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1
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This is really tough.
2
00:00:04,840 --> 00:00:06,775
But the castle is in view now,
3
00:00:06,800 --> 00:00:08,375
looking as I feel,
4
00:00:08,400 --> 00:00:10,175
a bit ruined.
5
00:00:10,200 --> 00:00:13,935
I'm going on a journey
of self-discovery.
6
00:00:13,960 --> 00:00:15,335
What a place!
7
00:00:15,360 --> 00:00:18,695
Walking stretches between
the summits of the
8
00:00:18,720 --> 00:00:20,855
Spanish and French Pyrenees.
9
00:00:20,880 --> 00:00:22,215
My Word!
10
00:00:22,240 --> 00:00:25,335
Approaching three score years
and ten,
11
00:00:25,360 --> 00:00:27,015
I have much to reflect on.
12
00:00:27,040 --> 00:00:29,935
What is the secret of being happy
in life do you think, now?
13
00:00:29,960 --> 00:00:34,215
So, I'm challenging myself
on an ambitious mountain adventure.
14
00:00:34,240 --> 00:00:35,975
HE GROANS
15
00:00:40,640 --> 00:00:43,095
I'll start at the Atlantic Ocean,
16
00:00:43,120 --> 00:00:46,095
crossing borders between Spain
and France,
17
00:00:46,120 --> 00:00:48,615
and end at the Mediterranean Sea.
18
00:00:50,120 --> 00:00:52,135
Meeting the people who live here.
19
00:00:52,160 --> 00:00:54,655
Working on the land together,
everybody's equal.
20
00:00:54,680 --> 00:00:56,415
'And that's when you really bond.|.
21
00:00:56,440 --> 00:00:58,095
It's like falling in love again.
22
00:00:58,120 --> 00:01:02,095
I began to get this sense of
total peace.
23
00:01:02,120 --> 00:01:03,575
I'll test myself physically...
24
00:01:07,160 --> 00:01:08,935
This is no joke!
25
00:01:08,960 --> 00:01:12,095
...and have time to contemplate
the past.
26
00:01:12,120 --> 00:01:16,295
Somewhere through these hills, my
father walked to leave Spain as a
27
00:01:16,320 --> 00:01:17,615
political refugee.
28
00:01:19,360 --> 00:01:23,895
Open to whatever this personal
quest may teach me.
29
00:01:23,920 --> 00:01:28,495
It has impressed upon me, how free
is the human spirit
30
00:01:28,520 --> 00:01:30,135
to choose it's own way.
31
00:01:30,160 --> 00:01:31,975
And that is inspiring.
32
00:01:55,760 --> 00:01:57,935
Cafe au lait.
33
00:01:57,960 --> 00:01:59,135
Merck.
34
00:01:59,160 --> 00:02:00,295
Du jus d'orange.
35
00:02:02,920 --> 00:02:04,055
Le confit triomphe.
36
00:02:05,800 --> 00:02:06,855
Voila.
37
00:02:06,880 --> 00:02:10,095
So, I was feeling rather optimistic
about this leg of the trip.
38
00:02:10,120 --> 00:02:13,295
We're right at the end of March now,
39
00:02:13,320 --> 00:02:15,575
it ought really to be
spring weather.
40
00:02:15,600 --> 00:02:21,055
But now, I look out the window and
this rain looks as if it's set in.
41
00:02:22,840 --> 00:02:25,215
I'm sitting here by the fire,
42
00:02:25,240 --> 00:02:29,895
trying to absorb all the heat and
all the dry that I can.
43
00:02:29,920 --> 00:02:33,575
The mountain over there appeared
and my hopes were up,
44
00:02:33,600 --> 00:02:36,815
my heart went pitter-patter, I
thought the weather was improving.
45
00:02:36,840 --> 00:02:38,975
But it has disappeared again.
46
00:02:39,000 --> 00:02:40,855
So, there's no point hanging around,
47
00:02:40,880 --> 00:02:43,535
I'm going to have to take up my
walking stick, my makhila,
48
00:02:43,560 --> 00:02:45,895
and head off into the elements.
49
00:02:47,640 --> 00:02:49,495
Over the next three clays,
50
00:02:49,520 --> 00:02:53,495
I'll be walking through an area of
the French Pyrenees called Ariege,
51
00:02:53,520 --> 00:02:56,535
on a quest to discover why some
people thriving here
52
00:02:56,560 --> 00:02:59,135
have turned their backs on
previous lives,
53
00:02:59,160 --> 00:03:01,975
to find new ones in the mountains.
54
00:03:02,000 --> 00:03:03,495
Au revoir, adieu.
55
00:03:10,240 --> 00:03:14,695
Along the way, I'll be asking a
couple why they gave up city life
56
00:03:14,720 --> 00:03:21,095
to rear pigs, before I spend time
with Benedictine nuns in confession.
57
00:03:21,120 --> 00:03:24,815
My route will take me into a
pre-historic cave
58
00:03:24,840 --> 00:03:29,615
where I'll delve into the spiritual
world of the persecuted Cathars,
59
00:03:29,640 --> 00:03:31,655
who were forced to flee.
60
00:03:31,680 --> 00:03:34,575
Ancl then I'll climb to the castle
of Roquefixade
61
00:03:34,600 --> 00:03:36,295
as my final challenge.
62
00:03:47,200 --> 00:03:53,215
Even in the rain, I'm aware of how
lovely is this mountain air.
63
00:03:53,240 --> 00:03:57,415
I just feel I'm breathing free,
64
00:03:57,440 --> 00:03:59,615
walking free,
65
00:03:59,640 --> 00:04:00,895
being free.
66
00:04:03,120 --> 00:04:06,655
Whilst this landscape is
strikingly beautiful,
67
00:04:06,680 --> 00:04:08,815
it's also pretty tough going.
68
00:04:11,520 --> 00:04:14,935
When you slip back
69
00:04:14,960 --> 00:04:18,775
with every step forward on this
slimy grass and mud,
70
00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:20,255
it makes things quite tricky.
71
00:04:22,240 --> 00:04:23,655
UP We go.
72
00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:26,015
But if you walk in the mountains,
73
00:04:26,040 --> 00:04:28,135
some clays will be good and others
will not.
74
00:04:31,040 --> 00:04:33,695
The Ariege region of the Pyrenees,
75
00:04:33,720 --> 00:04:36,335
400 miles clue south of Paris,
76
00:04:36,360 --> 00:04:40,655
is one of the wildest and most
unspoilt in the whole of France,
77
00:04:40,680 --> 00:04:44,175
and ruraltraditions run deep.
78
00:04:44,200 --> 00:04:48,415
The people in this far southern
region of France have a bit of a
79
00:04:48,440 --> 00:04:50,855
reputation for being resentful
of authority.
80
00:04:50,880 --> 00:04:52,535
You might say a little bit bolshie.
81
00:04:52,560 --> 00:04:54,895
France is a notoriously
centralised country.
82
00:04:54,920 --> 00:04:58,935
And these people are
not metropolitan.
83
00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:04,855
They are hill farmers and they don't
like being told what to do
84
00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:07,055
by people in the capital city.
85
00:05:07,080 --> 00:05:10,655
And I have a lot of sympathy for
that because I'm,
86
00:05:10,680 --> 00:05:12,495
you might be surprised to hear this,
87
00:05:12,520 --> 00:05:14,415
a bit of a rebel against authority.
88
00:05:14,440 --> 00:05:16,935
Oh, yeah, you'll say, "But you've
been a part of government."
89
00:05:16,960 --> 00:05:21,295
Yes, and I wanted small government
and I wanted less government.
90
00:05:21,320 --> 00:05:25,775
So, I have a lot of sympathy for
these people a long way from Paris
91
00:05:25,800 --> 00:05:27,575
saying, "Don't tell me what to do."
92
00:05:33,720 --> 00:05:37,175
On a clear spring clay, up at
900 metres,
93
00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:39,415
the scenery here is breathtaking.
