All language subtitles for Peugeot _ Citroen 1_6 l 16V Replacing timing belt and water pump - English

Hi my friends, in response to many request, we present today a new video for a Peugeot

We have here a nice 206 CC

It will get today a new water pump, a new timing and driving belt, and all rolls we'll change, too

This Peugeot has the 1,6 l engine with 16 valves, thus it has two overhead camshafts

This makes the repair more complicate, this is the reason for the new video

All the work today will be in this area with restricted access

The only access will be through the wheel housing

In addition we'll have the problem that the engine mount is located here

Thus we have to hang the engine on a bridge

For having access through the wheel housing, dismount the wheel

Before jacking, unlock the wheelbolts

Just loosen, don't remove yet

Because we'll have to jack the car, I secure it with wedges

I use always wood

Release it carefully on the wood

Remove the wheel

Dismounting the wheel housing liner starts here with 2 small Torx screws

The first one

and here is the second one

For removing the expanding rivet up here, you may use such a special tool

And the dust silently slides down

Remove carefully the wheel housing liner

This has been the first part

The front part has also 2 Torx screws

and we have the front part, too

Turn the tensioner here counterclockwise and lock it with a pin

Here is the location for the pin

When the tensioner is locked with the pin, it is easy to remove the drive belt

I marked the direction, but this belt will not be used again

You see, the belt is rather worn - a lot of cracks

It could have broken any time

Remove the pin and release the tensioner

Next comes the roller, placed over the tensioner

Remove the cap

Opening the bolt needs some force

And the roller is off

For having a better access, remove the small water pipe

Remove the holder here

The tensioner is mounted with 3 bolts

The upper one is accessed best from upstairs

The 2 lower bolts you see here

the second and the third will come now

and the complete tensioner is coming

and we have the part

The cover of the timing belt has to be dismounted now

Because the specialists has placed a engine mount in between, I have to hang now the engine on a bridge to remove the mount

The hanger for the engine is located here

Here you apply the hook of the bridge

Remove the part over the engine mount

The bolts have an E16 head - not a common size

It seems to work

The engine remains in position - the bridge is working well

Remove the U-shaped sheet metal

Loosen the bolts of the timing belt cover

The bolts have a 6 mm hexagon, but they sit such deep, that you'll need a long socket

It is not possible to remove the bolts, it are captive bolts

Here in the corner is another one

The next one

Down, is another one

Downstairs are another 2 bolts, but they have a 10 mm head

For removing the cover, also the inner part of the engine mount has to be dismounted

Here should be a third bolt

Now it's possible to remove the cover

Here you see the captive bolts

Dismount the lower part of the timing belt cover

Here are holes in the sprockets of the timing belt and down here are the fitting holes in the cylinder head

I have to align the holes

Go on, a little more - okay it's fine

For locking the camshaft, you'll need such pins with diameter of 8 mm

I added a head here for the better operation, the pins have length of 30 mm

When the engine is at the correct position, the pins enter easily in the holes

Here down at the oil filter, in the lowest corner, is the hole for locking the crankshaft

You'll need a strong wire bend rectangular, or an Allen key

Just here

I open the nut of the tensioner

Turn the tensioner with an Allen key

In this direction, the tension is increasing - and in this direction it is reducing

