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(upbeat music)
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- In the first series,
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I began unravelling the story
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of this spectacular and historic nation
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by travelling from Athens
around the Peloponnese
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and up to the Ionian Islands.
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It took in parts of the country
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that lots of tourists know well,
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but in amongst the popular
places were hidden gems,
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undiscovered by the holiday masses.
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This series I'm back on board
my beautiful boat, Mia Zoi,
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and heading to a region of Greece
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I haven't spent much time in.
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The plan is to skip between the island,
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taking in the sights
of the Northern Aegean.
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It'll be a journey of discovery
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where I'll be digging deep into the fabric
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that makes Greece so unique,
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and immersing myself in
a centuries old culture
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unlike anywhere else on earth.
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(placid music)
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After spending several weeks cruising
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through some of the most remote
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and lesser known islands in Greece,
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this episode sees me exploring Chios,
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my final port of call for
the first leg of the series.
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I've enjoyed an incredible
couple of months,
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seeing amazing landmarks,
and meeting wonderful people,
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all the while learning
about the story of Greece.
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No two islands were the same
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with sights, sounds, smells, and tastes
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that set them all apart.
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The Northern Aegean proved
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to be a beautiful part of the country,
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and while it might be the end
of this part of the journey,
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ahead lies the Cycladic islands.
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(upbeat music)
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Chios is a busy island
with a healthy population.
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No doubt, it suffered a little
from the economic downturn
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that has seen many of the
small places in Greece
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become decimated,
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but thanks to strong tourism
and long-standing industries,
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it's still thriving.
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It's an island that somehow manages
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to fuse the old with the new.
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While there's ancient ruins and buildings
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that have stood for centuries,
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in amongst these historic sites
are modern-day structures,
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creating a mixed and
interesting street scape.
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The main town and port are busy year round
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with great shopping, loads of taverns,
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cafes, delis, and places to stay,
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but you don't have to travel
far to escape the crowds
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and find a quiet place to relax.
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That said, if you wanna see all
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that this island has to offer,
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and like me, you're pressed for time,
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then you won't be spending too much of it
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sitting on a beach.
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(upbeat music)
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This looks like a pretty
average scene on a Greek island.
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There's a church over there,
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and there's a church over there,
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and a village all the way around it,
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but something special
happens here every year
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that doesn't happen
anywhere else in the world.
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On Easter Saturday at midnight,
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skyrockets are set up just
down there and just down there
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and the competition is to see
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who can hit the other bell tower first.
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It's pretty dangerous,
and you wanna be up here.
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I just don't know how many years
this is gonna last, though.
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(placid music)
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Easter celebrations in Greece
follow a fairly stick agenda,
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but over the years,
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different islands have
added their own flavour
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to spice up the festive atmosphere
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of this most sacred of
Christian orthodox events.
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During the Easter period in Chios
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the first thing you'll notice around town
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is the scaffolding and wire mesh
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wrapped around the buildings
near the two main churches.
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It's as though all the
houses are under renovation
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or part of a battle zone.
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It just goes to show how
hazardous a situation it is.
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To be honest,
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once you see the madness
that happens after dark,
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you'll be asking the same question as me.
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How on earth do they get away with this?
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Apart from the dangers to the people,
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surely a house or two
burns down on occasion.
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(chattering)
(rooster crowing)
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(chattering)
(church bells ringing)
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(bells ringing)
(singing)
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While preparations are
underway on the outside,
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within the church walls,
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things seem pretty much run of the mill
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for this time of the year,
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at least, the start of proceedings is.
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However, that all comes
to a noisy, chaotic halt
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when the priest makes his entrance.
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(singing)
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(drums smashing)
(chattering)
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(drums smashing)
(singing)
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Father Christophoros
bursts onto the scene,
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throwing bay leaves into
the crowd amidst cheering,
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swinging chandeliers,
and a cacophony of noise.
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It's symbolises Christ's victory
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and the miracle of resurrection.
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(chattering)
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From there, the two rival congregations
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gather at the shoreline
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before making their way to
their respective churches
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to finish preparations for the warfare
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that occurs after dark.
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At first glance, it looks
like a protest march,
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but it's quite the opposite.
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They're coming together for a celebration,
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albeit one that seems a little crazy.
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(placid music)
(chanting)
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(placid music)
(fire crackers fizzing)
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As a bystander, looking at
this signals danger and lunacy,
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but once you realise they've
been doing this for years
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without a fatality,
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you feel a tad more comfortable.
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The organisers have
taken several precautions
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to keep the people and properties safe.
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Apart from all the mesh screens
and designated safety signs,
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if anything does go wrong,
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there's a number of firemen
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and other emergency services on standby.
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(placid music)
(fire crackers fizzing)
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This battle between neighbourhoods,
although taken seriously,
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is a festive celebration.
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There's no malice in it,
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just a night of madness
steeped in tradition.
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For the other 364 days of the year,
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both of them just get on perfectly well,
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I think.
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(placid music)
(fire crackers fizzing)
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The night sky lights up
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like New Year's celebrations in Sydney.
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There might not be thunderous
explosions of huge fireworks,
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but that's made up for
with the deafening fizzes
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of thousands of rockets
being fired at low level.
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They bounce and ricochet
off the walls of buildings,
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sending sparks everywhere.
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This is about as close as most people come
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to being on a battlefield.
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It's absolute madness,
but a whole lot of fun,
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and actually quite beautiful.
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(placid music)
(fire crackers fizzing)
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(placid music)
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(upbeat music)
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I'm on my way to the Mayor's office.
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He's actually an architect,
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and he's gonna show me around the town.
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(cicadas chirping)
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But have a look at this.
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All the pink and orange stone,
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the soft stone that's native to Chios.
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(cicadas chirping)
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Pretty special, it's got it's
own identity, this place.
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Better keep moving, I don't wanna be late.
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(cicadas chirping)
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Only a few kilometres from Chios town
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is the beautiful village of Kampos.
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It's one of the prettiest
areas of the island,
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filled with mansions
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built by the Genoese in the 14th century.
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The distinctive high walls were there
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not to protect those living inside,
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but to keep safe the very product
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that made these people so wealthy.
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(cicadas chirping)
(chicken clucking)
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(car engine droning)
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The most famous of these estates
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is Antouaniko Mansion,
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which in 2015 won the European Union prize
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for cultural heritage.
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Showing me around was the main architect
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responsible for the restoration
works, Manolis Vournous.
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He's also the Mayor.
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You won't find anyone with
more knowledge and passion
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about the architecture
of Chios than this guy.
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His depth of understanding
was so thorough,
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he could talk all day about
the most intricate of details.
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This sort of knowledge
has to be appreciated.
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It's put to wonderful use
in the ongoing refurbishment
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of other similar buildings
around the island.
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(cicadas chirping)
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- This is the heart of
any estate in Kampos.
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That is the well, the water.
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It is the reason for having
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all of the agricultural
civilization developed in Kampos.
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You get the water very deep,
so you have to raise it up,
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and you raise it through those buckets
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which are moved with the oxen or the mule
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which is turning around the well.
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(placid music)
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- [Peter] In my line of work,
I met a lot of architects.
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They're a passionate bunch
and their creative minds
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can sometimes be a challenge to handle,
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but that same mentality
can also manifest itself
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in a myriad of ways.
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In Manolis's case, he's a details man.
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He understands the intricate details
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of every inch of this place,
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from how the waterwheel operates
to irrigate the property
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to the different types of stone
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used for the walls and paths.
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- It is getting into this basin here
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and this system here is filled with water
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through which is watered all the garden.
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(cicadas chirping)
(placid music)
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- I love this, even though
it's several hundred years old,
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Manolis is explaining to me
that this trenching system
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is permanent and several trenches
is still being used today
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to water the whole place.
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It's unbelievable.
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00:10:06,000 --> 00:10:07,680
And you've got little dykes
there, how does that work?
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- Well, it's very simple.
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You just remove it and you have the water,
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it is going in that direction,
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or if you want to direct
it through this channel,
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you just remove it, put it here.
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- So, this is the main channel here,
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and that's a temporary channel?
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00:10:18,760 --> 00:10:21,640
- Exactly, this is the
permanent, this is the temporary,
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and depending on where you want water,
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you just change, very, very,
very primitive as technology,
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but it's so simple
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00:10:28,720 --> 00:10:31,360
and it's working for hundreds
and hundreds of years,
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00:10:31,360 --> 00:10:32,480
and everybody can understand it.
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- It's awesome, look at it go.
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- You just water all these
plantations, you can do it.
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- Anyone can.
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- Anyone can, well, you
have to work hard to do it.
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- Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
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(cicadas chirping)
(placid music)
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It's a lot of work and expense
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just for mandarins and oranges,
at least, in today's world.
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A few hundred years ago,
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it was a vastly different case.
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Back then, when they first
discovered the medicinal value
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00:11:02,000 --> 00:11:03,960
of these common place fruits of today,
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citrus was only grown in
a limited number of places
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that were close enough for the produce
249
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to be shipped into
Europe without spoiling.
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In cold countries like Russia,
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the price of an orange was huge.
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They would wrap them
individually in fine paper
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or even gold leaf,
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and only the wealthiest of
people would indulge in them.
