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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:12,208 --> 00:00:13,666 Endless rays. 2 00:00:14,541 --> 00:00:16,125 Endless waves. 3 00:00:19,666 --> 00:00:23,333 I forget who I was before I first got up on my board. 4 00:00:24,583 --> 00:00:27,416 That person washed away in the tide. 5 00:00:30,041 --> 00:00:33,250 When you're out on the surf, you're a blank slate, 6 00:00:34,041 --> 00:00:37,291 free to let the waves carry you into what's next. 7 00:00:37,958 --> 00:00:39,875 Free to be your perfect self. 8 00:00:42,125 --> 00:00:44,291 To find that perfect wave. 9 00:00:45,833 --> 00:00:49,375 Enveloped by the waters, held by them. 10 00:00:49,458 --> 00:00:50,833 That's home to me. 11 00:00:51,625 --> 00:00:54,250 When you come out the other side of a break, 12 00:00:54,333 --> 00:00:55,916 you're a whole new person. 13 00:00:56,750 --> 00:00:58,208 You're a whole new you. 14 00:01:04,333 --> 00:01:06,916 Coconuts seem sweeter in the sun. 15 00:01:09,666 --> 00:01:10,583 Mahalo. 16 00:01:53,500 --> 00:01:57,458 Humans have been surfing Kapali since the Middle Ages. 17 00:01:59,166 --> 00:02:02,666 Baba Lou Anne, Dottie, CP and I rode in last week. 18 00:02:04,125 --> 00:02:08,458 In Kapali, the waves are as big as our personalities. 19 00:02:09,208 --> 00:02:13,250 The exposed reef gives it that consistent, clean point break. 20 00:02:16,125 --> 00:02:17,375 Real nice. 21 00:02:19,000 --> 00:02:21,208 Some consider surfing a sport, 22 00:02:21,291 --> 00:02:24,833 but the way Baba Lou Anne moves out there, it's closer to art. 23 00:02:25,500 --> 00:02:28,083 She's really a fantastic surfer. 24 00:02:28,166 --> 00:02:31,750 She can ride with either foot forward. Goofy and regular. 25 00:02:31,833 --> 00:02:34,125 Few surfers can do that. 26 00:02:34,208 --> 00:02:38,000 Fewer still can do it right in the middle of a pull-out in midair. 27 00:02:38,083 --> 00:02:41,041 Ladies and gentlemen, Baba Lou Anne. 28 00:02:46,916 --> 00:02:51,208 Dottie hasn't been surfing long, but she really has a ball. 29 00:02:51,291 --> 00:02:53,291 She's also recently divorced. 30 00:02:53,375 --> 00:02:54,958 After coming home from work 31 00:02:55,041 --> 00:02:58,875 and finding her husband in bed with a dental hygienist, 32 00:02:58,958 --> 00:03:00,916 she now makes the sea her lover. 33 00:03:01,000 --> 00:03:05,458 Riding waves with reckless abandon on a board nicknamed "Suzie." 34 00:03:06,625 --> 00:03:09,041 Say hello to the cameras, Dottie. 35 00:03:11,000 --> 00:03:16,333 CP, short for Corinthia Panatopoulos, is an excellent surfer. 36 00:03:16,416 --> 00:03:19,541 She's blind in one eye, no depth perception, 37 00:03:19,625 --> 00:03:22,041 but that doesn't seem to slow her down. 38 00:03:22,125 --> 00:03:25,375 You don't need two eyes to see how good she is. 39 00:03:25,458 --> 00:03:26,958 Look at her go. 40 00:03:27,708 --> 00:03:31,041 When she's not on her board taming wicked waves, 41 00:03:31,125 --> 00:03:32,875 CP is writing a book, 42 00:03:34,000 --> 00:03:39,916 an adventure novel about four lady surfers who solve mysteries in their spare time. 43 00:03:40,666 --> 00:03:44,625 Not sure when she'll finish it, but I like how one starts. 