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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,240 --> 00:00:05,480 BELL CHIMES 2 00:00:08,800 --> 00:00:12,520 It's Easter in Poland's capital, Warsaw. 3 00:00:12,520 --> 00:00:17,040 The people gather to commemorate the crucifixion of Christ... 4 00:00:17,040 --> 00:00:18,680 and the resurrection. 5 00:00:23,720 --> 00:00:27,600 I haven't been back to Warsaw since I lived here as a child. 6 00:00:27,600 --> 00:00:29,800 I was seven when I moved here with my family. 7 00:00:29,800 --> 00:00:33,280 My father had a job in the city. 8 00:00:33,280 --> 00:00:36,160 It is of course strange to be back. 9 00:00:36,160 --> 00:00:41,200 I'm sure much has changed, but also much, to me, seems the same. 10 00:00:41,200 --> 00:00:44,800 It is, in a sense, like coming home. 11 00:00:44,800 --> 00:00:48,160 What is certain though, to me, is that what I saw here, 12 00:00:48,160 --> 00:00:52,560 what I felt here as a child has had a huge influence on my life. 13 00:00:59,440 --> 00:01:01,840 I'm going to explore my memories... 14 00:01:03,560 --> 00:01:05,360 ..the memories of the city... 15 00:01:07,280 --> 00:01:09,280 ..and the memories of its people. 16 00:01:11,000 --> 00:01:13,680 Warsaw was victim of one of the most atrocious 17 00:01:13,680 --> 00:01:16,280 crimes of the 20th century, 18 00:01:16,280 --> 00:01:20,440 when Hitler's Nazis tried to wipe it off the face of the earth. 19 00:01:27,120 --> 00:01:30,240 No city in modern history has endured such appalling 20 00:01:30,240 --> 00:01:32,080 devastation and loss. 21 00:01:36,960 --> 00:01:38,440 No city has had the courage 22 00:01:38,440 --> 00:01:41,920 and willpower to rise up from the ashes... 23 00:01:41,920 --> 00:01:43,760 and to rebuild the past. 24 00:01:47,000 --> 00:01:51,760 We're now used to intolerance and to attacks on beauty and culture. 25 00:01:53,000 --> 00:01:57,680 The Poles, in their courageous recreation of their lost city, 26 00:01:57,680 --> 00:02:02,200 the regaining of their lost beauty, are an inspiration for all of us. 27 00:02:08,560 --> 00:02:12,040 Warsaw is the city that came back from the dead, 28 00:02:12,040 --> 00:02:15,120 in the most miraculous of resurrections. 29 00:02:46,720 --> 00:02:48,640 In the summer of 1956, 30 00:02:48,640 --> 00:02:52,120 the Cruickshank family sailed eastwards on MS Batory. 31 00:02:56,200 --> 00:02:58,600 We were heading for a new home in Poland. 32 00:03:01,400 --> 00:03:04,560 At the age of seven, this was my first adventure abroad. 33 00:03:06,640 --> 00:03:09,880 It was all because my father, Gordon, had a job as a journalist 34 00:03:09,880 --> 00:03:13,360 with the London Daily Worker, a communist newspaper. 35 00:03:16,280 --> 00:03:20,280 Now that idea seems unusual, outlandish even. 36 00:03:20,280 --> 00:03:23,320 After all, we were going behind the Iron Curtain to 37 00:03:23,320 --> 00:03:25,640 Warsaw at the height of the Cold War. 38 00:03:27,880 --> 00:03:31,040 It was a decade or so after the end of the World War II, 39 00:03:31,040 --> 00:03:33,120 which had left the city devastated. 40 00:03:37,560 --> 00:03:41,960 I was last here in Warsaw almost 60 years ago, 41 00:03:43,280 --> 00:03:46,800 I was very young, but I have been back many times in my imagination. 42 00:03:46,800 --> 00:03:49,640 I think about it an awful lot. 43 00:03:49,640 --> 00:03:52,560 My memory is that the city was almost still a smoking 44 00:03:52,560 --> 00:03:54,800 ruin from the war. 45 00:03:57,720 --> 00:04:01,160 This is the stuff of my dreams, you know. 46 00:04:01,160 --> 00:04:03,240 Absolutely amazing experience. 47 00:04:04,520 --> 00:04:07,240 There are things I'm now noticing, these great statutes which, 48 00:04:07,240 --> 00:04:09,440 for a child, would have been terribly attractive 49 00:04:09,440 --> 00:04:11,760 and should be burnt into my memory. 50 00:04:13,000 --> 00:04:16,880 And for a child of seven, it was utterly romantic. 51 00:04:16,880 --> 00:04:19,480 I loved it. I loved the ruins. 52 00:04:19,480 --> 00:04:23,480 It was a trip into the dark recesses of my mind, 53 00:04:23,480 --> 00:04:28,080 a trip into what was one of the very dark places of Earth in the 1950s. 54 00:04:36,840 --> 00:04:42,000 I'm on my way to the Old Town of Warsaw, where we used to live. 55 00:04:42,000 --> 00:04:44,360 It dates back to the mid-17th century, 56 00:04:44,360 --> 00:04:46,920 but had been almost levelled during the war. 57 00:04:48,080 --> 00:04:51,960 When I was last here, most of it had been recently rebuilt. 58 00:05:09,240 --> 00:05:10,440 HE LAUGHS 59 00:05:10,440 --> 00:05:13,120 This is amazing. Walking back into my own childhood. 60 00:05:13,120 --> 00:05:18,360 This is the market place, the market square - the heart of the Old Town. 61 00:05:18,360 --> 00:05:20,720 This is where I grew up. 62 00:05:20,720 --> 00:05:23,280 I often think about this space. 63 00:05:23,280 --> 00:05:27,320 A wonderful, mellow atmosphere the buildings have, antique 64 00:05:27,320 --> 00:05:28,920 and ancient in feel. 65 00:05:30,800 --> 00:05:35,720 Charming, these astonishing moments. Stabbing memories. Laser-like. 66 00:05:35,720 --> 00:05:39,560 Suddenly little things I've forgotten for nearly 60 years come back. 67 00:05:42,880 --> 00:05:46,840 I remember being entranced by the Old Town. 68 00:05:46,840 --> 00:05:49,240 The bold colours, yellow ochre. 69 00:05:49,240 --> 00:05:54,440 And, of course, the vivid, Baroque detail everywhere. 70 00:05:57,080 --> 00:05:59,880 It's hard to believe that most of this was meticulously 71 00:05:59,880 --> 00:06:02,520 recreated just 60 years ago. 72 00:06:06,760 --> 00:06:11,080 Amazing - I remember those, the putti with the goat, 73 00:06:11,080 --> 00:06:13,440 and naughty little boys, 74 00:06:13,440 --> 00:06:18,040 naughty fellows with their baskets of grapes, Bacchanalian scene... 75 00:06:18,040 --> 00:06:21,280 musical parade, tambourines. 76 00:06:21,280 --> 00:06:25,040 Now, the thing is...to work out exactly where I lived. 77 00:06:25,040 --> 00:06:29,280 I've got here, as it happens... It may seem strange that 78 00:06:29,280 --> 00:06:32,920 I should keep such things, but I didn't - my mother did, or my father. 79 00:06:32,920 --> 00:06:36,440 It's my exercise book from school, when I went to school in Warsaw. 80 00:06:36,440 --> 00:06:38,960 Here it is. 81 00:06:38,960 --> 00:06:42,200 "5th of September 1957." 82 00:06:42,200 --> 00:06:45,680 It's a mathematical problem that I had to solve then. 83 00:06:45,680 --> 00:06:48,200 I fear... I don't know, I think I got it right. 84 00:06:48,200 --> 00:06:50,040 But here we are, look. 85 00:06:50,040 --> 00:06:52,640 "Swietojanska", which is St John's Street. 86 00:06:52,640 --> 00:06:54,960 Number 33, flat two. 87 00:07:06,120 --> 00:07:11,920 Swietojanska, St John's Street, number 33/2, first floor. 88 00:07:11,920 --> 00:07:14,600 That's our living room and our kitchen up there. 89 00:07:14,600 --> 00:07:18,000 What a lovely building. What a lovely place to live. 90 00:07:23,400 --> 00:07:24,960 This is my door. 91 00:07:33,320 --> 00:07:35,000 BUZZER 92 00:07:33,320 --> 00:07:35,000 Ah! 93 00:07:38,720 --> 00:07:40,600 Oh, the staircase. 