But don't turn it more than one rotation

Take off the timing belt

Remove the tensioner

The bleeding valve for the water you'll find here at the heating hose

It is the knurled screw with the slit, open it for draining the cooling liquid

For the clamp you'll need such pliers, I found no draining valve at the radiator

Put the clamp in this position and release the pliers

One of the bolts of the water pump is already open

We'll get now a little wet

But most of the liquid is already out

That's the water pump

Clean all soundly

Clean also the holes for the bolts

Coat the gasket of the water pump with silicon oil

Clean the surface outside of the O-ring

I add a little gasketing outside of the O-ring

Mount the pump quickly, this side up

Try to find the holes immediately

And we have the 10 Nm for the bolts

We are going to replace the roller

This is the new one, the bolt we have to take from the old roller

The bolt has been mounted with glue, we'll use also

The bolt has a very high quality, it's a 10.9 and it has a fine thread

We'll need a higher torque

A drop of the screw glue

This is the new tensioner, here enters the dowel pin

The hole for the bolt and the nut from the old tensioner comes here

Just fasten the nut by hand

The tensioner stays likes this, it is now at minimal tension

We'll mount the belt now

We'll start with this mark at the crankshaft

The belt has an orientation, this mark is for the camshaft

Now I am on the first camshaft sprocket and also on the second camshaft sprocket

Continue along the water pump over the tensioner

With some problems the belt is in

Here it was necessary to use a thinner pin, to bring the belt correctly on the sprocket

Then the other sprocket, the water pump and finally the tensioner

I bring the loose belt to maximal tension

Turn the tensioner clockwise to the limit and fasten the nut

The belt should be rather tight yet

Remove the pins from the camshaft sprockets

Remove also the pins for the crankshaft

This I use for locking the crankshaft

I cranked the engine 6 times and all pins are fitting again

To be absolutely sure, I crank the engine again with the tensioner set correctly

Hold the tensioner with the Allen key at the right position and fasten the nut

And it is fastened with 10 Nm

Mount the lower cover of the timing belt

The cover has a lot of captive screws, we discussed about

The upper cover must enter here on the lower cover

Insert the upper cover from upstairs

Fasten all the small bolts with care

Step by step we come to the final, next comes the engine mount

This is the upper side, the bolts are quite long

And finally 60 Nm

The second one, and the third one

Don't forget this metal sheet

The metal sheet has a mark, which points to the rear side

The engine mount has this orientation

Lift the electronics a little, and press the cable a little to the side

The engine mount sits on dowel pins - I just hit them

The nut comes on the outer side

Insert the bolts

As already mentioned at the beginning, the bolts have a E16 head

Fasten all the bolts with the ratchet, and then with the torque wrench

The torque for the bolts is 60 Nm

and 45 Nm for the nut

Mount the cover over the nut

The electronis have 2 guides here, if it's in there, it can be placed easily

Just like this

Mount the cable holder and the cable

Mount the pulley

The position doesn't matter, just that the bolts enter

Fasten all the bolts with 20 Nm

20 for the first, 20 for the second and 20 for the third

The tensioner for the drive belt has this orientation, the 2 bolts are at the lower side

The tensioner comes first and the roller after it

The bolts are M8, the torque is 20 Nm

One, two and the upper bolt

The roller of the drive belt

The torque should be some 40 Nm, it's a M10

Mount the nice cap on the roller - click and it's in

Now comes the drive belt, it has no orientation - let's mount it

First over the power steering pump, along the tensioner to the left

Like this over the idler, the parasite roll as the Russians call it

Mounting the V-ribbed belt you have to take care that it is in all "V"s of all pulleys

Lift the tensioner a little and remove the pin

Just for security, crank the engine again

The engine bridge can be dismounted yet

Fasten the electronics, I mount also the holder for the small water hose

Fasten it with care and mount the small hose

Mounting is always easier than dismounting

Because the cooling liquid of Peugeot can be hardly obtained in Germany, I change over to the liquid of VW

This means I have to rinse it several times with water

Fill it with pure water

Still some bubbles are coming at the bleeding valve

I fill it now in the ratio 1:1 of cooling liquid to water, together with the rest of water, this results in the right freezing point for Germany

I start with a can of cooling liquid

Run the engine, until the fan is blowing and last bubbles will disappear

Refill, check the level in 2 days again

Mount the wheel housing liner, the construction of Peugeot is genious, the liner has 2 parts

It seems to fit like this

The other part, it should enter in the fender

One screw here

It is okay like this, the cable is placed here

And the last screw is here

After all screws are in, I have to press the rivets

One

Two

Three and up here is another one

Fasten as much as possible with the car being jacked

And I can remove the last wood

Fasten the wheel bolts with 90 Nm

In order to document the replacement of belts, I glue such a small label on the cover

I write the mileage and the date

All is done, the summer may come, we have already a convertible

Bye, bye, see you in our next video