixer motor whirring)
411
00:17:55,210 --> 00:17:56,540
It looks like it's ready
412
00:17:56,540 --> 00:17:58,630
when it's starting to fight with you,
413
00:17:58,630 --> 00:17:59,570
and it doesn't want to mix any more,
414
00:17:59,570 --> 00:18:00,733
just going all over the place.
415
00:18:00,733 --> 00:18:01,830
When it's going all over the place,
416
00:18:01,830 --> 00:18:05,060
then after about 10 minutes of kneading, it's ready to go.
417
00:18:05,060 --> 00:18:06,240
So what are we gonna do now, Kyriakos?
418
00:18:06,240 --> 00:18:08,110
We're gonna leave it there for how long?
419
00:18:08,110 --> 00:18:09,139
We'll leave it 20 minutes.
420
00:18:09,139 --> 00:18:10,423
20 minutes.
421
00:18:10,423 --> 00:18:11,790
We're just gonna let it sit there for 20 minutes
422
00:18:11,790 --> 00:18:13,800
as it rises, okay?
423
00:18:13,800 --> 00:18:15,368
That's the yeast doing its work.
424
00:18:15,368 --> 00:18:18,201
(cheerful music)
425
00:18:21,912 --> 00:18:24,870
Wow, look at that, isn't that fantastic, that's awesome,
426
00:18:24,870 --> 00:18:25,860
now, Kyriakos?
427
00:18:25,860 --> 00:18:26,693
What are we doing now?
428
00:18:26,693 --> 00:18:27,820
What do we got? It's easy, isn't it?
429
00:18:27,820 --> 00:18:29,590
Now we'll put the olives and cheese in
430
00:18:29,590 --> 00:18:31,800
and then knead it again.
431
00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:33,670
So we're putting the olives in,
432
00:18:33,670 --> 00:18:36,640
the cheese has been diced into these little guys this size
433
00:18:36,640 --> 00:18:39,780
and it's the buffalo cheese, aw, man, that's awesome.
434
00:18:39,780 --> 00:18:42,028
But now we put in the oregano.
435
00:18:42,028 --> 00:18:42,861
(speaks foreign language)
436
00:18:42,861 --> 00:18:43,694
Oregano.
437
00:18:43,694 --> 00:18:44,527
Fresh oregano.
438
00:18:44,527 --> 00:18:45,810
Look at that. That looks fantastic.
439
00:18:45,810 --> 00:18:46,830
Is that gonna be okay in there?
440
00:18:46,830 --> 00:18:48,271
You reckon it's gonna go everywhere, is it?
441
00:18:48,271 --> 00:18:49,104
No. (laughing)
442
00:18:49,104 --> 00:18:49,937
It's okay.
443
00:18:49,937 --> 00:18:52,384
(mixer motor whirring)
444
00:18:52,384 --> 00:18:53,523
(speaks foreign language)
445
00:18:53,523 --> 00:18:55,283
We're kneading again.
446
00:18:56,180 --> 00:18:57,300
We're kneading again.
447
00:18:57,300 --> 00:18:58,910
And after this, how long do we leave it?
448
00:18:58,910 --> 00:19:01,598
Now, with the second knead,
449
00:19:01,598 --> 00:19:02,706
it rises much faster.
450
00:19:02,706 --> 00:19:03,740
In 10 minutes it will be ready.
451
00:19:03,740 --> 00:19:05,930
So the second time that we leave it out,
452
00:19:05,930 --> 00:19:07,846
once it's been kneaded,
453
00:19:07,846 --> 00:19:10,060
it only needs to be out there for 10 minutes.
454
00:19:10,060 --> 00:19:10,893
Before we put it,
455
00:19:10,893 --> 00:19:11,726
(speaks foreign language)
456
00:19:11,726 --> 00:19:12,743
we put it in the oven, right?
457
00:19:12,743 --> 00:19:13,576
No, we leave it here.
458
00:19:13,576 --> 00:19:14,573
Yeah, 10 minutes here,
459
00:19:14,573 --> 00:19:16,048
but how long in the oven.
460
00:19:16,048 --> 00:19:17,523
We will shape them into bread
461
00:19:17,523 --> 00:19:19,423
and leave them for 10 minutes,
462
00:19:19,423 --> 00:19:20,677
and then later they go into the oven to bake.
463
00:19:20,677 --> 00:19:21,942
You love the way he says it,
464
00:19:21,942 --> 00:19:23,451
it's like, he's in love with it.
465
00:19:23,451 --> 00:19:24,284
(speaks foreign language)
466
00:19:24,284 --> 00:19:25,449
"We will make bread."
467
00:19:25,449 --> 00:19:26,623
You're a legend, man.
468
00:19:27,660 --> 00:19:28,733
He's the best.
469
00:19:30,333 --> 00:19:32,060
Look at that!
470
00:19:32,060 --> 00:19:32,893
He's gonna do it by hand
471
00:19:32,893 --> 00:19:35,863
because he wants to get it right, 100%.
472
00:19:35,863 --> 00:19:40,433
Have I look at that, have a look at this.
473
00:19:42,357 --> 00:19:44,948
Look at the color, the texture of this thing!
474
00:19:44,948 --> 00:19:45,781
(speaks foreign language)
475
00:19:45,781 --> 00:19:47,880
It goes in there?Yes, for 10 minutes.
476
00:19:47,880 --> 00:19:52,117
Okay, in here for 10 minutes, awesome, eh?
477
00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:56,180
This type of cooking requires plenty of patience,
478
00:19:56,180 --> 00:19:59,250
which historically isn't my strong point.
479
00:19:59,250 --> 00:20:00,650
There is a little bit of downtime
480
00:20:00,650 --> 00:20:02,410
between each step in the process,
481
00:20:02,410 --> 00:20:05,330
where you can have a coffee and relax or in my case,
482
00:20:05,330 --> 00:20:06,810
send a few emails,
483
00:20:06,810 --> 00:20:09,510
but then it's back into the kitchen for the next step.
484
00:20:11,170 --> 00:20:12,882
What are we doing now?
485
00:20:12,882 --> 00:20:13,974
Another 10 minutes to rise.
486
00:20:13,974 --> 00:20:15,369
We've got more room, let's put that one over there.
