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(upbeat guitar music)
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- In the first series,
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I began unravelling the
story of this spectacular
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and historic nation,
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by travelling from Athens
around the Peloponnese and up
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to the Ionian Islands.
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It took in parts of the country
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that lots of tourists know well.
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But in amongst the popular
places were hidden gems,
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undiscovered by the holiday masses.
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This series, I'm back onboard
my beautiful boat Mia Zoi,
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and heading to a region of Greece
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I hadn't spent much time in.
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The plan is to skip between the islands,
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taking in the sights
of the Northern Aegean.
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It'll be a journey of discovery,
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where I'll be digging
deeper into the fabric
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that makes Greece so unique.
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And immersing myself in
a centuries-old culture,
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unlike anywhere else on Earth.
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In this episode, I'll be
exploring 7000 years of history,
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from one of the earliest
settlements in Europe,
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to a modern day Air Force base.
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Plus, I'll learn about the
local cuisine and landscapes
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of Lemnos that make it so special.
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Lemnos has a very unique geography,
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shaped a bit like a W or a horse.
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It's separated by the Gulf of
(speaking in foreign language)
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in the north, and the Bay
of Moudros in the south.
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And the Bay of Moudros
is very significant.
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It's one of the largest
naturally formed bays in Greece.
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It also has major ecological significance
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for the migrating birds.
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Historically, it's the gathering point
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for the allied fleet before
the Gallipoli campaign
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in World War I.
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But I look at it now and
it's serene and beautiful.
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The view from the mountain
at Katakolo gives you a
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great understanding of
the island's topography.
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If you have the time,
it's also worth visiting
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one of the quaint villages
for a coffee or a bite to eat.
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Unfortunately, I had to
quickly get back to the boat
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at Gomati Beach so we could head out
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to our next destination.
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Our journey took us around
the northwest coast,
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then south to port town of Myrina.
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As the capital of Lemnos, it's
also the most populous town,
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with over 5000 people calling it home.
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It has a beautiful port
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and as many taverns as fishing boats.
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The stone paved alleys
add to the old world charm
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created by the mix of period architecture
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and nearby ruins.
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It exudes character, and
thanks to its beaches,
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charming laneways, history,
hotels and restaurants,
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Myrina is perfect for tourists.
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With so much to see, I
enlisted the help of Nikoleta.
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She's a culturalist and
a guide who loves sharing
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her knowledge with visitors.
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So these are the Myrina shops, right?
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- Yes, this is the heart of the town.
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- The heart of the town, oh okay.
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So tell me, Nikoleta,
you're a culturalist.
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You work with your father
in an electrical shop.
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You work at a hotel.
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- Yes.
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- You help guiding as well.
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You know a lot of history.
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What don't you do?
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You do everything, don't you?
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- I don't travel most.
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That's my complain.
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- Yeah?
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- I don't have free time to travel.
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- What I want to know
is when do you sleep?
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I mean you're working all through the day.
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You're working at night
until two in the morning.
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You've been up since eight
o'clock this morning.
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When do you sleep?
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- Sleep is for older people.
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(laughing)
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- A lot of the young Greek
people from the islands,
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small islands like this,
leave and go elsewhere.
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Why haven't you left?
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- During winter, I travel in the mainland.
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And during summer, I do this job
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because I like to talk about
my beauty of the island.
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I like to show the beautiful things,
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how amazing is life in the island.
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- Now you're selling the island to me.
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Come on.
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Don't sell the island to me.
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- Maybe.
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- Come on, let's go up to the castle.
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- Let's go.
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(serene music)
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- Tell me a bit about this castle.
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- It has about 150 cannons, 14 towers,
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and each wall reaches
up to 120 metres high.
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- [Peter] Has it been conquered?
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- [Nikoleta] No, never.
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- [Peter] Never been conquered?
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- [Nikoleta] Never.
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- [Peter] Are you sure about that?
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- [Nikoleta] Yes.
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(serene music)
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- [Peter] This is pretty enormous.
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I can understand why
it was never conquered.
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- Yes, this is one of the two entrances.
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The main entrance is at the south side.
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And the second entrance
is at the northern side.
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(serene music)
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- This here looks like
it's more Venetian than...
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- It was rebuilded many
times by Venetians,
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Byzantians, and then Ottomans.
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It gained today's form during
the Turkish domination,
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while this rocky hill has
been inhabited since the
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Neolithic age.
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All of the walls, or a
big part of the castle,
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it was rebuilded by the Ottomans.
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- The different phases of
the fortress are clearly
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visible as you walk towards the top.
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There's the caves from
when it was occupied
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during the Neolithic period,
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then the various stages of development
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on top of one another,
taking us through Byzantine,
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Venetian, and finally Ottoman occupation.
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It spans a huge area and provides views of
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the harbour, city and far out to sea.
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Wow, Nikoleta, I look at the size now,
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when you talk about 110000 square metres,
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now I'm feeling the size of this place.
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I can see that during war,
the whole island would have
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been protected here.
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- Exactly.
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- They would have all come here
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and this is the capital
of Lemnos, isn't it?
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- [Nikoleta] Yes.
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- So tell me something.
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Why do they call it Lemnos?
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- The first option is that it derives from
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two ancient words (speaking
in foreign language)
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which means herd and
(speaking in foreign language)
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which means sheep because the island
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is an agricultural land.
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And the second version,
it's that derives from
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an ancient Phoenician
word which means wide
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because of the impression
that gives to the traveller
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sailing towards the island.
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- The castle stands between
the two bays of Myrina.
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On the north is the Roman shore,
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which dates back to Byzantine rule,
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when the Greeks, known then as Romans,
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occupied the area.
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Then to the south is the Turkish shore,
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where during Ottoman
rule, the Turks resided.
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Joining the two is the market street,
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the heart of the town.
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(serene music)
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Well, I tell you what.
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It's late in the day.
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We've had a big day
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and I need to have my afternoon siesta,
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so can we go back to the bay?
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- I agree with you.
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- Thank you very much.
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(kissing)
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According to legend,
there was a period of time
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when the women for Lemnos
neglected worship of
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Aphrodite, so to punish them,
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the goddess gave them a bad body odour.
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This led to the husbands
importing concubines from Thrace.
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In retaliation the Lemnian
women then drugged their men
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before pushing them from the cliff
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here at the peninsula of the
(speaking in foreign language).
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The moral of the story is,
don't cross the local ladies.
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(upbeat music)
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(guitar music)
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The topography here is unlike
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the majority of Greek islands.
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Between the mountains
there are fertile plains
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where crops like wheat,
barley and sesame are grown.
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It's long been a bread basket of Greece.
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In fact, Lemnos was
Constantinople's granary
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during Byzantine times.
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In those days, everything
was done by hand.
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The earth was tilled using beasts
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and what today takes a matter of hours
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would have been several days' toil.
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Compared to modern crops,
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the yield would have
been relatively small.
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More efficient farming
practises and better seed
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means a larger harvest.
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Still today, once the
locals have what they need,
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the remainder is shipped
around the country
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and actually what's grown on an island
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is going to influence the local cuisine.
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Here, they made a noodle-like
pasta called flomari
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and after an early start and no breakfast,
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I was starving.
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So this is the flomari.
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This is local to Lemnos only.
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- Yes, fine and tasty.
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- And what's this?
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- It's Melichloro.
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It's grated Melichloro.
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- Oh that's nice.
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- It's a yellow cheese.
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- Wow, yeah.
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Okay, let's do it man.
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What do we do?
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- First we will boil the flomari.
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- Let's do that.
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- We already prepared the water, just so.
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We'll put some salt first.
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- Right.
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And we put the flomari in
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and what we do, we boil it up, do we?
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- Yeah, 10 minutes it's fine.
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- 10 minutes.
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- They are thin so it's enough 10 minutes.
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- [Peter] Fantastic, I'm hungry.
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Let's make the rest less than 10 minutes.
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- [Alexander] Yes, I told you.
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- If we do that, can we push it along?
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(laughing)
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- Fantastic.
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An occasional stir between
grating the cheeses
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keeps the pasta separated.
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Here in Lemnos they make
the white Kalathaki cheese
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and the yellow Melichloro.
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The form of the two makes a
base layer in the dish before
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the flomari is added on top.
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Oh yeah, that looks nice.
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What's this made with?
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- Egg, local type of flour
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and goat and sheep milk.
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- About an inch of pasta
is followed by a layer of
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Melichloro, before yet another
coating of flomari was added.
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Very quick recipe.
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I love this recipe.
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Beautiful olive oil, the aroma.
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- Let's finish with the cheese.
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We will put the rest here, a lot of,
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because it's the finishing
and we need more.
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- [Peter] We only put
the yellow cheese on.
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We don't put the...
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- [Alexander] Yes.
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- [Peter] The Kalathaki.
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00:09:46,160 --> 00:09:47,440
- [Alexander] We need to be crispy.
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- [Peter] Right, okay.
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- Let's do the best part of the recipe.
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- Wow.
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And this makes it crispy.
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Ooh, wow.
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- [Alexander] Come closer
if you want to smell.
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00:10:01,600 --> 00:10:04,120
- It's sizzling and I'll tell you what.
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00:10:04,120 --> 00:10:07,880
I'm sitting down, ready to eat this.
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I'm in the mood for this and all.
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I'm starved, man.
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And it's warming up.
262
00:10:13,800 --> 00:10:15,880
The cheese is melting
now through the pasta.
263
00:10:15,880 --> 00:10:16,720
- Exactly.
264
00:10:16,720 --> 00:10:18,400
- 'Cause the pasta's already hot.
265
00:10:18,400 --> 00:10:19,560
- Yeah.
266
00:10:19,560 --> 00:10:23,040
- [Peter] I can see it's a
hard crust now on the surface.
