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♪♪♪
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♪♪♪
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- [Pierre Berton]:
This was my home town
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and my father's town before me.
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It's a quiet place.
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A few stores, a restaurant,
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300, maybe 400 people.
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Hard workers, most of them.
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♪♪♪
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On the main street, the old men
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sit on the porch of the hotel
in the sunshine
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and they talk about
the old days,
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the good old days.
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♪♪♪
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The park is always full of kids.
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♪♪♪
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After a rain, there are always
plenty of puddles
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to sail boats in.
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But I must tell you that this
town where I spent my childhood
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isn't really like
any other town in the world.
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This is Dawson City,
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the center
of the Klondike Gold Rush.
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History will never see its
like again.
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♪♪♪
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Every summer when the seeds
of fireweed drifted
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across the Valley
of the Yukon River,
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we kids used to roam through
these decaying buildings.
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Some of them had been locked
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and barred
for almost half a century.
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00:03:02,747 --> 00:03:05,315
You could buy anything in Dawson
City in its heyday,
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I remember
my father telling me.
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Anything from oysters
to opera glasses.
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You could buy a dance hall queen
for her weight in gold,
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00:03:13,802 --> 00:03:15,760
and one man did.
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His name was Chris Johanson
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and he lived on Whiskey Hill.
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For a child, Dawson was a bit
like a giant play-yard
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full of enormous dollhouses,
each one crammed
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with the trinkets
of the stampede.
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Hundreds of picks and shovels,
old magazines,
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bedsteads, pictures,
furniture, bric-a-brac.
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We used to play
locomotive engineer
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on the old
Bonanza Creek Railway,
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almost on every spot where
George Washington Carmack
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picked up the nugget
that started it all.
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♪♪♪
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We played steamboat captain too.
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These deserted sternwheelers
were part of a fleet of,
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oh, there'd be 250
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that steamed up the Yukon
in the stampede days.
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Floating palaces,
brightly painted,
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loaded with champagne,
and dancing girls, and gold.
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♪♪♪
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Today, there isn't a single
one left on the River.
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Most of the men are gone
with the steamboats.
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Of the tens of thousands
who came here,
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only a handful found
the gold they were seeking.
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And yet very few, I think,
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regretted the journey
to Dawson City.
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For the great stampede was
the high point of their life.
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♪♪♪
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The winter of 1897,
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beyond mountains,
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2000 miles north
from civilization,
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the cry was "« Gold "».
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All over the world, a million
people laid plans to go.
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A hundred thousand
actually set out.
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But the going was so hard,
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the way so weary
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that more than half turned back.
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My father was one of those
who struggled on.
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Scarcely any of these men
were miners;
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most were white-collar workers.
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My father had just
graduated from university,
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in Civil Engineering.
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All them had one idea:
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they were on their way to
the Klondike to shovel up gold,
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and they were going to be rich
beyond the dreams of avarice.
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♪♪♪
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The Chilkoot Pass.
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This scene above all others
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remained in my father's mind
to his dying day.
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Even when his memory
began to fail,
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this spectacle remained.
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♪♪♪
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You had to pack a ton of goods
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00:06:22,730 --> 00:06:24,862
up this terrible 45-degree slope
of sheer ice,
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a hundred pounds at a time,
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00:06:26,777 --> 00:06:29,650
over and over again,
a year's outfit.
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00:06:29,737 --> 00:06:31,652
Without that, the Mounties
wouldn't let you
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00:06:31,739 --> 00:06:33,654
enter the Yukon.
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You couldn't stop to rest,
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or it might be hours
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before they'd let you back
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into that endless human chain.
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♪♪♪
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At the top, a city
of provisions.
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70 feet of snow fell
that winter,
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00:06:52,890 --> 00:06:55,240
and by spring, there were
seven such cities,
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layer upon layer,
buried beneath it.
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00:06:58,026 --> 00:07:01,464
But the persistent ones
dug out their supplies
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00:07:01,551 --> 00:07:03,988
and sledded off
down the mountain slopes
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on the next lap
of the great adventure.
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♪♪♪
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Here on Lake Bennett at the head
of the Yukon River,
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20,000 men
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built 7000 homemade boats.
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Few of them had ever handled
a saw or a hammer before.
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They cut the planks by hand
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and then they used Oakum
to caulk the seams,
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00:07:40,416 --> 00:07:43,332
or pitch boiled from spruce gum.
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Sometimes, they even
used their own underwear.
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♪♪♪
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And then the word,
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the river's clear of ice,
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and on June 3rd, 1898,
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the fantastic armada
was launched.