94
00:05:41,000 --> 00:05:45,175
Even in the mist and the rain, it is
a truly an enchanting area.
95
00:05:46,600 --> 00:05:50,055
Many people who are born here never
move away,
96
00:05:50,080 --> 00:05:54,735
Ancl it's also home to others who
arrived and never left.
97
00:05:54,760 --> 00:05:57,815
I've arranged to meet a young couple
from Luxembourg
98
00:05:57,840 --> 00:06:01,655
to hear what about this area
made them settle.
99
00:06:01,680 --> 00:06:05,615
This is very much, literally, off
the beaten track.
100
00:06:05,640 --> 00:06:09,895
This could not be more different
from my urban metropolitan life.
101
00:06:11,200 --> 00:06:14,095
That's if I can find them.
102
00:06:14,120 --> 00:06:18,015
Why exactly would anyone want to
103
00:06:18,040 --> 00:06:25,655
move to this sheer slope in southern
France in order to farm pigs?
104
00:06:25,680 --> 00:06:27,775
The mystery will be revealed.
105
00:06:30,760 --> 00:06:31,855
Hello, hello.
106
00:06:31,880 --> 00:06:33,215
Great to see you, I'm Michael!
107
00:06:33,240 --> 00:06:35,015
I'm Magali! I'm Christian!
108
00:06:35,040 --> 00:06:38,575
Even on a terrible clay like this,
you have a superb view.
109
00:06:38,600 --> 00:06:39,735
Yes.
110
00:06:39,760 --> 00:06:40,975
Thank you very much.
111
00:06:41,000 --> 00:06:44,255
Was one of the motivations for
coming here the beauty of the place?
112
00:06:44,280 --> 00:06:45,455
Yes.
113
00:06:45,480 --> 00:06:47,495
How did you decide to come here?
114
00:06:47,520 --> 00:06:51,735
We travelled through Europe in
camper van two years with our kids.
115
00:06:51,760 --> 00:06:54,295
And then, we fell in love
with France.
116
00:06:54,320 --> 00:06:56,655
We didn't actually plan to buy
something here.
117
00:06:56,680 --> 00:07:00,855
We saw an announcement on social
media and then we just thought,
118
00:07:00,880 --> 00:07:02,175
let's check it out.
119
00:07:02,200 --> 00:07:04,495
We couldn't say no after having
been here.
120
00:07:04,520 --> 00:07:05,935
It's a blessed feeling.
121
00:07:05,960 --> 00:07:08,095
What was that feeling?
122
00:07:08,120 --> 00:07:09,775
It's like falling in love again.
123
00:07:09,800 --> 00:07:12,695
Coming home. Coming home.
124
00:07:12,720 --> 00:07:15,655
But you weren'tjust buying a house,
you were buying a farm.
125
00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:17,215
You were buying a business.
126
00:07:17,240 --> 00:07:18,695
Yes, we bought a pig farm.
127
00:07:18,720 --> 00:07:20,535
Were you pig farmers in Luxembourg?
128
00:07:20,560 --> 00:07:25,055
Not at all. I was an electrician.
129
00:07:25,080 --> 00:07:26,575
I'm a nurse.
130
00:07:26,600 --> 00:07:29,175
Was there something you were getting
away from?
131
00:07:29,200 --> 00:07:31,615
Was there something in Luxembourg
you didn't like?
132
00:07:31,640 --> 00:07:33,135
Was it too urban?
133
00:07:33,160 --> 00:07:36,335
Was it too much of a rat race,
as we say in English?
134
00:07:36,360 --> 00:07:37,815
Yeah, it's something like that.
135
00:07:37,840 --> 00:07:40,055
Land was too expensive.
136
00:07:40,080 --> 00:07:42,335
It's a lot of stress there.
137
00:07:42,360 --> 00:07:44,535
Everyone wants to have a
bigger garden
138
00:07:44,560 --> 00:07:48,895
and better looking house and we were
like, we don't want to compete.
139
00:07:48,920 --> 00:07:51,415
In English, we have expression,
keeping up with thejoneses,
140
00:07:51,440 --> 00:07:53,615
which means always competing with
your neighbours.
141
00:07:53,640 --> 00:07:54,815
And you didn't like that?
142
00:07:54,840 --> 00:07:56,655
We were seeking for something more
in life.
143
00:07:56,680 --> 00:07:57,895
Yeah. Yeah.
144
00:07:57,920 --> 00:08:00,815
Have you chosen quite a tough life?
Is it difficult here?
145
00:08:00,840 --> 00:08:02,295
Yes. Yes.
146
00:08:02,320 --> 00:08:03,695
We're out in the mountains.
147
00:08:03,720 --> 00:08:04,895
Everything is difficult.
148
00:08:04,920 --> 00:08:06,375
Yeah, it's a full-time job.
149
00:08:06,400 --> 00:08:09,015
But we got lots of help from the
people around here.
150
00:08:09,040 --> 00:08:11,295
We have very friendly neighbours.
151
00:08:11,320 --> 00:08:13,735
The community welcomed us with
everything they could.
152
00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,055
How nice. Have you made
good friendships?
153
00:08:16,080 --> 00:08:19,455
Yes, we have a lot of very creative
people here around.
154
00:08:19,480 --> 00:08:22,575
Artistic people and
very alternative.
155
00:08:22,600 --> 00:08:24,775
Yeah. You don't see these people in
big cities.
156
00:08:24,800 --> 00:08:26,695
They are self-sufficient,
most of them.
157
00:08:26,720 --> 00:08:27,815
Yeah.
158
00:08:27,840 --> 00:08:30,015
And they love to share
their knowledge.
159
00:08:30,040 --> 00:08:31,615
Well, let's go look at
those piggies.
160
00:08:31,640 --> 00:08:32,655
Sure.
161
00:08:32,680 --> 00:08:33,735
Give me a little tour.
162
00:08:35,320 --> 00:08:39,695
The farm's 40 black pigs are a rare
breed known as Gascon Noir
163
00:08:39,720 --> 00:08:42,975
that has lived in this Pyrenean
region for centuries.
164
00:08:43,000 --> 00:08:45,575
Off we go, down the hill.
165
00:08:45,600 --> 00:08:48,415
They're thought to be the oldest
variety in France,
166
00:08:48,440 --> 00:08:51,535
famed for their dark marbled meat.
167
00:08:51,560 --> 00:08:53,015
I hear the squealing of pigs.
168
00:08:53,040 --> 00:08:54,855
Yes. Here we are.
169
00:08:54,880 --> 00:08:59,535
This is the barn where he have
our small piglets and their mums.
170
00:08:59,560 --> 00:09:00,975
Oh, hello.
171
00:09:01,000 --> 00:09:02,575
Hello, hello, hello.
172
00:09:02,600 --> 00:09:03,695
Piggie.
173
00:09:04,920 --> 00:09:06,535
They're lovely! Yes.
174
00:09:06,560 --> 00:09:07,535
Hello!
175
00:09:09,760 --> 00:09:11,895
Hello, mama's house.
176
00:09:11,920 --> 00:09:13,295
Oh, these are big pigs.
177
00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:16,415
Gosh.
178
00:09:16,440 --> 00:09:17,535
Yes.
179
00:09:17,560 --> 00:09:19,135
And any more outside?
180
00:09:19,160 --> 00:09:22,335
Yes. All the other pigs, they are
living outside in fresh air.
181
00:09:22,360 --> 00:09:24,495
Oh, look. They're all lined up
for us.
182
00:09:24,520 --> 00:09:25,575
Yes.
183
00:09:25,600 --> 00:09:27,375
As though they were ready for
a race.
184
00:09:27,400 --> 00:09:29,055
Yes.
185
00:09:29,080 --> 00:09:32,015
Hello. Oh, you got a bit muddy
haven't you, piggies?
186
00:09:34,480 --> 00:09:39,575
Life here is deeply connected to the
landscape and to nature.
