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(lively music)
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- From the bustling streets of Athens
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and the historic port of Hydra,
to the beaches of Zakynthos,
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00:00:27,470 --> 00:00:30,130
and the villages Kythira, our
journey over the coming weeks
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spans many of the Ionian islands,
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some well-known, others
that few ever get to visit.
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But before heading off,
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you probably want to know
a little bit about me.
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My story starts as a boy
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growing up in the inner suburbs of Sydney.
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Like a lot of Greeks early last century,
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my parents moved overseas to
find a better life abroad.
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They arrived with very little
and worked extremely hard
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to give my sisters and
I a loving upbringing.
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They also made me believe that
if I too worked hard enough,
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I could achieve anything.
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54 years later, I've built
a successful business.
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And that has enabled me to do
things I once only dreamed of.
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One of those dreams was to step foot
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on all 227 inhabited Greek Islands,
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and I'm gonna take a big chunk out of that
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in this first series.
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We've been travelling
for several weeks now,
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and as the journey nears its
end, I can't help but look back
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at all the amazing things
we've seen and done.
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Most recently, our travels
have taken us from Kefalonia
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to Ithaca, where amongst other
things, I explored its green,
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mountainous interior, and
met a few of the locals.
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From there, I then made my way to Lefkada,
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where I learnt about
the famed lentil farms,
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wandered through ancient ruins,
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and also took in the
spectacular white cliffs
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the island is named after.
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This episode sees me
continuing where we left off,
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as I learn how the locals
in Lefkada make their wine,
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check out a remnant of the Cold War,
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and have a dream come true
when I visit Skorpios Island,
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which was once owned by Aristotle Onassis.
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From there, we up anchor and head to Paxos
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to show you a gem of the
Ionian that most never visit.
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It also happens to be a
favourite of my wife Helen.
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Right now, I'm just inland
from the port town of Nydri,
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on the east coast of Lefkada.
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I've come here to meet
Nikko at his vineyard,
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and get an education on how the folks here
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make their delicious wine.
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In Lefkada, if you don't grow lentils,
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you grow grapes or both.
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And Nikko, who is a local wine maker,
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has been telling me about
this wonderful grape.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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- Beptzami.
- Beptzami.
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I keep getting it wrong.
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And it's grown right through
the whole region here.
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It is a Venetian grape that
was brought here in the 1600s.
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And it makes this
beautiful, dry, red wine.
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I just had some for lunch actually.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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We're gonna go and find some.
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(gentle music)
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No matter how big or small an island is,
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you'll generally find someone making wine.
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What's more, the type of drop they produce
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will be unique in its own way,
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be it thanks to the soil or the climate,
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or because of the processes they use.
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They've actually picked
these grapes this morning,
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but Nikko tells me that they
leave a few on the vines
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because later in the week,
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they come and cut the vines
so they can get new growth.
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And they leave a few grapes on there
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for the guys that are clipping the vines
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to have a bit of a snack.
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The wine produced here is
quite different to that
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which you'll come across in
the Peloponnese or Cyprus,
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where this variety is quite common.
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It's known for having a deep
colour and being versatile,
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in that you drink it as a rose, age it,
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or even just enjoy the grape
juice as a refreshing drink.
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Spending some time amongst the vines
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gave me an appreciation
for Nikko's way of life.
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It's physical work, but being
in such a beautiful setting
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makes it quite enjoyable.
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So we collected grapes, and
because it's the 21st century,
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we don't tread on them anymore.
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We have this massive machine
here, well, it's not massive,
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but we've got this machine here,
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and we're gonna put grapes through there,
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and they're gonna come out this end,
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and wine is gonna come out there.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Okay, Nikko.
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It's the filter.
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We have a filter.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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So, filter goes in there,
which is actually grape vine.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(machine whirring)
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Ooh, come around here and have a look.
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Have a look over there.
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Ah, the aroma, you can
smell that grape juice.
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This is the less romantic
part of the process.
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The serenity turns to deafening noise
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as the simple but effective crusher
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turns the crates of plump
grapes into litres of juice.
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Half a century ago,
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they'd have spent the best part of the day
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stomping in halved barrels
to extract the nectar.
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By automating things not
only is it much quicker,
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but they can produce far greater volumes.
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I wonder if local
consumption has gone up too.
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Once he's crushed all the grapes,
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and we haven't crushed them all,
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'cause we just don't have the time,
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he leaves it in this big barrel
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for about three or four days.
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The longer he leaves
it, the heavier the red.
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The quicker he pulls it
out, the lighter the rose.
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He then takes the grape
juice that you can see
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coming out at the moment,
puts it in the barrel,
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let's it ferment for 15
to 20 days, and voila.
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You have Beptzami.
- Beptzami.
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- Top.
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(rooster crowing)
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I think they rooster
is very happy as well.
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(gentle music)
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I've picked them, I've helped crush them,
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and now I'm gonna help drink them.
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It is truly a very nice wine
from the Beptzami grape.
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You should have a try.
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If you come across this wine
in your travels, give it a go,
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and thank me for letting
you know about it.
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(lively music)
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(gentle music)
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On the drive out of Nydri,
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we noticed something
ominous on the mountaintop.
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So naturally, we did
a little investigating
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by talking to locals.
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What we discovered was
something rather fascinating.
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As we got higher, the temperature dropped,
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and an eerie sense of
abandonment came over us.
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Entering through the now empty guard post,
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the scene was like something
out of a James Bond movie,
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and I couldn't wait to explore it.
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I'm here on the second
highest spot of the island.
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The highest spot is reserved
for a church just up there.
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The locals tell me that
this is a radar station
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from the '60s.
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I think it's a high level listening post,
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a relic of the Cold War.
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You know, I'm so used to seeing monuments
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from ancient history
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and all the wars that have happened since.
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This is a monument from the 20th century
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of a war that never happened.
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Since visiting this site,
I've done a lot more research,
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and discovered that these were
in fact listening stations
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that pointed towards Eastern
European communist countries
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and North Africa.
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They're a relic of the Cold War,
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when the U.S. and Western
European NATO alliance
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were in conflict with the
Soviet-led communist nations.
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It was an intense and
at times scary period
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where the superpowers
were in an arms race,
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building up their nuclear arsenal.
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The Earth was on the brink of war,
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potentially greater than the world wars
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that had previously consumed the planet.
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Apart from increasing their weaponry,
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they also ramped up their
intelligence gathering,
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using outposts like this to
listen in on radio traffic
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from thousands of kilometres away.
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It really was a time of great tension
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that gripped the world.
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You know, we've come out the room
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where all the action happened,
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but it all got fed into this room.
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You see all these plinths
here and all those ducts.
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There's ducts everywhere
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because they needed to
cool this room down.
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I'd say there was massive computers
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sitting on those plinths, you know,
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with those turning things, you
know, with tape around them.
