Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:12,208 --> 00:00:13,666
Endless rays.
2
00:00:14,541 --> 00:00:16,125
Endless waves.
3
00:00:19,666 --> 00:00:23,333
I forget who I was
before I first got up on my board.
4
00:00:24,583 --> 00:00:27,416
That person washed away in the tide.
5
00:00:30,041 --> 00:00:33,250
When you're out on the surf,
you're a blank slate,
6
00:00:34,041 --> 00:00:37,291
free to let the waves carry you
into what's next.
7
00:00:37,958 --> 00:00:39,875
Free to be your perfect self.
8
00:00:42,125 --> 00:00:44,291
To find that perfect wave.
9
00:00:45,833 --> 00:00:49,375
Enveloped by the waters, held by them.
10
00:00:49,458 --> 00:00:50,833
That's home to me.
11
00:00:51,625 --> 00:00:54,250
When you come out
the other side of a break,
12
00:00:54,333 --> 00:00:55,916
you're a whole new person.
13
00:00:56,750 --> 00:00:58,208
You're a whole new you.
14
00:01:04,333 --> 00:01:06,916
Coconuts seem sweeter in the sun.
15
00:01:09,666 --> 00:01:10,583
Mahalo.
16
00:01:53,500 --> 00:01:57,458
Humans have been surfing Kapali
since the Middle Ages.
17
00:01:59,166 --> 00:02:02,666
Baba Lou Anne, Dottie, CP and I
rode in last week.
18
00:02:04,125 --> 00:02:08,458
In Kapali, the waves
are as big as our personalities.
19
00:02:09,208 --> 00:02:13,250
The exposed reef gives it
that consistent, clean point break.
20
00:02:16,125 --> 00:02:17,375
Real nice.
21
00:02:19,000 --> 00:02:21,208
Some consider surfing a sport,
22
00:02:21,291 --> 00:02:24,833
but the way Baba Lou Anne moves out there,
it's closer to art.
23
00:02:25,500 --> 00:02:28,083
She's really a fantastic surfer.
24
00:02:28,166 --> 00:02:31,750
She can ride with either foot forward.
Goofy and regular.
25
00:02:31,833 --> 00:02:34,125
Few surfers can do that.
26
00:02:34,208 --> 00:02:38,000
Fewer still can do it right in the middle
of a pull-out in midair.
27
00:02:38,083 --> 00:02:41,041
Ladies and gentlemen, Baba Lou Anne.
28
00:02:46,916 --> 00:02:51,208
Dottie hasn't been surfing long,
but she really has a ball.
29
00:02:51,291 --> 00:02:53,291
She's also recently divorced.
30
00:02:53,375 --> 00:02:54,958
After coming home from work
31
00:02:55,041 --> 00:02:58,875
and finding her husband
in bed with a dental hygienist,
32
00:02:58,958 --> 00:03:00,916
she now makes the sea her lover.
33
00:03:01,000 --> 00:03:05,458
Riding waves with reckless abandon
on a board nicknamed "Suzie."
34
00:03:06,625 --> 00:03:09,041
Say hello to the cameras, Dottie.
35
00:03:11,000 --> 00:03:16,333
CP, short for Corinthia Panatopoulos,
is an excellent surfer.
36
00:03:16,416 --> 00:03:19,541
She's blind in one eye,
no depth perception,
37
00:03:19,625 --> 00:03:22,041
but that doesn't seem to slow her down.
38
00:03:22,125 --> 00:03:25,375
You don't need two eyes
to see how good she is.
39
00:03:25,458 --> 00:03:26,958
Look at her go.
40
00:03:27,708 --> 00:03:31,041
When she's not on her board
taming wicked waves,
41
00:03:31,125 --> 00:03:32,875
CP is writing a book,
42
00:03:34,000 --> 00:03:39,916
an adventure novel about four lady surfers
who solve mysteries in their spare time.
43
00:03:40,666 --> 00:03:44,625
Not sure when she'll finish it,
but I like how one starts.
