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BELL CHIMES
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It's Easter in Poland's capital,
Warsaw.
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The people gather to commemorate
the crucifixion of Christ...
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and the resurrection.
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I haven't been back to Warsaw
since I lived here as a child.
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I was seven
when I moved here with my family.
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My father had a job in the city.
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It is of course strange to be back.
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I'm sure much has changed,
but also much, to me, seems the same.
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It is, in a sense, like coming home.
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What is certain though, to me,
is that what I saw here,
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what I felt here as a child has
had a huge influence on my life.
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I'm going to explore my memories...
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..the memories of the city...
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..and the memories of its people.
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Warsaw was victim of one
of the most atrocious
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crimes of the 20th century,
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when Hitler's Nazis tried to wipe
it off the face of the earth.
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No city in modern history
has endured such appalling
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devastation and loss.
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No city has had the courage
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and willpower to rise up
from the ashes...
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and to rebuild the past.
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We're now used to intolerance
and to attacks on beauty and culture.
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The Poles, in their courageous
recreation of their lost city,
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the regaining of their lost beauty,
are an inspiration for all of us.
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Warsaw is the city that came
back from the dead,
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in the most miraculous
of resurrections.
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In the summer of 1956,
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the Cruickshank family sailed
eastwards on MS Batory.
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We were heading for a new
home in Poland.
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At the age of seven,
this was my first adventure abroad.
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It was all because my father, Gordon,
had a job as a journalist
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with the London Daily Worker,
a communist newspaper.
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Now that idea seems unusual,
outlandish even.
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After all, we were
going behind the Iron Curtain to
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Warsaw at the height
of the Cold War.
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It was a decade or so after
the end of the World War II,
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which had left the city devastated.
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I was last here in Warsaw
almost 60 years ago,
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I was very young, but I have been
back many times in my imagination.
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I think about it an awful lot.
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My memory is that the city was
almost still a smoking
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ruin from the war.
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This is the stuff of my dreams,
you know.
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Absolutely amazing experience.
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There are things I'm now noticing,
these great statutes which,
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for a child, would have been
terribly attractive
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and should be burnt into my memory.
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And for a child of seven,
it was utterly romantic.
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I loved it. I loved the ruins.
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It was a trip into the dark
recesses of my mind,
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a trip into what was one of the very
dark places of Earth in the 1950s.
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I'm on my way to the Old Town
of Warsaw, where we used to live.
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It dates back to
the mid-17th century,
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but had been almost
levelled during the war.
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When I was last here, most of it
had been recently rebuilt.
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HE LAUGHS
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This is amazing.
Walking back into my own childhood.
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This is the market place, the market
square - the heart of the Old Town.
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This is where I grew up.
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I often think about this space.
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A wonderful, mellow atmosphere
the buildings have, antique
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and ancient in feel.
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Charming, these astonishing moments.
Stabbing memories. Laser-like.
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Suddenly little things I've forgotten
for nearly 60 years come back.
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I remember being entranced
by the Old Town.
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The bold colours, yellow ochre.
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And, of course, the vivid,
Baroque detail everywhere.
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It's hard to believe that
most of this was meticulously
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recreated just 60 years ago.
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Amazing - I remember those,
the putti with the goat,
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and naughty little boys,
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naughty fellows with their baskets
of grapes, Bacchanalian scene...
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musical parade, tambourines.
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Now, the thing is...to work out
exactly where I lived.
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I've got here, as it happens...
It may seem strange that
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I should keep such things, but I
didn't - my mother did, or my father.
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It's my exercise book from school,
when I went to school in Warsaw.
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Here it is.
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"5th of September 1957."
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It's a mathematical problem
that I had to solve then.
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I fear... I don't know,
I think I got it right.
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But here we are, look.
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"Swietojanska",
which is St John's Street.
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Number 33, flat two.
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Swietojanska, St John's Street,
number 33/2, first floor.
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That's our living room
and our kitchen up there.
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What a lovely building.
What a lovely place to live.
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This is my door.
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BUZZER
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Ah!
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Oh, the staircase.
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Ah, well, there you go,
number two.
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As on my school exercise book.
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Good heavens. OK. Ah.
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HE KNOCKS
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HE LAUGHS
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It's bizarre. Um. Ah!
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Hello. Ah, hi,
my name is Dan Cruickshank.
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I used to live here.
Many, many years ago.
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OK.
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The new tenant of my old home
is Bert Coslow from Texas.
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Can I just look through the window?
Please, go ahead.
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'It's a moment I've
dreamt about for years.'
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Well, well, well, well, well.
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Now, I made a series of drawings
from this very window.
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You made this from this window?
From this window.
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And how old were you? Well, I was
seven, I was about seven years old.
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It's quite good for a
seven-year-old. Oh, is it?
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Thank you. You can clearly see,
looking at this, to me there is
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no doubt in my mind what's
being portrayed.
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I suppose what enthralled me
was, of course, that these
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are things calculated to really
engage children.
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I mean, the lion over there.
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And this sort of dragon finial
at the top. Yeah.
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And, of course, the amazing clock.
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And then the view in
to the square itself.
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00:09:08,880 --> 00:09:11,960
And these are very interesting
drawings, I can say that myself.
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It's such a long time ago, isn't it?
It's hardly me.
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But the detail, the loving detail,
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the observation does suggest
the beginnings of my passion
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for architecture, which becomes the
ruling thing of my life.
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Seems to be, seems to be that
the foundations
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are certainly here in 1957.
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Clearly, this drawing,
this view from here,
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through this window, of this space,
is where it all starts for me. Yeah.
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Something big has changed
since I was last here.
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00:09:59,920 --> 00:10:03,960
The old market square has
a happy-go-lucky atmosphere...
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not the muted,
solemn place of my memories.
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You see, the scene I just walked
past, the chap in the wheelchair
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with no legs, that's it,
that's what I remember. Amazing.
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Damaged people, physically damaged
people from the uprising,
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from the war.
Mentally damaged people.
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And here is a chap sitting there,
as if it was 60 years ago.
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That was very odd.
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As a seven-year-old,
I didn't understand how
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dreadfully Warsaw had suffered
during the Second World War.
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I was fortunate not to witness
the death and destruction.
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00:10:51,640 --> 00:10:55,360
But there were reminders
of it all over the city.
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Shrines commemorating
the victims of the war.
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It was a city risen from the ruins,
a city mourning the dead.
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It went far beyond the destruction
that might be anticipated in war.
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In fact, Warsaw was
the victim of a war crime almost
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unprecedented in history, a crime
premeditated by the Nazis
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even before the war started.
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Hitler set out to eradicate
Warsaw and annihilate its people.
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The damning evidence is to be found
at the Institute of National
Remembrance,
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which holds records of
Nazi atrocities against Poland.
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Hitler's intentions were clinically
laid out in a series of plans
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named after Friedrich Pabst, the
Nazis' "Chief Architect for Warsaw"
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This set of plans...is chilling...
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shocking.
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They detail the near total
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obliteration of Warsaw
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and its replacement by a smaller town
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for German settlers and officials.
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They're dated. Here we have
the 6th of February, 1940.
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And culminate with
a proposal for its destruction.
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This is why it's chilling.
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A rather lovingly detailed
and created model of the old city
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of Warsaw, in the 17th century.