44 00:03:44,708 --> 00:03:49,333 Opera singer found in the shallows with a throwing star in her back. 45 00:03:49,416 --> 00:03:51,708 Good beach read, that's for sure. 46 00:03:53,750 --> 00:03:56,791 We gather here at the shores of Kapali, 47 00:03:56,875 --> 00:04:01,083 20 kilometers from the strawberry-shaped islands of Kono 48 00:04:01,166 --> 00:04:03,458 for a week of sun and fun. 49 00:04:03,541 --> 00:04:07,541 Afterward, we plan to break off and head our own separate ways. 50 00:04:08,208 --> 00:04:11,416 Baba Lou Anne is heading out to Seattle. 51 00:04:11,500 --> 00:04:14,625 Not to surf the choppy waves of Alki Point, 52 00:04:14,708 --> 00:04:17,125 but to base jump off the Space Needle. 53 00:04:18,625 --> 00:04:21,916 Dottie and her board, Suzie, are headed to Japan. 54 00:04:22,875 --> 00:04:25,583 CP is leaving to dedicate more time 55 00:04:25,666 --> 00:04:28,958 to cooking up clever twists for her murder mysteries. 56 00:04:30,083 --> 00:04:34,333 As for me, I'm gonna chase that sun around the world, 57 00:04:34,833 --> 00:04:38,916 in search of the biggest waves, the friendliest people, 58 00:04:39,833 --> 00:04:43,250 all the while discovering myself along the way, 59 00:04:44,083 --> 00:04:47,250 as I jump into the waters surfboard-first. 60 00:04:47,958 --> 00:04:49,333 All heart and soul, 61 00:04:50,041 --> 00:04:53,041 just my board and a heavy coat of wax. 62 00:04:57,416 --> 00:04:58,583 Righteous. 63 00:05:04,958 --> 00:05:08,333 Packing for this kind of journey is extremely important. 64 00:05:08,416 --> 00:05:11,333 You need to stay smart and pack with a purpose. 65 00:05:11,416 --> 00:05:15,000 And for me, that means surfboard wax, 66 00:05:15,083 --> 00:05:18,083 bathing suit, one chrysanthemum, 67 00:05:18,166 --> 00:05:21,916 three towels, my lucky puka shell necklace, 68 00:05:22,000 --> 00:05:24,750 sunscreen, SPF 150, 69 00:05:24,833 --> 00:05:29,208 two disposable cameras, an English-to-Maori phrasebook, 70 00:05:29,291 --> 00:05:33,666 trashy beach read, The Swells of Love by Alice T. Townsend, 71 00:05:33,750 --> 00:05:37,125 photograph of surf legend Kathy Kohner-Zuckerman, 72 00:05:37,208 --> 00:05:39,583 incense sticks, seven, 73 00:05:39,666 --> 00:05:41,833 flare gun, sunglasses, 74 00:05:41,916 --> 00:05:44,750 mysterious totem, machete. 75 00:05:46,000 --> 00:05:50,875 And the willingness to chuck it all away and accept where life takes you. 76 00:05:52,875 --> 00:05:56,416 I'm sorry, ma'am. Your suitcase appears to be in London. 77 00:06:05,500 --> 00:06:09,208 There's nothing like a cool breeze after a three-hour flight. 78 00:06:09,291 --> 00:06:13,958 None cooler than from the pristine waters of the Sea of Cortez. 79 00:06:14,041 --> 00:06:18,541 I start my search for the perfect wave here at Cabo San Lucas. 80 00:06:19,666 --> 00:06:24,125 Once a sleepy town visited only by nomad surfers, 81 00:06:24,208 --> 00:06:28,708 Cabo San Lucas has become a must-see tourist destination. 