487
00:20:15,369 --> 00:20:18,081
Okay, right. 10 minutes?
488
00:20:18,081 --> 00:20:19,420
So they can rise.
489
00:20:19,420 --> 00:20:20,550
What? Another 10 minutes?
490
00:20:20,550 --> 00:20:22,860
Sorry, Peter, but this needs patience.
491
00:20:22,860 --> 00:20:25,450
It does need patience and I don't have any of that stuff.
492
00:20:25,450 --> 00:20:27,001
We leave them for 10 more minutes.
493
00:20:27,001 --> 00:20:29,070
10 minutes and then in the oven,
494
00:20:29,070 --> 00:20:30,773
would you turn the oven on, eh?
495
00:20:33,362 --> 00:20:36,530
Aw, man, look at these guys, look at these guys,
496
00:20:36,530 --> 00:20:38,023
they look awesome, man.
497
00:20:40,600 --> 00:20:44,667
Ooh, and hot, they're obviously hot.
498
00:20:44,667 --> 00:20:46,620
You can see the cheese really hasn't melted,
499
00:20:46,620 --> 00:20:48,218
it's still solid.
500
00:20:48,218 --> 00:20:51,217
Whereas my mother-in-law's ones it used to melt inside.
501
00:20:53,325 --> 00:20:54,408
Look at that.
502
00:20:55,355 --> 00:20:57,390
It's very hot.
503
00:20:57,390 --> 00:20:59,540
It's still very warm. You know what we're gonna do?
504
00:20:59,540 --> 00:21:00,690
We're gonna leave it for the moment.
505
00:21:00,690 --> 00:21:02,990
Look at the smoke coming out of that, smoking!
506
00:21:05,687 --> 00:21:09,447
Oh, I'm gonna make a nice sandwich, and it's dripping.
507
00:21:10,404 --> 00:21:12,320
You have to wait one or two moments,
508
00:21:12,320 --> 00:21:13,980
as it is very, very hot, you will burn yourself.
509
00:21:13,980 --> 00:21:15,660
I wanna eat it now, but I'll wait,
510
00:21:15,660 --> 00:21:17,820
I'll wait, Kyriakos, you're the best.
511
00:21:17,820 --> 00:21:18,653
You are the best, you know that?
512
00:21:18,653 --> 00:21:21,063
Those tomatoes are local and they are very nice.
513
00:21:21,063 --> 00:21:22,246
I can eat them now, can't I?
514
00:21:22,246 --> 00:21:23,193
They're local.
515
00:21:23,193 --> 00:21:26,193
They are so crunchy in your mouth.
516
00:21:27,770 --> 00:21:31,010
This was a real test for me, but I persevered,
517
00:21:31,010 --> 00:21:32,736
and in the end had the most amazing
518
00:21:32,736 --> 00:21:37,550
olive and buffalo cheese bun made from Patmos flour.
519
00:21:37,550 --> 00:21:40,230
A salted egg drizzled with olive oil
520
00:21:40,230 --> 00:21:42,109
completed the perfect sandwich.
521
00:21:42,109 --> 00:21:45,276
(upbeat, jazzy music)
522
00:21:46,136 --> 00:21:49,886
(dramatic musical flourish)
523
00:21:53,270 --> 00:21:56,910
I woke up earlier than normal, long before sunrise,
524
00:21:56,910 --> 00:21:59,960
so I could travel to a farm in the center of the island.
525
00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:02,110
The local Kasiot I was about to meet
526
00:22:02,110 --> 00:22:05,043
left the most remote and sleepiest land mass in Greece
527
00:22:05,043 --> 00:22:06,620
only to spend most of his life
528
00:22:06,620 --> 00:22:10,410
in the busiest city in the world, one that never shuts down.
529
00:22:10,410 --> 00:22:13,020
Today he's back in the serenity of Kasos,
530
00:22:13,020 --> 00:22:15,400
trading the crowds and busy streets,
531
00:22:15,400 --> 00:22:17,770
to be a herder on the mountain trails,
532
00:22:17,770 --> 00:22:20,335
and I get the feeling he prefers the latter of the two.
533
00:22:20,335 --> 00:22:21,898
(speaks foreign language)
534
00:22:21,898 --> 00:22:22,898
How are you?
535
00:22:23,895 --> 00:22:26,050
Are you well?
Thanks to god, yes.
536
00:22:26,050 --> 00:22:27,480
You're looking well.
537
00:22:27,480 --> 00:22:28,800
Are we feeding the sheep now?
538
00:22:28,800 --> 00:22:29,633
Yeah.
539
00:22:29,633 --> 00:22:30,466
Let's go. You want a hand?
540
00:22:30,466 --> 00:22:31,970
No, no, no, I've got it.
541
00:22:34,489 --> 00:22:37,332
Here come the young ones.
542
00:22:37,332 --> 00:22:38,165
Come here.
543
00:22:45,662 --> 00:22:46,546
Just pour it into one spot
544
00:22:46,546 --> 00:22:49,619
and I'll move it around with my hands.
545
00:22:49,619 --> 00:22:51,269
Pour it in
546
00:22:51,269 --> 00:22:52,619
That's it, very well done.
547
00:22:52,619 --> 00:22:53,452
This is the life!
548
00:22:53,452 --> 00:22:54,852
Beautiful sunshine?
549
00:22:54,852 --> 00:22:55,913
This is the life!
550
00:22:55,913 --> 00:22:56,790
Yeah, eh?
551
00:22:56,790 --> 00:22:58,920
You worked hard in America
552
00:22:58,920 --> 00:23:01,260
and now this is completely different.
553
00:23:01,260 --> 00:23:02,920
Yeah.
554
00:23:02,920 --> 00:23:05,693
Something different, yeah, you better believe it.
555
00:23:09,059 --> 00:23:11,336
(coos encouragingly to sheep)
556
00:23:11,336 --> 00:23:14,503
(sheep bells chiming)
557
00:23:17,969 --> 00:23:18,802
Man, this is awesome!