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And then here we see its replacement,
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removal, by this rather
banal looking -
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architecturally banal looking -
German settlement,
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Really depressing, really depressing.
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But also another detail so revealing.
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The parts of the Old Town,
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of Warsaw's Stare Miasto,
are left in place, because
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the Nazis had perceived within
the fabric of the Old Town
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some Germanic qualities.
They wanted to keep the Old Town
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because, in a sense,
preserving it suggested that
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the Germans were here before.
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It justified their...
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determination to annexe Poland
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and to create this Germanic
settlement on the site of Warsaw.
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This is, of course,
an attack on architectural history
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and on architectural beauty.
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But the bigger thing is it reflects
Hitler's and the Nazis' hatred
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of Poland and the Poles.
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To destroy Warsaw was to destroy
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Polish pride, Polish identity,
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Polish hopes for the future.
That's what this is really about.
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00:14:08,680 --> 00:14:11,480
Poland's descent into hell
began with the German
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invasion on 1st September, 1939.
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It caused the outbreak
of World War II.
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Wanda Traczyk-Stawska lived through
the horrors of Nazi occupation.
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It would be almost five years
before Warsaw fought back,
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when the Polish home army tried to
drive the Germans out of the city.
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00:16:05,720 --> 00:16:09,640
The uprising, which started on
the 1st August, 1944,
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lasted 63 days.
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The Poles exhibited great heroism
and self sacrifice.
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But, in the end, the Nazis crushed
them with shocking brutality.
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Wanda was one of many women who
took up arms against the Nazis.
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00:16:33,920 --> 00:16:36,720
How do you feel now, 70 years on
or so, from the uprising?
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00:16:36,720 --> 00:16:39,400
Do you feel it was
doomed from the beginning?
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00:16:39,400 --> 00:16:42,360
Was it worth
the destruction of Warsaw?
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00:17:11,760 --> 00:17:15,160
But the consequences were appalling,
as Hitler ordered
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Warsaw to be razed to the ground.
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00:17:24,640 --> 00:17:26,400
This computer graphic reveals
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the enormity of the destruction.
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00:17:31,120 --> 00:17:33,600
The Old Town,
one of the centres of Polish
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00:17:33,600 --> 00:17:37,320
resistance during the uprising,
was systematically destroyed.
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00:17:38,800 --> 00:17:41,880
Historic buildings, including
the castle, were set ablaze
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00:17:41,880 --> 00:17:44,240
and blown up with high explosives.
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00:17:47,560 --> 00:17:50,800
The Jewish ghetto, the largest
in Nazi-controlled Europe,
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00:17:50,800 --> 00:17:56,080
had been levelled in 1943 and its
population virtually wiped out,
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00:17:56,080 --> 00:17:59,120
either in the city
or extermination camps.
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00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:05,200
By the end of the war,
nearly 90% of Warsaw lay in ruins.
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00:18:07,160 --> 00:18:09,760
But this was not
the end of the nightmare.
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00:18:13,040 --> 00:18:16,160
The Poles had been encouraged
to rise up by the Soviets,
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00:18:16,160 --> 00:18:18,240
who were closing in on Warsaw.
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00:18:21,120 --> 00:18:24,840
But then they stood by
and let the Nazis destroy the city
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00:18:24,840 --> 00:18:28,080
and undermine Poland's
battle for independence.
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00:18:30,840 --> 00:18:33,320
They had plans of their own.
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00:18:54,440 --> 00:18:58,520
The human cost of the uprising
was huge.
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00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:02,000
The population of Warsaw had been
crushed by the brutal
218
00:19:02,000 --> 00:19:03,760
and vengeful Nazis.
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00:19:03,760 --> 00:19:07,280
Around 200,000 people had died.
220
00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:10,840
And now they faced a future under
the yoke of the Soviet Union,
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00:19:10,840 --> 00:19:15,040
which had betrayed them
in their hour of need.
222
00:19:15,040 --> 00:19:19,040
The future of Warsaw as a capital
city hung in the balance.
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00:19:24,040 --> 00:19:28,080
All hope of Poland regaining
its independence was finally dashed,
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00:19:28,080 --> 00:19:31,600
as it passed from one totalitarian
overlord to another.
225
00:19:34,200 --> 00:19:38,800
It became a Soviet puppet state, led
by a hardline Stalinist government.
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00:19:41,560 --> 00:19:45,400
By 1956, the regime had arrested
250,000 Poles
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00:19:45,400 --> 00:19:48,880
regarded as "traitors"
for fighting to establish a free
228
00:19:48,880 --> 00:19:50,720
and independent nation.
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00:19:53,680 --> 00:19:59,200
20,000 died in prison and 3,000 were
executed...
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00:19:59,200 --> 00:20:01,600
their fate kept secret.
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00:20:06,080 --> 00:20:09,480
Given what we now know, it might seem
shocking that it was
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00:20:09,480 --> 00:20:13,320
my father's communist convictions
that brought us to Warsaw.
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00:20:16,360 --> 00:20:20,520
Gordon Cruickshank is the
correspondent here
for London Daily Worker.
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00:20:20,520 --> 00:20:25,600
In 1957, he was interviewed
by Christopher Chataway for the BBC.
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00:20:25,600 --> 00:20:29,880
What proportion of the ordinary
people do you think are really
communists?
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00:20:29,880 --> 00:20:33,360
I would say that the vast
mass of the Polish people,
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00:20:33,360 --> 00:20:35,560
to my mind and from my experience...
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00:20:37,440 --> 00:20:40,120
..support a socialist economy.
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00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:42,640
That is to say they don't want
landlords back,
240
00:20:42,640 --> 00:20:47,080
they don't want private ownership of
factories and industry back at all.
241
00:20:50,000 --> 00:20:53,120
My father was not
alone in his beliefs.
242
00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:58,480
Like many, he'd become a communist
in the late 1930s to fight fascism.
243
00:20:58,480 --> 00:21:01,080
And, despite the brutal
reality of Stalinism,
244
00:21:01,080 --> 00:21:04,840
he still believed that communism
could help build a better world.
245
00:21:09,960 --> 00:21:14,040
Back in 1945, Poland's Stalinist
government had taken
246
00:21:14,040 --> 00:21:18,040
the decision to rebuild
Warsaw as the capital.
247
00:21:18,040 --> 00:21:20,760
But they weren't
interested in the old city -
248
00:21:20,760 --> 00:21:23,480
they had a vision
for a socialist utopia.
249
00:21:29,920 --> 00:21:33,080
They built a state of the art
transport network,
250
00:21:33,080 --> 00:21:36,840
with brand-new trams to replace
the ones destroyed during the war.
251
00:21:40,520 --> 00:21:42,920
I remember being frightened
of trams as a child here.
252
00:21:42,920 --> 00:21:44,280
There weren't trams in London.
253
00:21:44,280 --> 00:21:47,120
I was particularly
fearful of the junctions.
254
00:21:47,120 --> 00:21:50,880
I saw an accident at a junction,
which of course confirmed that
255
00:21:50,880 --> 00:21:54,920
I was right to be fearful of these
frightful devices, these trams.
256
00:21:58,040 --> 00:22:00,240
Um... Ah, I press the button
to get on.
257
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:03,640
Ah, here we go, this is lovely.