267
00:10:23,040 --> 00:10:24,520
- I think we are ready.
268
00:10:24,520 --> 00:10:26,200
- I hope Helen is watching this.
269
00:10:26,200 --> 00:10:27,800
Helen, I hope you're watching this.
270
00:10:27,800 --> 00:10:30,160
It's important that you
make this for me, okay?
271
00:10:30,160 --> 00:10:31,040
Can we try it?
272
00:10:31,040 --> 00:10:31,880
- Of course you can.
273
00:10:31,880 --> 00:10:32,800
- Let's bring a plate over.
274
00:10:32,800 --> 00:10:33,680
Let's go, let's go, let's go.
275
00:10:33,680 --> 00:10:34,520
Oh yeah.
276
00:10:38,120 --> 00:10:39,160
Just give me a fork, man.
277
00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:40,040
I'm starved.
278
00:10:40,040 --> 00:10:40,880
Come on.
279
00:10:40,880 --> 00:10:41,680
That's enough, right.
280
00:10:41,680 --> 00:10:42,520
Let's go, let's go.
281
00:10:42,520 --> 00:10:43,360
I'm starved, buddy.
282
00:10:43,360 --> 00:10:44,200
- Here's your fork.
283
00:10:44,200 --> 00:10:47,160
- The smell, the aroma and
the way you put it together.
284
00:10:47,160 --> 00:10:48,120
- And the Melichloro.
285
00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:49,360
- Hang on.
286
00:10:57,360 --> 00:10:58,560
It's very different.
287
00:10:58,560 --> 00:10:59,400
It's very different.
288
00:10:59,400 --> 00:11:00,760
I've never tried anything like that.
289
00:11:00,760 --> 00:11:03,760
The cheese and the
pasta are very different
290
00:11:03,760 --> 00:11:04,600
to what I'm used to.
291
00:11:04,600 --> 00:11:05,440
- Okay.
292
00:11:05,440 --> 00:11:06,280
- They're very nice.
293
00:11:06,280 --> 00:11:08,200
Your grandma was a gun, mate.
294
00:11:08,200 --> 00:11:09,240
She was awesome.
295
00:11:09,240 --> 00:11:10,520
- Yeah, she was, she was.
296
00:11:10,520 --> 00:11:11,360
- Is she still alive?
297
00:11:11,360 --> 00:11:14,360
- No, she passed away four years now.
298
00:11:14,360 --> 00:11:16,680
- Well, mate, she's living
through this recipe.
299
00:11:16,680 --> 00:11:17,520
- Yes, sure.
300
00:11:17,520 --> 00:11:18,520
- You're a legend, buddy.
301
00:11:18,520 --> 00:11:19,520
- Thanks.
302
00:11:19,520 --> 00:11:20,360
- You're a legend, man.
303
00:11:20,360 --> 00:11:21,200
You're a legend.
304
00:11:21,200 --> 00:11:22,000
Thank you very much.
305
00:11:22,000 --> 00:11:22,840
- Nice to see you.
306
00:11:22,840 --> 00:11:23,680
- Now you can go, 'cause I'm
gonna finish eating this.
307
00:11:23,680 --> 00:11:24,520
- Okay.
308
00:11:24,520 --> 00:11:27,000
- Maybe I should just go
straight for that, you know,
309
00:11:27,000 --> 00:11:28,160
put my fork.
310
00:11:28,160 --> 00:11:32,160
That way, they can't have any, no?
311
00:11:32,160 --> 00:11:33,880
- Now you can choose
the part that you like.
312
00:11:33,880 --> 00:11:34,720
- Yeah, that's right.
313
00:11:34,720 --> 00:11:35,800
That's right.
314
00:11:39,880 --> 00:11:40,880
It's good, isn't it?
315
00:11:42,000 --> 00:11:44,240
- [Alexander] It's amazing.
316
00:11:49,840 --> 00:11:53,320
- I'm getting deep into the Melichloro.
317
00:11:53,320 --> 00:11:54,120
Then the Kalathaki--
318
00:11:54,120 --> 00:11:56,240
- Kalathaki, where is it?
319
00:11:59,080 --> 00:12:02,680
- With a full stomach of
local pasta and cheese,
320
00:12:02,680 --> 00:12:05,080
my journey around Lemnos continued.
321
00:12:05,080 --> 00:12:08,160
Immediately I noticed a
complete lack of traffic.
322
00:12:08,160 --> 00:12:10,320
Here I'm in the peak of holiday season,
323
00:12:10,320 --> 00:12:14,000
on a beautiful island, and
there are barely any tourists.
324
00:12:14,000 --> 00:12:16,800
It never ceases to amaze me
how most people find themselves
325
00:12:16,800 --> 00:12:18,360
in the usual haunts.
326
00:12:18,360 --> 00:12:20,480
It's as though the travel
agents only know a few of
327
00:12:20,480 --> 00:12:23,240
Greece's islands, so
they send everyone there,
328
00:12:23,240 --> 00:12:26,800
while just off the beaten
track are places like this
329
00:12:26,800 --> 00:12:29,440
that are just as awesome,
only half the price,
330
00:12:29,440 --> 00:12:32,080
and with plenty of open space.
331
00:12:32,080 --> 00:12:34,480
I prefer to be away from the crowds,
332
00:12:34,480 --> 00:12:36,960
where the pace is slower,
so maybe I should keep
333
00:12:36,960 --> 00:12:39,280
a few of these islands to myself.
334
00:12:39,280 --> 00:12:43,080
(footsteps crunching on sand)
335
00:12:44,560 --> 00:12:49,560
We're here in Aliki,
18000 square metres of,
336
00:12:50,800 --> 00:12:55,400
my understanding, the
largest inland salt lakes
337
00:12:55,400 --> 00:12:57,280
in all of Europe.
338
00:12:57,280 --> 00:13:02,200
But more importantly, it's
very significant ecologically.
339
00:13:02,200 --> 00:13:06,440
It's a migrating path for
almost 30 species of bird.
340
00:13:06,440 --> 00:13:09,720
Even the flamingo, yes,
the flamingo comes here,
341
00:13:09,720 --> 00:13:13,120
almost 5000 of them in winter.
342
00:13:13,120 --> 00:13:15,320
It's absolutely enormous.
343
00:13:15,320 --> 00:13:16,960
And have a look at this salt.
344
00:13:16,960 --> 00:13:18,400
It's really special.
345
00:13:18,400 --> 00:13:20,320
Just underneath it is a bit of water.
346
00:13:20,320 --> 00:13:21,160
You can feel it.
347
00:13:21,160 --> 00:13:22,000
It's very pungent.
348
00:13:22,000 --> 00:13:25,880
But that crystal structure,
you'd think they'd mine
349
00:13:25,880 --> 00:13:28,040
for salt here, but they
don't let them do that,
350
00:13:28,040 --> 00:13:31,280
because it's protected by the
European Union and the Greeks.
351
00:13:31,280 --> 00:13:32,680
They protect it well.
352
00:13:32,680 --> 00:13:34,720
Yes, there's a few
footsteps here and there,
353
00:13:34,720 --> 00:13:36,320
but it's an awesome place.
354
00:13:36,320 --> 00:13:37,160
You gotta come here.
355
00:13:37,160 --> 00:13:38,400
It's fantastic.
356
00:13:38,400 --> 00:13:41,200
(uplifting music)
357
00:13:50,240 --> 00:13:53,560
Aliki spans an area of
1600 acres with a couple of
358
00:13:53,560 --> 00:13:56,520
kilometres of sand dunes
separating it from the coast.
359
00:13:56,520 --> 00:13:58,440
In winter, the lake fills with water,
360
00:13:58,440 --> 00:14:00,400
and with that comes the nesting birds.
361
00:14:00,400 --> 00:14:02,040
However, during the summer months,
362
00:14:02,040 --> 00:14:03,320
it's quite the contrast,
363
00:14:03,320 --> 00:14:06,560
turning into a salt pan
with seemingly little life.
364
00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:09,440
The salt crust of it goes
as far as you can see.
365
00:14:09,440 --> 00:14:12,640
And a walk across it gives
you a feeling of isolation.
366
00:14:12,640 --> 00:14:14,960
It's barren, hot and dry.
367
00:14:14,960 --> 00:14:16,960
What's more, the glare
is like being in the snow
368
00:14:16,960 --> 00:14:20,080
on a sunny day, so you
definitely need sunglasses.
369
00:14:20,080 --> 00:14:22,120
If you do come here, take a selfie
370
00:14:22,120 --> 00:14:24,200
and see if anyone can pick where you are.
371
00:14:24,200 --> 00:14:26,640
Most will probably think central Australia
372
00:14:26,640 --> 00:14:27,920
or somewhere in Africa.
373
00:14:27,920 --> 00:14:30,640
It's hard to imagine Greece
has landscapes like this.
374
00:14:30,640 --> 00:14:33,480
(uplifting music)
375
00:14:46,120 --> 00:14:48,720
(guitar music)
376
00:15:02,880 --> 00:15:04,480
When most people think of Ancient Greece,
377
00:15:04,480 --> 00:15:06,800
it's about the classical period,
378
00:15:06,800 --> 00:15:08,280
which is about 450 BC.
379
00:15:08,280 --> 00:15:11,200
That was the time of the
Peloponnesian and Persian Wars,
380
00:15:11,200 --> 00:15:13,640
when Greece had influence
over the Roman Empire
381
00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:15,960
and Alexander The Great roamed the Earth.
382
00:15:15,960 --> 00:15:18,120
However, long before
that, there were people
383
00:15:18,120 --> 00:15:19,560
living here in Lemnos.
384
00:15:19,560 --> 00:15:23,160
So we're talking about 7000 years ago.
385
00:15:23,160 --> 00:15:24,080
- Exactly.
