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(upbeat bouzouki music)
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- [Peter] In the first series,
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I began unravelling the story
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of this spectacular and historic nation
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by travelling from Athens,
around the Peloponnese
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and up to the Ionian Islands.
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It took in parts of the country
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that lots of tourists know well.
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But in amongst the popular
places were hidden gems
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undiscovered by the holidaying masses.
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So far this series I've been back aboard
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my beautiful boat, Mia Zoi
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and travelled through a region of Greece
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I haven't spent much time in.
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We've skipped between the islands,
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taking in the sights of the North Aegean.
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It's been a journey of discovery
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where I've dug deeper into the fabric
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that makes Greece so unique.
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And immersed myself in
a centuries old culture
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unlike anywhere else on earth.
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The second leg of the
journey is seeing me leave
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the Northern Aegean and
heading to the Western Cyclads.
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Here, I've been exploring some of
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the lesser known islands of the region.
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It's been a step back in time
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to when Greece was much quieter.
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We're nearing the end of the journey
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but I've saved plenty
of great stuff for last.
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And in this episode I'm
continuing my time on Sifnos.
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After a couple of days on the island
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it's clear that this is
one of those hidden gems
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of the Mediterranean.
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Sifnos is a sleepy place where I imagine
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most of the locals know eachother
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and are across all the
gossip in the community.
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It's a charming island
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that your average foreign
tourist knows little about.
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And that's exactly why I love it.
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You know what they say?
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If you wanna go to a good restaurant,
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you follow the locals.
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Sifnos is an island where
all the locals are at.
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Have a look at the number plates.
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All Greek number plates.
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Must be a good island.
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So, here's a bit of background information
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to help establish the place.
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Less than three thousand people call
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this 74 square kilometre island home.
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It's a dry and arid landscape with
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a mountainous interior.
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Well, not really mountains
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but steep hills that go from
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the heart of Sifnos to the coast.
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In ancient times, mining brought
great wealth to the island.
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It was actually one of
the first places in Greece
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to mint coins.
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Throughout history there have been
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all sorts of ups and downs.
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From invasion and occupation
to economic disaster
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and now, slowly turned to prosperity.
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However, over the centuries,
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there has been one consistent thing.
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And that's the famous Sifnian pottery.
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The clay here's been shaped by artisans
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and shipped around the
country since ancient times.
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The summer months are the busy period
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when people come from the
mainland to escape the city.
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It's actually a little more
than a few hours from Piraeus
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via the high speed catamaran.
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It's also a great place to base yourself
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and explore the surrounding islands.
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To continue my intensive
education on all things Sifnos
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I met up with a local, Ronia,
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who knows the island like
the back of her hand.
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- [Ronia] The small bay of Kastro.
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It was the first port of
the island down there.
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High steps.
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- [Peter] Yeah.
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- [Ronia] Because of the stones they use.
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- So, these are remnants of
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the ancient city that
this is built on top of.
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- Yes and no.
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- You're never gonna
agree with me are you?
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You're never gonna agree with me, hey.
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I don't know what it is.
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- I don't know who's fault is this.
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- It is the Sifnian.
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- We'll decide at the end.
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- Okay, right.
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- So, this is the best example
of where the ancient city is.
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- I just said.
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Anyway, okay.
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- This village is not built
on top of the acropolis.
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- Okay.
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- It's built with the
marbles of the acropolis.
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- Ah.
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- They use the marbles and ancient pieces,
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not only from the acropolis,
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but also from the ancient city below
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the acropolis as building materials.
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This happened during Venetian time.
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So, here we can see four different pieces
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from four different columns creating one.
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- What's this one?
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- This is Doric.
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- That's definitely Carinthian.
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Okay.
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- Yeah, bravo.
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- Thank you very much, thank
you, thank you, thank you.
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I know a couple of things anyway.
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But you know what?
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It's such a beautiful town.
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I love this.
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And it's so quiet now,
everybody is sleeping
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so we better be quiet.
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- It's siesta time, yeah.
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So, we can talk but not shout.
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- Shh.
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- [Ronia] You see, this is what I meant.
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- [Peter] You can forgive
the old lady for being
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a little bit annoyed by us standing at
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the front of the house chatting.
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They get so many tourists
through here in summer
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and during the middle of the day,
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when locals are having a siesta,
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the last thing they need
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is my bellowing voice in the lane way.
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In my defence, I do have a
bit of industrial deafness
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and I was a touch excited.
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- She heard first.
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- She's gonna scream at us again.
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Centuries may have passed
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but it feels as though
little here has changed.
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It's still a quiet and peaceful island
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far off the tourist trail
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and free from many of the modern trappings
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that can sometimes take away from
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the authenticity of the place.
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So, Ronia, there's houses
below and there's houses above.
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What is the difference?
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- The village is built in three levels.
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The first level was for the poorest.
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- Right.
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- And the doors and the buildings
were very low buildings.
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- Right.
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- Now, we are on the second
level of this village
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and these buildings are
not connected inside.
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- Right.
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- It's a different property upstairs
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- Yep.
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- Different property downstairs.
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- And these were wealthy people?
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- Richer, yes.
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Because there is also a third level.
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- Oh right, where's the third level?
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- (laughs) it's hidden.
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- Okay, all right.
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- Because we had to protect
the village, you know?
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- Oh, okay, righto.
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So, I can see along here,
all the houses are joined.
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It's like a wall of the castle.
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Is that the wall of the castle?
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Because this is not a traditional castle.
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Every castle I see does
not look white, you know?
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- Exactly, and people come here and ask,
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where is castle?
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Where is the castle?
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- Yeah, yeah, we're in it.
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- Where is the castle?
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We came to see the castle.
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But, actually, the village
is built like a castle
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with buildings very close to each other
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like creating the outside wall.
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And this is what we can see.
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Buildings like, as you
said, the outer wall.
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- [Peter] What period
are we talking about?
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- [Ronia] Venetians built this village.
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- [Peter] Right.
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- And we had Venetians on
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the island from 1210 to 1620.
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- [Peter] Wow.
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(soothing bouzouki music)
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Wow, unbelievable eh?
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This is a fantastic example
of what's essentially
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a fortified town.
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It was built to deter invaders
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and it stood the test of time.
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Not even a constant
battering from mother nature
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has brought about its demise.
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(upbeat bouzouki music)
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At the heart of Sifnos is
the capital, Apollonia.
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It's actually a collection of villages,
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that over the years,
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have grown and melded into the one town.
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The other settlements are
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Exambela, Actimonda, Ano
Petali and Cato Petali.
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Which are all now suburbs
of the greater township.
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They were built amongst, what was once,
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thriving agricultural land.
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The ancient terraces
running down the hillsides
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are a testament to this past.
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Today it's a convenient
place to base yourself
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as the beaches are nearby
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and there are plenty of quaint villages
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in the surrounding mountains.
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It's here you find a lot
of the islands hotels,
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restaurants and nightlife.
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It's also home to Tselementes.
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A name that's synonymous
with Greek cooking.
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We're meeting with Giorgos Tselementes,
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the grandson of the most
important chef in Greek history
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and he's also a chef.
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When I was growing up,
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every Greek household had two books.
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One was the Bible and the other was,
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the equivalent, in terms of cookery.
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Every kitchen had a copy of
Nicholas Tselamendez cook book.
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He's, arguably, the most influential chef
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to have come from Greece
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and his recipes have shaped
contemporary Grecian cuisine.
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He essentially put a French spin on things
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and it was adored by Greek housewives.
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So this is a very rare book.
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And he talks about, not only recipes, but.
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- [Giorgos] Nothing more, only recipes.
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Even inside, how to set the table,
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how to speak, where do they
sit people in your house.
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So, everything.
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- About nutrition.
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- Yes.
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- About cooking utensils.
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00:09:10,520 --> 00:09:13,480
It's basically become, now,
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the guide for all Greek housewives on,
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00:09:18,640 --> 00:09:19,800
not just recipes,
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but how to conduct
themselves in the kitchen
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and at the dining table.
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And, basically, from paddock to plate.
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So, it's a very rare book.
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I Think we better put it to
one side don't you think?
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- Okay.
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- Okay, let's put it
aside and get started.
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Giorgos has released a
cook book of his own.
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It updates his grandfathers work
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for today's more health
conscious community.
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For example, he uses less frying
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and sunflower oil in place of butter.
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His rationale is that,
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we're less active than back in the days
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when we worked the fields.
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So we therefor need less fat in our diets.
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- [Giorgos] And we put a little bit.
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- [Peter] Now, obviously,
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we're not explaining how
the mince meat was prepared
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00:09:54,800 --> 00:09:56,720
but you need to go to the
cookbook to have a look at that.
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You can either go to
the original Tselemendes
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or you can go to his grandsons cook book.
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This is the actual,
most traditional recipe
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that the world knows of Greece, moussaka.
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And yet, there are so many
better recipes as well
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but I love this stuff.
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- If our eggplant is bitter
we can put a little sugar.