258
00:22:13,600 --> 00:22:15,320
We're going down this great avenue,
259
00:22:15,320 --> 00:22:19,440
the great Stalinist avenue
in reconstructed Warsaw.
260
00:22:19,440 --> 00:22:23,760
Each side are these neo-classical
blocks, clad with stone mostly.
261
00:22:25,080 --> 00:22:28,760
This was, of course, the Soviet
vision for the new Warsaw.
262
00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:38,840
Oh, look,
there's the Palace of Culture.
263
00:22:43,760 --> 00:22:46,920
'The Palace of Culture and Science -
Russia's gift to Warsaw -
264
00:22:46,920 --> 00:22:50,280
'looks down on the Polish capital's
National Day parade.
265
00:22:50,280 --> 00:22:53,520
'The Poles are a determined people
and their capital is rapidly
266
00:22:53,520 --> 00:22:57,040
'regaining its position as one
of Europe's most beautiful cities.
267
00:22:57,040 --> 00:23:00,040
'And it's not only their buildings
that look good.'
268
00:23:01,040 --> 00:23:03,760
The Palace was completed in 1955,
269
00:23:03,760 --> 00:23:07,120
so, virtually new
when I arrived in the city.
270
00:23:07,120 --> 00:23:10,760
And, even as a young child, I soon
learned that the people of Warsaw
271
00:23:10,760 --> 00:23:15,520
did not like this unwelcome gift
from the Soviet authorities.
272
00:23:15,520 --> 00:23:19,520
They regarded it as a cynical
and calculated imposition,
273
00:23:19,520 --> 00:23:23,520
and hardly a gift as it was largely
paid for by the Soviet exploitation
274
00:23:23,520 --> 00:23:25,760
of Poland's natural resources.
275
00:23:25,760 --> 00:23:29,560
And, architecturally, there were
already seven towers like this
276
00:23:29,560 --> 00:23:32,720
in Moscow,
called Stalin's Seven Sisters,
277
00:23:32,720 --> 00:23:36,720
so, for the people of Warsaw,
this was no more than a Soviet brand
278
00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:39,760
burnt into the soul of their city.
279
00:23:46,280 --> 00:23:48,760
At 231 metres,
280
00:23:48,760 --> 00:23:51,440
it's still Poland's tallest building
281
00:23:51,440 --> 00:23:55,920
and, love it or loathe it,
it has become THE symbol of Warsaw.
282
00:24:01,760 --> 00:24:07,040
The rebuilding of Warsaw after 1945
was a complex business.
283
00:24:07,040 --> 00:24:11,760
Very quickly, two parallel visions
started to emerge.
284
00:24:11,760 --> 00:24:16,760
One was for the creation
of a typical Soviet-style city
285
00:24:16,760 --> 00:24:19,760
with straight boulevards -
you can see one over there,
286
00:24:19,760 --> 00:24:22,280
lined with stone-clad
apartment blocks,
287
00:24:22,280 --> 00:24:24,560
for the official families, I suppose.
288
00:24:24,560 --> 00:24:28,760
And concrete-built
housing estates over there,
289
00:24:28,760 --> 00:24:31,280
rather grim, for the workers.
290
00:24:32,800 --> 00:24:36,280
The other vision was inspired
by Warsaw history,
291
00:24:36,280 --> 00:24:39,280
for the recreation of the Old Town.
292
00:24:39,280 --> 00:24:42,800
And you can see the Old Town
over there, ultimately recreated,
293
00:24:42,800 --> 00:24:46,040
characterised by low-rise
red pantile roofs,
294
00:24:46,040 --> 00:24:47,760
a dash of exotic colour.
295
00:24:47,760 --> 00:24:51,120
That vision was driven by
the people of Warsaw.
296
00:24:51,120 --> 00:24:56,280
The loss of the beloved Old Town
to Nazi barbarity was intolerable.
297
00:24:56,280 --> 00:24:58,280
It had to be recreated.
298
00:24:58,280 --> 00:25:00,840
A great wrong had to be put right.
299
00:25:08,280 --> 00:25:12,640
As a seven-year-old boy, I wasn't
aware of this clash of styles -
300
00:25:12,640 --> 00:25:16,040
the gargantuan Stalinist edifice
that touched the sky
301
00:25:16,040 --> 00:25:19,520
versus the quaint 'old' houses
and beautiful square
302
00:25:19,520 --> 00:25:21,240
which I loved.
303
00:25:23,240 --> 00:25:26,760
What I didn't know then was that
rebuilding the city had been
304
00:25:26,760 --> 00:25:30,120
one of the most daunting
reconstruction jobs in history.
305
00:25:31,280 --> 00:25:36,960
In January 1945, it must have felt
like the end of the world in Warsaw.
306
00:25:44,360 --> 00:25:47,320
The man who led the campaign
to convince the Communists
307
00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:52,280
to rebuild the past was
Warsaw architect Jan Zachwatowicz.
308
00:25:57,280 --> 00:26:00,040
I've come to visit
his daughter Krystyna,
309
00:26:00,040 --> 00:26:04,040
who, as a teenager, had fought
in the Warsaw uprising.
310
00:26:05,640 --> 00:26:09,360
Your father's spontaneous reaction
was to rebuild the city
311
00:26:09,360 --> 00:26:12,280
because it represented
their identity, their pride,
312
00:26:12,280 --> 00:26:15,040
but this had to take place
within a changed world -
313
00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:19,040
the world of a new communist regime.
These things had to be reconciled.
314
00:26:19,040 --> 00:26:22,040
How did your father find it
possible? Was it difficult?
315
00:26:22,040 --> 00:26:24,080
Did he have to persuade
the new authorities
316
00:26:24,080 --> 00:26:25,760
to recreate the historic quarter?
317
00:27:40,760 --> 00:27:43,320
This was Warsaw's year zero.
318
00:27:43,320 --> 00:27:46,280
But the people needed more
than just memories
319
00:27:46,280 --> 00:27:48,760
to bring the past back to life.
320
00:27:48,760 --> 00:27:52,760
With the city so utterly flattened,
they needed something more tangible
321
00:27:52,760 --> 00:27:54,440
to go on.
322
00:27:54,440 --> 00:27:57,520
Plans, paintings or photographs.
323
00:28:06,280 --> 00:28:09,040
I've come to a Warsaw peep show,
324
00:28:09,040 --> 00:28:12,520
which is not what you might think
it is, despite appearances.
325
00:28:12,520 --> 00:28:15,520
It is in fact the Fotoplastikon -
326
00:28:15,520 --> 00:28:19,760
a remarkable institution
that survived both World Wars.
327
00:28:19,760 --> 00:28:22,520
It is now an invaluable
time machine
328
00:28:22,520 --> 00:28:27,040
containing photographs of Warsaw
before its destruction in 1944.
329
00:28:31,280 --> 00:28:33,040
Oh, well, that's lovely.
330
00:28:33,040 --> 00:28:38,360
That is, I suppose, a late 19th
century, exotic, Edwardian scene.
331
00:28:38,360 --> 00:28:41,360
They're 3D. It's amazing.
Oh, this a fantastic image.
332
00:28:41,360 --> 00:28:44,280
This shows the Castle Square.
333
00:28:44,280 --> 00:28:47,520
Now we get insight into
the cosmopolitan and rich
334
00:28:47,520 --> 00:28:50,760
and romantic life of Warsaw
before the destruction.