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The mountains behind,
Dawson ahead,
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500 miles to the north.
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Clear sailing
all the way downriver
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to the gold fields.
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♪♪♪
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Most of them were too late.
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They found almost
everything staked:
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valleys, hills,
even moose pastures.
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00:08:39,344 --> 00:08:42,217
Here was Eldorado Creek,
the richest of all.
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31 claims,
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00:08:44,872 --> 00:08:47,396
each worth more than a million.
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But all owned by men
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who'd been on hand
18 months before.
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All the land was being torn up
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by these early birds,
as they worked feverishly
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with sluice box and rocker.
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For the newcomers, nothing.
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Only a few got claims
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00:09:09,374 --> 00:09:11,028
and these soon came to realize
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00:09:11,115 --> 00:09:12,769
that you just
couldn't scoop up the gold
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00:09:12,856 --> 00:09:14,858
by the shovelful.
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00:09:17,992 --> 00:09:20,603
You had to burn your way down
through the permafrost,
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30, 40, perhaps 100 feet.
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00:09:23,998 --> 00:09:27,001
♪♪♪
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As you went, you kept testing
for that elusive,
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glittering ribbon of soil,
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known as the pay streak.
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♪♪♪
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It might take ten months
of backbreaking toil
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before you knew
how rich you were.
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♪♪♪
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But the gold was there.
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And Dawson City grew on it.
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♪♪♪
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Here on a wedge of frozen swamp,
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not far from the Arctic Circle,
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a weird and exotic city
sprang out,
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a city big enough
to hold 30,000 souls.
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For one demented summer,
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it was mecca.
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♪♪♪
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And here too,
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ground of another kind
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was being staked out
by the early birds,
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who would never need
to swing a pick handle
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to fill their pockets.
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♪♪♪
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40,000 customers
poured into the waiting town
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from all over the world:
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00:11:01,878 --> 00:11:04,228
Australia, Greece,
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00:11:04,315 --> 00:11:06,753
every province in Canada,
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every state in the Union.
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They had names
like Calamity Jane,
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Diamond Tooth Gertie,
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Swiftwater Bill
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and the Evaporated Kid.
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And if a man was shrewd enough
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or cold-blooded enough,
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a fortune could be made
in a week.
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There were no price ceilings:
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a fresh egg cost 2$,
a glass of milk, 5$,
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a pint of champagne, 30$.
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For Dawson was feeding on gold.
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♪♪♪
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Gold poured in from the creeks
on mules' backs
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while the whole town watched.
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Watched and waited.
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00:12:07,857 --> 00:12:10,425
My father used to talk
about Big Alec Macdonald
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who had 29 mules,
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00:12:12,383 --> 00:12:14,646
each loaded with a hundred
pounds of gold.
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He'd been broke two years before
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00:12:16,997 --> 00:12:19,042
until he bought
a million-dollar claim
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00:12:19,129 --> 00:12:21,479
for a sack of flour
and a side of bacon.
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00:12:21,566 --> 00:12:23,699
He lived to eat off
gold plate
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00:12:23,786 --> 00:12:26,093
and ride a carriage
down the Champs EÉlysée.
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00:12:26,180 --> 00:12:29,226
But when he died,
back here in the Klondike,
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he was broke again.
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00:12:32,577 --> 00:12:35,189
That was the way it went,
down the hatch.
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You could buy
wine enough fill a bathtub.
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00:12:38,496 --> 00:12:41,935
And if you were so inclined,
and some were,
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00:12:42,022 --> 00:12:44,415
you could pay a girl
to take a bath in it.
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You could do anything,
if you had enough gold.
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00:12:48,768 --> 00:12:51,771
♪♪♪
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Paradise Alley
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00:13:16,491 --> 00:13:19,450
ran right behind
the main street.
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00:13:19,537 --> 00:13:22,453
Every residence
had a name on the door.
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Names like Montreal Marie,
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00:13:24,760 --> 00:13:26,762
Spanish Jeanette,
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00:13:26,849 --> 00:13:28,808
Golden Gut Flossie.
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00:13:28,895 --> 00:13:31,506
For these ladies,
Dawson imported
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00:13:31,593 --> 00:13:34,378
fashions from Paris.
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00:13:34,465 --> 00:13:37,033
Nothing but the best.
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00:13:37,468 --> 00:13:40,863
♪♪♪
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00:13:45,433 --> 00:13:47,739
With all its gaudy glitter,
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00:13:47,827 --> 00:13:50,830
Dawson was never a lawless town.
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00:13:50,917 --> 00:13:52,875
The Mounties saw to that.