386
00:15:24,080 --> 00:15:24,920
- Wow.
387
00:15:25,840 --> 00:15:28,520
To give me some insight into
the city that once stood here,
388
00:15:28,520 --> 00:15:31,400
I met with archaeologist Anastasia Souri.
389
00:15:31,400 --> 00:15:33,040
What sort of period are we talking about?
390
00:15:33,040 --> 00:15:37,760
- It has started about 5000
BC and ended about 1200 BC.
391
00:15:39,040 --> 00:15:40,160
- [Peter] 4000 years.
392
00:15:40,160 --> 00:15:40,960
- Exactly.
393
00:15:40,960 --> 00:15:42,560
- [Peter] Is this one
civilization for 4000 years?
394
00:15:42,560 --> 00:15:45,360
- Yes, it was one civilization,
but all the buildings
395
00:15:45,360 --> 00:15:49,280
that we're gonna see, it has
seven architectural periods.
396
00:15:49,280 --> 00:15:50,120
- [Peter] In that 4000 years.
397
00:15:50,120 --> 00:15:52,000
- Yes, because of the earthquakes,
398
00:15:52,000 --> 00:15:55,400
because of the weather, because
of the bad circumstances,
399
00:15:55,400 --> 00:15:56,400
probably war.
400
00:15:57,680 --> 00:16:00,240
- The town was called Poliochne
and it's believed to be
401
00:16:00,240 --> 00:16:03,640
Europe's first city with basic
social and civic structure.
402
00:16:03,640 --> 00:16:06,040
It prospered because of
its safe mooring facilities
403
00:16:06,040 --> 00:16:08,120
and the location made it
an excellent trade link
404
00:16:08,120 --> 00:16:10,480
between the Aegean and Asia Minor.
405
00:16:10,480 --> 00:16:13,240
From here, goods from the
Far East and even Africa
406
00:16:13,240 --> 00:16:15,000
could find their way into Europe.
407
00:16:15,000 --> 00:16:17,640
It's main rival and trading
partner was the legendary
408
00:16:17,640 --> 00:16:18,680
city of Troy.
409
00:16:18,680 --> 00:16:20,560
I can see a town here.
410
00:16:20,560 --> 00:16:22,080
The road, it's so clear,
411
00:16:22,080 --> 00:16:22,920
and you've got the sea.
412
00:16:22,920 --> 00:16:24,200
It's absolutely magnificent, isn't it?
413
00:16:24,200 --> 00:16:26,760
- Yeah, of course, this is
the main road of the city.
414
00:16:26,760 --> 00:16:28,520
It goes all around the whole city,
415
00:16:28,520 --> 00:16:31,400
and from the other side, we
cannot see it very clearly
416
00:16:31,400 --> 00:16:34,480
right now, but it's the
Asia Minor and actually
417
00:16:34,480 --> 00:16:38,040
it's the Troy that the city
that Heinrich Schliemann found.
418
00:16:38,040 --> 00:16:40,040
- The wealth of Poliochne is most apparent
419
00:16:40,040 --> 00:16:41,960
in the ruins of the mansions.
420
00:16:41,960 --> 00:16:45,000
The palace-like megarons
would have housed the wealthy
421
00:16:45,000 --> 00:16:47,600
who no doubt lived in relative luxury.
422
00:16:47,600 --> 00:16:49,720
- There are many houses,
very small houses,
423
00:16:49,720 --> 00:16:52,640
but there were many social
standings in this area.
424
00:16:52,640 --> 00:16:55,480
We found three or probably four megaron
425
00:16:55,480 --> 00:16:57,040
where the rich people used to stay.
426
00:16:57,040 --> 00:16:59,400
- [Peter] Right and is
this one of them, is it?
427
00:16:59,400 --> 00:17:00,240
- Of course.
428
00:17:00,240 --> 00:17:02,840
One room, two steps, second room.
429
00:17:02,840 --> 00:17:04,360
As you can see, it's very big.
430
00:17:08,880 --> 00:17:10,240
- I can see the sort of space here.
431
00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:11,680
It looks like a roundabout.
432
00:17:11,680 --> 00:17:13,160
- Oh, no, no, it's not.
433
00:17:13,160 --> 00:17:15,360
It's a central square of the city.
434
00:17:15,360 --> 00:17:16,520
- Wow!
435
00:17:16,520 --> 00:17:18,160
- Yes, you can see of course the well.
436
00:17:18,160 --> 00:17:21,240
It was also the oven in this area,
437
00:17:21,240 --> 00:17:24,560
so they would come here and
it belongs to the community.
438
00:17:24,560 --> 00:17:26,800
They were melting the metals.
439
00:17:26,800 --> 00:17:28,040
- So this is where it all happened.
440
00:17:28,040 --> 00:17:29,640
This is where people congregated.
441
00:17:29,640 --> 00:17:30,480
- Exactly.
442
00:17:30,480 --> 00:17:31,880
- So where's the Parliament building?
443
00:17:31,880 --> 00:17:33,040
I'm waiting for the Parliament building.
444
00:17:33,040 --> 00:17:34,600
- We'll have to walk
just a little bit more.
445
00:17:34,600 --> 00:17:35,520
- Let's go.
- Let's go.
446
00:17:35,520 --> 00:17:38,440
(guitar music)
447
00:17:38,440 --> 00:17:40,920
- [Peter] From above, you can
see the order and structure
448
00:17:40,920 --> 00:17:41,760
of the city.
449
00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:43,320
The scale is awe-inspiring.
450
00:17:46,360 --> 00:17:48,920
- And of course this is
the most important building
451
00:17:48,920 --> 00:17:49,840
in this area.
452
00:17:49,840 --> 00:17:51,080
It's the granary.
453
00:17:51,080 --> 00:17:53,920
In this area we found thousands of seeds,
454
00:17:53,920 --> 00:17:57,520
so it was very, very
important for the community,
455
00:17:57,520 --> 00:17:58,800
for the life in the community,
456
00:17:58,800 --> 00:18:00,840
especially in the winter.
457
00:18:00,840 --> 00:18:01,680
- It's amazing.
458
00:18:01,680 --> 00:18:02,480
It's huge.
459
00:18:02,480 --> 00:18:05,520
So this basically fed this
whole community through winter,
460
00:18:05,520 --> 00:18:07,040
so they stored it in summer
461
00:18:07,960 --> 00:18:09,400
and in winter, they had this granary.
462
00:18:09,400 --> 00:18:10,440
It's unbelievable.
463
00:18:10,440 --> 00:18:14,160
You can really tell that
this was an organised city.
464
00:18:14,160 --> 00:18:15,000
- [Anastasia] Exactly.
465
00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:16,360
- [Peter] Wow.
466
00:18:16,360 --> 00:18:19,080
- But I'd like to show you
the most important building
467
00:18:19,080 --> 00:18:19,920
in this area.
468
00:18:19,920 --> 00:18:20,800
It's the Parliament.
469
00:18:20,800 --> 00:18:24,640
It has two rows of
seats, so all the elders
470
00:18:24,640 --> 00:18:26,760
of the community, they
used to go in this area
471
00:18:26,760 --> 00:18:29,320
to talk about the
problems of the community
472
00:18:29,320 --> 00:18:31,760
and also the reason that we have focused,
473
00:18:31,760 --> 00:18:35,160
and we call this the area
of the democracy of Lemnos,
474
00:18:35,160 --> 00:18:36,760
is because from the other side,
475
00:18:36,760 --> 00:18:39,120
like we saw before, it was the granary,
476
00:18:39,120 --> 00:18:41,320
so two public buildings at the same area,
477
00:18:41,320 --> 00:18:42,560
close to the main gate.
478
00:18:42,560 --> 00:18:47,560
- Wow, I mean I now
understand from the depth
479
00:18:48,920 --> 00:18:51,640
that we've gone through
here, basically you've got
480
00:18:51,640 --> 00:18:55,680
military, you've got a food
source, and you've got politics
481
00:18:55,680 --> 00:18:57,080
all together in this community.
482
00:18:57,080 --> 00:18:58,720
It's absolutely awesome.
483
00:18:58,720 --> 00:19:00,640
I've been to Akrotiri in Santorini
484
00:19:00,640 --> 00:19:02,320
and it's raised up there,
485
00:19:02,320 --> 00:19:04,800
but this is the best site I've ever seen.
486
00:19:04,800 --> 00:19:05,800
- I totally agree with you.
487
00:19:05,800 --> 00:19:08,040
- Yeah, you know, this
is absolutely awesome.
488
00:19:11,160 --> 00:19:12,720
This may well have been the birth place of
489
00:19:12,720 --> 00:19:14,480
modern urban living.
490
00:19:14,480 --> 00:19:16,160
It was remarkable to be standing in
491
00:19:16,160 --> 00:19:18,520
Europe's first organised town,
492
00:19:18,520 --> 00:19:21,600
where people worked as
a community, grew crops,
493
00:19:21,600 --> 00:19:23,680
spawned the art of metallurgy
494
00:19:23,680 --> 00:19:25,560
and traded with the known world.
495
00:19:25,560 --> 00:19:28,120
(guitar music)
496
00:19:30,160 --> 00:19:32,120
From the old to the new.
497
00:19:32,120 --> 00:19:34,000
Just down the road was
a beach where the youth
498
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:35,960
gather for a bit of wind-powered fun,
499
00:19:35,960 --> 00:19:38,160
as well as some relaxation.
500
00:19:38,160 --> 00:19:41,120
As Ellie explains, the
meltemi or strong winds
501
00:19:41,120 --> 00:19:44,000
from the north, prevail in
these parts through summer.
502
00:19:44,000 --> 00:19:47,280
With this warm, dry air stream
come the thrill seekers.
503
00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:48,800
Right now it's a waiting game.
