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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,120 --> 00:00:04,815 This is really tough. 2 00:00:04,840 --> 00:00:06,775 But the castle is in view now, 3 00:00:06,800 --> 00:00:08,375 looking as I feel, 4 00:00:08,400 --> 00:00:10,175 a bit ruined. 5 00:00:10,200 --> 00:00:13,935 I'm going on a journey of self-discovery. 6 00:00:13,960 --> 00:00:15,335 What a place! 7 00:00:15,360 --> 00:00:18,695 Walking stretches between the summits of the 8 00:00:18,720 --> 00:00:20,855 Spanish and French Pyrenees. 9 00:00:20,880 --> 00:00:22,215 My Word! 10 00:00:22,240 --> 00:00:25,335 Approaching three score years and ten, 11 00:00:25,360 --> 00:00:27,015 I have much to reflect on. 12 00:00:27,040 --> 00:00:29,935 What is the secret of being happy in life do you think, now? 13 00:00:29,960 --> 00:00:34,215 So, I'm challenging myself on an ambitious mountain adventure. 14 00:00:34,240 --> 00:00:35,975 HE GROANS 15 00:00:40,640 --> 00:00:43,095 I'll start at the Atlantic Ocean, 16 00:00:43,120 --> 00:00:46,095 crossing borders between Spain and France, 17 00:00:46,120 --> 00:00:48,615 and end at the Mediterranean Sea. 18 00:00:50,120 --> 00:00:52,135 Meeting the people who live here. 19 00:00:52,160 --> 00:00:54,655 Working on the land together, everybody's equal. 20 00:00:54,680 --> 00:00:56,415 'And that's when you really bond.|. 21 00:00:56,440 --> 00:00:58,095 It's like falling in love again. 22 00:00:58,120 --> 00:01:02,095 I began to get this sense of total peace. 23 00:01:02,120 --> 00:01:03,575 I'll test myself physically... 24 00:01:07,160 --> 00:01:08,935 This is no joke! 25 00:01:08,960 --> 00:01:12,095 ...and have time to contemplate the past. 26 00:01:12,120 --> 00:01:16,295 Somewhere through these hills, my father walked to leave Spain as a 27 00:01:16,320 --> 00:01:17,615 political refugee. 28 00:01:19,360 --> 00:01:23,895 Open to whatever this personal quest may teach me. 29 00:01:23,920 --> 00:01:28,495 It has impressed upon me, how free is the human spirit 30 00:01:28,520 --> 00:01:30,135 to choose it's own way. 31 00:01:30,160 --> 00:01:31,975 And that is inspiring. 32 00:01:55,760 --> 00:01:57,935 Cafe au lait. 33 00:01:57,960 --> 00:01:59,135 Merck. 34 00:01:59,160 --> 00:02:00,295 Du jus d'orange. 35 00:02:02,920 --> 00:02:04,055 Le confit triomphe. 36 00:02:05,800 --> 00:02:06,855 Voila. 37 00:02:06,880 --> 00:02:10,095 So, I was feeling rather optimistic about this leg of the trip. 38 00:02:10,120 --> 00:02:13,295 We're right at the end of March now, 39 00:02:13,320 --> 00:02:15,575 it ought really to be spring weather. 40 00:02:15,600 --> 00:02:21,055 But now, I look out the window and this rain looks as if it's set in. 41 00:02:22,840 --> 00:02:25,215 I'm sitting here by the fire, 42 00:02:25,240 --> 00:02:29,895 trying to absorb all the heat and all the dry that I can. 43 00:02:29,920 --> 00:02:33,575 The mountain over there appeared and my hopes were up, 44 00:02:33,600 --> 00:02:36,815 my heart went pitter-patter, I thought the weather was improving. 45 00:02:36,840 --> 00:02:38,975 But it has disappeared again. 46 00:02:39,000 --> 00:02:40,855 So, there's no point hanging around, 47 00:02:40,880 --> 00:02:43,535 I'm going to have to take up my walking stick, my makhila, 48 00:02:43,560 --> 00:02:45,895 and head off into the elements. 49 00:02:47,640 --> 00:02:49,495 Over the next three clays, 50 00:02:49,520 --> 00:02:53,495 I'll be walking through an area of the French Pyrenees called Ariege, 51 00:02:53,520 --> 00:02:56,535 on a quest to discover why some people thriving here 52 00:02:56,560 --> 00:02:59,135 have turned their backs on previous lives, 53 00:02:59,160 --> 00:03:01,975 to find new ones in the mountains. 54 00:03:02,000 --> 00:03:03,495 Au revoir, adieu. 55 00:03:10,240 --> 00:03:14,695 Along the way, I'll be asking a couple why they gave up city life 56 00:03:14,720 --> 00:03:21,095 to rear pigs, before I spend time with Benedictine nuns in confession. 57 00:03:21,120 --> 00:03:24,815 My route will take me into a pre-historic cave 58 00:03:24,840 --> 00:03:29,615 where I'll delve into the spiritual world of the persecuted Cathars, 59 00:03:29,640 --> 00:03:31,655 who were forced to flee. 60 00:03:31,680 --> 00:03:34,575 Ancl then I'll climb to the castle of Roquefixade 61 00:03:34,600 --> 00:03:36,295 as my final challenge. 62 00:03:47,200 --> 00:03:53,215 Even in the rain, I'm aware of how lovely is this mountain air. 63 00:03:53,240 --> 00:03:57,415 I just feel I'm breathing free, 64 00:03:57,440 --> 00:03:59,615 walking free, 65 00:03:59,640 --> 00:04:00,895 being free. 66 00:04:03,120 --> 00:04:06,655 Whilst this landscape is strikingly beautiful, 67 00:04:06,680 --> 00:04:08,815 it's also pretty tough going. 68 00:04:11,520 --> 00:04:14,935 When you slip back 69 00:04:14,960 --> 00:04:18,775 with every step forward on this slimy grass and mud, 70 00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:20,255 it makes things quite tricky. 71 00:04:22,240 --> 00:04:23,655 UP We go. 72 00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:26,015 But if you walk in the mountains, 73 00:04:26,040 --> 00:04:28,135 some clays will be good and others will not. 74 00:04:31,040 --> 00:04:33,695 The Ariege region of the Pyrenees, 75 00:04:33,720 --> 00:04:36,335 400 miles clue south of Paris, 76 00:04:36,360 --> 00:04:40,655 is one of the wildest and most unspoilt in the whole of France, 77 00:04:40,680 --> 00:04:44,175 and ruraltraditions run deep. 78 00:04:44,200 --> 00:04:48,415 The people in this far southern region of France have a bit of a 79 00:04:48,440 --> 00:04:50,855 reputation for being resentful of authority. 80 00:04:50,880 --> 00:04:52,535 You might say a little bit bolshie. 81 00:04:52,560 --> 00:04:54,895 France is a notoriously centralised country. 82 00:04:54,920 --> 00:04:58,935 And these people are not metropolitan. 83 00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:04,855 They are hill farmers and they don't like being told what to do 84 00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:07,055 by people in the capital city. 85 00:05:07,080 --> 00:05:10,655 And I have a lot of sympathy for that because I'm, 86 00:05:10,680 --> 00:05:12,495 you might be surprised to hear this, 87 00:05:12,520 --> 00:05:14,415 a bit of a rebel against authority. 88 00:05:14,440 --> 00:05:16,935 Oh, yeah, you'll say, "But you've been a part of government." 89 00:05:16,960 --> 00:05:21,295 Yes, and I wanted small government and I wanted less government. 