335
00:28:50,760 --> 00:28:52,400
This is 1895.
336
00:28:53,760 --> 00:28:56,040
Here's a lovely...
337
00:28:56,040 --> 00:28:57,960
big avenue.
338
00:28:57,960 --> 00:28:59,520
looks like Paris.
339
00:29:00,520 --> 00:29:03,520
Oh, the famous steps
Of the Old Town.
340
00:29:03,520 --> 00:29:06,040
A narrow alley of steps.
Not much has changed.
341
00:29:06,040 --> 00:29:09,120
I can probably see myself
walking through that, actually.
342
00:29:18,520 --> 00:29:21,200
This is a fantastic document
343
00:29:21,200 --> 00:29:23,280
to inform the reconstruction.
344
00:29:23,280 --> 00:29:26,520
Essential...that's the sort of
essential information needed
345
00:29:26,520 --> 00:29:28,440
to rebuild the city after the war.
346
00:29:28,440 --> 00:29:31,280
Not just information,
but architectural detail,
347
00:29:31,280 --> 00:29:34,280
which was essential, but also,
in a sense, I suppose,
348
00:29:34,280 --> 00:29:38,040
they encapsulate memories of the
city as a lively, romantic place -
349
00:29:38,040 --> 00:29:40,040
a place with a Parisian quality.
350
00:29:40,040 --> 00:29:43,280
You can fully understand
why the people of Warsaw,
351
00:29:43,280 --> 00:29:47,000
having lost their city, they also
lost the life that went with it.
352
00:29:47,000 --> 00:29:50,040
So it was to recreate, of course,
the architecture
353
00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:53,760
and also, as far as possible,
to recapture and recreate the life
354
00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:57,040
lived within the theatre
of the ancient architecture,
355
00:29:57,040 --> 00:29:58,760
this historic architecture.
356
00:29:58,760 --> 00:30:03,320
Amazing vignette, amazing little
time machine back to what had been
357
00:30:03,320 --> 00:30:07,760
a lost and much regretted period
in the history of the city.
358
00:30:27,360 --> 00:30:30,040
The photographs were a good start,
359
00:30:30,040 --> 00:30:32,760
but the architects delved
further into the past
360
00:30:32,760 --> 00:30:35,280
for a more picturesque muse.
361
00:30:44,640 --> 00:30:48,520
A superb collection of paintings
of Warsaw in this room
362
00:30:48,520 --> 00:30:50,520
were made in the late 1770s
363
00:30:50,520 --> 00:30:53,520
by an Italian artist
called Bernardo Bellotto.
364
00:30:53,520 --> 00:30:55,520
But he tended to use the name
365
00:30:55,520 --> 00:30:58,760
of his more famous artist uncle -
Canaletto.
366
00:31:03,640 --> 00:31:05,760
As a court painter to the king,
367
00:31:05,760 --> 00:31:09,520
he produced 26 cityscapes
for the royal castle.
368
00:31:12,480 --> 00:31:14,760
The second half of the 18th century
369
00:31:14,760 --> 00:31:17,280
was the era
of the Polish Enlightenment
370
00:31:17,280 --> 00:31:22,280
when the nation was at the height of
its prestige, power and prosperity.
371
00:31:27,720 --> 00:31:32,040
These paintings contain lots
of lovely detail, of course,
372
00:31:32,040 --> 00:31:37,840
therefore perfect to use for
the reconstruction of Warsaw.
373
00:31:37,840 --> 00:31:42,720
But there is also, I must say,
a lot of poetic license.
374
00:31:42,720 --> 00:31:46,040
The artist is creating
an ideal vision of Warsaw
375
00:31:46,040 --> 00:31:50,520
and contrives to make it look,
occasionally, rather like Rome.
376
00:31:50,520 --> 00:31:52,520
Why not? The model.
377
00:31:52,520 --> 00:31:54,600
So this, in a way,
is a dream of Warsaw -
378
00:31:54,600 --> 00:31:56,640
a late 18th century dream
of Warsaw.
379
00:31:56,640 --> 00:31:58,760
Warsaw as it ought to have been.
380
00:31:58,760 --> 00:32:01,760
Well, certainly as far as
Bellotto was concerned.
381
00:32:02,760 --> 00:32:05,040
Look at this.
It is absolutely wonderful.
382
00:32:05,040 --> 00:32:07,040
Almost photographic, but not quite,
383
00:32:07,040 --> 00:32:09,520
because things have been
slightly manipulated
384
00:32:09,520 --> 00:32:12,320
for the most powerful
visual architectural effect.
385
00:32:12,320 --> 00:32:15,520
A bit like how Canaletto
made London look like Venice.
386
00:32:15,520 --> 00:32:17,360
Perfectly understandable.
387
00:32:27,240 --> 00:32:29,040
In the grim 1940s,
388
00:32:29,040 --> 00:32:33,040
Bellotto's magical images
were far more real,
389
00:32:33,040 --> 00:32:36,040
more compelling than reality.
390
00:32:36,040 --> 00:32:40,200
They captured the beauty
of the lost past.
391
00:32:51,120 --> 00:32:55,040
Bellotto's paintings alone were not
enough to rebuild the lost city.
392
00:32:55,040 --> 00:32:57,520
Precise, technical drawings
were needed.
393
00:33:03,280 --> 00:33:07,760
Miraculously, plans of the old town,
drawn by architectural students
394
00:33:07,760 --> 00:33:10,280
before the war, also survived.
395
00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:18,520
They were smuggled out of the city
after the uprising under the noses
396
00:33:18,520 --> 00:33:22,680
of the Nazis and hidden in a church
in the coffins of monks.
397
00:33:34,760 --> 00:33:37,880
Here are copies
of some of the drawings.
398
00:33:37,880 --> 00:33:39,760
They're a wonderful quality.
399
00:33:39,760 --> 00:33:43,040
These are really good and informed
architecture students.
400
00:33:43,040 --> 00:33:45,040
They knew their classical details.
401
00:33:45,040 --> 00:33:48,760
Here is the elevation of the block
of buildings opposite me
402
00:33:48,760 --> 00:33:50,280
in the Market Place.
403
00:33:50,280 --> 00:33:53,040
You can see, here they are,
drawn in the 1930s
404
00:33:53,040 --> 00:33:55,280
as they were before destruction
405
00:33:55,280 --> 00:33:57,120
and then as recreated.
406
00:33:57,120 --> 00:34:01,520
And much of that recreation is
based on, inspired by, informed by,
407
00:34:01,520 --> 00:34:03,280
this drawing.
408
00:34:04,280 --> 00:34:06,280
Then there are wonderful details.
409
00:34:06,280 --> 00:34:09,000
For example, one of the houses
opposite is shown in some detail,
410
00:34:09,000 --> 00:34:11,760
there it is,
with that interesting door.
411
00:34:11,760 --> 00:34:14,520
And then there are drawings
of windows and doors.
412
00:34:14,520 --> 00:34:16,600
This one dated 1932.
413
00:34:16,600 --> 00:34:20,800
There's another thing to be extracted
from studying these drawings.
414
00:34:20,800 --> 00:34:22,720
Some of the buildings as recreated
415
00:34:22,720 --> 00:34:25,520
don't exactly correspond to
the 1930s surveys.