504
00:19:51,680 --> 00:19:52,880
They say Mykonos is a windy island,
505
00:19:52,880 --> 00:19:55,080
but this is the original
windy island, isn't it?
506
00:19:55,080 --> 00:19:59,400
- It is, it is, yeah, by the
name Anemoessa for Lemnos is
507
00:19:59,400 --> 00:20:01,640
like the island of the winds.
- What do you mean Anemoessa?
508
00:20:01,640 --> 00:20:04,920
- Anemoessa is the name that the locals
509
00:20:04,920 --> 00:20:07,440
are giving to Lemnos island.
510
00:20:07,440 --> 00:20:11,280
Means like the island of the wind.
511
00:20:11,280 --> 00:20:12,240
- Right.
512
00:20:12,240 --> 00:20:16,120
- It might be like not
as strong as Mykonos,
513
00:20:16,120 --> 00:20:18,920
but it's quite windy most of the days.
514
00:20:18,920 --> 00:20:20,520
So, Meltemi comes here.
515
00:20:20,520 --> 00:20:21,840
We have wind at the morning.
516
00:20:21,840 --> 00:20:25,680
Then it gets more chilled
after, like during afternoon.
517
00:20:25,680 --> 00:20:29,440
Like people that they enjoy
water sports can do them
518
00:20:29,440 --> 00:20:32,200
like during the morning
and then everyone else
519
00:20:32,200 --> 00:20:35,320
can enjoy the sea and
take a bath in the water
520
00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:36,720
during the afternoon.
521
00:20:36,720 --> 00:20:40,520
- So it's like my wife and
I, she likes flat water sail.
522
00:20:40,520 --> 00:20:42,120
I like the windy sports,
so I'll go in the morning
523
00:20:42,120 --> 00:20:43,600
and in the afternoon it's for her.
524
00:20:43,600 --> 00:20:46,560
- Yeah, for her or for
your kids to learn like,
525
00:20:46,560 --> 00:20:49,080
you see, like it's a paradise.
526
00:20:49,080 --> 00:20:51,120
- I see lots of kids out
there playing now, you know.
527
00:20:51,120 --> 00:20:51,960
- Yeah.
528
00:20:51,960 --> 00:20:54,560
- And I see a lot of strong
guys and strong women here,
529
00:20:54,560 --> 00:20:57,560
you know, a lot of hardcore sportsmen, eh?
530
00:20:57,560 --> 00:20:58,760
Sportspeople.
531
00:20:58,760 --> 00:20:59,960
- Athletic people, yeah.
532
00:20:59,960 --> 00:21:00,800
- Yeah, yeah, absolutely.
533
00:21:00,800 --> 00:21:01,680
Like you, you're really athletic.
534
00:21:01,680 --> 00:21:02,480
(laughing)
535
00:21:02,480 --> 00:21:03,320
- I look at you.
536
00:21:03,320 --> 00:21:04,920
I can see what windsurfing
does to your body.
537
00:21:04,920 --> 00:21:06,920
Check it out, you know.
538
00:21:06,920 --> 00:21:11,000
Keros Beach has excellent
facilities for water sports,
539
00:21:11,000 --> 00:21:13,640
along with beach bars and a restaurant.
540
00:21:13,640 --> 00:21:16,400
It's easy to see why the
young travellers like it here.
541
00:21:16,400 --> 00:21:18,880
You can swim and kite surf during the day
542
00:21:18,880 --> 00:21:20,720
and spend the evening
having a few cocktails
543
00:21:20,720 --> 00:21:21,720
at one of the bars.
544
00:21:24,080 --> 00:21:25,760
There's also a type of accommodation
545
00:21:25,760 --> 00:21:27,520
I've never had the pleasure of.
546
00:21:27,520 --> 00:21:31,160
It's glamorous camping, more
commonly known as glamping.
547
00:21:31,160 --> 00:21:33,880
It came about to service
nature-conscious travellers
548
00:21:33,880 --> 00:21:36,280
who wanted a bit of comfort
without the impact on the
549
00:21:36,280 --> 00:21:38,000
environment that resorts can have.
550
00:21:39,800 --> 00:21:42,560
It has a relaxed charm you
just don't find in a hotel.
551
00:21:42,560 --> 00:21:44,760
But it sure doesn't lack for comforts.
552
00:21:46,040 --> 00:21:48,120
After a day on the water,
it's hard to imagine
553
00:21:48,120 --> 00:21:49,880
a better place to rest and relax
554
00:21:49,880 --> 00:21:51,600
before doing it all again tomorrow.
555
00:21:53,680 --> 00:21:55,880
When the winds arrive,
the waters come alive
556
00:21:55,880 --> 00:21:57,040
with the kite surfers.
557
00:21:58,080 --> 00:22:00,720
In my youth, I'd probably
have given it a go.
558
00:22:00,720 --> 00:22:04,280
Now though I'd rather read a
book and sip on a cocktail.
559
00:22:04,280 --> 00:22:06,840
(upbeat music)
560
00:22:14,600 --> 00:22:17,160
(guitar music)
561
00:22:30,360 --> 00:22:33,800
Over the centuries, Greece
has had several ruling powers,
562
00:22:33,800 --> 00:22:35,840
some more impressive than others.
563
00:22:35,840 --> 00:22:38,640
During the Ottoman period, one
way they sought to maintain
564
00:22:38,640 --> 00:22:40,480
their control and repress the people
565
00:22:40,480 --> 00:22:42,640
was to crack down on Christianity.
566
00:22:42,640 --> 00:22:45,960
Non-Muslims across the empire
were second-class citizens
567
00:22:45,960 --> 00:22:47,440
and at a minimum had to pay
568
00:22:47,440 --> 00:22:49,040
the (speaking in foreign
language) which was a tax
569
00:22:49,040 --> 00:22:52,160
imposed upon them if they
wanted to practise their faith.
570
00:22:52,160 --> 00:22:54,920
In some corners of the domain,
they banned other religions
571
00:22:54,920 --> 00:22:57,400
altogether, which forced
people to observe their beliefs
572
00:22:57,400 --> 00:22:58,960
in secrecy.
573
00:22:58,960 --> 00:23:02,560
This oppression led to the
building of Panagia Kakaviotissa,
574
00:23:02,560 --> 00:23:04,200
a tiny church hidden in the mountains
575
00:23:04,200 --> 00:23:07,320
where the most faithful
of orthodox practitioners
576
00:23:07,320 --> 00:23:08,480
could still congregate.
577
00:23:11,120 --> 00:23:13,880
Nikoleta, it's not a short walk, is it?
578
00:23:13,880 --> 00:23:14,720
How long is it?
579
00:23:14,720 --> 00:23:18,560
- No, it's about one and a
half kilometres, far away.
580
00:23:18,560 --> 00:23:21,360
- One and a half kilometres,
but it's a beautiful walk.
581
00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:23,960
- Yes, it is and it's very peaceful.
582
00:23:23,960 --> 00:23:24,840
- Very peaceful.
583
00:23:24,840 --> 00:23:25,960
Only goats and us.
584
00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:27,000
- Yes.
585
00:23:27,000 --> 00:23:29,160
- But I feel like I could
be in Arizona, you know?
586
00:23:29,160 --> 00:23:30,800
It's amazing.
587
00:23:30,800 --> 00:23:32,000
The countryside's beautiful.
588
00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:34,200
- I haven't been, but I would like to go.
589
00:23:34,200 --> 00:23:35,080
- [Peter] You should.
590
00:23:35,080 --> 00:23:38,040
- (laughs) Wildflowers everywhere.
591
00:23:38,040 --> 00:23:40,400
- [Peter] I know, I know.
592
00:23:40,400 --> 00:23:41,400
- [Nikoleta] And thorns.
593
00:23:41,400 --> 00:23:43,640
Here we have many thorns.
594
00:23:43,640 --> 00:23:44,480
- [Peter] Yeah.
595
00:23:44,480 --> 00:23:45,400
- [Nikoleta] And with those
thorns, we used to put them
596
00:23:45,400 --> 00:23:50,400
in the oven in order to bake the bread.
597
00:23:50,520 --> 00:23:51,360
- Oh the bread.
598
00:23:51,360 --> 00:23:54,880
Where we were hiking to is a great example
599
00:23:54,880 --> 00:23:57,280
of the power that religion
can have over people.
600
00:23:59,000 --> 00:24:01,280
They're willing to risk
everything in order to come
601
00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:05,400
to a distant tiny church
to pray and hear sermons.
602
00:24:05,400 --> 00:24:08,640
It's a testament to how
devout they must have been.
603
00:24:09,840 --> 00:24:12,440
(gentle music)
604
00:24:14,480 --> 00:24:19,440
Wow, Nikoleta, this looks absolutely...
605
00:24:19,440 --> 00:24:20,520
- Unique?
606
00:24:20,520 --> 00:24:21,560
- Unique.
607
00:24:21,560 --> 00:24:23,720
I don't know if that's
enough of a word for it.
608
00:24:29,320 --> 00:24:31,280
And this is a church, right?
609
00:24:31,280 --> 00:24:33,480
- Yes, it used to be a monastery,
610
00:24:33,480 --> 00:24:36,760
but it's the only church in
the world without a roof.
611
00:24:36,760 --> 00:24:39,320
- The only roofless church,
but look at the view
612
00:24:39,320 --> 00:24:41,840
that the priests or the
monks would have had.
613
00:24:41,840 --> 00:24:44,960
I mean, there isn't a more
pleasant place to be serene.
614
00:24:44,960 --> 00:24:47,320
- Breath-taking and peaceful also.
615
00:24:47,320 --> 00:24:49,040
- So what is the history of this church?
616
00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:52,400
- It is known since the
13th century as a monastery.
617
00:24:52,400 --> 00:24:56,160
And the monks builded this
church by their own hands.