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00:13:52,962 --> 00:13:54,877
They might overlook the sins
of the flesh,
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00:13:54,964 --> 00:13:56,792
but they didn't sanction
anything else.
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00:13:56,879 --> 00:13:59,273
Nobody could pack a gun
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00:13:59,360 --> 00:14:02,319
and all the saloons
had to close on Sunday.
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00:14:03,320 --> 00:14:05,235
The Sabbath was so holy
219
00:14:05,322 --> 00:14:07,455
that one man was actually fined
220
00:14:07,542 --> 00:14:10,850
for chopping his own wood
on the Lord's Day.
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00:14:12,112 --> 00:14:14,375
You know it's almost
inconceivable
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00:14:14,462 --> 00:14:17,378
that the law should have been
maintained so firmly
223
00:14:17,465 --> 00:14:19,771
in a city nourished
by that metal
224
00:14:19,859 --> 00:14:21,817
which is said to be
at the root of all evil.
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00:14:22,252 --> 00:14:25,777
♪♪♪
226
00:14:31,392 --> 00:14:33,307
And yet in that crazy summer,
227
00:14:33,394 --> 00:14:35,309
no major theft,
228
00:14:35,396 --> 00:14:37,398
not a single murder.
229
00:14:38,921 --> 00:14:40,488
All the more remarkable
230
00:14:40,575 --> 00:14:42,142
because there were other
passions to keep in check,
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00:14:42,229 --> 00:14:44,187
national passions.
232
00:14:44,622 --> 00:14:47,669
♪♪♪
233
00:14:49,366 --> 00:14:51,238
Dawson was an American town
234
00:14:51,325 --> 00:14:53,631
on Canadian soil,
235
00:14:53,718 --> 00:14:55,459
subject to the Queen's laws,
236
00:14:55,546 --> 00:14:57,331
but populated almost entirely
237
00:14:57,418 --> 00:15:00,943
by strangers
from the United States.
238
00:15:01,030 --> 00:15:02,814
And so the great festive day
239
00:15:02,902 --> 00:15:04,599
was a combination
of Dominion Day
240
00:15:04,686 --> 00:15:06,688
and the Fourth of July.
241
00:15:07,950 --> 00:15:10,387
It was a perfect moment
for a celebration.
242
00:15:10,474 --> 00:15:13,260
The last stragglers
had attained their mecca.
243
00:15:13,347 --> 00:15:16,916
The miners on the creek had
finished their winter's work.
244
00:15:17,003 --> 00:15:20,789
The carnival had reached
its climax.
245
00:15:21,311 --> 00:15:24,314
♪♪♪
246
00:15:26,838 --> 00:15:28,492
The daylight hours were endless.
247
00:15:28,579 --> 00:15:30,973
There was plenty
of dynamite to explode
248
00:15:31,060 --> 00:15:32,975
and release pent-up emotions.
249
00:15:33,062 --> 00:15:35,021
The reverberations were so great
250
00:15:35,108 --> 00:15:37,632
that the very dogs
fled the town.
251
00:15:39,982 --> 00:15:42,985
♪♪♪
252
00:16:10,578 --> 00:16:13,450
What were they celebrating,
really?
253
00:16:19,674 --> 00:16:22,503
More than Independence Day,
I think.
254
00:16:22,590 --> 00:16:24,548
More than Dominion Day.
255
00:16:24,984 --> 00:16:27,987
♪♪♪
256
00:16:40,434 --> 00:16:43,219
Each man had a great deal
to think about.
257
00:16:43,306 --> 00:16:46,701
All were at least
2000 miles from home,
258
00:16:46,788 --> 00:16:48,833
some were 10,000.
259
00:16:51,401 --> 00:16:54,274
On the face of it, they had very
little to celebrate.
260
00:16:54,361 --> 00:16:57,538
Only a few had got any gold
261
00:16:57,625 --> 00:17:00,628
and very few of these were able
to hang onto it.
262
00:17:00,715 --> 00:17:03,283
And yet, after the long months
on the passes
263
00:17:03,370 --> 00:17:05,285
and the lakes and the rivers,
264
00:17:05,372 --> 00:17:07,416
they found themselves seized
265
00:17:07,503 --> 00:17:09,550
by a curious mixture
of feelings,
266
00:17:09,637 --> 00:17:12,596
not the least of which
was a strange elation.
267
00:17:15,643 --> 00:17:18,253
It's hard to believe,
but after coming all this way,
268
00:17:18,340 --> 00:17:21,736
many of them never bothered
to look for gold at all.
269
00:17:21,823 --> 00:17:23,738
It was as if somehow,
270
00:17:23,825 --> 00:17:27,220
they'd already found
what they were seeking.