94 00:07:44,080 --> 00:07:47,680 Ah, well, there you go, number two. 95 00:07:47,680 --> 00:07:51,440 As on my school exercise book. 96 00:07:51,440 --> 00:07:54,120 Good heavens. OK. Ah. 97 00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:56,800 HE KNOCKS 98 00:07:58,160 --> 00:07:59,320 HE LAUGHS 99 00:07:59,320 --> 00:08:02,520 It's bizarre. Um. Ah! 100 00:08:02,520 --> 00:08:06,120 Hello. Ah, hi, my name is Dan Cruickshank. 101 00:08:06,120 --> 00:08:10,280 I used to live here. Many, many years ago. 102 00:08:10,280 --> 00:08:11,720 OK. 103 00:08:13,320 --> 00:08:17,560 The new tenant of my old home is Bert Coslow from Texas. 104 00:08:17,560 --> 00:08:20,880 Can I just look through the window? Please, go ahead. 105 00:08:20,880 --> 00:08:24,320 'It's a moment I've dreamt about for years.' 106 00:08:26,240 --> 00:08:28,520 Well, well, well, well, well. 107 00:08:31,040 --> 00:08:35,040 Now, I made a series of drawings from this very window. 108 00:08:35,040 --> 00:08:37,800 You made this from this window? From this window. 109 00:08:37,800 --> 00:08:41,040 And how old were you? Well, I was seven, I was about seven years old. 110 00:08:41,040 --> 00:08:43,240 It's quite good for a seven-year-old. Oh, is it? 111 00:08:43,240 --> 00:08:46,080 Thank you. You can clearly see, looking at this, to me there is 112 00:08:46,080 --> 00:08:47,960 no doubt in my mind what's being portrayed. 113 00:08:47,960 --> 00:08:50,400 I suppose what enthralled me was, of course, that these 114 00:08:50,400 --> 00:08:52,880 are things calculated to really engage children. 115 00:08:52,880 --> 00:08:54,480 I mean, the lion over there. 116 00:08:56,920 --> 00:09:00,200 And this sort of dragon finial at the top. Yeah. 117 00:09:00,200 --> 00:09:02,560 And, of course, the amazing clock. 118 00:09:04,760 --> 00:09:08,880 And then the view in to the square itself. 119 00:09:08,880 --> 00:09:11,960 And these are very interesting drawings, I can say that myself. 120 00:09:11,960 --> 00:09:14,320 It's such a long time ago, isn't it? It's hardly me. 121 00:09:14,320 --> 00:09:16,840 But the detail, the loving detail, 122 00:09:16,840 --> 00:09:20,480 the observation does suggest the beginnings of my passion 123 00:09:20,480 --> 00:09:23,280 for architecture, which becomes the ruling thing of my life. 124 00:09:23,280 --> 00:09:26,200 Seems to be, seems to be that the foundations 125 00:09:26,200 --> 00:09:28,320 are certainly here in 1957. 126 00:09:29,840 --> 00:09:34,160 Clearly, this drawing, this view from here, 127 00:09:34,160 --> 00:09:37,800 through this window, of this space, is where it all starts for me. Yeah. 128 00:09:55,800 --> 00:09:58,600 Something big has changed since I was last here. 129 00:09:59,920 --> 00:10:03,960 The old market square has a happy-go-lucky atmosphere... 130 00:10:03,960 --> 00:10:07,160 not the muted, solemn place of my memories. 131 00:10:12,920 --> 00:10:16,400 You see, the scene I just walked past, the chap in the wheelchair 132 00:10:16,400 --> 00:10:19,600 with no legs, that's it, that's what I remember. Amazing. 133 00:10:19,600 --> 00:10:22,520 Damaged people, physically damaged people from the uprising, 134 00:10:22,520 --> 00:10:24,600 from the war. Mentally damaged people. 135 00:10:24,600 --> 00:10:29,400 And here is a chap sitting there, as if it was 60 years ago. 136 00:10:29,400 --> 00:10:30,600 That was very odd. 137 00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:41,080 As a seven-year-old, I didn't understand how 138 00:10:41,080 --> 00:10:44,400 dreadfully Warsaw had suffered during the Second World War. 139 00:10:46,000 --> 00:10:49,280 I was fortunate not to witness the death and destruction. 140 00:10:51,640 --> 00:10:55,360 But there were reminders of it all over the city. 141 00:10:55,360 --> 00:10:58,080 Shrines commemorating the victims of the war. 142 00:10:59,840 --> 00:11:03,840 It was a city risen from the ruins, a city mourning the dead. 143 00:11:17,360 --> 00:11:21,360 It went far beyond the destruction that might be anticipated in war. 144 00:11:21,360 --> 00:11:25,280 In fact, Warsaw was the victim of a war crime almost 145 00:11:25,280 --> 00:11:30,440 unprecedented in history, a crime premeditated by the Nazis 146 00:11:30,440 --> 00:11:32,760 even before the war started. 147 00:11:38,680 --> 00:11:43,040 Hitler set out to eradicate Warsaw and annihilate its people. 148 00:11:47,640 --> 00:11:51,800 The damning evidence is to be found at the Institute of National Remembrance, 149 00:11:51,800 --> 00:11:55,440 which holds records of Nazi atrocities against Poland. 150 00:11:59,040 --> 00:12:02,600 Hitler's intentions were clinically laid out in a series of plans 151 00:12:02,600 --> 00:12:07,600 named after Friedrich Pabst, the Nazis' "Chief Architect for Warsaw" 152 00:12:12,040 --> 00:12:16,160 This set of plans...is chilling... 153 00:12:16,160 --> 00:12:18,880 shocking. 154 00:12:18,880 --> 00:12:22,280 They detail the near total 155 00:12:22,280 --> 00:12:24,760 obliteration of Warsaw 156 00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:28,600 and its replacement by a smaller town 157 00:12:28,600 --> 00:12:31,200 for German settlers and officials. 158 00:12:31,200 --> 00:12:36,760 They're dated. Here we have the 6th of February, 1940. 159 00:12:36,760 --> 00:12:40,840 And culminate with a proposal for its destruction. 160 00:12:42,760 --> 00:12:44,560 This is why it's chilling. 161 00:12:44,560 --> 00:12:48,360 A rather lovingly detailed and created model of the old city 162 00:12:48,360 --> 00:12:51,320 of Warsaw, in the 17th century. 163 00:12:51,320 --> 00:12:55,680 And then here we see its replacement, 164 00:12:55,680 --> 00:12:59,200 removal, by this rather banal looking - 165 00:12:59,200 --> 00:13:02,000 architecturally banal looking - German settlement, 166 00:13:02,000 --> 00:13:04,560 Really depressing, really depressing. 167 00:13:04,560 --> 00:13:08,120 But also another detail so revealing. 168 00:13:08,120 --> 00:13:10,240 The parts of the Old Town, 169 00:13:10,240 --> 00:13:14,440 of Warsaw's Stare Miasto, are left in place, because 170 00:13:14,440 --> 00:13:18,800 the Nazis had perceived within the fabric of the Old Town 171 00:13:18,800 --> 00:13:22,360 some Germanic qualities. They wanted to keep the Old Town 172 00:13:22,360 --> 00:13:25,440 because, in a sense, preserving it suggested that 173 00:13:25,440 --> 00:13:27,440 the Germans were here before. 174 00:13:27,440 --> 00:13:30,480 It justified their... 175 00:13:30,480 --> 00:13:32,760 determination to annexe Poland 176 00:13:32,760 --> 00:13:36,080 and to create this Germanic settlement on the site of Warsaw. 177 00:13:36,080 --> 00:13:38,920 This is, of course, an attack on architectural history 178 00:13:38,920 --> 00:13:40,440 and on architectural beauty. 179 00:13:40,440 --> 00:13:44,400 But the bigger thing is it reflects Hitler's and the Nazis' hatred 180 00:13:44,400 --> 00:13:46,800 of Poland and the Poles. 181 00:13:46,800 --> 00:13:49,720 To destroy Warsaw was to destroy 182 00:13:49,720 --> 00:13:52,480 Polish pride, Polish identity, 183 00:13:52,480 --> 00:13:55,720 Polish hopes for the future. That's what this is really about. 184 00:14:08,680 --> 00:14:11,480 Poland's descent into hell began with the German 185 00:14:11,480 --> 00:14:15,760 invasion on 1st September, 1939. 186 00:14:15,760 --> 00:14:18,600 It caused the outbreak of World War II. 187 00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:41,520 Wanda Traczyk-Stawska lived through the horrors of Nazi occupation. 