44
00:03:44,708 --> 00:03:49,333
Opera singer found in the shallows
with a throwing star in her back.
45
00:03:49,416 --> 00:03:51,708
Good beach read, that's for sure.
46
00:03:53,750 --> 00:03:56,791
We gather here at the shores of Kapali,
47
00:03:56,875 --> 00:04:01,083
20 kilometers from
the strawberry-shaped islands of Kono
48
00:04:01,166 --> 00:04:03,458
for a week of sun and fun.
49
00:04:03,541 --> 00:04:07,541
Afterward, we plan to break off
and head our own separate ways.
50
00:04:08,208 --> 00:04:11,416
Baba Lou Anne is heading out to Seattle.
51
00:04:11,500 --> 00:04:14,625
Not to surf the choppy waves
of Alki Point,
52
00:04:14,708 --> 00:04:17,125
but to base jump off the Space Needle.
53
00:04:18,625 --> 00:04:21,916
Dottie and her board, Suzie,
are headed to Japan.
54
00:04:22,875 --> 00:04:25,583
CP is leaving to dedicate more time
55
00:04:25,666 --> 00:04:28,958
to cooking up clever twists
for her murder mysteries.
56
00:04:30,083 --> 00:04:34,333
As for me, I'm gonna chase
that sun around the world,
57
00:04:34,833 --> 00:04:38,916
in search of the biggest waves,
the friendliest people,
58
00:04:39,833 --> 00:04:43,250
all the while discovering myself
along the way,
59
00:04:44,083 --> 00:04:47,250
as I jump into the waters surfboard-first.
60
00:04:47,958 --> 00:04:49,333
All heart and soul,
61
00:04:50,041 --> 00:04:53,041
just my board and a heavy coat of wax.
62
00:04:57,416 --> 00:04:58,583
Righteous.
63
00:05:04,958 --> 00:05:08,333
Packing for this kind of journey
is extremely important.
64
00:05:08,416 --> 00:05:11,333
You need to stay smart
and pack with a purpose.
65
00:05:11,416 --> 00:05:15,000
And for me, that means surfboard wax,
66
00:05:15,083 --> 00:05:18,083
bathing suit, one chrysanthemum,
67
00:05:18,166 --> 00:05:21,916
three towels,
my lucky puka shell necklace,
68
00:05:22,000 --> 00:05:24,750
sunscreen, SPF 150,
69
00:05:24,833 --> 00:05:29,208
two disposable cameras,
an English-to-Maori phrasebook,
70
00:05:29,291 --> 00:05:33,666
trashy beach read,
The Swells of Love by Alice T. Townsend,
71
00:05:33,750 --> 00:05:37,125
photograph of surf legend
Kathy Kohner-Zuckerman,
72
00:05:37,208 --> 00:05:39,583
incense sticks, seven,
73
00:05:39,666 --> 00:05:41,833
flare gun, sunglasses,
74
00:05:41,916 --> 00:05:44,750
mysterious totem, machete.
75
00:05:46,000 --> 00:05:50,875
And the willingness to chuck it all away
and accept where life takes you.
76
00:05:52,875 --> 00:05:56,416
I'm sorry, ma'am.
Your suitcase appears to be in London.
77
00:06:05,500 --> 00:06:09,208
There's nothing like a cool breeze
after a three-hour flight.
78
00:06:09,291 --> 00:06:13,958
None cooler than from
the pristine waters of the Sea of Cortez.
79
00:06:14,041 --> 00:06:18,541
I start my search for the perfect wave
here at Cabo San Lucas.
80
00:06:19,666 --> 00:06:24,125
Once a sleepy town
visited only by nomad surfers,
81
00:06:24,208 --> 00:06:28,708
Cabo San Lucas has become
a must-see tourist destination.