271
00:17:27,655 --> 00:17:30,658
♪♪♪
272
00:18:01,819 --> 00:18:04,866
♪♪♪
273
00:18:09,305 --> 00:18:11,742
You know, when we were playing
house in Dawson,
274
00:18:11,829 --> 00:18:15,268
it never occurred to us
that any of this meant anything.
275
00:18:15,355 --> 00:18:18,488
That one of these chairs
for instance,
276
00:18:18,575 --> 00:18:20,403
might be the very one
277
00:18:20,490 --> 00:18:23,058
in which Silent Sam Bonnifield
was sitting
278
00:18:23,145 --> 00:18:26,105
the night he lost
the M & E Hotel in a poker game.
279
00:18:31,153 --> 00:18:33,112
It never occurred to us
280
00:18:33,199 --> 00:18:36,027
that each Victorian picture
told its own story,
281
00:18:36,115 --> 00:18:38,291
that these two paintings
282
00:18:38,378 --> 00:18:40,945
had once been worth
more than gold itself
283
00:18:41,032 --> 00:18:43,905
to a man who traded
half his claim for them.
284
00:18:43,992 --> 00:18:47,038
[dog barking]
285
00:18:47,126 --> 00:18:49,911
No ghosts of the past
returned to haunt us,
286
00:18:49,998 --> 00:18:52,392
here in these silent rooms.
287
00:18:54,350 --> 00:18:57,353
[children playing]
288
00:18:59,007 --> 00:19:01,575
- Get out of there.
289
00:19:05,274 --> 00:19:08,234
- Let's go. Come on!
290
00:19:10,584 --> 00:19:13,195
- [Pierre Berton]:
I don't suppose
the next generation
291
00:19:13,282 --> 00:19:15,415
gives the old days much
of a thought either.
292
00:19:15,502 --> 00:19:18,505
For the Klondike
is only a beginning to them
293
00:19:18,592 --> 00:19:20,376
and not an end,
294
00:19:20,463 --> 00:19:23,118
as it was to the men of 1898.
295
00:19:24,859 --> 00:19:27,470
I think my father
understood that.
296
00:19:27,557 --> 00:19:30,778
He found no gold,
but he lived here 40 years
297
00:19:30,865 --> 00:19:33,520
and I know he would have been
content to die here,
298
00:19:33,607 --> 00:19:36,653
like some of his cronies.
299
00:19:37,001 --> 00:19:40,396
♪♪♪
300
00:19:43,051 --> 00:19:44,879
But that was not to be.
301
00:19:44,966 --> 00:19:48,491
He knew that each of us
had his own Chilkoot to conquer,
302
00:19:48,578 --> 00:19:50,580
of another kind.
303
00:19:52,234 --> 00:19:54,758
And so he left Dawson City
behind
304
00:19:54,845 --> 00:19:57,805
and I don't imagine
that I shall ever see it again.
305
00:20:02,244 --> 00:20:04,681
I don't suppose things
have changed greatly.
306
00:20:04,768 --> 00:20:06,683
I know that all the men
307
00:20:06,770 --> 00:20:08,685
still sit in the sunlight
on the main street
308
00:20:08,772 --> 00:20:10,818
and talk of the good old days.
309
00:20:12,036 --> 00:20:15,039
And the good times, the times
that are remembered,
310
00:20:15,126 --> 00:20:18,478
usually turn up
to be the hardest times.
311
00:20:18,565 --> 00:20:21,872
No the moment when the nugget
was found in the pan,
312
00:20:21,959 --> 00:20:24,092
but those bitter hours
on the passes
313
00:20:24,179 --> 00:20:26,834
and the long days of the trail.
314
00:20:27,269 --> 00:20:30,054
♪♪♪
315
00:20:41,457 --> 00:20:44,460
The Gold Rush was
something like a war.
316
00:20:44,547 --> 00:20:47,202
It caused many casualties.
317
00:20:47,289 --> 00:20:49,944
But those who survived it
and learned from it
318
00:20:50,031 --> 00:20:52,599
were strangely ennobled.
319
00:20:57,560 --> 00:21:00,171
These men found their Eldorado.
320
00:21:00,607 --> 00:21:03,610
♪♪♪
321
00:21:09,746 --> 00:21:11,792
Well, that's my home town,
322
00:21:11,879 --> 00:21:14,185
Dawson City.
323
00:21:17,101 --> 00:21:19,974
Subtitles:
www.sovo-tech.com
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00:21:20,061 --> 00:21:23,107
♪♪♪
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