90 00:05:21,320 --> 00:05:25,775 So, I have a lot of sympathy for these people a long way from Paris 91 00:05:25,800 --> 00:05:27,575 saying, "Don't tell me what to do." 92 00:05:33,720 --> 00:05:37,175 On a clear spring clay, up at 900 metres, 93 00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:39,415 the scenery here is breathtaking. 94 00:05:41,000 --> 00:05:45,175 Even in the mist and the rain, it is a truly an enchanting area. 95 00:05:46,600 --> 00:05:50,055 Many people who are born here never move away, 96 00:05:50,080 --> 00:05:54,735 Ancl it's also home to others who arrived and never left. 97 00:05:54,760 --> 00:05:57,815 I've arranged to meet a young couple from Luxembourg 98 00:05:57,840 --> 00:06:01,655 to hear what about this area made them settle. 99 00:06:01,680 --> 00:06:05,615 This is very much, literally, off the beaten track. 100 00:06:05,640 --> 00:06:09,895 This could not be more different from my urban metropolitan life. 101 00:06:11,200 --> 00:06:14,095 That's if I can find them. 102 00:06:14,120 --> 00:06:18,015 Why exactly would anyone want to 103 00:06:18,040 --> 00:06:25,655 move to this sheer slope in southern France in order to farm pigs? 104 00:06:25,680 --> 00:06:27,775 The mystery will be revealed. 105 00:06:30,760 --> 00:06:31,855 Hello, hello. 106 00:06:31,880 --> 00:06:33,215 Great to see you, I'm Michael! 107 00:06:33,240 --> 00:06:35,015 I'm Magali! I'm Christian! 108 00:06:35,040 --> 00:06:38,575 Even on a terrible clay like this, you have a superb view. 109 00:06:38,600 --> 00:06:39,735 Yes. 110 00:06:39,760 --> 00:06:40,975 Thank you very much. 111 00:06:41,000 --> 00:06:44,255 Was one of the motivations for coming here the beauty of the place? 112 00:06:44,280 --> 00:06:45,455 Yes. 113 00:06:45,480 --> 00:06:47,495 How did you decide to come here? 114 00:06:47,520 --> 00:06:51,735 We travelled through Europe in camper van two years with our kids. 115 00:06:51,760 --> 00:06:54,295 And then, we fell in love with France. 116 00:06:54,320 --> 00:06:56,655 We didn't actually plan to buy something here. 117 00:06:56,680 --> 00:07:00,855 We saw an announcement on social media and then we just thought, 118 00:07:00,880 --> 00:07:02,175 let's check it out. 119 00:07:02,200 --> 00:07:04,495 We couldn't say no after having been here. 120 00:07:04,520 --> 00:07:05,935 It's a blessed feeling. 121 00:07:05,960 --> 00:07:08,095 What was that feeling? 122 00:07:08,120 --> 00:07:09,775 It's like falling in love again. 123 00:07:09,800 --> 00:07:12,695 Coming home. Coming home. 124 00:07:12,720 --> 00:07:15,655 But you weren'tjust buying a house, you were buying a farm. 125 00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:17,215 You were buying a business. 126 00:07:17,240 --> 00:07:18,695 Yes, we bought a pig farm. 127 00:07:18,720 --> 00:07:20,535 Were you pig farmers in Luxembourg? 128 00:07:20,560 --> 00:07:25,055 Not at all. I was an electrician. 129 00:07:25,080 --> 00:07:26,575 I'm a nurse. 130 00:07:26,600 --> 00:07:29,175 Was there something you were getting away from? 131 00:07:29,200 --> 00:07:31,615 Was there something in Luxembourg you didn't like? 132 00:07:31,640 --> 00:07:33,135 Was it too urban? 133 00:07:33,160 --> 00:07:36,335 Was it too much of a rat race, as we say in English? 134 00:07:36,360 --> 00:07:37,815 Yeah, it's something like that. 135 00:07:37,840 --> 00:07:40,055 Land was too expensive. 136 00:07:40,080 --> 00:07:42,335 It's a lot of stress there. 137 00:07:42,360 --> 00:07:44,535 Everyone wants to have a bigger garden 138 00:07:44,560 --> 00:07:48,895 and better looking house and we were like, we don't want to compete. 139 00:07:48,920 --> 00:07:51,415 In English, we have expression, keeping up with thejoneses, 140 00:07:51,440 --> 00:07:53,615 which means always competing with your neighbours. 141 00:07:53,640 --> 00:07:54,815 And you didn't like that? 142 00:07:54,840 --> 00:07:56,655 We were seeking for something more in life. 143 00:07:56,680 --> 00:07:57,895 Yeah. Yeah. 144 00:07:57,920 --> 00:08:00,815 Have you chosen quite a tough life? Is it difficult here? 145 00:08:00,840 --> 00:08:02,295 Yes. Yes. 146 00:08:02,320 --> 00:08:03,695 We're out in the mountains. 147 00:08:03,720 --> 00:08:04,895 Everything is difficult. 148 00:08:04,920 --> 00:08:06,375 Yeah, it's a full-time job. 149 00:08:06,400 --> 00:08:09,015 But we got lots of help from the people around here. 150 00:08:09,040 --> 00:08:11,295 We have very friendly neighbours. 151 00:08:11,320 --> 00:08:13,735 The community welcomed us with everything they could. 152 00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,055 How nice. Have you made good friendships? 153 00:08:16,080 --> 00:08:19,455 Yes, we have a lot of very creative people here around. 154 00:08:19,480 --> 00:08:22,575 Artistic people and very alternative. 155 00:08:22,600 --> 00:08:24,775 Yeah. You don't see these people in big cities. 156 00:08:24,800 --> 00:08:26,695 They are self-sufficient, most of them. 157 00:08:26,720 --> 00:08:27,815 Yeah. 158 00:08:27,840 --> 00:08:30,015 And they love to share their knowledge. 159 00:08:30,040 --> 00:08:31,615 Well, let's go look at those piggies. 160 00:08:31,640 --> 00:08:32,655 Sure. 161 00:08:32,680 --> 00:08:33,735 Give me a little tour. 162 00:08:35,320 --> 00:08:39,695 The farm's 40 black pigs are a rare breed known as Gascon Noir 163 00:08:39,720 --> 00:08:42,975 that has lived in this Pyrenean region for centuries. 164 00:08:43,000 --> 00:08:45,575 Off we go, down the hill. 165 00:08:45,600 --> 00:08:48,415 They're thought to be the oldest variety in France, 166 00:08:48,440 --> 00:08:51,535 famed for their dark marbled meat. 167 00:08:51,560 --> 00:08:53,015 I hear the squealing of pigs. 168 00:08:53,040 --> 00:08:54,855 Yes. Here we are. 169 00:08:54,880 --> 00:08:59,535 This is the barn where he have our small piglets and their mums. 170 00:08:59,560 --> 00:09:00,975 Oh, hello. 171 00:09:01,000 --> 00:09:02,575 Hello, hello, hello. 172 00:09:02,600 --> 00:09:03,695 Piggie. 173 00:09:04,920 --> 00:09:06,535 They're lovely! Yes. 174 00:09:06,560 --> 00:09:07,535 Hello! 175 00:09:09,760 --> 00:09:11,895 Hello, mama's house. 176 00:09:11,920 --> 00:09:13,295 Oh, these are big pigs. 177 00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:16,415 Gosh. 178 00:09:16,440 --> 00:09:17,535 Yes. 179 00:09:17,560 --> 00:09:19,135 And any more outside? 180 00:09:19,160 --> 00:09:22,335 Yes. All the other pigs, they are living outside in fresh air. 181 00:09:22,360 --> 00:09:24,495 Oh, look. They're all lined up for us. 182 00:09:24,520 --> 00:09:25,575 Yes. 183 00:09:25,600 --> 00:09:27,375 As though they were ready for a race. 184 00:09:27,400 --> 00:09:29,055 Yes. 185 00:09:29,080 --> 00:09:32,015 Hello. Oh, you got a bit muddy haven't you, piggies? 186 00:09:34,480 --> 00:09:39,575 Life here is deeply connected to the landscape and to nature. 