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- Only the good, Greek, sugar though.
265
00:10:19,320 --> 00:10:22,640
The stuff, it's natural.
266
00:10:22,640 --> 00:10:25,320
- Honestly I use sugar all the time.
267
00:10:25,320 --> 00:10:26,160
- You do?
268
00:10:26,160 --> 00:10:27,000
- Yes.
269
00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:28,240
- Well I know plenty of
chefs that use sugar.
270
00:10:28,240 --> 00:10:30,280
My wife is not one of
them, I can tell you.
271
00:10:30,280 --> 00:10:32,280
Helen, I hope you're not watching this.
272
00:10:32,280 --> 00:10:33,320
So, after the minced meat,
273
00:10:33,320 --> 00:10:34,320
we put another row of?
274
00:10:34,320 --> 00:10:35,680
- [Giorgos] Eggplant.
275
00:10:35,680 --> 00:10:36,520
- [Peter] Of eggplant,
melitzána as we say.
276
00:10:36,520 --> 00:10:37,920
- [Giorgos] Mm-hm (affirmative).
277
00:10:37,920 --> 00:10:39,840
- [Peter] And this smells so good man.
278
00:10:39,840 --> 00:10:41,200
This smells so good.
279
00:10:41,200 --> 00:10:42,880
- [Giorgos] Now we will put eggplant.
280
00:10:42,880 --> 00:10:44,040
- Another row of eggplant?
281
00:10:44,040 --> 00:10:46,120
This is like a triple sandwich isn't it?
282
00:10:47,640 --> 00:10:49,360
I used to watch my mother make this
283
00:10:51,240 --> 00:10:54,240
and it was part of the
digestive process for me
284
00:10:54,240 --> 00:10:58,200
because I was juicing up all the enzymes
285
00:10:58,200 --> 00:11:00,080
and saliva working up just watching this
286
00:11:00,080 --> 00:11:01,840
and that's happening right now.
287
00:11:01,840 --> 00:11:04,360
With not just me but with
a few people in the room.
288
00:11:06,520 --> 00:11:08,520
Next, goes in the bechamel sauce,
289
00:11:08,520 --> 00:11:10,120
a foundation of French cooking
290
00:11:10,120 --> 00:11:13,080
that's the defining element
of this famous Greek dish.
291
00:11:13,080 --> 00:11:14,880
Now the traditionalists are gonna say,
292
00:11:14,880 --> 00:11:16,480
why is he putting in sunflower oil?
293
00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:18,920
Well, we've already
explained that to you, okay?
294
00:11:18,920 --> 00:11:20,000
This is 21st century,
295
00:11:20,000 --> 00:11:22,360
for the guys that sit on
their bum all the time.
296
00:11:22,360 --> 00:11:23,480
But if you don't sit on your bum,
297
00:11:23,480 --> 00:11:24,560
well, you'll be fine.
298
00:11:24,560 --> 00:11:26,240
You'll be able to give it butter.
299
00:11:27,520 --> 00:11:28,760
Early in the 20th century,
300
00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:31,120
Greece was still in
the culinary dark ages.
301
00:11:31,120 --> 00:11:32,320
That's a bit harsh.
302
00:11:32,320 --> 00:11:35,040
But what I mean is, that the
food was very provincial.
303
00:11:35,040 --> 00:11:37,280
Using simple ingredients
that could be grown
304
00:11:37,280 --> 00:11:38,760
or harvested from the sea
305
00:11:38,760 --> 00:11:40,840
and eaten with minimal preparation.
306
00:11:40,840 --> 00:11:42,840
Don't get me wrong, it can be delicious
307
00:11:42,840 --> 00:11:45,480
but Tselemendes added some European flair.
308
00:11:46,360 --> 00:11:48,160
This took Greek food to the world
309
00:11:48,160 --> 00:11:49,800
and revolutionised peoples attitudes
310
00:11:49,800 --> 00:11:51,800
towards home cooking in Greece.
311
00:11:51,800 --> 00:11:54,480
The downside was, dishes
were less healthy.
312
00:11:54,480 --> 00:11:56,400
But hey, if you're like me,
313
00:11:56,400 --> 00:11:58,680
flavour and taste are subconscious winners
314
00:11:58,680 --> 00:12:01,560
over the though of
inches around the waist.
315
00:12:01,560 --> 00:12:02,800
We grate the nutmeg in there?
316
00:12:02,800 --> 00:12:03,640
Okay.
317
00:12:05,600 --> 00:12:07,800
- [Giorgos] For many, this
is the most important.
318
00:12:07,800 --> 00:12:09,280
- [Peter] Is that right?
319
00:12:09,280 --> 00:12:12,160
That little thing, that
little bit of nutmeg?
320
00:12:12,160 --> 00:12:13,320
Ah, wow.
321
00:12:13,320 --> 00:12:16,120
And that's the smallest
grater in the world.
322
00:12:16,120 --> 00:12:16,960
Wow.
323
00:12:18,120 --> 00:12:19,400
Being surrounded by food
324
00:12:19,400 --> 00:12:21,800
and air that was thing
with amazing fragrances
325
00:12:21,800 --> 00:12:23,320
only made me hungrier.
326
00:12:23,320 --> 00:12:26,080
The sooner it's in the oven,
the sooner we'll be eating it.
327
00:12:26,080 --> 00:12:28,520
But works of art do take
a little time to create.
328
00:12:29,360 --> 00:12:32,440
Ah, wow, you don't even need a utensil.
329
00:12:32,440 --> 00:12:33,400
You just pour it on top.
330
00:12:33,400 --> 00:12:34,240
He's a chef, man.
331
00:12:34,240 --> 00:12:35,560
He's the man, look at this.
332
00:12:35,560 --> 00:12:36,480
Look at the colour.
333
00:12:36,480 --> 00:12:38,560
I love the textures.
334
00:12:38,560 --> 00:12:39,840
Obviously not too much.
335
00:12:39,840 --> 00:12:40,920
- [Giorgos] Not too much.
336
00:12:40,920 --> 00:12:42,520
- [Peter] Enough to let
it get a bit of colour.
337
00:12:42,520 --> 00:12:43,360
- [Giorgos] Yes.
338
00:12:43,360 --> 00:12:45,280
And there we will put butter.
339
00:12:45,280 --> 00:12:46,480
The essence of butter everywhere.
340
00:12:46,480 --> 00:12:47,320
- Ah, right, okay.
341
00:12:47,320 --> 00:12:48,880
With the magic of television,
342
00:12:48,880 --> 00:12:51,880
we have the final masterpiece
ready to be devoured.
343
00:12:51,880 --> 00:12:55,520
When it comes to food,
patience isn't my strong point.
344
00:12:55,520 --> 00:12:58,000
I didn't even give it time to cool down.
345
00:12:58,000 --> 00:12:59,160
- We cut a little later,
346
00:12:59,160 --> 00:13:01,520
everyone will have to leave 10, 15 minutes
347
00:13:01,520 --> 00:13:04,560
and after the cut, that's
why little bits are.
348
00:13:04,560 --> 00:13:06,520
- That's okay, I'm
starved, I'm gonna eat it
349
00:13:06,520 --> 00:13:09,920
because it looks too good
and smells fantastic.
350
00:13:09,920 --> 00:13:11,520
I tell ya.
351
00:13:11,520 --> 00:13:13,080
The big test, the big test.
352
00:13:13,080 --> 00:13:14,320
- The big test.
353
00:13:20,000 --> 00:13:21,800
- That's fantastic, that's really good.
354
00:13:21,800 --> 00:13:26,640
And the difference whether
it's with oil or butter.
355
00:13:26,640 --> 00:13:28,000
There's no big difference
at the end of the day.
356
00:13:28,000 --> 00:13:29,800
You can't tell, nobody could tell.
357
00:13:29,800 --> 00:13:31,240
- No
358
00:13:31,240 --> 00:13:33,040
(both speak in foreign language)
359
00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:36,000
- You're a gun mate,
you're a modern day chef.
360
00:13:36,000 --> 00:13:38,600
21st century moussaka
chef, everything chef.
361
00:13:38,600 --> 00:13:39,400
Good on ya mate.
362
00:13:39,400 --> 00:13:40,240
- Thank you.
363
00:13:41,880 --> 00:13:43,040
- And the wine's good.
364
00:13:43,040 --> 00:13:46,040
I gotta keep going, this is so good.
365
00:13:49,800 --> 00:13:51,120
Many young Greeks probably have
366
00:13:51,120 --> 00:13:53,240
no idea who the genius
was behind much of the,
367
00:13:53,240 --> 00:13:55,800
now, traditional food they eat today.
368
00:13:55,800 --> 00:13:58,040
They've got Nicholas Telementes for it
369
00:13:58,040 --> 00:14:00,000
and now Giorgos continues that legacy.
