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China, home to one in five
of the planet's population.
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The superpower the world fears,
but few really know.
3
00:00:14,320 --> 00:00:18,160
Ken Hom,
is the godfather of Chinese food.
4
00:00:18,160 --> 00:00:19,200
Heaven on earth!
5
00:00:19,200 --> 00:00:22,680
He introduced the wok to the West
more than 30 years ago.
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00:00:22,680 --> 00:00:25,920
This is the way
you should be cooking it.
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00:00:25,920 --> 00:00:31,240
Ching-He Huang is leading the next
generation of Chinese cooks...
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00:00:31,240 --> 00:00:33,280
I'm just going to chop off the head.
9
00:00:33,280 --> 00:00:36,160
..with a modern,
inventive approach to the cuisine.
10
00:00:36,160 --> 00:00:38,280
Like ducks playing in springtime.
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00:00:39,720 --> 00:00:43,200
'We're taking a once-in-a-lifetime
adventure across China,
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00:00:43,200 --> 00:00:44,360
'through food...'
13
00:00:44,360 --> 00:00:47,040
Rabbit head! Shall we try one?
14
00:00:47,040 --> 00:00:49,960
'..to delve into
its heart and soul.'
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00:00:49,960 --> 00:00:52,960
Bang it, pull it.
16
00:00:52,960 --> 00:00:55,760
Food is the best way to explore
Chinese culture
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00:00:55,760 --> 00:00:58,280
because we really live to eat.
18
00:01:00,480 --> 00:01:04,080
It's an epic trip - 3,000 miles,
from the mega cities of the east...
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00:01:05,880 --> 00:01:08,360
..to the forgotten villages
of the wild west.
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00:01:10,000 --> 00:01:13,680
It's like we've been back to
the time of Genghis Khan.
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00:01:13,680 --> 00:01:17,720
Eurgh! She's just decapitated it!
22
00:01:17,720 --> 00:01:23,680
'We'll uncover the familiar,
the secret and the surprising...'
23
00:01:23,680 --> 00:01:27,880
Wow, I've never seen
that done before.
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00:01:27,880 --> 00:01:31,560
'..cook simple, delicious dishes.'
That is my Sichuan sausage.
25
00:01:31,560 --> 00:01:36,440
And reveal the secrets of China,
old and new.
26
00:01:36,440 --> 00:01:40,200
It's like a journey that
I've always dreamt about,
27
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but in a China I've dreamt about.
28
00:01:50,160 --> 00:01:53,480
We've left the heaving mega cities
of eastern China far behind...'
29
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Yes!
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'..to embark on an intrepid
journey across China's vast
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'western frontier.'
32
00:02:04,440 --> 00:02:08,960
It looks like an ancient medieval
city we've come to.
33
00:02:08,960 --> 00:02:12,000
It's really on the far fringes of
China.
34
00:02:12,000 --> 00:02:16,200
We're travelling 3,000 miles,
from the tropical jungle of Yunnan,
35
00:02:16,200 --> 00:02:19,320
to the deeply-divided
Muslim city of Kashgar.
36
00:02:20,480 --> 00:02:24,360
These regions are home to many
of China's 55 ethnic minorities,
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00:02:24,360 --> 00:02:27,000
who make up almost
10% of the population.
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00:02:30,640 --> 00:02:32,880
Historically,
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00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:36,400
these minorities were seen as a
threat to the realm by Han emperors.
40
00:02:36,400 --> 00:02:40,160
We want to discover the fate
of their culture and cuisines
in modern China.
41
00:02:41,880 --> 00:02:43,920
I think it's beautiful -
it's like a ritual.
42
00:02:43,920 --> 00:02:47,280
We're spending our first
week in Yunnan province
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in southwest China,
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on the border with Vietnam,
Laos and Burma.
45
00:02:56,040 --> 00:02:58,840
Ah, we're here!
Yeah, it's beautiful!
46
00:03:00,920 --> 00:03:04,040
This is Yuanping village,
home to the Dai minority,
47
00:03:04,040 --> 00:03:07,400
who settled in Yunnan
in the seventh century.
48
00:03:10,720 --> 00:03:12,200
Is this the village chief?
49
00:03:13,600 --> 00:03:18,120
Tribal chiefs like Bo Wangjian
have been head of Dai villages
for centuries.
50
00:03:22,840 --> 00:03:27,320
Once an hereditary post, today
chiefs are elected by villagers
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and report to their district
Communist Party government.
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COCK CROWS
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00:03:38,320 --> 00:03:41,680
These families live in homes
with few modern conveniences.
54
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This is the house?
55
00:03:43,680 --> 00:03:48,400
With no electricity, cooking
takes place over a simple open fire.
56
00:03:51,880 --> 00:03:55,280
Wow, it's a limited kitchen, huh?
I'd like to cook here.
57
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That's wonderful.
58
00:03:57,040 --> 00:03:58,560
THEY LAUGH
59
00:03:58,560 --> 00:04:00,200
Tell him we'd like to cook
60
00:04:00,200 --> 00:04:04,880
and share with him
our love of cooking,
61
00:04:04,880 --> 00:04:08,280
and especially the ingredients
that you find here.
62
00:04:08,280 --> 00:04:09,840
THEY SPEAK MANDARIN
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00:04:16,400 --> 00:04:19,920
We'll be cooking for the chief
later, but first we're heading out
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00:04:19,920 --> 00:04:24,480
into the local farmland to learn
more about the Dai way of life.
65
00:04:25,800 --> 00:04:30,240
What I like is how they take the
creek, how they irrigate the field.
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00:04:30,240 --> 00:04:32,520
I like that very much. Yeah.
67
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The Dai people were one of the
first cultivators of rice in China.
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00:04:36,560 --> 00:04:40,920
Today, like 128 million of
China's rural poor,
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00:04:40,920 --> 00:04:44,640
the villagers of Yuanping
live on less than a pound a day.
70
00:04:45,920 --> 00:04:48,920
To survive, they must utilise
everything in their environment.
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00:04:50,680 --> 00:04:54,840
These local foresters prove
just how resourceful they must be.
72
00:04:54,840 --> 00:04:58,960
How do they know how to,
you know, harvest bamboo?
73
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Cos it is a skill, cos
their knife skills are incredible.
74
00:05:06,040 --> 00:05:10,480
This is as strong as steel.
And it's flexible, too.
75
00:05:10,480 --> 00:05:13,280
And it can be reused again
and again. Yeah, absolutely.
76
00:05:13,280 --> 00:05:16,520
Yunnan has 250 types of bamboo
77
00:05:16,520 --> 00:05:20,680
and the Dai villagers have found
ingenious uses for it
78
00:05:20,680 --> 00:05:23,560
from building houses,
bridges and farm tools
79
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to making food and medicine.
80
00:05:36,280 --> 00:05:40,160
For these foresters, who spend long
hours working up the mountains,
81
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one bamboo tree will provide them
with all the kitchen utensils
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they need to make lunch on the go.
83
00:05:52,960 --> 00:05:56,800
It's a big bowl. Look at this -
they've made these, as well.
84
00:05:56,800 --> 00:05:59,640
I like this. I want one of these.
85
00:05:59,640 --> 00:06:01,840
Now they are making chopsticks
86
00:06:01,840 --> 00:06:04,720
Oh brilliant! Bamboo chopsticks!
87
00:06:04,720 --> 00:06:08,120
Amazing - can they make us a bamboo
steamer to take home, as well?
88
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Everything here is sustainable,
natural!
89
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'The men are making two dishes
for lunch using the bamboo stalks.'
90
00:06:37,400 --> 00:06:41,680
So first, the aromatics. Wow!
91
00:06:41,680 --> 00:06:44,520
Yum! That looks great.
92
00:06:44,520 --> 00:06:47,400
'First is a fragrant chicken stew
93
00:06:47,400 --> 00:06:49,600
'with chilli, ginger
and Vietnamese mint.
94
00:06:49,600 --> 00:06:52,680
'The ingredients are stuffed
inside the bamboo stalk,
95
00:06:52,680 --> 00:06:55,520
'water is added, then rolled-up
banana leaves are used
96
00:06:55,520 --> 00:06:58,720
'to seal the contents to
keep in the moisture.'
97
00:07:00,200 --> 00:07:04,800
This shows what Chinese civilisation
and food is all about.
98
00:07:06,160 --> 00:07:07,720
It's ingenious,
99
00:07:07,720 --> 00:07:12,920
because it's using everything
from your environment in a nice way.
100
00:07:14,600 --> 00:07:18,600
'The second dish is made of
glutinous rice and peanuts,
101
00:07:18,600 --> 00:07:21,960
'which are packed inside
a smaller bamboo stalk.'
102
00:07:21,960 --> 00:07:24,880
My grandmother always
said, "Don't waste rice,"
103
00:07:24,880 --> 00:07:28,640
because you know each grain of rice
is like a bead of sweat,
104
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because it takes such hard work
and back breaking
to collect each grain.
105
00:07:33,360 --> 00:07:36,320
Now he said you can cook it, yeah!
106
00:07:36,320 --> 00:07:39,320
'Both bamboo stalks are put
on the open fire
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'to cook for about half an hour.'
108
00:07:43,840 --> 00:07:45,960
It's certainly a new thing for me.
109
00:07:45,960 --> 00:07:48,600
I've never seen anything like this,
and I think it's fantastic.
110
00:07:51,160 --> 00:07:53,920
Oh, he's stirring!
111
00:07:57,040 --> 00:08:00,680
I think this ritual shows that
China is still very agrarian.
112
00:08:00,680 --> 00:08:03,600
Almost half the population
has moved to the urban areas,
113
00:08:03,600 --> 00:08:08,440
but still it has a very rich,
agricultural heritage,
114
00:08:08,440 --> 00:08:12,280
and I think this type of ritual
expresses that.
115
00:08:12,280 --> 00:08:15,720
Chicken is done! Oh, it's finished?
116
00:08:15,720 --> 00:08:18,560
Chicken soup. That looks good.
117
00:08:18,560 --> 00:08:20,880
Oh, wonderful.
118
00:08:20,880 --> 00:08:22,960
There goes the head!
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THEY LAUGH
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00:08:23,880 --> 00:08:25,880
Now he's going to crack it open.
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He's cracking it open.
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00:08:28,000 --> 00:08:30,440
Oh, that looks good. Wow!
123
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You can taste all the herbs.
124
00:08:37,040 --> 00:08:38,880
It's spicy, too. That's wonderful.
125
00:08:38,880 --> 00:08:40,280
That is really wonderful.
126
00:08:40,280 --> 00:08:42,160
There is that bamboo fragrance...