618
00:24:56,160 --> 00:24:59,600
The last monk gave the picture to a family
619
00:24:59,600 --> 00:25:03,080
that stays near the village
Kontias to preserve it
620
00:25:03,080 --> 00:25:05,720
and keep it through the years.
621
00:25:05,720 --> 00:25:09,560
And every second day after
Easter is the tradition
622
00:25:09,560 --> 00:25:12,160
but the church have
the annual celebration.
623
00:25:12,160 --> 00:25:13,120
- [Peter] Here.
624
00:25:13,120 --> 00:25:13,960
So it's just once a year.
625
00:25:13,960 --> 00:25:14,800
- Yes.
626
00:25:14,800 --> 00:25:15,640
- They only use this once a year.
627
00:25:15,640 --> 00:25:16,840
But I see all of these
icons, it's amazing.
628
00:25:16,840 --> 00:25:18,640
I might just have a quick look inside.
629
00:25:18,640 --> 00:25:20,840
I'm allowed to go in there, aren't I?
630
00:25:21,760 --> 00:25:22,640
No?
- No.
631
00:25:22,640 --> 00:25:23,480
- I shouldn't go in, eh?
632
00:25:23,480 --> 00:25:24,320
Okay, all right.
633
00:25:24,320 --> 00:25:25,120
Let me have a peak.
634
00:25:25,120 --> 00:25:25,960
- Okay.
635
00:25:28,400 --> 00:25:29,240
- Wow.
636
00:25:31,000 --> 00:25:34,480
It's fantastic that this
church is still here today.
637
00:25:34,480 --> 00:25:37,200
Apart from being a perfect
place for parishioners,
638
00:25:37,200 --> 00:25:40,080
it's also a fitting
reminder of past repression.
639
00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:42,720
Today we have religious freedom.
640
00:25:42,720 --> 00:25:45,680
That said, there's no
denying the church in Greece
641
00:25:45,680 --> 00:25:46,880
does wield some power.
642
00:25:49,400 --> 00:25:51,040
This is absolutely magnificent, isn't it?
643
00:25:51,040 --> 00:25:51,880
- Yes.
644
00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:56,680
- And the contrast to this
dark spot to the light
645
00:25:56,680 --> 00:26:00,440
it's just absolutely
magnificent, you know?
646
00:26:00,440 --> 00:26:03,440
- The hills, the agriculture around.
647
00:26:03,440 --> 00:26:04,360
- And it's so unique.
648
00:26:04,360 --> 00:26:06,160
We're in a spot that's
nowhere else in the world.
649
00:26:06,160 --> 00:26:07,000
This is it.
650
00:26:07,000 --> 00:26:07,800
- Exactly.
651
00:26:07,800 --> 00:26:08,640
- Fantastic.
652
00:26:10,880 --> 00:26:12,560
If you weren't aware of
the church's existence,
653
00:26:12,560 --> 00:26:14,840
you'd never find the place.
654
00:26:14,840 --> 00:26:17,080
You'd have to be pretty
lucky to be traipsing around
655
00:26:17,080 --> 00:26:19,560
the countryside, walking
through prickly bushes and
656
00:26:19,560 --> 00:26:22,840
scrambling over rocks to
stumble across the place.
657
00:26:22,840 --> 00:26:26,360
It's no wonder it remained
undiscovered by the Ottomans.
658
00:26:26,360 --> 00:26:28,960
(upbeat music)
659
00:26:31,200 --> 00:26:33,960
From a secluded mountain
church to a little known local
660
00:26:33,960 --> 00:26:36,720
cheese maker, it seems
this part of my journey
661
00:26:36,720 --> 00:26:38,640
is about discovering hidden gems.
662
00:26:38,640 --> 00:26:39,480
Tell me all about this.
663
00:26:39,480 --> 00:26:40,520
I see these baskets.
664
00:26:40,520 --> 00:26:41,680
I see milk there.
665
00:26:41,680 --> 00:26:42,800
I see this crate here.
666
00:26:42,800 --> 00:26:45,040
This is not the normal way
of making cheese, is it?
667
00:26:45,040 --> 00:26:47,720
- No, no, this is the most
traditional and oldest way
668
00:26:47,720 --> 00:26:51,400
that they were making
cheese many, many years ago.
669
00:26:51,400 --> 00:26:52,720
- So Rena, what are you doing right now?
670
00:26:52,720 --> 00:26:53,560
What is in here?
671
00:26:53,560 --> 00:26:54,400
What are you up to?
672
00:26:54,400 --> 00:26:59,280
- I have the milk in here,
which was, in which I have put
673
00:26:59,280 --> 00:27:01,920
the yeast before, and now it's time
674
00:27:01,920 --> 00:27:03,480
that I have to cut it off,
675
00:27:03,480 --> 00:27:06,120
so that I can put it in the small baskets.
676
00:27:06,120 --> 00:27:07,360
- What sort of milk is that?
677
00:27:07,360 --> 00:27:11,440
- It's 60% of goat and 40% of sheep.
678
00:27:11,440 --> 00:27:12,640
- I've never heard of that before
679
00:27:12,640 --> 00:27:15,360
where you mix goat's
milk with sheep's milk
680
00:27:15,360 --> 00:27:16,440
to make cheese.
681
00:27:16,440 --> 00:27:17,760
Is that just local in Lemnos, is it?
682
00:27:17,760 --> 00:27:19,640
- I think it's local in Lemnos.
683
00:27:19,640 --> 00:27:22,160
- And what do you call this cheese?
684
00:27:22,160 --> 00:27:24,840
- Depending on the way
you are preserving it
685
00:27:24,840 --> 00:27:27,400
afterwards, the one part is Kalathaki
686
00:27:27,400 --> 00:27:29,000
and the other is Melichloro.
687
00:27:29,000 --> 00:27:30,440
- So tell me what's gonna happen now.
688
00:27:30,440 --> 00:27:32,240
- Now I'm gonna take the little baskets.
689
00:27:32,240 --> 00:27:33,960
- The little kalathaki, as we say.
690
00:27:33,960 --> 00:27:35,280
- That's kalathaki, as we say.
691
00:27:35,280 --> 00:27:38,160
And I will put in the cheese
692
00:27:39,320 --> 00:27:41,360
and I will put it in here.
693
00:27:41,360 --> 00:27:43,160
- So it's straining through the basket.
694
00:27:43,160 --> 00:27:44,560
- That's right, to strain.
695
00:27:44,560 --> 00:27:45,960
And the liquid goes--
696
00:27:45,960 --> 00:27:48,200
- And the liquid goes into
this little thing here.
697
00:27:48,200 --> 00:27:49,920
Do you use that again?
698
00:27:49,920 --> 00:27:52,920
- [Rena] You can use it,
but we give it to the pigs.
699
00:27:52,920 --> 00:27:55,000
- And tell me, Rena, what
happens there therefore?
700
00:27:55,000 --> 00:27:56,080
What do you do?
701
00:27:56,080 --> 00:27:58,440
- [Rena] Then they will rest for one hour
702
00:27:58,440 --> 00:28:01,600
and in one hour, I will
turn them upside down.
703
00:28:01,600 --> 00:28:02,560
- How do you do that?
704
00:28:02,560 --> 00:28:03,360
What do you do?
705
00:28:03,360 --> 00:28:04,200
- I will take the cheese.
706
00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:05,080
I put it here.
707
00:28:05,080 --> 00:28:07,200
- So it's hardened by then, sort of hard.
708
00:28:07,200 --> 00:28:08,040
- That's right.
709
00:28:08,040 --> 00:28:08,880
- You turn it around.
710
00:28:08,880 --> 00:28:13,080
- You turn so that every
part of it takes the shape of
711
00:28:13,080 --> 00:28:13,920
the kalathaki.
712
00:28:13,920 --> 00:28:14,880
- Of that basket.
713
00:28:14,880 --> 00:28:16,040
- Yes.
714
00:28:16,040 --> 00:28:18,120
- And then you, what,
you turn it over, do you?
715
00:28:18,120 --> 00:28:18,960
- I turn it over.
716
00:28:18,960 --> 00:28:19,760
- And then what do you do after?
717
00:28:19,760 --> 00:28:22,120
- After an hour about, I put salt
718
00:28:22,120 --> 00:28:26,040
and then I leave it to
rest until next morning.
719
00:28:26,040 --> 00:28:27,000
- [Peter] The next day.
720
00:28:27,000 --> 00:28:30,960
- The next day and the next day
I take it out of the baskets
721
00:28:30,960 --> 00:28:34,560
and either I put it in a tin
with salt water if it's--
722
00:28:34,560 --> 00:28:35,640
- [Peter] In a brine solution
723
00:28:35,640 --> 00:28:38,480
- In a brine solution
if it is for kalathaki.
724
00:28:38,480 --> 00:28:39,320
- [Peter] Right.
725
00:28:39,320 --> 00:28:42,960
- Or I put it in a box in the
air, if it is for Melichloro.
726
00:28:45,480 --> 00:28:47,200
- In my travels through Greece,
727
00:28:47,200 --> 00:28:49,480
I've discovered that each
island has its own recipe
728
00:28:49,480 --> 00:28:51,440
for the production of cheese.
729
00:28:51,440 --> 00:28:53,600
There seems to be a
competitive posture amongst
730
00:28:53,600 --> 00:28:56,720
the islanders as to who produces the best.
731
00:28:56,720 --> 00:28:59,360
The number of variations is astronomical,
732
00:28:59,360 --> 00:29:03,320
from different mixes of goat,
sheep and even cow's milk,
733
00:29:03,320 --> 00:29:05,880
to varying curing times and methods.
734
00:29:05,880 --> 00:29:07,480
No two cheeses are alike.