416
00:34:25,520 --> 00:34:27,280
They've been tweaked.
417
00:34:27,280 --> 00:34:30,760
Some later details, for example,
19th century doors or shop fronts
418
00:34:30,760 --> 00:34:32,280
were not reconstructed.
419
00:34:32,280 --> 00:34:35,720
Instead, the architects returned
to the world of the 18th century.
420
00:34:35,720 --> 00:34:39,040
So one can see mostly shops
and ground floors
421
00:34:39,040 --> 00:34:41,040
and some windows, as shown here,
422
00:34:41,040 --> 00:34:43,520
are distinctly different
from the recreation,
423
00:34:43,520 --> 00:34:46,760
which is to say, therefore,
that the Old Town of Warsaw
424
00:34:46,760 --> 00:34:51,360
is not an absolute replica
of what was destroyed in 1944,
425
00:34:51,360 --> 00:34:55,280
but a very spirited,
very moving return
426
00:34:55,280 --> 00:34:57,960
to a sort of 18th century ideal.
427
00:35:06,040 --> 00:35:09,520
The plans were the key
to reconstructing the Old Town.
428
00:35:09,520 --> 00:35:13,040
But there was still a terrifying
amount of work to do.
429
00:35:18,760 --> 00:35:22,040
The people didn't want
a Disney-style theme park.
430
00:35:22,040 --> 00:35:24,760
It had to be faithful to the past
431
00:35:24,760 --> 00:35:28,040
so the Old Town became
a huge research laboratory.
432
00:35:29,520 --> 00:35:33,560
Archaeologists sifted through rubble,
salvaging what details they could.
433
00:35:33,560 --> 00:35:38,040
Everybody played their part
in an inspiring grassroots movement
434
00:35:38,040 --> 00:35:41,040
to save their history
and rebuild their past.
435
00:35:43,920 --> 00:35:47,040
Among them was Irena Dawozianska.
436
00:36:58,800 --> 00:37:01,280
As I walk around
the old Market Square,
437
00:37:01,280 --> 00:37:06,040
I try to spot architectural details
that were salvaged from the ruins
438
00:37:06,040 --> 00:37:09,160
or those that were recreated
from scratch.
439
00:37:11,640 --> 00:37:13,800
Memories flood back.
440
00:37:14,800 --> 00:37:18,080
All the charming details
that I sketched as a boy.
441
00:37:19,520 --> 00:37:21,800
Even with all my years
of experience,
442
00:37:21,800 --> 00:37:25,000
I am, at times, hard pushed
to spot the difference.
443
00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:35,000
Among the few buildings to survive
the war, damaged but not destroyed,
444
00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:37,440
was the city museum.
445
00:37:37,440 --> 00:37:40,080
It's a place I loved as a boy.
446
00:37:44,080 --> 00:37:47,280
I long to return
so I meet Anna Zasadzinska,
447
00:37:47,280 --> 00:37:51,520
who works for the museum, which
is currently closed for repairs.
448
00:37:52,520 --> 00:37:55,760
Before the war, the three houses
that we can see in front of us -
449
00:37:55,760 --> 00:37:59,160
the three in the centre -
were bought by the city,
450
00:37:59,160 --> 00:38:01,480
just to create a city museum there.
451
00:38:01,480 --> 00:38:03,880
Are they about the only ones
that survived
452
00:38:03,880 --> 00:38:05,760
in the whole of the Old Town?
453
00:38:05,760 --> 00:38:08,040
There were five in total
that survived
454
00:38:08,040 --> 00:38:11,280
and three of them
we're just seeing now.
455
00:38:11,280 --> 00:38:15,040
Out of many, many hundreds,
five is heartbreaking, isn't it?
456
00:38:15,040 --> 00:38:18,520
90% of the buildings
were destructed.
457
00:38:18,520 --> 00:38:20,040
Oh, gosh.
458
00:38:20,040 --> 00:38:22,760
It must have been very hard
to have lost so much.
459
00:38:22,760 --> 00:38:25,520
But then the reconstruction
is very good, isn't it?
460
00:38:25,520 --> 00:38:26,960
Exactly.
461
00:38:26,960 --> 00:38:32,040
Because after the 60 years, the
Old Town really looks quite old.
462
00:38:32,040 --> 00:38:34,760
Exactly. That's good.
That's exactly right.
463
00:38:34,760 --> 00:38:38,760
It's developed a pattern of age.
The materials have weathered well.
464
00:38:38,760 --> 00:38:42,520
I mean, because, presumably,
the materials that were used -
465
00:38:42,520 --> 00:38:44,760
good stucco, good bricks -
466
00:38:44,760 --> 00:38:48,360
it's aged, it's weathered
very convincingly.
467
00:38:49,920 --> 00:38:52,520
Do you like it? I do. I love it.
468
00:38:59,040 --> 00:39:01,040
Anna, thank you very much.
469
00:39:01,040 --> 00:39:02,520
OK. Up I go.
470
00:39:02,520 --> 00:39:05,520
You're going to stay here. Very wise.
Good luck. Thank you.
471
00:39:05,520 --> 00:39:07,040
Oops.
472
00:39:08,040 --> 00:39:11,040
When I see scaffolding,
my spirits soar.
473
00:39:12,040 --> 00:39:15,040
This group of three houses
that survived the war
474
00:39:15,040 --> 00:39:18,440
gives me the chance to compare
the old with the new.
475
00:39:22,360 --> 00:39:24,760
Now, here we are.
476
00:39:24,760 --> 00:39:28,520
This is one of
the authentic elevations
477
00:39:28,520 --> 00:39:32,760
and it's very exciting to be
so up close to it.
478
00:39:32,760 --> 00:39:35,520
Erm, lovely.
Ah, there's the Moor's Head.
479
00:39:35,520 --> 00:39:39,280
We know this is new,
recreated since the War,
480
00:39:39,280 --> 00:39:40,920
but very well done.
481
00:39:40,920 --> 00:39:43,040
The original is in the museum now.
482
00:39:43,040 --> 00:39:45,760
The key thing is to look at
the materials.
483
00:39:45,760 --> 00:39:47,760
Of course these buildings...
484
00:39:47,760 --> 00:39:50,760
are rendered with lime render,
485
00:39:50,760 --> 00:39:53,080
not, of course, not cement.
486
00:39:53,080 --> 00:39:56,520
And this is a patch
of original treatment.
487
00:39:56,520 --> 00:40:00,040
A soft, undulating, sensuous surface.
488
00:40:00,040 --> 00:40:02,440
Lovely to touch.
489
00:40:02,440 --> 00:40:05,640
So important to get that right
in the repaired buildings.
490
00:40:05,640 --> 00:40:09,760
Looking around, one can see that
mostly in the early '50s,
491
00:40:09,760 --> 00:40:11,760
lime render was used.
492
00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:16,040
That's the great key to giving
repaired or recreated buildings
493
00:40:16,040 --> 00:40:18,520
an authentic, artistic feel.
494
00:40:30,200 --> 00:40:33,760
Almost 60 years since I last
came here with my school,
495
00:40:33,760 --> 00:40:37,960
I've been given privileged access
to go inside.
496
00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:43,040
Let's have a look.