127
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Which is very unusual.
128
00:08:44,280 --> 00:08:46,800
..and that really beautiful
delicate sweetness.
129
00:08:46,800 --> 00:08:48,240
It's beautiful.
130
00:08:48,240 --> 00:08:52,080
They have their tradition,
and it's nice that they maintain it.
131
00:08:54,160 --> 00:08:56,520
The eldest here!
132
00:08:56,520 --> 00:08:58,320
Oh, thank you(!)
133
00:08:58,320 --> 00:08:59,400
HE LAUGHS
134
00:08:59,400 --> 00:09:02,480
There's some Chinese traditions
I don't like.
135
00:09:02,480 --> 00:09:04,760
HE LAUGHS
136
00:09:08,560 --> 00:09:10,920
'After lunch, we head back
to the village
137
00:09:10,920 --> 00:09:13,200
'to prepare dinner for our host,
the chief.
138
00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:18,480
'Whilst Ching and the women
go river fishing for some of
tonight's ingredients...'
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00:09:18,480 --> 00:09:21,240
CHICKEN SQUAWKS
140
00:09:21,240 --> 00:09:22,720
'..I start on the chicken.'
141
00:09:22,720 --> 00:09:25,400
You must cut, like here.
142
00:09:25,400 --> 00:09:27,040
CHICKEN SQUAWKS
143
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Just one, and you let it bleed
and the blood is not wasted,
144
00:09:31,240 --> 00:09:33,760
because you put it with salt
145
00:09:33,760 --> 00:09:36,080
and you can make a sort of
blood pudding with it.
146
00:09:36,080 --> 00:09:38,600
It goes in soup, or is stir-fried.
147
00:09:38,600 --> 00:09:40,800
You can't feel the heart beating
any more.
148
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And that's it.
149
00:09:42,480 --> 00:09:46,720
I did that when I taught
professional chefs how to cook,
150
00:09:46,720 --> 00:09:49,960
and half the class almost fainted,
151
00:09:49,960 --> 00:09:53,880
and the other half went to
complain to the dean,
152
00:09:53,880 --> 00:09:58,120
and the dean said to me, "Ken,
please don't ever do that again!"
153
00:09:58,120 --> 00:10:00,760
But, if you want to really
learn about food,
154
00:10:00,760 --> 00:10:03,040
I think you have
to take the good and the bad.
155
00:10:03,040 --> 00:10:06,920
You just can't go to the supermarket
and say, eat chicken,
156
00:10:06,920 --> 00:10:09,080
you have to know how it's killed.
157
00:10:09,080 --> 00:10:13,520
If you don't like it,
it bothers you, then don't eat it.
158
00:10:13,520 --> 00:10:14,720
Simple as that.
159
00:10:14,720 --> 00:10:17,680
'The chief and I are going to cook
a dish each with this chicken
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'to feed ten people.
161
00:10:20,400 --> 00:10:24,320
'This might look small compared to
what you'd find in Britain,
162
00:10:24,320 --> 00:10:27,800
'where we eat on average
three times more chicken
163
00:10:27,800 --> 00:10:30,440
'per person than the Chinese.
164
00:10:30,440 --> 00:10:34,280
'But in a country where there
are over one billion mouths to feed,
165
00:10:34,280 --> 00:10:36,880
'that kind of consumption
is unsustainable.'
166
00:10:36,880 --> 00:10:39,480
Meat is to garnish the veggies.
167
00:10:39,480 --> 00:10:41,680
In the West, veggies
are a second thought.
168
00:10:41,680 --> 00:10:43,800
You usually have a big piece of
meat,
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00:10:43,800 --> 00:10:47,520
then you have all these vegetables
that are a second thought,
170
00:10:47,520 --> 00:10:50,480
and as we know, that's not good for
your health.
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00:10:50,480 --> 00:10:52,840
To me, that's really the lessons.
172
00:10:52,840 --> 00:10:57,000
I think the West can learn
from Chinese dietary practices.
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'I'm cooking a chicken stir-fry,
174
00:10:59,640 --> 00:11:02,640
'which, in true, resourceful
Dai style,
175
00:11:02,640 --> 00:11:05,960
'is using ingredients sourced within
50 yards of where I'm standing.
176
00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:09,480
'Even the sauce for the marinade
is home-made.'
177
00:11:09,480 --> 00:11:12,280
I asked the chief,
"Can I have some rice wine?"
178
00:11:12,280 --> 00:11:16,440
And this is a home-made
brew that he makes!
179
00:11:16,440 --> 00:11:20,160
Phew, God, if I taste this,
I won't be able to cook!
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00:11:20,160 --> 00:11:21,360
HE LAUGHS
181
00:11:23,000 --> 00:11:26,040
Ooh! That's - wow!
182
00:11:26,040 --> 00:11:28,000
THEY LAUGH
183
00:11:28,000 --> 00:11:30,120
I think I'd better give it
to the chicken!
184
00:11:30,120 --> 00:11:34,200
'I'm leaving the chicken to marinate
for half an hour in light soy sauce
185
00:11:34,200 --> 00:11:37,800
'and the chief's
home-brewed rice wine.'
186
00:11:37,800 --> 00:11:39,760
SHE LAUGHS
187
00:11:42,520 --> 00:11:45,960
'The Dai ladies do all
the fishing for their village.
188
00:11:45,960 --> 00:11:49,000
'There are more than 600 rivers
and lakes in Yunnan,
189
00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:52,880
'with millions of people depending
on them for food and water.'
190
00:11:54,520 --> 00:11:57,160
I've never seen this unique
way of fishing.
191
00:11:57,160 --> 00:12:00,760
They're just upturning rocks
and getting really in there.
192
00:12:02,000 --> 00:12:04,480
But it's a very clever technique,
193
00:12:04,480 --> 00:12:07,280
cos you kind of sandwich
the net between your feet,
194
00:12:07,280 --> 00:12:08,600
then you use your hands
195
00:12:08,600 --> 00:12:10,920
to bring the vegetation
196
00:12:10,920 --> 00:12:15,400
and the sea bed into the net.
197
00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:19,080
Oh! Oh!
198
00:12:19,080 --> 00:12:20,920
She's got two big quans!
199
00:12:20,920 --> 00:12:23,320
It's just a river fish.
200
00:12:26,160 --> 00:12:27,800
Crab?
201
00:12:27,800 --> 00:12:31,080
'Living below China's official
poverty line, the Dai women
202
00:12:31,080 --> 00:12:34,160
'can't afford to overlook any
potential source of protein
in the river.'
203
00:12:36,520 --> 00:12:38,680
She said that you can eat this.
204
00:12:38,680 --> 00:12:41,720
It looks like some weird river
centipede thing!
205
00:12:41,720 --> 00:12:44,560
I was like, "Eurgh!"
206
00:12:46,280 --> 00:12:49,720
Ah! She's just decapitated it!
207
00:12:51,440 --> 00:12:53,800
"You can eat that," she said,
"it's delicious."
208
00:12:55,640 --> 00:12:58,320
They really have a respect
for the environment.
209
00:12:58,320 --> 00:13:00,040
They said they don't fish every day.
210
00:13:00,040 --> 00:13:03,920
Which means they give the river
a chance to recover,
211
00:13:03,920 --> 00:13:06,560
and the fish to thrive.
212
00:13:18,720 --> 00:13:22,280
For the time being, the women
are safe to fish in these waters.
213
00:13:22,280 --> 00:13:25,120
But this might not be
the case for much longer,
214
00:13:25,120 --> 00:13:29,560
because in recent years, many
of Yunnan's waterways have become
215
00:13:29,560 --> 00:13:33,160
contaminated with pollution from its
cities, less than 40 miles away.
216
00:13:43,160 --> 00:13:47,240
Back at Mei's house, we're going
to prepare our river catch.
217
00:13:47,240 --> 00:13:49,240
A lot of the fish are still alive.
218
00:13:51,520 --> 00:13:55,640
Did you see that?
Just with one knife cut,
219
00:13:55,640 --> 00:13:58,000
she guts it.
220
00:13:58,000 --> 00:14:01,440
And gets rid of the intestines,
and the belly,
221
00:14:01,440 --> 00:14:05,040
in one fell knife swoop, even though
the fish is so small.
222
00:14:08,560 --> 00:14:12,720
She just rips the head off, and the
tail off the sort of centipede.
223
00:14:12,720 --> 00:14:15,680
'I came to China to expand
my knowledge of Chinese cooking.
224
00:14:15,680 --> 00:14:19,800
'Learning how to gut a centipede
is certainly doing that.'
225
00:14:22,000 --> 00:14:25,240
She said women know how to cook,
226
00:14:25,240 --> 00:14:28,760
and also that the men wash
the dishes. I understood that bit.
227
00:14:32,320 --> 00:14:34,320
Men don't understand -
228
00:14:34,320 --> 00:14:35,760
they only know how to eat.
229
00:14:35,760 --> 00:14:37,280
SHE LAUGHS
230
00:14:44,440 --> 00:14:49,200
So I've got here the small river
fish and local garlic,
231
00:14:49,200 --> 00:14:52,640
wild garlic, some ginger,
232
00:14:52,640 --> 00:14:56,280
some small chillies,
the local chillies,
233
00:14:56,280 --> 00:14:58,520
and then there's
the Vietnamese mint,
234
00:14:58,520 --> 00:15:01,960
and then they've got here some
coriander as well,
235
00:15:01,960 --> 00:15:03,840
and then some spring onion.
236
00:15:03,840 --> 00:15:07,720
'I'm going to make a classic Dai
dish of fish cooked
in banana leaves.'
237
00:15:12,400 --> 00:15:15,000
Just finely chop it.
238
00:15:15,000 --> 00:15:18,840
My grandmother would always peel it,
and the Chinese believe that
239
00:15:18,840 --> 00:15:20,360
when you peel ginger,
240
00:15:20,360 --> 00:15:24,960
it becomes more heat-giving
property, more Yang. More fiery.
241
00:15:24,960 --> 00:15:29,040
If you keep the ginger skin on,
then it makes the dish more Yin,
242
00:15:29,040 --> 00:15:30,520
it's more cooling.
243
00:15:30,520 --> 00:15:35,720
'First, I put chopped ginger, garlic
and chilli onto a banana leaf,
244
00:15:35,720 --> 00:15:40,360
'closely scrutinized by my sous
chef, who is keen to offer tips.'
245
00:15:44,840 --> 00:15:49,440
She said, "Chop it,
chop all the herbs together
246
00:15:49,440 --> 00:15:52,360
"so it's really fine." I would have
just thrown it all together,
247
00:15:52,360 --> 00:15:54,840
but this is the way
they're used to doing.