187 00:09:39,600 --> 00:09:45,415 Novice pig farmers Magali and Christian have had to adapt quickly. 188 00:09:45,440 --> 00:09:48,615 How do you feel when it comes to slaughtering your pigs? 189 00:09:48,640 --> 00:09:50,815 It's not a good feeling, I have to admit. 190 00:09:50,840 --> 00:09:54,095 But you have to say that, we know that they had a good life and treat 191 00:09:54,120 --> 00:09:56,535 them with all the respect we can. 192 00:09:56,560 --> 00:09:58,535 It's the best we can do for them. 193 00:09:58,560 --> 00:10:00,695 They sound as though they're hungry right now. 194 00:10:00,720 --> 00:10:01,815 Yes, do you want to feed them? 195 00:10:01,840 --> 00:10:03,615 Yes? Sure, yeah. Yeah. 196 00:10:03,640 --> 00:10:05,375 Ah, the pigs recognise the food. 197 00:10:05,400 --> 00:10:08,415 Yes. OK, do you mind just holding that? 198 00:10:08,440 --> 00:10:10,215 So, what do I have to do here? 199 00:10:10,240 --> 00:10:13,535 You have to be fast because they will be fast too. 200 00:10:13,560 --> 00:10:15,095 'And make a big line.|. 201 00:10:15,120 --> 00:10:16,775 OK, boys! 202 00:10:16,800 --> 00:10:18,655 Hurray! 203 00:10:18,680 --> 00:10:20,055 Lunch time! 204 00:10:21,720 --> 00:10:22,855 Was that right? 205 00:10:22,880 --> 00:10:24,375 Perfect. 206 00:10:24,400 --> 00:10:26,775 Ooh, that food goes quickly. Look at that. 207 00:10:26,800 --> 00:10:28,935 It's the first time you've fed pigs? 208 00:10:28,960 --> 00:10:30,255 I think so. Yes? 209 00:10:30,280 --> 00:10:31,695 And even if I had, 210 00:10:31,720 --> 00:10:35,535 these would be the prettiest pigs I'd ever fed. 211 00:10:35,560 --> 00:10:39,215 Magali and Christian produce around 50 products, 212 00:10:39,240 --> 00:10:42,095 including pate and salami. 213 00:10:42,120 --> 00:10:45,015 As I try my best to forget how cute these pigs are, 214 00:10:45,040 --> 00:10:49,655 my hosts invite me to sample some of their home-made delights. 215 00:10:49,680 --> 00:10:53,335 We are having a summer Pate with all the herbs growing in the summer. 216 00:10:56,520 --> 00:10:57,615 It smells divine. 217 00:10:57,640 --> 00:10:59,855 Let me try that. Thank you very much. 218 00:10:59,880 --> 00:11:00,975 You're welcome. 219 00:11:03,160 --> 00:11:04,975 That is delicious! 220 00:11:05,000 --> 00:11:06,135 You taste the love. 221 00:11:07,600 --> 00:11:09,295 Which is your favourite product? 222 00:11:09,320 --> 00:11:12,095 My favourite is the sauces with the pecan nuts. 223 00:11:12,120 --> 00:11:13,855 Try this. 224 00:11:13,880 --> 00:11:15,095 That is excellent. 225 00:11:15,120 --> 00:11:16,215 Thank you. 226 00:11:16,240 --> 00:11:17,535 It's been lovely seeing you. 227 00:11:17,560 --> 00:11:22,335 Cos I really feel like I've met very happy, very contented pair of people 228 00:11:22,360 --> 00:11:24,735 who have made who have made a big decision for yourselves 229 00:11:24,760 --> 00:11:26,215 and for your children, my goodness. 230 00:11:26,240 --> 00:11:27,815 And you're really happy with it. 231 00:11:27,840 --> 00:11:29,575 Thank you, it was nice meeting you. 232 00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:31,095 You want to take some pate? 233 00:11:31,120 --> 00:11:32,215 You are so kind. 234 00:11:32,240 --> 00:11:35,135 I can imagine myself on a hillside, 235 00:11:35,160 --> 00:11:37,935 having little picnic and thinking of you two. 236 00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:39,415 Thank you so much. 237 00:11:39,440 --> 00:11:40,895 Bye-bye! Bye! 238 00:11:43,800 --> 00:11:47,295 Magali and Christian are an inspiration, 239 00:11:47,320 --> 00:11:51,015 they've followed their hearts to start a new existence, 240 00:11:51,040 --> 00:11:54,615 a more fulfilling life in these mountains. 241 00:11:54,640 --> 00:11:57,255 It's a brave decision 242 00:11:57,280 --> 00:12:00,255 and I believe not one that I could make. 243 00:12:11,520 --> 00:12:14,575 The rain continues. 244 00:12:14,600 --> 00:12:17,255 The visibility has got worse. 245 00:12:19,040 --> 00:12:23,895 My clothes are heavy with sogginess. 246 00:12:23,920 --> 00:12:25,255 This is really tough. 247 00:12:28,120 --> 00:12:31,895 I'm on the third leg of my spiritual Pyrenean adventure, 248 00:12:31,920 --> 00:12:35,015 this time in France's Ariege region. 249 00:12:35,040 --> 00:12:39,535 Ancl scaling this mountain at 1,300 metres is testing my endurance. 250 00:12:41,200 --> 00:12:45,015 Not least because I'm at the mercy of the elements. 251 00:12:45,040 --> 00:12:46,495 Ah! 252 00:12:46,520 --> 00:12:49,535 Gosh, it must be so difficult living here. 253 00:12:49,560 --> 00:12:51,295 Ar gm 254 00:12:51,320 --> 00:12:56,375 Along this path, there are cabin refuges. 255 00:12:56,400 --> 00:13:02,055 I think the refuges are intended for winter walkers and people moving 256 00:13:02,080 --> 00:13:05,055 through the mountains with animals. 257 00:13:05,080 --> 00:13:08,655 Today, it'll be my place of shelter. 258 00:13:08,680 --> 00:13:12,455 And that's where I'm going to meet Patrice. 259 00:13:12,480 --> 00:13:15,615 If I can find him. 260 00:13:15,640 --> 00:13:19,095 An author of more than 20 books on the area, 261 00:13:19,120 --> 00:13:22,095 there are few people who know these mountains better than 262 00:13:22,120 --> 00:13:25,135 Patrice Teisseire Dufour. 263 00:13:25,160 --> 00:13:27,295 Through the fog, 264 00:13:27,320 --> 00:13:29,735 the smudge of a building. 265 00:13:35,560 --> 00:13:38,655 It looks dry. 266 00:13:38,680 --> 00:13:39,895 So welcomed. 267 00:13:44,720 --> 00:13:46,215 Patrice, we're relieved to see you. 268 00:13:46,240 --> 00:13:47,535 I'm Michael. 269 00:13:47,560 --> 00:13:49,495 Hello! I'm glad to see you. 270 00:13:49,520 --> 00:13:51,055 It's great to see you. 271 00:13:51,080 --> 00:13:52,575 Are you starting a fire? 272 00:13:52,600 --> 00:13:53,815 Yes. I try. 273 00:13:53,840 --> 00:13:55,575 Oh, good. Good, good, good. 274 00:13:55,600 --> 00:13:57,175 I could do with that. 275 00:13:57,200 --> 00:13:59,095 OK. 276 00:13:59,120 --> 00:14:02,335 Patrice, you know the Pyrenees pretty well? 277 00:14:02,360 --> 00:14:03,895 Yes. 278 00:14:03,920 --> 00:14:06,575 Do you use these cabins yourself very much? 279 00:14:06,600 --> 00:14:08,735 Yes. Many times. 280 00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:10,215 Do you actually sleep here? 281 00:14:10,240 --> 00:14:13,695 Yes, during my hiking on Pyrenees. 282 00:14:13,720 --> 00:14:15,615 Where do you sleep? On the table? 283 00:14:15,640 --> 00:14:17,215 Yes. You don't. 284 00:14:17,240 --> 00:14:18,655 Yes. Wow. 285 00:14:18,680 --> 00:14:19,815 It's possible. 