497
00:40:46,760 --> 00:40:51,040
'Like outside, the interiors are
a happy marriage of what survived
498
00:40:51,040 --> 00:40:55,680
'in place, what was salvaged,
and what was recreated.'
499
00:40:55,680 --> 00:40:58,280
Oh, my goodness me. Look at this.
500
00:40:59,280 --> 00:41:01,040
God, this is wonderful!
501
00:41:02,040 --> 00:41:06,520
I mean, some must be repaired,
but mostly it seems authentic.
502
00:41:06,520 --> 00:41:11,240
I had no idea of the quality.
It's just not facades that survive.
503
00:41:11,240 --> 00:41:14,760
This is an entire historic building.
504
00:41:19,760 --> 00:41:22,040
'It was down to a stroke
of good fortune
505
00:41:22,040 --> 00:41:24,520
'that these interiors survived.
506
00:41:24,520 --> 00:41:28,280
'The houses had been fireproofed
just before the war.'
507
00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:38,240
Oh! A huge staircase. Look at this.
508
00:41:38,240 --> 00:41:40,040
A wonderful face,
509
00:41:40,040 --> 00:41:43,880
but not enough wear and tear
as the centuries.
510
00:41:43,880 --> 00:41:47,280
So a brilliant piece of recreation,
I suppose,
511
00:41:47,280 --> 00:41:50,400
but, my goodness me,
it's thoroughly done.
512
00:41:50,400 --> 00:41:52,760
Oh, look, a lovely bunch of grapes.
513
00:41:52,760 --> 00:41:57,040
So one knows we're in the world
of good wine. Feasting.
514
00:41:57,040 --> 00:42:00,040
So up to the bedroom level,
515
00:42:00,040 --> 00:42:03,400
originally, the family level.
516
00:42:04,760 --> 00:42:08,040
I'll go through...and along.
517
00:42:09,040 --> 00:42:12,000
Oh...oh! Good heavens.
518
00:42:12,000 --> 00:42:14,280
They're full of treasures,
these houses,
519
00:42:14,280 --> 00:42:17,760
completely amazing,
unexpected discoveries.
520
00:42:17,760 --> 00:42:19,520
A miraculous survival.
521
00:42:19,520 --> 00:42:22,360
Biblical scenes
on this painted ceiling.
522
00:42:22,360 --> 00:42:24,280
Look at it.
523
00:42:24,280 --> 00:42:27,040
I had no idea this was here.
524
00:42:27,040 --> 00:42:29,520
Early 18th century, I suppose.
525
00:42:29,520 --> 00:42:31,520
A...picturesque scene.
526
00:42:31,520 --> 00:42:35,040
A ruined castle, a chap crossing
the bridge with his cow.
527
00:42:36,600 --> 00:42:38,960
The colours now muted, of course.
528
00:42:40,760 --> 00:42:43,720
But isn't it amazing it's here,
this ceiling?
529
00:42:43,720 --> 00:42:45,520
That it survives at all.
530
00:42:45,520 --> 00:42:48,040
The epicentre,
this heart of darkness,
531
00:42:48,040 --> 00:42:51,040
this mouth of hell in late 1944,
532
00:42:51,040 --> 00:42:56,040
everything being consumed by fire,
set by these vengeful Nazis,
533
00:42:56,040 --> 00:42:59,760
yet, in some magical way,
this fragile ceiling of timber,
534
00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:02,880
with these biblical scenes survived.
535
00:43:04,040 --> 00:43:05,720
Good heavens.
536
00:43:13,760 --> 00:43:17,360
While the people of Warsaw tried
to put the horrors of the Nazis
537
00:43:17,360 --> 00:43:20,560
behind them, they lived under
the shadow of Stalinism.
538
00:43:22,760 --> 00:43:25,520
But when I arrived here in late 1956,
539
00:43:25,520 --> 00:43:28,960
the tide of Soviet oppression
seemed to be turning.
540
00:43:32,960 --> 00:43:35,760
Stalin was dead
and all over Eastern Europe,
541
00:43:35,760 --> 00:43:39,200
people were rejecting rule
from Moscow.
542
00:43:40,200 --> 00:43:42,760
The political killings
had stopped in Poland,
543
00:43:42,760 --> 00:43:46,400
but people were still struggling
for a brighter future.
544
00:43:48,400 --> 00:43:53,280
My father, Gordon, was posted here
to report on the momentous changes.
545
00:43:55,760 --> 00:44:00,080
He used to meet fellow journalists
in the bar of the Bristol Hotel.
546
00:44:04,240 --> 00:44:05,760
Wiener Schnitzel.
547
00:44:05,760 --> 00:44:09,280
This was my treat as a child
in Warsaw.
548
00:44:11,520 --> 00:44:14,040
A Sunday treat. Lovely.
549
00:44:16,520 --> 00:44:20,040
I've got articles in front of me
written by my father,
550
00:44:20,040 --> 00:44:22,040
published in the Daily Worker.
551
00:44:22,040 --> 00:44:25,200
October, 1956, headline:
552
00:44:25,200 --> 00:44:27,760
"The Warsaw Way To Socialism.
553
00:44:27,760 --> 00:44:31,760
"These stirring pictures of the great
mass movement that swept Poland
554
00:44:31,760 --> 00:44:35,520
"a week ago have come to us
from our Warsaw correspondent
555
00:44:35,520 --> 00:44:37,040
"Gordon Cruickshank.
556
00:44:37,040 --> 00:44:41,200
"The enthusiasm and happiness
written on their faces
557
00:44:41,200 --> 00:44:43,520
"as the changes become known
558
00:44:43,520 --> 00:44:48,520
"give hope for the future
of a democratic socialist Poland."
559
00:44:48,520 --> 00:44:51,520
Pictures here of smiling people,
clapping people.
560
00:44:51,520 --> 00:44:54,280
There's a picture here
of my father taking notes.
561
00:44:54,280 --> 00:44:56,040
The objective reporter.
562
00:44:56,040 --> 00:44:58,240
My father loved Poland,
563
00:44:58,240 --> 00:45:00,520
he loved Warsaw, he loved the Poles,
564
00:45:00,520 --> 00:45:03,880
because of their spirit,
because of their resilience.
565
00:45:03,880 --> 00:45:08,520
And, also, here he saw a nation that
was a communist socialist state.
566
00:45:08,520 --> 00:45:11,280
Socialism and communism
with a more humane face,
567
00:45:11,280 --> 00:45:15,040
more humane than that associated
with Stalin and the Soviet Union.
568
00:45:15,040 --> 00:45:18,760
But history had horrible things
in store.
569
00:45:18,760 --> 00:45:23,200
Things started to go wrong
and, by 1958, this newsletter,
570
00:45:23,200 --> 00:45:25,040
headline on the front page:
571
00:45:25,040 --> 00:45:28,760
"Gordon Cruickshank Quits Daily
Worker And The Communist Party.
572
00:45:28,760 --> 00:45:33,040
"Cruickshank disagrees with the
party's fundamental political line,
573
00:45:33,040 --> 00:45:37,280
"and in particular with its attitude
to the treatment of Jews
574
00:45:37,280 --> 00:45:39,640
"in the Soviet Union."
575
00:45:39,640 --> 00:45:42,040
For my father, any...