248
00:15:54,840 --> 00:15:59,760
OK, so we put this
all on the leaf, like that.
249
00:15:59,760 --> 00:16:02,320
'Wrapping the food in a banana leaf
250
00:16:02,320 --> 00:16:05,480
'seals in moisture and flavour, much
like foil or oven-proof paper.'
251
00:16:05,480 --> 00:16:07,600
And then, you just tie it.
252
00:16:07,600 --> 00:16:12,160
'Being here with Mei and her family
takes me back to my childhood
253
00:16:12,160 --> 00:16:15,920
'under the supervision of two other
formidable family cooks -
254
00:16:15,920 --> 00:16:18,040
'my grandmother and mother.'
255
00:16:18,040 --> 00:16:23,040
So she's just securing the package
within some bamboo?
256
00:16:23,040 --> 00:16:27,720
'I'm planning to steam the fish,
but my sous chef has other ideas.'
257
00:16:27,720 --> 00:16:30,960
Oh, then that's how
they would normally cook it!
258
00:16:30,960 --> 00:16:34,880
She said it's tastier like this
than steaming it.
259
00:16:36,840 --> 00:16:40,920
She said, if you steam it,
it doesn't taste very good!
260
00:16:40,920 --> 00:16:45,760
'While it cooks for 20 minutes,
Mei offers me an appetiser.'
261
00:16:45,760 --> 00:16:50,080
This is a baby.
This is the centipede.
262
00:16:50,080 --> 00:16:52,480
'The water centipedes
she caught at the river have been
263
00:16:52,480 --> 00:16:55,600
'boiled in a spicy broth of
chillies, ginger and herbs.'
264
00:16:55,600 --> 00:16:58,840
She said, "Don't be afraid,
just eat it!"
265
00:17:04,480 --> 00:17:07,120
It's like texture like prawns.
266
00:17:07,120 --> 00:17:10,360
It's like river prawn texture,
river shrimp.
267
00:17:10,360 --> 00:17:12,960
It's not bad. It's not bad,
actually.
268
00:17:15,200 --> 00:17:16,840
'At the chief's house,
269
00:17:16,840 --> 00:17:21,760
'he's doing his bit to prove not all
men are useless in the kitchen.
270
00:17:21,760 --> 00:17:24,160
'He's making chicken soup
with ginger and chilli.'
271
00:17:24,160 --> 00:17:26,840
This dish is relatively simple.
272
00:17:26,840 --> 00:17:29,680
He's very smart not to do
anything complicated!
273
00:17:29,680 --> 00:17:32,520
But I think people don't realise,
when you're cooking at home,
274
00:17:32,520 --> 00:17:35,280
you should keep it
really nice and simple.
275
00:17:35,280 --> 00:17:39,360
'I'm using chilli and garlic to make
one of my favourite dishes -
276
00:17:39,360 --> 00:17:41,960
'chicken stir-fry with fresh herbs.'
277
00:17:41,960 --> 00:17:44,560
I'm just going to put my chicken in.
278
00:17:47,280 --> 00:17:48,880
Adding the marinade in there...
279
00:17:50,680 --> 00:17:55,000
..and I'm going to add
all my lovely herbs here.
280
00:17:55,000 --> 00:17:57,720
'This is what I love about Chinese
food. All you need is a wok,
281
00:17:57,720 --> 00:18:03,160
'a flame and fresh ingredients to
make a simple and delicious supper.
282
00:18:05,840 --> 00:18:09,640
'To go with the chicken,
I'm making a classic Yunnan dish.
283
00:18:09,640 --> 00:18:11,880
'Pineapple rice.'
284
00:18:13,920 --> 00:18:16,360
Ginger, a little bit of salt.
285
00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:20,440
Then we do our rice.
286
00:18:20,440 --> 00:18:23,800
'The key ingredient in this dish
is pre-cooked cold rice,
287
00:18:23,800 --> 00:18:29,400
'ideally a day old,
stir-fried in very hot oil.
288
00:18:29,400 --> 00:18:33,440
'To break up the clumps,
give the rice a good stir.'
289
00:18:33,440 --> 00:18:36,840
'Then add the pineapple
and fresh mint.
290
00:18:42,160 --> 00:18:44,800
'The wood fire gives it a lovely
smoky flavour.
291
00:18:44,800 --> 00:18:48,280
'With fresh local ingredients,
292
00:18:48,280 --> 00:18:51,120
'this is traditional village
cooking at its best.
293
00:18:51,120 --> 00:18:54,120
In Thailand, we say "hom".
What mean "hom"?
294
00:18:54,120 --> 00:18:56,360
Fragrant - if something smells good,
295
00:18:56,360 --> 00:18:58,840
we say "hom". "Hom"?
296
00:18:58,840 --> 00:19:02,680
Fragrant? We are ready.
297
00:19:02,680 --> 00:19:06,240
Just have to wait for Ching and the
rest of the women for the fish.
298
00:19:08,200 --> 00:19:09,920
Yeah, everyone is hungry.
299
00:19:09,920 --> 00:19:14,120
So this is the banana leaf
wrap, that's the fish.
300
00:19:14,120 --> 00:19:16,080
Ah, beautiful!
301
00:19:16,080 --> 00:19:17,880
ALL: Wow!
302
00:19:17,880 --> 00:19:19,400
She says it's very good!
303
00:19:19,400 --> 00:19:22,040
This is a soup the chief made,
304
00:19:22,040 --> 00:19:26,960
and this is pineapple rice.
305
00:19:29,760 --> 00:19:32,200
You know what you just ate? No.
It's a centipede.
306
00:19:32,200 --> 00:19:36,360
Oh! That's an interesting flavour!
307
00:19:36,360 --> 00:19:37,640
It's quite sweet.
308
00:19:37,640 --> 00:19:40,880
Yes, but I wouldn't
order it every day.
309
00:19:40,880 --> 00:19:42,880
THEY LAUGH
310
00:19:42,880 --> 00:19:44,920
Wow, this rice is delicious!
311
00:19:51,840 --> 00:19:54,120
So inspired by their use
of the local ingredients,
312
00:19:54,120 --> 00:19:55,840
fishing for your own fish.
313
00:19:55,840 --> 00:19:58,360
You can't get fresher than that.
Isn't that wonderful?
314
00:19:58,360 --> 00:20:00,920
They're really close to the earth.
Nature. Yes.
315
00:20:12,520 --> 00:20:15,840
'It's our second day
in Yunnan Province,
316
00:20:15,840 --> 00:20:18,840
'and we're enjoying a traditional
breakfast at the guesthouse.'
317
00:20:20,840 --> 00:20:22,720
Look at her outfit, so beautiful.
318
00:20:22,720 --> 00:20:25,320
That looks like some sort of
vegetable. It's fiddlehead fern.
319
00:20:26,400 --> 00:20:29,840
And I love it - chillies,
like in Thailand. Garlic, chillies.
320
00:20:29,840 --> 00:20:35,520
This is the most unusual breakfast
I've had in China, so far.
321
00:20:35,520 --> 00:20:38,080
This is supposed to be
the birthplace of tea,
322
00:20:38,080 --> 00:20:39,760
in the whole of China.
323
00:20:39,760 --> 00:20:42,840
So I'm excited to try
the pu-erh tea,
324
00:20:42,840 --> 00:20:44,440
cos that's
one of my favourite teas.
325
00:20:44,440 --> 00:20:47,280
It's awfully good for you,
it's very cleansing,
326
00:20:47,280 --> 00:20:49,320
and it helps to lower cholesterol,
327
00:20:49,320 --> 00:20:52,360
and helps prevent heart disease -
all these good things!
328
00:20:54,880 --> 00:20:58,360
Pu-erh tea, named after
a town in Yunnan, came to prominence
329
00:20:58,360 --> 00:21:03,720
when it was drunk by emperors during
the Tang Dynasty, 1,300 years ago.
330
00:21:05,560 --> 00:21:10,280
Today it's a global export industry
worth millions of pounds.
331
00:21:10,280 --> 00:21:14,320
Unlike most teas which can
lose their freshness soon
after production,
332
00:21:14,320 --> 00:21:17,960
pu-erh tea is fermented,
which improves the taste,
333
00:21:17,960 --> 00:21:20,160
texture and aroma.
334
00:21:21,560 --> 00:21:24,880
The most sought-after pu-erh teas
can take 30 years to mature
335
00:21:24,880 --> 00:21:28,560
and one cup of leaves
can reach up to £1,000.
336
00:21:35,840 --> 00:21:37,440
After a two-hour journey,
337
00:21:37,440 --> 00:21:40,320
I arrive at the tiny village
of Zhanglang,
338
00:21:40,320 --> 00:21:43,360
home to the Bulang minority, who
have been growing,
339
00:21:43,360 --> 00:21:46,560
tending and harvesting
tea for thousands of years.
340
00:21:49,960 --> 00:21:53,520
Oh look! There's some tea being
dried in the sun!
341
00:21:53,520 --> 00:21:56,200
It's a very underdeveloped
part of Yunnan.
342
00:22:01,840 --> 00:22:04,280
Wow, we're really high up
343
00:22:04,280 --> 00:22:08,320
and this
is a gorgeous little village!
344
00:22:08,320 --> 00:22:12,800
'Zhanglang is home to 45 families,
80% of whom make a living
345
00:22:12,800 --> 00:22:17,480
'from selling pu-erh tea
leaves to processing factories.
346
00:22:17,480 --> 00:22:21,880
'Shau-Li and Shau-Lu are two young
tea picker friends.'
347
00:22:21,880 --> 00:22:24,760
THEY SPEAK MANDARIN
348
00:22:25,840 --> 00:22:28,480
They started tea picking
when they were 11 and 12.
349
00:22:28,480 --> 00:22:29,480
So very young!
350
00:22:32,920 --> 00:22:35,760
They went to primary school,
there's a school in the village,
351
00:22:35,760 --> 00:22:38,040
but they left school about ten.
352
00:22:38,040 --> 00:22:40,840
And they've been tea
picking ever since.
353
00:22:40,840 --> 00:22:44,280
'We head outside to the plantation
so the girls can show me the ropes.'
354
00:22:45,920 --> 00:22:49,440
China's emerging free market economy
and state promotion of tea
355
00:22:49,440 --> 00:22:52,160
over the last ten years
resulted in an export boom.
356
00:22:53,840 --> 00:22:56,480
Many villages in Yunnan converted
their subsistence land
357
00:22:56,480 --> 00:22:58,880
into tea terraces.
358
00:23:03,400 --> 00:23:05,400
This is just, the size of it!
It's huge!