187
00:09:39,600 --> 00:09:45,415
Novice pig farmers Magali and
Christian have had to adapt quickly.
188
00:09:45,440 --> 00:09:48,615
How do you feel when it comes to
slaughtering your pigs?
189
00:09:48,640 --> 00:09:50,815
It's not a good feeling, I have
to admit.
190
00:09:50,840 --> 00:09:54,095
But you have to say that, we know
that they had a good life and treat
191
00:09:54,120 --> 00:09:56,535
them with all the respect we can.
192
00:09:56,560 --> 00:09:58,535
It's the best we can do for them.
193
00:09:58,560 --> 00:10:00,695
They sound as though they're hungry
right now.
194
00:10:00,720 --> 00:10:01,815
Yes, do you want to feed them?
195
00:10:01,840 --> 00:10:03,615
Yes? Sure, yeah. Yeah.
196
00:10:03,640 --> 00:10:05,375
Ah, the pigs recognise the food.
197
00:10:05,400 --> 00:10:08,415
Yes. OK, do you mind just
holding that?
198
00:10:08,440 --> 00:10:10,215
So, what do I have to do here?
199
00:10:10,240 --> 00:10:13,535
You have to be fast because they
will be fast too.
200
00:10:13,560 --> 00:10:15,095
'And make a big line.|.
201
00:10:15,120 --> 00:10:16,775
OK, boys!
202
00:10:16,800 --> 00:10:18,655
Hurray!
203
00:10:18,680 --> 00:10:20,055
Lunch time!
204
00:10:21,720 --> 00:10:22,855
Was that right?
205
00:10:22,880 --> 00:10:24,375
Perfect.
206
00:10:24,400 --> 00:10:26,775
Ooh, that food goes quickly.
Look at that.
207
00:10:26,800 --> 00:10:28,935
It's the first time you've fed pigs?
208
00:10:28,960 --> 00:10:30,255
I think so. Yes?
209
00:10:30,280 --> 00:10:31,695
And even if I had,
210
00:10:31,720 --> 00:10:35,535
these would be the prettiest pigs
I'd ever fed.
211
00:10:35,560 --> 00:10:39,215
Magali and Christian produce around
50 products,
212
00:10:39,240 --> 00:10:42,095
including pate and salami.
213
00:10:42,120 --> 00:10:45,015
As I try my best to forget how cute
these pigs are,
214
00:10:45,040 --> 00:10:49,655
my hosts invite me to sample some of
their home-made delights.
215
00:10:49,680 --> 00:10:53,335
We are having a summer Pate with all
the herbs growing in the summer.
216
00:10:56,520 --> 00:10:57,615
It smells divine.
217
00:10:57,640 --> 00:10:59,855
Let me try that. Thank you
very much.
218
00:10:59,880 --> 00:11:00,975
You're welcome.
219
00:11:03,160 --> 00:11:04,975
That is delicious!
220
00:11:05,000 --> 00:11:06,135
You taste the love.
221
00:11:07,600 --> 00:11:09,295
Which is your favourite product?
222
00:11:09,320 --> 00:11:12,095
My favourite is the sauces
with the pecan nuts.
223
00:11:12,120 --> 00:11:13,855
Try this.
224
00:11:13,880 --> 00:11:15,095
That is excellent.
225
00:11:15,120 --> 00:11:16,215
Thank you.
226
00:11:16,240 --> 00:11:17,535
It's been lovely seeing you.
227
00:11:17,560 --> 00:11:22,335
Cos I really feel like I've met very
happy, very contented pair of people
228
00:11:22,360 --> 00:11:24,735
who have made who have made a big
decision for yourselves
229
00:11:24,760 --> 00:11:26,215
and for your children, my goodness.
230
00:11:26,240 --> 00:11:27,815
And you're really happy with it.
231
00:11:27,840 --> 00:11:29,575
Thank you, it was nice meeting you.
232
00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:31,095
You want to take some pate?
233
00:11:31,120 --> 00:11:32,215
You are so kind.
234
00:11:32,240 --> 00:11:35,135
I can imagine myself on a hillside,
235
00:11:35,160 --> 00:11:37,935
having little picnic and thinking of
you two.
236
00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:39,415
Thank you so much.
237
00:11:39,440 --> 00:11:40,895
Bye-bye! Bye!
238
00:11:43,800 --> 00:11:47,295
Magali and Christian are
an inspiration,
239
00:11:47,320 --> 00:11:51,015
they've followed their hearts to
start a new existence,
240
00:11:51,040 --> 00:11:54,615
a more fulfilling life in
these mountains.
241
00:11:54,640 --> 00:11:57,255
It's a brave decision
242
00:11:57,280 --> 00:12:00,255
and I believe not one that I
could make.
243
00:12:11,520 --> 00:12:14,575
The rain continues.
244
00:12:14,600 --> 00:12:17,255
The visibility has got worse.
245
00:12:19,040 --> 00:12:23,895
My clothes are heavy with sogginess.
246
00:12:23,920 --> 00:12:25,255
This is really tough.
247
00:12:28,120 --> 00:12:31,895
I'm on the third leg of my spiritual
Pyrenean adventure,
248
00:12:31,920 --> 00:12:35,015
this time in France's Ariege region.
249
00:12:35,040 --> 00:12:39,535
Ancl scaling this mountain at 1,300
metres is testing my endurance.
250
00:12:41,200 --> 00:12:45,015
Not least because I'm at the mercy
of the elements.
251
00:12:45,040 --> 00:12:46,495
Ah!
252
00:12:46,520 --> 00:12:49,535
Gosh, it must be so difficult
living here.
253
00:12:49,560 --> 00:12:51,295
Ar gm
254
00:12:51,320 --> 00:12:56,375
Along this path, there are
cabin refuges.
255
00:12:56,400 --> 00:13:02,055
I think the refuges are intended
for winter walkers and people moving
256
00:13:02,080 --> 00:13:05,055
through the mountains with animals.
257
00:13:05,080 --> 00:13:08,655
Today, it'll be my place of shelter.
258
00:13:08,680 --> 00:13:12,455
And that's where I'm going to
meet Patrice.
259
00:13:12,480 --> 00:13:15,615
If I can find him.
260
00:13:15,640 --> 00:13:19,095
An author of more than 20 books on
the area,
261
00:13:19,120 --> 00:13:22,095
there are few people who know these
mountains better than
262
00:13:22,120 --> 00:13:25,135
Patrice Teisseire Dufour.
263
00:13:25,160 --> 00:13:27,295
Through the fog,
264
00:13:27,320 --> 00:13:29,735
the smudge of a building.
265
00:13:35,560 --> 00:13:38,655
It looks dry.
266
00:13:38,680 --> 00:13:39,895
So welcomed.
267
00:13:44,720 --> 00:13:46,215
Patrice, we're relieved to see you.
268
00:13:46,240 --> 00:13:47,535
I'm Michael.
269
00:13:47,560 --> 00:13:49,495
Hello! I'm glad to see you.
270
00:13:49,520 --> 00:13:51,055
It's great to see you.
271
00:13:51,080 --> 00:13:52,575
Are you starting a fire?
272
00:13:52,600 --> 00:13:53,815
Yes. I try.
273
00:13:53,840 --> 00:13:55,575
Oh, good. Good, good, good.
274
00:13:55,600 --> 00:13:57,175
I could do with that.
275
00:13:57,200 --> 00:13:59,095
OK.
276
00:13:59,120 --> 00:14:02,335
Patrice, you know the Pyrenees
pretty well?
277
00:14:02,360 --> 00:14:03,895
Yes.
278
00:14:03,920 --> 00:14:06,575
Do you use these cabins yourself
very much?
279
00:14:06,600 --> 00:14:08,735
Yes. Many times.
280
00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:10,215
Do you actually sleep here?
281
00:14:10,240 --> 00:14:13,695
Yes, during my hiking on Pyrenees.