576
00:45:42,040 --> 00:45:44,760
form of anti-Semitic behaviour,
577
00:45:44,760 --> 00:45:47,760
any racism, was intolerable,
impossible.
578
00:45:47,760 --> 00:45:50,280
He believed in a world of equality.
579
00:45:51,280 --> 00:45:54,040
He'd supported the idea
of communism for decades
580
00:45:54,040 --> 00:45:56,520
but had to give it all up
on principle.
581
00:45:57,760 --> 00:45:59,880
The fact that...
582
00:45:59,880 --> 00:46:04,520
he had to resign from the party must
have been just absolutely appalling.
583
00:46:04,520 --> 00:46:08,040
Appalling for him,
appalling for anybody whose life
584
00:46:08,040 --> 00:46:11,040
had been dedicated to an ideal
and the ideal crumbles.
585
00:46:11,040 --> 00:46:13,000
What do you do? Gosh.
586
00:46:13,000 --> 00:46:15,760
The weird thing is that as a child
I was not aware.
587
00:46:15,760 --> 00:46:18,040
He did protect me,
protect the family
588
00:46:18,040 --> 00:46:21,520
from what must have been
terrible, terrible turmoil,
589
00:46:21,520 --> 00:46:24,280
turbulence of mind.
590
00:46:25,280 --> 00:46:26,560
Gosh.
591
00:46:27,560 --> 00:46:31,040
In the end, of course, it all,
sort of, in a way...
592
00:46:31,040 --> 00:46:32,960
came to nothing.
593
00:46:32,960 --> 00:46:37,280
The world he supported
and hoped he would see triumph
594
00:46:37,280 --> 00:46:39,520
crumbled and was swept away
595
00:46:39,520 --> 00:46:42,520
or, worse than that,
worse than that, of course,
596
00:46:42,520 --> 00:46:44,520
it was...
597
00:46:44,520 --> 00:46:48,760
revealed to be rotten
under the Soviets, under Stalin.
598
00:47:01,280 --> 00:47:05,520
Coming back here after so many years
has allowed me to fill in the gaps
599
00:47:05,520 --> 00:47:07,280
in my memories.
600
00:47:12,520 --> 00:47:15,360
There's still one
that stands out, though.
601
00:47:15,360 --> 00:47:17,640
It's of the biggest bombsite of all.
602
00:47:18,640 --> 00:47:20,760
It was at the end of my street.
603
00:47:23,760 --> 00:47:27,800
What I didn't know was that
it signified a hole in the heart
604
00:47:27,800 --> 00:47:29,920
of the rebuilt Warsaw.
605
00:47:31,920 --> 00:47:35,280
It was the site of the city's
grandest pre-war building -
606
00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:37,600
the Royal Castle.
607
00:47:56,600 --> 00:48:00,280
For years, it was a step too far
for the Communists to embrace
608
00:48:00,280 --> 00:48:03,120
the glories of Poland's royal past.
609
00:48:04,280 --> 00:48:08,040
But the people fought long and hard
to get their castle back.
610
00:48:08,040 --> 00:48:13,040
Finally, their dream came true,
and work started in 1971.
611
00:48:17,840 --> 00:48:21,040
The story of the reconstruction
of the castle
612
00:48:21,040 --> 00:48:24,760
is one of the most heroic stories
in a city of heroes.
613
00:48:24,760 --> 00:48:28,520
It was paid for with money collected
from Poles throughout the world,
614
00:48:28,520 --> 00:48:31,760
with some money deposited in a box
on the site.
615
00:48:31,760 --> 00:48:34,520
You might think that
after 25 years or so,
616
00:48:34,520 --> 00:48:36,760
there wouldn't be much left
to rebuild.
617
00:48:36,760 --> 00:48:41,280
But Warsaw had planned for this day
as far back as 1939.
618
00:48:52,280 --> 00:48:55,520
The castle had been seriously
damaged by German bombs
619
00:48:55,520 --> 00:48:58,280
during the invasion in September
of that year.
620
00:49:05,240 --> 00:49:08,040
Curators and architects
risked their lives
621
00:49:08,040 --> 00:49:10,520
salvaging the treasures
of the castle.
622
00:49:10,520 --> 00:49:14,520
Within three weeks, 80% of what
survived had been carried off
623
00:49:14,520 --> 00:49:18,280
to safe storage in the vaults
of the National Museum.
624
00:49:18,280 --> 00:49:21,280
But, even after Nazi occupation
of Warsaw,
625
00:49:21,280 --> 00:49:25,040
the work continued with panelling,
fireplaces,
626
00:49:25,040 --> 00:49:28,520
fragments of plasterwork and doors
being carried off,
627
00:49:28,520 --> 00:49:30,520
but they had to be clever.
628
00:49:30,520 --> 00:49:33,280
Sometimes, the doors would be used
to carry off rubble,
629
00:49:33,280 --> 00:49:35,720
the rubble disguising
the historic door,
630
00:49:35,720 --> 00:49:37,760
and then the door put in storage.
631
00:49:37,760 --> 00:49:40,040
But the post-war politics of Poland
632
00:49:40,040 --> 00:49:43,760
meant it was 30 years before
these fragments were reused,
633
00:49:43,760 --> 00:49:49,560
in the last great stage in the
reconstruction of historic Warsaw.
634
00:49:57,520 --> 00:50:01,040
The castle enjoyed its apogee
during the 18th century
635
00:50:01,040 --> 00:50:03,480
under King Stanislaw August.
636
00:50:04,480 --> 00:50:06,800
It's my first visit here
637
00:50:06,800 --> 00:50:11,040
and the vainglorious portraits of
the King and the lavish interiors
638
00:50:11,040 --> 00:50:15,400
show why a communist government might
balk at the idea of rebuilding it.
639
00:50:16,760 --> 00:50:20,040
It's the very stuff
that inspires revolutions.
640
00:50:21,680 --> 00:50:26,520
Like all buildings, the Royal Castle
has had its ups and downs.
641
00:50:26,520 --> 00:50:29,760
And, in a nation like Poland,
with such a turbulent history,
642
00:50:29,760 --> 00:50:33,280
these ups and downs
have been very extreme,
643
00:50:33,280 --> 00:50:37,760
so it makes sense, in the recreation
of the castle's interior,
644
00:50:37,760 --> 00:50:41,040
to commemorate those moments
in the history of the nation
645
00:50:41,040 --> 00:50:45,280
when Poland has been at its most
prosperous and most independent.
646
00:50:50,520 --> 00:50:53,760
Rebuilding the castle
in all its 18th century finery
647
00:50:53,760 --> 00:50:58,040
was a huge challenge because
it was a work of art in itself,
648
00:50:58,040 --> 00:51:01,200
with the most elegant
neo-classical interiors,
649
00:51:01,200 --> 00:51:03,280
renowned around the world.
650
00:51:18,760 --> 00:51:23,720
This is one of the great 18th century
royal rooms of Europe.
651
00:51:23,720 --> 00:51:26,520
And the world was shocked
652
00:51:26,520 --> 00:51:30,560
when it was virtually destroyed
by German bombing in 1939,
653
00:51:30,560 --> 00:51:33,440
and now it lives again...
654
00:51:34,920 --> 00:51:37,440
..bright and sparkling...
655
00:51:38,440 --> 00:51:43,040
..as good as the day it was
first completed in the 1780s.