370
00:14:03,800 --> 00:14:06,760
You know, Giorgos, my mother,
371
00:14:06,760 --> 00:14:09,600
if she was alive, she would be
so proud to be here right now
372
00:14:09,600 --> 00:14:13,560
because your grandfather, your lineage,
373
00:14:13,560 --> 00:14:15,920
changed her life and changed the life of
374
00:14:16,840 --> 00:14:18,600
all Greek women around the world.
375
00:14:19,800 --> 00:14:20,640
It's fantastic mate.
376
00:14:20,640 --> 00:14:22,480
And you're part of that
and you're still doing it.
377
00:14:22,480 --> 00:14:25,000
You're still a visionary.
378
00:14:25,000 --> 00:14:25,840
Moving ahead.
379
00:14:25,840 --> 00:14:28,400
It's in the DNA, it's in there mate.
380
00:14:28,400 --> 00:14:29,400
Good on you buddy.
381
00:14:29,400 --> 00:14:30,200
You're a gentleman mate.
382
00:14:30,200 --> 00:14:31,560
Thank you very much.
383
00:14:31,560 --> 00:14:33,280
Let's keep going, this is good.
384
00:14:35,840 --> 00:14:36,680
So good.
385
00:14:43,560 --> 00:14:46,040
I think we can cut now
because I want another piece.
386
00:14:46,040 --> 00:14:46,880
Okay?
387
00:14:46,880 --> 00:14:49,200
Don't let anyone know, okay?
388
00:14:54,640 --> 00:14:57,960
(upbeat bouzouki music)
389
00:15:07,760 --> 00:15:09,640
- [Peter] The iconic
image of a white windmill
390
00:15:09,640 --> 00:15:11,320
is synonymous with the Cyclads.
391
00:15:11,320 --> 00:15:13,360
It dates back hundreds of years.
392
00:15:13,360 --> 00:15:16,400
However, the history of
Sifnos is far greater
393
00:15:16,400 --> 00:15:19,240
and some of the remnants
of this past are terraces.
394
00:15:19,240 --> 00:15:20,600
They cover the whole island
395
00:15:20,600 --> 00:15:22,960
and many are still in use today.
396
00:15:22,960 --> 00:15:25,760
In some places it looks
like an open cut mine
397
00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:27,400
with terraces stepping down the mountain
398
00:15:27,400 --> 00:15:28,960
from summit to valley floor.
399
00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:32,760
Building these by hand
would've taken centuries.
400
00:15:32,760 --> 00:15:36,080
Every generation of farmers
would add more to the hillside.
401
00:15:36,080 --> 00:15:37,800
Increasing the arable land where
402
00:15:37,800 --> 00:15:40,200
they could then sew their crops.
403
00:15:40,200 --> 00:15:41,600
It was necessary in order for them
404
00:15:41,600 --> 00:15:43,720
to be able to grow
enough to feed themselves
405
00:15:43,720 --> 00:15:46,000
and trade with passing merchants.
406
00:15:46,000 --> 00:15:48,560
In time, thanks to industrialization,
407
00:15:48,560 --> 00:15:50,600
the need for local produce reduced
408
00:15:50,600 --> 00:15:52,560
and they became largely abandoned.
409
00:15:53,920 --> 00:15:56,000
Those still used today are maintained
410
00:15:56,000 --> 00:15:58,200
while others slowly deteriorate.
411
00:15:58,200 --> 00:16:00,080
However, the most fascinating ruins
412
00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:01,160
I came across on the island
413
00:16:01,160 --> 00:16:04,920
were the 76 towers
dotted around the coast.
414
00:16:04,920 --> 00:16:07,720
Centuries of weathering and
being pilfered for materials
415
00:16:07,720 --> 00:16:09,800
have seen some become, almost invisible
416
00:16:09,800 --> 00:16:11,040
to the untrained eye.
417
00:16:11,040 --> 00:16:13,640
Others though, are
almost completely intact.
418
00:16:22,280 --> 00:16:27,280
This is one of 76 known watchtowers
on the island of Sifnos.
419
00:16:28,640 --> 00:16:30,680
Built in the fifth century BC.
420
00:16:30,680 --> 00:16:33,560
Just look at the size of the stones.
421
00:16:33,560 --> 00:16:36,400
These watchtowers had a specific use.
422
00:16:36,400 --> 00:16:38,240
Each watchtower could
see another watchtower
423
00:16:38,240 --> 00:16:40,040
and it was a way of
communicating to protect
424
00:16:40,040 --> 00:16:43,360
the gold and silver
mines that they had here.
425
00:16:44,320 --> 00:16:47,760
Popular mythology also says
that they use these towers,
426
00:16:47,760 --> 00:16:49,920
amongst others in the Aegean,
427
00:16:49,920 --> 00:16:54,440
when Agamemnon in Troy
was coming back home.
428
00:16:54,440 --> 00:16:57,120
He actually signalled, using these towers,
429
00:16:57,120 --> 00:16:58,640
to his wife in Peloponnesus
430
00:16:59,520 --> 00:17:01,800
to let her know he's coming home
431
00:17:01,800 --> 00:17:03,680
that happened in one night.
432
00:17:03,680 --> 00:17:05,120
Amazing.
433
00:17:05,120 --> 00:17:05,960
Check it out.
434
00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:09,080
It's heavy.
435
00:17:09,080 --> 00:17:12,440
(relaxing guitar music)
436
00:17:19,480 --> 00:17:20,320
Enormous.
437
00:17:25,200 --> 00:17:27,240
This one is called the black tower.
438
00:17:27,240 --> 00:17:29,440
Sounds like something
from Game of Thrones.
439
00:17:29,440 --> 00:17:31,920
It was built in the fifth century BC.
440
00:17:31,920 --> 00:17:34,440
Today it stands at over five metres
441
00:17:34,440 --> 00:17:36,680
wit a diameter close to 11 metres.
442
00:17:36,680 --> 00:17:39,680
Building it in modern times
would've been challenging enough
443
00:17:39,680 --> 00:17:42,000
let alone in an era before mechanisation.
444
00:17:44,320 --> 00:17:46,440
Man and beast would've
carted the huge stones
445
00:17:46,440 --> 00:17:47,720
from nearby quarries
446
00:17:47,720 --> 00:17:49,920
and engineers, using primitive tools,
447
00:17:49,920 --> 00:17:52,880
would've painstakingly
placed each one in position.
448
00:17:52,880 --> 00:17:55,120
Talk about an awesome feat of ingenuity.
449
00:17:59,840 --> 00:18:02,680
Back on the road, I continue
my drive around the island.
450
00:18:02,680 --> 00:18:04,920
Every corner revealed an amazing view
451
00:18:04,920 --> 00:18:06,800
of dramatic coastal scenery.
452
00:18:06,800 --> 00:18:09,880
It's a rugged landscape
with dry, rocky hills
453
00:18:09,880 --> 00:18:12,040
ending abruptly in a churning sea.
454
00:18:12,040 --> 00:18:15,320
The lack of quiet bays,
beaches and safe ports
455
00:18:15,320 --> 00:18:16,840
means there's little development.
456
00:18:16,840 --> 00:18:19,040
So the place is completely
devoid of people.
457
00:18:31,000 --> 00:18:33,200
Despite the small population
and size of the island,
458
00:18:33,200 --> 00:18:35,680
there's one thing Sifnos isn't short of
459
00:18:35,680 --> 00:18:36,960
and that's churches.
460
00:18:36,960 --> 00:18:39,520
You could visit a different
one each day of the year.
461
00:18:39,520 --> 00:18:42,000
Mind you, that's fairly
common across Greece.
462
00:18:45,760 --> 00:18:47,360
Reaching the south-east of Sifnos,
463
00:18:47,360 --> 00:18:49,680
you come across the most famous of them,
464
00:18:49,680 --> 00:18:50,680
Chrysopigi.
465
00:18:50,680 --> 00:18:52,640
It's famed, not only for its location,
466
00:18:52,640 --> 00:18:56,280
but the number of miracles
that have occurred there.
467
00:18:56,280 --> 00:18:58,280
Father Agathangelos has been at
468
00:18:58,280 --> 00:19:00,040
the monastery for ten years.
469
00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:01,440
He originally came from Crete
470
00:19:01,440 --> 00:19:03,440
but has fallen in love with the place.
471
00:19:03,440 --> 00:19:05,080
He believes the miracles occur thanks
472
00:19:05,080 --> 00:19:07,440
to the icon of the virgin
Mary housed inside.
473
00:19:09,480 --> 00:19:12,120
Tell me about one of the
miracles that you know.
474
00:19:12,120 --> 00:19:13,320
Tell me the story of the miracle.
475
00:19:13,320 --> 00:19:16,320
- Have a woman here, too sick, very sick.
476
00:19:16,320 --> 00:19:17,440
- [Peter] Yes.
477
00:19:17,440 --> 00:19:19,800
- And pray to the virgin Mary.
478
00:19:19,800 --> 00:19:22,960
After one week she was.
479
00:19:22,960 --> 00:19:24,520
- [Peter] She wasn't sick any more?
480
00:19:24,520 --> 00:19:25,360
- Yes.