282
00:14:13,720 --> 00:14:15,615
Where do you sleep? On the table?
283
00:14:15,640 --> 00:14:17,215
Yes. You don't.
284
00:14:17,240 --> 00:14:18,655
Yes. Wow.
285
00:14:18,680 --> 00:14:19,815
It's possible.
286
00:14:19,840 --> 00:14:21,415
It does look very comfortable.
287
00:14:21,440 --> 00:14:24,375
Yes, or under the table. With a...
288
00:14:24,400 --> 00:14:25,455
Sleeping bag?
289
00:14:25,480 --> 00:14:27,335
...yes, sleeping bag. Thank you.
290
00:14:27,360 --> 00:14:31,535
And there's always some wood and
some paper to make a fire, is there?
291
00:14:31,560 --> 00:14:33,375
Yes, yes. Fantastic.
292
00:14:33,400 --> 00:14:36,495
It's the rules on Pyrenees.
293
00:14:36,520 --> 00:14:41,135
You use the wood and after
your fire,
294
00:14:41,160 --> 00:14:46,575
you have to find another wood for
the next.
295
00:14:46,600 --> 00:14:48,135
Patrice, what do you like to do?
296
00:14:48,160 --> 00:14:50,015
You like to take a walk in
the mountains?
297
00:14:50,040 --> 00:14:51,695
I like to observe animals.
298
00:14:51,720 --> 00:14:57,255
It's possible to see a bear when you
are at 2,000 m.
299
00:14:59,400 --> 00:15:02,335
Today, it's unlikely I'll see
anything much,
300
00:15:02,360 --> 00:15:07,055
but Patrice assures me he's often
spotted brown bears here.
301
00:15:07,080 --> 00:15:10,175
Sadly, despite an official ban on
hunting them,
302
00:15:10,200 --> 00:15:12,535
the population is under threat.
303
00:15:12,560 --> 00:15:14,935
Are the shepherds or anybody else
killing the Bears?
304
00:15:14,960 --> 00:15:16,175
Yes.
305
00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:19,215
It's a really big problem.
306
00:15:19,240 --> 00:15:22,655
It's our French state
giving compensation.
307
00:15:22,680 --> 00:15:24,135
The sheep price.
308
00:15:24,160 --> 00:15:27,695
The French state compensates the
farmer for the lost sheep?
309
00:15:27,720 --> 00:15:28,815
Yes.
310
00:15:28,840 --> 00:15:31,535
Finally feeling warm and dry,
311
00:15:31,560 --> 00:15:33,735
I'm ready for a hearty
hiker's lunch.
312
00:15:33,760 --> 00:15:37,175
Let's have some food. I've
got some pate in here.
313
00:15:37,200 --> 00:15:39,815
OK. I have some bread.
314
00:15:39,840 --> 00:15:42,895
Patrice has also brought along
some Genepi.
315
00:15:42,920 --> 00:15:46,295
It's made with flowers found on
these mountains that are dried
316
00:15:46,320 --> 00:15:49,295
and steeped in a mix of sugar
and alcohol,
317
00:15:49,320 --> 00:15:51,335
and it's popular with climbers.
318
00:15:51,360 --> 00:15:54,935
It's flower named Artemisia.
319
00:15:54,960 --> 00:16:01,215
We find this flower at 2,500 m.
320
00:16:01,240 --> 00:16:02,855
Cheers. Chin.
321
00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:07,895
Oh, gosh. That's a lovely liqueur.
322
00:16:07,920 --> 00:16:09,095
Yes.
323
00:16:09,120 --> 00:16:12,255
And let's hope the pate is lovely
too. OK. Yes.
324
00:16:12,280 --> 00:16:13,615
You like that?
325
00:16:13,640 --> 00:16:15,015
Very good, yes. I ate it.
326
00:16:15,040 --> 00:16:16,175
Very nice.
327
00:16:16,200 --> 00:16:18,335
You came to the mountains when you
were a child?
328
00:16:18,360 --> 00:16:19,335
Yes.
329
00:16:19,360 --> 00:16:20,815
I began at...
330
00:16:22,200 --> 00:16:24,415
...five or six-years-old.
331
00:16:24,440 --> 00:16:25,575
Mm-hm.
332
00:16:25,600 --> 00:16:27,815
I lived in the city in Toulouse,
333
00:16:27,840 --> 00:16:32,735
but my parents liked very much the
mountains and I discovered the
334
00:16:32,760 --> 00:16:35,335
Pyrenees during my holidays.
335
00:16:35,360 --> 00:16:37,295
I discovered nature.
336
00:16:37,320 --> 00:16:39,495
It's very,
337
00:16:39,520 --> 00:16:44,495
I find I'm very lucky to recognise
animals, trees,
338
00:16:44,520 --> 00:16:47,935
flowers through meeting the people
of the mountains.
339
00:16:47,960 --> 00:16:50,055
And...
340
00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:53,535
It might be better if you said it
in French.
341
00:17:13,320 --> 00:17:17,575
So, the fact that people here have
this big space,
342
00:17:17,600 --> 00:17:20,455
means that they don't
like restraints.
343
00:17:20,480 --> 00:17:22,055
They don't like restrictions.
344
00:17:22,080 --> 00:17:23,855
They like liberty.
345
00:17:23,880 --> 00:17:26,895
And actually, you find down here
very few physical barriers or
346
00:17:26,920 --> 00:17:27,975
other restraints.
347
00:17:28,000 --> 00:17:29,735
Very, very interesting.
348
00:17:29,760 --> 00:17:34,295
It has been a realjoy, a real
privilege to share this cubby and
349
00:17:34,320 --> 00:17:37,335
to share this refuge with you.
350
00:17:37,360 --> 00:17:39,015
Thank you so much.
351
00:17:39,040 --> 00:17:40,495
Thank you very much, Michael.
352
00:17:40,520 --> 00:17:41,695
Mm.
353
00:17:51,040 --> 00:17:55,855
It was very interesting to hear
Patrice talk about the fact that the
354
00:17:55,880 --> 00:17:59,655
people here find so much space in
the Pyrenees
355
00:17:59,680 --> 00:18:02,895
and that spells to them liberty.
356
00:18:02,920 --> 00:18:06,815
You see people really are
conditioned by their geography.
357
00:18:06,840 --> 00:18:09,095
There's no point in
pretending otherwise.
358
00:18:23,640 --> 00:18:27,535
Yeah. A lovely green valley.
359
00:18:27,560 --> 00:18:29,095
And snowy peaks.
360
00:18:31,280 --> 00:18:34,215
What a relief when the rain lifts.
361
00:18:34,240 --> 00:18:38,255
Before, all this was shrouded
in a dense white fog.
362
00:18:38,280 --> 00:18:41,095
And look what beauty has
now emerged.
363
00:18:41,120 --> 00:18:45,135
And if I had my way, it would just
clear a little bit more
364
00:18:45,160 --> 00:18:50,255
so that those smoky outlines will
become wonderfully precise.
365
00:18:54,640 --> 00:18:57,055
The weather is finally on my side
366
00:18:57,080 --> 00:19:01,655
and the terrain too as I descend
from hills to the rolling farmland
367
00:19:01,680 --> 00:19:03,495
of the Barguillere Valley
368
00:19:03,520 --> 00:19:06,935
to arrive at the Abbaye Notre Dame
Du Pesquier.
369
00:19:09,920 --> 00:19:11,935
For the last 30 years it
has been home
370
00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:15,775
to Benedictine nuns
and novices who work the land
371
00:19:15,800 --> 00:19:16,815
and run a farm.
372
00:19:18,720 --> 00:19:22,295
Flush with the success of feeding
Magali and Christian's pigs,
373
00:19:22,320 --> 00:19:24,895
I am hoping to be useful here too.
374
00:19:29,040 --> 00:19:32,175
Maseur! Bonjour. Bonjour.
375
00:19:32,200 --> 00:19:33,415
Je m'appelle Michael.