82
00:06:30,875 --> 00:06:33,125
Known for its wild nightlife,
83
00:06:33,208 --> 00:06:36,041
tourists now come to party
at Señor Chi-Chi's
84
00:06:36,125 --> 00:06:39,291
or The Drunken Mermaid,
just to name a few.
85
00:06:39,375 --> 00:06:42,250
But I'm not here
for the giant fishbowl margaritas
86
00:06:42,333 --> 00:06:44,333
or the wet T-shirt contests.
87
00:06:44,416 --> 00:06:47,375
I came here for the surf.
88
00:06:52,791 --> 00:06:53,833
Groovy.
89
00:06:55,958 --> 00:06:59,291
So many lost spring-breakers…
90
00:06:59,375 --> 00:07:03,500
A whole generation of teens
who never found their way back home.
91
00:07:04,166 --> 00:07:08,166
Intoxicated revelers
refusing to ever grow up.
92
00:07:09,291 --> 00:07:12,583
All dancing along the sandy shores,
93
00:07:12,666 --> 00:07:16,041
drinking up the waters
from this mythical fountain.
94
00:07:16,125 --> 00:07:20,500
Water with the power to rejuvenate
and keep them young forever.
95
00:07:22,041 --> 00:07:24,500
When you're out here in the ocean,
96
00:07:24,583 --> 00:07:27,291
you're always
in the shallows of your youth.
97
00:07:28,625 --> 00:07:30,458
Endless rays.
98
00:07:30,541 --> 00:07:32,625
Endless waves.
99
00:07:32,708 --> 00:07:35,500
-Endless adolescence.
-Chug! Chug! Chug!
100
00:07:35,583 --> 00:07:39,958
Overall, Cabo San Lucas
had some great surf.
101
00:07:40,041 --> 00:07:43,500
But if I was going to find
the perfect wave,
102
00:07:43,583 --> 00:07:48,750
I needed to look harder and travel
to spots untouched by tourists.
103
00:07:48,833 --> 00:07:52,333
Hey cutie. Once you're done here,
how about joining us for a drink?
104
00:07:53,875 --> 00:07:55,333
Maybe next time.
105
00:07:57,541 --> 00:07:58,625
Real smooth.
106
00:07:58,708 --> 00:08:01,041
Shut up. I didn't hear you say anything.
107
00:08:44,416 --> 00:08:47,833
My search
for the perfect wave continues here.
108
00:08:47,916 --> 00:08:51,333
The mecca of the surf world, Mavericks.
109
00:08:51,416 --> 00:08:54,500
With waves topping out at over 60 feet,
110
00:08:54,583 --> 00:08:58,041
it's become a proving ground
for every big-wave surfer.
111
00:08:58,708 --> 00:09:03,041
So before I even paddled out,
I knew I had to prepare.
112
00:09:03,125 --> 00:09:05,916
I meditated four times a day,
113
00:09:06,000 --> 00:09:07,500
two more than my usual.
114
00:09:10,916 --> 00:09:15,791
I imagine myself a wolf,
the waves a baby deer.
115
00:09:17,125 --> 00:09:21,875
I imagine myself a bear,
the waves passing salmon.
116
00:09:22,833 --> 00:09:24,958
And I was watching it.
117
00:09:25,041 --> 00:09:29,291
From the shore,
the cliffs, in the middle of the night.
118
00:09:29,375 --> 00:09:34,041
Always watching it,
devouring it, learning from it.
119
00:09:40,833 --> 00:09:42,791
Before I knew it, I was ready.
120
00:09:45,000 --> 00:09:48,916
I chose to surf the monster
with my old friend Nadia.
121
00:09:49,750 --> 00:09:52,333
She used to be a nurse in Sarajevo,
122
00:09:52,416 --> 00:09:54,541
then a nun in Cappadocia.
123
00:09:56,291 --> 00:09:58,541
Now she rode giants.
124
00:09:59,125 --> 00:10:02,000
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous.
125
00:10:02,083 --> 00:10:05,416
Waves like these remind you
of how small you really are.