82 00:06:30,875 --> 00:06:33,125 Known for its wild nightlife, 83 00:06:33,208 --> 00:06:36,041 tourists now come to party at Señor Chi-Chi's 84 00:06:36,125 --> 00:06:39,291 or The Drunken Mermaid, just to name a few. 85 00:06:39,375 --> 00:06:42,250 But I'm not here for the giant fishbowl margaritas 86 00:06:42,333 --> 00:06:44,333 or the wet T-shirt contests. 87 00:06:44,416 --> 00:06:47,375 I came here for the surf. 88 00:06:52,791 --> 00:06:53,833 Groovy. 89 00:06:55,958 --> 00:06:59,291 So many lost spring-breakers… 90 00:06:59,375 --> 00:07:03,500 A whole generation of teens who never found their way back home. 91 00:07:04,166 --> 00:07:08,166 Intoxicated revelers refusing to ever grow up. 92 00:07:09,291 --> 00:07:12,583 All dancing along the sandy shores, 93 00:07:12,666 --> 00:07:16,041 drinking up the waters from this mythical fountain. 94 00:07:16,125 --> 00:07:20,500 Water with the power to rejuvenate and keep them young forever. 95 00:07:22,041 --> 00:07:24,500 When you're out here in the ocean, 96 00:07:24,583 --> 00:07:27,291 you're always in the shallows of your youth. 97 00:07:28,625 --> 00:07:30,458 Endless rays. 98 00:07:30,541 --> 00:07:32,625 Endless waves. 99 00:07:32,708 --> 00:07:35,500 -Endless adolescence. -Chug! Chug! Chug! 100 00:07:35,583 --> 00:07:39,958 Overall, Cabo San Lucas had some great surf. 101 00:07:40,041 --> 00:07:43,500 But if I was going to find the perfect wave, 102 00:07:43,583 --> 00:07:48,750 I needed to look harder and travel to spots untouched by tourists. 103 00:07:48,833 --> 00:07:52,333 Hey cutie. Once you're done here, how about joining us for a drink? 104 00:07:53,875 --> 00:07:55,333 Maybe next time. 105 00:07:57,541 --> 00:07:58,625 Real smooth. 106 00:07:58,708 --> 00:08:01,041 Shut up. I didn't hear you say anything. 107 00:08:44,416 --> 00:08:47,833 My search for the perfect wave continues here. 108 00:08:47,916 --> 00:08:51,333 The mecca of the surf world, Mavericks. 109 00:08:51,416 --> 00:08:54,500 With waves topping out at over 60 feet, 110 00:08:54,583 --> 00:08:58,041 it's become a proving ground for every big-wave surfer. 111 00:08:58,708 --> 00:09:03,041 So before I even paddled out, I knew I had to prepare. 112 00:09:03,125 --> 00:09:05,916 I meditated four times a day, 113 00:09:06,000 --> 00:09:07,500 two more than my usual. 114 00:09:10,916 --> 00:09:15,791 I imagine myself a wolf, the waves a baby deer. 115 00:09:17,125 --> 00:09:21,875 I imagine myself a bear, the waves passing salmon. 116 00:09:22,833 --> 00:09:24,958 And I was watching it. 117 00:09:25,041 --> 00:09:29,291 From the shore, the cliffs, in the middle of the night. 118 00:09:29,375 --> 00:09:34,041 Always watching it, devouring it, learning from it. 119 00:09:40,833 --> 00:09:42,791 Before I knew it, I was ready. 120 00:09:45,000 --> 00:09:48,916 I chose to surf the monster with my old friend Nadia. 121 00:09:49,750 --> 00:09:52,333 She used to be a nurse in Sarajevo, 122 00:09:52,416 --> 00:09:54,541 then a nun in Cappadocia. 123 00:09:56,291 --> 00:09:58,541 Now she rode giants. 124 00:09:59,125 --> 00:10:02,000 I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous. 125 00:10:02,083 --> 00:10:05,416 Waves like these remind you of how small you really are. 126 00:10:06,083 --> 00:10:08,333 Just a speck of sand in the ocean. 