735
00:29:07,480 --> 00:29:09,600
So the taste buds get a new experience
736
00:29:09,600 --> 00:29:12,720
from island to island,
sometimes even from village
737
00:29:12,720 --> 00:29:13,800
to nearby village.
738
00:29:15,320 --> 00:29:18,040
Rena's Lemnian kalathaki
cheese was right up there
739
00:29:18,040 --> 00:29:19,840
amongst the best I've tasted.
740
00:29:19,840 --> 00:29:23,960
It had a strong, vibrant
flavour that would be perfect
741
00:29:23,960 --> 00:29:27,360
accompaniment to a dry fig or
biscuit and a strong coffee.
742
00:29:27,360 --> 00:29:29,560
Delicious is an understatement.
743
00:29:29,560 --> 00:29:31,760
It's beautiful.
744
00:29:31,760 --> 00:29:32,600
- You like it?
745
00:29:32,600 --> 00:29:33,480
- Yeah, it's absolutely...
746
00:29:33,480 --> 00:29:34,840
It's got a (speaking in foreign language),
747
00:29:34,840 --> 00:29:35,680
a little bit of (speaking
in foreign language) .
748
00:29:35,680 --> 00:29:36,520
- Yes.
749
00:29:37,800 --> 00:29:39,600
- I'll tell you what, I think I might take
750
00:29:39,600 --> 00:29:42,040
Rena home with me, okay?
751
00:29:42,040 --> 00:29:42,960
(laughs)
752
00:29:42,960 --> 00:29:44,600
Helen, are you watching?
753
00:29:44,600 --> 00:29:45,520
What do I do, you know?
754
00:29:45,520 --> 00:29:46,600
She's a great cook.
755
00:29:46,600 --> 00:29:47,640
This is awesome stuff.
756
00:29:47,640 --> 00:29:48,440
(laughs)
757
00:29:48,440 --> 00:29:49,480
Thank you, love.
758
00:29:49,480 --> 00:29:51,720
(kissing)
759
00:29:51,720 --> 00:29:52,560
You're a doll.
760
00:29:52,560 --> 00:29:54,640
- Thank you.
761
00:29:54,640 --> 00:29:55,720
- Fantastic.
762
00:29:55,720 --> 00:29:58,320
(guitar music)
763
00:30:26,680 --> 00:30:28,520
I always rise early.
764
00:30:28,520 --> 00:30:32,280
However, today, I set
the alarm for four a.m.,
765
00:30:32,280 --> 00:30:34,800
because I had a rendez-vous
that was planned a year ago.
766
00:30:34,800 --> 00:30:37,160
I was spending the day
with fighter pilots of the
767
00:30:37,160 --> 00:30:39,240
130th Combat Group.
768
00:30:39,240 --> 00:30:41,520
These are the Hellenic Air Force's elite,
769
00:30:41,520 --> 00:30:44,120
flying the famous F-16 Falcons.
770
00:30:44,120 --> 00:30:48,040
They're on 24-hour alert,
ready to move in an instant.
771
00:30:48,040 --> 00:30:51,000
To show me around was third
in command of this 200-strong
772
00:30:51,000 --> 00:30:55,680
air base, Lieutenant Colonel
Jordanis Dan Giannakidis.
773
00:30:55,680 --> 00:30:59,960
- Wow, Lieutenant Colonel,
I've never been this close to
774
00:30:59,960 --> 00:31:03,000
a war plane, let alone an F-16.
775
00:31:03,000 --> 00:31:04,680
It looks absolutely awesome.
776
00:31:04,680 --> 00:31:07,680
- F-16 on alert status.
777
00:31:07,680 --> 00:31:09,480
- [Peter] Alert status, so this is ready
778
00:31:09,480 --> 00:31:10,320
to scramble anytime.
779
00:31:10,320 --> 00:31:11,400
- [Jordanis] Ready in five minutes.
780
00:31:11,400 --> 00:31:12,200
- [Peter] Five minutes?
781
00:31:12,200 --> 00:31:13,160
- [Jordanis] To be
airborne in five minutes.
782
00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:14,760
- [Peter] You fly in these planes.
783
00:31:14,760 --> 00:31:16,760
- [Jordanis] Yeah,
that's right, from 1997.
784
00:31:16,760 --> 00:31:18,720
- From 1997, you've been flying that long?
785
00:31:18,720 --> 00:31:20,920
Wow, can I have a look in there?
786
00:31:20,920 --> 00:31:21,840
- Yes, of course.
787
00:31:21,840 --> 00:31:23,600
Be careful not to touch any...
788
00:31:23,600 --> 00:31:24,480
- I won't touch a thing.
789
00:31:24,480 --> 00:31:26,000
Otherwise it will fly off, won't it?
790
00:31:26,000 --> 00:31:26,840
(laughs)
791
00:31:26,840 --> 00:31:28,040
We don't want to fly away, do we?
792
00:31:28,040 --> 00:31:28,880
I don't know about that.
793
00:31:28,880 --> 00:31:29,800
Maybe I do.
794
00:31:32,000 --> 00:31:33,800
How do you fit in there?
795
00:31:35,200 --> 00:31:36,640
Wow.
796
00:31:36,640 --> 00:31:38,960
It's such a small place, eh?
797
00:31:38,960 --> 00:31:40,720
- [Jordanis] Not enough
space for huge guys.
798
00:31:40,720 --> 00:31:44,000
- Oh listen, I get claustrophobic
with this thing, man.
799
00:31:44,000 --> 00:31:46,760
Whoa, that's heavy.
800
00:31:46,760 --> 00:31:49,680
(futuristic music)
801
00:31:54,480 --> 00:31:55,800
All the fighter jets on the base
802
00:31:55,800 --> 00:31:57,480
are fully armed and fueled,
803
00:31:57,480 --> 00:31:59,240
ready to go at a moment's notice.
804
00:32:00,120 --> 00:32:02,280
The crack unit of
well-trained professionals
805
00:32:02,280 --> 00:32:04,960
can have the planes airborne
within minutes of a call.
806
00:32:06,400 --> 00:32:09,080
The daily routine of
inspections and training
807
00:32:09,080 --> 00:32:10,560
with live weapons, mind you,
808
00:32:10,560 --> 00:32:12,920
is both rigorous and very dangerous.
809
00:32:12,920 --> 00:32:15,120
But they must stay at
the top of their game
810
00:32:15,120 --> 00:32:17,320
to ensure they remain a deterrent to war.
811
00:32:18,360 --> 00:32:21,400
For decades now they've
maintained an impeccable record
812
00:32:21,400 --> 00:32:23,400
of not having to fire a shot in anger.
813
00:32:24,280 --> 00:32:26,400
It's a testament to their dedication
814
00:32:26,400 --> 00:32:28,440
for sustaining peaceful resolutions.
815
00:32:30,520 --> 00:32:33,520
100 metres away from the
F-16s is the ready room,
816
00:32:33,520 --> 00:32:36,640
where the pilots eat, sleep
and wait for the call.
817
00:32:36,640 --> 00:32:38,320
Now though it was a morning briefing
818
00:32:38,320 --> 00:32:39,480
that had them on the line.
819
00:32:39,480 --> 00:32:41,400
I see, so what are we
looking at over there?
820
00:32:41,400 --> 00:32:42,520
These...
821
00:32:42,520 --> 00:32:43,520
- These are the helmets.
822
00:32:43,520 --> 00:32:47,480
The helmets are for the two
guys that are not right now
823
00:32:47,480 --> 00:32:50,320
on the duty, me and my colleague Vassilis.
824
00:32:50,320 --> 00:32:52,640
The other stuff are the J suit.
825
00:32:52,640 --> 00:32:54,040
- So they're actually
wearing their J suit.
826
00:32:54,040 --> 00:32:57,240
- They wear their J suit
because they have to spend
827
00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,120
one and a half or two minutes to wear it,
828
00:32:59,120 --> 00:33:01,240
because a lot of zips and stuff.
829
00:33:01,240 --> 00:33:02,080
- [Peter] Right.
830
00:33:02,080 --> 00:33:03,320
- So when you're five minutes out,
831
00:33:03,320 --> 00:33:05,280
you are already putting this.
832
00:33:05,280 --> 00:33:07,240
- This is a relaxing environment,
833
00:33:07,240 --> 00:33:11,840
but I can understand how
you've set it up here, it's...
834
00:33:11,840 --> 00:33:14,040
- It's a relaxing environment
until the phone rings.
835
00:33:14,040 --> 00:33:14,880
- Until the phone rings.
836
00:33:14,880 --> 00:33:16,680
- It's a...
837
00:33:16,680 --> 00:33:19,880
The sound is something that wakes you up.
838
00:33:19,880 --> 00:33:21,480
- I bet it does.
839
00:33:21,480 --> 00:33:23,720
I'm gonna sit her until the phone rings,
840
00:33:23,720 --> 00:33:24,880
however long it takes.
841
00:33:24,880 --> 00:33:26,600
I want to listen, I want
to watch what goes on.
842
00:33:26,600 --> 00:33:27,440
So how do,
843
00:33:27,440 --> 00:33:29,160
why do you scramble like that every day?
844
00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:30,480
What do you you actually have to get up?
845
00:33:30,480 --> 00:33:34,000
- You have to get up not
only to protect our homeland,
846
00:33:34,000 --> 00:33:37,920
and to assure that the flight information
847
00:33:37,920 --> 00:33:40,800
region's a safe place for everyone to fly,
848
00:33:40,800 --> 00:33:43,680
because we have invasions
every day from Turkish military
849
00:33:43,680 --> 00:33:47,600
aeroplanes carrying live weapons,
without any flight plans,
850
00:33:47,600 --> 00:33:49,120
without the required permission, yes.
851
00:33:49,120 --> 00:33:51,360
- [Peter] So they're
invading the Greek airspace
852
00:33:51,360 --> 00:33:53,480
at least twice a day.