126
00:10:06,083 --> 00:10:08,333
Just a speck of sand in the ocean.
127
00:10:08,416 --> 00:10:11,416
A grain of rice in God's loving palm.
128
00:10:12,125 --> 00:10:18,833
I finally wrangle a 50-footer and prepare
to ascend to whatever plane Nadia's on.
129
00:10:18,916 --> 00:10:22,958
It's an amazing feeling, riding that wave.
130
00:10:23,708 --> 00:10:25,583
It's pure power.
131
00:10:25,666 --> 00:10:27,250
Pure strength.
132
00:10:28,250 --> 00:10:30,708
For a moment, I think I've found it,
133
00:10:30,791 --> 00:10:33,000
the wave I've been looking for.
134
00:10:35,125 --> 00:10:36,708
But when it's over,
135
00:10:37,333 --> 00:10:38,833
I know I haven't.
136
00:10:39,500 --> 00:10:43,250
This is Nadia's perfect wave, not mine.
137
00:10:47,541 --> 00:10:49,500
The search continues.
138
00:10:56,833 --> 00:11:00,625
In Tuscany,
I decide to skip the waves altogether.
139
00:11:02,250 --> 00:11:04,708
No, I was here for a different reason.
140
00:11:06,833 --> 00:11:08,583
To visit an old flame.
141
00:11:10,500 --> 00:11:12,875
Angelo Alfolini.
142
00:11:14,833 --> 00:11:19,166
It was immediately clear that time apart
had not lessened our bond.
143
00:11:20,291 --> 00:11:25,416
We roamed the countryside
discussing politics, talking philosophy,
144
00:11:25,500 --> 00:11:29,708
and debating various topics
ranging from love, life,
145
00:11:29,791 --> 00:11:32,666
and our observations on Italian cinema.
146
00:11:33,875 --> 00:11:36,041
We spoke concerning wine
147
00:11:36,125 --> 00:11:40,583
and the merits of grapes
squeezed in old wooden barrels.
148
00:11:40,666 --> 00:11:43,708
Made rigatoni and fresh mozzarella,
149
00:11:43,791 --> 00:11:47,583
and dined on the finest risotto
I've ever tasted.
150
00:11:49,791 --> 00:11:52,375
But as quickly as my visit had begun,
151
00:11:54,083 --> 00:11:55,125
it was over.
152
00:11:58,791 --> 00:12:01,166
The sun had risen, and I was off,
153
00:12:01,250 --> 00:12:03,375
setting out back on my journey
154
00:12:03,458 --> 00:12:05,708
in search of the perfect wave.
155
00:12:08,500 --> 00:12:10,666
Arrivederci, my love.
156
00:12:17,791 --> 00:12:21,875
In Lake Michigan, we urinated
in our wetsuits to keep warm.
157
00:12:24,583 --> 00:12:27,750
Meanwhile, in Thailand,
the waves were short-lived.
158
00:12:27,833 --> 00:12:31,291
But I did find a souvenir
that would last a lifetime.
159
00:12:34,958 --> 00:12:36,583
All in all, a good week.
160
00:12:43,958 --> 00:12:46,666
Still, something was off.
161
00:12:49,333 --> 00:12:51,083
I had become lost.
162
00:12:54,083 --> 00:12:58,166
The more I traveled,
the more I could feel it slipping away.
163
00:13:00,333 --> 00:13:02,916
Did the perfect wave even exist?
164
00:13:03,833 --> 00:13:08,541
On the shores of Kilokilo,
I explained my troubles to Auli'i,
165
00:13:08,625 --> 00:13:12,583
a local surfer who believed
the true key to finding the perfect wave
166
00:13:12,666 --> 00:13:15,250
lied in psychotropic substances.
167
00:13:16,041 --> 00:13:18,833
They called it "Gesthaini."