188 00:15:55,440 --> 00:15:59,680 It would be almost five years before Warsaw fought back, 189 00:15:59,680 --> 00:16:04,040 when the Polish home army tried to drive the Germans out of the city. 190 00:16:05,720 --> 00:16:09,640 The uprising, which started on the 1st August, 1944, 191 00:16:09,640 --> 00:16:12,680 lasted 63 days. 192 00:16:12,680 --> 00:16:16,520 The Poles exhibited great heroism and self sacrifice. 193 00:16:16,520 --> 00:16:20,160 But, in the end, the Nazis crushed them with shocking brutality. 194 00:16:24,440 --> 00:16:28,640 Wanda was one of many women who took up arms against the Nazis. 195 00:16:33,920 --> 00:16:36,720 How do you feel now, 70 years on or so, from the uprising? 196 00:16:36,720 --> 00:16:39,400 Do you feel it was doomed from the beginning? 197 00:16:39,400 --> 00:16:42,360 Was it worth the destruction of Warsaw? 198 00:17:11,760 --> 00:17:15,160 But the consequences were appalling, as Hitler ordered 199 00:17:15,160 --> 00:17:17,720 Warsaw to be razed to the ground. 200 00:17:24,640 --> 00:17:26,400 This computer graphic reveals 201 00:17:26,400 --> 00:17:28,880 the enormity of the destruction. 202 00:17:31,120 --> 00:17:33,600 The Old Town, one of the centres of Polish 203 00:17:33,600 --> 00:17:37,320 resistance during the uprising, was systematically destroyed. 204 00:17:38,800 --> 00:17:41,880 Historic buildings, including the castle, were set ablaze 205 00:17:41,880 --> 00:17:44,240 and blown up with high explosives. 206 00:17:47,560 --> 00:17:50,800 The Jewish ghetto, the largest in Nazi-controlled Europe, 207 00:17:50,800 --> 00:17:56,080 had been levelled in 1943 and its population virtually wiped out, 208 00:17:56,080 --> 00:17:59,120 either in the city or extermination camps. 209 00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:05,200 By the end of the war, nearly 90% of Warsaw lay in ruins. 210 00:18:07,160 --> 00:18:09,760 But this was not the end of the nightmare. 211 00:18:13,040 --> 00:18:16,160 The Poles had been encouraged to rise up by the Soviets, 212 00:18:16,160 --> 00:18:18,240 who were closing in on Warsaw. 213 00:18:21,120 --> 00:18:24,840 But then they stood by and let the Nazis destroy the city 214 00:18:24,840 --> 00:18:28,080 and undermine Poland's battle for independence. 215 00:18:30,840 --> 00:18:33,320 They had plans of their own. 216 00:18:54,440 --> 00:18:58,520 The human cost of the uprising was huge. 217 00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:02,000 The population of Warsaw had been crushed by the brutal 218 00:19:02,000 --> 00:19:03,760 and vengeful Nazis. 219 00:19:03,760 --> 00:19:07,280 Around 200,000 people had died. 220 00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:10,840 And now they faced a future under the yoke of the Soviet Union, 221 00:19:10,840 --> 00:19:15,040 which had betrayed them in their hour of need. 222 00:19:15,040 --> 00:19:19,040 The future of Warsaw as a capital city hung in the balance. 223 00:19:24,040 --> 00:19:28,080 All hope of Poland regaining its independence was finally dashed, 224 00:19:28,080 --> 00:19:31,600 as it passed from one totalitarian overlord to another. 225 00:19:34,200 --> 00:19:38,800 It became a Soviet puppet state, led by a hardline Stalinist government. 226 00:19:41,560 --> 00:19:45,400 By 1956, the regime had arrested 250,000 Poles 227 00:19:45,400 --> 00:19:48,880 regarded as "traitors" for fighting to establish a free 228 00:19:48,880 --> 00:19:50,720 and independent nation. 229 00:19:53,680 --> 00:19:59,200 20,000 died in prison and 3,000 were executed... 230 00:19:59,200 --> 00:20:01,600 their fate kept secret. 231 00:20:06,080 --> 00:20:09,480 Given what we now know, it might seem shocking that it was 232 00:20:09,480 --> 00:20:13,320 my father's communist convictions that brought us to Warsaw. 233 00:20:16,360 --> 00:20:20,520 Gordon Cruickshank is the correspondent here for London Daily Worker. 234 00:20:20,520 --> 00:20:25,600 In 1957, he was interviewed by Christopher Chataway for the BBC. 235 00:20:25,600 --> 00:20:29,880 What proportion of the ordinary people do you think are really communists? 236 00:20:29,880 --> 00:20:33,360 I would say that the vast mass of the Polish people, 237 00:20:33,360 --> 00:20:35,560 to my mind and from my experience... 238 00:20:37,440 --> 00:20:40,120 ..support a socialist economy. 239 00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:42,640 That is to say they don't want landlords back, 240 00:20:42,640 --> 00:20:47,080 they don't want private ownership of factories and industry back at all. 241 00:20:50,000 --> 00:20:53,120 My father was not alone in his beliefs. 242 00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:58,480 Like many, he'd become a communist in the late 1930s to fight fascism. 243 00:20:58,480 --> 00:21:01,080 And, despite the brutal reality of Stalinism, 244 00:21:01,080 --> 00:21:04,840 he still believed that communism could help build a better world. 245 00:21:09,960 --> 00:21:14,040 Back in 1945, Poland's Stalinist government had taken 246 00:21:14,040 --> 00:21:18,040 the decision to rebuild Warsaw as the capital. 247 00:21:18,040 --> 00:21:20,760 But they weren't interested in the old city - 248 00:21:20,760 --> 00:21:23,480 they had a vision for a socialist utopia. 249 00:21:29,920 --> 00:21:33,080 They built a state of the art transport network, 250 00:21:33,080 --> 00:21:36,840 with brand-new trams to replace the ones destroyed during the war. 251 00:21:40,520 --> 00:21:42,920 I remember being frightened of trams as a child here. 252 00:21:42,920 --> 00:21:44,280 There weren't trams in London. 253 00:21:44,280 --> 00:21:47,120 I was particularly fearful of the junctions. 254 00:21:47,120 --> 00:21:50,880 I saw an accident at a junction, which of course confirmed that 255 00:21:50,880 --> 00:21:54,920 I was right to be fearful of these frightful devices, these trams. 256 00:21:58,040 --> 00:22:00,240 Um... Ah, I press the button to get on. 257 00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:03,640 Ah, here we go, this is lovely. 258 00:22:13,600 --> 00:22:15,320 We're going down this great avenue, 259 00:22:15,320 --> 00:22:19,440 the great Stalinist avenue in reconstructed Warsaw. 260 00:22:19,440 --> 00:22:23,760 Each side are these neo-classical blocks, clad with stone mostly. 261 00:22:25,080 --> 00:22:28,760 This was, of course, the Soviet vision for the new Warsaw. 262 00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:38,840 Oh, look, there's the Palace of Culture. 263 00:22:43,760 --> 00:22:46,920 'The Palace of Culture and Science - Russia's gift to Warsaw - 264 00:22:46,920 --> 00:22:50,280 'looks down on the Polish capital's National Day parade. 265 00:22:50,280 --> 00:22:53,520 'The Poles are a determined people and their capital is rapidly 266 00:22:53,520 --> 00:22:57,040 'regaining its position as one of Europe's most beautiful cities. 267 00:22:57,040 --> 00:23:00,040 'And it's not only their buildings that look good.' 268 00:23:01,040 --> 00:23:03,760 The Palace was completed in 1955, 269 00:23:03,760 --> 00:23:07,120 so, virtually new when I arrived in the city. 270 00:23:07,120 --> 00:23:10,760 And, even as a young child, I soon learned that the people of Warsaw 271 00:23:10,760 --> 00:23:15,520 did not like this unwelcome gift from the Soviet authorities. 