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In today's market,
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you could compare them
to truffles or saffron.
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(cicadas chirping)
(placid music)
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00:11:25,920 --> 00:11:28,240
Growing citrus was
therefore a lucrative trade,
259
00:11:28,240 --> 00:11:29,840
which brought wealth to the island.
260
00:11:29,840 --> 00:11:31,840
It manifests itself in the luxurious homes
261
00:11:31,840 --> 00:11:33,240
you see around the place,
262
00:11:33,240 --> 00:11:35,360
but with fortune came thieves.
263
00:11:35,360 --> 00:11:38,200
So, to protect their groves
from not only prevailing winds,
264
00:11:38,200 --> 00:11:39,520
but also looters,
265
00:11:39,520 --> 00:11:41,720
they built high walls
around their properties.
266
00:11:41,720 --> 00:11:42,920
You could say it was like money
267
00:11:42,920 --> 00:11:45,080
was literally being grown on trees.
268
00:11:45,080 --> 00:11:50,080
(cicadas chirping)
(placid music)
269
00:11:56,880 --> 00:11:59,160
- You have here this alley here
270
00:11:59,160 --> 00:12:01,640
which is mostly defined by this channel.
271
00:12:01,640 --> 00:12:05,400
It's as if you are in
this garden of the oranges
272
00:12:05,400 --> 00:12:08,040
of the Hercules story,
273
00:12:09,200 --> 00:12:11,960
that he was in the garden of citrus.
274
00:12:11,960 --> 00:12:13,240
- [Peter] Yes, yes.
275
00:12:13,240 --> 00:12:18,240
(scooter engin droning)
(placid music)
276
00:12:18,440 --> 00:12:21,640
If you come to Chios, Kampos
is well worth a visit,
277
00:12:21,640 --> 00:12:22,880
however, there's a number
of other towns here
278
00:12:22,880 --> 00:12:25,760
that were also built
on agricultural wealth,
279
00:12:25,760 --> 00:12:27,400
but not due to citrus.
280
00:12:27,400 --> 00:12:29,120
The fortress-like villages in the south
281
00:12:29,120 --> 00:12:31,800
prospered thanks to what the
island's most famous for,
282
00:12:31,800 --> 00:12:33,920
the sap of the Mastiha tree.
283
00:12:33,920 --> 00:12:37,240
I've read somewhere that the
Genoese built these towns
284
00:12:37,240 --> 00:12:40,400
with these towers and wall fortification
285
00:12:40,400 --> 00:12:41,880
to protect the Mastiha.
286
00:12:41,880 --> 00:12:44,600
- Well, it was not
exactly for Mastiha only.
287
00:12:44,600 --> 00:12:47,680
It was generally in order
to organise the countryside,
288
00:12:47,680 --> 00:12:49,800
coming through the Byzantine years
289
00:12:49,800 --> 00:12:52,880
where there was a
diminishing of the population
290
00:12:52,880 --> 00:12:54,760
on the islands generally.
291
00:12:54,760 --> 00:12:59,080
There was a phenomenon which
was first seen in Italy
292
00:12:59,080 --> 00:13:00,920
that was called incastellamento,
293
00:13:00,920 --> 00:13:03,360
that is to organise the countryside
294
00:13:03,360 --> 00:13:06,040
by creating administrational centres,
295
00:13:06,040 --> 00:13:10,120
which were also centres for the
gathering of the production,
296
00:13:10,120 --> 00:13:11,880
of the agricultural production.
297
00:13:11,880 --> 00:13:13,200
So, the Genoese is one of the first
298
00:13:13,200 --> 00:13:16,600
to create on Chios towers,
299
00:13:16,600 --> 00:13:19,280
around which the settlements,
300
00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:21,600
there were settlers coming to stay there.
301
00:13:21,600 --> 00:13:23,840
It was a kind of urbanisation, let's say,
302
00:13:23,840 --> 00:13:26,320
because people started
growing more and more
303
00:13:26,320 --> 00:13:27,400
around those towers,
304
00:13:27,400 --> 00:13:29,720
where the production was kept mostly
305
00:13:29,720 --> 00:13:31,360
and very important for Mastiha.
306
00:13:31,360 --> 00:13:32,440
- So, should we go and have a look?
307
00:13:32,440 --> 00:13:33,360
- Yeah, yeah.
- Let's go and have a look.
308
00:13:33,360 --> 00:13:35,960
(upbeat music)
309
00:13:39,200 --> 00:13:40,800
So, this was the outside of.
310
00:13:40,800 --> 00:13:42,960
- Yeah, exactly, this is the
line of the original wall.
311
00:13:42,960 --> 00:13:44,640
It's still many, parts of it,
312
00:13:44,640 --> 00:13:45,920
it is the original wall,
313
00:13:45,920 --> 00:13:49,000
but lately in 19th Century, mostly,
314
00:13:49,000 --> 00:13:53,800
they have opened, the houses
have arrive to touch the walls
315
00:13:53,800 --> 00:13:55,680
and then they have opened also,
316
00:13:55,680 --> 00:13:59,640
and much later, they have
opened the doors, and windows,
317
00:13:59,640 --> 00:14:00,880
and things like that.
318
00:14:00,880 --> 00:14:05,600
This originally used to be just a wall
319
00:14:05,600 --> 00:14:06,800
with no openings at all.
320
00:14:06,800 --> 00:14:08,040
This was the main gate.
321
00:14:08,040 --> 00:14:09,000
This is the main gate,
322
00:14:09,000 --> 00:14:12,600
and it's very interesting
getting off from here,
323
00:14:12,600 --> 00:14:16,000
and there is this network of
streets around the houses.
324
00:14:16,000 --> 00:14:18,280
The house, the one next
to the other, adjacent,
325
00:14:18,280 --> 00:14:21,240
and the one is leaning
towards the other one.
326
00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:23,800
That's why these are the showers.
327
00:14:23,800 --> 00:14:24,720
(laughter)
328
00:14:24,720 --> 00:14:26,560
(upbeat music)
329
00:14:26,560 --> 00:14:28,160
- Walking along the old stone lanes,
330
00:14:28,160 --> 00:14:30,320
you're taken back in time.
331
00:14:30,320 --> 00:14:33,240
For me, it's a snapshot
of how life once was.
332
00:14:33,240 --> 00:14:36,040
That said, there are plenty
of people living here today,
333
00:14:36,040 --> 00:14:38,920
having converted the old
buildings for modern applications.
334
00:14:38,920 --> 00:14:40,760
(upbeat music)
335
00:14:40,760 --> 00:14:43,120
Throughout the alleyways there
are wonderful little shops
336
00:14:43,120 --> 00:14:45,880
and taverns serving local
food and other products
337
00:14:45,880 --> 00:14:48,040
that are distinctly from Chios.
338
00:14:48,040 --> 00:14:50,560
It's seen the menu ever establishment,
339
00:14:50,560 --> 00:14:53,080
and more so, every passer by.
340
00:14:53,080 --> 00:14:57,000
(speaking in foreign language)
341
00:15:04,800 --> 00:15:05,800
We get stopped everywhere,
342
00:15:05,800 --> 00:15:07,000
he's the Mayor, he knows everybody.
343
00:15:07,000 --> 00:15:08,760
What do I do, you know?
344
00:15:08,760 --> 00:15:11,280
We walked 300 metres
and it takes 10 minutes.
345
00:15:11,280 --> 00:15:14,040
(chattering in foreign language)
346
00:15:14,040 --> 00:15:16,600
We got the Mayor and
we've got the best singer.
347
00:15:16,600 --> 00:15:18,240
The best actress, as well?
348
00:15:18,240 --> 00:15:19,080
- No actress.
349
00:15:19,080 --> 00:15:19,920
- Actress, is that right?
350
00:15:19,920 --> 00:15:20,840
- Singer, singer, I'm a singer.
351
00:15:20,840 --> 00:15:22,200
- She's a singer, the
best singer in Chios.
352
00:15:22,200 --> 00:15:23,200
Are we laughing or what?
353
00:15:23,200 --> 00:15:25,800
(upbeat music)
354
00:15:30,120 --> 00:15:32,720
(upbeat music)
355
00:15:41,200 --> 00:15:44,760
(car motor droning)
356
00:15:44,760 --> 00:15:47,840
The south of Chios is
covered in Mastic plantations
357
00:15:47,840 --> 00:15:50,400
More than likely, you've
never heard of it.
358
00:15:50,400 --> 00:15:52,000
The tree sap is a unique resin
359
00:15:52,000 --> 00:15:54,040
that's cultivated for its many uses.
360
00:15:54,040 --> 00:15:55,640
You'll find it in all sorts of things,
361
00:15:55,640 --> 00:15:58,320
from chewing gum to
pharmaceutical products.
362
00:15:58,320 --> 00:16:00,720
In antiquity, its antibacterial,
363
00:16:00,720 --> 00:16:03,080
antioxidant, and anti fungal properties
364
00:16:03,080 --> 00:16:04,640
saw it used extensively
365
00:16:04,640 --> 00:16:08,240
as a remedy for everything
from colds to blood conditions.