127 00:10:08,416 --> 00:10:11,416 A grain of rice in God's loving palm. 128 00:10:12,125 --> 00:10:18,833 I finally wrangle a 50-footer and prepare to ascend to whatever plane Nadia's on. 129 00:10:18,916 --> 00:10:22,958 It's an amazing feeling, riding that wave. 130 00:10:23,708 --> 00:10:25,583 It's pure power. 131 00:10:25,666 --> 00:10:27,250 Pure strength. 132 00:10:28,250 --> 00:10:30,708 For a moment, I think I've found it, 133 00:10:30,791 --> 00:10:33,000 the wave I've been looking for. 134 00:10:35,125 --> 00:10:36,708 But when it's over, 135 00:10:37,333 --> 00:10:38,833 I know I haven't. 136 00:10:39,500 --> 00:10:43,250 This is Nadia's perfect wave, not mine. 137 00:10:47,541 --> 00:10:49,500 The search continues. 138 00:10:56,833 --> 00:11:00,625 In Tuscany, I decide to skip the waves altogether. 139 00:11:02,250 --> 00:11:04,708 No, I was here for a different reason. 140 00:11:06,833 --> 00:11:08,583 To visit an old flame. 141 00:11:10,500 --> 00:11:12,875 Angelo Alfolini. 142 00:11:14,833 --> 00:11:19,166 It was immediately clear that time apart had not lessened our bond. 143 00:11:20,291 --> 00:11:25,416 We roamed the countryside discussing politics, talking philosophy, 144 00:11:25,500 --> 00:11:29,708 and debating various topics ranging from love, life, 145 00:11:29,791 --> 00:11:32,666 and our observations on Italian cinema. 146 00:11:33,875 --> 00:11:36,041 We spoke concerning wine 147 00:11:36,125 --> 00:11:40,583 and the merits of grapes squeezed in old wooden barrels. 148 00:11:40,666 --> 00:11:43,708 Made rigatoni and fresh mozzarella, 149 00:11:43,791 --> 00:11:47,583 and dined on the finest risotto I've ever tasted. 150 00:11:49,791 --> 00:11:52,375 But as quickly as my visit had begun, 151 00:11:54,083 --> 00:11:55,125 it was over. 152 00:11:58,791 --> 00:12:01,166 The sun had risen, and I was off, 153 00:12:01,250 --> 00:12:03,375 setting out back on my journey 154 00:12:03,458 --> 00:12:05,708 in search of the perfect wave. 155 00:12:08,500 --> 00:12:10,666 Arrivederci, my love. 156 00:12:17,791 --> 00:12:21,875 In Lake Michigan, we urinated in our wetsuits to keep warm. 157 00:12:24,583 --> 00:12:27,750 Meanwhile, in Thailand, the waves were short-lived. 158 00:12:27,833 --> 00:12:31,291 But I did find a souvenir that would last a lifetime. 159 00:12:34,958 --> 00:12:36,583 All in all, a good week. 160 00:12:43,958 --> 00:12:46,666 Still, something was off. 161 00:12:49,333 --> 00:12:51,083 I had become lost. 162 00:12:54,083 --> 00:12:58,166 The more I traveled, the more I could feel it slipping away. 163 00:13:00,333 --> 00:13:02,916 Did the perfect wave even exist? 164 00:13:03,833 --> 00:13:08,541 On the shores of Kilokilo, I explained my troubles to Auli'i, 165 00:13:08,625 --> 00:13:12,583 a local surfer who believed the true key to finding the perfect wave 166 00:13:12,666 --> 00:13:15,250 lied in psychotropic substances. 167 00:13:16,041 --> 00:13:18,833 They called it "Gesthaini." 