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What amazes me is that the
combined capability of that room,
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computing, would have been
100 times less than this.
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Unbelievable stuff.
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It freaks me out.
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This is like 50, 60 years later,
and they've taken all that,
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and it's in less than 1/10
microchip that's in this.
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(gentle music)
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These 15,000-liter diesel tanks
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would have serviced the
giant backup generators
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in case of power failure.
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In its day, this top secret
complex was state of the art
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and could run autonomously
from the outside world.
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It would have taken a
huge amount of people
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and infrastructure to
keep this facility running
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around the clock, 365 days a year.
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Clearly, no expense was spared,
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and little care was given
when it all came to an end.
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All that money, all that energy,
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all that technology, all that work.
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And what is it now?
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A playground for teenagers.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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At least it's getting some use,
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and arguably a much more positive one.
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So, the high security area was up here,
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and down there was the low security area
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where there was administration buildings
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and probably living quarters.
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What's great is that the
Greeks are still using the area
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for their beehives, so that's
not being wasted at least.
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00:10:04,100 --> 00:10:06,000
With the advent of satellite technology,
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00:10:06,000 --> 00:10:08,430
listening stations like
this became obsolete.
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It occurred almost overnight.
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00:10:10,430 --> 00:10:11,510
The powers that be
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now had thousands of far
more powerful devices
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orbiting the planet and
watching out every move.
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00:10:17,080 --> 00:10:19,710
They could hear and see almost
everything that was going on
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without anyone being remotely aware
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they were under surveillance.
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Today, there are rusting relics like this
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all over the world.
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They stir up evocative memories
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for the generations that lived
through those tense times.
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Let's hope we never go
down that path again.
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12 months of planning to
bring this odyssey to you.
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But nothing tested our team
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as much as what we're about to see today.
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Just a mile away is an island
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that hasn't been filmed in decades.
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The richest man in the world bought it,
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he married the most photographed woman,
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and it's currently owned
by a Russian oligarch.
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Really looking forward to going to it.
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Let's go, captain.
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00:11:04,239 --> 00:11:06,822
(gentle music)
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In his time,
240
00:11:14,213 --> 00:11:16,840
Aristotle Onassis was the
richest man on the planet.
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00:11:16,840 --> 00:11:19,280
He started from nothing
and built up an empire,
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00:11:19,280 --> 00:11:22,350
amassing the world's largest
privately owned shipping fleet.
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00:11:22,350 --> 00:11:24,190
But the jewel in the crown of his empire
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was the island of Skorpios.
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00:11:26,260 --> 00:11:27,940
He married Jackie Kennedy there,
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00:11:27,940 --> 00:11:30,720
entertained royalty and
presidents on its shores,
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00:11:30,720 --> 00:11:33,940
and now, he and his family
are buried on the island.
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It's a private sanctuary
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that very few people have
ever stepped foot on.
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00:11:37,370 --> 00:11:40,882
In fact, it hasn't been filmed
since his wedding in 1968.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Thank you very much.
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It's good to be here.
254
00:11:47,780 --> 00:11:49,763
I'm very excited, very excited.
255
00:11:52,100 --> 00:11:53,570
The island has since been purchased
256
00:11:53,570 --> 00:11:56,870
by a Russian businessman,
Mr. Dmitry Rybolovlev.
257
00:11:56,870 --> 00:11:59,680
He quickly set about restoring
the buildings and gardens,
258
00:11:59,680 --> 00:12:03,420
hiring engineer Andreas to
oversee the extensive work.
259
00:12:03,420 --> 00:12:05,350
Rybolovlev was so
appreciative of his efforts
260
00:12:05,350 --> 00:12:08,400
that he kept Andreas on
to manage the 37 staff
261
00:12:08,400 --> 00:12:11,073
that maintain this pristine
and historic island.
262
00:12:13,450 --> 00:12:14,283
It's fantastic.
263
00:12:17,680 --> 00:12:20,090
- On the right side is Pink House.
264
00:12:20,090 --> 00:12:20,923
- Which house?
- Pink House, yes.
265
00:12:20,923 --> 00:12:21,830
- [Peter] Pink House.
266
00:12:22,900 --> 00:12:26,700
- [Andreas] Master House
and guest forest hill house.
267
00:12:26,700 --> 00:12:29,630
I will tell you more detail later.
268
00:12:29,630 --> 00:12:31,340
- There would be few people alive
269
00:12:31,340 --> 00:12:34,240
who know more about Skorpios than Andreas.
270
00:12:34,240 --> 00:12:36,130
We were privileged to
have him show us around.
271
00:12:36,130 --> 00:12:39,740
Andreas, I see such a
big marine theme here.
272
00:12:39,740 --> 00:12:43,020
This could be the port of a major town.
273
00:12:43,020 --> 00:12:45,150
We've got Christina key over there,
274
00:12:45,150 --> 00:12:48,720
you've got this marina here,
and this massive boat ramp.
275
00:12:48,720 --> 00:12:50,240
It's huge.
276
00:12:50,240 --> 00:12:52,480
- Yeah, actually, it's
not a massive boat ramp.
277
00:12:52,480 --> 00:12:55,610
It's a ramp that Onassis constructed
278
00:12:55,610 --> 00:12:57,393
for the use of his hydroplane.
279
00:12:59,230 --> 00:13:02,260
Onassis, they loved very much aeroplanes ,
280
00:13:02,260 --> 00:13:05,310
and so they did the ramp and
they used their hydroplane
281
00:13:05,310 --> 00:13:08,163
for their movements
from and to the island.
282
00:13:08,163 --> 00:13:09,030
- [Peter] Wow, that's fantastic.
283
00:13:09,030 --> 00:13:11,613
And it's also sad that
it was a plane accident
284
00:13:11,613 --> 00:13:13,450
that actually ending up killing his son.
285
00:13:13,450 --> 00:13:14,560
- [Andreas] Yes, indeed.
286
00:13:14,560 --> 00:13:15,886
- Wow.
- It's very sad.
287
00:13:15,886 --> 00:13:17,210
- Let's go and have a look
at the other buildings.
288
00:13:17,210 --> 00:13:18,960
I'm a bit sad now, looking at that.
289
00:13:22,240 --> 00:13:23,240
There was a lot to see,
290
00:13:23,240 --> 00:13:25,630
and because coming here was
a long held dream of mine,
291
00:13:25,630 --> 00:13:26,690
I had to see it all.
292
00:13:26,690 --> 00:13:28,280
I'm happy to live here.
293
00:13:28,280 --> 00:13:30,133
I'm happy to live here. (laughing)
294
00:13:30,133 --> 00:13:33,190
Next to the boat ramp
is the sailor's house.
295
00:13:33,190 --> 00:13:35,140
It was originally an olive mill,
296
00:13:35,140 --> 00:13:37,500
but Onassis converted it into a cottage.