286 00:14:19,840 --> 00:14:21,415 It does look very comfortable. 287 00:14:21,440 --> 00:14:24,375 Yes, or under the table. With a... 288 00:14:24,400 --> 00:14:25,455 Sleeping bag? 289 00:14:25,480 --> 00:14:27,335 ...yes, sleeping bag. Thank you. 290 00:14:27,360 --> 00:14:31,535 And there's always some wood and some paper to make a fire, is there? 291 00:14:31,560 --> 00:14:33,375 Yes, yes. Fantastic. 292 00:14:33,400 --> 00:14:36,495 It's the rules on Pyrenees. 293 00:14:36,520 --> 00:14:41,135 You use the wood and after your fire, 294 00:14:41,160 --> 00:14:46,575 you have to find another wood for the next. 295 00:14:46,600 --> 00:14:48,135 Patrice, what do you like to do? 296 00:14:48,160 --> 00:14:50,015 You like to take a walk in the mountains? 297 00:14:50,040 --> 00:14:51,695 I like to observe animals. 298 00:14:51,720 --> 00:14:57,255 It's possible to see a bear when you are at 2,000 m. 299 00:14:59,400 --> 00:15:02,335 Today, it's unlikely I'll see anything much, 300 00:15:02,360 --> 00:15:07,055 but Patrice assures me he's often spotted brown bears here. 301 00:15:07,080 --> 00:15:10,175 Sadly, despite an official ban on hunting them, 302 00:15:10,200 --> 00:15:12,535 the population is under threat. 303 00:15:12,560 --> 00:15:14,935 Are the shepherds or anybody else killing the Bears? 304 00:15:14,960 --> 00:15:16,175 Yes. 305 00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:19,215 It's a really big problem. 306 00:15:19,240 --> 00:15:22,655 It's our French state giving compensation. 307 00:15:22,680 --> 00:15:24,135 The sheep price. 308 00:15:24,160 --> 00:15:27,695 The French state compensates the farmer for the lost sheep? 309 00:15:27,720 --> 00:15:28,815 Yes. 310 00:15:28,840 --> 00:15:31,535 Finally feeling warm and dry, 311 00:15:31,560 --> 00:15:33,735 I'm ready for a hearty hiker's lunch. 312 00:15:33,760 --> 00:15:37,175 Let's have some food. I've got some pate in here. 313 00:15:37,200 --> 00:15:39,815 OK. I have some bread. 314 00:15:39,840 --> 00:15:42,895 Patrice has also brought along some Genepi. 315 00:15:42,920 --> 00:15:46,295 It's made with flowers found on these mountains that are dried 316 00:15:46,320 --> 00:15:49,295 and steeped in a mix of sugar and alcohol, 317 00:15:49,320 --> 00:15:51,335 and it's popular with climbers. 318 00:15:51,360 --> 00:15:54,935 It's flower named Artemisia. 319 00:15:54,960 --> 00:16:01,215 We find this flower at 2,500 m. 320 00:16:01,240 --> 00:16:02,855 Cheers. Chin. 321 00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:07,895 Oh, gosh. That's a lovely liqueur. 322 00:16:07,920 --> 00:16:09,095 Yes. 323 00:16:09,120 --> 00:16:12,255 And let's hope the pate is lovely too. OK. Yes. 324 00:16:12,280 --> 00:16:13,615 You like that? 325 00:16:13,640 --> 00:16:15,015 Very good, yes. I ate it. 326 00:16:15,040 --> 00:16:16,175 Very nice. 327 00:16:16,200 --> 00:16:18,335 You came to the mountains when you were a child? 328 00:16:18,360 --> 00:16:19,335 Yes. 329 00:16:19,360 --> 00:16:20,815 I began at... 330 00:16:22,200 --> 00:16:24,415 ...five or six-years-old. 331 00:16:24,440 --> 00:16:25,575 Mm-hm. 332 00:16:25,600 --> 00:16:27,815 I lived in the city in Toulouse, 333 00:16:27,840 --> 00:16:32,735 but my parents liked very much the mountains and I discovered the 334 00:16:32,760 --> 00:16:35,335 Pyrenees during my holidays. 335 00:16:35,360 --> 00:16:37,295 I discovered nature. 336 00:16:37,320 --> 00:16:39,495 It's very, 337 00:16:39,520 --> 00:16:44,495 I find I'm very lucky to recognise animals, trees, 338 00:16:44,520 --> 00:16:47,935 flowers through meeting the people of the mountains. 339 00:16:47,960 --> 00:16:50,055 And... 340 00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:53,535 It might be better if you said it in French. 341 00:17:13,320 --> 00:17:17,575 So, the fact that people here have this big space, 342 00:17:17,600 --> 00:17:20,455 means that they don't like restraints. 343 00:17:20,480 --> 00:17:22,055 They don't like restrictions. 344 00:17:22,080 --> 00:17:23,855 They like liberty. 345 00:17:23,880 --> 00:17:26,895 And actually, you find down here very few physical barriers or 346 00:17:26,920 --> 00:17:27,975 other restraints. 347 00:17:28,000 --> 00:17:29,735 Very, very interesting. 348 00:17:29,760 --> 00:17:34,295 It has been a realjoy, a real privilege to share this cubby and 349 00:17:34,320 --> 00:17:37,335 to share this refuge with you. 350 00:17:37,360 --> 00:17:39,015 Thank you so much. 351 00:17:39,040 --> 00:17:40,495 Thank you very much, Michael. 352 00:17:40,520 --> 00:17:41,695 Mm. 353 00:17:51,040 --> 00:17:55,855 It was very interesting to hear Patrice talk about the fact that the 354 00:17:55,880 --> 00:17:59,655 people here find so much space in the Pyrenees 355 00:17:59,680 --> 00:18:02,895 and that spells to them liberty. 356 00:18:02,920 --> 00:18:06,815 You see people really are conditioned by their geography. 357 00:18:06,840 --> 00:18:09,095 There's no point in pretending otherwise. 358 00:18:23,640 --> 00:18:27,535 Yeah. A lovely green valley. 359 00:18:27,560 --> 00:18:29,095 And snowy peaks. 360 00:18:31,280 --> 00:18:34,215 What a relief when the rain lifts. 361 00:18:34,240 --> 00:18:38,255 Before, all this was shrouded in a dense white fog. 362 00:18:38,280 --> 00:18:41,095 And look what beauty has now emerged. 363 00:18:41,120 --> 00:18:45,135 And if I had my way, it would just clear a little bit more 364 00:18:45,160 --> 00:18:50,255 so that those smoky outlines will become wonderfully precise. 365 00:18:54,640 --> 00:18:57,055 The weather is finally on my side 366 00:18:57,080 --> 00:19:01,655 and the terrain too as I descend from hills to the rolling farmland 367 00:19:01,680 --> 00:19:03,495 of the Barguillere Valley 368 00:19:03,520 --> 00:19:06,935 to arrive at the Abbaye Notre Dame Du Pesquier. 369 00:19:09,920 --> 00:19:11,935 For the last 30 years it has been home 370 00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:15,775 to Benedictine nuns and novices who work the land 371 00:19:15,800 --> 00:19:16,815 and run a farm. 372 00:19:18,720 --> 00:19:22,295 Flush with the success of feeding Magali and Christian's pigs, 373 00:19:22,320 --> 00:19:24,895 I am hoping to be useful here too. 374 00:19:29,040 --> 00:19:32,175 Maseur! Bonjour. Bonjour. 375 00:19:32,200 --> 00:19:33,415 Je m'appelle Michael. 376 00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:40,615 May I help a tiny bit? 377 00:19:45,160 --> 00:19:46,575 Just a tiny bit. 378 00:19:46,600 --> 00:19:47,655 Yes, OK. 379 00:19:47,680 --> 00:19:49,375 Comme ca? 380 00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:50,375 Parfait? 