168 00:13:18,916 --> 00:13:22,500 It starts as a flower grown on the bark of mangroves 169 00:13:22,583 --> 00:13:24,541 that's later ingested by bats, 170 00:13:24,625 --> 00:13:27,958 then excreted and scraped off the walls of caves 171 00:13:28,041 --> 00:13:30,833 before finally being served in a tea. 172 00:13:32,125 --> 00:13:34,833 Was this the answer I was looking for? 173 00:13:36,208 --> 00:13:40,416 That night, Auli'i led me down the banks of the Saanapu River 174 00:13:40,500 --> 00:13:43,333 to see an elder known only as "Wailele." 175 00:13:44,250 --> 00:13:47,916 Wailele was believed to be over 100 years old 176 00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:50,500 and had guided many a wayward traveler. 177 00:13:52,083 --> 00:13:55,791 I was scared, but if this was the way to find the perfect wave, 178 00:13:55,875 --> 00:13:57,041 so be it. 179 00:15:17,791 --> 00:15:19,291 I'd seen them. 180 00:15:19,375 --> 00:15:21,000 The perfect waves. 181 00:15:22,708 --> 00:15:27,208 And for the first time, they felt closer than ever before. 182 00:15:40,291 --> 00:15:45,000 There are easier ways to get to the Omani coast on the Arabian Sea. 183 00:15:45,083 --> 00:15:50,833 A number of airports spare travelers the brutal trek across the Sharqiya Sands. 184 00:15:50,916 --> 00:15:54,208 But it also deprives them of its desert swells. 185 00:15:54,916 --> 00:15:57,708 A sea of dunes frozen in time. 186 00:16:00,916 --> 00:16:03,541 I couldn't come to Oman without dropping in. 187 00:16:24,750 --> 00:16:26,083 Gnarly set. 188 00:16:35,625 --> 00:16:37,541 The tea is good. 189 00:16:37,625 --> 00:16:42,000 Jackson tells me it's Karak Chai, a local favorite. 190 00:16:42,083 --> 00:16:45,291 I met Jackson in the lineup at Manhattan Beach. 191 00:16:45,375 --> 00:16:48,833 Back then he was an even bigger surf bum than me. 192 00:16:48,916 --> 00:16:52,500 Dawn patrol seven days a week, rain or shine. 193 00:16:52,583 --> 00:16:54,291 Then he gave it all up. 194 00:16:54,375 --> 00:16:58,208 When I ask him why, it's clear he doesn't want to talk about it. 195 00:16:59,333 --> 00:17:00,333 Fair enough. 196 00:17:01,500 --> 00:17:04,541 For some, the obsession becomes too much. 197 00:17:04,625 --> 00:17:09,083 You can lose yourself in it until it's all you have left. 198 00:17:10,083 --> 00:17:11,791 Whatever happened to Jackson, 199 00:17:11,875 --> 00:17:16,625 I think he needed to put an entire desert between himself and the surf. 200 00:17:16,708 --> 00:17:19,375 I guess he's all about weaving now. 201 00:17:19,458 --> 00:17:23,166 When he asks how I'm doing, I tell him about my vision. 202 00:17:23,250 --> 00:17:27,125 The monster, the fog, the perfect wave. 203 00:17:27,208 --> 00:17:28,625 He just laughs. 204 00:17:28,708 --> 00:17:32,916 I should have known better than to bring up gospel to an atheist. 205 00:17:33,000 --> 00:17:36,333 After that, Jackson just sort of slipped away, 206 00:17:36,416 --> 00:17:40,625 lost, sifting through the ashes of something in his mind. 207 00:17:43,625 --> 00:17:44,916 Bye, Jackson. 208 00:17:45,833 --> 00:17:47,208 Thanks for the rug. 209 00:17:51,208 --> 00:17:53,458 The next few days were difficult. 210 00:17:54,666 --> 00:17:58,250 I couldn't get the vision of those perfect waves out of my head. 211 00:17:59,500 --> 00:18:03,458 It crawled inside my being and it began to affect my sleep. 