All language subtitles for the.new.look.s01e08.1080p.web.h264-successfulcrab

I've just learned that Carmel
Snow is on her way to Paris.

- Are you listening?
- I... I can hear you, yeah.

Harper's Bazaar must want her to
find the next big name in fashion.

- We must invite her to see your work.
- No, no, no.

Listen, Christian. Whoever
Carmel Snow chooses to write about

will become the most important
story in postwar couture.

- We must court the press.
- I don't have it yet.

The-The piece, the definitive
piece that will set the tone

for the entire collection.

I must find it.

You've already done enough to
provide her with a tantalizing preview.

Let's find the models first.

- We can't wait for that.
- I need to see my clothes

on an actual female form.

While you delay, she'll
meet with all the designers.

Balmain, Balenciaga, Lelong.

And not only with your
friends. But also your enemies.

- I don't have any enemies.
- Make some.

It's incredible. You tracked
down Montrachet '22 Grand Cru.

Of course.

- Nothing less for our reunion, Carmel.
- Ah.

When you called me to tell me
that you were living in Switzerland...

I knew I had to come
to hear your story.

You have no idea how much it
means to me that you're here.

Oh, darling.

Now, tell me truthfully...

how are you?

- I survived.
- Mm-hmm.

I don't know if I'm all right.

But the war...
Ah, it's finally over.

But your atelier
is still closed.

I don't think I'll
ever open it again.

Oh, poo-poo.

Don't you utter another
word of that nonsense.

You closed your doors, while
others like, uh, Lelong stayed open.

I don't care to disparage
the actions of Lelong or...

anyone else.

I just knew I had
to stop everything.

You have been so traumatized.

- What is that?
- Hmm?

That, right there.
Who gave that to you?

Oh. I make them.

No.

Oh, uh... The ones I make
are very fake and very beautiful.

They're even more
beautiful than the real ones.

Well, you see, Paris needs you.

I can't go back to Paris.

My... enemies...
I have enemies...

Have spread lies about me.

Oh, good God. That's outrageous.

Rumors. Terrible lies that I
collaborated with the enemy.

Don't believe them.

I would never.

I will get Paris to
welcome you back.

We need you. I need you.

And I will not stop until you
are back where you belong.

You're coming back to Paris.

Yes.

- Hello.
- Hello.

- Magnificent.
- Yes.

Hmm.

Perhaps we could try her
in day dress number 47.

- Mm-hmm.
- I'm desperate to be part

of your first collection,
Monsieur Dior.

- I dream of it.
- Uh-huh.

Hmm. So you're currently
modeling for Madame Grès?

- Yes.
- Mmm.

But Monsieur Dior's designs at
the Louvre took my breath away.

Thank you very much.

Um... please tell Madame
Grès that I say, "Hello."

Uh... Sorry.

Is she currently
with another house?

- Patou. She's working for Patou.
- Oh.

Sorry, but no. Sorry.

So it's no?

- She's with Ricci.
- Taken.

- But... Please.
- Taken.

Schiaparelli.

You may go. Rochas.

Lanvin. Fath. Molyneux. Lelong.

She's perfect. We could
steal her from Balmain.

Would you, um,

please give Monsieur
Balmain my kindest regards?

Really?

Well, we have no
more models to see.

Find some more.

How? You've rejected
all 22 of the finest models

- I could ever bring you.
- They're all taken.

I know you're sensitive about
offending the other designers,

Lelong in particular.

I am too, especially
after we both left.

But... have you spoken to him?

No. But, Christian, we
have to push forward.

No, I'm not going to start
poaching from my colleagues

and leave them scrambling.

- There must be other options.
- Yes.

Make some enemies
and then take from them.

Or do you prefer I put an ad in the
paper asking for out-of-work models only?

Why not?

- Because it's absurd.
- No.

- It's a brilliant idea.
- Hmm.

See? I knew you would
come up with something. Go.

Let me get that.

It's okay, Papa. I can do it.

Don't forget the seeds
for the herb garden.

See how good you are? Hmm?

Your brothers never cared
for the garden like you do.

Christian did.

Not like you.

Monsieur Friedman. It's so good to
see your store so well stocked again.

I am wondering if you can tell me
where the basil seeds are hiding.

- Just behind the stalls.
- Oh.

Catherine?

It's so good to see you again.

You look so
different than before.

You two know each
other? Where from?

Catherine was working
at the repatriation center

when I was looking for Tania.

She t-tried to help me.

You... You still
have her picture?

Yes.

I... I fear she...
she's gone forever.

If you hear anything,
please let me know.