297
00:13:37,500 --> 00:13:39,280
However, like all the
buildings on the island,
298
00:13:39,280 --> 00:13:42,290
it fell into disrepair
after his death in 1975.
299
00:13:42,290 --> 00:13:47,290
- The new owner just renovated
the building internally.
300
00:13:47,320 --> 00:13:49,617
We kept the external character as it was.
301
00:13:52,413 --> 00:13:55,270
We are keeping it now as a sailor house,
302
00:13:55,270 --> 00:13:56,660
and it's been used only in summer
303
00:13:56,660 --> 00:14:00,130
where the sailors come
here, and they live here.
304
00:14:00,130 --> 00:14:02,170
In winter, is not being used.
305
00:14:02,170 --> 00:14:04,550
- You know, Andreas, I see
a continuing theme here
306
00:14:04,550 --> 00:14:08,290
that the current owner, much like Onassis,
307
00:14:08,290 --> 00:14:11,250
tried to keep all of the
architecture on the island
308
00:14:11,250 --> 00:14:13,060
the same way, very well restored.
309
00:14:13,060 --> 00:14:14,960
How old do you think this building is?
310
00:14:15,860 --> 00:14:18,090
- I'm not quite sure how many
years this building is here,
311
00:14:18,090 --> 00:14:21,152
but for sure it was here since '63
312
00:14:21,152 --> 00:14:22,640
that Onassis bought the island.
313
00:14:22,640 --> 00:14:25,563
So, it's many years has been sitting here.
314
00:14:26,730 --> 00:14:28,270
- I reckon it looks at
least 100 years old.
315
00:14:28,270 --> 00:14:30,021
Anyway, let's go and have a
look at the other buildings, eh?
316
00:14:30,021 --> 00:14:32,604
(gentle music)
317
00:14:34,396 --> 00:14:35,920
We only had a short
time to see the island,
318
00:14:35,920 --> 00:14:37,760
and with seven kilometres of roads
319
00:14:37,760 --> 00:14:41,410
and a total of 878,000
square metres of land,
320
00:14:41,410 --> 00:14:42,860
we really had to keep moving.
321
00:14:45,300 --> 00:14:47,550
- What you can see now
is the old vineyard,
322
00:14:47,550 --> 00:14:48,810
all of this area.
- Yep.
323
00:14:48,810 --> 00:14:50,197
- [Andreas] Which Onassis had,
324
00:14:50,197 --> 00:14:52,430
and they produced a lot of
wine here on the island.
325
00:14:52,430 --> 00:14:53,270
- [Peter] Is that right?
326
00:14:53,270 --> 00:14:55,780
- But, okay, they been left and destroyed,
327
00:14:55,780 --> 00:14:57,530
so there is nothing now here.
328
00:14:57,530 --> 00:15:00,830
At the back is the
church, it's the church.
329
00:15:00,830 --> 00:15:01,700
- Oh, should we go and have a look?
330
00:15:01,700 --> 00:15:02,823
- Yeah.
- Fantastic.
331
00:15:07,110 --> 00:15:08,920
It's a spectacular setting
332
00:15:08,920 --> 00:15:10,950
and a fitting place for
Onassis and his loved ones
333
00:15:10,950 --> 00:15:12,510
to have been laid to rest.
334
00:15:12,510 --> 00:15:14,670
Knowing I would soon be
able to pay my respects
335
00:15:14,670 --> 00:15:16,220
was something I was humbled by.
336
00:15:23,227 --> 00:15:25,810
(lively music)
337
00:15:33,320 --> 00:15:35,903
(gentle music)
338
00:15:38,140 --> 00:15:39,757
Like Aristotle before him,
339
00:15:39,757 --> 00:15:41,260
Rybolovlev has been very sympathetic
340
00:15:41,260 --> 00:15:43,140
to what his predecessor had created,
341
00:15:43,140 --> 00:15:46,063
continuing to build a completely
self-sustainable island.
342
00:15:50,050 --> 00:15:51,460
What are these over here?
343
00:15:51,460 --> 00:15:55,130
- This area, it has been used
from Onassis at that time
344
00:15:55,130 --> 00:16:00,130
to produce fruits like
apples, pears, vegetables,
345
00:16:00,840 --> 00:16:05,140
watermelons, and he was
using this to feed the boat
346
00:16:05,140 --> 00:16:06,983
and the staff on the island.
347
00:16:06,983 --> 00:16:10,421
- This is so nostalgic, you
know, this is so nostalgic.
348
00:16:10,421 --> 00:16:14,364
I just.
349
00:16:14,364 --> 00:16:15,470
It's beautiful.
350
00:16:15,470 --> 00:16:16,543
- It's a very nice area here,
351
00:16:17,590 --> 00:16:20,000
where we produce the vegetables.
352
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:24,243
We have apple trees, pear trees, bananas,
353
00:16:27,030 --> 00:16:29,900
and many other fruits, and--
354
00:16:29,900 --> 00:16:32,560
- And the church.
- The back is the chapel, yes.
355
00:16:32,560 --> 00:16:33,410
- And the chapel.
356
00:16:34,340 --> 00:16:39,120
And, of course, out of
privacy for the family,
357
00:16:39,120 --> 00:16:42,170
we can't film the church
and the burial ground
358
00:16:42,170 --> 00:16:45,990
of Onassis, his sister,
359
00:16:45,990 --> 00:16:48,040
- His son.
- his son, and his daughter.
360
00:16:48,040 --> 00:16:49,528
They're all buried there.
361
00:16:49,528 --> 00:16:51,336
We should go and pay our respects.
362
00:16:51,336 --> 00:16:52,419
- Yep.
- Okay.
363
00:17:08,140 --> 00:17:10,590
We were incredibly fortunate
to be one of the very few
364
00:17:10,590 --> 00:17:12,230
to have entered the chapel.
365
00:17:12,230 --> 00:17:15,870
It's a simple building,
free of any opulence.
366
00:17:15,870 --> 00:17:18,790
Within it are winged
vestibules on either side.
367
00:17:18,790 --> 00:17:21,840
To the left, are the white
marble tombs of Aristotle
368
00:17:21,840 --> 00:17:23,600
and his sister Artemis.
369
00:17:23,600 --> 00:17:27,310
On the right, are his son
Alexander and daughter Christina.
370
00:17:27,310 --> 00:17:29,340
I couldn't help but feel
as though I was intruding
371
00:17:29,340 --> 00:17:31,040
on a very private sanctuary.
372
00:17:31,040 --> 00:17:32,640
But he was one of my idols
373
00:17:32,640 --> 00:17:35,310
and inspired me in my youth
when times were tough.
374
00:17:35,310 --> 00:17:37,440
I looked up to this man my entire life,
375
00:17:37,440 --> 00:17:38,970
and to be standing here was an honour,
376
00:17:38,970 --> 00:17:40,720
and a memory I'll take to my grave.