381 00:19:55,160 --> 00:19:56,335 Yes. 382 00:19:56,360 --> 00:19:58,455 So, Raphael, how long have you been a nun? 383 00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:05,135 I had an aunt who was a Mother Superior, ajesuit in Spain. 384 00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:09,375 Vous pense deja tres enfant? 385 00:20:09,400 --> 00:20:11,575 Did you think about it as a very small child? 386 00:20:11,600 --> 00:20:13,455 I didn't. It was a surprise for me. Was it? 387 00:20:18,920 --> 00:20:20,215 Ce pas si jeune. 388 00:20:20,240 --> 00:20:21,695 It's not that young, actually. 389 00:20:50,120 --> 00:20:52,495 Par exemple, votre vi quotidien? 390 00:20:52,520 --> 00:20:54,055 What is your daily life? 391 00:20:54,080 --> 00:20:56,455 Sept fois parjour. 392 00:20:56,480 --> 00:20:58,375 Tu fara glas en priere. 393 00:20:58,400 --> 00:21:00,015 Sept fois? Sept fois. 394 00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:02,495 Seven times a clay, they will be in prayer. 395 00:21:06,080 --> 00:21:07,535 H e u re vo us reve I llez? 396 00:21:07,560 --> 00:21:09,455 What time do you get up in the morning? 397 00:21:13,160 --> 00:21:14,255 Et priez? 398 00:21:19,200 --> 00:21:20,615 'And then work. |. 399 00:21:22,400 --> 00:21:26,135 Sister Raphael looks after the Abbey's dairy cows. 400 00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:30,175 Following Saint Benedict's insistence on self-sufficiency, 401 00:21:30,200 --> 00:21:34,455 the nuns live on what they grow and produce within the community. 402 00:21:39,160 --> 00:21:40,415 Paradise. 403 00:21:40,440 --> 00:21:42,895 It is a paradise. It is a paradise. 404 00:21:42,920 --> 00:21:45,015 Is this context important for the abbey? 405 00:22:20,440 --> 00:22:23,215 My aunt, the Mother Superior, would not be happy with me. 406 00:22:23,240 --> 00:22:24,495 It's perfectly true. 407 00:22:24,520 --> 00:22:25,935 But I will pray for you. 408 00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:27,415 Merck Merck. 409 00:22:29,400 --> 00:22:32,495 I fear I'm a disappointment to the sister, 410 00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:36,335 but the community has kindly opened its doors to me, none the less. 411 00:22:36,360 --> 00:22:40,335 And I'm keen to understand more about their path through life. 412 00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:46,455 What a scene of absolute quiet and concentration. 413 00:22:48,720 --> 00:22:49,975 Bonjour, Maseur. 414 00:22:50,000 --> 00:22:51,175 Je m'appelle Michael. 415 00:22:51,200 --> 00:22:53,015 Quesque vous fait, s'il vous plait? 416 00:22:53,040 --> 00:22:54,015 What are you doing? 417 00:22:56,960 --> 00:22:58,655 Where did the book come from? 418 00:23:04,680 --> 00:23:05,975 It's very charming. 419 00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:09,295 This was brought by a client. 420 00:23:09,320 --> 00:23:11,895 It's passed through three generations, at least. 421 00:23:15,040 --> 00:23:18,815 And the first thing she does now is to straighten out the pages and 422 00:23:18,840 --> 00:23:20,935 repair the holes with a little bit of tape. 423 00:23:24,120 --> 00:23:25,175 Bonjour, Maseur. 424 00:24:12,960 --> 00:24:15,255 As the light begins to fade, 425 00:24:15,280 --> 00:24:19,775 the Abbey's nuns are called to the evening prayer known as Vespers. 426 00:24:24,560 --> 00:24:26,855 CHANTING 427 00:24:45,640 --> 00:24:51,295 What a beautiful, uplifting and thoroughly spiritual that was. 428 00:24:51,320 --> 00:24:53,775 A privilege to witness. 429 00:24:53,800 --> 00:24:58,375 These sisters devote themselves to prayer, 430 00:24:58,400 --> 00:25:00,015 to work, 431 00:25:00,040 --> 00:25:02,095 to contemplation. 432 00:25:02,120 --> 00:25:07,015 And the love of God clearly guides them through their lives. 433 00:25:12,880 --> 00:25:18,935 Well, a chill has returned to the air and the rain is back too. 434 00:25:18,960 --> 00:25:23,095 And twilight is settling on the abbey and its view of the Pyrenees. 435 00:25:25,400 --> 00:25:27,415 What is happiness in life? 436 00:25:27,440 --> 00:25:31,295 Today, I've met some very different people, living very different lives 437 00:25:31,320 --> 00:25:34,735 from each other and from me. 438 00:25:34,760 --> 00:25:39,295 What has not been in doubt is that they are living very happily. 439 00:25:57,240 --> 00:25:58,895 What a view. 440 00:25:58,920 --> 00:26:00,455 Extraordinary. 441 00:26:00,480 --> 00:26:03,895 It's not often that I'd say that I'm at one with nature, 442 00:26:03,920 --> 00:26:07,615 but there is something very special about being here. 443 00:26:07,640 --> 00:26:11,855 And at a point in life where I look back on much that has been, 444 00:26:11,880 --> 00:26:16,055 yet still look forward to an adventurous journey ahead. 445 00:26:16,080 --> 00:26:18,255 Ugh, it's a vigorous climb. 446 00:26:18,280 --> 00:26:22,015 Over three clays, I'm walking stretches of the French Pyrenees. 447 00:26:22,040 --> 00:26:24,455 And after yesterday's rain and mist, 448 00:26:24,480 --> 00:26:27,095 today looks a great deal better. 449 00:26:27,120 --> 00:26:31,135 The walker is always beset by one problem or another. 450 00:26:31,160 --> 00:26:35,935 So, I was soaked to the skin and my clothes were heavy with rain. 451 00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:37,615 That was a problem. 452 00:26:37,640 --> 00:26:39,575 Right now, I'm overdressed 453 00:26:39,600 --> 00:26:42,775 and I'm very hot 454 00:26:42,800 --> 00:26:44,575 and bothered. 455 00:26:49,160 --> 00:26:52,535 Thankfully, I'm not too far from my next rendezvous, 456 00:26:52,560 --> 00:26:55,335 where I'm swapping my two legs for four. 457 00:26:57,000 --> 00:27:01,295 Chloe Alazard is helping to protect a native breed of horse 458 00:27:01,320 --> 00:27:04,735 and assures me that the very best way to enjoy the mountains 459 00:27:04,760 --> 00:27:06,175 is in the saddle. 460 00:27:07,240 --> 00:27:09,215 I remain to be convinced. 461 00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:12,415 Bonjour, Chloe. 462 00:27:12,440 --> 00:27:13,855 Hello, Michael. 463 00:27:13,880 --> 00:27:16,175 Is it all right to touch the horse? Yes, sure. 464 00:27:16,200 --> 00:27:18,495 But this horse is called Cheval de Merens. 465 00:27:18,520 --> 00:27:21,255 It's really ancient breed. 466 00:27:21,280 --> 00:27:23,975 'And they are native from Ariege.|. 467 00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:28,615 From May to October, they are in the mountain. 468 00:27:28,640 --> 00:27:32,375 And they are in a place where there is a lot of really good grass, 469 00:27:32,400 --> 00:27:34,655 they are free. 470 00:27:34,680 --> 00:27:37,775 Ancl they wear the bells just like sheep so they can be found? 