558
00:23:18,802 --> 00:23:21,818
(encourages sheep)
559
00:23:21,818 --> 00:23:24,985
(sheep bells chiming)
560
00:23:27,693 --> 00:23:30,159
(speaks foreign language)
561
00:23:30,159 --> 00:23:32,817
(encourages sheep)
562
00:23:32,817 --> 00:23:35,984
(sheep bells chiming)
563
00:23:41,008 --> 00:23:42,258
Morning feed.
564
00:23:43,700 --> 00:23:45,363
Everybody needs a morning feed.
565
00:23:46,750 --> 00:23:49,470
You were in America in restaurants for 47 years.
566
00:23:49,470 --> 00:23:50,303
48.48 years?
567
00:23:50,303 --> 00:23:52,160
48 years, yup.
568
00:23:52,160 --> 00:23:53,950
And, and you're originally from Kasos,
569
00:23:53,950 --> 00:23:55,210
you left when you were how old?
570
00:23:55,210 --> 00:23:58,650
I left here, Kasos, when I was 16 years old.
571
00:23:58,650 --> 00:24:00,390
I started as a dishwasher.
572
00:24:00,390 --> 00:24:01,280
As a dishwasher!
573
00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:06,280
1970. Like maybe 60 hours a week, I make a $90.
574
00:24:07,560 --> 00:24:11,310
60 Hours a week as a dishwasher, 90 bucks. Wow!
575
00:24:11,310 --> 00:24:12,143
Yup.
576
00:24:12,143 --> 00:24:13,150
And then you worked your way up?
577
00:24:13,150 --> 00:24:17,167
I work my way up, I went to the grill, after.
578
00:24:17,167 --> 00:24:18,000
On the grill.
579
00:24:18,000 --> 00:24:18,833
I working on the grill--
580
00:24:18,833 --> 00:24:19,831
I worked on the grill too!
581
00:24:19,831 --> 00:24:20,977
And after I work, I cook, I make the soup,
582
00:24:24,319 --> 00:24:27,420
and after five years I bought my own business.
583
00:24:27,420 --> 00:24:29,380
Me and four other partners.
584
00:24:29,380 --> 00:24:32,300
So, you came back to Kasos,
585
00:24:32,300 --> 00:24:34,570
you got your sheep, you got your goats.
586
00:24:34,570 --> 00:24:35,760
Your life is good here.
587
00:24:35,760 --> 00:24:36,920
Oh yeah.
588
00:24:36,920 --> 00:24:38,823
Life was good in America too.
589
00:24:38,823 --> 00:24:39,860
Good country.
590
00:24:39,860 --> 00:24:42,280
You know, America is a very nice country.
591
00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:44,540
When you work you make it.
592
00:24:44,540 --> 00:24:45,373
Yes.
593
00:24:45,373 --> 00:24:47,660
You know, you've got to work many hours to make it.
594
00:24:48,998 --> 00:24:50,888
(calm music)
595
00:24:50,888 --> 00:24:53,330
Nico's story is common amongst Greeks
596
00:24:53,330 --> 00:24:55,700
and many Europeans of the mid-1900s
597
00:24:55,700 --> 00:24:58,210
that left as boys, fleeing their farms
598
00:24:58,210 --> 00:25:01,360
that could no longer compete in a world that was changing,
599
00:25:01,360 --> 00:25:03,510
thanks to the industrial revolution.
600
00:25:03,510 --> 00:25:06,380
Many chasing work and a new life in the big cities
601
00:25:06,380 --> 00:25:09,210
had their childhood sweethearts sent over at a later date,
602
00:25:09,210 --> 00:25:11,713
eventually getting married and raising families.
603
00:25:12,967 --> 00:25:15,973
Nico, every morning you get up, what time?
604
00:25:17,190 --> 00:25:18,560
I get up 4:30.
605
00:25:18,560 --> 00:25:19,393
4:30?
606
00:25:19,393 --> 00:25:21,060
4:30 in the morning, my sister calls me,
607
00:25:21,060 --> 00:25:23,370
because she think I'm gonna oversleep.
608
00:25:23,370 --> 00:25:25,002
And you do this until what time?
609
00:25:25,002 --> 00:25:26,170
Eh, eight o'clock.
610
00:25:26,170 --> 00:25:27,420
Eight o'clock. And then what do you do after that?
611
00:25:27,420 --> 00:25:29,897
After that I go in and drink coffee.
612
00:25:29,897 --> 00:25:31,470
We're gonna drink coffee later?
613
00:25:31,470 --> 00:25:32,303
Yeah.
614
00:25:32,303 --> 00:25:33,136
I look forward to it.
615
00:25:33,136 --> 00:25:35,636
(calm music)
616
00:25:38,001 --> 00:25:41,110
After 48 years, Nico and his wife
617
00:25:41,110 --> 00:25:44,820
returned to their Homeland to rekindle past friendships
618
00:25:44,820 --> 00:25:47,338
and a way of life that never left their minds.
619
00:25:47,338 --> 00:25:51,000
Now living their dreams on the land of their forefathers,
620
00:25:51,000 --> 00:25:54,110
doing things the way it was done for centuries before them.
621
00:25:54,110 --> 00:25:56,800
Their children have gone on to live their lives in America,
622
00:25:56,800 --> 00:25:58,510
where they were born and raised.
623
00:25:58,510 --> 00:26:01,133
Maybe someday they'll hear the call of Kasos too.
624
00:26:02,024 --> 00:26:04,524
(calm music)
625
00:26:05,800 --> 00:26:07,490
Nico and his returning mates
626
00:26:07,490 --> 00:26:10,600
are a dying breed that will never be replaced.
627
00:26:10,600 --> 00:26:13,190
Living off the land, hunting for game,
628
00:26:13,190 --> 00:26:15,380
selling their produce to local villages
629
00:26:15,380 --> 00:26:18,203
and leading simple sustainable lives.
630
00:26:18,203 --> 00:26:20,703
(calm music)
631
00:26:21,980 --> 00:26:24,610
The empty mountain roads lead you to tiny towns,
632
00:26:24,610 --> 00:26:26,420
well off the beaten track.
633
00:26:26,420 --> 00:26:28,500
All around the island there are hillside villages
634
00:26:28,500 --> 00:26:30,530
and small coastal enclaves
635
00:26:30,530 --> 00:26:33,550
where a handful of people manage to forge a life.