359
00:23:05,400 --> 00:23:09,280
I've never experienced a tea
plantation this big.
360
00:23:09,280 --> 00:23:11,160
'But an investor buying frenzy
361
00:23:11,160 --> 00:23:14,160
'led to lots of fake pu-erh teas
flooding the market.
362
00:23:14,160 --> 00:23:16,800
'And in 2008, the bubble burst,
363
00:23:16,800 --> 00:23:19,800
'and thousands of tea producers
went out of business.'
364
00:23:23,240 --> 00:23:26,680
They're super-fast!
365
00:23:26,680 --> 00:23:30,800
It's like a blink and then they've
gone through a whole bush.
366
00:23:30,800 --> 00:23:35,000
'But with their organic production
methods and indigenous skills,
367
00:23:35,000 --> 00:23:37,480
'passed down through
the generations,
368
00:23:37,480 --> 00:23:40,880
'the Bulang were able to brand
the authenticity of their pu-erh tea
369
00:23:40,880 --> 00:23:42,760
'and ride out the collapse.'
370
00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:45,840
So this is the best part,
371
00:23:45,840 --> 00:23:49,920
this is the part that they pick off
the leaves of the tea.
372
00:23:49,920 --> 00:23:53,160
First the tender shoot,
that's coming out,
373
00:23:53,160 --> 00:23:56,000
and the top two leaves -
that's the most prized bit.
374
00:23:56,000 --> 00:23:59,120
And it's because it has
more tea fragrance,
375
00:23:59,120 --> 00:24:01,040
as opposed to the older leaves.
376
00:24:01,040 --> 00:24:03,680
I've never cooked with these
pu-erh green tea leaves before,
377
00:24:03,680 --> 00:24:06,400
so I'm really excited.
378
00:24:06,400 --> 00:24:08,040
It's very tender...
379
00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:14,480
..slightly bitter,
but it's good for you!
380
00:24:14,480 --> 00:24:17,920
Cos actually, with tea,
in traditional Chinese medicine,
381
00:24:17,920 --> 00:24:20,600
they say that you must have
tea in your diet,
382
00:24:20,600 --> 00:24:23,200
because there's that
bitterness that we lack.
383
00:24:23,200 --> 00:24:25,440
You can get salt, sweet, sour,
384
00:24:25,440 --> 00:24:30,080
fiery, pungent flavours
from many different vegetables,
385
00:24:30,080 --> 00:24:32,720
and fruit, but you can't get
bitterness, that flavour profile.
386
00:24:32,720 --> 00:24:34,760
But you can get it from tea.
387
00:24:35,800 --> 00:24:38,800
'After a couple of hours, we're
heading back to prepare dinner
388
00:24:38,800 --> 00:24:41,240
'with the leaves we've picked.'
389
00:24:41,240 --> 00:24:43,520
I think the grandmother's
the culinary expert.
390
00:24:43,520 --> 00:24:47,200
She's looking at me
out of the corner of her eye!
391
00:24:47,200 --> 00:24:50,440
'Even though I've been
cooking for years,
392
00:24:50,440 --> 00:24:55,200
'it's always a little nerve-wracking
entering another woman's kitchen.'
393
00:24:55,200 --> 00:24:57,960
THEY SPEAK MANDARIN
394
00:24:57,960 --> 00:25:02,600
She was saying normally they cut
the chicken into smaller pieces,
395
00:25:02,600 --> 00:25:04,800
but I haven't cut it small enough!
396
00:25:08,920 --> 00:25:12,640
'For dinner, I'm making chicken,
infused with pu-erh tea leaves.
397
00:25:14,320 --> 00:25:16,840
'First I'm adding freshly-picked
leaves and chicken
398
00:25:16,840 --> 00:25:19,440
'to the hot oil in the wok.'
399
00:25:19,440 --> 00:25:22,520
I love it, it's really
woody and smoky
400
00:25:22,520 --> 00:25:25,480
from the wood fire underneath.
401
00:25:25,480 --> 00:25:29,200
'After stir-frying for about four
minutes, I add a cup of pu-erh tea,
402
00:25:29,200 --> 00:25:31,640
'made from sun-dried leaves.'
403
00:25:32,920 --> 00:25:34,720
I'm just going to pour the tea in,
404
00:25:34,720 --> 00:25:39,160
together with some of those leaves.
Now I'm just going to
405
00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:42,200
slowly let the chicken infuse with
the flavours of the tea.
406
00:25:42,200 --> 00:25:44,200
So a quick taste of the seasoning.
407
00:25:47,000 --> 00:25:50,720
You know that the infusion,
that soup base,
408
00:25:50,720 --> 00:25:54,920
has now become really sort of
bittersweet from the chicken.
409
00:25:54,920 --> 00:25:56,640
It's really delicious, actually.
410
00:25:57,680 --> 00:26:00,960
I quite like the idea of putting
some of these pea aubergine in!
411
00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:02,440
Just a handful.
412
00:26:03,720 --> 00:26:07,440
And what I might do is just add
another element of sweetness,
413
00:26:07,440 --> 00:26:11,440
and that is from the leaves
of the local pumpkin plant here.
414
00:26:12,560 --> 00:26:15,360
So I'm just going to toss that
with the pumpkin leaves,
415
00:26:15,360 --> 00:26:20,080
in this tea chicken broth,
and then, yeah! We're good to eat!
416
00:26:20,080 --> 00:26:22,240
'If you want to try
this recipe at home,
417
00:26:22,240 --> 00:26:25,800
'you can use green tea leaves
instead of pu-erh
418
00:26:25,800 --> 00:26:29,920
'and substitute the pea aubergines
with diced purple aubergine.
419
00:26:32,000 --> 00:26:37,240
'Now it just remains to be seen
what Grandma makes of my efforts.'
420
00:26:45,960 --> 00:26:48,520
She said, "The flavour is good!
Not bad!"
421
00:26:52,720 --> 00:26:54,720
HORN BEEPS
422
00:26:57,480 --> 00:27:01,080
'I'm on my way to Jinghong,
Yunnan's fastest growing city.
423
00:27:01,080 --> 00:27:05,480
'It's just 40 miles north of the
tiny mountain village of Zhanglang.
424
00:27:05,480 --> 00:27:07,520
'But it feels like a world away.'
425
00:27:09,360 --> 00:27:11,360
I actually didn't expect this.
426
00:27:11,360 --> 00:27:14,240
Like a mass construction site.
427
00:27:14,240 --> 00:27:17,120
And things are being
excavated like crazy.
428
00:27:17,120 --> 00:27:20,760
The construction is at
a frenetic pace.
429
00:27:20,760 --> 00:27:23,800
'I came to China expecting
it to have changed
430
00:27:23,800 --> 00:27:26,720
'since my last big trip,
23 years ago.
431
00:27:27,720 --> 00:27:30,240
'But this city is beyond what
I imagined -
432
00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:35,320
'brash, gaudy and jam-packed
with tourists.'
433
00:27:35,320 --> 00:27:39,960
It's sort of a Chinese Disneyland.
The whole place, Las Vegas.
434
00:27:39,960 --> 00:27:42,680
This place will really take off.
435
00:27:42,680 --> 00:27:45,200
'Cultural tourism has been
an integral part
436
00:27:45,200 --> 00:27:48,840
'of China's modernisation strategy
for 20 years.
437
00:27:51,240 --> 00:27:55,880
'Here in Jinghong, there are 13
different ethnic minorities,
438
00:27:55,880 --> 00:28:00,960
'and their colourful festivals
and foods draw Chinese
visitors from all over the country.
439
00:28:02,040 --> 00:28:04,640
As the city adapts to the
demands of tourism,
440
00:28:04,640 --> 00:28:07,880
I want to know
if these minorities have retained
441
00:28:07,880 --> 00:28:10,640
their distinct cultural identities.
442
00:28:10,640 --> 00:28:14,680
I'm in a suburb of Jinghong where
many Dai families have set up
443
00:28:14,680 --> 00:28:18,640
small cottage industries producing
traditional Yunnan food
444
00:28:18,640 --> 00:28:23,200
for the tourist trade, including
one of my absolute favourites.
445
00:28:23,200 --> 00:28:26,360
It's something I grew up with,
my mum was a great fan of it,
446
00:28:26,360 --> 00:28:30,400
she used to send me out, getting
fresh rice-noodle stir-fries,
447
00:28:30,400 --> 00:28:32,600
and it was a special treat.
448
00:28:32,600 --> 00:28:35,280
Is this it? Oh, it's huge, wow.
449
00:28:36,880 --> 00:28:39,320
Hello, Mr Ken, how are you?
450
00:28:39,320 --> 00:28:42,840
This is Mr Ai! How are you?
451
00:28:44,840 --> 00:28:47,280
Mr Ai and his wife used to
be farmers.
452
00:28:47,280 --> 00:28:49,560
Now they run a successful business
supplying noodles
453
00:28:49,560 --> 00:28:52,520
to some of the busiest tourist
restaurants in the city.
454
00:28:52,520 --> 00:28:55,320
And it's all done from their garage.
455
00:28:55,320 --> 00:28:57,800
This is made from rice flour?
456
00:28:57,800 --> 00:28:59,880
Yes, yes it is.
457
00:28:59,880 --> 00:29:03,080
They soak the rice first and then,
they grind it,
458
00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:05,880
and then move it to that big pot.
459
00:29:05,880 --> 00:29:08,200
After the rice is ground into flour,
460
00:29:08,200 --> 00:29:11,640
it's combined with water to
make dough.
461
00:29:11,640 --> 00:29:16,160
The exact quantities are a closely
guarded family secret.
462
00:29:16,160 --> 00:29:18,560
Finally the dough is passed
through a noodle extruder.
463
00:29:18,560 --> 00:29:21,160
It's almost an art,
the way she's handling it.
464
00:29:23,240 --> 00:29:27,640
See, none of it breaks, she knows
exactly at which point to cut it.
465
00:29:27,640 --> 00:29:30,760
I love it,
it's like putting out your laundry!
466
00:29:30,760 --> 00:29:35,840
It all has to do with the weight,
and she, she takes it,
467
00:29:35,840 --> 00:29:39,600
and she feels the weight of it,
it's too heavy on one side,
468
00:29:39,600 --> 00:29:42,360
and, I guess it's an art,
she's been doing it for a while.
469
00:29:42,360 --> 00:29:43,920
She's amazing.
470
00:29:43,920 --> 00:29:46,320
Mrs Ai invites me to have a go.
471
00:29:49,360 --> 00:29:51,280
It's not as even as hers!
472
00:29:55,000 --> 00:29:57,560
What a mess!