656
00:51:43,040 --> 00:51:45,040
Wonderful, isn't it?
657
00:51:50,760 --> 00:51:54,600
The reconstruction was
an extraordinary labour of love.
658
00:51:56,000 --> 00:51:59,120
Teams of conservationists and artists
659
00:51:59,120 --> 00:52:02,040
worked painstakingly to salvage
what they could
660
00:52:02,040 --> 00:52:05,520
or else recreate details
from old photographs.
661
00:52:17,040 --> 00:52:19,600
This is the Royal Chapel.
662
00:52:19,600 --> 00:52:24,520
It's a splendid neo-classical
design of the 1770s.
663
00:52:24,520 --> 00:52:29,200
It contains eight columns,
six of which are old.
664
00:52:29,200 --> 00:52:32,280
How on earth they survived
buried amongst the ruins,
665
00:52:32,280 --> 00:52:34,160
I've absolutely no idea.
666
00:52:34,160 --> 00:52:37,760
Also, a lot of those rosettes
are old as well.
667
00:52:37,760 --> 00:52:43,040
Here, old work and new work has been
very skilfully integrated
668
00:52:43,040 --> 00:52:45,960
to recreate a most wonderful thing.
669
00:52:45,960 --> 00:52:48,280
It's as if the war never happened,
670
00:52:48,280 --> 00:52:51,040
the horrors of war never
befell this place.
671
00:52:51,040 --> 00:52:53,760
I suppose that's just the point.
672
00:53:10,520 --> 00:53:12,560
Goodness me, look at this.
673
00:53:15,760 --> 00:53:18,520
What's really exciting
about the castle
674
00:53:18,520 --> 00:53:23,280
is the way its brilliantly recreated
interiors, sumptuous and gilded,
675
00:53:23,280 --> 00:53:28,520
so convincingly evoke those days
of Poland's power and glory
676
00:53:28,520 --> 00:53:33,760
when, in the 18th century, Warsaw
was one of the world's great cities.
677
00:53:33,760 --> 00:53:38,040
This is the throne room
and it's almost overwhelming.
678
00:53:38,040 --> 00:53:40,520
Behind me is the throne
679
00:53:40,520 --> 00:53:44,760
and its display of Polish eagles
made out of silver bullion.
680
00:53:44,760 --> 00:53:49,280
The originals were looted in 1939
by German soldiers,
681
00:53:49,280 --> 00:53:52,040
but, incredibly, one of these eagles
682
00:53:52,040 --> 00:53:55,760
was found in 1991
in the United States
683
00:53:55,760 --> 00:53:59,520
and that was brought back here
and copied to reproduce the others,
684
00:53:59,520 --> 00:54:02,760
giving the whole thing
a sense of utter authenticity.
685
00:54:02,760 --> 00:54:06,040
Of course, it shows that
recreating the past
686
00:54:06,040 --> 00:54:08,160
is a never-ending journey.
687
00:54:18,040 --> 00:54:22,240
The reconstruction of old Warsaw
raises many big questions,
688
00:54:22,240 --> 00:54:23,960
especially today.
689
00:54:25,360 --> 00:54:30,240
It works aesthetically, but was it
ethically the right thing to do?
690
00:54:33,040 --> 00:54:36,520
To ponder this,
I've come Lazienki Park.
691
00:54:36,520 --> 00:54:39,240
It's an enchanted place.
692
00:54:42,240 --> 00:54:44,520
I can see my younger self here,
693
00:54:44,520 --> 00:54:47,280
playing hide and seek
with the statues.
694
00:54:50,480 --> 00:54:53,760
It's all neo-classical
pomp and opulence.
695
00:54:53,760 --> 00:54:57,360
No wonder the Germans occupied
the Palace during the war.
696
00:54:57,360 --> 00:55:01,760
They did their damnedest
to destroy it before they left.
697
00:55:03,360 --> 00:55:07,880
After the war, the Palace and gardens
were rebuilt like the Old Town.
698
00:55:13,760 --> 00:55:17,280
The large scale of the reconstruction
of the Old Town
699
00:55:17,280 --> 00:55:20,040
and its meticulously
correct detailing
700
00:55:20,040 --> 00:55:23,400
was unprecedented in the 1950s.
701
00:55:23,400 --> 00:55:27,040
Then, the prevailing
architectural philosophy
702
00:55:27,040 --> 00:55:31,040
in approaching the reconstruction
of war-damaged historic towns
703
00:55:31,040 --> 00:55:36,040
was to be truthful and to rebuild
in a generally modern manner.
704
00:55:36,040 --> 00:55:40,040
That approach was rooted
in 19th century theory
705
00:55:40,040 --> 00:55:45,320
represented very well by the art
historian and theorist John Ruskin,
706
00:55:45,320 --> 00:55:49,280
who, in the mid-19th century
wrote that it was impossible,
707
00:55:49,280 --> 00:55:51,760
as impossible as to raise the dead,
708
00:55:51,760 --> 00:55:56,840
to restore anything that had been
great or beautiful in architecture.
709
00:55:58,840 --> 00:56:00,880
But, of course, recreating the dead
710
00:56:00,880 --> 00:56:03,800
was exactly what the people of Warsaw
wanted to do.
711
00:56:03,800 --> 00:56:07,760
They wanted it to appear that
the war and the Nazi barbarity
712
00:56:07,760 --> 00:56:09,640
had not happened.
713
00:56:09,640 --> 00:56:14,000
What the Poles wanted to do
was to recreate it as a vital,
714
00:56:14,000 --> 00:56:16,120
total work of art.
715
00:56:29,640 --> 00:56:35,240
Fast-forward 70 years and
World War II is a distant memory.
716
00:56:35,240 --> 00:56:39,040
Poland is now a member
of the European Union
717
00:56:39,040 --> 00:56:42,000
and Warsaw has become a boom town,
718
00:56:42,000 --> 00:56:47,320
with high-rise buildings
dominating its 21st century skyline.
719
00:56:47,320 --> 00:56:50,480
The latest is called the Spire.
720
00:56:50,480 --> 00:56:54,040
When completed, it'll be the city's
second tallest building,
721
00:56:54,040 --> 00:56:56,520
after the Palace of Culture.
722
00:57:12,040 --> 00:57:16,320
Warsaw's resurrection is miraculous.
723
00:57:16,320 --> 00:57:21,520
70 years ago, nearly 90% of the city
had been destroyed.
724
00:57:21,520 --> 00:57:25,120
A place of despair and desolation.
725
00:57:25,120 --> 00:57:28,560
Now, as you can see, it lives again.
726
00:57:32,040 --> 00:57:36,520
In a world where history is once
again under attack from extremism,
727
00:57:36,520 --> 00:57:39,600
there is much we can learn
from Warsaw.
728
00:57:44,320 --> 00:57:46,520
A revived confidence in the future
729
00:57:46,520 --> 00:57:49,040
is expressed through
the new architecture.
730
00:57:49,040 --> 00:57:53,520
Old buildings have been reconstructed
with passion and verve.
731
00:57:53,520 --> 00:57:56,040
Is it possible
to bring back the dead?
732
00:57:56,040 --> 00:57:58,520
Yes, if done with commitment,
733
00:57:58,520 --> 00:58:01,760
with determination and with love.
97708
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