636
00:26:33,550 --> 00:26:35,550
It might not be the easiest way to live,
637
00:26:35,550 --> 00:26:37,860
but something tells me it's very rewarding,
638
00:26:37,860 --> 00:26:40,750
suiting those that choose to be off the grid.
639
00:26:40,750 --> 00:26:43,410
Not many outsiders take the time to head inland
640
00:26:43,410 --> 00:26:46,000
and explore the rural heart of Kasos.
641
00:26:46,000 --> 00:26:48,130
Quite frankly, there aren't many outsiders
642
00:26:48,130 --> 00:26:49,890
that even come to the place
643
00:26:49,890 --> 00:26:53,270
let alone go wandering into the relatively unknown.
644
00:26:53,270 --> 00:26:56,280
But for me, it was the best way to get a true sense
645
00:26:56,280 --> 00:26:58,070
of the island's identity.
646
00:26:58,070 --> 00:27:00,604
What I discovered was a community minded people
647
00:27:00,604 --> 00:27:02,490
in tune with their environment
648
00:27:02,490 --> 00:27:05,110
and not driven by wealth or consumption.
649
00:27:05,110 --> 00:27:08,000
Life is simple and meeting people like Nico
650
00:27:08,000 --> 00:27:10,483
only made me want to unearth more of the place.
651
00:27:12,230 --> 00:27:17,060
The main port of Fri is sited by the old port of Bouka,
652
00:27:17,060 --> 00:27:21,110
and the ancient port of Emporio, which is now a beach.
653
00:27:21,110 --> 00:27:24,810
Now, when you first look at Kasos and this town,
654
00:27:24,810 --> 00:27:27,590
it's not the best looking town, it's not made for tourists,
655
00:27:27,590 --> 00:27:28,773
there aren't any tourists here.
656
00:27:28,773 --> 00:27:31,650
Only the guys that come back from the diaspora.
657
00:27:31,650 --> 00:27:32,880
There's the occasional tourist.
658
00:27:32,880 --> 00:27:35,053
It's actually one of the only islands I know of
659
00:27:35,053 --> 00:27:36,730
that nobody actually goes to,
660
00:27:36,730 --> 00:27:38,340
but that's, what's lovely about it.
661
00:27:38,340 --> 00:27:42,140
And if you go beneath that, not best-looking facade,
662
00:27:42,140 --> 00:27:45,260
you'll find a friendly bunch of people,
663
00:27:45,260 --> 00:27:48,758
good food, and a serene time.
664
00:27:48,758 --> 00:27:51,758
(mellow folk music)
665
00:27:55,310 --> 00:27:57,600
I wasn't gonna give up on Kasos.
666
00:27:57,600 --> 00:27:59,770
If there's something other than the matriarchal women
667
00:27:59,770 --> 00:28:02,640
and tiny villages, I was gonna find it.
668
00:28:02,640 --> 00:28:06,110
I soon realized I was looking at the place like a tourist,
669
00:28:06,110 --> 00:28:08,080
but Kasos isn't set up for visitors
670
00:28:08,080 --> 00:28:10,270
in the traditional sense of tourism.
671
00:28:10,270 --> 00:28:12,160
So you need to remove the prejudices
672
00:28:12,160 --> 00:28:14,350
associated with those expectations
673
00:28:14,350 --> 00:28:16,950
and see the island as a resident does.
674
00:28:16,950 --> 00:28:19,980
The funny thing is, the locals were intrigued by us
675
00:28:19,980 --> 00:28:22,310
and wanted to meet and find out who we were
676
00:28:22,310 --> 00:28:23,820
and why we were there.
677
00:28:23,820 --> 00:28:25,520
Usually it's the other way around,
678
00:28:25,520 --> 00:28:27,880
with the outsiders looking in wonder at the locals.
679
00:28:27,880 --> 00:28:31,047
(cheerful folk music)
680
00:28:34,340 --> 00:28:36,400
The moment that gave me the clearest understanding
681
00:28:36,400 --> 00:28:40,320
of the identity of Kasos, occurred late in the evening.
682
00:28:40,320 --> 00:28:43,110
As night fell and the taverna I was in finished serving,
683
00:28:43,110 --> 00:28:46,320
some of the customers sat with the waiter, chef, and owner.
684
00:28:46,320 --> 00:28:49,990
Together they gathered as a tightly bonded group of friends,
685
00:28:49,990 --> 00:28:51,652
playing music and singing.
686
00:28:51,652 --> 00:28:54,070
You couldn't help but be drawn into this,
687
00:28:54,070 --> 00:28:55,380
regardless of who you were
688
00:28:55,380 --> 00:28:57,460
and your ability to communicate with them.
689
00:28:57,460 --> 00:29:00,210
This was a family that was content with very little,
690
00:29:00,210 --> 00:29:02,290
but had so much more than those in the big cities
691
00:29:02,290 --> 00:29:04,830
with far greater financial wealth.
692
00:29:04,830 --> 00:29:07,720
I'd finally discovered the heart and soul of Kasos.
693
00:29:07,720 --> 00:29:09,520
This isn't just another Greek island.
694
00:29:09,520 --> 00:29:12,280
It's a close-knit community of beautiful people
695
00:29:12,280 --> 00:29:14,430
that find a joy in each other's company
696
00:29:14,430 --> 00:29:16,454
that few of us will ever get to experience.
697
00:29:16,454 --> 00:29:19,621
(cheerful folk music)
698
00:29:36,603 --> 00:29:40,270
(dramatic musical flourish)
699
00:29:41,770 --> 00:29:44,140
Rolling countryside and stunning scenery
700
00:29:44,140 --> 00:29:45,060
everywhere you looked.
701
00:29:45,060 --> 00:29:46,950
I could get used to this.
702
00:29:46,950 --> 00:29:49,830
It felt strange driving on such great roads
703
00:29:49,830 --> 00:29:52,130
without passing a single other person.
704
00:29:52,130 --> 00:29:53,440
It's as though they've prepared the island
705
00:29:53,440 --> 00:29:56,660
for a future that will see a boom in population or tourism,
706
00:29:56,660 --> 00:29:58,440
and maybe that'll be the case.