212 00:18:04,375 --> 00:18:06,416 So I set off for the one place 213 00:18:06,500 --> 00:18:09,500 where I knew I could make what I had seen a reality. 214 00:18:14,666 --> 00:18:16,625 Located in East Sussex, 215 00:18:16,708 --> 00:18:21,916 this sleepy seaside town isn't exactly known for being a renowned surf hub. 216 00:18:23,166 --> 00:18:28,250 But when the winds start gusting and the fog rolls in, that all changes, 217 00:18:29,125 --> 00:18:31,250 transforming this quaint little hamlet 218 00:18:31,333 --> 00:18:34,916 into one of the gnarliest places to snack on waves. 219 00:18:38,375 --> 00:18:39,416 Far out. 220 00:18:41,666 --> 00:18:44,458 When I got here, there was a fog advisory. 221 00:18:44,541 --> 00:18:47,500 More mist and haze than they usually allow. 222 00:18:47,583 --> 00:18:50,458 And the lifeguard had begun to wave everyone in. 223 00:18:51,166 --> 00:18:53,625 Perfect. More waves for me. 224 00:18:54,875 --> 00:18:57,333 It was just like my vision. 225 00:18:57,416 --> 00:18:59,958 No sky, no ocean. 226 00:19:00,041 --> 00:19:01,833 Just me and the fog. 227 00:19:01,916 --> 00:19:03,291 I knew I was close. 228 00:19:04,458 --> 00:19:06,000 Then I heard it. 229 00:19:06,083 --> 00:19:08,708 The rumblings of a building wave. 230 00:19:08,791 --> 00:19:10,500 Was this it? 231 00:19:10,583 --> 00:19:11,416 Was this-- 232 00:19:52,000 --> 00:19:53,416 It was all a blur. 233 00:19:54,458 --> 00:19:57,625 One moment I was living out my vision, and the next… 234 00:20:02,125 --> 00:20:06,166 Days later, I struggled to come to terms with my failings. 235 00:20:09,000 --> 00:20:12,750 In London, I was reunited with my misplaced suitcase. 236 00:20:13,500 --> 00:20:16,541 But the items inside now seemed foreign. 237 00:20:16,625 --> 00:20:18,791 The personal effects of a stranger. 238 00:20:19,500 --> 00:20:21,583 Whose chrysanthemum is this? 239 00:20:23,625 --> 00:20:27,125 A stranger who believed in the perfect wave. 240 00:20:31,750 --> 00:20:36,416 It was on the shores of Peru that I realized surfing wasn't for me anymore. 241 00:20:38,541 --> 00:20:41,500 Maybe I could learn a trade like Jackson. 242 00:20:41,583 --> 00:20:43,791 Maybe I could make ceramic mugs. 243 00:20:44,625 --> 00:20:46,458 Everyone likes mugs. 244 00:20:47,833 --> 00:20:48,666 Mugs. 245 00:20:48,750 --> 00:20:51,208 The perfect gift for any occasion. 246 00:20:51,708 --> 00:20:54,666 I just knew it was time to move on. 247 00:21:04,541 --> 00:21:08,666 I was just about to head inside and call it quits when, like a mirage, 248 00:21:08,750 --> 00:21:10,625 a figure appeared. 249 00:21:11,333 --> 00:21:13,333 I knew him from somewhere. 250 00:21:13,416 --> 00:21:16,666 But where? Where did I know him? 251 00:21:17,333 --> 00:21:18,583 Then it hit me. 252 00:21:19,583 --> 00:21:21,583 My lighthouse keeper. 253 00:21:21,666 --> 00:21:23,666 In some sort of gown? 254 00:21:23,750 --> 00:21:26,625 Is that a psychiatric bracelet? 255 00:21:29,125 --> 00:21:33,916 He immediately recognized the desperation in my eyes and asked what was wrong. 256 00:21:35,250 --> 00:21:37,750 As he lapsed in and out of consciousness, 257 00:21:37,833 --> 00:21:42,041 I told him about my search, and how I had failed miserably. 