471 00:27:37,800 --> 00:27:39,055 Yeah, exactly. 472 00:27:40,600 --> 00:27:44,615 Transhumance, the tradition of moving sheep, cattle and horses 473 00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:47,215 up to the high grass for the summer, 474 00:27:47,240 --> 00:27:51,775 has been practised here since the Middle Ages. 475 00:27:51,800 --> 00:27:53,935 The fact he grew up in the mountain, 476 00:27:53,960 --> 00:27:56,175 it gives him a lot of strength 477 00:27:56,200 --> 00:28:00,095 and the ability to be able to face bad conditions. 478 00:28:00,120 --> 00:28:03,695 These horses can react to something but really quickly. 479 00:28:03,720 --> 00:28:06,415 So, if they have an incident, they quickly calm down. 480 00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:07,575 Yeah. 481 00:28:07,600 --> 00:28:08,935 What a very nice horse. 482 00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:12,455 There are about 1,500 horses here, 483 00:28:12,480 --> 00:28:15,615 but the arrival of modern farming methods meant that they were no 484 00:28:15,640 --> 00:28:19,175 longer needed in the mountains to pull machinery 485 00:28:19,200 --> 00:28:21,375 and were very much under threat. 486 00:28:21,400 --> 00:28:23,575 At one time, in the middle of the century, 487 00:28:23,600 --> 00:28:26,735 there was maybe 29 or 30 horses. 488 00:28:26,760 --> 00:28:28,575 Wow, you were almost extinct. 489 00:28:28,600 --> 00:28:30,535 Do you hear that? Almost extinct. 490 00:28:34,360 --> 00:28:37,055 OK, maybe you will help me, Michael? 491 00:28:37,080 --> 00:28:40,295 Because the seat is a little bit heavy. 492 00:28:44,560 --> 00:28:45,535 Perfect. 493 00:28:47,560 --> 00:28:49,495 Bring the tail through? Yeah. 494 00:28:52,080 --> 00:28:54,055 Very nice. Yeah. 495 00:28:54,080 --> 00:28:57,455 I'm always a bit nervous about going on a horse. 496 00:28:57,480 --> 00:29:00,975 I have ridden very rarely. 497 00:29:01,000 --> 00:29:03,895 But this fellow seems like about the calmest and nicest horse that 498 00:29:03,920 --> 00:29:05,535 you could possibly try it with. 499 00:29:08,720 --> 00:29:10,135 Allez-y. 500 00:29:18,440 --> 00:29:19,775 Allez-y. 501 00:29:25,240 --> 00:29:28,455 If there is a chance to eat something green. 502 00:29:30,240 --> 00:29:31,255 Alle. 503 00:29:31,280 --> 00:29:32,735 Allez-y. 504 00:29:37,840 --> 00:29:39,495 I'm really enjoying this. 505 00:29:39,520 --> 00:29:42,855 The countryside is so pretty in the sunshine. 506 00:29:42,880 --> 00:29:45,215 Got all the colours of spring 507 00:29:45,240 --> 00:29:48,895 and the light dusting of snow from last night. 508 00:29:48,920 --> 00:29:53,655 And this is the perfect animal for a novice like me. 509 00:29:53,680 --> 00:29:55,015 So calm. 510 00:29:56,160 --> 00:29:59,375 I feel like a Pyrenean cowboy here. 511 00:30:00,680 --> 00:30:03,175 It looks like you have clone it all your life. 512 00:30:03,200 --> 00:30:04,615 That's very sweet of you. 513 00:30:04,640 --> 00:30:06,255 You look so comfortable. 514 00:30:07,360 --> 00:30:09,295 Everything in this scene is Pyrenean. 515 00:30:09,320 --> 00:30:11,655 The landscape, the horse, 516 00:30:11,680 --> 00:30:12,735 the dog... 517 00:30:13,920 --> 00:30:15,495 Ah, but not the rider. 518 00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:19,295 Do you feel OK? It's perfect, thank you. Perfect. 519 00:30:20,600 --> 00:30:23,575 Sadly, it's time to leave Chloe behind 520 00:30:23,600 --> 00:30:26,175 and carry on my journey under my own steam. 521 00:30:26,200 --> 00:30:27,175 Phew! 522 00:30:28,440 --> 00:30:30,055 After miles of greenery, 523 00:30:30,080 --> 00:30:33,935 my route is taking me into the region's capital, Foix, 524 00:30:33,960 --> 00:30:36,695 and I have to say, I'm rather looking forward 525 00:30:36,720 --> 00:30:40,335 to a brief interlude of urban hustle and bustle. 526 00:30:42,600 --> 00:30:44,495 What a glorious sight. 527 00:30:44,520 --> 00:30:48,815 Looking down on Foix reminds me why I love small French towns so much. 528 00:30:48,840 --> 00:30:51,975 Their architecture, the colours, the shutters. 529 00:30:52,000 --> 00:30:54,575 The good food, the history. 530 00:30:54,600 --> 00:30:58,135 And Foix has a happy little pun in French, 531 00:30:58,160 --> 00:31:01,095 because Foix can mean time or occasion, 532 00:31:01,120 --> 00:31:05,055 so "il etait une fois" means "once upon a time". 533 00:31:05,080 --> 00:31:08,535 What better name for an historic town? 534 00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:16,215 Its magnificent castle dominates the skyline. 535 00:31:16,240 --> 00:31:20,055 For 300 years, it was home to a line of nobleman, 536 00:31:20,080 --> 00:31:23,535 who ruled over this fiercely independent region. 537 00:31:23,560 --> 00:31:28,615 Towards the end of the 13th century, when the Count of Foix was resisting 538 00:31:28,640 --> 00:31:32,215 being absorbed into France, into the French monarchy, 539 00:31:32,240 --> 00:31:34,495 the French king, Philip the Bold, 540 00:31:34,520 --> 00:31:38,295 came here himself and eventually defeated the Count. 541 00:31:40,960 --> 00:31:43,295 As lunchtime approaches, it is 542 00:31:43,320 --> 00:31:46,615 the perfect place for the weary walker to take a break. 543 00:31:46,640 --> 00:31:49,815 And, as luck would have it, I've arrived on market clay. 544 00:31:51,200 --> 00:31:53,775 Although the market is open to the four winds, 545 00:31:53,800 --> 00:31:56,695 there's an overpowering smell of cheese, 546 00:31:56,720 --> 00:31:59,935 and we are in asparagus season. 547 00:31:59,960 --> 00:32:01,615 Look at those things. 548 00:32:03,800 --> 00:32:04,975 Bonjour. 549 00:32:18,800 --> 00:32:19,895 Merck. 550 00:32:23,320 --> 00:32:24,935 Cow's cheese. Local cheese. 551 00:32:28,440 --> 00:32:29,415 Mm! 552 00:32:30,720 --> 00:32:31,855 Tres bon. Tres bon. 553 00:32:38,840 --> 00:32:39,975 Merci! 554 00:32:44,880 --> 00:32:47,015 In the early 13th century, 555 00:32:47,040 --> 00:32:49,535 this town in the Ariege region 556 00:32:49,560 --> 00:32:52,695 became the setting for a dark chapter in French history. 557 00:32:52,720 --> 00:32:56,015 A Christian sect, known as the Cathars, 558 00:32:56,040 --> 00:32:59,535 had flourished here, but the Roman Catholic church 559 00:32:59,560 --> 00:33:02,015 thought that they offered an heretical challenge 560 00:33:02,040 --> 00:33:03,775 to its authority. 561 00:33:03,800 --> 00:33:05,535 Heresy... 