- What have you got there?
- Nothing.

You're looking a bit haggard.

Perhaps you should
lay off the sleep aids.

I will if you will.

Our supply is running
low, by the way.

You're only supposed to take
them for sleep, not during the day.

- Lately, all you do is sleep in.
- Get more.

Go for a walk, why don't you?
Take André. Enjoy the day.

You're always
looking out for me.

How's our little
boutique coming along?

Well, I met with Carmel
Snow the other day.

She's looking for the next
big story, and I plan to be it.

You-You told her
about me, did you?

- About my involvement?
- Yes, of course.

When she gets to Paris, she's
gonna lay the foundation for our return.

And with the new
perfume we're producing,

well... she's not going to
find a more interesting story

than the rebirth of Coco Chanel.

Where are you going now?

Hmm. I have a meeting.

Yeah, thanks. Sure.
I... I'd love to come.

- Thank you so much for inviting me.
- Not today, Elsa.

- But we're partners.
- This is serious business.

Snow may be in our corner,

but... the Wertheimers
are still trying to ruin us.

This meeting is with
someone who can help.

- Who?
- I d-don't have time to explain.

Just find André.

And... clean yourself
up, for God's sake.

Ask anyone in New York,

and they will tell you that I am known
for wearing nothing but Balenciaga.

I'm flattered. I thought
you only wore Chanel.

I was just with
her in Switzerland.

It is tragic how they're
treating her here in Paris.

I count Mademoiselle
Chanel as a friend,

but the situation she finds herself in
is one of her own making, I'm afraid.

Really?

I thought for sure that you would
be able to come to her defense.

There was a time
when I could have.

But from what I've gathered
from friends in the government,

the evidence is... overwhelming.

She will need to answer
for... for her actions.

It's a terrible tragedy.

Yes.

Parisian couture.

It could influence how hundreds
and thousands of ordinary women

dress and dream and live.

Doesn't have to just
be for wealthy Parisians.

American industry could
bring French couture

to the entire world.

That sounds ambitious.

Fashion needs a new
leader. A figurehead.

I want it to be you, Cristóbal.

Your designs, your talent.

All of your talents,

it demands a much larger canvas.

I have never enjoyed
the press, nor the stardom.

Nor the spotlight.

What I do, I do for myself.

So, the world will have
to find another savior.

Come visit me in America
for a week, maybe two.

I will introduce you to all

our most influential buyers.

I will put you on the cover
of Harper's for the first time,

and I guarantee
you, not for the last.

There are others better
suited. Pierre Balmain, for one.

Well, I'm seeing
Mr. Balmain today.

Oh. Voilà.

What about Dior?

I heard that Marcel Boussac
is financing him. Is that true?

That is true.

I saw pictures of two of his
dresses at the Théâtre de la Mode.

I sense great potential.

Christian is not
your man either.

And why not?

His talent.

His ambition is to create
dresses for only 30 women.

- Really?
- Yes.

That's intriguing.

Yes. An experiment of sort

to create the most beautiful
clothing ever created.

Well, Dior is meticulous.
Uh, in that way, we are similar.

Oh.

Monsieur Boussac
dreams big. He always has.

He won't want Christian Dior
to be so exclusive for very long.

It is not up to
Boussac. It is up to Dior.

And what does Dior think will happen
after he's finished his little experiment?

Why don't you ask him yourself?

Great idea.

Ladies, you will put
your names down.

Ladies, ladies, please.

Oh, excuse me. Pardon.

Dior.

Stop pushing. Stop
pushing. Please, ladies.

What... What... What
on earth is going on here?

Apparently, our
advertisement went out

the same day the Ministry
decided to close the brothels.

This is the result.

Well, you have your
work cut out for you.

Hardly. None of
them are suitable.

- Oh, look, they are beautiful.
- Please!

- None of them are suitable. Please.
- Hello.

- L-Lady, please. Ladies, please.
- Yes, you're very beautiful.

What about her?

- Yeah.
- Who?

The mousy one?

Yes, just bring her up.

They must all be seen.

One at a time.

- Monsieur Dior! What are you doing?
- Uh-huh?

There is a line of prostitutes
in front of your house.

Yes. Not-Not-Not to
worry, Monsieur Boussac.

I came to check on my investment,
and this is what is happening?

Carmel Snow is in Paris.
She could visit at any moment.

Yes, but we're not ready yet, so,
uh, she won't be allowed inside.

But this is outside.

- Please.
- No, no. Listen...

you never get a second chance
to make a first impression. Hmm?

Now please, I implore
you, Christian, get to work.

Marie-Thérèse.