481
00:19:25,360 --> 00:19:26,160
- [Peter] And this happens a lot?
482
00:19:26,160 --> 00:19:27,000
- Yes, here, yes.
483
00:19:27,000 --> 00:19:28,600
Every person here.
484
00:19:28,600 --> 00:19:29,400
- [Peter] Wow.
485
00:19:29,400 --> 00:19:31,320
- Have one story from the virgin Mary.
486
00:19:31,320 --> 00:19:32,960
The virgin Mary lived here,
487
00:19:32,960 --> 00:19:34,400
is working here
488
00:19:34,400 --> 00:19:35,240
to this island.
489
00:19:35,240 --> 00:19:37,000
- So, you told me you have a gymnasium.
490
00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:37,920
- Yes.
491
00:19:37,920 --> 00:19:39,600
- Do you train every day?
492
00:19:39,600 --> 00:19:40,440
- Every day.
493
00:19:40,440 --> 00:19:41,240
- Every day.
494
00:19:41,240 --> 00:19:42,080
Can we train together?
495
00:19:42,080 --> 00:19:44,000
- If you don't fret, yes, why not.
496
00:19:44,000 --> 00:19:46,120
- But maybe I might beat you in a gym.
497
00:19:46,120 --> 00:19:47,280
You think so?
498
00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:48,200
- Yes.
- Yeah?
499
00:19:48,200 --> 00:19:50,360
- If you like, let's go together.
500
00:19:50,360 --> 00:19:51,240
- We will go together.
501
00:19:51,240 --> 00:19:52,720
- But it's very difficult
for you, believe me.
502
00:19:52,720 --> 00:19:54,040
- Why's it difficult for me?
503
00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:55,520
- You are old man.
504
00:19:55,520 --> 00:19:58,120
- (laughs hysterically) an old man.
505
00:19:58,120 --> 00:19:58,960
I am an old man.
506
00:19:58,960 --> 00:20:01,080
- It's very difficult
for you if you play with.
507
00:20:01,080 --> 00:20:01,880
- But you're a young man?
508
00:20:01,880 --> 00:20:03,480
I'm 54, you must be 40.
509
00:20:03,480 --> 00:20:04,640
- I'm 51.
510
00:20:04,640 --> 00:20:05,600
- You're 51?
- Yes.
511
00:20:05,600 --> 00:20:07,480
- Come on, are you serious?
512
00:20:07,480 --> 00:20:08,800
Are you saying that for the camera?
513
00:20:08,800 --> 00:20:09,720
- Yes.
514
00:20:09,720 --> 00:20:10,560
- You're 51.
- Yes.
515
00:20:10,560 --> 00:20:12,360
- My understanding is, someone told me,
516
00:20:12,360 --> 00:20:13,280
you opened the gym
517
00:20:13,280 --> 00:20:15,040
and you've opened this gym to the public.
518
00:20:15,040 --> 00:20:15,880
- Yes.
519
00:20:18,440 --> 00:20:20,480
Before six years, to open the gym.
520
00:20:20,480 --> 00:20:21,320
- Yes.
521
00:20:21,320 --> 00:20:22,160
- For the boys.
- Yes.
522
00:20:22,160 --> 00:20:23,640
- For the persons.
523
00:20:23,640 --> 00:20:25,960
And really, I'm very happy
524
00:20:25,960 --> 00:20:28,480
because it start
525
00:20:28,480 --> 00:20:31,200
with 12, 13 persons
526
00:20:31,200 --> 00:20:33,120
and now it's come 100 persons.
527
00:20:33,120 --> 00:20:33,960
- [Peter] Wow.
528
00:20:33,960 --> 00:20:36,040
- In the summer, more than 200 persons
529
00:20:36,040 --> 00:20:37,760
every day go there to play.
530
00:20:37,760 --> 00:20:39,000
- [Peter] Wow.
- Yes.
531
00:20:39,000 --> 00:20:40,800
And the money give to the persons
532
00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:42,560
to starting English
533
00:20:42,560 --> 00:20:44,360
or university.
534
00:20:46,080 --> 00:20:48,160
I like, listen.
535
00:20:48,160 --> 00:20:51,160
If you like the god,
536
00:20:52,160 --> 00:20:52,960
okay,
537
00:20:53,960 --> 00:20:55,000
it's working for him.
538
00:20:55,840 --> 00:20:59,600
It's very important to
speak with big boys.
539
00:20:59,600 --> 00:21:00,440
- [Peter] Yes.
540
00:21:00,440 --> 00:21:01,520
- For the people who come to the church.
541
00:21:01,520 --> 00:21:02,960
- [Peter] Yes.
542
00:21:02,960 --> 00:21:04,400
- You know, many persons
do not come to church
543
00:21:04,400 --> 00:21:08,800
because think many things negative
544
00:21:08,800 --> 00:21:11,480
for the priest or for
the church or the money.
545
00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:12,880
For many things.
546
00:21:12,880 --> 00:21:13,720
- [Peter] Yes.
547
00:21:13,720 --> 00:21:14,960
- But is not though.
548
00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:15,760
- [Peter] But look at this.
549
00:21:15,760 --> 00:21:17,960
This big guy here.
550
00:21:17,960 --> 00:21:18,800
You're very strong.
551
00:21:18,800 --> 00:21:19,720
- I like, I like it.
552
00:21:19,720 --> 00:21:21,680
- [Peter] You work on arms,
shoulders, everything?
553
00:21:21,680 --> 00:21:22,520
- Everything.
554
00:21:22,520 --> 00:21:23,360
- [Peter] Everything?
555
00:21:23,360 --> 00:21:24,200
Legs and everything?
556
00:21:24,200 --> 00:21:25,040
- Everything.
557
00:21:25,040 --> 00:21:27,000
One, every day have one part.
558
00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:29,480
- [Peter] Yes, so, you do a
different part every single day.
559
00:21:29,480 --> 00:21:30,400
- Every day.
560
00:21:30,400 --> 00:21:32,600
- [Peter] We gotta go to
the gym together, okay?
561
00:21:32,600 --> 00:21:33,920
- Yes, why not?
562
00:21:33,920 --> 00:21:37,680
- Done, but I'm not an old
man, I'm not an old man.
563
00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:41,640
- If you make 100 pushups
every day, you are nothing.
564
00:21:41,640 --> 00:21:43,760
- (laughs)
565
00:21:43,760 --> 00:21:47,920
- After 500 pushups
make this time, call me.
566
00:21:47,920 --> 00:21:48,960
- You can't do 500.
567
00:21:48,960 --> 00:21:50,840
- This time come, I'm here.
568
00:21:50,840 --> 00:21:54,560
- (laughs) Okay, I think I've
got no hope with this guy.
569
00:21:54,560 --> 00:21:57,000
(both laugh)
570
00:21:57,960 --> 00:22:00,280
The church has been built on
the ruins of an older one.
571
00:22:00,280 --> 00:22:01,760
Constructed in 1650.
572
00:22:02,640 --> 00:22:05,400
It occupies a peninsula that's
split from the mainland.
573
00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:07,520
Legend has it, that a group
574
00:22:07,520 --> 00:22:10,000
of Sifniat women were
hiding from pirates there
575
00:22:10,000 --> 00:22:11,240
and through a miracle,
576
00:22:11,240 --> 00:22:12,280
(speaks foreign language)
577
00:22:12,280 --> 00:22:14,360
keeping them safe from invading pirates.
578
00:22:15,320 --> 00:22:18,040
Religious or not, it's
a great place to visit.
579
00:22:18,040 --> 00:22:19,600
Just make sure you've been exercising
580
00:22:19,600 --> 00:22:21,800
in case father Agathangelos challenges you
581
00:22:21,800 --> 00:22:22,640
to some pushups.
582
00:22:23,840 --> 00:22:27,360
(pleasant bouzouki music)
583
00:22:53,800 --> 00:22:54,920
- [Ronia] Are you okay?
584
00:22:54,920 --> 00:22:59,200
- [Peter] (speaks foreign language)
585
00:22:59,200 --> 00:23:02,520
- [Ronia] Now, it starts
like that but this is the.
586
00:23:02,520 --> 00:23:04,040
- [Peter] This is like a goat trail.
587
00:23:04,040 --> 00:23:06,960
- [Ronia] (laughs)
588
00:23:08,640 --> 00:23:09,480
- [Peter] Look at that.
589
00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:10,480
It's beautiful, eh?
590
00:23:12,000 --> 00:23:12,880
I love this.
591
00:23:21,240 --> 00:23:22,240
Ronia.
- Yes?
592
00:23:22,240 --> 00:23:24,960
- Why do they call this trail.
593
00:23:24,960 --> 00:23:29,200
Why do they call it the
eternal capitals trail?
594
00:23:29,200 --> 00:23:31,680
I don't understand, why?
595
00:23:31,680 --> 00:23:34,200
- We gave different names to our trails.
596
00:23:34,200 --> 00:23:35,000
- Yes.