366
00:16:08,240 --> 00:16:09,920
It's said Hippocrates used Mastic
367
00:16:09,920 --> 00:16:11,880
for the prevention of digestive problems,
368
00:16:11,880 --> 00:16:13,640
and even as a breath freshener.
369
00:16:13,640 --> 00:16:14,960
There's only one place in the world
370
00:16:14,960 --> 00:16:17,000
where Mastiha is being
harvested successfully
371
00:16:17,000 --> 00:16:18,480
for thousands of years,
372
00:16:18,480 --> 00:16:20,000
and that's right here in Chios.
373
00:16:24,880 --> 00:16:27,720
(shovel scraping)
374
00:16:36,760 --> 00:16:39,040
- Only the rocks?
375
00:16:39,040 --> 00:16:42,440
You finish it off, mate,
because I'm not an expert.
376
00:16:42,440 --> 00:16:44,640
But what Nico's doing now
377
00:16:44,640 --> 00:16:48,200
is just cleaning the rocks off the surface
378
00:16:50,040 --> 00:16:54,880
so that he can then blow the
surface of the small rocks
379
00:16:55,720 --> 00:16:58,800
before he puts the calcium carbonate down.
380
00:16:58,800 --> 00:17:02,920
The calcium carbonate is a
food grade calcium carbonate
381
00:17:02,920 --> 00:17:07,840
and it forms a platform
for the Mastiha, the gum,
382
00:17:07,840 --> 00:17:08,840
to come down.
383
00:17:08,840 --> 00:17:10,160
So, Nico, when do we do this?
384
00:17:10,160 --> 00:17:12,160
When do we clean this and
put the calcium carbonate?
385
00:17:12,160 --> 00:17:13,360
What month?
386
00:17:13,360 --> 00:17:15,440
- [Nico] We start to
clean the tree at June.
387
00:17:15,440 --> 00:17:16,440
- [Peter] June, okay.
388
00:17:16,440 --> 00:17:17,440
(shovel scraping)
389
00:17:17,440 --> 00:17:20,520
- [Nico] And then, at
July, we start to put the--
390
00:17:20,520 --> 00:17:23,000
- Calcium carbonate, okay.
391
00:17:23,000 --> 00:17:24,320
What's next?
392
00:17:24,320 --> 00:17:26,640
(shovel scraping)
393
00:17:26,640 --> 00:17:27,720
We're gonna blow it now.
394
00:17:27,720 --> 00:17:28,560
(shovel scraping)
395
00:17:28,560 --> 00:17:29,400
Can I try blowing?
396
00:17:29,400 --> 00:17:30,240
(shovel scraping)
397
00:17:30,240 --> 00:17:31,400
Nico, can I try blow...
398
00:17:31,400 --> 00:17:33,920
(blower engin drones)
399
00:17:33,920 --> 00:17:35,320
Needs an expert, right?
400
00:17:35,320 --> 00:17:36,200
(blower engin drones)
401
00:17:36,200 --> 00:17:37,520
You blow, you blow, you blow.
402
00:17:37,520 --> 00:17:41,280
(blower engin drones)
403
00:17:41,280 --> 00:17:44,640
There are 2,500,000 Mastiha
trees in all of Chios,
404
00:17:44,640 --> 00:17:47,280
and they only really work half
those trees at any one time
405
00:17:47,280 --> 00:17:48,600
to give the other ones a rest.
406
00:17:48,600 --> 00:17:51,200
So, there's 1,200,000 odd tress
407
00:17:51,200 --> 00:17:52,960
that are being worked every year.
408
00:17:53,800 --> 00:17:58,800
They get from those trees
only 160 tonnes of Mastiha,
409
00:18:00,400 --> 00:18:01,840
that's the world wide production.
410
00:18:01,840 --> 00:18:03,720
Now, what are you gonna do now, Nico?
411
00:18:03,720 --> 00:18:04,560
- We start to--
412
00:18:04,560 --> 00:18:05,400
- Score.
- Score the tree.
413
00:18:05,400 --> 00:18:06,920
- You score away, mate.
414
00:18:06,920 --> 00:18:09,800
So, and what he's gonna do now
is he's gonna score the tree
415
00:18:09,800 --> 00:18:11,920
so there's openings
for the gum to come out
416
00:18:11,920 --> 00:18:13,000
over the next few months,
417
00:18:13,000 --> 00:18:14,680
and it just trickles out
418
00:18:14,680 --> 00:18:17,480
onto that food grade calcium carbonate.
419
00:18:17,480 --> 00:18:19,960
It takes several months
for the gum to trickle out
420
00:18:19,960 --> 00:18:22,840
so that they can collect
it some time in September.
421
00:18:24,400 --> 00:18:27,200
(stones grinding)
422
00:18:31,440 --> 00:18:33,800
- This is before today's.
423
00:18:33,800 --> 00:18:35,520
- This is only two days?
424
00:18:35,520 --> 00:18:36,400
- Two days.
425
00:18:36,400 --> 00:18:39,400
- So, over a two or tree month period,
426
00:18:39,400 --> 00:18:42,960
we get about 200 grammes
out of every tree.
427
00:18:42,960 --> 00:18:43,760
Can I touch?
428
00:18:49,720 --> 00:18:51,960
Ah, (laughs) that's awesome.
429
00:18:53,080 --> 00:18:54,440
Now, you don't leave it on your finger
430
00:18:54,440 --> 00:18:57,240
because it sticks,
431
00:18:57,240 --> 00:19:00,320
so you rub it with a bit
of dirt to get rid of it.
432
00:19:02,400 --> 00:19:04,800
The calcium carbonate to get rid of it.
433
00:19:04,800 --> 00:19:08,120
And you can see where it's scored,
434
00:19:08,120 --> 00:19:11,360
the gum, the Mastiha is coming.
435
00:19:11,360 --> 00:19:13,680
Jeez, there's still a
strong taste in my mouth.
436
00:19:13,680 --> 00:19:14,480
It hasn't left.
437
00:19:15,880 --> 00:19:18,400
What's amazing is that
they've been doing it
438
00:19:18,400 --> 00:19:20,800
for 7,000 years.
439
00:19:20,800 --> 00:19:23,840
2,000 years ago, they were
using it for cosmetics as well.
440
00:19:23,840 --> 00:19:24,920
It's amazing stuff.
441
00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:27,840
The resin dries in the sun,
442
00:19:27,840 --> 00:19:31,080
forming brittle, translusive
globules called tears.
443
00:19:31,080 --> 00:19:32,720
Harvesting is done by hand.
444
00:19:32,720 --> 00:19:34,840
It's a delicate, time consuming process.
445
00:19:42,320 --> 00:19:44,920
(placid music)
446
00:19:46,160 --> 00:19:47,120
- To the unknowing eye,
447
00:19:47,120 --> 00:19:48,400
you could be forgiven for thinking
448
00:19:48,400 --> 00:19:50,880
this was just another olive plantation,
449
00:19:50,880 --> 00:19:53,320
but these trees are far more valuable,
450
00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:55,920
and their upkeep much
more labour intensive.
451
00:19:55,920 --> 00:19:57,360
There's no where else in the Mediterranean
452
00:19:57,360 --> 00:20:00,960
that produces enough Mastiha
for food and pharmaceutical use
453
00:20:00,960 --> 00:20:04,360
and it's an industry that's
been going for over 2,000 years.
454
00:20:04,360 --> 00:20:05,520
In that time,
455
00:20:05,520 --> 00:20:07,760
little has changed in the farming process,
456
00:20:07,760 --> 00:20:09,920
which is part of the reason
why it's so expensive.
457
00:20:09,920 --> 00:20:12,800
(placid music)
458
00:20:12,800 --> 00:20:15,480
To learn more about this
versatile wonderplant,
459
00:20:15,480 --> 00:20:16,920
I visited the Mastic Museum.
460
00:20:16,920 --> 00:20:18,160
The building it's housed in
461
00:20:18,160 --> 00:20:20,840
is an architectural
icon in it's own right,
462
00:20:20,840 --> 00:20:22,040
and well worth a visit just
463
00:20:22,040 --> 00:20:24,040
to appreciate its beautiful form.
464
00:20:24,040 --> 00:20:26,480
What's inside tells a story of Mastic.
465
00:20:26,480 --> 00:20:29,440
Illustrated through the
history, cultivation processes,
466
00:20:29,440 --> 00:20:31,920
and applications of this unique extract.
467
00:20:31,920 --> 00:20:34,600
The display shows how
Mastic shaped the landscape
468
00:20:34,600 --> 00:20:37,840
and influenced the design of
the villages of southern Chios,
469
00:20:37,840 --> 00:20:39,800
from the homes that people lived in
470
00:20:39,800 --> 00:20:41,840
to the layout of the settlements.
471
00:20:41,840 --> 00:20:43,560
Everything revolved around it,
472
00:20:43,560 --> 00:20:45,560
and most people played a
role in its production.
473
00:20:45,560 --> 00:20:48,160
(placid music)
474
00:20:49,400 --> 00:20:51,440
So, this is the thick grain Mastic
475
00:20:51,440 --> 00:20:53,560
that the growers give to the co-op,
476
00:20:53,560 --> 00:20:56,320
and then it gets distributed
and sent overseas.
477
00:20:56,320 --> 00:20:58,920
(placid music)
478
00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:02,600
Agh, it smells awesome.