272 00:23:15,520 --> 00:23:19,520 They regarded it as a cynical and calculated imposition, 273 00:23:19,520 --> 00:23:23,520 and hardly a gift as it was largely paid for by the Soviet exploitation 274 00:23:23,520 --> 00:23:25,760 of Poland's natural resources. 275 00:23:25,760 --> 00:23:29,560 And, architecturally, there were already seven towers like this 276 00:23:29,560 --> 00:23:32,720 in Moscow, called Stalin's Seven Sisters, 277 00:23:32,720 --> 00:23:36,720 so, for the people of Warsaw, this was no more than a Soviet brand 278 00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:39,760 burnt into the soul of their city. 279 00:23:46,280 --> 00:23:48,760 At 231 metres, 280 00:23:48,760 --> 00:23:51,440 it's still Poland's tallest building 281 00:23:51,440 --> 00:23:55,920 and, love it or loathe it, it has become THE symbol of Warsaw. 282 00:24:01,760 --> 00:24:07,040 The rebuilding of Warsaw after 1945 was a complex business. 283 00:24:07,040 --> 00:24:11,760 Very quickly, two parallel visions started to emerge. 284 00:24:11,760 --> 00:24:16,760 One was for the creation of a typical Soviet-style city 285 00:24:16,760 --> 00:24:19,760 with straight boulevards - you can see one over there, 286 00:24:19,760 --> 00:24:22,280 lined with stone-clad apartment blocks, 287 00:24:22,280 --> 00:24:24,560 for the official families, I suppose. 288 00:24:24,560 --> 00:24:28,760 And concrete-built housing estates over there, 289 00:24:28,760 --> 00:24:31,280 rather grim, for the workers. 290 00:24:32,800 --> 00:24:36,280 The other vision was inspired by Warsaw history, 291 00:24:36,280 --> 00:24:39,280 for the recreation of the Old Town. 292 00:24:39,280 --> 00:24:42,800 And you can see the Old Town over there, ultimately recreated, 293 00:24:42,800 --> 00:24:46,040 characterised by low-rise red pantile roofs, 294 00:24:46,040 --> 00:24:47,760 a dash of exotic colour. 295 00:24:47,760 --> 00:24:51,120 That vision was driven by the people of Warsaw. 296 00:24:51,120 --> 00:24:56,280 The loss of the beloved Old Town to Nazi barbarity was intolerable. 297 00:24:56,280 --> 00:24:58,280 It had to be recreated. 298 00:24:58,280 --> 00:25:00,840 A great wrong had to be put right. 299 00:25:08,280 --> 00:25:12,640 As a seven-year-old boy, I wasn't aware of this clash of styles - 300 00:25:12,640 --> 00:25:16,040 the gargantuan Stalinist edifice that touched the sky 301 00:25:16,040 --> 00:25:19,520 versus the quaint 'old' houses and beautiful square 302 00:25:19,520 --> 00:25:21,240 which I loved. 303 00:25:23,240 --> 00:25:26,760 What I didn't know then was that rebuilding the city had been 304 00:25:26,760 --> 00:25:30,120 one of the most daunting reconstruction jobs in history. 305 00:25:31,280 --> 00:25:36,960 In January 1945, it must have felt like the end of the world in Warsaw. 306 00:25:44,360 --> 00:25:47,320 The man who led the campaign to convince the Communists 307 00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:52,280 to rebuild the past was Warsaw architect Jan Zachwatowicz. 308 00:25:57,280 --> 00:26:00,040 I've come to visit his daughter Krystyna, 309 00:26:00,040 --> 00:26:04,040 who, as a teenager, had fought in the Warsaw uprising. 310 00:26:05,640 --> 00:26:09,360 Your father's spontaneous reaction was to rebuild the city 311 00:26:09,360 --> 00:26:12,280 because it represented their identity, their pride, 312 00:26:12,280 --> 00:26:15,040 but this had to take place within a changed world - 313 00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:19,040 the world of a new communist regime. These things had to be reconciled. 314 00:26:19,040 --> 00:26:22,040 How did your father find it possible? Was it difficult? 315 00:26:22,040 --> 00:26:24,080 Did he have to persuade the new authorities 316 00:26:24,080 --> 00:26:25,760 to recreate the historic quarter? 317 00:27:40,760 --> 00:27:43,320 This was Warsaw's year zero. 318 00:27:43,320 --> 00:27:46,280 But the people needed more than just memories 319 00:27:46,280 --> 00:27:48,760 to bring the past back to life. 320 00:27:48,760 --> 00:27:52,760 With the city so utterly flattened, they needed something more tangible 321 00:27:52,760 --> 00:27:54,440 to go on. 322 00:27:54,440 --> 00:27:57,520 Plans, paintings or photographs. 323 00:28:06,280 --> 00:28:09,040 I've come to a Warsaw peep show, 324 00:28:09,040 --> 00:28:12,520 which is not what you might think it is, despite appearances. 325 00:28:12,520 --> 00:28:15,520 It is in fact the Fotoplastikon - 326 00:28:15,520 --> 00:28:19,760 a remarkable institution that survived both World Wars. 327 00:28:19,760 --> 00:28:22,520 It is now an invaluable time machine 328 00:28:22,520 --> 00:28:27,040 containing photographs of Warsaw before its destruction in 1944. 329 00:28:31,280 --> 00:28:33,040 Oh, well, that's lovely. 330 00:28:33,040 --> 00:28:38,360 That is, I suppose, a late 19th century, exotic, Edwardian scene. 331 00:28:38,360 --> 00:28:41,360 They're 3D. It's amazing. Oh, this a fantastic image. 332 00:28:41,360 --> 00:28:44,280 This shows the Castle Square. 333 00:28:44,280 --> 00:28:47,520 Now we get insight into the cosmopolitan and rich 334 00:28:47,520 --> 00:28:50,760 and romantic life of Warsaw before the destruction. 335 00:28:50,760 --> 00:28:52,400 This is 1895. 336 00:28:53,760 --> 00:28:56,040 Here's a lovely... 337 00:28:56,040 --> 00:28:57,960 big avenue. 338 00:28:57,960 --> 00:28:59,520 looks like Paris. 339 00:29:00,520 --> 00:29:03,520 Oh, the famous steps Of the Old Town. 340 00:29:03,520 --> 00:29:06,040 A narrow alley of steps. Not much has changed. 341 00:29:06,040 --> 00:29:09,120 I can probably see myself walking through that, actually. 342 00:29:18,520 --> 00:29:21,200 This is a fantastic document 343 00:29:21,200 --> 00:29:23,280 to inform the reconstruction. 344 00:29:23,280 --> 00:29:26,520 Essential...that's the sort of essential information needed 345 00:29:26,520 --> 00:29:28,440 to rebuild the city after the war. 346 00:29:28,440 --> 00:29:31,280 Not just information, but architectural detail, 347 00:29:31,280 --> 00:29:34,280 which was essential, but also, in a sense, I suppose, 348 00:29:34,280 --> 00:29:38,040 they encapsulate memories of the city as a lively, romantic place - 349 00:29:38,040 --> 00:29:40,040 a place with a Parisian quality. 350 00:29:40,040 --> 00:29:43,280 You can fully understand why the people of Warsaw, 351 00:29:43,280 --> 00:29:47,000 having lost their city, they also lost the life that went with it. 352 00:29:47,000 --> 00:29:50,040 So it was to recreate, of course, the architecture 353 00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:53,760 and also, as far as possible, to recapture and recreate the life 354 00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:57,040 lived within the theatre of the ancient architecture, 355 00:29:57,040 --> 00:29:58,760 this historic architecture. 356 00:29:58,760 --> 00:30:03,320 Amazing vignette, amazing little time machine back to what had been 357 00:30:03,320 --> 00:30:07,760 a lost and much regretted period in the history of the city. 358 00:30:27,360 --> 00:30:30,040 The photographs were a good start, 359 00:30:30,040 --> 00:30:32,760 but the architects delved further into the past 360 00:30:32,760 --> 00:30:35,280 for a more picturesque muse. 361 00:30:44,640 --> 00:30:48,520 A superb collection of paintings of Warsaw in this room 362 00:30:48,520 --> 00:30:50,520 were made in the late 1770s 363 00:30:50,520 --> 00:30:53,520 by an Italian artist called Bernardo Bellotto. 