Where are you from, my dear?

Um, here. Paris.

- Paris, yes? Your whole life?
- Yes.

And did you stay during the war?

Yes, uh, I stayed.

Oh, that must have
been difficult, yes?

I had no choice. I had
to work in... in a brothel.

I'm sorry. That was
such a stupid question.

But now... tell me...

have you ever
thought about... Please.

- Have you ever thought about modeling?
- No.

Well... Please excuse...
You have beautiful features.

I think you'd be a perfect
fit. Will you join us?

Um, yes...

- um, if it's a job. I... I need a job.
- Okay.

- Monsieur Dior?
- Hmm?

Please, um... don't
expect too much from me.

I... I'm not a real model.

Oh, my dear. Look.
Please, look. See?

Can you see? Magnificent.

Please say "yes."

It would be my honor to
have you wear my clothes.

I got your message,
Herr Dincklage.

Look at this. "Agent Westminster"?
Really? Are you trying to get me caught?

- I wanted to make sure you'd respond.
- By threatening me? Are you crazy?

But then, you do
look a bit harried.

Hiding out in dark corners.

Small rooms must not agree
with you being on the run.

Are you gloating?

How does it feel not to have
the vast might of the Reich

behind your every
deception and whim?

It feels unfamiliar. Unwelcome,
as you can remember.

You abandoned me.

It was flee or be captured.

The Resistance
raided the church.

Someone tipped them off.

Any idea who that
might have been?

Of course not. What do you want?

I need to lay low.
Rest for a while.

Need help sorting out my travel
documents, and I need cash.

Really? Is that all?

I'm using an alias now.

Peter Lang, silk merchant.

Could be your
business associate.

No. It feels too risky to be in
contact with you in any way.

Coco, my situation is desperate.

- I have my own problems.
- Well, I can help you.

How? By dragging me
back into the shadows?

The Wertheimers have a
stranglehold on my company.

I'm trying to convince Harper's to
write an article about my perfume.

So Agent Westminster
must remain buried.

If anyone finds out I went on
that mission for Schellenberg,

it will be the end of me.

Well, I have every
reason to keep that secret.

What about documents?

Paperwork?

You think that there are any
that can tie me to the Nazis?

I have a contact here who
worked for Schellenberg.

She's helped me build my cover.

Um, I can have her look into it.

Well, reassure me of that,
and then I'll see about money.

Follow me back to the hotel.

- Do you like that?
- Mmm.

Well, that's what's
known as Swiss jazz.

Ooh!

It's Coco, but who is she with?

Will wonders never cease?

Elsa.

- Looking splendid, as always.
- Hi.

You know him?

Yes, I do, as a matter of fact.

Actually owes me rather a lot of
money. I wonder if he'll remember.

André, this is an
old friend of mine.

Ah, pleased to make
your acquaintance. I'm...

He's Spatz.

- Stop, Elsa.
- He's a German, in spite of his accent.

This is Peter Lang.

Well, we'll all catch up later.
Peter and I have things to discuss.

Yes. Let's catch up later.

I don't know.

What do you think it means?

Well, what did Carmel
Snow say exactly?

Um, she was very cold...
surprisingly not very talkative.

But, um, she came to my atelier,

so I prepared a very nice lunch
and showed her my drawings.

And then what?

Then she took them.

Without saying anything?

Not a word. She thanked me for
lunch, but nothing about my designs.

She just took them.
Has to be good, right?

She took them.

Why would she take
them if she didn't like them?

W-Why wouldn't she say she
liked them, if she liked them?

Oh, I don't know.

Maybe she didn't like them

and took them so she wouldn't
have to tell me she didn't like them.

Well, I-I don't
know what it means.

I hate Carmel Snow. Hate her.

Elsa knows everything. She
could turn us in and play the hero.

Impossible.

Forget that you care for her.

For all we know, the British enlisted
her while they had her in custody.

- She could be working for MI6.
- No. No, no, no.

And how can you be sure?

Don't try to poison
me against Elsa.

You know I'm right, Coco.

No, you must stop!

Elsa is a danger that we share.

Leave her alone.

You can, uh, talk
to me, you know.

Your troubles, I see
them in your eyes.

Poor Friedman.

Tania's lost.

At the repatriation center,
he asked if I knew her.

Did you?

People just want answers.

Simple answers.

There is no such thing.

Yes.

I knew her.

She was sweet and brave.

There's nothing in this world
that is your fault, Catherine.

You must believe me.

Are you crying, Papa?

Sometimes we have to.

Well, maybe they can help
me, uh, get my company back.

Tread carefully.