258 00:21:42,833 --> 00:21:44,625 He said he knew the way. 259 00:21:45,125 --> 00:21:47,541 Or at least that's what it sounded like. 260 00:21:47,625 --> 00:21:50,625 "I'll show you your perfect waves." 261 00:21:51,750 --> 00:21:55,333 "Thanks," I said. "But I don't believe in that anymore." 262 00:21:55,416 --> 00:21:58,166 "Single day's journey by lamp oil." 263 00:22:00,083 --> 00:22:02,208 At first I was wary. 264 00:22:02,291 --> 00:22:06,416 He was drunk and the hospital robe was even less reassuring. 265 00:22:07,291 --> 00:22:10,750 And yet there was something in his eyes that made me want to trust him. 266 00:22:14,291 --> 00:22:18,208 So I followed him into the heart of the Peruvian jungle. 267 00:22:19,083 --> 00:22:22,750 There was no trail, no markers, no order. 268 00:22:22,833 --> 00:22:26,208 He was only following the compass within his mind. 269 00:22:26,291 --> 00:22:29,625 The jungle was relentlessly fertile. 270 00:22:29,708 --> 00:22:35,208 It was hot, humid, and full of mosquitoes and poisonous plants. 271 00:22:35,291 --> 00:22:38,708 The jungle didn't want us there, and it was fighting us to get out. 272 00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:41,083 What had I done? 273 00:22:41,166 --> 00:22:45,333 Did I really follow a stranger into this violent obscenity? 274 00:22:45,416 --> 00:22:47,333 Was that a neck tattoo? 275 00:22:47,416 --> 00:22:49,291 Had that always been there? 276 00:22:50,916 --> 00:22:53,541 At one point he turned and said, 277 00:22:53,625 --> 00:22:56,291 "The spirit of the forest is with us now." 278 00:22:56,958 --> 00:22:59,083 I hoped to God he was right. 279 00:23:01,333 --> 00:23:04,500 At night, we took turns looking out for pumas. 280 00:23:05,791 --> 00:23:07,166 He slept first 281 00:23:07,250 --> 00:23:09,458 and didn't wake up until the next morning. 282 00:23:11,333 --> 00:23:14,916 It wasn't until sometime in the afternoon when we saw it. 283 00:23:15,416 --> 00:23:18,375 In the ocean of green was a glimmer of blue. 284 00:23:18,458 --> 00:23:20,958 And like a beacon, we followed it out. 285 00:23:24,125 --> 00:23:27,041 And there they were, just like he had promised. 286 00:23:27,125 --> 00:23:28,666 The perfect waves. 287 00:23:30,541 --> 00:23:32,833 They were truly beautiful. 288 00:23:32,916 --> 00:23:34,750 A wonder to behold. 289 00:23:35,541 --> 00:23:40,041 I needed to get in, to experience them as fast as I could. 290 00:23:40,125 --> 00:23:43,166 But, as I drew closer, 291 00:23:43,666 --> 00:23:46,416 I noticed something in the sands. 292 00:23:47,125 --> 00:23:49,125 Was that my surfboard? 293 00:23:49,833 --> 00:23:51,250 But how? 294 00:23:52,125 --> 00:23:55,791 I realized I was standing exactly where I started, 295 00:23:55,875 --> 00:23:59,166 and yet here it was, perfection. 296 00:23:59,833 --> 00:24:02,750 How can this be? What had changed? 297 00:24:02,833 --> 00:24:07,208 After all, the only thing that was different was me. 298 00:24:07,291 --> 00:24:09,291 My search had blinded me. 299 00:24:09,375 --> 00:24:13,791 This whole time I was looking for waves that didn't need to be found. 300 00:24:13,875 --> 00:24:17,291 Was that this man's intention all along? 