376
00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:40,615
May I help a tiny bit?
377
00:19:45,160 --> 00:19:46,575
Just a tiny bit.
378
00:19:46,600 --> 00:19:47,655
Yes, OK.
379
00:19:47,680 --> 00:19:49,375
Comme ca?
380
00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:50,375
Parfait?
381
00:19:55,160 --> 00:19:56,335
Yes.
382
00:19:56,360 --> 00:19:58,455
So, Raphael, how long have you been
a nun?
383
00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:05,135
I had an aunt who was a Mother
Superior, ajesuit in Spain.
384
00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:09,375
Vous pense deja tres enfant?
385
00:20:09,400 --> 00:20:11,575
Did you think about it as a very
small child?
386
00:20:11,600 --> 00:20:13,455
I didn't. It was a surprise for me.
Was it?
387
00:20:18,920 --> 00:20:20,215
Ce pas si jeune.
388
00:20:20,240 --> 00:20:21,695
It's not that young, actually.
389
00:20:50,120 --> 00:20:52,495
Par exemple, votre vi quotidien?
390
00:20:52,520 --> 00:20:54,055
What is your daily life?
391
00:20:54,080 --> 00:20:56,455
Sept fois parjour.
392
00:20:56,480 --> 00:20:58,375
Tu fara glas en priere.
393
00:20:58,400 --> 00:21:00,015
Sept fois? Sept fois.
394
00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:02,495
Seven times a clay, they will be
in prayer.
395
00:21:06,080 --> 00:21:07,535
H e u re vo us reve I llez?
396
00:21:07,560 --> 00:21:09,455
What time do you get up in
the morning?
397
00:21:13,160 --> 00:21:14,255
Et priez?
398
00:21:19,200 --> 00:21:20,615
'And then work. |.
399
00:21:22,400 --> 00:21:26,135
Sister Raphael looks after the
Abbey's dairy cows.
400
00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:30,175
Following Saint Benedict's
insistence on self-sufficiency,
401
00:21:30,200 --> 00:21:34,455
the nuns live on what they grow
and produce within the community.
402
00:21:39,160 --> 00:21:40,415
Paradise.
403
00:21:40,440 --> 00:21:42,895
It is a paradise. It is a paradise.
404
00:21:42,920 --> 00:21:45,015
Is this context important for
the abbey?
405
00:22:20,440 --> 00:22:23,215
My aunt, the Mother Superior, would
not be happy with me.
406
00:22:23,240 --> 00:22:24,495
It's perfectly true.
407
00:22:24,520 --> 00:22:25,935
But I will pray for you.
408
00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:27,415
Merck Merck.
409
00:22:29,400 --> 00:22:32,495
I fear I'm a disappointment to
the sister,
410
00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:36,335
but the community has kindly opened
its doors to me, none the less.
411
00:22:36,360 --> 00:22:40,335
And I'm keen to understand more
about their path through life.
412
00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:46,455
What a scene of absolute quiet
and concentration.
413
00:22:48,720 --> 00:22:49,975
Bonjour, Maseur.
414
00:22:50,000 --> 00:22:51,175
Je m'appelle Michael.
415
00:22:51,200 --> 00:22:53,015
Quesque vous fait, s'il vous plait?
416
00:22:53,040 --> 00:22:54,015
What are you doing?
417
00:22:56,960 --> 00:22:58,655
Where did the book come from?
418
00:23:04,680 --> 00:23:05,975
It's very charming.
419
00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:09,295
This was brought by a client.
420
00:23:09,320 --> 00:23:11,895
It's passed through three
generations, at least.
421
00:23:15,040 --> 00:23:18,815
And the first thing she does now is
to straighten out the pages and
422
00:23:18,840 --> 00:23:20,935
repair the holes with a little bit
of tape.
423
00:23:24,120 --> 00:23:25,175
Bonjour, Maseur.
424
00:24:12,960 --> 00:24:15,255
As the light begins to fade,
425
00:24:15,280 --> 00:24:19,775
the Abbey's nuns are called to the
evening prayer known as Vespers.
426
00:24:24,560 --> 00:24:26,855
CHANTING
427
00:24:45,640 --> 00:24:51,295
What a beautiful, uplifting
and thoroughly spiritual that was.
428
00:24:51,320 --> 00:24:53,775
A privilege to witness.
429
00:24:53,800 --> 00:24:58,375
These sisters devote themselves
to prayer,
430
00:24:58,400 --> 00:25:00,015
to work,
431
00:25:00,040 --> 00:25:02,095
to contemplation.
432
00:25:02,120 --> 00:25:07,015
And the love of God clearly guides
them through their lives.
433
00:25:12,880 --> 00:25:18,935
Well, a chill has returned to the
air and the rain is back too.
434
00:25:18,960 --> 00:25:23,095
And twilight is settling on the
abbey and its view of the Pyrenees.
435
00:25:25,400 --> 00:25:27,415
What is happiness in life?
436
00:25:27,440 --> 00:25:31,295
Today, I've met some very different
people, living very different lives
437
00:25:31,320 --> 00:25:34,735
from each other and from me.
438
00:25:34,760 --> 00:25:39,295
What has not been in doubt is that
they are living very happily.
439
00:25:57,240 --> 00:25:58,895
What a view.
440
00:25:58,920 --> 00:26:00,455
Extraordinary.
441
00:26:00,480 --> 00:26:03,895
It's not often that I'd say that I'm
at one with nature,
442
00:26:03,920 --> 00:26:07,615
but there is something very special
about being here.
443
00:26:07,640 --> 00:26:11,855
And at a point in life where I look
back on much that has been,
444
00:26:11,880 --> 00:26:16,055
yet still look forward to an
adventurous journey ahead.
445
00:26:16,080 --> 00:26:18,255
Ugh, it's a vigorous climb.
446
00:26:18,280 --> 00:26:22,015
Over three clays, I'm walking
stretches of the French Pyrenees.
447
00:26:22,040 --> 00:26:24,455
And after yesterday's rain and mist,
448
00:26:24,480 --> 00:26:27,095
today looks a great deal better.
449
00:26:27,120 --> 00:26:31,135
The walker is always beset by one
problem or another.
450
00:26:31,160 --> 00:26:35,935
So, I was soaked to the skin and
my clothes were heavy with rain.
451
00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:37,615
That was a problem.
452
00:26:37,640 --> 00:26:39,575
Right now, I'm overdressed
453
00:26:39,600 --> 00:26:42,775
and I'm very hot
454
00:26:42,800 --> 00:26:44,575
and bothered.
455
00:26:49,160 --> 00:26:52,535
Thankfully, I'm not too far from my
next rendezvous,
456
00:26:52,560 --> 00:26:55,335
where I'm swapping my two legs
for four.
457
00:26:57,000 --> 00:27:01,295
Chloe Alazard is helping to protect
a native breed of horse
458
00:27:01,320 --> 00:27:04,735
and assures me that the very best
way to enjoy the mountains
459
00:27:04,760 --> 00:27:06,175
is in the saddle.
460
00:27:07,240 --> 00:27:09,215
I remain to be convinced.
461
00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:12,415
Bonjour, Chloe.
462
00:27:12,440 --> 00:27:13,855
Hello, Michael.
463
00:27:13,880 --> 00:27:16,175
Is it all right to touch the horse?
Yes, sure.
464
00:27:16,200 --> 00:27:18,495
But this horse is called Cheval
de Merens.
465
00:27:18,520 --> 00:27:21,255
It's really ancient breed.
466
00:27:21,280 --> 00:27:23,975
'And they are native from Ariege.|.
467
00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:28,615
From May to October, they are in
the mountain.
468
00:27:28,640 --> 00:27:32,375
And they are in a place where there
is a lot of really good grass,
469
00:27:32,400 --> 00:27:34,655
they are free.
470
00:27:34,680 --> 00:27:37,775
Ancl they wear the bells just like
sheep so they can be found?