562 00:33:06,920 --> 00:33:09,895 ...is a set of beliefs so obnoxious to you 563 00:33:09,920 --> 00:33:13,015 that you have to close down the people who believe it. 564 00:33:13,040 --> 00:33:17,215 In the Middle Ages, that meant killing them off. 565 00:33:17,240 --> 00:33:21,055 In 1209, a bloody campaign unfolded, 566 00:33:21,080 --> 00:33:25,255 as Pope Innocent Ill ordered a war against the Cathars 567 00:33:25,280 --> 00:33:27,895 to crush their nonconformity. 568 00:33:27,920 --> 00:33:30,095 In this medieval genocide, 569 00:33:30,120 --> 00:33:33,015 many thousands are said to have been massacred. 570 00:33:36,560 --> 00:33:39,575 Somewhere up ahead is a series of caves. 571 00:33:41,080 --> 00:33:43,975 They are now home to vultures and eagles, 572 00:33:44,000 --> 00:33:45,495 but 800 years ago, 573 00:33:45,520 --> 00:33:49,695 they were used by the Cathars as a place of prayer and refuge. 574 00:33:52,560 --> 00:33:57,775 This windy little path is leading me up the side of a sheer rock face. 575 00:33:59,400 --> 00:34:00,495 Huh! 576 00:34:10,880 --> 00:34:15,135 These huge structures looking like bed springs, 577 00:34:15,160 --> 00:34:18,415 protect the valley from falling rock. 578 00:34:19,800 --> 00:34:21,735 But what protects the walker? 579 00:34:23,200 --> 00:34:24,495 And beyond the wires... 580 00:34:25,840 --> 00:34:27,335 ...a dark opening. 581 00:34:31,560 --> 00:34:34,535 The cave is absolutely immense. 582 00:34:34,560 --> 00:34:36,735 Catherine? Hello? 583 00:34:36,760 --> 00:34:38,095 There you are. 584 00:34:38,120 --> 00:34:40,815 Hi, Michael. It is good to see you. 585 00:34:40,840 --> 00:34:42,655 'And to see you here.|. 586 00:34:44,280 --> 00:34:46,575 Author and historian Catherine de Courcy 587 00:34:46,600 --> 00:34:49,775 came here to research her novel about the Cathar people. 588 00:34:51,080 --> 00:34:54,455 This extraordinary cave, with which you have a long history, I think. 589 00:34:54,480 --> 00:34:56,335 What did the Cathars believe? 590 00:34:56,360 --> 00:34:59,255 Well, they were Christians who devoted their lives 591 00:34:59,280 --> 00:35:00,655 so completely to prayer, 592 00:35:00,680 --> 00:35:04,215 but we do know that they spent time in caves in deep meditation. 593 00:35:04,240 --> 00:35:07,255 They wouldn't eat meat, they didn't have intimate relationships. 594 00:35:07,280 --> 00:35:09,975 They had no churches, they had no statues. 595 00:35:10,000 --> 00:35:11,295 When they were young, 596 00:35:11,320 --> 00:35:13,535 they were helped by a holy person to find a stone, 597 00:35:13,560 --> 00:35:17,815 and on that stone they would etch an image of their own soul 598 00:35:17,840 --> 00:35:19,495 over their lifetime. 599 00:35:19,520 --> 00:35:22,055 It was their connection with holy God, 600 00:35:22,080 --> 00:35:24,095 with the heavens, with the spirit. 601 00:35:24,120 --> 00:35:27,975 And why did the Catholic church of Rome believe it to be heresy? 602 00:35:28,000 --> 00:35:30,495 Rome had for a couple of centuries been consolidating 603 00:35:30,520 --> 00:35:32,175 its path throughout Western Europe. 604 00:35:32,200 --> 00:35:34,215 In the 12th century, 605 00:35:34,240 --> 00:35:37,975 it had moved into this area, and was trying to persuade 606 00:35:38,000 --> 00:35:42,695 the local people to accept the rule of Rome 607 00:35:42,720 --> 00:35:44,215 in their spiritual lives. 608 00:35:46,360 --> 00:35:50,975 Catherine's studies led her to the nearby castle of Montsegur 609 00:35:51,000 --> 00:35:56,455 where in 1244, Cathars had taken shelter from the papal Crusaders. 610 00:35:57,880 --> 00:36:01,135 Of this 400 or so people who were still living on the mountain 611 00:36:01,160 --> 00:36:03,295 after a ten month siege, 612 00:36:03,320 --> 00:36:07,535 221 preferred to die in a fire, 613 00:36:07,560 --> 00:36:12,895 rather than to submit to the control of Rome in their spiritual lives. 614 00:36:12,920 --> 00:36:14,695 'And this intrigued me.|. 615 00:36:14,720 --> 00:36:17,535 What I wanted to do was to see why they were so determined to hold 616 00:36:17,560 --> 00:36:21,815 on to what they had, despite the threats that they were faced with. 617 00:36:21,840 --> 00:36:25,055 To understand the Cathars' spiritualjourney, 618 00:36:25,080 --> 00:36:29,295 Catherine spent more than two clays alone in this cave, 619 00:36:29,320 --> 00:36:32,775 achieving her own meditative inspiration. 620 00:36:32,800 --> 00:36:36,735 She has offered to give me an insight into that experience. 621 00:36:38,840 --> 00:36:40,495 It gets pretty murky, doesn't it? 622 00:36:40,520 --> 00:36:43,415 It does. I have a torch here that I can turn on. 623 00:36:43,440 --> 00:36:46,295 You get a sense of this cave. 624 00:36:49,760 --> 00:36:53,735 This is the outer part of the cave. Do we go through there? 625 00:36:53,760 --> 00:36:56,655 Through here, yes. We'lljust go on through to the back. 626 00:36:56,680 --> 00:36:58,775 Shall I lead the way? Yes. 627 00:37:00,000 --> 00:37:01,055 Please. 628 00:37:09,880 --> 00:37:14,055 Ancl this is where I spent 60 hours. My goodness. 629 00:37:28,800 --> 00:37:33,815 So, Catherine. We have arrived in your cave. Welcome. 630 00:37:35,240 --> 00:37:39,455 As I near the end of this stretch of my walk, my spiritual quest 631 00:37:39,480 --> 00:37:43,135 has brought me to the back of a very dark mountain cave. 632 00:37:43,160 --> 00:37:45,215 I set myself up there in the corner. 633 00:37:45,240 --> 00:37:49,095 I had warm clothes because, you can feel it, it is cold in here. 634 00:37:49,120 --> 00:37:53,335 I had cushions, and I had food, and I settled in. 635 00:37:53,360 --> 00:37:56,095 Perhaps what I suggest we do is we just turn off the lights for a few 636 00:37:56,120 --> 00:37:59,295 seconds, just to give you a sense of what it is like in the dark. 637 00:38:00,880 --> 00:38:03,455 Author Catherine de Courcy spent two clays 638 00:38:03,480 --> 00:38:06,495 and two nights in this cavern as part of her research 639 00:38:06,520 --> 00:38:09,255 into a religious group called the Cathars, 640 00:38:09,280 --> 00:38:11,735 who were present here 800 years ago. 641 00:38:13,960 --> 00:38:17,175 It's an extraordinary feeling, isn't it? Almost total darkness. 642 00:38:18,600 --> 00:38:21,095 Absolutely cut off from the outside world. 643 00:38:21,120 --> 00:38:24,455 And you were here hour after hour with your own thoughts. 644 00:38:24,480 --> 00:38:26,135 Do you want to light a candle? 645 00:38:29,080 --> 00:38:30,415 Lovely. 646 00:38:30,440 --> 00:38:32,255 Well, I can see you now. 647 00:38:33,640 --> 00:38:36,935 It really is total darkness in here, isn't it? 648 00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:40,335 Pitch dark. But strangely, the time... 649 00:38:41,680 --> 00:38:42,935 ...passed. 650 00:38:42,960 --> 00:38:45,575 I can't even say it flew, it just passed. 651 00:38:45,600 --> 00:38:47,415 It was like suspended. 