597
00:23:35,000 --> 00:23:37,400
- Just to help people who use this up.
598
00:23:38,440 --> 00:23:40,680
This name is because
599
00:23:40,680 --> 00:23:42,600
if you do all this route,
600
00:23:42,600 --> 00:23:44,680
which is more than eight kilometres,
601
00:23:45,880 --> 00:23:50,480
you have seen all the very
old places on the island.
602
00:23:51,360 --> 00:23:53,760
The Kastro, the old capital.
603
00:23:53,760 --> 00:23:57,040
The top of the hill with
an ancient acropolis
604
00:23:57,040 --> 00:23:59,080
and many historical monuments.
605
00:23:59,080 --> 00:24:01,400
- So, listen, I trust you
but can I check the app.
606
00:24:01,400 --> 00:24:03,360
I wanna check the Sifnos
app and make sure.
607
00:24:03,360 --> 00:24:04,200
- Yes, please.
608
00:24:04,200 --> 00:24:06,040
- Make sure we're going in
the right direction, you know?
609
00:24:06,040 --> 00:24:07,360
Because you may be taking
me in the wrong direction.
610
00:24:07,360 --> 00:24:08,200
You know?
611
00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:09,040
- No.
612
00:24:09,880 --> 00:24:11,840
The reason to check an app is not
613
00:24:11,840 --> 00:24:14,600
because you are afraid
not to lose your way
614
00:24:14,600 --> 00:24:16,680
because there are signs everywhere.
615
00:24:16,680 --> 00:24:17,480
- Okay.
616
00:24:17,480 --> 00:24:18,480
Why do we use the app then?
617
00:24:18,480 --> 00:24:21,880
- So, even without me,
it's not easy to get lost.
618
00:24:21,880 --> 00:24:23,720
You have to try, to get lost.
619
00:24:23,720 --> 00:24:28,280
You can use this if you
want to learn something more
620
00:24:28,280 --> 00:24:29,680
because there are many photos
621
00:24:29,680 --> 00:24:31,880
and information also on this website.
622
00:24:31,880 --> 00:24:33,000
- Okay, well, let's keep going.
623
00:24:33,000 --> 00:24:34,000
This is great.
624
00:24:34,000 --> 00:24:35,760
I don't need the app, I've got you.
625
00:24:37,080 --> 00:24:38,320
You can tell me everything.
626
00:24:38,320 --> 00:24:40,560
- Without me, it's a very good guide.
627
00:24:42,760 --> 00:24:43,960
- I got it just in case.
628
00:24:47,600 --> 00:24:50,280
Ronia, might let you be boss all day.
629
00:24:50,280 --> 00:24:51,880
You can be boss all day.
630
00:24:51,880 --> 00:24:54,320
- [Ronia] I don't think you can do that.
631
00:24:54,320 --> 00:24:56,320
- [Peter] I reckon they
could try, I'll try.
632
00:24:59,240 --> 00:25:01,000
There's no better way to start the day
633
00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,000
than with a walk in the countryside.
634
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:05,520
A gentle breeze, amazing scenery,
635
00:25:05,520 --> 00:25:08,000
some exercise and a little
education along the way
636
00:25:08,000 --> 00:25:09,800
make for a complete package.
637
00:25:13,200 --> 00:25:14,720
I love these stairs, they're a regional.
638
00:25:14,720 --> 00:25:16,240
How old are they?
639
00:25:17,120 --> 00:25:18,840
- Ancient, BC.
- Ancient?
640
00:25:18,840 --> 00:25:19,760
- Yeah.
- Wow.
641
00:25:20,840 --> 00:25:23,920
- In the old times, people
built things to last forever.
642
00:25:23,920 --> 00:25:26,160
- Yeah, but we still do.
643
00:25:26,160 --> 00:25:28,000
I still do, I'm a builder.
644
00:25:28,000 --> 00:25:29,120
- Ah, maybe you do
645
00:25:29,120 --> 00:25:32,680
but I bet today's do
have an expiration date.
646
00:25:32,680 --> 00:25:33,520
- That's my competitors, that's not me,
647
00:25:33,520 --> 00:25:34,400
that's my competitors.
648
00:25:34,400 --> 00:25:35,800
After you.
649
00:25:35,800 --> 00:25:36,720
- [Ronia] I'm sure.
650
00:25:37,840 --> 00:25:38,680
- [Peter] You know, Ronia,
651
00:25:38,680 --> 00:25:39,960
these paths are actually quite easy
652
00:25:39,960 --> 00:25:42,080
because the treads.
653
00:25:42,080 --> 00:25:43,680
Look at the treads here,
654
00:25:43,680 --> 00:25:47,640
they're so long and the riser is so short.
655
00:25:47,640 --> 00:25:49,440
And that was for the donkeys.
656
00:25:49,440 --> 00:25:50,840
- [Ronia] For the donkeys.
657
00:25:50,840 --> 00:25:53,040
This is one main reason, for the donkeys.
658
00:25:53,040 --> 00:25:54,400
So they can walk.
659
00:25:54,400 --> 00:25:56,840
It's very hard for the donkeys to walk
660
00:25:56,840 --> 00:25:57,760
if there is nothing flat.
661
00:25:57,760 --> 00:25:59,280
- [Peter] That's right, that's right.
662
00:25:59,280 --> 00:26:02,120
- [Ronia] And it's a lot easier for humans
663
00:26:02,120 --> 00:26:03,560
because it's flat.
664
00:26:03,560 --> 00:26:05,640
It's not going up, its flat
665
00:26:05,640 --> 00:26:07,400
and then it's flat again
666
00:26:07,400 --> 00:26:08,840
and then it's flat again.
667
00:26:08,840 --> 00:26:10,240
- [Peter] So it's a gradual ascent.
668
00:26:10,240 --> 00:26:12,720
Yeah, it's beautiful, awesome.
669
00:26:12,720 --> 00:26:13,560
Easy for me.
670
00:26:14,600 --> 00:26:17,400
- [Ronia] There was a reason
for everything in the past.
671
00:26:25,840 --> 00:26:26,760
- [Peter] Oh, hang on Ronia.
672
00:26:26,760 --> 00:26:29,760
We've got Sage.
673
00:26:29,760 --> 00:26:30,600
- [Ronia] Exactly.
674
00:26:30,600 --> 00:26:32,480
- [Peter] My mother used to make me tea
675
00:26:32,480 --> 00:26:34,480
with this awesome stuff, it's beautiful.
676
00:26:35,360 --> 00:26:37,360
- [Ronia] You can drink
it, even like that.
677
00:26:37,360 --> 00:26:38,200
- [Peter] You can?
678
00:26:38,200 --> 00:26:39,640
- [Ronia] You boil water, you put it in.
679
00:26:39,640 --> 00:26:42,160
We drink it a lot, it's the local tea.
680
00:26:42,160 --> 00:26:43,040
- [Peter] Tea, yeah.
681
00:26:43,040 --> 00:26:44,080
- [Ronia] Exactly.
682
00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:47,360
And the nice breakfast rolls with Anis,
683
00:26:47,360 --> 00:26:50,520
Sage tea and (speaks foreign language).
684
00:26:50,520 --> 00:26:51,520
Let me show you
685
00:26:51,520 --> 00:26:54,800
because here you stopped and
we have many herbs around.
686
00:26:54,800 --> 00:26:56,080
This is Thyme.
687
00:26:57,320 --> 00:26:59,840
It's not very happy now because it's.
688
00:27:01,280 --> 00:27:02,360
It's very dry.
689
00:27:02,360 --> 00:27:03,240
- [Peter] Thyme.
690
00:27:03,240 --> 00:27:04,520
Oh, it's beautiful, yes.
691
00:27:04,520 --> 00:27:07,440
- [Ronia] But in July and August
692
00:27:07,440 --> 00:27:09,360
there are purple flowers.
693
00:27:09,360 --> 00:27:10,200
- [Peter] Yeah.
694
00:27:10,200 --> 00:27:11,040
- [Ronia] And it's beautiful.
695
00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:12,240
- [Peter] But I can
smell it, it's beautiful.
696
00:27:12,240 --> 00:27:13,120
You've got herbs everywhere.
697
00:27:13,120 --> 00:27:13,960
- [Ronia] Everywhere.
698
00:27:13,960 --> 00:27:14,960
Do you know this one?
699
00:27:14,960 --> 00:27:16,400
- [Peter] No, what is it?
700
00:27:16,400 --> 00:27:18,360
- [Ronia] There is something
you don't know, I'm glad.
701
00:27:18,360 --> 00:27:19,520
(both laugh)
702
00:27:19,520 --> 00:27:21,000
we call it Skino.
703
00:27:21,000 --> 00:27:23,960
We don't drink it or eat
it but it is anti-septic.
704
00:27:23,960 --> 00:27:26,880
We use it to wash the
barrels we put the wine in.
705
00:27:26,880 --> 00:27:27,720
- [Peter] Oh, right.
706
00:27:27,720 --> 00:27:28,800
Skino, I've got no idea what it is.