471
00:27:37,800 --> 00:27:39,055
Yeah, exactly.
472
00:27:40,600 --> 00:27:44,615
Transhumance, the tradition of
moving sheep, cattle and horses
473
00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:47,215
up to the high grass for the summer,
474
00:27:47,240 --> 00:27:51,775
has been practised here since the
Middle Ages.
475
00:27:51,800 --> 00:27:53,935
The fact he grew up in
the mountain,
476
00:27:53,960 --> 00:27:56,175
it gives him a lot of strength
477
00:27:56,200 --> 00:28:00,095
and the ability to be able to face
bad conditions.
478
00:28:00,120 --> 00:28:03,695
These horses can react to something
but really quickly.
479
00:28:03,720 --> 00:28:06,415
So, if they have an incident,
they quickly calm down.
480
00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:07,575
Yeah.
481
00:28:07,600 --> 00:28:08,935
What a very nice horse.
482
00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:12,455
There are about 1,500 horses here,
483
00:28:12,480 --> 00:28:15,615
but the arrival of modern farming
methods meant that they were no
484
00:28:15,640 --> 00:28:19,175
longer needed in the mountains to
pull machinery
485
00:28:19,200 --> 00:28:21,375
and were very much under threat.
486
00:28:21,400 --> 00:28:23,575
At one time, in the middle of
the century,
487
00:28:23,600 --> 00:28:26,735
there was maybe 29 or 30 horses.
488
00:28:26,760 --> 00:28:28,575
Wow, you were almost extinct.
489
00:28:28,600 --> 00:28:30,535
Do you hear that? Almost extinct.
490
00:28:34,360 --> 00:28:37,055
OK, maybe you will help me, Michael?
491
00:28:37,080 --> 00:28:40,295
Because the seat is a little
bit heavy.
492
00:28:44,560 --> 00:28:45,535
Perfect.
493
00:28:47,560 --> 00:28:49,495
Bring the tail through? Yeah.
494
00:28:52,080 --> 00:28:54,055
Very nice. Yeah.
495
00:28:54,080 --> 00:28:57,455
I'm always a bit nervous about going
on a horse.
496
00:28:57,480 --> 00:29:00,975
I have ridden very rarely.
497
00:29:01,000 --> 00:29:03,895
But this fellow seems like about
the calmest and nicest horse that
498
00:29:03,920 --> 00:29:05,535
you could possibly try it with.
499
00:29:08,720 --> 00:29:10,135
Allez-y.
500
00:29:18,440 --> 00:29:19,775
Allez-y.
501
00:29:25,240 --> 00:29:28,455
If there is a chance to eat
something green.
502
00:29:30,240 --> 00:29:31,255
Alle.
503
00:29:31,280 --> 00:29:32,735
Allez-y.
504
00:29:37,840 --> 00:29:39,495
I'm really enjoying this.
505
00:29:39,520 --> 00:29:42,855
The countryside is so pretty in
the sunshine.
506
00:29:42,880 --> 00:29:45,215
Got all the colours of spring
507
00:29:45,240 --> 00:29:48,895
and the light dusting of snow from
last night.
508
00:29:48,920 --> 00:29:53,655
And this is the perfect animal for a
novice like me.
509
00:29:53,680 --> 00:29:55,015
So calm.
510
00:29:56,160 --> 00:29:59,375
I feel like a Pyrenean cowboy here.
511
00:30:00,680 --> 00:30:03,175
It looks like you have
clone it all your life.
512
00:30:03,200 --> 00:30:04,615
That's very sweet of you.
513
00:30:04,640 --> 00:30:06,255
You look so comfortable.
514
00:30:07,360 --> 00:30:09,295
Everything in this scene
is Pyrenean.
515
00:30:09,320 --> 00:30:11,655
The landscape, the horse,
516
00:30:11,680 --> 00:30:12,735
the dog...
517
00:30:13,920 --> 00:30:15,495
Ah, but not the rider.
518
00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:19,295
Do you feel OK?
It's perfect, thank you. Perfect.
519
00:30:20,600 --> 00:30:23,575
Sadly, it's
time to leave Chloe behind
520
00:30:23,600 --> 00:30:26,175
and carry on my journey
under my own steam.
521
00:30:26,200 --> 00:30:27,175
Phew!
522
00:30:28,440 --> 00:30:30,055
After miles of greenery,
523
00:30:30,080 --> 00:30:33,935
my route is taking me into
the region's capital, Foix,
524
00:30:33,960 --> 00:30:36,695
and I have to say,
I'm rather looking forward
525
00:30:36,720 --> 00:30:40,335
to a brief interlude
of urban hustle and bustle.
526
00:30:42,600 --> 00:30:44,495
What a glorious sight.
527
00:30:44,520 --> 00:30:48,815
Looking down on Foix reminds me why
I love small French towns so much.
528
00:30:48,840 --> 00:30:51,975
Their architecture,
the colours, the shutters.
529
00:30:52,000 --> 00:30:54,575
The good food, the history.
530
00:30:54,600 --> 00:30:58,135
And Foix has a happy
little pun in French,
531
00:30:58,160 --> 00:31:01,095
because Foix can mean time
or occasion,
532
00:31:01,120 --> 00:31:05,055
so "il etait une fois"
means "once upon a time".
533
00:31:05,080 --> 00:31:08,535
What better name
for an historic town?
534
00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:16,215
Its magnificent castle
dominates the skyline.
535
00:31:16,240 --> 00:31:20,055
For 300 years,
it was home to a line of nobleman,
536
00:31:20,080 --> 00:31:23,535
who ruled over this
fiercely independent region.
537
00:31:23,560 --> 00:31:28,615
Towards the end of the 13th century,
when the Count of Foix was resisting
538
00:31:28,640 --> 00:31:32,215
being absorbed into France,
into the French monarchy,
539
00:31:32,240 --> 00:31:34,495
the French king, Philip the Bold,
540
00:31:34,520 --> 00:31:38,295
came here himself and
eventually defeated the Count.
541
00:31:40,960 --> 00:31:43,295
As lunchtime approaches, it is
542
00:31:43,320 --> 00:31:46,615
the perfect place for the
weary walker to take a break.
543
00:31:46,640 --> 00:31:49,815
And, as luck would have it,
I've arrived on market clay.
544
00:31:51,200 --> 00:31:53,775
Although the market is open
to the four winds,
545
00:31:53,800 --> 00:31:56,695
there's an overpowering smell
of cheese,
546
00:31:56,720 --> 00:31:59,935
and we are in asparagus season.
547
00:31:59,960 --> 00:32:01,615
Look at those things.
548
00:32:03,800 --> 00:32:04,975
Bonjour.
549
00:32:18,800 --> 00:32:19,895
Merck.
550
00:32:23,320 --> 00:32:24,935
Cow's cheese. Local cheese.
551
00:32:28,440 --> 00:32:29,415
Mm!
552
00:32:30,720 --> 00:32:31,855
Tres bon. Tres bon.
553
00:32:38,840 --> 00:32:39,975
Merci!
554
00:32:44,880 --> 00:32:47,015
In the early 13th century,
555
00:32:47,040 --> 00:32:49,535
this town in the Ariege region
556
00:32:49,560 --> 00:32:52,695
became the setting for
a dark chapter in French history.
557
00:32:52,720 --> 00:32:56,015
A Christian
sect, known as the Cathars,
558
00:32:56,040 --> 00:32:59,535
had flourished here, but the
Roman Catholic church
559
00:32:59,560 --> 00:33:02,015
thought that they offered
an heretical challenge
560
00:33:02,040 --> 00:33:03,775
to its authority.
561
00:33:03,800 --> 00:33:05,535
Heresy...
562
00:33:06,920 --> 00:33:09,895
...is a set of beliefs
so obnoxious to you
563
00:33:09,920 --> 00:33:13,015
that you have to close down
the people who believe it.
564
00:33:13,040 --> 00:33:17,215
In the Middle Ages,
that meant killing them off.