479
00:21:02,600 --> 00:21:05,200
(placid music)
480
00:21:07,160 --> 00:21:10,080
When it comes to agriculture,
in the majority of cases,
481
00:21:10,080 --> 00:21:12,840
advances in technology have
greatly increased the yield
482
00:21:12,840 --> 00:21:14,040
of commercial crops,
483
00:21:14,040 --> 00:21:16,720
or at least made things a
little easier for the farmers.
484
00:21:16,720 --> 00:21:19,480
That's not so much the
case for Mastic growers.
485
00:21:19,480 --> 00:21:21,840
While some parts of the
process have been mechanised,
486
00:21:21,840 --> 00:21:23,840
such as the end of the production line,
487
00:21:23,840 --> 00:21:26,800
the vast majority of the
labour is carried out by hand,
488
00:21:26,800 --> 00:21:29,960
using the same techniques
as centuries ago.
489
00:21:29,960 --> 00:21:32,520
It's a physically
demanding year-round job,
490
00:21:32,520 --> 00:21:34,800
and with such small yields per tree,
491
00:21:34,800 --> 00:21:36,960
it's probably not the most rewarding,
492
00:21:36,960 --> 00:21:39,400
but despite the challenges
the farmers face,
493
00:21:39,400 --> 00:21:41,720
the industry has remained
strong since antiquity.
494
00:21:41,720 --> 00:21:44,360
(metal droning)
495
00:21:47,040 --> 00:21:50,520
So, I've seen how it's picked,
I see how they make it.
496
00:21:51,520 --> 00:21:55,400
Now, I'm gonna taste it.
497
00:21:55,400 --> 00:21:58,000
(upbeat music)
498
00:22:00,480 --> 00:22:02,040
That's gorgeous.
499
00:22:02,040 --> 00:22:06,120
You can't come to Chios without
trying Mastiha, the liquor.
500
00:22:06,120 --> 00:22:06,960
It's beautiful.
501
00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:09,520
(upbeat music)
502
00:22:20,200 --> 00:22:22,800
(upbeat music)
503
00:22:34,840 --> 00:22:36,400
Travelling around Greece on your own boat
504
00:22:36,400 --> 00:22:38,560
gives you absolute freedom.
505
00:22:38,560 --> 00:22:40,480
We're constantly moving around,
506
00:22:40,480 --> 00:22:43,400
basing ourselves in a port
or marina for a few days
507
00:22:43,400 --> 00:22:46,920
before finding a cove or a
beautiful beach to drop anchor.
508
00:22:46,920 --> 00:22:49,120
Also, having a wife
that's a water baby means
509
00:22:49,120 --> 00:22:50,760
that to stay in the good books,
510
00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:53,160
I need to make sure she
can have her daily swim.
511
00:22:54,600 --> 00:22:56,760
Now, beaches are like, to me, food.
512
00:22:58,000 --> 00:23:00,400
It's good to have something
different every day,
513
00:23:00,400 --> 00:23:01,240
and Chios has that.
514
00:23:01,240 --> 00:23:04,000
They have sandy beaches, pebbly beaches,
515
00:23:04,000 --> 00:23:06,600
and this beach, there's
actually three of them,
516
00:23:06,600 --> 00:23:09,720
Mavra Volia, which means black pebbles.
517
00:23:09,720 --> 00:23:10,680
(pebbles grinding)
518
00:23:10,680 --> 00:23:11,840
Check it out.
519
00:23:11,840 --> 00:23:12,800
(pebbles grinding)
520
00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:15,320
Not only that, the water's
crystal clear and blue.
521
00:23:15,320 --> 00:23:16,600
It's beautiful.
522
00:23:16,600 --> 00:23:19,040
I should go for a swim, but I'm hungry.
523
00:23:19,040 --> 00:23:24,040
(upbeat music)
(pebbles grinding)
524
00:23:26,880 --> 00:23:29,040
The black pebbles and cliff face
525
00:23:29,040 --> 00:23:32,080
were in contrast with the
blue sea and sky above.
526
00:23:32,080 --> 00:23:33,440
It was like an oil painting
527
00:23:33,440 --> 00:23:35,480
that you couldn't take your eyes off.
528
00:23:35,480 --> 00:23:37,960
The clarity of the cool
water was incredible,
529
00:23:37,960 --> 00:23:41,440
and the fact so few people
were here made it ever better.
530
00:23:41,440 --> 00:23:42,640
To tell you the truth,
531
00:23:42,640 --> 00:23:44,600
considering it's possibly the most famous
532
00:23:44,600 --> 00:23:46,120
and pretty beach in Chios,
533
00:23:46,120 --> 00:23:48,040
I was surprised it was so quiet.
534
00:23:48,040 --> 00:23:48,920
(upbeat music)
535
00:23:48,920 --> 00:23:50,080
Back aboard Mia Zoi,
536
00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:53,320
preparation for tonight's
desert were already underway.
537
00:23:53,320 --> 00:23:55,480
Chef Kyriakos's mother
comes from the island.
538
00:23:55,480 --> 00:23:56,880
So, we have inside knowledge
539
00:23:56,880 --> 00:23:59,960
about how to make a local
sweet called Masourakia.
540
00:23:59,960 --> 00:24:02,880
It's a very simple recipe
using crushed almonds,
541
00:24:02,880 --> 00:24:04,800
a couple of eggs beaten into a meringue,
542
00:24:04,800 --> 00:24:07,600
some salt, phyllo pastry, lemon rind,
543
00:24:07,600 --> 00:24:09,240
and our special ingredient.
544
00:24:09,240 --> 00:24:11,080
Completing the dish is a rich syrup
545
00:24:11,080 --> 00:24:13,840
made from 250 grammes
of sugar, lemon juice,
546
00:24:13,840 --> 00:24:15,320
and a glass of water.
547
00:24:15,320 --> 00:24:17,000
So, we're making the syrup right now.
548
00:24:17,000 --> 00:24:17,840
It's the first thing we're gonna do
549
00:24:17,840 --> 00:24:19,560
'cause we've gotta let
it cool down afterwards.
550
00:24:19,560 --> 00:24:20,800
Just throws the sugar in now.
551
00:24:20,800 --> 00:24:22,120
I think I see Helen in the background,
552
00:24:22,120 --> 00:24:23,400
she's really upset about the sugar,
553
00:24:23,400 --> 00:24:25,760
but it's brown sugar, so it's okay.
554
00:24:25,760 --> 00:24:28,240
Vanilla is something you
will not find everywhere.
555
00:24:28,240 --> 00:24:31,000
You'll go to your local
Greek and delicate testing
556
00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:32,960
to find vanilla.
557
00:24:32,960 --> 00:24:33,920
Look at it, look at this stuff.
558
00:24:33,920 --> 00:24:35,160
Look at it, look at that.
559
00:24:36,640 --> 00:24:40,080
It's basically vanilla extract,
sugar, I've got no idea,
560
00:24:40,080 --> 00:24:40,920
but this one's special
561
00:24:40,920 --> 00:24:42,760
because it's got a bit of Mastiha in it,
562
00:24:42,760 --> 00:24:44,080
which is local to the island.
563
00:24:44,080 --> 00:24:49,080
That beautiful flavoured tree
thing that they have here.
564
00:24:49,520 --> 00:24:50,360
Anyway.
565
00:24:52,080 --> 00:24:53,760
- From the tree, it's from the tree.
566
00:24:53,760 --> 00:24:54,920
(placid music)
567
00:24:54,920 --> 00:24:56,760
The vanilla is slowly melted
568
00:24:56,760 --> 00:24:59,080
so that it mixes well with
the other ingredients.
569
00:24:59,080 --> 00:25:01,640
Adding in a tablespoon of
water helps the process.
570
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:05,000
So, what we have here is almonds.
571
00:25:05,000 --> 00:25:08,080
These are uncooked
almonds, they taste great.
572
00:25:08,080 --> 00:25:09,600
That are chopped up.
573
00:25:09,600 --> 00:25:10,880
Just put them in a
blender, prrrrr, and yeah,
574
00:25:10,880 --> 00:25:11,960
they're done.
575
00:25:16,240 --> 00:25:17,400
- A little bit of salt.
576
00:25:20,120 --> 00:25:21,360
- And we grate the lemon,
577
00:25:22,960 --> 00:25:25,080
and we get the rind of the lemon in there.
578
00:25:26,160 --> 00:25:28,520
We've beaten two egg whites.
579
00:25:30,160 --> 00:25:32,120
- Yeah, just lightens it up.
580
00:25:32,120 --> 00:25:33,680
(placid music)
581
00:25:33,680 --> 00:25:35,160
I've never seen this before.
582
00:25:36,360 --> 00:25:38,400
I've never tasted this before.
583
00:25:38,400 --> 00:25:39,240
- Sorry.
584
00:25:39,240 --> 00:25:40,960
- Normally, I've tasted
everything that Kyriakos's done
585
00:25:40,960 --> 00:25:43,120
at least half a dozen times.
586
00:25:43,120 --> 00:25:44,320
That's why I'm the size I am,
587
00:25:45,600 --> 00:25:47,600
but this one, I'm virgin to this,
588
00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:49,440
and I'm looking forward to trying it.