168
00:13:18,916 --> 00:13:22,500
It starts as a flower grown
on the bark of mangroves
169
00:13:22,583 --> 00:13:24,541
that's later ingested by bats,
170
00:13:24,625 --> 00:13:27,958
then excreted and scraped off
the walls of caves
171
00:13:28,041 --> 00:13:30,833
before finally being served in a tea.
172
00:13:32,125 --> 00:13:34,833
Was this the answer I was looking for?
173
00:13:36,208 --> 00:13:40,416
That night, Auli'i led me
down the banks of the Saanapu River
174
00:13:40,500 --> 00:13:43,333
to see an elder known only as "Wailele."
175
00:13:44,250 --> 00:13:47,916
Wailele was believed to be
over 100 years old
176
00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:50,500
and had guided many a wayward traveler.
177
00:13:52,083 --> 00:13:55,791
I was scared, but if this was the way
to find the perfect wave,
178
00:13:55,875 --> 00:13:57,041
so be it.
179
00:15:17,791 --> 00:15:19,291
I'd seen them.
180
00:15:19,375 --> 00:15:21,000
The perfect waves.
181
00:15:22,708 --> 00:15:27,208
And for the first time,
they felt closer than ever before.
182
00:15:40,291 --> 00:15:45,000
There are easier ways to get to
the Omani coast on the Arabian Sea.
183
00:15:45,083 --> 00:15:50,833
A number of airports spare travelers
the brutal trek across the Sharqiya Sands.
184
00:15:50,916 --> 00:15:54,208
But it also deprives them
of its desert swells.
185
00:15:54,916 --> 00:15:57,708
A sea of dunes frozen in time.
186
00:16:00,916 --> 00:16:03,541
I couldn't come to Oman
without dropping in.
187
00:16:24,750 --> 00:16:26,083
Gnarly set.
188
00:16:35,625 --> 00:16:37,541
The tea is good.
189
00:16:37,625 --> 00:16:42,000
Jackson tells me it's Karak Chai,
a local favorite.
190
00:16:42,083 --> 00:16:45,291
I met Jackson in the lineup
at Manhattan Beach.
191
00:16:45,375 --> 00:16:48,833
Back then he was
an even bigger surf bum than me.
192
00:16:48,916 --> 00:16:52,500
Dawn patrol seven days a week,
rain or shine.
193
00:16:52,583 --> 00:16:54,291
Then he gave it all up.
194
00:16:54,375 --> 00:16:58,208
When I ask him why, it's clear
he doesn't want to talk about it.
195
00:16:59,333 --> 00:17:00,333
Fair enough.
196
00:17:01,500 --> 00:17:04,541
For some, the obsession becomes too much.
197
00:17:04,625 --> 00:17:09,083
You can lose yourself in it
until it's all you have left.
198
00:17:10,083 --> 00:17:11,791
Whatever happened to Jackson,
199
00:17:11,875 --> 00:17:16,625
I think he needed to put an entire desert
between himself and the surf.
200
00:17:16,708 --> 00:17:19,375
I guess he's all about weaving now.
201
00:17:19,458 --> 00:17:23,166
When he asks how I'm doing,
I tell him about my vision.
202
00:17:23,250 --> 00:17:27,125
The monster, the fog, the perfect wave.
203
00:17:27,208 --> 00:17:28,625
He just laughs.
204
00:17:28,708 --> 00:17:32,916
I should have known better
than to bring up gospel to an atheist.
205
00:17:33,000 --> 00:17:36,333
After that,
Jackson just sort of slipped away,
206
00:17:36,416 --> 00:17:40,625
lost, sifting through the ashes
of something in his mind.
207
00:17:43,625 --> 00:17:44,916
Bye, Jackson.
208
00:17:45,833 --> 00:17:47,208
Thanks for the rug.
209
00:17:51,208 --> 00:17:53,458
The next few days were difficult.
210
00:17:54,666 --> 00:17:58,250
I couldn't get the vision
of those perfect waves out of my head.
211
00:17:59,500 --> 00:18:03,458
It crawled inside my being
and it began to affect my sleep.