364 00:30:53,520 --> 00:30:55,520 But he tended to use the name 365 00:30:55,520 --> 00:30:58,760 of his more famous artist uncle - Canaletto. 366 00:31:03,640 --> 00:31:05,760 As a court painter to the king, 367 00:31:05,760 --> 00:31:09,520 he produced 26 cityscapes for the royal castle. 368 00:31:12,480 --> 00:31:14,760 The second half of the 18th century 369 00:31:14,760 --> 00:31:17,280 was the era of the Polish Enlightenment 370 00:31:17,280 --> 00:31:22,280 when the nation was at the height of its prestige, power and prosperity. 371 00:31:27,720 --> 00:31:32,040 These paintings contain lots of lovely detail, of course, 372 00:31:32,040 --> 00:31:37,840 therefore perfect to use for the reconstruction of Warsaw. 373 00:31:37,840 --> 00:31:42,720 But there is also, I must say, a lot of poetic license. 374 00:31:42,720 --> 00:31:46,040 The artist is creating an ideal vision of Warsaw 375 00:31:46,040 --> 00:31:50,520 and contrives to make it look, occasionally, rather like Rome. 376 00:31:50,520 --> 00:31:52,520 Why not? The model. 377 00:31:52,520 --> 00:31:54,600 So this, in a way, is a dream of Warsaw - 378 00:31:54,600 --> 00:31:56,640 a late 18th century dream of Warsaw. 379 00:31:56,640 --> 00:31:58,760 Warsaw as it ought to have been. 380 00:31:58,760 --> 00:32:01,760 Well, certainly as far as Bellotto was concerned. 381 00:32:02,760 --> 00:32:05,040 Look at this. It is absolutely wonderful. 382 00:32:05,040 --> 00:32:07,040 Almost photographic, but not quite, 383 00:32:07,040 --> 00:32:09,520 because things have been slightly manipulated 384 00:32:09,520 --> 00:32:12,320 for the most powerful visual architectural effect. 385 00:32:12,320 --> 00:32:15,520 A bit like how Canaletto made London look like Venice. 386 00:32:15,520 --> 00:32:17,360 Perfectly understandable. 387 00:32:27,240 --> 00:32:29,040 In the grim 1940s, 388 00:32:29,040 --> 00:32:33,040 Bellotto's magical images were far more real, 389 00:32:33,040 --> 00:32:36,040 more compelling than reality. 390 00:32:36,040 --> 00:32:40,200 They captured the beauty of the lost past. 391 00:32:51,120 --> 00:32:55,040 Bellotto's paintings alone were not enough to rebuild the lost city. 392 00:32:55,040 --> 00:32:57,520 Precise, technical drawings were needed. 393 00:33:03,280 --> 00:33:07,760 Miraculously, plans of the old town, drawn by architectural students 394 00:33:07,760 --> 00:33:10,280 before the war, also survived. 395 00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:18,520 They were smuggled out of the city after the uprising under the noses 396 00:33:18,520 --> 00:33:22,680 of the Nazis and hidden in a church in the coffins of monks. 397 00:33:34,760 --> 00:33:37,880 Here are copies of some of the drawings. 398 00:33:37,880 --> 00:33:39,760 They're a wonderful quality. 399 00:33:39,760 --> 00:33:43,040 These are really good and informed architecture students. 400 00:33:43,040 --> 00:33:45,040 They knew their classical details. 401 00:33:45,040 --> 00:33:48,760 Here is the elevation of the block of buildings opposite me 402 00:33:48,760 --> 00:33:50,280 in the Market Place. 403 00:33:50,280 --> 00:33:53,040 You can see, here they are, drawn in the 1930s 404 00:33:53,040 --> 00:33:55,280 as they were before destruction 405 00:33:55,280 --> 00:33:57,120 and then as recreated. 406 00:33:57,120 --> 00:34:01,520 And much of that recreation is based on, inspired by, informed by, 407 00:34:01,520 --> 00:34:03,280 this drawing. 408 00:34:04,280 --> 00:34:06,280 Then there are wonderful details. 409 00:34:06,280 --> 00:34:09,000 For example, one of the houses opposite is shown in some detail, 410 00:34:09,000 --> 00:34:11,760 there it is, with that interesting door. 411 00:34:11,760 --> 00:34:14,520 And then there are drawings of windows and doors. 412 00:34:14,520 --> 00:34:16,600 This one dated 1932. 413 00:34:16,600 --> 00:34:20,800 There's another thing to be extracted from studying these drawings. 414 00:34:20,800 --> 00:34:22,720 Some of the buildings as recreated 415 00:34:22,720 --> 00:34:25,520 don't exactly correspond to the 1930s surveys. 416 00:34:25,520 --> 00:34:27,280 They've been tweaked. 417 00:34:27,280 --> 00:34:30,760 Some later details, for example, 19th century doors or shop fronts 418 00:34:30,760 --> 00:34:32,280 were not reconstructed. 419 00:34:32,280 --> 00:34:35,720 Instead, the architects returned to the world of the 18th century. 420 00:34:35,720 --> 00:34:39,040 So one can see mostly shops and ground floors 421 00:34:39,040 --> 00:34:41,040 and some windows, as shown here, 422 00:34:41,040 --> 00:34:43,520 are distinctly different from the recreation, 423 00:34:43,520 --> 00:34:46,760 which is to say, therefore, that the Old Town of Warsaw 424 00:34:46,760 --> 00:34:51,360 is not an absolute replica of what was destroyed in 1944, 425 00:34:51,360 --> 00:34:55,280 but a very spirited, very moving return 426 00:34:55,280 --> 00:34:57,960 to a sort of 18th century ideal. 427 00:35:06,040 --> 00:35:09,520 The plans were the key to reconstructing the Old Town. 428 00:35:09,520 --> 00:35:13,040 But there was still a terrifying amount of work to do. 429 00:35:18,760 --> 00:35:22,040 The people didn't want a Disney-style theme park. 430 00:35:22,040 --> 00:35:24,760 It had to be faithful to the past 431 00:35:24,760 --> 00:35:28,040 so the Old Town became a huge research laboratory. 432 00:35:29,520 --> 00:35:33,560 Archaeologists sifted through rubble, salvaging what details they could. 433 00:35:33,560 --> 00:35:38,040 Everybody played their part in an inspiring grassroots movement 434 00:35:38,040 --> 00:35:41,040 to save their history and rebuild their past. 435 00:35:43,920 --> 00:35:47,040 Among them was Irena Dawozianska. 436 00:36:58,800 --> 00:37:01,280 As I walk around the old Market Square, 437 00:37:01,280 --> 00:37:06,040 I try to spot architectural details that were salvaged from the ruins 438 00:37:06,040 --> 00:37:09,160 or those that were recreated from scratch. 439 00:37:11,640 --> 00:37:13,800 Memories flood back. 440 00:37:14,800 --> 00:37:18,080 All the charming details that I sketched as a boy. 441 00:37:19,520 --> 00:37:21,800 Even with all my years of experience, 442 00:37:21,800 --> 00:37:25,000 I am, at times, hard pushed to spot the difference. 443 00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:35,000 Among the few buildings to survive the war, damaged but not destroyed, 444 00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:37,440 was the city museum. 445 00:37:37,440 --> 00:37:40,080 It's a place I loved as a boy. 446 00:37:44,080 --> 00:37:47,280 I long to return so I meet Anna Zasadzinska, 447 00:37:47,280 --> 00:37:51,520 who works for the museum, which is currently closed for repairs. 448 00:37:52,520 --> 00:37:55,760 Before the war, the three houses that we can see in front of us - 449 00:37:55,760 --> 00:37:59,160 the three in the centre - were bought by the city, 450 00:37:59,160 --> 00:38:01,480 just to create a city museum there. 