377
00:17:42,040 --> 00:17:47,030
- They had here their own
horses, their own cows, goats,
378
00:17:47,030 --> 00:17:50,080
sheeps, and they were producing
a lot of milk from cows,
379
00:17:50,080 --> 00:17:51,181
meat,
- Is that right?
380
00:17:51,181 --> 00:17:52,110
- for the needs of the island.
381
00:17:52,110 --> 00:17:54,060
We renovated recently these buildings.
382
00:17:54,060 --> 00:17:56,190
That one there is to
store, here is the stables,
383
00:17:56,190 --> 00:17:57,430
as it was before,
384
00:17:57,430 --> 00:18:00,360
the other one is the
building for personnel,
385
00:18:00,360 --> 00:18:02,240
for training groups, et cetera.
386
00:18:02,240 --> 00:18:04,090
And we are proceeding slowly, slowly
387
00:18:04,090 --> 00:18:06,310
with the renovations of the whole farm.
388
00:18:06,310 --> 00:18:07,660
- [Peter] Wow.
389
00:18:07,660 --> 00:18:10,520
- Where we will start producing ourselves.
390
00:18:10,520 --> 00:18:11,550
- [Peter] Producing what?
391
00:18:11,550 --> 00:18:15,103
- We will have our own animals,
goats, sheeps, chicken.
392
00:18:16,303 --> 00:18:18,060
- [Peter] Wow, so you're gonna
be fully self-sustainable.
393
00:18:18,060 --> 00:18:19,610
- Yeah, you may say so.
394
00:18:19,610 --> 00:18:21,420
- [Peter] What is this thing here?
395
00:18:21,420 --> 00:18:22,910
- This is a treadmill for horses.
396
00:18:22,910 --> 00:18:24,300
- A treadmill for horses?
- Yeah.
397
00:18:24,300 --> 00:18:25,470
- [Peter] This is for Ekaterina, isn't it?
398
00:18:25,470 --> 00:18:26,750
The daughter.
- It is, yes.
399
00:18:26,750 --> 00:18:27,930
- [Peter] Yeah, she's a good showjumper
400
00:18:27,930 --> 00:18:29,210
from what I understand.
401
00:18:29,210 --> 00:18:32,220
- I think so, yes.
- Wow, this is fantastic.
402
00:18:32,220 --> 00:18:33,053
- Yeah.
403
00:18:33,053 --> 00:18:34,610
- Ekaterina is a showjumping champion.
404
00:18:34,610 --> 00:18:37,110
For her 25th birthday,
she held an event here
405
00:18:37,110 --> 00:18:39,820
and instructed her guests
not to bring any presents.
406
00:18:39,820 --> 00:18:42,080
Instead, she asked them to make a donation
407
00:18:42,080 --> 00:18:44,280
to a number of children's
charities in Lefkada.
408
00:18:44,280 --> 00:18:45,860
She has even established a foundation
409
00:18:45,860 --> 00:18:47,100
for the welfare of children,
410
00:18:47,100 --> 00:18:48,950
particularly those with disabilities.
411
00:18:50,420 --> 00:18:51,930
Continuing further around the island,
412
00:18:51,930 --> 00:18:56,030
we next came to a famous location,
or should I say infamous.
413
00:18:56,030 --> 00:18:57,570
This beach is where Jackie Onassis
414
00:18:57,570 --> 00:19:00,565
was photographed nude sunbaking.
415
00:19:00,565 --> 00:19:02,630
Is that right, she was caught naked here?
416
00:19:02,630 --> 00:19:06,530
This is the spot, okay, fantastic.
417
00:19:06,530 --> 00:19:07,780
- The building over there,
418
00:19:07,780 --> 00:19:09,950
it's called Ispwich House.
- Right.
419
00:19:09,950 --> 00:19:12,400
- And it has been completed by Christina
420
00:19:12,400 --> 00:19:15,170
after Onassis death during '80s.
421
00:19:15,170 --> 00:19:18,100
Actually, here, there was no real beach,
422
00:19:18,100 --> 00:19:21,500
and Onassis bring from
Salamina all the sand
423
00:19:21,500 --> 00:19:22,950
to create this beach here.
424
00:19:22,950 --> 00:19:24,240
- Is that right?
- Yeah.
425
00:19:24,240 --> 00:19:26,750
- [Peter] Everything is so
meticulously maintained here,
426
00:19:26,750 --> 00:19:27,583
it's fantastic.
427
00:19:27,583 --> 00:19:30,013
I can't believe the number
of buildings on this island
428
00:19:30,013 --> 00:19:31,840
and the amount of maintenance you require.
429
00:19:31,840 --> 00:19:35,037
How many people do you need to work here?
430
00:19:35,037 --> 00:19:38,100
- Right now we have 37
employees on the island.
431
00:19:38,100 --> 00:19:39,270
- 37.
432
00:19:39,270 --> 00:19:40,820
- All this, the maintenance of the island
433
00:19:40,820 --> 00:19:43,160
and to keep it in good condition.
434
00:19:43,160 --> 00:19:43,993
- Wow.
435
00:19:43,993 --> 00:19:46,600
I can understand where the
current owner is coming from.
436
00:19:46,600 --> 00:19:48,430
This isn't just a beach house hideaway.
437
00:19:48,430 --> 00:19:50,440
It has been a major project for him
438
00:19:50,440 --> 00:19:53,040
that required huge energy and resources.
439
00:19:53,040 --> 00:19:55,350
It's like restoring a rare vintage car
440
00:19:55,350 --> 00:19:56,980
that you hardly ever drive,
441
00:19:56,980 --> 00:20:00,850
but respecting the importance
of its rarity and pedigree.
442
00:20:00,850 --> 00:20:03,920
- Master House used to
be Christina's house,
443
00:20:03,920 --> 00:20:06,400
and since she left it
444
00:20:06,400 --> 00:20:11,400
and the new owner of
Skorpios Island came here,
445
00:20:12,020 --> 00:20:14,690
we keep refurbishing this building,
446
00:20:14,690 --> 00:20:18,670
externally and internally,
without changing anything
447
00:20:18,670 --> 00:20:22,373
of the character of the house
either internal or external.
448
00:20:23,301 --> 00:20:24,134
- This is--
449
00:20:24,134 --> 00:20:28,520
- It is exactly as it was before,
even the floor, the doors,
450
00:20:28,520 --> 00:20:32,200
sanitary ware, are exactly
the same as they were before.
451
00:20:32,200 --> 00:20:33,970
- This is a time warp back to the '60s,
452
00:20:33,970 --> 00:20:34,803
isn't it?
- Yeah.
453
00:20:34,803 --> 00:20:36,020
- It's unbelievable, isn't it?
454
00:20:36,020 --> 00:20:37,360
And such a beautiful view too.
455
00:20:37,360 --> 00:20:39,360
- Yeah, that is a
beautiful view from here.