707
00:27:28,800 --> 00:27:30,120
Let's keep going.
708
00:27:30,120 --> 00:27:30,960
Skino.
709
00:27:30,960 --> 00:27:32,280
- [Ronia] Skino.
710
00:27:34,240 --> 00:27:36,480
(gate squeaks)
711
00:27:36,480 --> 00:27:37,320
- [Peter] Thanks.
712
00:27:39,160 --> 00:27:40,800
- [Ronia] We leave that
there, the way we find them.
713
00:27:40,800 --> 00:27:42,480
- [Peter] We have to,
of course, of course.
714
00:27:42,480 --> 00:27:43,880
- [Ronia] If it's open, open,
715
00:27:43,880 --> 00:27:45,320
if it's closed, closed.
716
00:27:45,320 --> 00:27:46,800
- This is beautiful.
717
00:27:46,800 --> 00:27:47,680
- Yeah.
718
00:27:47,680 --> 00:27:48,800
- Eh.
719
00:27:48,800 --> 00:27:49,880
It's so clean.
720
00:27:49,880 --> 00:27:51,960
It's like, this is Sifnos.
721
00:27:51,960 --> 00:27:53,720
- [Ronia] Everywhere is clean in Sifnos.
722
00:27:53,720 --> 00:27:55,280
- [Peter] Look at it.
723
00:27:55,280 --> 00:27:57,920
(chilled music)
724
00:28:04,800 --> 00:28:07,840
The people of Sifnos are very
proud of their little island.
725
00:28:07,840 --> 00:28:10,480
It may not have the
iconic landmarks of Athens
726
00:28:10,480 --> 00:28:12,880
or the fame and popularity of Santorini
727
00:28:12,880 --> 00:28:15,400
but it has its own unique charm.
728
00:28:15,400 --> 00:28:18,040
It's clean, accessible, welcoming
729
00:28:18,040 --> 00:28:20,320
and has plenty for visitors to see and do.
730
00:28:20,320 --> 00:28:22,120
What it does lack are Creeats,
731
00:28:22,120 --> 00:28:23,240
which is a good thing.
732
00:28:23,240 --> 00:28:26,000
You can hike all day long
and barely see a soul.
733
00:28:26,000 --> 00:28:28,080
Or you can find a beach or hidden cove
734
00:28:28,080 --> 00:28:30,080
and spend your time relaxing in the sun
735
00:28:30,080 --> 00:28:32,800
without anyone pulling
up a deck chair nearby.
736
00:28:32,800 --> 00:28:35,080
In my opinion, to get
the most out of Sifnos,
737
00:28:35,080 --> 00:28:36,880
the more adventurous and independent
738
00:28:36,880 --> 00:28:38,720
a traveller you are, the better.
739
00:28:38,720 --> 00:28:40,360
It's a place you have to discover.
740
00:28:40,360 --> 00:28:42,240
Primarily, under your own steam.
741
00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:48,080
So, Ronia, this is a beautiful path.
742
00:28:48,080 --> 00:28:50,040
How many paths do you have?
743
00:28:50,040 --> 00:28:54,480
- We have 19 signed roads and
744
00:28:55,840 --> 00:28:57,640
about 100 kilometres.
745
00:28:57,640 --> 00:29:00,040
- Wow, a hundred kilometres
of marked trails?
746
00:29:00,040 --> 00:29:01,120
- Exactly.
747
00:29:01,120 --> 00:29:01,920
- Wow.
748
00:29:01,920 --> 00:29:03,680
- And we have a hundred unmarked.
749
00:29:03,680 --> 00:29:05,240
- A hundred unmarked?
750
00:29:05,240 --> 00:29:06,040
- Unmarked.
751
00:29:06,040 --> 00:29:07,080
- You can see it on the app.
752
00:29:07,080 --> 00:29:08,360
It's a beautiful walk.
753
00:29:09,240 --> 00:29:10,080
It's beautiful.
754
00:29:20,800 --> 00:29:22,520
There are trails all over the island
755
00:29:22,520 --> 00:29:23,560
from top to bottom
756
00:29:23,560 --> 00:29:24,680
and across the middle.
757
00:29:24,680 --> 00:29:26,720
They vary in distance and challenge
758
00:29:26,720 --> 00:29:28,560
so, whatever your level of fitness,
759
00:29:28,560 --> 00:29:30,920
you'll be able to find
something that suits you.
760
00:29:30,920 --> 00:29:32,200
One thing they all have in common
761
00:29:32,200 --> 00:29:34,080
is fantastic views.
762
00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:36,000
If it's not a coastal
scene you're enjoying,
763
00:29:36,000 --> 00:29:38,160
it'll be a vista across rolling hills
764
00:29:38,160 --> 00:29:40,320
or a series of ancient ruins.
765
00:29:40,320 --> 00:29:41,200
The best thing is,
766
00:29:41,200 --> 00:29:43,320
you don't need a map or a personal guide
767
00:29:43,320 --> 00:29:45,840
because they've made their
own Sifnos trails app
768
00:29:45,840 --> 00:29:47,600
that has all the details you need.
769
00:29:47,600 --> 00:29:49,440
Mind you, I still like to have
770
00:29:49,440 --> 00:29:51,760
an old school, printed map in my pocket.
771
00:29:51,760 --> 00:29:53,800
Just in case the phone battery goes flat.
772
00:29:54,800 --> 00:29:57,480
(chilled music)
773
00:30:05,360 --> 00:30:08,680
(upbeat bouzouki music)
774
00:30:19,160 --> 00:30:20,640
- [Peter] After spending
the day travelling around
775
00:30:20,640 --> 00:30:22,400
the more remote parts of Sifnos,
776
00:30:22,400 --> 00:30:24,480
I made my way back to civilization.
777
00:30:24,480 --> 00:30:26,880
Realistically, it's such a small island
778
00:30:26,880 --> 00:30:29,160
that you're never really
that far from a town.
779
00:30:29,160 --> 00:30:30,320
The towns themselves
780
00:30:30,320 --> 00:30:32,640
are all sleepy, little seaside settlements
781
00:30:32,640 --> 00:30:34,040
where Yachti's spend their days,
782
00:30:34,040 --> 00:30:35,960
bobbing about in the safety of port.
783
00:30:35,960 --> 00:30:38,040
Of a morning, the only sounds you hear
784
00:30:38,040 --> 00:30:39,320
are the lapping of water
785
00:30:39,320 --> 00:30:40,320
and the occasional splash
786
00:30:40,320 --> 00:30:42,880
from someone diving in
for their daily swim.
787
00:30:42,880 --> 00:30:45,280
Things liven up a little
as the day progresses.
788
00:30:45,280 --> 00:30:47,600
Tourists and locals
rise from their slumber
789
00:30:47,600 --> 00:30:50,040
and start heading to the
cafes around mid morning
790
00:30:50,040 --> 00:30:51,120
for breakfast.
791
00:30:51,120 --> 00:30:52,720
From there it's beach time.
792
00:30:52,720 --> 00:30:54,960
This usually involves a bit of a walk,
793
00:30:54,960 --> 00:30:56,520
some wading in the shallows
794
00:30:56,520 --> 00:30:57,840
and then sitting on the sand
795
00:30:57,840 --> 00:31:00,040
or a deck chair for an hour or so.
796
00:31:00,040 --> 00:31:01,400
Next stop is lunch,
797
00:31:01,400 --> 00:31:03,480
which for Greeks, is the
biggest meal of the day
798
00:31:03,480 --> 00:31:05,920
and usually blurs into the afternoon.
799
00:31:05,920 --> 00:31:08,160
After that, it's time for a nap
800
00:31:08,160 --> 00:31:11,320
followed by a beach
session until the sun sets.
801
00:31:11,320 --> 00:31:13,160
Then, once again, it's
back into the tavern
802
00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:14,600
for the final meal of the day.
803
00:31:14,600 --> 00:31:16,200
Starting at around 9:00 p.m.
804
00:31:16,200 --> 00:31:18,040
This last sitting can take a few hours
805
00:31:18,040 --> 00:31:20,320
because it's as much about socialising
806
00:31:20,320 --> 00:31:22,080
as it is about eating.
807
00:31:22,080 --> 00:31:24,760
On this day, I skipped the
post breakfast beach visit
808
00:31:24,760 --> 00:31:26,440
and instead met with a local,
809
00:31:26,440 --> 00:31:28,960
Leonidas Dimitriads Evgenides.
810
00:31:28,960 --> 00:31:31,200
He's from one of Greece's
wealthiest shipping families,
811
00:31:31,200 --> 00:31:32,440
yet, despite his success,
812
00:31:32,440 --> 00:31:34,200
he continues working hard.
813
00:31:34,200 --> 00:31:36,000
Not only for his business
but for the betterment
814
00:31:36,000 --> 00:31:38,040
of the people of Greece
815
00:31:38,040 --> 00:31:39,800
and the island he calls home.