473
00:29:58,840 --> 00:30:01,280
No prizes for guessing
which one is mine.
474
00:30:03,200 --> 00:30:07,520
Rice-noodles have been established
fare in Yunnan for centuries.
475
00:30:07,520 --> 00:30:10,720
They're gluten-free with
a silky texture
476
00:30:10,720 --> 00:30:13,840
that absorbs flavours more
efficiently
477
00:30:13,840 --> 00:30:15,720
than the less spongy wheat noodles,
478
00:30:15,720 --> 00:30:18,480
which makes them
perfect for soups and stir-fries.
479
00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:20,880
SHE SPEAKS MANDARIN
480
00:30:20,880 --> 00:30:23,960
I would like to invite you
to have my noodles.
481
00:30:23,960 --> 00:30:26,440
I would be so happy!
482
00:30:26,440 --> 00:30:29,560
It's great to see Dai
migrants from the countryside
483
00:30:29,560 --> 00:30:33,120
making a successful living in the
city producing traditional food
484
00:30:33,120 --> 00:30:35,880
for the burgeoning tourist industry.
485
00:30:35,880 --> 00:30:39,400
The rice-noodles, apparently, have
been an old family recipe,
486
00:30:39,400 --> 00:30:44,280
they were selling it out of their
farm before, and they decided
487
00:30:44,280 --> 00:30:47,920
to be more entrepreneurial, which is
what has happened in China,
488
00:30:47,920 --> 00:30:49,840
you have these very small families,
489
00:30:49,840 --> 00:30:52,600
that are starting business
like this.
490
00:30:52,600 --> 00:30:56,680
This is really the base
of capitalism, and who knows,
491
00:30:56,680 --> 00:31:00,640
maybe in the next 30 years,
they'll be a gigantic corporation!
492
00:31:00,640 --> 00:31:02,040
HE LAUGHS
493
00:31:02,040 --> 00:31:04,400
Based on this family recipe!
494
00:31:04,400 --> 00:31:09,440
After breakfast, Mr Ai is keen to
show me around his house.
495
00:31:09,440 --> 00:31:13,360
Nice living room, a nice sofa...
496
00:31:13,360 --> 00:31:15,240
Oh, that's their son?
497
00:31:15,240 --> 00:31:17,760
THEY SPEAK MANDARIN
498
00:31:17,760 --> 00:31:20,120
He's very cute. How many bedrooms?
499
00:31:21,640 --> 00:31:23,800
Four. Four bedrooms.
500
00:31:23,800 --> 00:31:27,000
Wow, it's very, a very big house!
501
00:31:27,000 --> 00:31:29,800
HE SPEAKS MANDARIN
502
00:31:29,800 --> 00:31:32,640
He says his house is smaller
than others!
503
00:31:32,640 --> 00:31:36,760
Oh, really?
The neighbours' is much bigger!
504
00:31:36,760 --> 00:31:42,160
Business is clearly booming for
Mr Ai and things can only get better
505
00:31:42,160 --> 00:31:47,160
with £1.5 billion earmarked
for tourism development in Jinghong.
506
00:31:49,040 --> 00:31:50,520
There's an airport over there!
507
00:31:50,520 --> 00:31:53,240
You're kidding, wow!
That's the airport?
508
00:31:53,240 --> 00:31:54,920
Yes, it's under construction.
509
00:31:54,920 --> 00:31:58,560
So many tourists will come
and they need more airport
510
00:31:58,560 --> 00:32:00,960
to meet the demand.
511
00:32:00,960 --> 00:32:03,200
I see.
512
00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:08,160
This tourist city might have a
Disneyland feel to it.
513
00:32:08,160 --> 00:32:09,600
But from what I've seen today,
514
00:32:09,600 --> 00:32:13,760
the minorities here are really
embracing the opportunities it
offers.
515
00:32:13,760 --> 00:32:19,440
And it's not at the expense of their
cultural and culinary traditions.
516
00:32:19,440 --> 00:32:21,600
They have ambitions.
517
00:32:21,600 --> 00:32:25,680
They thought that their culture,
and everything that went with it,
518
00:32:25,680 --> 00:32:27,880
like their cuisine, would be
wiped out.
519
00:32:27,880 --> 00:32:32,200
And instead,
it's thriving like crazy!
520
00:32:35,080 --> 00:32:38,040
Nowhere is this more evident
than in the local market.
521
00:32:42,720 --> 00:32:45,480
This is exciting!
It's things I've never seen before!
522
00:32:49,640 --> 00:32:53,720
These local ladies are
so elegant with their gloves
523
00:32:57,320 --> 00:33:00,000
This excites me.
Wow, this is beautiful.
524
00:33:01,760 --> 00:33:04,440
It's our final night in Yunnan.
525
00:33:04,440 --> 00:33:06,880
Ching is about to join me
in Jinghong
526
00:33:06,880 --> 00:33:09,520
so I'm picking up some local
ingredients for dinner.
527
00:33:09,520 --> 00:33:11,960
Now, this is something
I really wanted to try here,
528
00:33:11,960 --> 00:33:16,080
especially in Yunnan because Yunnan
is famous for bamboo.
529
00:33:16,080 --> 00:33:19,320
So several bamboo
shoots would be nice.
530
00:33:20,960 --> 00:33:23,920
We have tried these noodles before,
531
00:33:23,920 --> 00:33:26,240
and I want to try
one of my favourites,
532
00:33:26,240 --> 00:33:28,720
these are rice-noodles as well,
533
00:33:28,720 --> 00:33:31,760
and they've actually been partially
cooked by steaming,
534
00:33:31,760 --> 00:33:35,720
and it's again
made with rice-flour and water.
535
00:33:46,280 --> 00:33:49,480
Oh, God, that does look like...
Looks like Las Vegas!
536
00:33:49,480 --> 00:33:52,760
All these bright lights, and look,
we've got Thailand over there.
537
00:33:52,760 --> 00:33:56,840
Since rice-noodles are a specialty
of Yunnan,
538
00:33:56,840 --> 00:33:59,480
I'm using them to make one of my
favourite dishes,
539
00:33:59,480 --> 00:34:02,920
stir fried rice-noodles with
broad beans and bamboo shoots.
540
00:34:04,640 --> 00:34:07,440
It's really important
when you cook rice-noodles
541
00:34:07,440 --> 00:34:09,320
to get the flavour of the wok right.
542
00:34:09,320 --> 00:34:12,280
I love that smoky gou wei,
it's so great.
543
00:34:12,280 --> 00:34:17,520
I'm going to add a tiny bit of this
lovely chilli oil, the garlic...
544
00:34:17,520 --> 00:34:19,600
Wow, that is fantastic.
545
00:34:19,600 --> 00:34:23,840
But what I'm going to do, I'm just
going to take it out for a second,
546
00:34:23,840 --> 00:34:26,800
and I'm going to
stir-fry the rest of the vegetables.
547
00:34:26,800 --> 00:34:30,160
I love it, you're a perfectionist
cook like my grandmother,
548
00:34:30,160 --> 00:34:32,520
she'd always cook each ingredient
perfectly
549
00:34:32,520 --> 00:34:36,560
and them bring them
back into the wok to warm through,
550
00:34:36,560 --> 00:34:40,680
and then add the seasoning, like you
know, the soy sauce, the vinegar...
551
00:34:40,680 --> 00:34:42,920
Well, good Chinese cooking
is in steps,
552
00:34:42,920 --> 00:34:45,160
what I mean by that is you
cook one thing
553
00:34:45,160 --> 00:34:46,960
and then you take it out.
554
00:34:46,960 --> 00:34:51,360
I'm putting in the bamboo shoots
and the broad beans,
555
00:34:51,360 --> 00:34:55,520
adding a little bit of
rice wine to that.
556
00:34:55,520 --> 00:34:57,400
Lovely soy sauce!
557
00:34:58,640 --> 00:35:03,280
There, we just let that
cook on quite a high temperature
558
00:35:03,280 --> 00:35:06,240
until it's sort of cooked and
wilted. It looks good.
559
00:35:06,240 --> 00:35:08,120
Oyster sauce.
560
00:35:08,120 --> 00:35:12,120
Yum! I love oyster sauce!
Am I allowed to try some?
561
00:35:14,440 --> 00:35:17,440
Mmmm! Oh, that's so good!
562
00:35:17,440 --> 00:35:20,000
That is delicious!
563
00:35:20,000 --> 00:35:24,400
This dish is really Yunnan for me,
especially with this rice-noodle,
564
00:35:24,400 --> 00:35:28,320
which is very unusual,
soft, and...
565
00:35:28,320 --> 00:35:30,360
Mmmm. It's really delicious.
566
00:35:32,320 --> 00:35:36,640
Ching, I don't know about you, but
even with all this incredible change
567
00:35:36,640 --> 00:35:39,840
in this place,
I don't think the food will change!
568
00:35:39,840 --> 00:35:42,680
Simply because of its
long tradition.
569
00:35:42,680 --> 00:35:46,200
They're so proud of their produce,
and for me,
570
00:35:46,200 --> 00:35:49,760
the way when I saw the tea farmers
farm their farm, and you know,
571
00:35:49,760 --> 00:35:53,640
if that tradition has been going for
thousands of years, I know for sure,
572
00:35:53,640 --> 00:35:58,400
tea and food go hand in hand, their
food will absolutely be preserved.
573
00:35:58,400 --> 00:36:00,520
It's so good. Cheers, Ken!
574
00:36:00,520 --> 00:36:02,360
To Yunnan, and its food,
and its people.
575
00:36:02,360 --> 00:36:06,200
And to pu-erh tea, and the beer.
Yes! Absolutely.
576
00:36:06,200 --> 00:36:08,600
And Disneyland. Disneyland!
577
00:36:16,000 --> 00:36:19,520
We're on the second stage
of our epic journey
578
00:36:19,520 --> 00:36:22,560
across China's vast
Western frontier,
579
00:36:22,560 --> 00:36:25,720
where few travellers dare
to venture.
580
00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:30,000
After travelling more than
3,000 miles northwest,
581
00:36:30,000 --> 00:36:32,760
we arrive in Kashgar in
Xinjiang province,
582
00:36:32,760 --> 00:36:36,080
which lies on the border with
Afghanistan and Pakistan.
583
00:36:37,480 --> 00:36:41,000
Kashgar is home to a veiled
minority, whose culture
584
00:36:41,000 --> 00:36:46,640
is at odds with the modernising
zeal of the ruling Han Chinese.
585
00:36:46,640 --> 00:36:51,560
Gosh, this looks like an ancient
medieval city we've come to.
586
00:36:51,560 --> 00:36:54,800
It's really on the far
fringes of China.