589
00:25:50,480 --> 00:25:53,640
At this stage, it's not
the best-looking emulation,
590
00:25:53,640 --> 00:25:55,320
but I'm sure it'll get better and better
591
00:25:55,320 --> 00:25:56,160
as we go.
592
00:25:59,000 --> 00:25:59,800
- That's ready.
593
00:25:59,800 --> 00:26:00,840
- Yes.
- Wow.
594
00:26:00,840 --> 00:26:01,920
- The stuff is ready.
595
00:26:01,920 --> 00:26:02,840
- The stuffing is ready,
596
00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:05,240
not stuff is ready.
597
00:26:05,240 --> 00:26:06,240
- Yeah, that's okay.
598
00:26:10,320 --> 00:26:11,600
- I love this.
599
00:26:11,600 --> 00:26:13,920
He was a trained pastry chef, this man.
600
00:26:13,920 --> 00:26:15,280
So, this is the real gee.
601
00:26:15,280 --> 00:26:17,600
We've got the real man here, right?
602
00:26:17,600 --> 00:26:19,280
We've got the gun, the Greek gun.
603
00:26:20,480 --> 00:26:22,160
I reckon I've probably got
the best chef in Greece.
604
00:26:22,160 --> 00:26:24,680
(placid music)
605
00:26:24,680 --> 00:26:25,480
You know that, don't you?
606
00:26:25,480 --> 00:26:27,400
You know you're the best chef in Greece?
607
00:26:27,400 --> 00:26:29,520
- No, no, no, he never, he's such.
608
00:26:29,520 --> 00:26:30,840
We started the syrup early
609
00:26:30,840 --> 00:26:32,200
because we want it to cool down,
610
00:26:32,200 --> 00:26:33,800
and as you can see, come to the boil,
611
00:26:33,800 --> 00:26:34,920
lemon's gone right through,
612
00:26:34,920 --> 00:26:36,080
and it's starting to cool down,
613
00:26:36,080 --> 00:26:37,640
ready for us to use later, let's go,
614
00:26:37,640 --> 00:26:38,760
what are we doing now?
615
00:26:40,720 --> 00:26:43,440
- We cut it in four, we cut
the phyllo pastry in four.
616
00:26:43,440 --> 00:26:46,280
(placid music)
617
00:26:46,280 --> 00:26:48,840
This seems like a fairly simple recipe,
618
00:26:48,840 --> 00:26:50,400
like everything you do, Kyriakos,
619
00:26:50,400 --> 00:26:51,240
okay.
620
00:26:54,320 --> 00:26:55,880
- The easiest is the best.
621
00:26:56,880 --> 00:26:58,240
My turn.
622
00:26:58,240 --> 00:26:59,800
- My turn, okay.
623
00:26:59,800 --> 00:27:03,960
Okay, let me. (speaks in foreign language)
624
00:27:06,000 --> 00:27:07,480
- I screwed that up.
625
00:27:07,480 --> 00:27:08,440
I've gotta use two.
626
00:27:08,440 --> 00:27:09,360
Sorry, Kyriakos.
627
00:27:09,360 --> 00:27:10,200
- No, it doesn't matter.
628
00:27:10,200 --> 00:27:11,960
- Sorry, Kyriakos.
629
00:27:11,960 --> 00:27:13,480
I've gotta take, I'm
gonna be doing, come on,
630
00:27:13,480 --> 00:27:15,120
you can't do everything there.
631
00:27:15,120 --> 00:27:16,680
And we'll just put the butter on,
632
00:27:16,680 --> 00:27:18,760
then we get the gear, let me do the gear.
633
00:27:18,760 --> 00:27:21,800
(placid music)
634
00:27:21,800 --> 00:27:22,600
Is that enough?
635
00:27:23,920 --> 00:27:25,360
- [Peter] Thank you, Kyriakos.
636
00:27:25,360 --> 00:27:28,240
We do this, then we do this.
637
00:27:28,240 --> 00:27:30,800
(placid music)
638
00:27:34,720 --> 00:27:36,960
(laughter)
639
00:27:37,880 --> 00:27:39,920
- Kyriakos's say that the way we're going,
640
00:27:39,920 --> 00:27:42,280
there's a good chance I
may not need him in future.
641
00:27:42,280 --> 00:27:44,160
Mate, no chance, no chance.
642
00:27:44,160 --> 00:27:45,160
Now, let's make you look good,
643
00:27:45,160 --> 00:27:46,800
'cause you've gotta look
good enough right now, okay?
644
00:27:46,800 --> 00:27:48,080
You handsome man, you.
645
00:27:48,080 --> 00:27:49,320
(placid music)
646
00:27:49,320 --> 00:27:51,520
I will never let Kyriakos leave me.
647
00:27:51,520 --> 00:27:53,200
(placid music)
648
00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:55,720
There's this fatal attraction.
649
00:27:55,720 --> 00:27:58,880
(placid music)
650
00:27:58,880 --> 00:28:00,760
Watching Kyriakos delicate hands at work
651
00:28:00,760 --> 00:28:02,160
was quite therapeutic.
652
00:28:02,160 --> 00:28:04,880
You can tell he's done it
countless times before.
653
00:28:04,880 --> 00:28:06,040
I reckon you can do the whole row.
654
00:28:06,040 --> 00:28:08,640
(placid music)
655
00:28:10,920 --> 00:28:13,400
Once the tray is full with
a single layer of roles,
656
00:28:13,400 --> 00:28:14,440
we then brush the top of them
657
00:28:14,440 --> 00:28:16,240
with a healthy amount
of the melted butter.
658
00:28:16,240 --> 00:28:17,720
(placid music)
659
00:28:17,720 --> 00:28:19,280
So, they get a bit of a colour
660
00:28:19,280 --> 00:28:20,400
before we put them in the oven,
661
00:28:20,400 --> 00:28:23,360
and we're gonna put them in the oven for.
662
00:28:23,360 --> 00:28:25,520
- We're gonna put them in
the oven for 30 minutes.
663
00:28:27,000 --> 00:28:28,800
- At about 160 degrees.
664
00:28:34,720 --> 00:28:35,800
(laughter)
665
00:28:35,800 --> 00:28:36,920
(screaming)
666
00:28:36,920 --> 00:28:38,080
- With 30 minutes to kill,
667
00:28:38,080 --> 00:28:40,920
we had just enough time
to baptise the new crew.
668
00:28:40,920 --> 00:28:41,760
There's a tradition in Greece.
669
00:28:41,760 --> 00:28:43,480
They just throw their
girls into the water.
670
00:28:43,480 --> 00:28:44,600
All this Sheilas is
going down to the water.
671
00:28:44,600 --> 00:28:46,360
Look at this, it
happening here, right now.
672
00:28:46,360 --> 00:28:47,760
(placid music)
673
00:28:47,760 --> 00:28:49,520
One, two, three.
674
00:28:50,800 --> 00:28:53,640
(water splashing)
675
00:28:53,640 --> 00:28:55,440
This is a baptism.
676
00:28:55,440 --> 00:28:57,000
They're very religious people here.
677
00:28:57,000 --> 00:28:57,800
(placid music)
678
00:28:57,800 --> 00:28:59,000
But where's the priest?
679
00:28:59,000 --> 00:28:59,840
(placid music)
680
00:28:59,840 --> 00:29:01,160
Where's the priest, you're baptising her,
681
00:29:01,160 --> 00:29:02,160
where's the priest?
682
00:29:03,280 --> 00:29:04,840
(laughter)
683
00:29:04,840 --> 00:29:05,920
You do it everyday?
684
00:29:05,920 --> 00:29:07,160
Fantastic.
685
00:29:07,160 --> 00:29:08,000
(placid music)
686
00:29:08,000 --> 00:29:08,920
What a life.
687
00:29:08,920 --> 00:29:12,000
(placid music)
(pastry cracking)
688
00:29:12,000 --> 00:29:12,920
Ah, listen to the sound.
689
00:29:12,920 --> 00:29:14,480
(placid music)
(pastry cracking)
690
00:29:14,480 --> 00:29:16,920
Wow, that sound, tshhhhhh.
691
00:29:17,760 --> 00:29:18,760
(placid music)
692
00:29:18,760 --> 00:29:19,720
It was only fitting
693
00:29:19,720 --> 00:29:22,040
that we celebrate the
newly baptised crew members
694
00:29:22,040 --> 00:29:24,000
by indulging in some local sweets.
695
00:29:24,000 --> 00:29:25,280
(placid music)
696
00:29:25,280 --> 00:29:26,880
I'm not gonna grab the knife, nah.
697
00:29:26,880 --> 00:29:28,560
I'm gonna do it by hand,
hey, that's the best way.
698
00:29:28,560 --> 00:29:33,560
(placid music)
(pastry cracking)
699
00:29:34,360 --> 00:29:35,200
Mmm.
700
00:29:36,440 --> 00:29:40,880
Now, a lot of these Greek
sweets look similar,
701
00:29:40,880 --> 00:29:44,000
but you can definitely taste
the Mastiha and the almond.
702
00:29:44,000 --> 00:29:45,600
Kyriakos, it's beautiful.