816
00:31:39,800 --> 00:31:42,040
What drives you to work so hard,
817
00:31:42,040 --> 00:31:43,880
to spend the hours that
you do doing what you do?
818
00:31:43,880 --> 00:31:45,560
You could sit back and do nothing.
819
00:31:46,720 --> 00:31:47,520
- It's about
820
00:31:48,600 --> 00:31:50,480
how someone's brought up.
821
00:31:50,480 --> 00:31:53,200
It is the feeling that
nothing belong to us.
822
00:31:53,200 --> 00:31:54,920
We're administrators.
823
00:31:54,920 --> 00:31:57,480
Is the responsibility for the generation
824
00:31:57,480 --> 00:32:00,800
to create and pass something, if possible,
825
00:32:00,800 --> 00:32:04,080
more from its qualitative
aspect to another generation.
826
00:32:04,080 --> 00:32:06,360
So, it's there and this
is the joy of life.
827
00:32:06,360 --> 00:32:08,280
The joy of life is
828
00:32:08,280 --> 00:32:11,120
(speaks foreign language)
829
00:32:11,120 --> 00:32:13,920
have said is, whatever I do,
830
00:32:13,920 --> 00:32:17,280
I do it for the next generation to come.
831
00:32:17,280 --> 00:32:20,960
- We only have a short
amount of time in this world
832
00:32:20,960 --> 00:32:23,480
and we wanna do a lot of things.
833
00:32:23,480 --> 00:32:27,200
What is the one thing that
you wanna leave behind
834
00:32:27,200 --> 00:32:29,240
and possibly be remembered by?
835
00:32:29,240 --> 00:32:31,000
But I know you're not gonna
say, I don't wanna be remembered
836
00:32:31,000 --> 00:32:32,680
because you're an introvert
837
00:32:32,680 --> 00:32:35,240
but what is the one thing
you wanna leave behind?
838
00:32:35,240 --> 00:32:40,200
- All human beings will have
to leave something behind us
839
00:32:40,200 --> 00:32:42,840
and if I had a wish,
840
00:32:42,840 --> 00:32:45,720
not only for me but
for anybody who belongs
841
00:32:45,720 --> 00:32:47,640
to my generation,
842
00:32:47,640 --> 00:32:52,560
is to give out experience
to the young generation
843
00:32:52,560 --> 00:32:57,000
so, for them, to be in a position to heal,
844
00:32:57,000 --> 00:32:59,840
as soon as possible, the
damage that our generation
845
00:32:59,840 --> 00:33:01,080
did to our country.
846
00:33:01,080 --> 00:33:03,480
- [Peter] Wow, that's a major legacy,
847
00:33:03,480 --> 00:33:05,680
I can see what you do
848
00:33:05,680 --> 00:33:08,920
and what a lot of others are
doing, is doing that healing
849
00:33:08,920 --> 00:33:09,960
you can definitely see it.
850
00:33:09,960 --> 00:33:12,480
Because you've gone
through a difficult period.
851
00:33:12,480 --> 00:33:14,520
Tell me a little about that damage that,
852
00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:16,120
you think, your generation has done.
853
00:33:16,120 --> 00:33:19,000
I, sort of, understand
it but many people don't.
854
00:33:19,000 --> 00:33:20,680
What do you think it was?
855
00:33:20,680 --> 00:33:22,160
What was it?
856
00:33:22,160 --> 00:33:23,280
- It was a period.
857
00:33:26,360 --> 00:33:31,200
We were the middle of the
globalisation ultimacy,
858
00:33:31,200 --> 00:33:33,200
where things happen the right direction,
859
00:33:33,200 --> 00:33:34,720
the wrong way.
860
00:33:34,720 --> 00:33:38,040
So, for a long period of time
861
00:33:38,040 --> 00:33:39,920
things that were too easy.
862
00:33:39,920 --> 00:33:41,120
So, there was much more
863
00:33:41,120 --> 00:33:43,440
to spend than leave unless to create.
864
00:33:43,440 --> 00:33:46,440
Whereas, Sifnos, we enjoy today what,
865
00:33:46,440 --> 00:33:48,800
thousands of year,
people who've had worked
866
00:33:48,800 --> 00:33:50,560
and with their life, they created.
867
00:33:50,560 --> 00:33:51,760
Their legacy.
868
00:33:51,760 --> 00:33:53,440
That was their inheritance.
869
00:33:53,440 --> 00:33:54,640
So, we're spenders.
870
00:33:54,640 --> 00:33:57,120
So, from spenders, we
have to become producers.
871
00:33:57,120 --> 00:34:00,400
And only, you can do that,
by heart, mind and soul.
872
00:34:00,400 --> 00:34:01,360
- [Peter] Do you think it's working?
873
00:34:01,360 --> 00:34:02,200
I mean.
874
00:34:03,920 --> 00:34:05,720
- Yes, for the new
generation, I see it working.
875
00:34:05,720 --> 00:34:06,560
- [Peter] Yeah.
876
00:34:07,640 --> 00:34:09,040
- I think it's very difficult.
877
00:34:09,040 --> 00:34:11,520
You cannot teach an old dog new tricks.
878
00:34:11,520 --> 00:34:13,600
So, there's a generation which, perhaps,
879
00:34:13,600 --> 00:34:16,680
is not only the generations fault itself.
880
00:34:16,680 --> 00:34:18,640
It has to do with our parents
881
00:34:18,640 --> 00:34:20,800
who were brought up during world wars,
882
00:34:20,800 --> 00:34:22,360
civil wars, catastrophes,
883
00:34:22,360 --> 00:34:26,280
so, they wanted to make a
better and decent life for us.
884
00:34:26,280 --> 00:34:29,400
So, we're much more enjoy the rights
885
00:34:29,400 --> 00:34:32,760
and we're feeling a little
less, our obligations.
886
00:34:32,760 --> 00:34:34,200
- [Peter] So, some of these young people
887
00:34:34,200 --> 00:34:36,240
that are in there
twenties, here in Greece,
888
00:34:36,240 --> 00:34:41,240
that haven't seen the difficult times.
889
00:34:42,360 --> 00:34:43,440
What do you say to them?
890
00:34:43,440 --> 00:34:45,040
What do you say to the
young Greeks out there?
891
00:34:45,040 --> 00:34:46,360
Because you're connected.
892
00:34:46,360 --> 00:34:48,520
- I don't say anything to them
893
00:34:48,520 --> 00:34:50,560
because these people, they are conscious
894
00:34:50,560 --> 00:34:53,520
and they understand, themselves,
they have to work hard
895
00:34:53,520 --> 00:34:56,680
and I honestly believe that
it's very important that
896
00:34:56,680 --> 00:34:58,800
the people who try, also to try in Greece
897
00:34:58,800 --> 00:35:00,560
because otherwise it's a pity for
898
00:35:00,560 --> 00:35:02,360
a country with a brain drain,
899
00:35:02,360 --> 00:35:04,440
to lose the best of a generation.
900
00:35:04,440 --> 00:35:08,200
Then their cooperation is
very slow and very difficult.
901
00:35:08,200 --> 00:35:10,960
So, yes, we're global citizens
902
00:35:10,960 --> 00:35:13,280
but it's important that a good part
903
00:35:13,280 --> 00:35:14,440
of the promising
904
00:35:14,440 --> 00:35:16,280
and there's a place and space
905
00:35:16,280 --> 00:35:18,080
for everybody to work in Greece.
906
00:35:18,080 --> 00:35:19,600
A remaining Greece for Greece.
907
00:35:23,840 --> 00:35:25,560
- [Peter] It might be a beautiful place
908
00:35:25,560 --> 00:35:27,560
but behind the picturesque setting lies
909
00:35:27,560 --> 00:35:29,960
a challenging reality for locals.
910
00:35:29,960 --> 00:35:31,640
The brain drain that's happening in Greece
911
00:35:31,640 --> 00:35:33,600
isn't isolated to just here.
912
00:35:33,600 --> 00:35:35,560
Anywhere in the world
that has high unemployment
913
00:35:35,560 --> 00:35:38,600
and low incomes is going
to experience the same
914
00:35:38,600 --> 00:35:39,840
but the difference in a place like
915
00:35:39,840 --> 00:35:41,920
the Greek islands is that, once gone,
916
00:35:41,920 --> 00:35:43,520
people don't return in a hurry.
917
00:35:45,480 --> 00:35:47,280
The turnaround in economy is much slower
918
00:35:47,280 --> 00:35:48,720
in places like Sifnos.
919
00:35:48,720 --> 00:35:50,960
Everything moves at a more gradual pace.
920
00:35:50,960 --> 00:35:52,440
So, it takes a lot of investment
921
00:35:52,440 --> 00:35:55,440
and inspiration to get
things back on track.
922
00:35:55,440 --> 00:35:58,320
That's where people like
Leonidas come to the fore.
923
00:35:58,320 --> 00:36:00,320
Through his philanthropy and influence,
924
00:36:00,320 --> 00:36:02,960
he's making a huge difference
to the lives of others.