587
00:36:56,680 --> 00:37:00,680
This city was once a major
centre on the Silk Road,
588
00:37:00,680 --> 00:37:03,720
the 7,000 mile trade route
that connected
589
00:37:03,720 --> 00:37:08,480
China's Yellow River Valley with
India and the Mediterranean.
590
00:37:08,480 --> 00:37:11,440
Today, Kashgar is a deeply
divided city.
591
00:37:11,440 --> 00:37:16,080
In the old town, the Uyghurs, Turkic
Muslim people from central Asia,
592
00:37:16,080 --> 00:37:20,520
strive to preserve their ancient
culture and religious practices.
593
00:37:21,840 --> 00:37:26,560
While in the new city,
the recent influx of Han Chinese,
594
00:37:26,560 --> 00:37:29,800
who make up 92% of China's
population,
595
00:37:29,800 --> 00:37:33,520
build their skyscrapers with the
riches of the region's oil and gas.
596
00:37:36,440 --> 00:37:40,640
This is where the Far East
meets the Middle East.
597
00:37:42,520 --> 00:37:46,960
I don't feel like I'm in China,
I feel like I'm in Central Asia,
598
00:37:46,960 --> 00:37:48,200
but it's not China.
599
00:37:48,200 --> 00:37:51,040
It's where there have been
violent protests
600
00:37:51,040 --> 00:37:56,080
from disenfranchised Uyghurs
against the Han Chinese.
601
00:37:56,080 --> 00:37:59,760
And where tradition
and modernity are in open conflict.
602
00:38:03,040 --> 00:38:04,800
We've come to the market to find out
603
00:38:04,800 --> 00:38:08,320
if Uyghur culinary
and religious customs are surviving
604
00:38:08,320 --> 00:38:10,720
in this ethnically divided city.
605
00:38:13,600 --> 00:38:17,800
This is certainly the most exotic
place we've been to in China.
606
00:38:17,800 --> 00:38:20,680
We're met by our guide, Mohammed.
607
00:38:20,680 --> 00:38:23,560
Hi! Hello!
608
00:38:23,560 --> 00:38:24,960
Hey!
609
00:38:24,960 --> 00:38:28,240
Nice to meet you, I am Mohammed.
Welcome to Kashgar!
610
00:38:28,240 --> 00:38:31,360
Nice to meet you, Mohammed!
Just arrived?
611
00:38:31,360 --> 00:38:34,360
Yes, we did, yeah.
Ah, come on, I show you around.
612
00:38:34,360 --> 00:38:36,280
OK, thanks! It's a pleasure.
613
00:38:37,800 --> 00:38:42,040
1,000 years ago, this market would
have been overrun with caravans
614
00:38:42,040 --> 00:38:45,680
bringing goods in and out
of China on the Northern Silk Road.
615
00:38:47,120 --> 00:38:51,360
Today, with over 5,000 stalls,
it's jam packed with traders
616
00:38:51,360 --> 00:38:54,240
hot off the Karakoram Highway
from Pakistan.
617
00:38:55,320 --> 00:38:56,640
Raisins!
618
00:38:56,640 --> 00:39:02,320
These are apricot seeds, those
are sunflower seeds,
619
00:39:02,320 --> 00:39:04,720
people just mix a little bit of
everything,
620
00:39:04,720 --> 00:39:06,320
put it into their pocket.
621
00:39:07,320 --> 00:39:09,200
Mmm! It's delicious, yeah?
622
00:39:09,200 --> 00:39:11,320
Very good.
623
00:39:11,320 --> 00:39:14,680
You know apricot seed is
very good for men.
HE LAUGHS
624
00:39:14,680 --> 00:39:15,960
Really? Oh.
625
00:39:15,960 --> 00:39:18,760
I won't ask you why!
You eat this, you don't need Viagra.
626
00:39:18,760 --> 00:39:19,960
HE LAUGHS
627
00:39:23,000 --> 00:39:26,520
Wandering through the market,
it's striking to see one food
628
00:39:26,520 --> 00:39:30,160
that you'd be hard pressed to find
anywhere else in China.
629
00:39:30,160 --> 00:39:32,560
Ah, wow, this is what I wanted to
see. Wow! Delicious!
630
00:39:32,560 --> 00:39:34,880
Can we buy one? Yes!
631
00:39:36,440 --> 00:39:40,320
Here, naan bread is sold
on virtually every street corner.
632
00:39:40,320 --> 00:39:41,920
Mmmm!
633
00:39:41,920 --> 00:39:43,120
Oh, this I love.
634
00:39:43,120 --> 00:39:45,800
It's sesame seeds with onion? Salt?
635
00:39:45,800 --> 00:39:47,560
Yeah, they just put those on top.
636
00:39:47,560 --> 00:39:50,440
2,000 years ago,
the nomadic cattle herders
637
00:39:50,440 --> 00:39:53,520
travelling through this region,
638
00:39:53,520 --> 00:39:56,400
relied on this bread to sustain
them in the desert.
639
00:39:56,400 --> 00:39:59,560
Today,
Uyghurs consider it to be sacred.
640
00:39:59,560 --> 00:40:01,080
Bread means life.
641
00:40:01,080 --> 00:40:04,080
So you can't throw bread away? It's
like throwing away your life?
642
00:40:04,080 --> 00:40:08,680
Never! Even if it's too old,
I'd rather take it to somebody,
643
00:40:08,680 --> 00:40:10,800
to just feed their sheep, you know?
644
00:40:10,800 --> 00:40:13,240
With this.
I never throw it into the rubbish.
645
00:40:13,240 --> 00:40:18,520
Naan bread is traditionally baked in
large outdoor tandoor ovens.
646
00:40:18,520 --> 00:40:21,960
The hot clay walls of the oven bake
the bread crispy on the bottom
647
00:40:21,960 --> 00:40:25,720
but leave it soft in the centre.
648
00:40:25,720 --> 00:40:28,440
But the skill lies in getting it to
stick onto the oven wall.
649
00:40:28,440 --> 00:40:30,640
OK. Oh, God!
650
00:40:33,840 --> 00:40:38,680
Good, good, good, good, good, good,
good, just push it, oh no!
651
00:40:38,680 --> 00:40:43,680
It's fallen down, oh! Ching!
Oh, my God, Ching, oh no!
652
00:40:43,680 --> 00:40:45,960
Where is it? Oh, no, my bread!
653
00:40:45,960 --> 00:40:51,000
Oh, God!
God, I dread to do this now.
654
00:40:51,000 --> 00:40:52,800
Just slap it on, Ken. OK.
655
00:40:55,640 --> 00:40:57,280
Ah!
656
00:40:57,280 --> 00:40:58,920
SHE LAUGHS
657
00:41:01,040 --> 00:41:03,160
There it is?
658
00:41:03,160 --> 00:41:06,840
Is it? It's not exactly like his.
659
00:41:06,840 --> 00:41:11,680
Wow, there's mine. It's a new
take on a calzone.
660
00:41:13,280 --> 00:41:15,400
THEY LAUGH
661
00:41:15,400 --> 00:41:17,520
Poor Ching!
662
00:41:17,520 --> 00:41:20,240
Hey, this could be a new
innovation here,
663
00:41:20,240 --> 00:41:24,120
this style of bread,
it's a new way of eating!
664
00:41:26,640 --> 00:41:31,800
In 2009, the Chinese government
began a £300 million clear up
665
00:41:31,800 --> 00:41:37,400
of Kashgar, demolishing mosques,
markets and centuries-old houses
666
00:41:37,400 --> 00:41:40,160
in the Uyghur dominated old city.
667
00:41:40,160 --> 00:41:42,800
How many people still
live around here?
668
00:41:42,800 --> 00:41:48,040
About 200,000, more than half of the
population of the Kashgar city
669
00:41:48,040 --> 00:41:50,200
are living in the old city.
670
00:41:50,200 --> 00:41:52,120
It's really packed now!
671
00:41:52,120 --> 00:41:54,760
Is it because it's convenient?
672
00:41:54,760 --> 00:41:58,400
Because they've been living in this
town for many, many generations,
673
00:41:58,400 --> 00:42:00,920
about 1,000 years and,
you know, they grew up here,
674
00:42:00,920 --> 00:42:04,120
they like their home, you know
most of the houses are inherited
675
00:42:04,120 --> 00:42:06,560
from their, you know,
parents, or grandparents.
676
00:42:06,560 --> 00:42:10,240
Everybody knows each
other in the neighbourhood.
677
00:42:10,240 --> 00:42:11,880
Right.
678
00:42:11,880 --> 00:42:15,680
Many Uyghurs are trying hard to
resist assimilation
679
00:42:15,680 --> 00:42:17,560
with the Han Chinese.
680
00:42:17,560 --> 00:42:20,600
And one way they're doing it is
through food.
681
00:42:20,600 --> 00:42:23,440
One thing us
Cantonese don't eat much of is lamb.
682
00:42:23,440 --> 00:42:28,720
But in Kashgar, it's both
a ceremonial and an everyday meat.
683
00:42:28,720 --> 00:42:32,920
And every Kashgari knows
there's only one place to buy it.
684
00:42:43,280 --> 00:42:46,200
Thousands of people
swarm into Kashgar every Sunday
685
00:42:46,200 --> 00:42:48,240
for the livestock market.
686
00:42:53,280 --> 00:42:57,440
It's a disorientating
cacophony of animals,
687
00:42:57,440 --> 00:42:59,920
car horns and bartering traders.
688
00:42:59,920 --> 00:43:02,240
COW MOOS
689
00:43:02,240 --> 00:43:05,480
Today is particularly busy
because Noruz is coming up,
690
00:43:05,480 --> 00:43:09,920
an ancient Persian festival
celebrated by Uyghurs,
691
00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:11,760
which marks the coming of spring.
692
00:43:11,760 --> 00:43:16,600
And lamb is as essential to that
as turkey is to a British Christmas.
693
00:43:19,240 --> 00:43:21,520
With the market so busy,
694
00:43:21,520 --> 00:43:25,400
we're relieved to have Mohammed's
friend Wahub to show us around.
695
00:43:25,400 --> 00:43:29,040
This animal market has been
happening for over 2,000 years.
696
00:43:29,040 --> 00:43:30,080
Wow!
697
00:43:32,320 --> 00:43:38,000
It's crazy, I feel like we've
stepped back in olden times.
698
00:43:38,000 --> 00:43:40,640
It's like,
back to the time of Genghis Khan!
699
00:43:40,640 --> 00:43:45,280
We're meeting the number one
roast lamb chef in Kashgar.