703
00:29:48,800 --> 00:29:50,480
- And he's saying that
the aroma comes out more
704
00:29:50,480 --> 00:29:52,640
in the Mastiha when it cooks.
705
00:29:52,640 --> 00:29:54,600
I must say, it's very nice.
706
00:29:54,600 --> 00:29:56,680
The good thing about this
is Kyriakos said to me
707
00:29:56,680 --> 00:29:59,320
that it keeps for two
or three days, just out,
708
00:29:59,320 --> 00:30:00,920
don't refrigerator it,
709
00:30:00,920 --> 00:30:03,280
and if you're not big
on sugar in the syrup,
710
00:30:03,280 --> 00:30:04,560
you can put honey on it.
711
00:30:04,560 --> 00:30:05,360
Awesome.
712
00:30:10,400 --> 00:30:12,640
(laughter)
713
00:30:14,720 --> 00:30:16,240
- Crew's already taken half of it.
714
00:30:16,240 --> 00:30:18,800
(placid music)
715
00:30:32,320 --> 00:30:34,880
(upbeat music)
716
00:30:42,240 --> 00:30:46,880
Behind me, Lesvos, third
largest island in Greece.
717
00:30:46,880 --> 00:30:51,320
Next to me, separated by a
400 metre straight, is Chios,
718
00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:53,360
fifth largest island in Greece.
719
00:30:53,360 --> 00:30:55,560
In front of me, is Turkey.
720
00:30:56,880 --> 00:30:58,720
We are on Inousses.
721
00:30:59,720 --> 00:31:03,360
Now, I thought Psara was
small at 44 square kilometres,
722
00:31:03,360 --> 00:31:06,960
but this place is only
17 square kilometres.
723
00:31:06,960 --> 00:31:09,280
So, you wouldn't think it'd have much,
724
00:31:09,280 --> 00:31:13,520
but it's famous for it's
seamen and shipping families.
725
00:31:13,520 --> 00:31:16,680
There are more shipping families
per square kilometre here
726
00:31:16,680 --> 00:31:18,560
than anywhere else, probably in the world,
727
00:31:18,560 --> 00:31:20,280
but definitely in Greece.
728
00:31:20,280 --> 00:31:22,000
30 shipping families.
729
00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:22,880
Why?
730
00:31:22,880 --> 00:31:24,240
Well, I'm gonna find out.
731
00:31:24,240 --> 00:31:26,800
(placid music)
732
00:31:28,960 --> 00:31:31,440
From the southern end of
Chios we cruise north,
733
00:31:31,440 --> 00:31:34,640
skirting past Turkey before
arriving in Oinousses .
734
00:31:34,640 --> 00:31:35,760
I'd originally planned to spend
735
00:31:35,760 --> 00:31:37,800
just 24 hours checking the place out.
736
00:31:37,800 --> 00:31:40,560
After all, it's only a tiny island.
737
00:31:40,560 --> 00:31:43,160
In then end, I stayed here for three days.
738
00:31:43,160 --> 00:31:45,680
In fact, I loved Oinousses so much,
739
00:31:45,680 --> 00:31:48,800
that I started look at
possibly settling here one day,
740
00:31:48,800 --> 00:31:50,800
but I'll have to run that by Helen first.
741
00:31:50,800 --> 00:31:52,840
(placid music)
742
00:31:52,840 --> 00:31:54,960
So, you were a captain,
your father was a captain,
743
00:31:54,960 --> 00:31:56,320
your grandfather was a captain.
744
00:31:56,320 --> 00:31:57,200
- [George] My father-in-law.
745
00:31:57,200 --> 00:31:58,680
- [Peter] Your father
in law was a captain.
746
00:31:58,680 --> 00:32:03,040
- So, and also, all my friends here,
747
00:32:03,040 --> 00:32:04,640
also they have the same story.
748
00:32:05,480 --> 00:32:09,040
They go back, if you look
inside the family trees,
749
00:32:09,040 --> 00:32:10,600
it's all seamanship.
750
00:32:10,600 --> 00:32:13,480
When the first settlers came from Chios,
751
00:32:13,480 --> 00:32:17,120
mostly they had cattles and agriculture,
752
00:32:17,120 --> 00:32:19,400
and they start living here,
753
00:32:19,400 --> 00:32:20,240
but of course,
754
00:32:20,240 --> 00:32:24,000
this island cannot feed them
all in this kind of job.
755
00:32:24,000 --> 00:32:27,120
So, they turned to sea,
they trained for fishing.
756
00:32:27,120 --> 00:32:30,640
They built and they bought
small sailing boats,
757
00:32:30,640 --> 00:32:33,840
and they start operating
the boats themselves.
758
00:32:33,840 --> 00:32:37,480
As a seaman and as merchants
between the islands,
759
00:32:37,480 --> 00:32:40,840
they start carrying cargoes
from one place to the other
760
00:32:40,840 --> 00:32:45,840
from Minor Asia to the Greek
islands, even to the Black Sea,
761
00:32:46,120 --> 00:32:47,800
and they were successful.
762
00:32:47,800 --> 00:32:51,080
(placid music)
763
00:32:51,080 --> 00:32:51,880
- [Peter] Oinousses has been called
764
00:32:51,880 --> 00:32:54,200
the cradle of the Greek shipping fortunes.
765
00:32:54,200 --> 00:32:57,560
Numerous wealthy merchant
families have their origins here,
766
00:32:57,560 --> 00:32:59,760
and with such a long maritime history,
767
00:32:59,760 --> 00:33:02,760
the identity of the island
is intrinsically tied to it.
768
00:33:02,760 --> 00:33:06,360
However, in antiquity, it
was famed for its wine.
769
00:33:06,360 --> 00:33:08,400
Maybe it was shipping wine
around the Mediterranean
770
00:33:08,400 --> 00:33:10,080
that started their seafaring ways.
771
00:33:10,080 --> 00:33:11,960
(placid music)
772
00:33:11,960 --> 00:33:13,440
You may have been to Beverley Hills
773
00:33:13,440 --> 00:33:16,720
to see the houses of the
rich and famous, come here.
774
00:33:17,600 --> 00:33:20,040
There has never been such a concentration
775
00:33:20,040 --> 00:33:22,920
of wealthy families in
one little district.
776
00:33:22,920 --> 00:33:26,240
Here, in this region
here, is the Limos family.
777
00:33:26,240 --> 00:33:28,880
Daughter, daughter, son, son,
778
00:33:28,880 --> 00:33:32,080
further down is the
Hadjipateras, it goes on and on.
779
00:33:32,080 --> 00:33:34,680
(placid music)
780
00:33:43,680 --> 00:33:45,480
One thing you'll notice
when you come to Oinousses ,
781
00:33:45,480 --> 00:33:47,840
and you'll see it straight away,
782
00:33:47,840 --> 00:33:50,840
is the heavy investment in infrastructure
783
00:33:50,840 --> 00:33:53,160
and the cleanliness of the place,
784
00:33:53,160 --> 00:33:55,520
and that's because of some
of these wealthy families
785
00:33:55,520 --> 00:33:57,160
investing back in their island.
786
00:33:57,160 --> 00:33:58,280
Have a loot,
787
00:33:58,280 --> 00:34:00,320
they've even got their
own football stadium,
788
00:34:00,320 --> 00:34:02,320
and there's a theatre right behind it.
789
00:34:02,320 --> 00:34:03,560
It's really impressive.
790
00:34:06,120 --> 00:34:07,840
They've also invested
heavily in the development
791
00:34:07,840 --> 00:34:09,480
of the waterfront marina,
792
00:34:09,480 --> 00:34:11,520
but perhaps their greatest legacy
793
00:34:11,520 --> 00:34:13,840
is the creation of the
Merchant Marina Academy.
794
00:34:14,720 --> 00:34:16,840
It has 200 cadets at any one time,
795
00:34:16,840 --> 00:34:19,960
and it's considered one of
Greece's leading institutions.
796
00:34:19,960 --> 00:34:23,160
Pantelis Vatousis is the
commander of the Academy.
797
00:34:23,160 --> 00:34:24,360
His personal experience
798
00:34:24,360 --> 00:34:26,560
and passion for the maritime way of life
799
00:34:26,560 --> 00:34:27,760
makes him a perfect person
800
00:34:27,760 --> 00:34:30,240
to lead future generations of seafarers.
801
00:34:30,240 --> 00:34:33,120
Commander, there's a big
tradition here in Oinousses .
802
00:34:33,120 --> 00:34:35,800
How do you feel about that tradition
803
00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:38,800
and your responsibility here?
804
00:34:38,800 --> 00:34:41,080
- Basically, I mean to
farther the philosophy,
805
00:34:41,080 --> 00:34:43,760
is to connect the past with the future.
806
00:34:43,760 --> 00:34:47,160
Oinousses have a long nautical history.
807
00:34:48,080 --> 00:34:52,600
Many Oinoussians started from
seamen and become ship owners.
808
00:34:53,560 --> 00:34:57,120
The name of Oinousses
surpassed the county's borders,
809
00:34:57,120 --> 00:34:59,800
and reached in the edge of the world.
810
00:34:59,800 --> 00:35:02,000
If you walk in the coastal road,
811
00:35:02,000 --> 00:35:03,280
there is a monument
812
00:35:03,280 --> 00:35:05,720
of Plataea of (speaks
in foreign language).