853
00:33:53,480 --> 00:33:54,320
- Yes.
854
00:33:54,320 --> 00:33:55,160
- [Peter] And we're in Lemnos.
855
00:33:55,160 --> 00:33:57,240
That's just one airbase
we're talking about.
856
00:33:57,240 --> 00:33:59,880
So do you guys ever invade their airspace?
857
00:33:59,880 --> 00:34:01,560
- No, it's forbidden for us,
858
00:34:01,560 --> 00:34:06,560
and we don't want to provoke
and escalate the situation
859
00:34:07,200 --> 00:34:09,080
to an incident, for example.
860
00:34:09,080 --> 00:34:10,720
- [Peter] How does it feel for you,
861
00:34:10,720 --> 00:34:13,440
knowing this is your last
scramble that you'll ever do?
862
00:34:13,440 --> 00:34:16,400
- It's a little bit sad for me,
863
00:34:16,400 --> 00:34:20,680
because I have a lot of
experience here in this island
864
00:34:20,680 --> 00:34:23,160
with many friends and
865
00:34:23,160 --> 00:34:26,840
it was a very pleasant experience for me.
866
00:34:26,840 --> 00:34:31,040
- [Peter] And what about
you, for your first scramble?
867
00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:31,880
How do you...
868
00:34:31,880 --> 00:34:32,720
- Happy for the first time.
869
00:34:32,720 --> 00:34:33,560
- [Peter] You're happy.
870
00:34:33,560 --> 00:34:34,360
Of course you're happy!
871
00:34:34,360 --> 00:34:35,280
But it's your first scramble
872
00:34:35,280 --> 00:34:37,600
and yet you've got how
many hours on the F-16?
873
00:34:37,600 --> 00:34:39,040
- I have 200 hours.
874
00:34:39,040 --> 00:34:40,800
- [Peter] 200 hours and
this is your first scramble.
875
00:34:40,800 --> 00:34:42,680
That shows the experience
required obviously
876
00:34:42,680 --> 00:34:43,840
to get up there.
877
00:34:43,840 --> 00:34:45,240
So how do you feel like you're happy,
878
00:34:45,240 --> 00:34:47,200
but is there any tension or anything?
879
00:34:47,200 --> 00:34:49,680
- Look, it's in my mind difficult,
880
00:34:49,680 --> 00:34:54,680
but I have to be concentrate
on this, so I'll do my best.
881
00:34:56,040 --> 00:34:56,880
- And you're ready.
882
00:34:56,880 --> 00:34:57,680
- Yes.
883
00:34:57,680 --> 00:34:58,760
- You're ready anytime.
884
00:34:58,760 --> 00:35:02,880
200 men are supporting you, around you.
885
00:35:02,880 --> 00:35:03,720
That's amazing.
886
00:35:03,720 --> 00:35:04,520
It's like my business.
887
00:35:04,520 --> 00:35:06,720
I have a construction company.
888
00:35:06,720 --> 00:35:11,080
I have 200 people working for
me and there's about 5000 guys
889
00:35:11,080 --> 00:35:13,560
out there building the jobs,
you know, supporting me
890
00:35:13,560 --> 00:35:15,440
and supporting my directors.
891
00:35:15,440 --> 00:35:16,680
That's what you guys are.
892
00:35:16,680 --> 00:35:20,160
It's a, what you do is a
business and it's a business
893
00:35:20,160 --> 00:35:23,480
that you can't make mistakes
'cause if you make a mistake,
894
00:35:23,480 --> 00:35:26,960
let me tell you, all
Greeks are proud of you.
895
00:35:26,960 --> 00:35:29,200
We're proud of you because when you're in
896
00:35:29,200 --> 00:35:30,960
a defensive situation like you are,
897
00:35:30,960 --> 00:35:33,960
you're not provoking anyone,
and you're being provoked.
898
00:35:33,960 --> 00:35:37,280
In the position where you are,
it's almost like a cold war,
899
00:35:37,280 --> 00:35:38,840
although it's not war.
900
00:35:38,840 --> 00:35:41,520
You guys are doing the right thing.
901
00:35:41,520 --> 00:35:43,400
You're risking your lives every day
902
00:35:43,400 --> 00:35:44,480
and we really respect that
903
00:35:44,480 --> 00:35:47,200
and we really thank you
for what you're doing.
904
00:35:47,200 --> 00:35:49,240
We continued to talk and laugh,
905
00:35:49,240 --> 00:35:52,000
sipping coffee and exchanging stories.
906
00:35:52,000 --> 00:35:57,000
I started to get why I came
here and then the phone rang.
907
00:35:57,160 --> 00:35:58,200
(phone ringing)
908
00:35:58,200 --> 00:35:59,040
- Oh sorry.
909
00:36:00,040 --> 00:36:04,120
(speaking foreign language)
910
00:36:04,120 --> 00:36:04,960
- What's happening?
911
00:36:04,960 --> 00:36:06,720
- So it's a real thing now, okay.
912
00:36:06,720 --> 00:36:11,080
You can see now Panagos
taking his vest, okay.
913
00:36:12,440 --> 00:36:13,280
Panasosso also.
914
00:36:13,280 --> 00:36:14,960
- This is a real live scramble.
915
00:36:14,960 --> 00:36:17,360
(calm music)
916
00:36:23,120 --> 00:36:25,200
They told me before I came that there are
917
00:36:25,200 --> 00:36:28,760
between one and three real
live scrambles a day here.
918
00:36:28,760 --> 00:36:30,880
Until now, I didn't believe it,
919
00:36:30,880 --> 00:36:33,120
probably because I couldn't
fathom why people would want
920
00:36:33,120 --> 00:36:35,160
to frequently commit such incursions
921
00:36:35,160 --> 00:36:37,240
into another country's airspace.
922
00:36:37,240 --> 00:36:38,800
Only when I saw it happen,
923
00:36:38,800 --> 00:36:41,000
and you could see the
looks on their faces,
924
00:36:41,000 --> 00:36:42,120
did it all sink in.
925
00:36:44,840 --> 00:36:48,120
(jet engines whirring)
926
00:36:57,320 --> 00:36:58,120
(jet whooshing)
927
00:36:58,120 --> 00:37:00,440
Somewhere up in the skies over the Aegean,
928
00:37:00,440 --> 00:37:02,760
two sets of young lads
that don't know each other,
929
00:37:02,760 --> 00:37:05,440
one from Greece and the other Turkey,
930
00:37:05,440 --> 00:37:08,560
will use these amazing
pieces of modern technology
931
00:37:08,560 --> 00:37:11,480
to sustain the brinkmanship
of a millennia-old quarrel.
932
00:37:12,800 --> 00:37:15,400
Both these pilots and the
young men they face in the air
933
00:37:15,400 --> 00:37:18,960
each day are brave and self-sacrificing.
934
00:37:18,960 --> 00:37:20,840
Their leaders have
forced them into a fight
935
00:37:20,840 --> 00:37:22,920
that has no winners.
936
00:37:22,920 --> 00:37:26,680
It's a conflict that was woven
by decades or even centuries
937
00:37:26,680 --> 00:37:29,480
of complex political stand-offs.
938
00:37:29,480 --> 00:37:31,320
Today, their leaders are trying
939
00:37:31,320 --> 00:37:34,280
to unravel that international quagmire.
940
00:37:34,280 --> 00:37:36,680
I'm sure these boys and the
fellas they go up against
941
00:37:36,680 --> 00:37:39,800
hope it happens soon, so
their sons and daughters
942
00:37:39,800 --> 00:37:42,440
aren't left with this
centuries old legacy.
943
00:37:44,520 --> 00:37:49,520
This was a special day
for both Panagiotus and I.
944
00:37:50,280 --> 00:37:52,400
It was his last scramble
before he moves up
945
00:37:52,400 --> 00:37:54,440
to flying a desk at headquarters.
946
00:37:54,440 --> 00:37:57,720
And for me, it was my
first such experience.
947
00:37:57,720 --> 00:38:01,240
We shared coffee, life
stories, family photos,
948
00:38:02,120 --> 00:38:05,480
and the pinnacle of adrenalin
rushes, all in a single day.
949
00:38:06,320 --> 00:38:08,400
I made a great friend
in him and all the boys
950
00:38:08,400 --> 00:38:10,640
at the 130th Combat Group.
951
00:38:10,640 --> 00:38:12,920
These pilots are just like you and I,
952
00:38:12,920 --> 00:38:17,760
down to earth family people
with one fundamental difference.
953
00:38:17,760 --> 00:38:20,600
They risk their lives
every day to keep their
954
00:38:20,600 --> 00:38:24,440
countrymen safe and their nation at peace.
955
00:38:24,440 --> 00:38:27,600
(slow peaceful music)
956
00:38:31,440 --> 00:38:34,040
(guitar music)
957
00:38:46,840 --> 00:38:49,240
Weighing anchor, we moved
around the south of the island
958
00:38:49,240 --> 00:38:51,440
from Myrina to Moudros Bay.
959
00:38:51,440 --> 00:38:54,160
Over a century ago,
this large body of water
960
00:38:54,160 --> 00:38:57,480
saw the greatest gathering
of war ships to that time.
961
00:38:57,480 --> 00:38:59,680
This was a staging point
for the Gallipoli campaign,
962
00:38:59,680 --> 00:39:02,240
where the ANZAC name was born.
963
00:39:02,240 --> 00:39:06,040
Australians, New Zealanders,
Canadians, Indians,
964
00:39:06,040 --> 00:39:10,040
French, British, Germans
and Ottomans fought here.
965
00:39:10,040 --> 00:39:12,240
The death and destruction
that followed this,
966
00:39:12,240 --> 00:39:14,480
and both great wars, devastated the world
967
00:39:14,480 --> 00:39:17,400
to a level and scale that
we haven't seen since.