456
00:20:39,360 --> 00:20:40,193
- Wow.
457
00:20:41,320 --> 00:20:43,959
- You can even see Ispwich House from--
458
00:20:43,959 --> 00:20:44,850
- The beach house from here?
- Yeah.
459
00:20:44,850 --> 00:20:46,818
- Oh, you can too.
460
00:20:46,818 --> 00:20:49,401
(gentle music)
461
00:20:55,435 --> 00:20:58,090
- [Andreas] We're heading
towards Pink House now.
462
00:20:58,090 --> 00:20:59,820
- [Peter] What is the
significance of the Pink House?
463
00:20:59,820 --> 00:21:00,653
Why pink?
464
00:21:00,653 --> 00:21:02,700
- Pink House, I will explain to you.
465
00:21:02,700 --> 00:21:06,050
Pink House is one of the buildings, again,
466
00:21:06,050 --> 00:21:08,340
that it was here when
Onassis bought the island.
467
00:21:08,340 --> 00:21:11,530
This specific building,
it must be 180 years old.
468
00:21:11,530 --> 00:21:12,363
- [Peter] Wow.
469
00:21:12,363 --> 00:21:14,580
- Initially, it has been
used to keep the animals
470
00:21:14,580 --> 00:21:15,460
on the ground floor,
471
00:21:15,460 --> 00:21:17,640
and the master was
living on the top floor.
472
00:21:17,640 --> 00:21:21,310
Later on, Onassis came here,
refurbished the building
473
00:21:21,310 --> 00:21:22,273
and painted pink.
474
00:21:24,050 --> 00:21:26,710
When the new owner bought
the island and we came here,
475
00:21:26,710 --> 00:21:31,090
we renovate the existing
building internally,
476
00:21:32,660 --> 00:21:36,250
and externally, we kept
exactly the same character
477
00:21:36,250 --> 00:21:37,120
as it was before.
478
00:21:37,120 --> 00:21:40,830
Even the colour, we took the
colour from the old house
479
00:21:40,830 --> 00:21:43,000
in order to match the pink colour,
480
00:21:43,000 --> 00:21:45,333
and do it as exactly it was before.
481
00:21:45,333 --> 00:21:47,130
(lively music)
482
00:21:47,130 --> 00:21:47,963
- [Peter] The current owner
483
00:21:47,963 --> 00:21:49,730
could have stamped his
ideas and inclinations
484
00:21:49,730 --> 00:21:51,790
throughout the property, but like me,
485
00:21:51,790 --> 00:21:54,730
I think he has too much
respect for Aristotle's legacy,
486
00:21:54,730 --> 00:21:58,293
so he's been sympathetic to
even the most minute of details.
487
00:21:59,420 --> 00:22:00,840
- This is the Memories Room.
488
00:22:00,840 --> 00:22:03,230
It is one room of Pink House
489
00:22:03,230 --> 00:22:07,143
which we use for keeping
items from the island,
490
00:22:08,510 --> 00:22:10,970
showing the history of
the island and Onassis
491
00:22:12,050 --> 00:22:15,368
for visitors to come, for
example, here are some pictures
492
00:22:15,368 --> 00:22:18,110
of how Pink House was before.
493
00:22:18,110 --> 00:22:20,280
- And the church.
- The church.
494
00:22:20,280 --> 00:22:21,113
- [Peter] Yes.
495
00:22:21,113 --> 00:22:23,340
- [Andreas] Here you can
see pictures of Onassis
496
00:22:23,340 --> 00:22:25,759
in different places,
- And there's Jackie
497
00:22:25,759 --> 00:22:26,636
- and different people.
- and Maria Callas.
498
00:22:26,636 --> 00:22:27,590
- Yes.
- Yes.
499
00:22:27,590 --> 00:22:32,540
- Some old phones that were
being used on the island,
500
00:22:32,540 --> 00:22:34,900
even the Skorpios directory.
501
00:22:34,900 --> 00:22:37,000
- Phone directory.
- Yep.
502
00:22:37,000 --> 00:22:37,833
- Fantastic.
503
00:22:39,190 --> 00:22:41,850
Aristotle Onassis left behind him a legacy
504
00:22:41,850 --> 00:22:43,440
that has inspired countless others
505
00:22:43,440 --> 00:22:45,180
to toil away at their dreams.
506
00:22:45,180 --> 00:22:46,290
And as one of those devotees,
507
00:22:46,290 --> 00:22:48,430
I'm so appreciative of this meticulous
508
00:22:48,430 --> 00:22:50,490
and no-expense-spared restoration.
509
00:22:50,490 --> 00:22:52,010
Thank you, Dmitry Rybolovlev.
510
00:22:52,010 --> 00:22:53,480
Thank you for preserving the memory
511
00:22:53,480 --> 00:22:55,043
of this 20th century icon.
512
00:23:01,940 --> 00:23:03,480
Oh, what a day.
513
00:23:03,480 --> 00:23:05,960
- Yeah, that's the end
of the tour. (chuckling)
514
00:23:05,960 --> 00:23:07,320
- Thank you very, very much.
- You're welcome.
515
00:23:07,320 --> 00:23:11,060
- I really appreciate
you taking us through.
516
00:23:11,060 --> 00:23:13,120
I want you to say thank
you to your boss Dmitry,
517
00:23:13,120 --> 00:23:15,230
who's given us the opportunity,
518
00:23:15,230 --> 00:23:17,160
the very, very rare opportunity,
519
00:23:17,160 --> 00:23:19,320
to walk through such a beautiful island,
520
00:23:19,320 --> 00:23:20,890
and to take the time
521
00:23:20,890 --> 00:23:23,800
to explain to us the history
and the legacy of Onassis.
522
00:23:23,800 --> 00:23:26,740
And the good thing about it is
that he's keeping that legacy
523
00:23:26,740 --> 00:23:28,750
by maintaining such a beautiful island,
524
00:23:28,750 --> 00:23:31,310
and all of the buildings and
structures and architecture,
525
00:23:31,310 --> 00:23:32,850
that Onassis left behind.
526
00:23:32,850 --> 00:23:35,710
I'm really appreciative of today.
527
00:23:35,710 --> 00:23:36,660
- You are very welcome.
528
00:23:36,660 --> 00:23:39,620
It was our pleasure to
bring you on the island
529
00:23:39,620 --> 00:23:43,046
and show you the island, and
the history of the island.
530
00:23:43,046 --> 00:23:44,230
- You know, Andreas, I don't wanna go.
531
00:23:44,230 --> 00:23:45,063
I wanna stay.
532
00:23:45,063 --> 00:23:47,910
I'd like to stay, but I know
you're a busy man and I'm busy,
533
00:23:47,910 --> 00:23:48,770
so I've got to move.
534
00:23:48,770 --> 00:23:50,095
So, thank you very much once again.