700
00:43:45,280 --> 00:43:47,720
He's got an order
for a new year's celebration
701
00:43:47,720 --> 00:43:50,960
and is here to find the best sheep.
702
00:43:50,960 --> 00:43:52,440
Hello!
703
00:43:52,440 --> 00:43:55,640
This is one of the best quality
sheep. Three years old.
704
00:43:55,640 --> 00:43:58,280
Three years old,
you can tell by the teeth?
705
00:43:58,280 --> 00:43:59,560
Yes.
706
00:43:59,560 --> 00:44:02,200
And why would you buy
the three-year-old, is it different?
707
00:44:02,200 --> 00:44:05,480
Yes, if it's younger,
it's better quality.
708
00:44:05,480 --> 00:44:09,000
The taste of sheep is more
delicious.
709
00:44:12,680 --> 00:44:17,160
If the sheep's ear is bigger,
it's much better.
710
00:44:17,160 --> 00:44:18,800
Really? For taste?
711
00:44:18,800 --> 00:44:22,120
For taste and for breeding.
712
00:44:23,080 --> 00:44:27,360
We're keen to know how the chef is
going to prepare and roast the lamb,
713
00:44:27,360 --> 00:44:30,760
so he invites us to his kitchen to
observe an age-old tradition.
714
00:44:33,520 --> 00:44:34,920
Hello!
715
00:44:36,280 --> 00:44:38,720
This is the sheep?
That he's going to slaughter?
716
00:44:38,720 --> 00:44:43,040
He's going to slaughter it here,
it must be done by Halal way.
717
00:44:43,040 --> 00:44:45,800
It it's not,
it's not possible to eat.
718
00:44:45,800 --> 00:44:49,400
Before he slaughter,
he must read the Koran.
719
00:44:51,840 --> 00:44:54,160
He's reading the Koran and
slaughtering.
720
00:44:54,160 --> 00:44:58,360
39-year-old Osmanjan has
been in the business for 15 years,
721
00:44:58,360 --> 00:45:01,200
learning his skill from his father.
722
00:45:01,200 --> 00:45:05,400
Very quick. That was fast, huh?
723
00:45:05,400 --> 00:45:07,840
After the sheep is slaughtered,
724
00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:13,240
air is pumped into the skin to make
it easier for the chef to remove it.
725
00:45:15,040 --> 00:45:16,840
He's a real expert.
726
00:45:16,840 --> 00:45:20,000
He is a real expert.
727
00:45:20,000 --> 00:45:23,240
The Muslim people,
we don't eat the blood.
728
00:45:23,240 --> 00:45:26,400
That's why you don't save it?
We don't save it.
729
00:45:26,400 --> 00:45:30,040
Cos we keep the blood,
chicken's blood, pig's blood,
730
00:45:30,040 --> 00:45:32,160
and we make little, like rice cakes.
731
00:45:32,160 --> 00:45:33,560
A sausage.
732
00:45:33,560 --> 00:45:36,840
And we grill it,
it's actually quite good. No? No.
733
00:45:36,840 --> 00:45:37,880
It's reassuring to see
734
00:45:37,880 --> 00:45:40,680
that a centuries old Islamic
culinary tradition,
735
00:45:40,680 --> 00:45:42,680
is still going strong.
736
00:45:42,680 --> 00:45:45,320
It's like an eggy, starchy wash?
737
00:45:45,320 --> 00:45:49,160
Yes, and also
when it's roasted, it's not burned.
738
00:45:49,160 --> 00:45:51,920
Oh, protects it from the burning.
739
00:45:51,920 --> 00:45:55,080
I mean, it's not what I expected it
to look like. No, no.
740
00:45:55,080 --> 00:45:57,800
THEY SPEAK UYGHUR
741
00:46:04,880 --> 00:46:08,640
Grandfather,
and grandfather's father.
742
00:46:08,640 --> 00:46:11,040
For many generations.
743
00:46:11,040 --> 00:46:13,360
And his two uncles.
744
00:46:15,560 --> 00:46:17,400
He's the number five.
745
00:46:17,400 --> 00:46:18,600
Wow!
746
00:46:29,560 --> 00:46:31,440
He said a prayer.
747
00:46:31,440 --> 00:46:35,680
He says this at the start, and it
helps with a successful ending.
748
00:46:38,680 --> 00:46:40,760
I think it's beautiful,
it's like a ritual.
749
00:46:40,760 --> 00:46:42,480
Yes, like that, yes.
750
00:46:48,240 --> 00:46:50,440
The chef has asked me
751
00:46:50,440 --> 00:46:53,160
to make a dish to complement
the lamb for the new year's feast.
752
00:46:53,160 --> 00:46:56,800
I've cooked a lot of places
in my time but this, this beats it!
753
00:46:58,440 --> 00:47:03,080
I want to use local ingredients but
with my Chinese style of cooking.
754
00:47:03,080 --> 00:47:05,880
There's the chef's daughters,
over there.
755
00:47:05,880 --> 00:47:07,480
They look like him!
756
00:47:07,480 --> 00:47:10,840
I'm making my version of a very
famous Uyghur dish called polo.
757
00:47:10,840 --> 00:47:17,120
This is rice pilaf flavoured with
onion, fine strips of carrot,
758
00:47:17,120 --> 00:47:19,720
dried fruit and nuts.
759
00:47:19,720 --> 00:47:23,960
Add a little bit of water
just boiling here,
760
00:47:23,960 --> 00:47:28,080
which I'll flavour with some saffron
that I got at the market.
761
00:47:28,080 --> 00:47:30,760
The saffron should
go into hot water.
762
00:47:30,760 --> 00:47:33,840
This helps release the aroma that
will infuse the dish.
763
00:47:33,840 --> 00:47:37,600
I'm also adding a pinch of salt
and a teaspoon of cumin.
764
00:47:37,600 --> 00:47:39,680
That'll be flavourful.
765
00:47:39,680 --> 00:47:42,520
Cumin isn't a spice
we use much in Chinese cooking
766
00:47:42,520 --> 00:47:44,560
because it's got such
a strong flavour.
767
00:47:44,560 --> 00:47:48,160
But it's very popular
in Middle Eastern dishes.
768
00:47:49,360 --> 00:47:52,640
When the oil is hot in the wok,
add two chopped onions
769
00:47:52,640 --> 00:47:54,720
and stir fry for about a minute.
770
00:47:54,720 --> 00:47:58,400
Then add the carrots,
salt and pepper
771
00:47:58,400 --> 00:48:01,240
and stir-fry for another
couple of minutes.
772
00:48:01,240 --> 00:48:03,240
I'm just putting in some celery,
773
00:48:03,240 --> 00:48:05,880
trying to use everything that
it's in their resources.
774
00:48:05,880 --> 00:48:07,320
That's local, yeah.
775
00:48:07,320 --> 00:48:10,800
I'm going to cover that, because
that will maximise the temperature.
776
00:48:10,800 --> 00:48:15,040
This should be left to
simmer for around eight minutes.
777
00:48:15,040 --> 00:48:21,360
I have here some lovely pistachio
and apricot seeds, and some raisins.
778
00:48:21,360 --> 00:48:26,400
We're really here at the crossroads
of east and west.
779
00:48:26,400 --> 00:48:31,480
And this is very Middle Eastern,
using all these nuts.
780
00:48:32,480 --> 00:48:34,480
Next, the rice goes in.
781
00:48:34,480 --> 00:48:41,440
Now this rice is a little bit like
short grain, we'll just warm it up.
782
00:48:41,440 --> 00:48:46,480
What I'll add is my liquid of water
and saffron,
783
00:48:46,480 --> 00:48:50,280
a little bit of salt and spices.
784
00:48:50,280 --> 00:48:54,600
Finally add the pistachio nuts,
apricot kernels raisins
785
00:48:54,600 --> 00:48:56,840
and chopped celery leaves.
786
00:49:06,240 --> 00:49:09,040
It's different, it's good different,
the taste is good,
787
00:49:09,040 --> 00:49:11,080
and it looks pretty and colourful.
788
00:49:11,080 --> 00:49:13,960
OK, thank you, Chef.
789
00:49:13,960 --> 00:49:19,560
The onions are really sweet, the
rice is cooked through and tender,
790
00:49:19,560 --> 00:49:22,520
the raisins in there
really add a sweetness, yeah,
791
00:49:22,520 --> 00:49:25,920
and the apricot kernels,
a good crunch! Good texture.
792
00:49:37,880 --> 00:49:41,160
Wow! That's amazing!
793
00:49:42,760 --> 00:49:44,000
Wow!
794
00:49:46,760 --> 00:49:51,240
That's great!
It looks so ceremonial.
795
00:49:52,320 --> 00:49:54,160
After a few embellishments,
796
00:49:54,160 --> 00:49:57,920
the lamb is ready to go to
the new year's feast.
797
00:49:57,920 --> 00:50:02,320
Noruz is the most important
date on the Uyghur calendar,
798
00:50:02,320 --> 00:50:05,600
so it's an honour to be able to
deliver the lamb
799
00:50:05,600 --> 00:50:09,200
and my rice polo to a family
celebration.
800
00:50:09,200 --> 00:50:12,080
So, Ken, we go to the men,
the men's party,
801
00:50:12,080 --> 00:50:14,240
and, Ching, you go to the ladies'
party here.
802
00:50:14,240 --> 00:50:16,920
Oh, OK, so it's separate.
It's separate.
803
00:50:16,920 --> 00:50:20,160
OK. Well that's nice, isn't it?
But that's their culture.
804
00:50:20,160 --> 00:50:22,240
So it's something I'm not used to.
805
00:50:22,240 --> 00:50:25,240
So is this a tradition that men
and women eat separately?
806
00:50:25,240 --> 00:50:29,000
Yes, that's one of our traditions
Is that every day, or...?
807
00:50:29,000 --> 00:50:31,040
No, once a year.
808
00:50:31,040 --> 00:50:34,120
Once a year?
Other times they eat together?
809
00:50:34,120 --> 00:50:35,400
They eat together, yes.
810
00:50:35,400 --> 00:50:38,960
OK, so how will
the women have the lamb?
811
00:50:38,960 --> 00:50:43,000
They bring some big plates,
and just take it to the ladies' part.
812
00:50:46,680 --> 00:50:49,880
All the food today was made by all
the women, by all, uh,
813
00:50:49,880 --> 00:50:56,120
her mum-in-law's family, and the
sisters, they don't question,
814
00:50:56,120 --> 00:50:59,880
you know, that's the way they have
lived for many, many years.
815
00:50:59,880 --> 00:51:05,000
I'd like to wish them
all a very prosperous new year!