451 00:38:01,480 --> 00:38:03,880 Are they about the only ones that survived 452 00:38:03,880 --> 00:38:05,760 in the whole of the Old Town? 453 00:38:05,760 --> 00:38:08,040 There were five in total that survived 454 00:38:08,040 --> 00:38:11,280 and three of them we're just seeing now. 455 00:38:11,280 --> 00:38:15,040 Out of many, many hundreds, five is heartbreaking, isn't it? 456 00:38:15,040 --> 00:38:18,520 90% of the buildings were destructed. 457 00:38:18,520 --> 00:38:20,040 Oh, gosh. 458 00:38:20,040 --> 00:38:22,760 It must have been very hard to have lost so much. 459 00:38:22,760 --> 00:38:25,520 But then the reconstruction is very good, isn't it? 460 00:38:25,520 --> 00:38:26,960 Exactly. 461 00:38:26,960 --> 00:38:32,040 Because after the 60 years, the Old Town really looks quite old. 462 00:38:32,040 --> 00:38:34,760 Exactly. That's good. That's exactly right. 463 00:38:34,760 --> 00:38:38,760 It's developed a pattern of age. The materials have weathered well. 464 00:38:38,760 --> 00:38:42,520 I mean, because, presumably, the materials that were used - 465 00:38:42,520 --> 00:38:44,760 good stucco, good bricks - 466 00:38:44,760 --> 00:38:48,360 it's aged, it's weathered very convincingly. 467 00:38:49,920 --> 00:38:52,520 Do you like it? I do. I love it. 468 00:38:59,040 --> 00:39:01,040 Anna, thank you very much. 469 00:39:01,040 --> 00:39:02,520 OK. Up I go. 470 00:39:02,520 --> 00:39:05,520 You're going to stay here. Very wise. Good luck. Thank you. 471 00:39:05,520 --> 00:39:07,040 Oops. 472 00:39:08,040 --> 00:39:11,040 When I see scaffolding, my spirits soar. 473 00:39:12,040 --> 00:39:15,040 This group of three houses that survived the war 474 00:39:15,040 --> 00:39:18,440 gives me the chance to compare the old with the new. 475 00:39:22,360 --> 00:39:24,760 Now, here we are. 476 00:39:24,760 --> 00:39:28,520 This is one of the authentic elevations 477 00:39:28,520 --> 00:39:32,760 and it's very exciting to be so up close to it. 478 00:39:32,760 --> 00:39:35,520 Erm, lovely. Ah, there's the Moor's Head. 479 00:39:35,520 --> 00:39:39,280 We know this is new, recreated since the War, 480 00:39:39,280 --> 00:39:40,920 but very well done. 481 00:39:40,920 --> 00:39:43,040 The original is in the museum now. 482 00:39:43,040 --> 00:39:45,760 The key thing is to look at the materials. 483 00:39:45,760 --> 00:39:47,760 Of course these buildings... 484 00:39:47,760 --> 00:39:50,760 are rendered with lime render, 485 00:39:50,760 --> 00:39:53,080 not, of course, not cement. 486 00:39:53,080 --> 00:39:56,520 And this is a patch of original treatment. 487 00:39:56,520 --> 00:40:00,040 A soft, undulating, sensuous surface. 488 00:40:00,040 --> 00:40:02,440 Lovely to touch. 489 00:40:02,440 --> 00:40:05,640 So important to get that right in the repaired buildings. 490 00:40:05,640 --> 00:40:09,760 Looking around, one can see that mostly in the early '50s, 491 00:40:09,760 --> 00:40:11,760 lime render was used. 492 00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:16,040 That's the great key to giving repaired or recreated buildings 493 00:40:16,040 --> 00:40:18,520 an authentic, artistic feel. 494 00:40:30,200 --> 00:40:33,760 Almost 60 years since I last came here with my school, 495 00:40:33,760 --> 00:40:37,960 I've been given privileged access to go inside. 496 00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:43,040 Let's have a look. 497 00:40:46,760 --> 00:40:51,040 'Like outside, the interiors are a happy marriage of what survived 498 00:40:51,040 --> 00:40:55,680 'in place, what was salvaged, and what was recreated.' 499 00:40:55,680 --> 00:40:58,280 Oh, my goodness me. Look at this. 500 00:40:59,280 --> 00:41:01,040 God, this is wonderful! 501 00:41:02,040 --> 00:41:06,520 I mean, some must be repaired, but mostly it seems authentic. 502 00:41:06,520 --> 00:41:11,240 I had no idea of the quality. It's just not facades that survive. 503 00:41:11,240 --> 00:41:14,760 This is an entire historic building. 504 00:41:19,760 --> 00:41:22,040 'It was down to a stroke of good fortune 505 00:41:22,040 --> 00:41:24,520 'that these interiors survived. 506 00:41:24,520 --> 00:41:28,280 'The houses had been fireproofed just before the war.' 507 00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:38,240 Oh! A huge staircase. Look at this. 508 00:41:38,240 --> 00:41:40,040 A wonderful face, 509 00:41:40,040 --> 00:41:43,880 but not enough wear and tear as the centuries. 510 00:41:43,880 --> 00:41:47,280 So a brilliant piece of recreation, I suppose, 511 00:41:47,280 --> 00:41:50,400 but, my goodness me, it's thoroughly done. 512 00:41:50,400 --> 00:41:52,760 Oh, look, a lovely bunch of grapes. 513 00:41:52,760 --> 00:41:57,040 So one knows we're in the world of good wine. Feasting. 514 00:41:57,040 --> 00:42:00,040 So up to the bedroom level, 515 00:42:00,040 --> 00:42:03,400 originally, the family level. 516 00:42:04,760 --> 00:42:08,040 I'll go through...and along. 517 00:42:09,040 --> 00:42:12,000 Oh...oh! Good heavens. 518 00:42:12,000 --> 00:42:14,280 They're full of treasures, these houses, 519 00:42:14,280 --> 00:42:17,760 completely amazing, unexpected discoveries. 520 00:42:17,760 --> 00:42:19,520 A miraculous survival. 521 00:42:19,520 --> 00:42:22,360 Biblical scenes on this painted ceiling. 522 00:42:22,360 --> 00:42:24,280 Look at it. 523 00:42:24,280 --> 00:42:27,040 I had no idea this was here. 524 00:42:27,040 --> 00:42:29,520 Early 18th century, I suppose. 525 00:42:29,520 --> 00:42:31,520 A...picturesque scene. 526 00:42:31,520 --> 00:42:35,040 A ruined castle, a chap crossing the bridge with his cow. 527 00:42:36,600 --> 00:42:38,960 The colours now muted, of course. 528 00:42:40,760 --> 00:42:43,720 But isn't it amazing it's here, this ceiling? 529 00:42:43,720 --> 00:42:45,520 That it survives at all. 530 00:42:45,520 --> 00:42:48,040 The epicentre, this heart of darkness, 531 00:42:48,040 --> 00:42:51,040 this mouth of hell in late 1944, 532 00:42:51,040 --> 00:42:56,040 everything being consumed by fire, set by these vengeful Nazis, 533 00:42:56,040 --> 00:42:59,760 yet, in some magical way, this fragile ceiling of timber, 534 00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:02,880 with these biblical scenes survived. 535 00:43:04,040 --> 00:43:05,720 Good heavens. 536 00:43:13,760 --> 00:43:17,360 While the people of Warsaw tried to put the horrors of the Nazis 537 00:43:17,360 --> 00:43:20,560 behind them, they lived under the shadow of Stalinism. 538 00:43:22,760 --> 00:43:25,520 But when I arrived here in late 1956, 539 00:43:25,520 --> 00:43:28,960 the tide of Soviet oppression seemed to be turning. 540 00:43:32,960 --> 00:43:35,760 Stalin was dead and all over Eastern Europe, 541 00:43:35,760 --> 00:43:39,200 people were rejecting rule from Moscow. 542 00:43:40,200 --> 00:43:42,760 The political killings had stopped in Poland, 543 00:43:42,760 --> 00:43:46,400 but people were still struggling for a brighter future. 544 00:43:48,400 --> 00:43:53,280 My father, Gordon, was posted here to report on the momentous changes. 545 00:43:55,760 --> 00:44:00,080 He used to meet fellow journalists in the bar of the Bristol Hotel. 546 00:44:04,240 --> 00:44:05,760 Wiener Schnitzel. 547 00:44:05,760 --> 00:44:09,280 This was my treat as a child in Warsaw. 548 00:44:11,520 --> 00:44:14,040 A Sunday treat. Lovely. 549 00:44:16,520 --> 00:44:20,040 I've got articles in front of me written by my father, 550 00:44:20,040 --> 00:44:22,040 published in the Daily Worker. 