707
00:29:58,440 --> 00:30:01,440
For now, it's as far from being a busy tourism hub
708
00:30:01,440 --> 00:30:02,333
as you'll find.
709
00:30:03,449 --> 00:30:05,720
About a 15 minute drive from town
710
00:30:05,720 --> 00:30:09,120
and a five minute walk from the car park over there,
711
00:30:09,120 --> 00:30:10,223
you get to this point,
712
00:30:11,330 --> 00:30:13,000
and down there is considered
713
00:30:13,000 --> 00:30:15,320
one of the best beaches on the island, Avlaki,
714
00:30:16,230 --> 00:30:19,860
and it's a steep descent, and I'm gonna see what it's like.
715
00:30:19,860 --> 00:30:21,670
The crew are a bit seedy from last night,
716
00:30:21,670 --> 00:30:22,653
they had a big night.
717
00:30:22,653 --> 00:30:24,490
I went to bed early.
718
00:30:24,490 --> 00:30:26,590
So, I'm making them walk all the way down.
719
00:30:29,130 --> 00:30:31,450
I've said it before and I'll say it again.
720
00:30:31,450 --> 00:30:34,120
When a local Greek tells you a hike is 15 minutes long
721
00:30:34,120 --> 00:30:37,300
and on a walking track, don't necessarily believe them.
722
00:30:37,300 --> 00:30:38,450
More often than not,
723
00:30:38,450 --> 00:30:40,690
it'll turn out to be at least twice as long,
724
00:30:40,690 --> 00:30:43,440
and as was the case here, there's no trail.
725
00:30:43,440 --> 00:30:45,730
This was a scramble down a watercourse,
726
00:30:45,730 --> 00:30:48,330
so always plan for a longer-than-expected day out.
727
00:30:48,330 --> 00:30:50,490
Pack plenty of water and remember
728
00:30:50,490 --> 00:30:53,340
going downhill might be difficult on rocky terrain,
729
00:30:53,340 --> 00:30:55,310
but going back up after a day of swimming
730
00:30:55,310 --> 00:30:57,398
is a whole lot tougher.
731
00:30:57,398 --> 00:30:59,898
(calm music)
732
00:31:00,950 --> 00:31:04,190
You do these things to see places few get to explore,
733
00:31:04,190 --> 00:31:06,320
and experience hidden parts of an island
734
00:31:06,320 --> 00:31:07,170
that only locals know about.
735
00:31:07,170 --> 00:31:09,370
The effort brings more rewards
736
00:31:09,370 --> 00:31:11,900
than just pretty views and a beach to yourself,
737
00:31:11,900 --> 00:31:13,940
it also gives you a sense of achievement
738
00:31:13,940 --> 00:31:17,123
and the anticipation of what lies ahead is always exciting.
739
00:31:18,498 --> 00:31:20,998
(calm music)
740
00:31:22,550 --> 00:31:26,428
15 minutes? No way. More like 45.
741
00:31:26,428 --> 00:31:28,845
(calm music)
742
00:31:42,320 --> 00:31:44,533
Rough track, but wow!
743
00:31:45,769 --> 00:31:48,280
The Southwestern peninsula of Kasos
744
00:31:48,280 --> 00:31:50,160
has two very different sides.
745
00:31:50,160 --> 00:31:51,870
On one, it's settled,
746
00:31:51,870 --> 00:31:54,730
with generally still water and light breezes.
747
00:31:54,730 --> 00:31:57,360
On the other it's a very different story.
748
00:31:57,360 --> 00:32:00,190
There isn't landfall for well over a hundred kilometers,
749
00:32:00,190 --> 00:32:02,000
so the sea builds up to a force
750
00:32:02,000 --> 00:32:04,020
that you would know about around the corner.
751
00:32:04,020 --> 00:32:07,420
Now, seriously, Avlaki was a 15 minute drive
752
00:32:07,420 --> 00:32:08,830
and not a 15 minute walk,
753
00:32:08,830 --> 00:32:10,610
it was more like a 40 minute walk
754
00:32:10,610 --> 00:32:13,857
through a path that I got lost on three or four times.
755
00:32:13,857 --> 00:32:15,580
But it didn't matter, 'cause because all you had to do
756
00:32:15,580 --> 00:32:17,400
was aim for the beach.
757
00:32:17,400 --> 00:32:20,663
Yeah, it was difficult, yeah it's a pebbly beach,
758
00:32:21,560 --> 00:32:23,860
but you can see for kilometers around you
759
00:32:23,860 --> 00:32:26,140
and there's nobody here.
760
00:32:26,140 --> 00:32:28,120
The water is pristine.
761
00:32:28,120 --> 00:32:31,750
The temperature is absolutely magnificent
762
00:32:31,750 --> 00:32:34,600
and there's only one thing you do when you get down here.
763
00:32:37,310 --> 00:32:38,430
Take it all off.
764
00:32:40,410 --> 00:32:42,219
But you can't stay for all that, I'm sorry.
765
00:32:42,219 --> 00:32:44,719
(calm music)
766
00:32:50,680 --> 00:32:54,760
Please understand, I'm certainly not an avid nude bather.
767
00:32:54,760 --> 00:32:57,225
In fact, I'm a little self-conscious
768
00:32:57,225 --> 00:33:00,470
but something came over me walked down here.
769
00:33:00,470 --> 00:33:02,790
The place was calling out for me to strip off
770
00:33:02,790 --> 00:33:05,327
and connect with nature in the most raw way.
771
00:33:06,300 --> 00:33:09,620
Wow. What an experience. it's kind of liberating.
772
00:33:09,620 --> 00:33:12,480
I could get used to this, but only at beaches
773
00:33:12,480 --> 00:33:14,631
where there's not a soul around for miles.
774
00:33:14,631 --> 00:33:17,131
(calm music)
775
00:33:18,400 --> 00:33:19,840
You know how earlier I mentioned
776
00:33:19,840 --> 00:33:21,970
being mindful of the walk back up.
777
00:33:21,970 --> 00:33:24,670
Well, I certainly was, which is why I called the captain
778
00:33:24,670 --> 00:33:27,070
to race around and pick us up in the tender.
779
00:33:27,070 --> 00:33:28,840
Apart from feeling a little lazy,
780
00:33:28,840 --> 00:33:30,690
I also wanted to check out the coast.