813
00:35:05,720 --> 00:35:08,920
There are many Oinoussians
who lost their lives
814
00:35:08,920 --> 00:35:11,640
in both peace and wartime.
815
00:35:11,640 --> 00:35:13,280
After that, in the port,
816
00:35:13,280 --> 00:35:16,600
there is a statue of Oinoussian mother
817
00:35:16,600 --> 00:35:20,800
who is shaking her scarf,
saying goodbye to the children
818
00:35:20,800 --> 00:35:23,160
who left Oinousses for the ships.
819
00:35:23,160 --> 00:35:24,560
This is our tradition.
820
00:35:24,560 --> 00:35:28,320
This is the heritage we want
to instil to the students.
821
00:35:28,320 --> 00:35:31,440
That's our goal and I'm
proud to be involved
822
00:35:31,440 --> 00:35:32,480
in this procedure.
823
00:35:32,480 --> 00:35:35,560
- Commander, that's awesome,
you should be proud.
824
00:35:35,560 --> 00:35:36,520
It's a great tradition,
825
00:35:36,520 --> 00:35:38,520
and I can see that you're continuing on.
826
00:35:38,520 --> 00:35:39,880
- Thank you.
827
00:35:39,880 --> 00:35:42,320
- [Peter] Container ships,
tankers, and bulk carriers
828
00:35:42,320 --> 00:35:44,280
are necessary for world trade,
829
00:35:44,280 --> 00:35:46,600
and this island has turned
out many of the young men
830
00:35:46,600 --> 00:35:49,120
that captain these important vessels.
831
00:35:49,120 --> 00:35:50,200
These a number of mega fleets
832
00:35:50,200 --> 00:35:52,400
held by the 30 odd shipping families
833
00:35:52,400 --> 00:35:54,120
originating from this island.
834
00:35:54,120 --> 00:35:56,640
In fact, the largest
merchant navy in the world
835
00:35:56,640 --> 00:35:58,280
is in the hands of Greeks,
836
00:35:58,280 --> 00:36:01,080
and a quarter of the
owners come from here.
837
00:36:01,080 --> 00:36:04,280
It's hard to fathom the
impact this tiny island
838
00:36:04,280 --> 00:36:08,080
with a population of under 900
people has had on the world,
839
00:36:08,080 --> 00:36:09,560
but Oinousses has more to offer
840
00:36:09,560 --> 00:36:11,600
than just its maritime legacy.
841
00:36:11,600 --> 00:36:13,640
No one knows anything about this island,
842
00:36:13,640 --> 00:36:15,880
so the beaches are devoid of tourists,
843
00:36:15,880 --> 00:36:18,040
and if you visit one of the
two taverns on the island,
844
00:36:18,040 --> 00:36:20,960
all you'll find are retired
captains in their 80s.
845
00:36:20,960 --> 00:36:22,760
In 15 minutes, I've
driven around the island.
846
00:36:22,760 --> 00:36:25,440
I've noticed half a
dozen beautiful beaches.
847
00:36:25,440 --> 00:36:27,400
It's not known for beaches,
848
00:36:27,400 --> 00:36:28,920
but they look awesome.
849
00:36:28,920 --> 00:36:30,960
There's even a cafeteria down there.
850
00:36:32,480 --> 00:36:33,920
Nobody there.
851
00:36:33,920 --> 00:36:34,920
Maybe 'cause it's early.
852
00:36:34,920 --> 00:36:37,520
(placid music)
853
00:36:50,240 --> 00:36:54,200
Stunning scenery, empty beaches,
and great food and wine,
854
00:36:54,200 --> 00:36:56,600
Oinousses really does have it all.
855
00:36:56,600 --> 00:36:57,840
Surely now you can understand
856
00:36:57,840 --> 00:36:59,680
why I was thinking I could retire here.
857
00:36:59,680 --> 00:37:02,240
(placid music)
858
00:37:05,880 --> 00:37:08,480
(upbeat music)
859
00:37:16,320 --> 00:37:19,000
- [Dimitris] In the Byzantine period.
860
00:37:19,000 --> 00:37:21,800
- [Peter] The narrow channel
between Chios and Oinousses
861
00:37:21,800 --> 00:37:25,320
is and always has been
a major shipping route.
862
00:37:25,320 --> 00:37:26,920
Consequently, throughout history,
863
00:37:26,920 --> 00:37:28,280
there have been a number of ships wrecked
864
00:37:28,280 --> 00:37:29,520
in these tight waters,
865
00:37:29,520 --> 00:37:30,320
and only recently,
866
00:37:30,320 --> 00:37:32,360
one such wreck has been
discovered on the sea bed.
867
00:37:32,360 --> 00:37:34,320
- We have quite a lot of wrecks.
868
00:37:34,320 --> 00:37:36,640
- [Peter] So, what period are
we talking about, this wreck?
869
00:37:36,640 --> 00:37:41,640
- This wreck is of the sixth,
fifth, sixth century A.D.
870
00:37:42,600 --> 00:37:45,600
That means that we are really
in the late antiquities,
871
00:37:45,600 --> 00:37:48,000
the beginning of the Byzantine period.
872
00:37:48,000 --> 00:37:50,600
It is a very interesting period, in fact,
873
00:37:50,600 --> 00:37:53,880
because everything was change
in the east Mediterranean
874
00:37:53,880 --> 00:37:55,600
in that period.
875
00:37:55,600 --> 00:37:59,600
The Roman Empire starts
slowly, slowly to go down,
876
00:37:59,600 --> 00:38:00,600
they have separated
877
00:38:00,600 --> 00:38:04,440
between Byzantium Constantinople and Rome,
878
00:38:04,440 --> 00:38:06,280
and so, everything was changing.
879
00:38:06,280 --> 00:38:09,800
We have a real political
change in that period,
880
00:38:09,800 --> 00:38:13,680
but as usual, the trade
is always continued.
881
00:38:13,680 --> 00:38:15,680
Even then, even when we have wars,
882
00:38:15,680 --> 00:38:17,680
even when we have conflicts,
883
00:38:17,680 --> 00:38:21,040
we have always the trade that goes on,
884
00:38:21,040 --> 00:38:24,200
and exactly, these shipwrecks prove that.
885
00:38:24,200 --> 00:38:28,440
Of course it's not so nice
to dive in a shipwreck
886
00:38:28,440 --> 00:38:30,920
because it in fact is an accident.
887
00:38:30,920 --> 00:38:33,320
It's something that mustn't happen,
888
00:38:33,320 --> 00:38:38,320
but it's only what we have
as indication of this trade,
889
00:38:38,880 --> 00:38:42,280
that it was so, so important
for the east Mediterranean,
890
00:38:42,280 --> 00:38:45,240
for all the period of the
eastern Mediterranean.
891
00:38:45,240 --> 00:38:47,200
We located it 10 years ago.
892
00:38:47,200 --> 00:38:49,880
So, I think it's, also for us,
893
00:38:49,880 --> 00:38:52,760
it's very interesting to go
back there to the shipwreck
894
00:38:52,760 --> 00:38:54,840
and see the condition of the shipwreck,
895
00:38:54,840 --> 00:38:56,040
to see how it's going on.
896
00:38:56,040 --> 00:38:58,400
How all this pile of amphoras
897
00:38:58,400 --> 00:39:00,320
they are still remaining to the ship.
898
00:39:00,320 --> 00:39:02,720
I hope that we are going
to find it. (laughs)
899
00:39:02,720 --> 00:39:04,040
- Look after me down there, okay?
900
00:39:04,040 --> 00:39:04,880
- Don't worry.
901
00:39:04,880 --> 00:39:06,560
- Let's go, let's go, mate, let's go.
902
00:39:06,560 --> 00:39:09,120
(placid music)
903
00:39:11,000 --> 00:39:12,240
- We were extremely lucky
904
00:39:12,240 --> 00:39:13,960
to be diving on a calm day.
905
00:39:13,960 --> 00:39:15,600
These waters have strong currents
906
00:39:15,600 --> 00:39:17,280
and are generally quite rough,
907
00:39:17,280 --> 00:39:19,400
meaning visibility can be poor.
908
00:39:19,400 --> 00:39:22,560
The wreck has been dived
on only a handful of times.
909
00:39:22,560 --> 00:39:25,840
So, my expectations were
high, and I wasn't let down.
910
00:39:25,840 --> 00:39:29,520
There were hundreds of
amphora, many unbroken,
911
00:39:29,520 --> 00:39:33,000
and looking exactly as
they did 1,500 years ago.
912
00:39:33,000 --> 00:39:36,680
Once filled with wine and olive
oil on route to Asia Minor,
913
00:39:36,680 --> 00:39:38,760
these guys never got to their destination.
914
00:39:38,760 --> 00:39:42,400
Instead, they're buried here,
30 metres below sea level,
915
00:39:42,400 --> 00:39:44,480
centuries later revealing their secrets
916
00:39:44,480 --> 00:39:46,480
to archaeologists and historians.
917
00:39:46,480 --> 00:39:49,040
(placid music)
918
00:39:54,960 --> 00:39:57,200
Discoveries like these
help us better understand
919
00:39:57,200 --> 00:39:59,120
the world that once was.