212
00:18:04,375 --> 00:18:06,416
So I set off for the one place
213
00:18:06,500 --> 00:18:09,500
where I knew I could make
what I had seen a reality.
214
00:18:14,666 --> 00:18:16,625
Located in East Sussex,
215
00:18:16,708 --> 00:18:21,916
this sleepy seaside town isn't exactly
known for being a renowned surf hub.
216
00:18:23,166 --> 00:18:28,250
But when the winds start gusting
and the fog rolls in, that all changes,
217
00:18:29,125 --> 00:18:31,250
transforming this quaint little hamlet
218
00:18:31,333 --> 00:18:34,916
into one of the gnarliest places
to snack on waves.
219
00:18:38,375 --> 00:18:39,416
Far out.
220
00:18:41,666 --> 00:18:44,458
When I got here,
there was a fog advisory.
221
00:18:44,541 --> 00:18:47,500
More mist and haze
than they usually allow.
222
00:18:47,583 --> 00:18:50,458
And the lifeguard had begun
to wave everyone in.
223
00:18:51,166 --> 00:18:53,625
Perfect. More waves for me.
224
00:18:54,875 --> 00:18:57,333
It was just like my vision.
225
00:18:57,416 --> 00:18:59,958
No sky, no ocean.
226
00:19:00,041 --> 00:19:01,833
Just me and the fog.
227
00:19:01,916 --> 00:19:03,291
I knew I was close.
228
00:19:04,458 --> 00:19:06,000
Then I heard it.
229
00:19:06,083 --> 00:19:08,708
The rumblings of a building wave.
230
00:19:08,791 --> 00:19:10,500
Was this it?
231
00:19:10,583 --> 00:19:11,416
Was this--
232
00:19:52,000 --> 00:19:53,416
It was all a blur.
233
00:19:54,458 --> 00:19:57,625
One moment I was living out my vision,
and the next…
234
00:20:02,125 --> 00:20:06,166
Days later, I struggled
to come to terms with my failings.
235
00:20:09,000 --> 00:20:12,750
In London, I was reunited
with my misplaced suitcase.
236
00:20:13,500 --> 00:20:16,541
But the items inside now seemed foreign.
237
00:20:16,625 --> 00:20:18,791
The personal effects of a stranger.
238
00:20:19,500 --> 00:20:21,583
Whose chrysanthemum is this?
239
00:20:23,625 --> 00:20:27,125
A stranger who believed
in the perfect wave.
240
00:20:31,750 --> 00:20:36,416
It was on the shores of Peru that
I realized surfing wasn't for me anymore.
241
00:20:38,541 --> 00:20:41,500
Maybe I could learn a trade like Jackson.
242
00:20:41,583 --> 00:20:43,791
Maybe I could make ceramic mugs.
243
00:20:44,625 --> 00:20:46,458
Everyone likes mugs.
244
00:20:47,833 --> 00:20:48,666
Mugs.
245
00:20:48,750 --> 00:20:51,208
The perfect gift for any occasion.
246
00:20:51,708 --> 00:20:54,666
I just knew it was time to move on.
247
00:21:04,541 --> 00:21:08,666
I was just about to head inside
and call it quits when, like a mirage,
248
00:21:08,750 --> 00:21:10,625
a figure appeared.
249
00:21:11,333 --> 00:21:13,333
I knew him from somewhere.
250
00:21:13,416 --> 00:21:16,666
But where? Where did I know him?
251
00:21:17,333 --> 00:21:18,583
Then it hit me.
252
00:21:19,583 --> 00:21:21,583
My lighthouse keeper.
253
00:21:21,666 --> 00:21:23,666
In some sort of gown?
254
00:21:23,750 --> 00:21:26,625
Is that a psychiatric bracelet?
255
00:21:29,125 --> 00:21:33,916
He immediately recognized the desperation
in my eyes and asked what was wrong.