781
00:33:31,580 --> 00:33:33,040
The locals told me I had to step foot
782
00:33:33,040 --> 00:33:35,720
on a tiny island across from the mouth of the harbor.
783
00:33:35,720 --> 00:33:38,040
What had excited me was that beneath my feet
784
00:33:38,040 --> 00:33:40,750
on that tiny island, I'd be feeling sand,
785
00:33:40,750 --> 00:33:43,797
not the pebbles you get on a lot of the beaches in Greece.
786
00:33:43,797 --> 00:33:44,934
But before getting there,
787
00:33:44,934 --> 00:33:47,043
I had the dramatic cliffs to take in.
788
00:33:47,043 --> 00:33:49,520
(calm music)
789
00:33:49,520 --> 00:33:51,830
North of Kasos and very close
790
00:33:51,830 --> 00:33:56,373
is this small, uninhabited island of Armathia,
791
00:33:57,650 --> 00:34:00,100
which has this beautiful, soft sand
792
00:34:00,100 --> 00:34:01,993
on it's three or four beaches.
793
00:34:03,450 --> 00:34:05,400
In summer, there's a little caïque
794
00:34:05,400 --> 00:34:08,000
that will take you here in about 15 minutes,
795
00:34:08,000 --> 00:34:09,120
and you can come and have a swim
796
00:34:09,120 --> 00:34:12,610
in this beautiful turquoise water.
797
00:34:12,610 --> 00:34:14,670
It's uninhabited, but at one stage
798
00:34:14,670 --> 00:34:15,905
there was a hundred people living here
799
00:34:15,905 --> 00:34:17,660
and there was a couple of taverns.
800
00:34:17,660 --> 00:34:18,493
All gone now.
801
00:34:18,493 --> 00:34:20,968
(calm music)
802
00:34:26,710 --> 00:34:29,500
This amazing little spot is a great example
803
00:34:29,500 --> 00:34:32,370
of why you shouldn't always believe what you read.
804
00:34:32,370 --> 00:34:34,397
Nowhere in any of the numerous
805
00:34:34,397 --> 00:34:37,430
"top beaches of Greece" articles I've read over the years,
806
00:34:37,430 --> 00:34:38,300
has there been a mention
807
00:34:38,300 --> 00:34:41,120
of this beautiful haven of Armathia.
808
00:34:41,120 --> 00:34:43,570
I've seen my fair share of Greek Islands,
809
00:34:43,570 --> 00:34:46,250
and I reckon I've walked on a thousand beaches,
810
00:34:46,250 --> 00:34:49,190
and this place is now in my top 10,
811
00:34:49,190 --> 00:34:51,050
but let's keep it to ourselves,
812
00:34:51,050 --> 00:34:53,645
otherwise I might build a resort over here and ruin it.
813
00:34:53,645 --> 00:34:56,145
(calm music)
814
00:35:03,498 --> 00:35:07,748
I don't think I've ever felt softer sand in Greece.
815
00:35:11,110 --> 00:35:13,690
The granules are so fine.
816
00:35:13,690 --> 00:35:15,573
I think the next level down is flour.
817
00:35:16,790 --> 00:35:18,975
It's just so soft.
818
00:35:18,975 --> 00:35:21,290
You walk up here and you just collapse,
819
00:35:21,290 --> 00:35:22,846
and look at this, you just collapse into it.
820
00:35:22,846 --> 00:35:23,679
Amazing.
821
00:35:24,660 --> 00:35:29,470
Soft sand, warm turquoise water, and nobody around.
822
00:35:29,470 --> 00:35:32,460
Helen thought all her birthdays had come at once.
823
00:35:32,460 --> 00:35:34,170
Whether it's through research,
824
00:35:34,170 --> 00:35:36,030
the captain and I looking at maps,
825
00:35:36,030 --> 00:35:38,600
or by talking to locals, it's always my mission
826
00:35:38,600 --> 00:35:40,940
to find the best beaches for her to bask in.
827
00:35:40,940 --> 00:35:42,990
I'm an idiot. I didn't bring my swimmers.
828
00:35:45,084 --> 00:35:50,084
I might just get down to my underwear and go in for a swim.
829
00:35:50,524 --> 00:35:53,024
(calm music)
830
00:35:56,710 --> 00:36:00,290
The nude bathing at Avlaki must've liberated my mind.
831
00:36:00,290 --> 00:36:02,770
Here I was, talking about getting my kit off again
832
00:36:02,770 --> 00:36:05,380
for another swim, but do you blame me?
833
00:36:05,380 --> 00:36:08,060
This place is too pretty not to go for a dip.
834
00:36:08,060 --> 00:36:11,367
Anyway, there's no one around except for the film crew.
835
00:36:11,367 --> 00:36:13,784
(calm music)
836
00:36:17,195 --> 00:36:20,945
(dramatic musical flourish)
837
00:36:26,380 --> 00:36:30,290
Even this tiny forgotten island of Kasos
838
00:36:30,290 --> 00:36:32,810
has its historical ruins.
839
00:36:32,810 --> 00:36:36,450
Finding them is hard enough, and thankfully for the locals,
840
00:36:36,450 --> 00:36:39,220
that can point the way, but once you get there
841
00:36:39,220 --> 00:36:41,710
you get on a track and thankfully this is a paved track
842
00:36:41,710 --> 00:36:42,860
and it's been a while
843
00:36:43,770 --> 00:36:45,820
since we've seen a paved track to ruins
844
00:36:45,820 --> 00:36:48,040
and our crew are all smiles.
845
00:36:48,040 --> 00:36:50,783
So we're heading up to Ellinokamara,
846
00:36:50,783 --> 00:36:52,923
I think that's what they call it.
847
00:36:54,250 --> 00:36:55,793
I'm looking forward to it.
848
00:37:00,070 --> 00:37:02,840
This site is significant for many reasons.
849
00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:05,230
It's so important that they've built this path
850
00:37:05,230 --> 00:37:06,242
to provide access.