816
00:51:05,000 --> 00:51:06,680
HE SPEAKS UYGHUR
817
00:51:20,880 --> 00:51:24,560
We've left the new year's
celebration behind to go to
Mohammed's house
818
00:51:24,560 --> 00:51:29,880
where we've been invited to his
family's Noruz festivities.
819
00:51:29,880 --> 00:51:31,640
Mohammed, is this it?
820
00:51:31,640 --> 00:51:33,280
Yes, we have arrived, yeah.
821
00:51:33,280 --> 00:51:37,520
Once again we're entering the domain
of a formidable group of women.
822
00:51:37,520 --> 00:51:41,560
This is my mother. This is my wife.
Hello. Hello.
823
00:51:41,560 --> 00:51:45,760
This is my uncle's wife.
This is my younger sister.
824
00:51:49,520 --> 00:51:52,600
It's going to be a real privilege to
cook with these women.
825
00:51:52,600 --> 00:51:56,400
Particularly as men are usually
banned from their kitchen.
826
00:51:58,280 --> 00:52:00,520
Wow, Mohammed, your wife is
really quick,
827
00:52:00,520 --> 00:52:03,560
really good at making the
noodles, huh?
828
00:52:03,560 --> 00:52:06,440
Everything is prepared by hand,
it tastes better, huh?
829
00:52:06,440 --> 00:52:08,840
I agree. I agree.
830
00:52:08,840 --> 00:52:12,280
The Uyghurs,
like Italians, are pasta specialists
831
00:52:12,280 --> 00:52:15,320
and claim to make 72 different
varieties.
832
00:52:15,320 --> 00:52:19,360
Today the ladies are making two
family favourites.
833
00:52:19,360 --> 00:52:21,400
So the thickness should be
all the same.
834
00:52:21,400 --> 00:52:23,840
Mohammed's wife is showing me
835
00:52:23,840 --> 00:52:25,840
how to make laghman,
836
00:52:25,840 --> 00:52:28,480
the famous hand-pulled
noodles of this region.
837
00:52:28,480 --> 00:52:30,920
SHE SPEAKS MANDARIN
838
00:52:30,920 --> 00:52:33,600
Oh, OK!
839
00:52:33,600 --> 00:52:37,480
I said that this is quite a thick
noodle, and she said,
840
00:52:37,480 --> 00:52:41,120
"No, it goes through another stage,
we pull it to make it thinner."
841
00:52:41,120 --> 00:52:43,120
It's a two stage process.
842
00:52:43,120 --> 00:52:48,040
First we roll the dough, made of
flour and water, into long sausages.
843
00:52:49,720 --> 00:52:53,480
Then we coil them around the
circular base of an oiled tin
844
00:52:53,480 --> 00:52:56,440
and leave them
to rest for half an hour.
845
00:53:07,160 --> 00:53:10,000
Well, the dough is ready now.
846
00:53:16,600 --> 00:53:19,280
Meanwhile, Mohammed's mother is
making chuchura,
847
00:53:19,280 --> 00:53:21,720
which is a dumpling soup.
848
00:53:21,720 --> 00:53:23,720
So this is for the dumpling,
849
00:53:23,720 --> 00:53:26,600
how long has she been making
these dumplings?
850
00:53:26,600 --> 00:53:28,800
THEY SPEAK UYGHUR
851
00:53:31,520 --> 00:53:33,360
About 50 years!
852
00:53:33,360 --> 00:53:38,400
I can just tell by the way she
moves, she's, she's very skilled.
853
00:53:38,400 --> 00:53:42,360
First she rolls out the dough,
which is made from egg whites
854
00:53:42,360 --> 00:53:46,200
rather than yolks
so that she can stretch it out more.
855
00:53:46,200 --> 00:53:49,960
Instead of having a very big thing
to roll, she rolls it,
856
00:53:49,960 --> 00:53:51,600
like, on one thing.
857
00:53:52,600 --> 00:53:56,880
This is how Italians also do pasta.
858
00:53:56,880 --> 00:53:59,800
I paid my way through university
by giving lessons
859
00:53:59,800 --> 00:54:02,120
in how to make Italian pasta.
860
00:54:04,520 --> 00:54:07,240
Now, I feel like the student.
861
00:54:07,240 --> 00:54:09,680
Side by side, wow!
862
00:54:09,680 --> 00:54:11,360
It's so clever
863
00:54:11,360 --> 00:54:15,080
This was worth the trip out here,
to see this.
864
00:54:15,080 --> 00:54:16,800
Absolutely.
865
00:54:16,800 --> 00:54:20,080
Once Mohammed's mother has cut
the dough into small squares,
866
00:54:20,080 --> 00:54:24,880
we roll them into parcels, which are
then stuffed with alfalfa sprouts.
867
00:54:27,120 --> 00:54:31,400
Oh, they're just like tortellini!
That's a vegetable tortellini!
868
00:54:33,240 --> 00:54:35,280
Take a little bit...
869
00:54:37,720 --> 00:54:41,440
Fold it into itself, like that.
Like that?
870
00:54:42,600 --> 00:54:47,000
As the honorary male cook, I want to
know if I've passed the test
871
00:54:47,000 --> 00:54:49,800
with the women of the house.
872
00:54:49,800 --> 00:54:51,240
THEY SPEAK UYGHUR
873
00:55:00,640 --> 00:55:02,560
Ken is OK though.
874
00:55:02,560 --> 00:55:06,120
I think she's telling him off!
875
00:55:06,120 --> 00:55:08,960
You should come in the kitchen
more often!
876
00:55:08,960 --> 00:55:10,760
She says she was really impressed,
877
00:55:10,760 --> 00:55:14,480
she said, "Our men should come to
the kitchen too!"
878
00:55:14,480 --> 00:55:17,120
Aw, yeah I agree! All men!
879
00:55:17,120 --> 00:55:19,720
It needed no translation,
it needed no translation!
880
00:55:19,720 --> 00:55:21,320
THEY LAUGH
881
00:55:21,320 --> 00:55:24,480
The dumplings need to
boil for five minutes
882
00:55:24,480 --> 00:55:26,480
until they become translucent.
883
00:55:26,480 --> 00:55:29,960
Meanwhile, I head outside to find
out how Mohammed's aunty
884
00:55:29,960 --> 00:55:32,920
is getting on with
the rest of the meal.
885
00:55:32,920 --> 00:55:37,400
So this is just the sauce for the
noodles, right? Yeah.
886
00:55:37,400 --> 00:55:39,120
There's no meat in this one?
887
00:55:39,120 --> 00:55:41,680
There is meat in it! Lamb in it.
888
00:55:41,680 --> 00:55:44,520
Oh, OK, lamb everywhere!
889
00:55:48,000 --> 00:55:52,360
I'm helping Mohammed's aunt finish
the laghman noodles.
890
00:55:52,360 --> 00:55:55,480
The first step is to pull each
length of the noodle
891
00:55:55,480 --> 00:55:57,520
onto an oiled board.
892
00:55:57,520 --> 00:55:58,760
Just pull.
893
00:55:58,760 --> 00:56:03,040
She's kind of working
the dough, spinning it.
894
00:56:03,040 --> 00:56:08,320
Then she winds
the noodles around her hands.
895
00:56:08,320 --> 00:56:12,040
And now for the most difficult part,
stretching them out.
896
00:56:13,400 --> 00:56:16,640
It looks like she's playing cat's
cradle! Wow!
897
00:56:16,640 --> 00:56:18,640
Wow!
898
00:56:20,240 --> 00:56:24,760
Then they go into a wok of boiling
water for three minutes.
899
00:56:24,760 --> 00:56:26,760
Uh, she took it like that.
900
00:56:28,400 --> 00:56:30,200
SHE GIGGLES
901
00:56:30,200 --> 00:56:33,680
This is a long piece of noodle!
902
00:56:35,720 --> 00:56:42,000
Bang it, pull it, bang it, slap
it against the board, that's it!
903
00:56:42,000 --> 00:56:44,360
Ta-da!
904
00:56:47,360 --> 00:56:49,240
It's the end of our time in Kashgar
905
00:56:49,240 --> 00:56:53,280
and our exploration of China's
ethnic minority cuisines.
906
00:56:53,280 --> 00:56:56,440
Please. Thank you.
We'll start with the noodles.
907
00:56:57,720 --> 00:56:59,240
This is the one you pulled?
908
00:56:59,240 --> 00:57:03,160
Mm, this I really,
really am in love with the noodles.
909
00:57:03,160 --> 00:57:05,600
It really is springy and delicious,
910
00:57:05,600 --> 00:57:07,760
it's really satisfying
making your own noodles!
911
00:57:10,080 --> 00:57:14,680
China is so diverse,
so many different people,
912
00:57:14,680 --> 00:57:19,000
different ideas, different
religions, different cultures.
913
00:57:19,000 --> 00:57:23,280
The Dai minority, the Bulang
minority, through food that's,
914
00:57:23,280 --> 00:57:28,520
that's their identity, then now
the Uyghurs, that's their culture,
915
00:57:28,520 --> 00:57:30,800
just right on the plate right there.
916
00:57:30,800 --> 00:57:34,440
It says it all. It's magnificent!
917
00:57:34,440 --> 00:57:40,200
Mohammed, to you, and your whole
family, thank you very much!
918
00:57:41,280 --> 00:57:46,440
What I've learned and discovered
by coming to Kashgar and Yunnan,
919
00:57:46,440 --> 00:57:49,880
is I think it's deepened
my understanding about China.
920
00:57:49,880 --> 00:57:53,280
Even though they're within the
Chinese nation,
921
00:57:53,280 --> 00:57:56,120
they haven't lost their local
traditions,
922
00:57:56,120 --> 00:57:58,160
which I think is very important.
923
00:58:02,080 --> 00:58:05,080
'Next time,
we journey to Guangdong province...'
924
00:58:05,080 --> 00:58:07,440
This is where my culinary soul is.
925
00:58:07,440 --> 00:58:10,800
'..to explore the many
faces of Cantonese cuisine...'
926
00:58:10,800 --> 00:58:13,080
Oh, my God, alligators!
927
00:58:13,080 --> 00:58:16,480
'..and culture
in the city where my parents met.'
928
00:58:16,480 --> 00:58:19,720
They're going to sing my mother's
favourite aria.
929
00:58:19,720 --> 00:58:21,960
Very touched.
930
00:58:21,960 --> 00:58:25,120
Before we complete our journey
across China
931
00:58:25,120 --> 00:58:28,280
with an emotional pilgrimage to our
ancestral homes.
932
00:58:28,280 --> 00:58:32,480
My food memory started here and
I think I have come a full circle.
933
00:58:45,200 --> 00:58:48,160
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