256
00:21:35,250 --> 00:21:37,750
As he lapsed in and out of consciousness,
257
00:21:37,833 --> 00:21:42,041
I told him about my search,
and how I had failed miserably.
258
00:21:42,833 --> 00:21:44,625
He said he knew the way.
259
00:21:45,125 --> 00:21:47,541
Or at least that's what it sounded like.
260
00:21:47,625 --> 00:21:50,625
"I'll show you your perfect waves."
261
00:21:51,750 --> 00:21:55,333
"Thanks," I said.
"But I don't believe in that anymore."
262
00:21:55,416 --> 00:21:58,166
"Single day's journey by lamp oil."
263
00:22:00,083 --> 00:22:02,208
At first I was wary.
264
00:22:02,291 --> 00:22:06,416
He was drunk and the hospital robe
was even less reassuring.
265
00:22:07,291 --> 00:22:10,750
And yet there was something in his eyes
that made me want to trust him.
266
00:22:14,291 --> 00:22:18,208
So I followed him into the heart
of the Peruvian jungle.
267
00:22:19,083 --> 00:22:22,750
There was no trail, no markers, no order.
268
00:22:22,833 --> 00:22:26,208
He was only following
the compass within his mind.
269
00:22:26,291 --> 00:22:29,625
The jungle was relentlessly fertile.
270
00:22:29,708 --> 00:22:35,208
It was hot, humid, and full of mosquitoes
and poisonous plants.
271
00:22:35,291 --> 00:22:38,708
The jungle didn't want us there,
and it was fighting us to get out.
272
00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:41,083
What had I done?
273
00:22:41,166 --> 00:22:45,333
Did I really follow a stranger
into this violent obscenity?
274
00:22:45,416 --> 00:22:47,333
Was that a neck tattoo?
275
00:22:47,416 --> 00:22:49,291
Had that always been there?
276
00:22:50,916 --> 00:22:53,541
At one point he turned and said,
277
00:22:53,625 --> 00:22:56,291
"The spirit of the forest is with us now."
278
00:22:56,958 --> 00:22:59,083
I hoped to God he was right.
279
00:23:01,333 --> 00:23:04,500
At night, we took turns
looking out for pumas.
280
00:23:05,791 --> 00:23:07,166
He slept first
281
00:23:07,250 --> 00:23:09,458
and didn't wake up until the next morning.
282
00:23:11,333 --> 00:23:14,916
It wasn't until sometime
in the afternoon when we saw it.
283
00:23:15,416 --> 00:23:18,375
In the ocean of green
was a glimmer of blue.
284
00:23:18,458 --> 00:23:20,958
And like a beacon, we followed it out.
285
00:23:24,125 --> 00:23:27,041
And there they were,
just like he had promised.
286
00:23:27,125 --> 00:23:28,666
The perfect waves.
287
00:23:30,541 --> 00:23:32,833
They were truly beautiful.
288
00:23:32,916 --> 00:23:34,750
A wonder to behold.
289
00:23:35,541 --> 00:23:40,041
I needed to get in,
to experience them as fast as I could.
290
00:23:40,125 --> 00:23:43,166
But, as I drew closer,
291
00:23:43,666 --> 00:23:46,416
I noticed something in the sands.
292
00:23:47,125 --> 00:23:49,125
Was that my surfboard?
293
00:23:49,833 --> 00:23:51,250
But how?
294
00:23:52,125 --> 00:23:55,791
I realized I was standing
exactly where I started,
295
00:23:55,875 --> 00:23:59,166
and yet here it was, perfection.
296
00:23:59,833 --> 00:24:02,750
How can this be? What had changed?
297
00:24:02,833 --> 00:24:07,208
After all, the only thing
that was different was me.
298
00:24:07,291 --> 00:24:09,291
My search had blinded me.
299
00:24:09,375 --> 00:24:13,791
This whole time I was looking
for waves that didn't need to be found.
300
00:24:13,875 --> 00:24:17,291
Was that this man's intention all along?