920
00:39:59,120 --> 00:40:01,840
The incredible thing is
throughout the Mediterranean
921
00:40:01,840 --> 00:40:04,680
there are hundreds if
not thousands of wrecks
922
00:40:04,680 --> 00:40:07,080
lying undiscovered on the seafloor.
923
00:40:07,080 --> 00:40:10,000
Who knows what treasures
and stories they hold.
924
00:40:10,000 --> 00:40:12,160
Some day, divers may find
relics on these wrecks
925
00:40:12,160 --> 00:40:14,840
that will almost
certainly rewrite history.
926
00:40:14,840 --> 00:40:17,360
I was ectatic just looking and dreaming
927
00:40:17,360 --> 00:40:20,600
of what may have happened
here over a 1,000 years ago.
928
00:40:20,600 --> 00:40:23,160
(placid music)
929
00:40:29,680 --> 00:40:32,720
From an ancient shipwreck
that's only now being researched
930
00:40:32,720 --> 00:40:35,960
to a centuries old hilltop
town with a well-known story,
931
00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:37,840
we made our way back to Chios to refuel
932
00:40:37,840 --> 00:40:39,400
and take on provisions.
933
00:40:39,400 --> 00:40:42,640
Ahead was a long journey
south to the Cycladic Islands,
934
00:40:42,640 --> 00:40:43,760
but before going there,
935
00:40:43,760 --> 00:40:46,160
I had one final place I wanted to visit.
936
00:40:46,160 --> 00:40:48,800
It's a location that's ruggedly beautiful,
937
00:40:48,800 --> 00:40:50,240
but with a sombre tale.
938
00:40:50,240 --> 00:40:51,480
(cicadas chirping)
939
00:40:51,480 --> 00:40:52,960
Amongst the beautiful villages
940
00:40:52,960 --> 00:40:54,680
with their pink and orange stone,
941
00:40:54,680 --> 00:40:56,840
there's also some tragic stories,
942
00:40:56,840 --> 00:40:58,200
reminiscent of many villages
943
00:40:58,200 --> 00:41:00,200
throughout Greece and the Mediterranean.
944
00:41:01,280 --> 00:41:04,320
Anavatos, meaning inaccessible,
945
00:41:04,320 --> 00:41:06,640
and as you can see, it
looks pretty inaccessible,
946
00:41:06,640 --> 00:41:10,760
but during the War of Independence,
the Ottomans attacked.
947
00:41:11,880 --> 00:41:13,800
What happened next
948
00:41:13,800 --> 00:41:17,040
lives in the memory of
all of the islanders here.
949
00:41:17,040 --> 00:41:18,320
It's unforgettable.
950
00:41:18,320 --> 00:41:20,680
(cicadas chirping)
951
00:41:20,680 --> 00:41:24,160
Once a densely populated
11th Century town,
952
00:41:24,160 --> 00:41:26,640
Anavatos today has a population of one,
953
00:41:26,640 --> 00:41:29,080
just a single octogenarian
lives here on her own.
954
00:41:29,080 --> 00:41:31,680
Smaragda is actually 83 years old,
955
00:41:31,680 --> 00:41:34,520
and somehow manages to
play backgammon on her own.
956
00:41:34,520 --> 00:41:36,120
She's a very energetic lady,
957
00:41:36,120 --> 00:41:37,200
which I'm sure you'd have to be
958
00:41:37,200 --> 00:41:39,600
to live here in such isolation.
959
00:41:39,600 --> 00:41:42,480
The hike up to the fortress
town is well worth the effort.
960
00:41:42,480 --> 00:41:45,040
You're rewarded with fantastic views,
961
00:41:45,040 --> 00:41:45,880
but best of all,
962
00:41:45,880 --> 00:41:48,160
you get the chance to
walk through the ruins.
963
00:41:49,160 --> 00:41:50,520
The problem with this place
964
00:41:52,160 --> 00:41:55,560
is not the steep walk or the hot day,
965
00:41:56,520 --> 00:41:57,520
it's my producer.
966
00:41:58,840 --> 00:42:00,520
He wants to shoot every single angle
967
00:42:00,520 --> 00:42:05,520
because there's so much
picturesque stuff around here.
968
00:42:05,840 --> 00:42:07,080
It's absolutely gorgeous.
969
00:42:08,000 --> 00:42:09,800
Have a look at it.
970
00:42:09,800 --> 00:42:13,080
Wow. (breathing heavily)
971
00:42:18,720 --> 00:42:21,400
(sand grinding)
972
00:42:26,000 --> 00:42:29,800
This tiny building is actually
the biggest building here.
973
00:42:29,800 --> 00:42:31,400
It's three floors.
974
00:42:31,400 --> 00:42:33,760
On the ground floor, you
have the olive press,
975
00:42:33,760 --> 00:42:36,600
on the second floor, you have the school,
976
00:42:36,600 --> 00:42:38,880
and this last floor is the church.
977
00:42:40,280 --> 00:42:41,360
Although in ruin,
978
00:42:41,360 --> 00:42:44,000
the fortress still has
a powerful presence.
979
00:42:44,000 --> 00:42:46,680
The stone walls are ominous yet striking.
980
00:42:46,680 --> 00:42:47,960
The chirping cicadas
981
00:42:47,960 --> 00:42:50,160
have replaced the noise
of the human inhabitants
982
00:42:50,160 --> 00:42:51,600
that once lived here.
983
00:42:51,600 --> 00:42:53,960
There's an artistic beauty to the place,
984
00:42:53,960 --> 00:42:56,680
yet behind it, is a tragic story.
985
00:42:56,680 --> 00:43:01,400
Archaeologists have found
remnants from 800 A.D.,
986
00:43:03,440 --> 00:43:05,280
and for 1,000 years,
987
00:43:06,280 --> 00:43:10,040
the people here protected
themselves from the pirates.
988
00:43:10,040 --> 00:43:12,480
1822, the Turks laid siege.
989
00:43:12,480 --> 00:43:14,480
They overwhelmed the whole village.
990
00:43:14,480 --> 00:43:17,920
It was Lent, and there were
people in the church in liturgy.
991
00:43:17,920 --> 00:43:21,120
The Turks burnt the church
down, burnt these people alive.
992
00:43:21,120 --> 00:43:22,600
The men were all killed.
993
00:43:22,600 --> 00:43:24,560
Some of the women and
children that were left
994
00:43:24,560 --> 00:43:26,600
didn't wanna be enslaved or raped,
995
00:43:26,600 --> 00:43:29,680
joined hands, and jumped of the cliff.
996
00:43:29,680 --> 00:43:32,240
(placid music)
997
00:43:33,960 --> 00:43:37,680
It's a harrowing tale told in
the most dramatic of settings.
998
00:43:37,680 --> 00:43:40,800
These ruins now act as a
reminder of a dark past
999
00:43:40,800 --> 00:43:42,720
which will hopefully never be repeated.
1000
00:43:42,720 --> 00:43:43,680
(placid music)
1001
00:43:43,680 --> 00:43:46,520
So, we finished our first
leg in the Northern Aegean,
1002
00:43:46,520 --> 00:43:48,360
but now we head to Syros
1003
00:43:48,360 --> 00:43:51,160
for our second leg of
this wonderful journey.
1004
00:43:51,160 --> 00:43:54,320
Our girl, Mia Zoi, two 2,800 horsepower,
1005
00:43:54,320 --> 00:43:58,960
V-16 MTU motors that
guzzle a lot of diesel.
1006
00:43:58,960 --> 00:44:01,600
At 28 knots, we do about
1,000 litres an hour,
1007
00:44:01,600 --> 00:44:02,680
and we're filling up right now
1008
00:44:02,680 --> 00:44:05,600
with about 15,000 litres of fuel.
1009
00:44:06,440 --> 00:44:08,280
It's a lot of fuel.
1010
00:44:08,280 --> 00:44:09,200
Anyway, I think I might go
1011
00:44:09,200 --> 00:44:10,960
and give the captain a bit of a hand.
1012
00:44:10,960 --> 00:44:13,520
(placid music)
1013
00:44:15,920 --> 00:44:18,320
With the first part of the
series coming to an end,
1014
00:44:18,320 --> 00:44:21,240
it's time to start work on
the next leg of the journey.
1015
00:44:21,240 --> 00:44:22,960
My Greek Odyssey has so far taken in
1016
00:44:22,960 --> 00:44:25,000
the Argolic and Saronic gulfs,
1017
00:44:25,000 --> 00:44:26,720
we've travelled through
the Ionian Islands,
1018
00:44:26,720 --> 00:44:28,520
and across the Northern Aegean.
1019
00:44:28,520 --> 00:44:31,320
Next episode, we're headed
south to the Cyclades.
1020
00:44:31,320 --> 00:44:34,520
It's a region best known
for Santorini and Mykonos,
1021
00:44:34,520 --> 00:44:35,760
but my exploration will show you
1022
00:44:35,760 --> 00:44:37,680
there's a lot more to see and do
1023
00:44:37,680 --> 00:44:40,320
in this spectacular and
historic part of Greece.
1024
00:44:40,320 --> 00:44:42,880
(placid music)
77252
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