The tide of the war may soon
be changing in favor of the Allies.

You don't want to end up like me.
Sorry that I ever got into bed with them.

Hello.

Christian, I was napping
earlier, and I dreamt you

and your brothers were here.

I think it's important
that we're all together.

I want you all to come visit.

Well, that sounds lovely.

- Come tomorrow.
- No, I can't come tomorrow.

Oh, come, just for a day.

I... Look, I would love to,
but I'm in the middle of work.

I have to see this fashion
writer for my business.

Your business. You're too busy.

I just want it to be as
good as it possibly can be,

and I don't have any time for
anything else right now, Papa. That's all.

Why is your business so
important? Family is important too.

Go see your brother.
Bring him here.

No... I don't have
the time, Father.

Your business, your
business, your business.

You should never have
started your own business,

not when you had a
secure job with Lelong.

I mean, have you learned
nothing from my mistakes?

Opportunity should
never trump stability.

Go and see your brother.

Catherine is in no shape to
do it, or I would have asked her.

You're the only one.

He wants me to go and
visit my brother Bernard.

Why?

I mean, it doesn't matter why.

I can't do it. I
can't go anywhere.

I am well aware of that.

Ai, Jacques. Don't be
short with me, please.

I think I will go
out for a drink.

Will you join me?

I wish I could. I can't.

Of course.

I don't want to be
another burden.

I know you have to design.

It's not just the designing.

It's also this preoccupation
with Carmel Snow,

as-as though the press was
more important than making clothes.

This is beautiful.

You should honor your father's
wishes. Go see your brother.

Carmel, I've been thinking.

I really would like
to tell my story.

Oh, my dear.

To do an article about
your return to Paris

is among my highest
hopes but is not possible.

I don't understand.

The rumors about you,

they seem impossibly
challenging to overcome.

Oh, I see.

But certainly you can
attempt to-to move the needle.

Well, Harper's is insisting that I
keep looking for the great collection

to rise from the ashes
of the last five years.

Carmel, come
back to Switzerland.

I will show you what
real talent can deliver.

Of course, my dear.

I'll be there next week.

I need to get my skis
fitted for the holidays.

Fantastic! This is ideal.

I will show you my
latest fragrances.

I look forward to it.

Must go. Bye-bye.

I don't have it yet.

The-The piece, the definitive
piece that will set the tone

for the entire collection.

PSYCHIATRIC HOSPITAL
JEAN-PHILIPPE BOURDON

Monsieur Dior, your
brother is in his usual spot.

He just woke up from a nap.

He doesn't usually like
to speak until dinnertime.

Yes, I understand. I'd
just like to sit with him.

Bernard?

It's me. Christian.

I'd like to sit with you. Yeah?

I'll do some sketching.

Do you see that?

There.

You should draw the trees.

The way they are dancing
reminds me of people.

How are they treating you?

Fine, if you like asylums.

Well, who doesn't like a little
peace and quiet now and then?

Plenty of quiet here.

Not much peace.

And you, how are you?

Uh, busy.

I've been given my own atelier,
so it's quite a lot of responsibility.

Finally, I-I'm
designing for myself.

- Oh, your own business.
- Hmm.

What would Mother think?

Uh...

I think she would be
most displeased, huh?

Father's failures.

It was too much for her.

She was so sensitive.

It was his fault...

wasn't it?

Making a business
out of fertilizer.

Running his shit factory
and losing it all in the crash

and bringing shame
on the name of Dior.

Don't forget her famous edict.

"Never again shall the name
Dior feature on a shop front."

You still aren't
drawing the trees.

No, it's a girl that I met.

Marie-Thérèse, a
model that we are using.

A girl?

You?

She looks like Mother.

Perhaps.

Father called.

He wants us to visit him.

Oh, no. No, no.
This is not possible.

It might be nice.

Please, Christian. You're
making me nervous.

I might hyperventilate, and then
they would all come rushing in.

Yeah. We d...
We don't want that.

Come. Walk with me.

I need to go for a walk.

Uh, Monsieur Dior really
wanted to greet you personally,

but he had to leave town
unexpectedly to see his brother.

Will he be furious that you
brought me back to see these?

I just wanted you to have a
glimpse to see what he's doing.

Yes.

Thank you.

I couldn't bear to have
you seeing the work

of every other
designer in Paris.

Yes.

I'm not seeing it yet, the piece
that will define the collection.

I'll be in touch.

I've been reading
about life and nature.

We are all two parts.

Huh?

The upper and the under.
The light and the dark.

In, uh, each of us,

they float like layers,
separated by a bar.