851
00:37:06,242 --> 00:37:10,060
Not that anyone uses it and decades after it was discovered,
852
00:37:10,060 --> 00:37:11,820
archeologists are still investigating
853
00:37:11,820 --> 00:37:14,950
its origins and purpose, but being so remote
854
00:37:14,950 --> 00:37:17,360
on an island in the farthest corner of Greece
855
00:37:17,360 --> 00:37:19,240
has placed it on the back pages
856
00:37:19,240 --> 00:37:22,390
as barely a mention of a place to visit in the Aegean.
857
00:37:22,390 --> 00:37:23,690
No one comes here.
858
00:37:23,690 --> 00:37:26,190
Even the locals couldn't guide us to its location.
859
00:37:38,322 --> 00:37:41,220
Well, it's just really imposing
860
00:37:41,220 --> 00:37:44,640
when you first walk in here and you see these massive blocks
861
00:37:44,640 --> 00:37:46,420
and these smaller ones would show you
862
00:37:46,420 --> 00:37:48,820
that it's been built at different times.
863
00:37:48,820 --> 00:37:52,690
And now I can understand why it's called Ellinokamara
864
00:37:52,690 --> 00:37:54,500
which means Greek vault.
865
00:37:54,500 --> 00:37:57,607
It's basically a vault built into a cave.
866
00:37:57,607 --> 00:38:02,607
It's a really impressive thing to behold.
867
00:38:08,180 --> 00:38:12,000
What I love about this space that's within a cave
868
00:38:12,000 --> 00:38:14,780
and partly structured at the front
869
00:38:14,780 --> 00:38:17,440
is the number of civilizations
870
00:38:17,440 --> 00:38:20,605
that have actually occupied the space.
871
00:38:20,605 --> 00:38:24,770
The first thing you'll see is this fluted column,
872
00:38:24,770 --> 00:38:29,770
which must have been part of an altar on a Byzantine church.
873
00:38:29,890 --> 00:38:32,630
Then you come through here and you see
874
00:38:32,630 --> 00:38:34,600
what was imposing when we first walked in,
875
00:38:34,600 --> 00:38:38,100
which was these Hellenistic blocks,
876
00:38:38,100 --> 00:38:41,340
this must've been some sort of 5th century BC
877
00:38:41,340 --> 00:38:42,830
Hellenistic wall,
878
00:38:42,830 --> 00:38:45,880
and that's recorded and confirmed by archeologists.
879
00:38:45,880 --> 00:38:47,730
We then walk through
880
00:38:47,730 --> 00:38:50,530
and you can see that there is a division between
881
00:38:50,530 --> 00:38:53,370
two parts of the cave from which time?
882
00:38:53,370 --> 00:38:54,550
Possibly Hellenistic.
883
00:38:54,550 --> 00:38:58,550
And then you keep coming through to the opening
884
00:38:58,550 --> 00:39:02,130
and then to the other portion of the cave,
885
00:39:02,130 --> 00:39:05,640
and there is this old rock wall,
886
00:39:05,640 --> 00:39:07,790
which could be Byzantine, I'm not too sure.
887
00:39:08,640 --> 00:39:09,920
And you come in here
888
00:39:09,920 --> 00:39:12,860
and it's still being investigated, as you can see.
889
00:39:12,860 --> 00:39:15,240
But what else has been found in here and confirmed
890
00:39:15,240 --> 00:39:20,240
is Minoan script, which is three and a half thousand BC,
891
00:39:20,470 --> 00:39:23,840
and also some prehistoric evidence.
892
00:39:23,840 --> 00:39:26,810
So we're talking about civilizations using it
893
00:39:26,810 --> 00:39:29,057
as far back as prehistory, 7,000, 3,000 BC.
894
00:39:30,990 --> 00:39:33,050
Hellenistic times, most definitely,
895
00:39:33,050 --> 00:39:34,630
and then through the Byzantine times,
896
00:39:34,630 --> 00:39:37,770
and just as recently as 1824,
897
00:39:37,770 --> 00:39:41,180
when I'm told some of the locals hid here
898
00:39:41,180 --> 00:39:46,180
from the Ottoman raid, though, the place was burned down
899
00:39:47,210 --> 00:39:49,133
and they didn't survive.
900
00:39:50,070 --> 00:39:51,853
It's just an amazing space.
901
00:39:53,790 --> 00:39:55,390
Kasos had sent its fleet to help
902
00:39:55,390 --> 00:39:57,120
with liberation of Greece,
903
00:39:57,120 --> 00:39:58,930
and the retaliation of the Ottoman Empire
904
00:39:58,930 --> 00:40:01,560
was to be expected, but no one could foresee
905
00:40:01,560 --> 00:40:04,110
the brutality of the massacre that happened here.
906
00:40:04,110 --> 00:40:08,530
The Egyptian fleet, along with 1,500 or more Albanian troops
907
00:40:08,530 --> 00:40:11,530
landed on the relatively unfortified island.
908
00:40:11,530 --> 00:40:14,930
After spending two days bombarding it with artillery,
909
00:40:14,930 --> 00:40:18,560
they swept across and quickly the islanders capitulated.
910
00:40:18,560 --> 00:40:20,980
500 Kasiot men were slain,
911
00:40:20,980 --> 00:40:23,010
and over 2,000 women and children
912
00:40:23,010 --> 00:40:25,940
sent to the slave markets in Crete and Egypt.
913
00:40:25,940 --> 00:40:27,560
It was devastating.
914
00:40:27,560 --> 00:40:29,200
Yet despite what occurred,
915
00:40:29,200 --> 00:40:31,100
when the Greek fleet eventually arrived
916
00:40:31,100 --> 00:40:33,830
and offered the survivors transport to a new home,
917
00:40:33,830 --> 00:40:36,843
they refused, preferring to stay and rebuild.
918
00:40:38,290 --> 00:40:42,770
It's our last day in Kasos, and I'm sad.
919
00:40:42,770 --> 00:40:47,770
I'm sad because you can't really show Kasos on film.
920
00:40:49,070 --> 00:40:52,310
What we've seen, I haven't really delivered to you,
921
00:40:52,310 --> 00:40:53,350
and I apologize for that
922
00:40:53,350 --> 00:40:55,743
because it's about the people.