565
00:33:17,240 --> 00:33:21,055
In 1209, a bloody campaign unfolded,
566
00:33:21,080 --> 00:33:25,255
as Pope Innocent Ill
ordered a war against the Cathars
567
00:33:25,280 --> 00:33:27,895
to crush their nonconformity.
568
00:33:27,920 --> 00:33:30,095
In this medieval genocide,
569
00:33:30,120 --> 00:33:33,015
many thousands are said
to have been massacred.
570
00:33:36,560 --> 00:33:39,575
Somewhere up ahead
is a series of caves.
571
00:33:41,080 --> 00:33:43,975
They are now home
to vultures and eagles,
572
00:33:44,000 --> 00:33:45,495
but 800 years ago,
573
00:33:45,520 --> 00:33:49,695
they were used by the Cathars
as a place of prayer and refuge.
574
00:33:52,560 --> 00:33:57,775
This windy little path is leading
me up the side of a sheer rock face.
575
00:33:59,400 --> 00:34:00,495
Huh!
576
00:34:10,880 --> 00:34:15,135
These huge structures
looking like bed springs,
577
00:34:15,160 --> 00:34:18,415
protect the valley
from falling rock.
578
00:34:19,800 --> 00:34:21,735
But what protects the walker?
579
00:34:23,200 --> 00:34:24,495
And beyond the wires...
580
00:34:25,840 --> 00:34:27,335
...a dark opening.
581
00:34:31,560 --> 00:34:34,535
The cave is absolutely immense.
582
00:34:34,560 --> 00:34:36,735
Catherine? Hello?
583
00:34:36,760 --> 00:34:38,095
There you are.
584
00:34:38,120 --> 00:34:40,815
Hi, Michael. It is good to see you.
585
00:34:40,840 --> 00:34:42,655
'And to see you here.|.
586
00:34:44,280 --> 00:34:46,575
Author and historian
Catherine de Courcy
587
00:34:46,600 --> 00:34:49,775
came here to research her novel
about the Cathar people.
588
00:34:51,080 --> 00:34:54,455
This extraordinary cave, with which
you have a long history, I think.
589
00:34:54,480 --> 00:34:56,335
What did the Cathars believe?
590
00:34:56,360 --> 00:34:59,255
Well, they were Christians
who devoted their lives
591
00:34:59,280 --> 00:35:00,655
so completely to prayer,
592
00:35:00,680 --> 00:35:04,215
but we do know that they spent
time in caves in deep meditation.
593
00:35:04,240 --> 00:35:07,255
They wouldn't eat meat, they didn't
have intimate relationships.
594
00:35:07,280 --> 00:35:09,975
They had no churches,
they had no statues.
595
00:35:10,000 --> 00:35:11,295
When they were young,
596
00:35:11,320 --> 00:35:13,535
they were helped by a holy person
to find a stone,
597
00:35:13,560 --> 00:35:17,815
and on that stone they would
etch an image of their own soul
598
00:35:17,840 --> 00:35:19,495
over their lifetime.
599
00:35:19,520 --> 00:35:22,055
It was their connection
with holy God,
600
00:35:22,080 --> 00:35:24,095
with the heavens, with the spirit.
601
00:35:24,120 --> 00:35:27,975
And why did the Catholic church
of Rome believe it to be heresy?
602
00:35:28,000 --> 00:35:30,495
Rome had for a couple of centuries
been consolidating
603
00:35:30,520 --> 00:35:32,175
its path throughout Western Europe.
604
00:35:32,200 --> 00:35:34,215
In the 12th century,
605
00:35:34,240 --> 00:35:37,975
it had moved into this area,
and was trying to persuade
606
00:35:38,000 --> 00:35:42,695
the local people to accept
the rule of Rome
607
00:35:42,720 --> 00:35:44,215
in their spiritual lives.
608
00:35:46,360 --> 00:35:50,975
Catherine's studies led her to the
nearby castle of Montsegur
609
00:35:51,000 --> 00:35:56,455
where in 1244, Cathars had taken
shelter from the papal Crusaders.
610
00:35:57,880 --> 00:36:01,135
Of this 400 or so people who were
still living on the mountain
611
00:36:01,160 --> 00:36:03,295
after a ten month siege,
612
00:36:03,320 --> 00:36:07,535
221 preferred to die in a fire,
613
00:36:07,560 --> 00:36:12,895
rather than to submit to the control
of Rome in their spiritual lives.
614
00:36:12,920 --> 00:36:14,695
'And this intrigued me.|.
615
00:36:14,720 --> 00:36:17,535
What I wanted to do was to see
why they were so determined to hold
616
00:36:17,560 --> 00:36:21,815
on to what they had, despite the
threats that they were faced with.
617
00:36:21,840 --> 00:36:25,055
To understand
the Cathars' spiritualjourney,
618
00:36:25,080 --> 00:36:29,295
Catherine spent more than two clays
alone in this cave,
619
00:36:29,320 --> 00:36:32,775
achieving
her own meditative inspiration.
620
00:36:32,800 --> 00:36:36,735
She has offered to give me
an insight into that experience.
621
00:36:38,840 --> 00:36:40,495
It gets pretty murky, doesn't it?
622
00:36:40,520 --> 00:36:43,415
It does. I have a torch here
that I can turn on.
623
00:36:43,440 --> 00:36:46,295
You get a sense of this cave.
624
00:36:49,760 --> 00:36:53,735
This is the outer part of the cave.
Do we go through there?
625
00:36:53,760 --> 00:36:56,655
Through here, yes. We'lljust
go on through to the back.
626
00:36:56,680 --> 00:36:58,775
Shall I lead the way? Yes.
627
00:37:00,000 --> 00:37:01,055
Please.
628
00:37:09,880 --> 00:37:14,055
Ancl this is where I spent 60 hours.
My goodness.
629
00:37:28,800 --> 00:37:33,815
So, Catherine. We have
arrived in your cave. Welcome.
630
00:37:35,240 --> 00:37:39,455
As I near the end of this stretch
of my walk, my spiritual quest
631
00:37:39,480 --> 00:37:43,135
has brought me to the
back of a very dark mountain cave.
632
00:37:43,160 --> 00:37:45,215
I set myself up there in the corner.
633
00:37:45,240 --> 00:37:49,095
I had warm clothes because,
you can feel it, it is cold in here.
634
00:37:49,120 --> 00:37:53,335
I had cushions, and I had food,
and I settled in.
635
00:37:53,360 --> 00:37:56,095
Perhaps what I suggest we do is we
just turn off the lights for a few
636
00:37:56,120 --> 00:37:59,295
seconds, just to give you a sense
of what it is like in the dark.
637
00:38:00,880 --> 00:38:03,455
Author Catherine de Courcy
spent two clays
638
00:38:03,480 --> 00:38:06,495
and two nights in this cavern
as part of her research
639
00:38:06,520 --> 00:38:09,255
into a religious group
called the Cathars,
640
00:38:09,280 --> 00:38:11,735
who were present here
800 years ago.
641
00:38:13,960 --> 00:38:17,175
It's an extraordinary feeling,
isn't it? Almost total darkness.
642
00:38:18,600 --> 00:38:21,095
Absolutely cut off
from the outside world.
643
00:38:21,120 --> 00:38:24,455
And you were here hour after hour
with your own thoughts.
644
00:38:24,480 --> 00:38:26,135
Do you want to light a candle?
645
00:38:29,080 --> 00:38:30,415
Lovely.
646
00:38:30,440 --> 00:38:32,255
Well, I can see you now.
647
00:38:33,640 --> 00:38:36,935
It really is total
darkness in here, isn't it?
648
00:38:36,960 --> 00:38:40,335
Pitch dark. But strangely,
the time...
649
00:38:41,680 --> 00:38:42,935
...passed.
650
00:38:42,960 --> 00:38:45,575
I can't even say it flew,
it just passed.
651
00:38:45,600 --> 00:38:47,415
It was like suspended.