535
00:23:50,095 --> 00:23:50,928
- You're very welcome.
536
00:23:50,928 --> 00:23:54,845
(speaking in foreign language)
537
00:24:02,718 --> 00:24:06,180
- You know, it was a long
day, but it was a great day.
538
00:24:06,180 --> 00:24:08,210
One of the highlights of my trip.
539
00:24:08,210 --> 00:24:10,660
One of the highlights of my life.
540
00:24:10,660 --> 00:24:12,820
I'm sad, but I'm also really excited,
541
00:24:12,820 --> 00:24:14,900
excited because I can share it with you,
542
00:24:14,900 --> 00:24:18,540
probably the first time the
general public has ever seen
543
00:24:18,540 --> 00:24:20,730
what we've gotten to see today.
544
00:24:20,730 --> 00:24:22,715
But I'm really sad because
it's probably the last time
545
00:24:22,715 --> 00:24:24,965
I'll ever get to come here.
546
00:24:46,499 --> 00:24:49,082
(lively music)
547
00:25:01,200 --> 00:25:03,930
Before leaving Lefkada, I just
had to stop by the main port
548
00:25:03,930 --> 00:25:05,900
to show you something
unique to the island.
549
00:25:05,900 --> 00:25:07,020
We're at the bridge
550
00:25:07,020 --> 00:25:10,040
that connects mainland Greece to Lefkada,
551
00:25:10,040 --> 00:25:13,110
'cause Lefkada is actually an
island connected to Greece.
552
00:25:13,110 --> 00:25:16,040
It's the only island connected
to Greece in this way.
553
00:25:16,040 --> 00:25:17,860
And the bridge is actually
called Santa Mavra,
554
00:25:17,860 --> 00:25:19,740
Which is what Lefkada was called
555
00:25:20,730 --> 00:25:22,323
back when the Venetians ruled.
556
00:25:24,690 --> 00:25:26,390
It's wonderful to watch.
557
00:25:26,390 --> 00:25:28,830
And there's this massive line
of boats waiting to get in,
558
00:25:28,830 --> 00:25:30,700
and when the boats come through,
559
00:25:30,700 --> 00:25:33,220
there will be a massive
line of cars to get through
560
00:25:33,220 --> 00:25:35,290
when they've already gone through.
561
00:25:35,290 --> 00:25:36,723
This happens once an hour.
562
00:25:38,690 --> 00:25:40,640
It's like a modern day drawbridge
563
00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:43,500
that keeps the island in
contact with civilization.
564
00:25:43,500 --> 00:25:45,700
Well, not quite to that extent,
565
00:25:45,700 --> 00:25:48,560
but it does mean that access
to the place is far easier,
566
00:25:48,560 --> 00:25:50,640
which in turn, brings the tourists.
567
00:25:50,640 --> 00:25:53,550
With them comes money, industry, and jobs.
568
00:25:53,550 --> 00:25:56,930
Without it, Lefkada wouldn't
be nearly as prosperous.
569
00:25:56,930 --> 00:26:00,680
Amazing, boats line up both
ways to get in and out.
570
00:26:00,680 --> 00:26:03,270
Some boats coming in, some
boats being kicked out,
571
00:26:03,270 --> 00:26:06,110
like that ugly thing
that we just saw go by.
572
00:26:06,110 --> 00:26:07,642
Man, I don't think they
will let him back in.
573
00:26:07,642 --> 00:26:10,220
(lively music)
574
00:26:10,220 --> 00:26:11,053
My week on the island was over,
575
00:26:11,053 --> 00:26:13,360
but I would be happy to
spend a few more days
576
00:26:13,360 --> 00:26:14,810
exploring the area.
577
00:26:14,810 --> 00:26:17,300
There was a lot that we did
that we left out of the episode,
578
00:26:17,300 --> 00:26:19,010
so don't go thinking that what you've seen
579
00:26:19,010 --> 00:26:20,360
is all that's on offer.
580
00:26:20,360 --> 00:26:21,193
While the highlight for me
581
00:26:21,193 --> 00:26:24,150
was the personal experience
of stepping foot on Skorpios,
582
00:26:24,150 --> 00:26:25,910
the coastline, lentil fields,
583
00:26:25,910 --> 00:26:27,550
and mystery of the listening station
584
00:26:27,550 --> 00:26:30,050
are all special memories
I'll take away with me.
585
00:26:30,050 --> 00:26:31,990
Thankfully, for most of you out there,
586
00:26:31,990 --> 00:26:33,800
you don't need a boat to come here.
587
00:26:33,800 --> 00:26:34,870
It's actually one of the easiest
588
00:26:34,870 --> 00:26:36,530
of the Greek Islands to access.
589
00:26:36,530 --> 00:26:39,290
You can step off the plane
in Athens, hop in a hire car,
590
00:26:39,290 --> 00:26:41,863
and a few short hours later,
you'll be in paradise.
591
00:26:53,540 --> 00:26:55,640
I left Lefkada on a massive high,
592
00:26:55,640 --> 00:26:57,480
thinking it couldn't get much better.
593
00:26:57,480 --> 00:26:58,700
However, my next port of call
594
00:26:58,700 --> 00:27:00,500
is one of my wife's
favourite destinations.
595
00:27:00,500 --> 00:27:04,100
It might be a tiny place,
but if Helen likes somewhere,
596
00:27:04,100 --> 00:27:06,500
there's no way we could just cruise on by.
597
00:27:06,500 --> 00:27:09,010
So waving goodbye to the
white cliffs of Lefkada,
598
00:27:09,010 --> 00:27:13,110
we set course for Paxos, and
with that, came a happy wife.
599
00:27:13,110 --> 00:27:15,150
Just an hour and half south of Corfu
600
00:27:15,150 --> 00:27:17,590
is this beautiful island of Paxos.
601
00:27:17,590 --> 00:27:20,590
It's got some magnificent
walks, the coastline is awesome,
602
00:27:20,590 --> 00:27:22,450
there are some wonderful caves.
603
00:27:22,450 --> 00:27:24,300
And for an island that's
only 10 kilometres long
604
00:27:24,300 --> 00:27:28,470
by three kilometres wide,
it's got 250,000 olive trees.
605
00:27:28,470 --> 00:27:31,770
The olive oil is probably my
favourite in all of the Ionian.
606
00:27:31,770 --> 00:27:32,603
Let's go and try it.
607
00:27:32,603 --> 00:27:35,333
(lively music)
608
00:27:35,333 --> 00:27:37,670
The heart of Paxos is the port of Gaios,
609
00:27:37,670 --> 00:27:39,550
which is also the main commercial hub.
610
00:27:39,550 --> 00:27:42,980
It's pretty much car free,
and apart from gorgeous views,
611
00:27:42,980 --> 00:27:45,830
there's also great shopping
and dining to be enjoyed.