Our dark half...

our underneath, it needs to stay
there, pressed down into the Earth.

Only then can the other part,

- the light, rise up.
- Hmm.

That's what you need
to show the world.

Tell Father I cannot come home.

Oh.

Coco, I have news.

I'm meeting my contact later.

That sounds nefarious.

Elsa, I'm only here to help.

W-W-Where's Coco?

We don't need your kind of help.

Well, I wouldn't be so sure.

You seem desperate.

Are you... Are you desperate?

No. I am completely and
utterly without desperation.

You know, I can help.

I... I can get things.

What sort of things?

The sort of things you need.

You know, we've been around
men like you our whole lives.

She can see right through you.

So can I.

I know what you need.

Oh. Spatz here was
just offering to help us.

Carmel Snow is
coming here tomorrow.

I need you both gone.

Yeah, but, Coco, we're...

we're... partners.

All you are is a
mess. Look at yourself.

Get out of my sight, Elsa.

Get out!

And you, go get
me what I asked for!

I'll just be a moment.
Please wait here.

You'll get me what
I need, will you?

'Cause Coco won't. She hates
me. She's always hated me.

- Elsa.
- Yeah?

Nobody hates
you. Just be patient.

I'm meeting someone
who can help us, all right?

Yes, but you're meeting
them for her, not me.

They'll be able to help
you as well, all right?

- Mmm.
- Sit tight.

We've been messaging for so
long, I forgot how mysterious you are.

Could it be that we were actually in
Schellenberg's office when I last saw you?

Fräulein Klein.

I appreciate it.

Take two tablets every
morning for three days.

Thank you very much.

CHEMIST

How is he, dear Schellenberg?

- You haven't heard?
- No.

The Danish got him.

He has been in custody
for some time now.

He has been talking.

And his files? His documents?

Many of them were
destroyed but...

But?

Not all of them.
There was no time.

And what about
Operation Modellhut?

The Chanel debacle?

Mm-hmm.

I can't say for sure.

Hello?

Hello. Um, excuse me.

Um, I'd like some of your
best narcotics, please.

I can get the prescription
afterwards, if you...

- No. You can't come back here.
- Maybe I could just...

- I have a knife.
- Somebody, help!

Here are the papers
for your new identity.

From the same man
who forged mine.

- Mm-hmm.
- He's good.

How good?

- Good enough for us.
- Hmm.

What have you planned
for Chanel and her friend?

Have you decided
if they are a threat?

Let go! Stop it! Please!

- Let go of me!
- Go, go. Go. I'll find you later.

I don't want to come with
you! No! Please! Just don't.

I can't.

Oh, my.

Oh, it's fabulous.

I'm sure the bottles
will fly out of the store.

Then you will help me?

If only I could.

Look... I haven't forgotten
all you've done for fashion.

But, Coco, you must accept that there
are some hurdles even I can't surmount.

Your present reputation makes it
unthinkable for us to champion you.

Harper's wants to find a...

a new postwar visionary to
lead us into the next chapter.

The world isn't looking
for old ladies like us.

I may be old, but I'm not dead.

I'm alive every day
with ideas. New ideas.

I need to do my work.

N-Now, I find myself in
this place, in this prison.

The world that
once celebrated me

has now forgotten all that I
did for fashion and for the world.

No. No, you are not forgotten.

If you can't write about me,

perhaps you can
help in another way.

Well, if I can, I will.

Will you take some
bottles back with you

and get them into the
hands of people who matter?

If you can get your bottles
delivered to my hotel, I'll do the rest.

Got to cut some herbs.

Let's have a salad for dinner.

Papa, there's something
I wanted to tell you.

I'm listening.

- It's about Friedman's daughter, Tania.
- Uh-huh?

I... I didn't tell you
the whole story.

Fuck. Oh, God. Fuck.

Broke it.

Papa, did you hear what I said?

To the right a bit.

Uh, my mother
would be horrified.

Oh. It's beautiful.

Papa?

Papa?

Oh, you're just in time.

- Do you think it's too big?
- No, no, no, no. It's perfect.

Well, what do you think?
Do you think it's too big?

I have to talk to you.

- What is it?
- Papa.

Papa. Papa.

Catherine called.

Mm-hmm?

Your father died.

Papa? Papa? No.

Papa, wake up. Papa? Papa?

It was his heart, my love.

It gave out.

I don't have the time, Father.

I want you all to come visit.

I don't have the time.

Family is important too.

We are all two parts.

The light and the dark.

Separated by a bar.

What have you done?

That's what you need
to show the world.

Where are all the sketches?

I found it.

The definitive piece.