923
00:40:57,100 --> 00:41:00,700
These are generations of people that have stuck together,
924
00:41:00,700 --> 00:41:02,740
worked together, lived together,
925
00:41:02,740 --> 00:41:04,090
and it's such a small community
926
00:41:04,090 --> 00:41:07,644
and you can see it in their hospitality.
927
00:41:07,644 --> 00:41:10,340
They say, hello, good morning, good night.
928
00:41:10,340 --> 00:41:11,630
Every time you go by them,
929
00:41:11,630 --> 00:41:13,990
they're just wonderful, wonderful people.
930
00:41:13,990 --> 00:41:16,720
And you only experience that when you come here.
931
00:41:16,720 --> 00:41:18,332
Four days just wasn't enough.
932
00:41:18,332 --> 00:41:20,915
(calm music)
933
00:41:26,816 --> 00:41:28,852
There might not be any nightclubs here,
934
00:41:28,852 --> 00:41:32,260
but if you like to sing, dance and play music,
935
00:41:32,260 --> 00:41:34,320
you can definitely do it on Kasos,
936
00:41:34,320 --> 00:41:36,640
and will likely be joined by the locals.
937
00:41:36,640 --> 00:41:38,900
If you show a little interest in getting to know them,
938
00:41:38,900 --> 00:41:40,750
you'll discover they're friendly people,
939
00:41:40,750 --> 00:41:42,220
keen to share their stories
940
00:41:42,220 --> 00:41:44,400
and some of the secrets of the island.
941
00:41:44,400 --> 00:41:46,210
You don't have the everyday conveniences
942
00:41:46,210 --> 00:41:48,600
like takeaway shops, cinemas,
943
00:41:48,600 --> 00:41:51,910
lots of retail outlets and electronics stores,
944
00:41:51,910 --> 00:41:54,800
but what you do get is something far more special.
945
00:41:54,800 --> 00:41:56,730
Kasos is as raw as you get,
946
00:41:56,730 --> 00:41:58,683
and with that rawness comes honesty.
947
00:42:00,350 --> 00:42:02,220
Traveling down the coast of Rhodes,
948
00:42:02,220 --> 00:42:04,290
we've come to the southernmost tip,
949
00:42:04,290 --> 00:42:07,900
and behind me is Prasonisi, which is separated from Rhodes
950
00:42:07,900 --> 00:42:10,510
with this tiny little sand isthmus,
951
00:42:10,510 --> 00:42:12,210
and as you can see behind me,
952
00:42:12,210 --> 00:42:15,530
there are wind surfers, kite surfers, foil surfers.
953
00:42:15,530 --> 00:42:18,057
They're all lunatics because there's so much traffic there
954
00:42:18,057 --> 00:42:21,590
they need some sort of air traffic control.
955
00:42:21,590 --> 00:42:23,190
It's an awesome sight.
956
00:42:23,190 --> 00:42:25,966
I don't think I've seen so many kite surfers in one spot.
957
00:42:25,966 --> 00:42:27,990
(calm music)
958
00:42:27,990 --> 00:42:29,513
No other word for it than wow!
959
00:42:31,660 --> 00:42:32,890
You never hear about it,
960
00:42:32,890 --> 00:42:35,260
but professional athletes and novices alike
961
00:42:35,260 --> 00:42:37,210
travel to Greece from all around the world
962
00:42:37,210 --> 00:42:39,600
to do extreme sports like this.
963
00:42:39,600 --> 00:42:41,400
It's not just limited to Rhodes.
964
00:42:41,400 --> 00:42:43,700
In Lemnos there was also wind surfing,
965
00:42:43,700 --> 00:42:46,350
Kalymnos has some of the best rock climbing on the planet.
966
00:42:46,350 --> 00:42:49,760
The mainland draws mountain runners, Ikaria has surfing.
967
00:42:49,760 --> 00:42:52,240
There's even canyoning and cliff diving,
968
00:42:52,240 --> 00:42:53,820
so don't go thinking this part of the world
969
00:42:53,820 --> 00:42:56,480
is just for history buffs and sun bathers.
970
00:42:56,480 --> 00:42:58,433
I might be biased, but I can tell you now,
971
00:42:58,433 --> 00:43:00,950
there's something in Greece for everyone,
972
00:43:00,950 --> 00:43:03,670
young, old, active or relaxed.
973
00:43:03,670 --> 00:43:06,161
It's a choose your own adventure kind of place.
974
00:43:06,161 --> 00:43:08,018
Me, I like a bit of everything,
975
00:43:08,018 --> 00:43:10,610
so I may have to get the flight board out for a whirl.
976
00:43:10,610 --> 00:43:12,630
Actually, I think I'll just spectate,
977
00:43:12,630 --> 00:43:14,435
because it looks like madness out there.
978
00:43:14,435 --> 00:43:17,900
In the next episode I'm exploring the Island of Rhodes.
979
00:43:17,900 --> 00:43:20,670
It needs little in the way of introduction, there's no doubt
980
00:43:20,670 --> 00:43:23,070
most of you have heard at least something about it.
981
00:43:23,070 --> 00:43:25,300
It's one of the most visited places in Greece
982
00:43:25,300 --> 00:43:27,240
with a long history that's clearly visible,
983
00:43:27,240 --> 00:43:29,230
through the incredible architecture.
984
00:43:29,230 --> 00:43:30,840
Rhodes is a complete contrast
985
00:43:30,840 --> 00:43:32,910
to the Islands of Karpathos and Kasos,
986
00:43:32,910 --> 00:43:34,450
where we'd spent the last 10 days
987
00:43:34,450 --> 00:43:36,560
living in peace and tranquility.
988
00:43:36,560 --> 00:43:38,840
It was time to get back into civilization
989
00:43:38,840 --> 00:43:39,920
and delve into the story
990
00:43:39,920 --> 00:43:42,573
of why this is such a popular tourist destination.
991
00:43:44,690 --> 00:43:46,550
To see more of "My Greek Odyssey",
992
00:43:46,550 --> 00:43:49,410
head to our website at mygreekodyssey.com.
993
00:43:49,410 --> 00:43:51,560
There you'll find plenty to keep you entertained,
994
00:43:51,560 --> 00:43:54,696
including Kyriakos' awesome recipes.
995
00:43:54,696 --> 00:43:57,196
(calm music)
77037
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