612
00:27:45,830 --> 00:27:48,180
The best thing about it
is the laid-back mood.
613
00:27:48,180 --> 00:27:50,050
Thanks to being a little tricky to access,
614
00:27:50,050 --> 00:27:52,170
it's not a bustling tourist hot spot.
615
00:27:52,170 --> 00:27:55,810
The result is a place relatively
free of outside influences,
616
00:27:55,810 --> 00:27:58,030
where you have to more or
less entertain yourself
617
00:27:58,030 --> 00:28:00,260
by exploring the alleyways and beaches.
618
00:28:00,260 --> 00:28:02,740
Or you can just chill out
at a tavern or a cafe.
619
00:28:02,740 --> 00:28:04,890
Mind you, the food here is awesome,
620
00:28:04,890 --> 00:28:07,023
which isn't the best
thing for the waistline.
621
00:28:08,560 --> 00:28:10,650
How many dogs like Pongo ride a motorbike?
622
00:28:10,650 --> 00:28:12,230
- Three, four, maybe.
- Yeah?
623
00:28:12,230 --> 00:28:13,670
So he's special, eh?
(man laughs)
624
00:28:13,670 --> 00:28:15,020
You love Pongo, eh?
- Certain, yeah.
625
00:28:15,020 --> 00:28:16,270
- How long have you had Pongo?
626
00:28:16,270 --> 00:28:17,360
- For nine years now.
627
00:28:17,360 --> 00:28:18,510
- And he's good on the bike?
628
00:28:18,510 --> 00:28:19,490
- Absolutely.
629
00:28:19,490 --> 00:28:20,950
- Can you show me?
- Of course.
630
00:28:20,950 --> 00:28:21,903
It's his routine.
631
00:28:23,036 --> 00:28:23,869
- You're going for a little
632
00:28:23,869 --> 00:28:24,702
(speaking in foreign language) now?
633
00:28:24,702 --> 00:28:25,885
- Yeah.
- For Pongo?
634
00:28:25,885 --> 00:28:29,802
(speaking in foreign language)
635
00:28:37,130 --> 00:28:41,190
(motorcycle horn beeping)
636
00:28:41,190 --> 00:28:42,710
If you're a stickler for a schedule,
637
00:28:42,710 --> 00:28:44,260
you might get a little stressed
638
00:28:44,260 --> 00:28:46,360
because folks here
operate on their own time,
639
00:28:46,360 --> 00:28:48,900
which means restaurant
service can be a tad slow,
640
00:28:48,900 --> 00:28:50,920
and tour guides might be a little late,
641
00:28:50,920 --> 00:28:52,570
but that's all part of the charm.
642
00:28:55,810 --> 00:28:58,070
Babi, I've heard that your olive oil
643
00:28:58,070 --> 00:28:59,750
is the best in the Ionian.
644
00:28:59,750 --> 00:29:01,290
Can I try it?
- It is very good olive oil.
645
00:29:01,290 --> 00:29:02,820
We take care.
- Good.
646
00:29:02,820 --> 00:29:04,113
Let's try it.
- Okay.
647
00:29:06,180 --> 00:29:07,330
This is the best quality,
648
00:29:07,330 --> 00:29:08,660
there are many different
qualities about the oil.
649
00:29:08,660 --> 00:29:10,510
- [Peter] But this is
the best quality right?
650
00:29:10,510 --> 00:29:11,430
The one I am trying now.
651
00:29:11,430 --> 00:29:12,520
- The extra virgin.
652
00:29:12,520 --> 00:29:13,896
This is the oil.
- Ah, look at that.
653
00:29:13,896 --> 00:29:17,870
- The extra virgin.
- Yeah, look at that.
654
00:29:17,870 --> 00:29:20,870
Let's try it, look at the colour
of that, that looks awesome.
655
00:29:22,023 --> 00:29:22,930
- Okay.
- Okay.
656
00:29:22,930 --> 00:29:24,180
Let's give it a shot, eh?
657
00:29:27,698 --> 00:29:28,680
This is the only way to try it.
658
00:29:28,680 --> 00:29:31,480
Olive oil, bread, my grandmother
lived to 102 with this.
659
00:29:32,890 --> 00:29:33,723
Ah, ah!
660
00:29:35,180 --> 00:29:36,013
Top!
661
00:29:36,013 --> 00:29:37,180
(speaking in foreign language)
662
00:29:37,180 --> 00:29:38,717
Come on, let's go.
663
00:29:38,717 --> 00:29:39,932
That's awesome.
664
00:29:39,932 --> 00:29:41,760
(speaking in foreign language)
665
00:29:41,760 --> 00:29:43,544
Mate, that thing is
half full, look at that.
666
00:29:43,544 --> 00:29:45,736
Ah, look at that.
667
00:29:45,736 --> 00:29:48,399
Look at the colour of
that, will you? (laughing)
668
00:29:48,399 --> 00:29:50,910
(sniffing)
And that aroma.
669
00:29:50,910 --> 00:29:53,170
(sniffing)
Oh, it's so good.
670
00:29:53,170 --> 00:29:54,003
I could live on this stuff.
671
00:29:54,003 --> 00:29:57,140
(gentle guitar music)
672
00:30:05,177 --> 00:30:08,010
(laughing)
673
00:30:08,010 --> 00:30:10,370
Look at the colour, look
how green this stuff is.
674
00:30:10,370 --> 00:30:15,370
That's the best olive oil in
the Ionian, possibly the world.
675
00:30:15,394 --> 00:30:16,502
(inhaling sharply)
676
00:30:16,502 --> 00:30:21,502
Oh, my baby.
677
00:30:30,621 --> 00:30:34,923
That is so good.
678
00:30:34,923 --> 00:30:35,756
Mm!
679
00:30:42,483 --> 00:30:45,066
(lively music)
680
00:30:52,820 --> 00:30:55,100
- And we're walking up
to this far viewpoint
681
00:30:55,100 --> 00:30:59,751
where you overlook the Papadi Cave.
682
00:30:59,751 --> 00:31:03,240
- Despite its size, Paxos
has plenty of great walks.
683
00:31:03,240 --> 00:31:06,530
But to find the hidden gems,
you need some inside knowledge.
684
00:31:06,530 --> 00:31:08,990
Thankfully, local guide
Lefcothea had some time
685
00:31:08,990 --> 00:31:11,287
to show me around her
special piece of the world.
686
00:31:11,287 --> 00:31:15,660
Wow, the view looks completely
different from up here.
687
00:31:15,660 --> 00:31:17,862
Lefcothea, don't go too close.
- Don't worry.
688
00:31:17,862 --> 00:31:18,820
(Peter chuckling)
689
00:31:18,820 --> 00:31:20,530
- You know I have a problem
with heights, right?
690
00:31:20,530 --> 00:31:21,363
- Yeah.