551 00:44:22,040 --> 00:44:25,200 October, 1956, headline: 552 00:44:25,200 --> 00:44:27,760 "The Warsaw Way To Socialism. 553 00:44:27,760 --> 00:44:31,760 "These stirring pictures of the great mass movement that swept Poland 554 00:44:31,760 --> 00:44:35,520 "a week ago have come to us from our Warsaw correspondent 555 00:44:35,520 --> 00:44:37,040 "Gordon Cruickshank. 556 00:44:37,040 --> 00:44:41,200 "The enthusiasm and happiness written on their faces 557 00:44:41,200 --> 00:44:43,520 "as the changes become known 558 00:44:43,520 --> 00:44:48,520 "give hope for the future of a democratic socialist Poland." 559 00:44:48,520 --> 00:44:51,520 Pictures here of smiling people, clapping people. 560 00:44:51,520 --> 00:44:54,280 There's a picture here of my father taking notes. 561 00:44:54,280 --> 00:44:56,040 The objective reporter. 562 00:44:56,040 --> 00:44:58,240 My father loved Poland, 563 00:44:58,240 --> 00:45:00,520 he loved Warsaw, he loved the Poles, 564 00:45:00,520 --> 00:45:03,880 because of their spirit, because of their resilience. 565 00:45:03,880 --> 00:45:08,520 And, also, here he saw a nation that was a communist socialist state. 566 00:45:08,520 --> 00:45:11,280 Socialism and communism with a more humane face, 567 00:45:11,280 --> 00:45:15,040 more humane than that associated with Stalin and the Soviet Union. 568 00:45:15,040 --> 00:45:18,760 But history had horrible things in store. 569 00:45:18,760 --> 00:45:23,200 Things started to go wrong and, by 1958, this newsletter, 570 00:45:23,200 --> 00:45:25,040 headline on the front page: 571 00:45:25,040 --> 00:45:28,760 "Gordon Cruickshank Quits Daily Worker And The Communist Party. 572 00:45:28,760 --> 00:45:33,040 "Cruickshank disagrees with the party's fundamental political line, 573 00:45:33,040 --> 00:45:37,280 "and in particular with its attitude to the treatment of Jews 574 00:45:37,280 --> 00:45:39,640 "in the Soviet Union." 575 00:45:39,640 --> 00:45:42,040 For my father, any... 576 00:45:42,040 --> 00:45:44,760 form of anti-Semitic behaviour, 577 00:45:44,760 --> 00:45:47,760 any racism, was intolerable, impossible. 578 00:45:47,760 --> 00:45:50,280 He believed in a world of equality. 579 00:45:51,280 --> 00:45:54,040 He'd supported the idea of communism for decades 580 00:45:54,040 --> 00:45:56,520 but had to give it all up on principle. 581 00:45:57,760 --> 00:45:59,880 The fact that... 582 00:45:59,880 --> 00:46:04,520 he had to resign from the party must have been just absolutely appalling. 583 00:46:04,520 --> 00:46:08,040 Appalling for him, appalling for anybody whose life 584 00:46:08,040 --> 00:46:11,040 had been dedicated to an ideal and the ideal crumbles. 585 00:46:11,040 --> 00:46:13,000 What do you do? Gosh. 586 00:46:13,000 --> 00:46:15,760 The weird thing is that as a child I was not aware. 587 00:46:15,760 --> 00:46:18,040 He did protect me, protect the family 588 00:46:18,040 --> 00:46:21,520 from what must have been terrible, terrible turmoil, 589 00:46:21,520 --> 00:46:24,280 turbulence of mind. 590 00:46:25,280 --> 00:46:26,560 Gosh. 591 00:46:27,560 --> 00:46:31,040 In the end, of course, it all, sort of, in a way... 592 00:46:31,040 --> 00:46:32,960 came to nothing. 593 00:46:32,960 --> 00:46:37,280 The world he supported and hoped he would see triumph 594 00:46:37,280 --> 00:46:39,520 crumbled and was swept away 595 00:46:39,520 --> 00:46:42,520 or, worse than that, worse than that, of course, 596 00:46:42,520 --> 00:46:44,520 it was... 597 00:46:44,520 --> 00:46:48,760 revealed to be rotten under the Soviets, under Stalin. 598 00:47:01,280 --> 00:47:05,520 Coming back here after so many years has allowed me to fill in the gaps 599 00:47:05,520 --> 00:47:07,280 in my memories. 600 00:47:12,520 --> 00:47:15,360 There's still one that stands out, though. 601 00:47:15,360 --> 00:47:17,640 It's of the biggest bombsite of all. 602 00:47:18,640 --> 00:47:20,760 It was at the end of my street. 603 00:47:23,760 --> 00:47:27,800 What I didn't know was that it signified a hole in the heart 604 00:47:27,800 --> 00:47:29,920 of the rebuilt Warsaw. 605 00:47:31,920 --> 00:47:35,280 It was the site of the city's grandest pre-war building - 606 00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:37,600 the Royal Castle. 607 00:47:56,600 --> 00:48:00,280 For years, it was a step too far for the Communists to embrace 608 00:48:00,280 --> 00:48:03,120 the glories of Poland's royal past. 609 00:48:04,280 --> 00:48:08,040 But the people fought long and hard to get their castle back. 610 00:48:08,040 --> 00:48:13,040 Finally, their dream came true, and work started in 1971. 611 00:48:17,840 --> 00:48:21,040 The story of the reconstruction of the castle 612 00:48:21,040 --> 00:48:24,760 is one of the most heroic stories in a city of heroes. 613 00:48:24,760 --> 00:48:28,520 It was paid for with money collected from Poles throughout the world, 614 00:48:28,520 --> 00:48:31,760 with some money deposited in a box on the site. 615 00:48:31,760 --> 00:48:34,520 You might think that after 25 years or so, 616 00:48:34,520 --> 00:48:36,760 there wouldn't be much left to rebuild. 617 00:48:36,760 --> 00:48:41,280 But Warsaw had planned for this day as far back as 1939. 618 00:48:52,280 --> 00:48:55,520 The castle had been seriously damaged by German bombs 619 00:48:55,520 --> 00:48:58,280 during the invasion in September of that year. 620 00:49:05,240 --> 00:49:08,040 Curators and architects risked their lives 621 00:49:08,040 --> 00:49:10,520 salvaging the treasures of the castle. 622 00:49:10,520 --> 00:49:14,520 Within three weeks, 80% of what survived had been carried off 623 00:49:14,520 --> 00:49:18,280 to safe storage in the vaults of the National Museum. 624 00:49:18,280 --> 00:49:21,280 But, even after Nazi occupation of Warsaw, 625 00:49:21,280 --> 00:49:25,040 the work continued with panelling, fireplaces, 626 00:49:25,040 --> 00:49:28,520 fragments of plasterwork and doors being carried off, 627 00:49:28,520 --> 00:49:30,520 but they had to be clever. 628 00:49:30,520 --> 00:49:33,280 Sometimes, the doors would be used to carry off rubble, 629 00:49:33,280 --> 00:49:35,720 the rubble disguising the historic door, 630 00:49:35,720 --> 00:49:37,760 and then the door put in storage. 631 00:49:37,760 --> 00:49:40,040 But the post-war politics of Poland 632 00:49:40,040 --> 00:49:43,760 meant it was 30 years before these fragments were reused, 633 00:49:43,760 --> 00:49:49,560 in the last great stage in the reconstruction of historic Warsaw. 634 00:49:57,520 --> 00:50:01,040 The castle enjoyed its apogee during the 18th century 635 00:50:01,040 --> 00:50:03,480 under King Stanislaw August. 636 00:50:04,480 --> 00:50:06,800 It's my first visit here 637 00:50:06,800 --> 00:50:11,040 and the vainglorious portraits of the King and the lavish interiors 638 00:50:11,040 --> 00:50:15,400 show why a communist government might balk at the idea of rebuilding it. 639 00:50:16,760 --> 00:50:20,040 It's the very stuff that inspires revolutions. 640 00:50:21,680 --> 00:50:26,520 Like all buildings, the Royal Castle has had its ups and downs. 