301 00:24:17,375 --> 00:24:22,375 To drag me through the jungles as a way to break through and change my perspective? 302 00:24:25,583 --> 00:24:28,458 Suddenly, my whole journey came flooding back. 303 00:24:28,541 --> 00:24:31,833 And with it, all the waves I had surfed. 304 00:24:31,916 --> 00:24:35,583 In Kapali, Cabo, Mavericks, 305 00:24:35,666 --> 00:24:38,250 Michigan, Kilokilo, 306 00:24:38,333 --> 00:24:41,250 and here at Valparaiso. 307 00:24:41,333 --> 00:24:43,833 They had all been perfect. 308 00:24:45,083 --> 00:24:47,375 They would always be perfect. 309 00:24:48,708 --> 00:24:50,125 Te pai kē. 310 00:24:52,791 --> 00:24:58,375 I returned home to the shores of Kapali, energized with a new outlook on life. 311 00:24:58,458 --> 00:25:00,000 But I wasn't alone. 312 00:25:01,750 --> 00:25:04,791 After wrestling alligators in Western Australia 313 00:25:04,875 --> 00:25:07,833 and free-soloing up El Capitan, 314 00:25:07,916 --> 00:25:13,000 Baba Lou Anne was more than happy to kick back and relax on some chill waves. 315 00:25:14,000 --> 00:25:15,583 Dottie was back too, 316 00:25:16,708 --> 00:25:21,500 and with a new friend, Toshio Matsuda and his board "Joaquin." 317 00:25:22,166 --> 00:25:24,375 And look who stopped by to say hi. 318 00:25:24,458 --> 00:25:25,416 CP. 319 00:25:25,500 --> 00:25:28,916 After her first novel was optioned into a movie, 320 00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:31,250 CP started on her next one. 321 00:25:33,208 --> 00:25:38,041 This time, our four lady surfers are infiltrating a dangerous biker gang 322 00:25:38,125 --> 00:25:42,666 to clear their names and possibly win the Redondo Beach surf competition. 323 00:25:44,458 --> 00:25:45,791 Sounds gripping. 324 00:25:46,541 --> 00:25:50,375 As for me, my journey ends here. 325 00:25:51,083 --> 00:25:52,583 Endless rays. 326 00:25:53,083 --> 00:25:54,791 Endless waves. 327 00:25:55,833 --> 00:25:58,333 When you're up on your board, you're alive, 328 00:25:58,416 --> 00:26:02,500 safe in the stillness of summer, speeding towards the infinite. 329 00:26:02,583 --> 00:26:04,750 There is no reward or prize. 330 00:26:04,833 --> 00:26:06,625 Nothing to chase or find. 331 00:26:06,708 --> 00:26:08,208 You're already there. 332 00:26:08,291 --> 00:26:10,333 Gliding across the sea. 333 00:26:10,416 --> 00:26:12,791 That's when perfection happens. 334 00:26:12,875 --> 00:26:15,750 That's when time stops and your heart opens. 335 00:26:16,250 --> 00:26:18,666 And it may only be for a second, 336 00:26:18,750 --> 00:26:20,625 but once it collapses, 337 00:26:20,708 --> 00:26:24,791 all you need to do is paddle out and capture it all over again. 338 00:26:26,583 --> 00:26:27,666 And again. 339 00:26:29,250 --> 00:26:30,500 And again. 340 00:26:31,666 --> 00:26:32,916 And again. 341 00:26:34,583 --> 00:26:41,541 ♪ Yes, it's gonna be A cold, lonely summer ♪ 342 00:26:42,166 --> 00:26:46,333 ♪ But I'll fill the emptiness ♪ 343 00:26:46,416 --> 00:26:49,833 ♪ I'll send you all my love ♪ 344 00:26:49,916 --> 00:26:54,458 ♪ Every day in a letter ♪ 345 00:26:54,541 --> 00:26:58,250 ♪ Sealed with a kiss… ♪ 27264

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