925
00:36:05,120 --> 00:36:07,280
The people of Greece are a resilient lot.
926
00:36:07,280 --> 00:36:09,360
They've been through
plenty over the centuries.
927
00:36:09,360 --> 00:36:11,960
Wars, famine and
oppression have shaped them
928
00:36:11,960 --> 00:36:13,280
into a tough people.
929
00:36:13,280 --> 00:36:15,640
So, now it's time to put
that strength into practise.
930
00:36:15,640 --> 00:36:19,400
Knuckle down and work hard to
restore the nations economy.
931
00:36:19,400 --> 00:36:22,160
(relaxing music)
932
00:36:44,720 --> 00:36:46,360
You can't see the white caps out there
933
00:36:46,360 --> 00:36:49,400
but the weather has
actually kept us in Sifnos
934
00:36:49,400 --> 00:36:51,240
for a couple days longer than we wanted to
935
00:36:51,240 --> 00:36:52,920
but it's been a great experience
936
00:36:52,920 --> 00:36:55,680
because we've discovered
more of Sifnos as a result
937
00:36:55,680 --> 00:36:58,480
and the many personalities that it has.
938
00:36:58,480 --> 00:37:00,760
This place here, alone,
here at Lazerus beach.
939
00:37:01,800 --> 00:37:03,400
It's so comfortable,
940
00:37:03,400 --> 00:37:05,480
so luxurious.
941
00:37:05,480 --> 00:37:07,920
I feel like the weather should
stay here for a bit longer.
942
00:37:09,600 --> 00:37:10,920
Cheers.
943
00:37:10,920 --> 00:37:12,280
Be sad to leave Sifnos now.
944
00:37:14,520 --> 00:37:15,920
That's beautiful.
945
00:37:18,880 --> 00:37:22,520
(sighs with relief)
946
00:37:22,520 --> 00:37:24,760
I feel like a bit of a travel tart.
947
00:37:24,760 --> 00:37:27,880
I seem to fall in love with
every island I step foot on.
948
00:37:27,880 --> 00:37:29,560
Across the last two series,
949
00:37:29,560 --> 00:37:31,440
I've probably seen a dozen or more places
950
00:37:31,440 --> 00:37:33,800
that are up there in my
favourite places to visit.
951
00:37:33,800 --> 00:37:35,880
Mind you, it's hard not to be smitten
952
00:37:35,880 --> 00:37:37,920
when there's so much beauty to enjoy
953
00:37:37,920 --> 00:37:40,280
and such incredible
history to learn about.
954
00:37:45,880 --> 00:37:49,200
(upbeat bouzouki music)
955
00:38:01,200 --> 00:38:03,800
- [Peter] I'm on the island of Poleigos,
956
00:38:03,800 --> 00:38:05,840
adjacent to Kimolos and Milos.
957
00:38:06,920 --> 00:38:11,480
And to everybody, this
is an uninhabited island.
958
00:38:11,480 --> 00:38:15,280
But we've heard that there is
one lonely shepherd, Petros,
959
00:38:15,280 --> 00:38:17,120
that's been living here for 30 years.
960
00:38:17,960 --> 00:38:21,800
And in my quest to see all the
inhabited islands of Greece,
961
00:38:21,800 --> 00:38:23,240
I had to come here.
962
00:38:23,240 --> 00:38:25,280
But this is some track and some mountain.
963
00:38:27,200 --> 00:38:28,080
Even though it's surrounded
964
00:38:28,080 --> 00:38:29,960
by islands where there's plenty of people,
965
00:38:29,960 --> 00:38:31,680
Poleigos remains vacant,
966
00:38:31,680 --> 00:38:34,720
with the exception of our
herder and his goat, it's empty.
967
00:38:34,720 --> 00:38:36,920
There's even very little
in the way of plant life
968
00:38:36,920 --> 00:38:39,720
which is largely due to
the aforementioned animals.
969
00:38:39,720 --> 00:38:41,400
For those of you who don't speak Greek,
970
00:38:41,400 --> 00:38:44,280
the name translates to mean, many goats.
971
00:38:44,280 --> 00:38:45,720
Despite all he great minds
972
00:38:45,720 --> 00:38:47,320
and artists that have come from Greece,
973
00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:50,280
sometimes they're a bit
simple in naming places.
974
00:38:50,280 --> 00:38:52,800
Jeez, he wouldn't wanna have
too many visitors would he?
975
00:39:00,640 --> 00:39:02,960
It's a dry, rocky lump of land
976
00:39:02,960 --> 00:39:05,360
about 18 square kilometres in size.
977
00:39:05,360 --> 00:39:06,760
It's not flat either.
978
00:39:06,760 --> 00:39:08,120
So, you can see why it's not exactly
979
00:39:08,120 --> 00:39:10,320
the most attractive place
to build a settlement.
980
00:39:10,320 --> 00:39:13,680
That said, the isolation
and views have their appeal.
981
00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:15,960
It's the kind of place,
that in 20 years from now,
982
00:39:15,960 --> 00:39:17,320
you'll find a yoga retreat.
983
00:39:19,360 --> 00:39:22,000
The man I was coming to meet
is somewhat of a hermit.
984
00:39:22,000 --> 00:39:24,200
By no means does he not like visitors.
985
00:39:24,200 --> 00:39:27,680
Petros is just seaking
sanctuary away from the crowds.
986
00:39:27,680 --> 00:39:29,480
Where he and his animals can enjoy
987
00:39:29,480 --> 00:39:31,840
a simple life with minimal stress.
988
00:39:31,840 --> 00:39:33,120
He spends his days tending
989
00:39:33,120 --> 00:39:35,680
to his animals like they are his children.
990
00:39:35,680 --> 00:39:38,640
He's not on Facebook or
bothering with politics.
991
00:39:38,640 --> 00:39:40,400
He gets on with things fuss free
992
00:39:40,400 --> 00:39:42,600
and at his own pace.
993
00:39:42,600 --> 00:39:46,680
(both speak in foreign language)
994
00:40:13,320 --> 00:40:14,800
It's like his family.
995
00:40:14,800 --> 00:40:18,880
(both speak in foreign language)
996
00:40:24,440 --> 00:40:26,080
They've all got a different name.
997
00:40:27,240 --> 00:40:29,400
This is Petros's family.
998
00:40:29,400 --> 00:40:30,360
This is fantastic.
999
00:40:31,200 --> 00:40:35,320
(both speak in foreign language)
1000
00:42:35,120 --> 00:42:37,160
See ya girls, boys.
1001
00:42:37,160 --> 00:42:38,000
Thank you.
1002
00:42:50,840 --> 00:42:52,440
Life here might be simple
1003
00:42:52,440 --> 00:42:54,720
and Petros may not be a wealthy man
1004
00:42:54,720 --> 00:42:57,520
but it's happiness that we all aspire to.
1005
00:42:57,520 --> 00:42:59,240
He's achieved a state of wellbeing
1006
00:42:59,240 --> 00:43:01,680
that most of us only ever dream about.
1007
00:43:01,680 --> 00:43:02,840
There's nothing better.
1008
00:43:06,120 --> 00:43:09,440
And the Ghi, the heavy Ghi.
1009
00:43:11,440 --> 00:43:12,800
Man.
1010
00:43:12,800 --> 00:43:15,800
(coughs and laughs)
1011
00:43:20,120 --> 00:43:24,200
(both speak in foreign language)
1012
00:43:37,040 --> 00:43:38,240
With Petro being
1013
00:43:38,240 --> 00:43:41,600
the last surviving inhabitant of Poleigos,
1014
00:43:41,600 --> 00:43:42,520
I can't help thinking
1015
00:43:42,520 --> 00:43:45,880
that in a few years time
he'll no longer be here
1016
00:43:45,880 --> 00:43:48,480
and we're probably the
last ones to film life
1017
00:43:48,480 --> 00:43:50,120
on this island.
1018
00:43:50,120 --> 00:43:53,200
It's a bit sad but wow, what
a great experience it's been.
1019
00:43:59,880 --> 00:44:02,040
In the final episode of series two,
1020
00:44:02,040 --> 00:44:04,400
I'm finishing my time
in the western Cyclads
1021
00:44:04,400 --> 00:44:07,400
by exploring the islands
of Kimolos and Milos.
1022
00:44:07,400 --> 00:44:09,840
Despite their close
proximity to one another
1023
00:44:09,840 --> 00:44:11,600
they're in stark contrast.
1024
00:44:11,600 --> 00:44:14,160
Kimolos is small, sparsely populated
1025
00:44:14,160 --> 00:44:15,520
and relatively flat.
1026
00:44:15,520 --> 00:44:17,000
While the much better known, Milos,
1027
00:44:17,000 --> 00:44:20,080
has a mountainous landscape
and loads of people.
1028
00:44:20,080 --> 00:44:22,760
Each has its own appeal
which I intend to unearth.
1029
00:44:24,120 --> 00:44:27,440
(gentle bouzouki music)
75179
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