641 00:50:26,520 --> 00:50:29,760 And, in a nation like Poland, with such a turbulent history, 642 00:50:29,760 --> 00:50:33,280 these ups and downs have been very extreme, 643 00:50:33,280 --> 00:50:37,760 so it makes sense, in the recreation of the castle's interior, 644 00:50:37,760 --> 00:50:41,040 to commemorate those moments in the history of the nation 645 00:50:41,040 --> 00:50:45,280 when Poland has been at its most prosperous and most independent. 646 00:50:50,520 --> 00:50:53,760 Rebuilding the castle in all its 18th century finery 647 00:50:53,760 --> 00:50:58,040 was a huge challenge because it was a work of art in itself, 648 00:50:58,040 --> 00:51:01,200 with the most elegant neo-classical interiors, 649 00:51:01,200 --> 00:51:03,280 renowned around the world. 650 00:51:18,760 --> 00:51:23,720 This is one of the great 18th century royal rooms of Europe. 651 00:51:23,720 --> 00:51:26,520 And the world was shocked 652 00:51:26,520 --> 00:51:30,560 when it was virtually destroyed by German bombing in 1939, 653 00:51:30,560 --> 00:51:33,440 and now it lives again... 654 00:51:34,920 --> 00:51:37,440 ..bright and sparkling... 655 00:51:38,440 --> 00:51:43,040 ..as good as the day it was first completed in the 1780s. 656 00:51:43,040 --> 00:51:45,040 Wonderful, isn't it? 657 00:51:50,760 --> 00:51:54,600 The reconstruction was an extraordinary labour of love. 658 00:51:56,000 --> 00:51:59,120 Teams of conservationists and artists 659 00:51:59,120 --> 00:52:02,040 worked painstakingly to salvage what they could 660 00:52:02,040 --> 00:52:05,520 or else recreate details from old photographs. 661 00:52:17,040 --> 00:52:19,600 This is the Royal Chapel. 662 00:52:19,600 --> 00:52:24,520 It's a splendid neo-classical design of the 1770s. 663 00:52:24,520 --> 00:52:29,200 It contains eight columns, six of which are old. 664 00:52:29,200 --> 00:52:32,280 How on earth they survived buried amongst the ruins, 665 00:52:32,280 --> 00:52:34,160 I've absolutely no idea. 666 00:52:34,160 --> 00:52:37,760 Also, a lot of those rosettes are old as well. 667 00:52:37,760 --> 00:52:43,040 Here, old work and new work has been very skilfully integrated 668 00:52:43,040 --> 00:52:45,960 to recreate a most wonderful thing. 669 00:52:45,960 --> 00:52:48,280 It's as if the war never happened, 670 00:52:48,280 --> 00:52:51,040 the horrors of war never befell this place. 671 00:52:51,040 --> 00:52:53,760 I suppose that's just the point. 672 00:53:10,520 --> 00:53:12,560 Goodness me, look at this. 673 00:53:15,760 --> 00:53:18,520 What's really exciting about the castle 674 00:53:18,520 --> 00:53:23,280 is the way its brilliantly recreated interiors, sumptuous and gilded, 675 00:53:23,280 --> 00:53:28,520 so convincingly evoke those days of Poland's power and glory 676 00:53:28,520 --> 00:53:33,760 when, in the 18th century, Warsaw was one of the world's great cities. 677 00:53:33,760 --> 00:53:38,040 This is the throne room and it's almost overwhelming. 678 00:53:38,040 --> 00:53:40,520 Behind me is the throne 679 00:53:40,520 --> 00:53:44,760 and its display of Polish eagles made out of silver bullion. 680 00:53:44,760 --> 00:53:49,280 The originals were looted in 1939 by German soldiers, 681 00:53:49,280 --> 00:53:52,040 but, incredibly, one of these eagles 682 00:53:52,040 --> 00:53:55,760 was found in 1991 in the United States 683 00:53:55,760 --> 00:53:59,520 and that was brought back here and copied to reproduce the others, 684 00:53:59,520 --> 00:54:02,760 giving the whole thing a sense of utter authenticity. 685 00:54:02,760 --> 00:54:06,040 Of course, it shows that recreating the past 686 00:54:06,040 --> 00:54:08,160 is a never-ending journey. 687 00:54:18,040 --> 00:54:22,240 The reconstruction of old Warsaw raises many big questions, 688 00:54:22,240 --> 00:54:23,960 especially today. 689 00:54:25,360 --> 00:54:30,240 It works aesthetically, but was it ethically the right thing to do? 690 00:54:33,040 --> 00:54:36,520 To ponder this, I've come Lazienki Park. 691 00:54:36,520 --> 00:54:39,240 It's an enchanted place. 692 00:54:42,240 --> 00:54:44,520 I can see my younger self here, 693 00:54:44,520 --> 00:54:47,280 playing hide and seek with the statues. 694 00:54:50,480 --> 00:54:53,760 It's all neo-classical pomp and opulence. 695 00:54:53,760 --> 00:54:57,360 No wonder the Germans occupied the Palace during the war. 696 00:54:57,360 --> 00:55:01,760 They did their damnedest to destroy it before they left. 697 00:55:03,360 --> 00:55:07,880 After the war, the Palace and gardens were rebuilt like the Old Town. 698 00:55:13,760 --> 00:55:17,280 The large scale of the reconstruction of the Old Town 699 00:55:17,280 --> 00:55:20,040 and its meticulously correct detailing 700 00:55:20,040 --> 00:55:23,400 was unprecedented in the 1950s. 701 00:55:23,400 --> 00:55:27,040 Then, the prevailing architectural philosophy 702 00:55:27,040 --> 00:55:31,040 in approaching the reconstruction of war-damaged historic towns 703 00:55:31,040 --> 00:55:36,040 was to be truthful and to rebuild in a generally modern manner. 704 00:55:36,040 --> 00:55:40,040 That approach was rooted in 19th century theory 705 00:55:40,040 --> 00:55:45,320 represented very well by the art historian and theorist John Ruskin, 706 00:55:45,320 --> 00:55:49,280 who, in the mid-19th century wrote that it was impossible, 707 00:55:49,280 --> 00:55:51,760 as impossible as to raise the dead, 708 00:55:51,760 --> 00:55:56,840 to restore anything that had been great or beautiful in architecture. 709 00:55:58,840 --> 00:56:00,880 But, of course, recreating the dead 710 00:56:00,880 --> 00:56:03,800 was exactly what the people of Warsaw wanted to do. 711 00:56:03,800 --> 00:56:07,760 They wanted it to appear that the war and the Nazi barbarity 712 00:56:07,760 --> 00:56:09,640 had not happened. 713 00:56:09,640 --> 00:56:14,000 What the Poles wanted to do was to recreate it as a vital, 714 00:56:14,000 --> 00:56:16,120 total work of art. 715 00:56:29,640 --> 00:56:35,240 Fast-forward 70 years and World War II is a distant memory. 716 00:56:35,240 --> 00:56:39,040 Poland is now a member of the European Union 717 00:56:39,040 --> 00:56:42,000 and Warsaw has become a boom town, 718 00:56:42,000 --> 00:56:47,320 with high-rise buildings dominating its 21st century skyline. 719 00:56:47,320 --> 00:56:50,480 The latest is called the Spire. 720 00:56:50,480 --> 00:56:54,040 When completed, it'll be the city's second tallest building, 721 00:56:54,040 --> 00:56:56,520 after the Palace of Culture. 722 00:57:12,040 --> 00:57:16,320 Warsaw's resurrection is miraculous. 723 00:57:16,320 --> 00:57:21,520 70 years ago, nearly 90% of the city had been destroyed. 724 00:57:21,520 --> 00:57:25,120 A place of despair and desolation. 725 00:57:25,120 --> 00:57:28,560 Now, as you can see, it lives again. 726 00:57:32,040 --> 00:57:36,520 In a world where history is once again under attack from extremism, 727 00:57:36,520 --> 00:57:39,600 there is much we can learn from Warsaw. 728 00:57:44,320 --> 00:57:46,520 A revived confidence in the future 729 00:57:46,520 --> 00:57:49,040 is expressed through the new architecture. 730 00:57:49,040 --> 00:57:53,520 Old buildings have been reconstructed with passion and verve. 731 00:57:53,520 --> 00:57:56,040 Is it possible to bring back the dead? 732 00:57:56,040 --> 00:57:58,520 Yes, if done with commitment, 733 00:57:58,520 --> 00:58:01,760 with determination and with love. 97708

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