301
00:24:17,375 --> 00:24:22,375
To drag me through the jungles as a way to
break through and change my perspective?
302
00:24:25,583 --> 00:24:28,458
Suddenly, my whole journey
came flooding back.
303
00:24:28,541 --> 00:24:31,833
And with it, all the waves I had surfed.
304
00:24:31,916 --> 00:24:35,583
In Kapali, Cabo, Mavericks,
305
00:24:35,666 --> 00:24:38,250
Michigan, Kilokilo,
306
00:24:38,333 --> 00:24:41,250
and here at Valparaiso.
307
00:24:41,333 --> 00:24:43,833
They had all been perfect.
308
00:24:45,083 --> 00:24:47,375
They would always be perfect.
309
00:24:48,708 --> 00:24:50,125
Te pai kē.
310
00:24:52,791 --> 00:24:58,375
I returned home to the shores of Kapali,
energized with a new outlook on life.
311
00:24:58,458 --> 00:25:00,000
But I wasn't alone.
312
00:25:01,750 --> 00:25:04,791
After wrestling alligators
in Western Australia
313
00:25:04,875 --> 00:25:07,833
and free-soloing up El Capitan,
314
00:25:07,916 --> 00:25:13,000
Baba Lou Anne was more than happy to
kick back and relax on some chill waves.
315
00:25:14,000 --> 00:25:15,583
Dottie was back too,
316
00:25:16,708 --> 00:25:21,500
and with a new friend,
Toshio Matsuda and his board "Joaquin."
317
00:25:22,166 --> 00:25:24,375
And look who stopped by to say hi.
318
00:25:24,458 --> 00:25:25,416
CP.
319
00:25:25,500 --> 00:25:28,916
After her first novel
was optioned into a movie,
320
00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:31,250
CP started on her next one.
321
00:25:33,208 --> 00:25:38,041
This time, our four lady surfers
are infiltrating a dangerous biker gang
322
00:25:38,125 --> 00:25:42,666
to clear their names and possibly win
the Redondo Beach surf competition.
323
00:25:44,458 --> 00:25:45,791
Sounds gripping.
324
00:25:46,541 --> 00:25:50,375
As for me, my journey ends here.
325
00:25:51,083 --> 00:25:52,583
Endless rays.
326
00:25:53,083 --> 00:25:54,791
Endless waves.
327
00:25:55,833 --> 00:25:58,333
When you're up on your board,
you're alive,
328
00:25:58,416 --> 00:26:02,500
safe in the stillness of summer,
speeding towards the infinite.
329
00:26:02,583 --> 00:26:04,750
There is no reward or prize.
330
00:26:04,833 --> 00:26:06,625
Nothing to chase or find.
331
00:26:06,708 --> 00:26:08,208
You're already there.
332
00:26:08,291 --> 00:26:10,333
Gliding across the sea.
333
00:26:10,416 --> 00:26:12,791
That's when perfection happens.
334
00:26:12,875 --> 00:26:15,750
That's when time stops
and your heart opens.
335
00:26:16,250 --> 00:26:18,666
And it may only be for a second,
336
00:26:18,750 --> 00:26:20,625
but once it collapses,
337
00:26:20,708 --> 00:26:24,791
all you need to do is paddle out
and capture it all over again.
338
00:26:26,583 --> 00:26:27,666
And again.
339
00:26:29,250 --> 00:26:30,500
And again.
340
00:26:31,666 --> 00:26:32,916
And again.
341
00:26:34,583 --> 00:26:41,541
♪ Yes, it's gonna be
A cold, lonely summer ♪
342
00:26:42,166 --> 00:26:46,333
♪ But I'll fill the emptiness ♪
343
00:26:46,416 --> 00:26:49,833
♪ I'll send you all my love ♪
344
00:26:49,916 --> 00:26:54,458
♪ Every day in a letter ♪
345
00:26:54,541 --> 00:26:58,250
♪ Sealed with a kiss… ♪
27264
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.