652
00:38:47,440 --> 00:38:51,415
The Cathars would go into deep
meditation for months on end,
653
00:38:51,440 --> 00:38:55,735
and so I thought I would
spend 60 hours,
654
00:38:55,760 --> 00:38:58,615
just to get that sense
of who they were.
655
00:38:58,640 --> 00:39:00,815
What was the most important
moment for you?
656
00:39:00,840 --> 00:39:04,855
It was probably about midway
through the time I was here.
657
00:39:04,880 --> 00:39:06,335
And...
658
00:39:06,360 --> 00:39:07,935
...| was drifting.
659
00:39:07,960 --> 00:39:11,455
I might have been half asleep.
I don't really know.
660
00:39:11,480 --> 00:39:16,415
I began to get
this sense of total peace.
661
00:39:16,440 --> 00:39:19,935
It just felt quite
extraordinarily beautiful,
662
00:39:19,960 --> 00:39:25,295
and that, to me, was the moment
where I felt this is...
663
00:39:25,320 --> 00:39:27,495
This is what they knew.
664
00:39:27,520 --> 00:39:32,175
And this is what Rome
was going to destroy.
665
00:39:32,200 --> 00:39:34,375
I'm very glad that you
achieved that.
666
00:39:34,400 --> 00:39:37,135
And I'm struck that most people
would think that religion
667
00:39:37,160 --> 00:39:38,775
and church were the same thing.
668
00:39:38,800 --> 00:39:41,375
But religion doesn't have
to have churches,
669
00:39:41,400 --> 00:39:43,815
and so here I am,
sitting in a cave with you...
670
00:39:44,920 --> 00:39:48,895
"learning a new perspective
on religion,
671
00:39:48,920 --> 00:39:52,935
thanks to the views of people
who were here in the Middle Ages.
672
00:39:52,960 --> 00:39:54,175
Yeah.
673
00:40:00,160 --> 00:40:03,615
Well, I have remained behind in the
cave now Catherine has gone,
674
00:40:03,640 --> 00:40:06,855
just to see how
I feel about solitude.
675
00:40:10,160 --> 00:40:13,295
For some reason, the darkness
of this cave is not scary.
676
00:40:15,200 --> 00:40:16,415
It is very peaceful.
677
00:40:19,960 --> 00:40:21,335
But it's not for me.
678
00:40:24,200 --> 00:40:25,335
Daylight again.
679
00:40:26,600 --> 00:40:27,975
To me, it is a relief,
680
00:40:28,000 --> 00:40:33,215
and what a paradox that you go into
a dark cave to seek enlightenment.
681
00:40:33,240 --> 00:40:37,135
I don't feel as if I have achieved
a personal enlightenment
682
00:40:37,160 --> 00:40:40,975
but I have been educated
by Catherine's experiences,
683
00:40:41,000 --> 00:40:44,095
and by reflections on the Cathars.
684
00:40:49,600 --> 00:40:53,255
It seems fitting to end my route
on the Cathar way,
685
00:40:53,280 --> 00:40:55,815
stretching 160 miles eastwards,
686
00:40:55,840 --> 00:40:59,655
tracing the paths walked by the
Cathars in medievaltimes.
687
00:41:04,680 --> 00:41:07,855
High above the tiny village
of Roquefixade
688
00:41:07,880 --> 00:41:11,775
stands the ruin of one of nine
castles along the trail.
689
00:41:11,800 --> 00:41:15,975
This place once served as a haven
for those under attack,
690
00:41:16,000 --> 00:41:18,295
and it's my final destination.
691
00:41:20,680 --> 00:41:24,015
That is, unless Mother Nature
stands in my way.
692
00:41:25,520 --> 00:41:28,535
First of April,
but this is no joke.
693
00:41:28,560 --> 00:41:30,255
A snow storm.
694
00:41:32,400 --> 00:41:36,015
On this walk, the skies have
thrown everything at me now.
695
00:41:37,400 --> 00:41:41,015
The snow is going upwards,
which is unusualto me.
696
00:41:43,680 --> 00:41:45,815
I thought the rain was bad enough.
697
00:41:48,720 --> 00:41:51,295
Lungs burning in the icy air.
698
00:41:51,320 --> 00:41:54,655
Far above me, my destination.
699
00:41:54,680 --> 00:41:58,015
The castle of Roquefixade.
700
00:42:05,000 --> 00:42:07,015
What must this climb
have been like
701
00:42:07,040 --> 00:42:09,655
for the desperate
Cathar men and women,
702
00:42:09,680 --> 00:42:11,815
being hunted down for their faith?
703
00:42:13,320 --> 00:42:14,695
The higher I go,
704
00:42:14,720 --> 00:42:18,335
the more heavily
the snow is falling.
705
00:42:18,360 --> 00:42:19,615
This is really tough.
706
00:42:20,840 --> 00:42:23,735
But the castle is in view now,
looking as I feel.
707
00:42:23,760 --> 00:42:25,415
A bit ruined.
708
00:42:28,960 --> 00:42:31,175
Ah, this is a good, flat bit here.
709
00:42:31,200 --> 00:42:32,775
Make some progress.
710
00:42:38,280 --> 00:42:41,175
WIND HOWLS
711
00:42:43,280 --> 00:42:44,535
Ahh!
712
00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:48,415
HE LAUGHS
713
00:42:48,440 --> 00:42:49,575
I made it!
714
00:42:50,800 --> 00:42:52,375
What drama.
715
00:42:52,400 --> 00:42:55,895
The blizzard swirling
around the ancient battlements.
716
00:42:55,920 --> 00:42:58,015
How completely Gothic.
717
00:43:01,520 --> 00:43:07,575
And, as quickly as it descended,
the wild snowstorm lifts,
718
00:43:07,600 --> 00:43:11,815
and I'm rewarded for my efforts
with a magnificent view.
719
00:43:11,840 --> 00:43:15,375
I've been walking
in an area of the Pyrenees
720
00:43:15,400 --> 00:43:19,095
where geography and history
have created a
721
00:43:19,120 --> 00:43:22,615
self-sufficient
and independent-minded people.
722
00:43:24,120 --> 00:43:25,895
In these wide open spaces,
723
00:43:25,920 --> 00:43:28,455
they didn't want to accept
restrictions,
724
00:43:28,480 --> 00:43:32,655
and their ancestors battled
popes and French kings
725
00:43:32,680 --> 00:43:34,895
for the right to be autonomous.
726
00:43:36,840 --> 00:43:40,735
And, the people I've met have
given me much to think about
727
00:43:40,760 --> 00:43:43,335
with their very
different lifestyles.
728
00:43:43,360 --> 00:43:47,255
Ancl I'm not going to follow
anything in their choices.
729
00:43:47,280 --> 00:43:49,615
But it has impressed upon me
730
00:43:49,640 --> 00:43:53,935
how free is the human spirit
to choose its own way.
731
00:43:53,960 --> 00:43:56,215
And that is inspiring.
732
00:44:02,320 --> 00:44:06,055
Next time in the Catalonian
Pyrenees, I am on a
733
00:44:06,080 --> 00:44:10,295
deeply personal quest, as I explore
my father's route to freedom.
734
00:44:10,320 --> 00:44:13,175
Can you imagine hundreds of people
walking up here?
735
00:44:13,200 --> 00:44:16,655
I hope he might think
that my coming is a tribute to him.
736
00:44:16,680 --> 00:44:19,135
I discover
a love of the landscape...
737
00:44:19,160 --> 00:44:22,295
What was it that you
missed about this place?
738
00:44:22,320 --> 00:44:23,495
The jOY-
739
00:44:23,520 --> 00:44:26,575
...and celebrate on
the Mediterranean coast.
740
00:44:26,600 --> 00:44:28,215
Down to the sea.
741
00:44:28,240 --> 00:44:31,015
That is the finishing line!
742
00:44:54,040 --> 00:44:56,815
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