968
00:39:17,400 --> 00:39:20,360
And hopefully we will never see again.
969
00:39:20,360 --> 00:39:24,440
Around the world, there are
monuments and cemeteries
970
00:39:24,440 --> 00:39:26,920
dedicated to fallen soldiers.
971
00:39:26,920 --> 00:39:29,920
They're sombre places that
perform a very important role.
972
00:39:29,920 --> 00:39:33,040
For here to not only
remember those gallant heroes
973
00:39:33,040 --> 00:39:35,840
that gave their lives for
the freedoms we enjoy today,
974
00:39:35,840 --> 00:39:39,880
but also to remind us of
the lessons of the past.
975
00:39:39,880 --> 00:39:42,720
Those mistakes cost the
lives of 100 million people
976
00:39:42,720 --> 00:39:44,800
across two world wars.
977
00:39:44,800 --> 00:39:47,360
The ramifications are still felt today,
978
00:39:47,360 --> 00:39:49,680
with entire generations having been lost.
979
00:39:51,520 --> 00:39:55,360
Over 100000 men from both
sides gave their lives
980
00:39:55,360 --> 00:39:57,880
in the Gallipoli campaign alone.
981
00:39:57,880 --> 00:40:01,080
Here in this cemetery,
there are men from Britain,
982
00:40:01,080 --> 00:40:06,080
Australia, France, Canada,
New Zealand, India,
983
00:40:06,600 --> 00:40:11,600
a young boy, 19, from the Royal
Scots, 22, from New Zealand,
984
00:40:12,760 --> 00:40:15,760
19, from Australia.
985
00:40:15,760 --> 00:40:18,320
It goes on and on.
986
00:40:18,320 --> 00:40:21,560
This is one of the many
cemeteries dotted right throughout
987
00:40:21,560 --> 00:40:22,400
the Aegean.
988
00:40:23,320 --> 00:40:25,920
It's sad but it needs to be here,
989
00:40:25,920 --> 00:40:27,480
and it's well respected.
990
00:40:27,480 --> 00:40:29,960
The Lemnians have kept
it in excellent order.
991
00:40:31,160 --> 00:40:32,840
These are the memories
that we need to keep
992
00:40:32,840 --> 00:40:35,480
to avoid this sort of
thing happening again.
993
00:40:36,760 --> 00:40:38,760
Every time I visit a place like this,
994
00:40:38,760 --> 00:40:40,560
I can't help but get a little emotional.
995
00:40:40,560 --> 00:40:44,160
These young people would
have left their homelands
996
00:40:44,160 --> 00:40:46,920
with hope and a sense of adventure.
997
00:40:46,920 --> 00:40:49,840
They travelled to the unknown
and were confronted with a
998
00:40:49,840 --> 00:40:51,880
situation no amount of training
999
00:40:51,880 --> 00:40:53,560
could have prepared them for.
1000
00:40:53,560 --> 00:40:56,920
Then in most cases, they
served with pride and honour,
1001
00:40:56,920 --> 00:40:59,400
giving their lives in the hope
of protecting their families
1002
00:40:59,400 --> 00:41:01,080
and loved ones back home.
1003
00:41:01,080 --> 00:41:02,880
It's the ultimate sacrifice,
1004
00:41:02,880 --> 00:41:05,480
worth respecting and never forgetting.
1005
00:41:09,600 --> 00:41:11,240
It's true what they say about Lemnos,
1006
00:41:11,240 --> 00:41:13,560
that when you visit here, you cry twice,
1007
00:41:13,560 --> 00:41:17,000
once when you arrive
and once when you leave.
1008
00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:19,240
For me, it might have been
for different reasons,
1009
00:41:19,240 --> 00:41:20,080
but it's true.
1010
00:41:33,640 --> 00:41:36,560
Leaving the peace and calm
waters of Moudros Bay,
1011
00:41:36,560 --> 00:41:39,120
we trek south for around 50 kilometres
1012
00:41:39,120 --> 00:41:40,720
to the island of Agios Efstratios.
1013
00:41:41,920 --> 00:41:44,440
It's a tiny land mass
in the middle of nowhere
1014
00:41:44,440 --> 00:41:46,920
once known as the isle of the
(speaking in foreign language)
1015
00:41:46,920 --> 00:41:48,600
because through the middle
of the 20th century,
1016
00:41:48,600 --> 00:41:50,080
it was used as a prison camp.
1017
00:41:54,000 --> 00:41:54,960
That's awesome.
1018
00:41:54,960 --> 00:41:58,040
He's whacking the octopus to tenderise it.
1019
00:41:58,040 --> 00:41:59,720
This is our day off.
1020
00:41:59,720 --> 00:42:01,160
We shouldn't be filming.
1021
00:42:01,160 --> 00:42:04,320
My researchers told me not to come here,
1022
00:42:04,320 --> 00:42:07,360
but I came, just to step
foot on that island,
1023
00:42:07,360 --> 00:42:09,120
one of those 227.
1024
00:42:10,160 --> 00:42:12,680
I'm gonna have dinner at
this taverna up here tonight.
1025
00:42:12,680 --> 00:42:14,320
I'll tell you what it's like later.
1026
00:42:17,840 --> 00:42:20,000
Tourists don't know
anything about this place.
1027
00:42:20,000 --> 00:42:22,840
It's not in any travel
guides or brochures.
1028
00:42:22,840 --> 00:42:25,440
Regardless, the meal at
the tavern was not only
1029
00:42:25,440 --> 00:42:28,280
fresh and homely, but the
atmosphere inspired you
1030
00:42:28,280 --> 00:42:30,640
to join tables with
your unknown neighbours.
1031
00:42:31,680 --> 00:42:34,160
This unconditional friendly
nature of the place
1032
00:42:34,160 --> 00:42:37,680
is at the heart of what I love
about Greek island living.
1033
00:42:37,680 --> 00:42:39,000
They're not pretentious
1034
00:42:39,000 --> 00:42:41,320
and they have no expectations of you.
1035
00:42:41,320 --> 00:42:43,560
Most folk just want to know
a little bit about your story
1036
00:42:43,560 --> 00:42:47,280
and what brings you to their
quiet corner of the world.
1037
00:42:47,280 --> 00:42:49,960
I don't think this island
could be any more Greek.
1038
00:42:49,960 --> 00:42:51,800
Nothing's written in English.
1039
00:42:51,800 --> 00:42:54,040
There's no tourists.
1040
00:42:54,040 --> 00:42:55,920
It's the only Greek
island without tourists.
1041
00:42:55,920 --> 00:42:57,280
Agios Efstratios.
1042
00:43:00,200 --> 00:43:02,000
They had an earthquake here in 1968.
1043
00:43:02,960 --> 00:43:04,600
Ruined the whole island.
1044
00:43:04,600 --> 00:43:05,880
But they've slowly built it up
1045
00:43:05,880 --> 00:43:08,720
to a population of about 150 people.
1046
00:43:08,720 --> 00:43:10,560
Everybody's a local here.
1047
00:43:10,560 --> 00:43:11,920
Very quiet.
1048
00:43:11,920 --> 00:43:13,320
The harbor's beautiful.
1049
00:43:13,320 --> 00:43:15,440
Only harbour you can actually swim in.
1050
00:43:15,440 --> 00:43:17,760
If you want to come to
a place that has nothing
1051
00:43:17,760 --> 00:43:22,480
except for quiet and everybody's
going to leave you alone,
1052
00:43:22,480 --> 00:43:25,200
this is the place to come, I think.
1053
00:43:26,480 --> 00:43:29,040
One thing you'll discover
on these tiny islands
1054
00:43:29,040 --> 00:43:31,720
is that the locals have a
real passion for their home.
1055
00:43:32,600 --> 00:43:34,040
Once they get to know you a little,
1056
00:43:34,040 --> 00:43:35,520
they'll tell you where
the best restaurants are,
1057
00:43:35,520 --> 00:43:38,440
how the find the hidden
beaches or who to chat to
1058
00:43:38,440 --> 00:43:40,440
if you want to learn some
of the island's history.
1059
00:43:40,440 --> 00:43:42,840
That small town pride and sharing attitude
1060
00:43:42,840 --> 00:43:43,880
is really refreshing.
1061
00:43:45,920 --> 00:43:48,160
In the next episode of My Greek Odyssey,
1062
00:43:48,160 --> 00:43:51,440
I'm headed southeast, across
to the island of Lesbos.
1063
00:43:51,440 --> 00:43:53,880
Sitting just off the coast of Turkey,
1064
00:43:53,880 --> 00:43:56,400
there are obvious influences
from its neighbour,
1065
00:43:56,400 --> 00:43:57,680
but like any Greek island,
1066
00:43:57,680 --> 00:44:00,320
it has a truly unique personality.
1067
00:44:00,320 --> 00:44:02,720
It's the third biggest
island in the nation,
1068
00:44:02,720 --> 00:44:06,800
with a rich and varied
landscape, and as you'll see,
1069
00:44:06,800 --> 00:44:10,040
it's a beautiful place with
loads of history and wildlife,
1070
00:44:10,040 --> 00:44:12,440
both above and below the water.
1071
00:44:12,440 --> 00:44:14,720
Apart from visiting the
landmarks and learning about
1072
00:44:14,720 --> 00:44:17,960
its cultural identity, I'm
also gonna find out how Lesbos
1073
00:44:17,960 --> 00:44:20,240
became the world's capital for Ouzo,
1074
00:44:20,240 --> 00:44:22,920
but before heading there, I
had a date with a deck chair.
1075
00:44:22,920 --> 00:44:26,440
I wasn't gonna miss a
spectacular sunset like this.
1076
00:44:26,440 --> 00:44:29,520
(upbeat Greek music)
81131
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