652 00:38:47,440 --> 00:38:51,415 The Cathars would go into deep meditation for months on end, 653 00:38:51,440 --> 00:38:55,735 and so I thought I would spend 60 hours, 654 00:38:55,760 --> 00:38:58,615 just to get that sense of who they were. 655 00:38:58,640 --> 00:39:00,815 What was the most important moment for you? 656 00:39:00,840 --> 00:39:04,855 It was probably about midway through the time I was here. 657 00:39:04,880 --> 00:39:06,335 And... 658 00:39:06,360 --> 00:39:07,935 ...| was drifting. 659 00:39:07,960 --> 00:39:11,455 I might have been half asleep. I don't really know. 660 00:39:11,480 --> 00:39:16,415 I began to get this sense of total peace. 661 00:39:16,440 --> 00:39:19,935 It just felt quite extraordinarily beautiful, 662 00:39:19,960 --> 00:39:25,295 and that, to me, was the moment where I felt this is... 663 00:39:25,320 --> 00:39:27,495 This is what they knew. 664 00:39:27,520 --> 00:39:32,175 And this is what Rome was going to destroy. 665 00:39:32,200 --> 00:39:34,375 I'm very glad that you achieved that. 666 00:39:34,400 --> 00:39:37,135 And I'm struck that most people would think that religion 667 00:39:37,160 --> 00:39:38,775 and church were the same thing. 668 00:39:38,800 --> 00:39:41,375 But religion doesn't have to have churches, 669 00:39:41,400 --> 00:39:43,815 and so here I am, sitting in a cave with you... 670 00:39:44,920 --> 00:39:48,895 "learning a new perspective on religion, 671 00:39:48,920 --> 00:39:52,935 thanks to the views of people who were here in the Middle Ages. 672 00:39:52,960 --> 00:39:54,175 Yeah. 673 00:40:00,160 --> 00:40:03,615 Well, I have remained behind in the cave now Catherine has gone, 674 00:40:03,640 --> 00:40:06,855 just to see how I feel about solitude. 675 00:40:10,160 --> 00:40:13,295 For some reason, the darkness of this cave is not scary. 676 00:40:15,200 --> 00:40:16,415 It is very peaceful. 677 00:40:19,960 --> 00:40:21,335 But it's not for me. 678 00:40:24,200 --> 00:40:25,335 Daylight again. 679 00:40:26,600 --> 00:40:27,975 To me, it is a relief, 680 00:40:28,000 --> 00:40:33,215 and what a paradox that you go into a dark cave to seek enlightenment. 681 00:40:33,240 --> 00:40:37,135 I don't feel as if I have achieved a personal enlightenment 682 00:40:37,160 --> 00:40:40,975 but I have been educated by Catherine's experiences, 683 00:40:41,000 --> 00:40:44,095 and by reflections on the Cathars. 684 00:40:49,600 --> 00:40:53,255 It seems fitting to end my route on the Cathar way, 685 00:40:53,280 --> 00:40:55,815 stretching 160 miles eastwards, 686 00:40:55,840 --> 00:40:59,655 tracing the paths walked by the Cathars in medievaltimes. 687 00:41:04,680 --> 00:41:07,855 High above the tiny village of Roquefixade 688 00:41:07,880 --> 00:41:11,775 stands the ruin of one of nine castles along the trail. 689 00:41:11,800 --> 00:41:15,975 This place once served as a haven for those under attack, 690 00:41:16,000 --> 00:41:18,295 and it's my final destination. 691 00:41:20,680 --> 00:41:24,015 That is, unless Mother Nature stands in my way. 692 00:41:25,520 --> 00:41:28,535 First of April, but this is no joke. 693 00:41:28,560 --> 00:41:30,255 A snow storm. 694 00:41:32,400 --> 00:41:36,015 On this walk, the skies have thrown everything at me now. 695 00:41:37,400 --> 00:41:41,015 The snow is going upwards, which is unusualto me. 696 00:41:43,680 --> 00:41:45,815 I thought the rain was bad enough. 697 00:41:48,720 --> 00:41:51,295 Lungs burning in the icy air. 698 00:41:51,320 --> 00:41:54,655 Far above me, my destination. 699 00:41:54,680 --> 00:41:58,015 The castle of Roquefixade. 700 00:42:05,000 --> 00:42:07,015 What must this climb have been like 701 00:42:07,040 --> 00:42:09,655 for the desperate Cathar men and women, 702 00:42:09,680 --> 00:42:11,815 being hunted down for their faith? 703 00:42:13,320 --> 00:42:14,695 The higher I go, 704 00:42:14,720 --> 00:42:18,335 the more heavily the snow is falling. 705 00:42:18,360 --> 00:42:19,615 This is really tough. 706 00:42:20,840 --> 00:42:23,735 But the castle is in view now, looking as I feel. 707 00:42:23,760 --> 00:42:25,415 A bit ruined. 708 00:42:28,960 --> 00:42:31,175 Ah, this is a good, flat bit here. 709 00:42:31,200 --> 00:42:32,775 Make some progress. 710 00:42:38,280 --> 00:42:41,175 WIND HOWLS 711 00:42:43,280 --> 00:42:44,535 Ahh! 712 00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:48,415 HE LAUGHS 713 00:42:48,440 --> 00:42:49,575 I made it! 714 00:42:50,800 --> 00:42:52,375 What drama. 715 00:42:52,400 --> 00:42:55,895 The blizzard swirling around the ancient battlements. 716 00:42:55,920 --> 00:42:58,015 How completely Gothic. 717 00:43:01,520 --> 00:43:07,575 And, as quickly as it descended, the wild snowstorm lifts, 718 00:43:07,600 --> 00:43:11,815 and I'm rewarded for my efforts with a magnificent view. 719 00:43:11,840 --> 00:43:15,375 I've been walking in an area of the Pyrenees 720 00:43:15,400 --> 00:43:19,095 where geography and history have created a 721 00:43:19,120 --> 00:43:22,615 self-sufficient and independent-minded people. 722 00:43:24,120 --> 00:43:25,895 In these wide open spaces, 723 00:43:25,920 --> 00:43:28,455 they didn't want to accept restrictions, 724 00:43:28,480 --> 00:43:32,655 and their ancestors battled popes and French kings 725 00:43:32,680 --> 00:43:34,895 for the right to be autonomous. 726 00:43:36,840 --> 00:43:40,735 And, the people I've met have given me much to think about 727 00:43:40,760 --> 00:43:43,335 with their very different lifestyles. 728 00:43:43,360 --> 00:43:47,255 Ancl I'm not going to follow anything in their choices. 729 00:43:47,280 --> 00:43:49,615 But it has impressed upon me 730 00:43:49,640 --> 00:43:53,935 how free is the human spirit to choose its own way. 731 00:43:53,960 --> 00:43:56,215 And that is inspiring. 732 00:44:02,320 --> 00:44:06,055 Next time in the Catalonian Pyrenees, I am on a 733 00:44:06,080 --> 00:44:10,295 deeply personal quest, as I explore my father's route to freedom. 734 00:44:10,320 --> 00:44:13,175 Can you imagine hundreds of people walking up here? 735 00:44:13,200 --> 00:44:16,655 I hope he might think that my coming is a tribute to him. 736 00:44:16,680 --> 00:44:19,135 I discover a love of the landscape... 737 00:44:19,160 --> 00:44:22,295 What was it that you missed about this place? 738 00:44:22,320 --> 00:44:23,495 The jOY- 739 00:44:23,520 --> 00:44:26,575 ...and celebrate on the Mediterranean coast. 740 00:44:26,600 --> 00:44:28,215 Down to the sea. 741 00:44:28,240 --> 00:44:31,015 That is the finishing line! 742 00:44:54,040 --> 00:44:56,815 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 56216

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