691
00:31:21,363 --> 00:31:22,750
- [Peter] Now, is that Corfu over there?
692
00:31:22,750 --> 00:31:24,350
- [Lefcothea] Yeah, you
can see Corfu there.
693
00:31:24,350 --> 00:31:27,830
And when the weather is more
clear, because now it is misty,
694
00:31:27,830 --> 00:31:29,240
it seems so close.
695
00:31:29,240 --> 00:31:31,370
- And Italy is all the way out there?
696
00:31:31,370 --> 00:31:32,203
- That way.
697
00:31:32,203 --> 00:31:33,920
- That way, that way, that way.
698
00:31:33,920 --> 00:31:35,330
Wow.
699
00:31:35,330 --> 00:31:37,650
You know what, I'm a bit shaky.
700
00:31:37,650 --> 00:31:41,003
Let's keep going.
- Okay. (chuckling)
701
00:31:42,260 --> 00:31:43,940
- [Peter] One of the most
popular walks on the island
702
00:31:43,940 --> 00:31:45,420
takes you to the white cliffs overlooking
703
00:31:45,420 --> 00:31:46,920
the Papanikolis Cave.
704
00:31:46,920 --> 00:31:49,790
It's a great hike, and
Lefcothea says is an ideal way
705
00:31:49,790 --> 00:31:52,370
to learn a little more about
how the Paxiot people lived
706
00:31:52,370 --> 00:31:54,193
in the days before modern luxuries.
707
00:31:59,130 --> 00:32:02,470
I see maybe 10, 12
wells, why so many wells?
708
00:32:02,470 --> 00:32:04,150
- [Lefcothea] Because each family
709
00:32:04,150 --> 00:32:06,340
used to build their own well.
710
00:32:06,340 --> 00:32:07,750
Because imagine in those days,
711
00:32:07,750 --> 00:32:11,390
the smallest family had about 12 children.
712
00:32:11,390 --> 00:32:12,430
- Wow.
- Of course,
713
00:32:12,430 --> 00:32:14,790
it was very important,
because imagine in those days,
714
00:32:14,790 --> 00:32:18,820
they used to come here,
and collect the water,
715
00:32:18,820 --> 00:32:21,080
and take it back to their houses.
716
00:32:21,080 --> 00:32:23,880
- Water was a very important
resource obviously.
717
00:32:23,880 --> 00:32:25,821
- Yes, very important.
- I mean, they had the key.
718
00:32:25,821 --> 00:32:26,654
They locked them.
- Yes.
719
00:32:26,654 --> 00:32:28,210
They locked them as well.
- Okay.
720
00:32:28,210 --> 00:32:30,650
Well, we've got a long walk
to do, let's keep going.
721
00:32:30,650 --> 00:32:33,330
Lefcothea, that means in English?
722
00:32:33,330 --> 00:32:34,580
- The white goddess.
723
00:32:34,580 --> 00:32:35,867
- White goddess?
- Yes.
724
00:32:35,867 --> 00:32:38,750
- What an awesome name.
(both laughing)
725
00:32:38,750 --> 00:32:40,803
I gotta watch the path now.
- Yeah, be careful.
726
00:32:40,803 --> 00:32:41,860
- 'Cause this is gonna be a heavy path
727
00:32:41,860 --> 00:32:42,693
we're going on, right?
728
00:32:42,693 --> 00:32:44,530
- Yeah, we are going a good walk down.
729
00:32:44,530 --> 00:32:46,654
- Okay, I'm going with the white goddess.
730
00:32:46,654 --> 00:32:48,290
(Lefcothea chuckles)
731
00:32:48,290 --> 00:32:49,420
So, what's that here?
732
00:32:49,420 --> 00:32:52,770
- Here you can see that this
is an style of Paxiot house.
733
00:32:52,770 --> 00:32:55,790
It's amazing because you
can see in one house,
734
00:32:55,790 --> 00:32:59,350
the traditional ochre
colour that used to be,
735
00:32:59,350 --> 00:33:03,310
and the stone part, so
you will have all stone,
736
00:33:03,310 --> 00:33:05,080
all painted in this colour.
737
00:33:05,080 --> 00:33:06,229
- In the ochre?
- Yeah.
738
00:33:06,229 --> 00:33:07,662
- Ochre, ochre.
- Ochre, yeah.
739
00:33:07,662 --> 00:33:09,633
- Okay, okay, okay, okay.
740
00:33:12,457 --> 00:33:15,683
So, I noticed that these paths
are in pretty good condition.
741
00:33:16,692 --> 00:33:17,525
How is that so?
742
00:33:17,525 --> 00:33:19,110
'Cause there are so many of these paths.
743
00:33:19,110 --> 00:33:23,720
- Actually, the last two
years, we have volunteers
744
00:33:23,720 --> 00:33:28,720
that every Sunday, we get
together, and we clean a path.
745
00:33:31,660 --> 00:33:33,150
- Wow, that's great.
746
00:33:33,150 --> 00:33:36,290
- Which is very good because
we have a lot of visitors
747
00:33:36,290 --> 00:33:40,490
that like to walk, and have
more and more every year.
748
00:33:40,490 --> 00:33:41,560
- That's great.
749
00:33:41,560 --> 00:33:44,390
So, how many paths are
there here in Paxos?
750
00:33:44,390 --> 00:33:45,870
- About 30 of them,
751
00:33:45,870 --> 00:33:48,633
but we're doing a lot
of work to open more.
752
00:33:49,940 --> 00:33:51,300
- That's great.
753
00:33:51,300 --> 00:33:54,110
These paths were originally
built during Venetian times,
754
00:33:54,110 --> 00:33:56,680
and despite little
upkeep, they remain today.
755
00:33:56,680 --> 00:33:59,220
500, 600, 700 years
from the Venetian times,
756
00:33:59,220 --> 00:34:01,110
that's amazing.
- Yes.
757
00:34:01,110 --> 00:34:02,030
- [Peter] A couple of them are falling,
758
00:34:02,030 --> 00:34:04,154
but they got to fall, you know.
759
00:34:04,154 --> 00:34:05,270
They can't be like this forever, can they?
760
00:34:05,270 --> 00:34:08,243
500, 600 years, my buildings
won't last that long.
761
00:34:09,930 --> 00:34:11,220
It never ceases to amaze me
762
00:34:11,220 --> 00:34:13,570
how many olive trees you
find on these islands.
763
00:34:13,570 --> 00:34:14,680
They're everywhere.
764
00:34:14,680 --> 00:34:15,650
But they're put to good use
765
00:34:15,650 --> 00:34:17,950
making that amazing olive
oil I tried earlier.
766
00:34:17,950 --> 00:34:20,100
Another one of these houses, eh?
767
00:34:20,100 --> 00:34:21,000
- [Lefcothea] Yes.
768
00:34:22,080 --> 00:34:23,460
- Abandoned.
769
00:34:23,460 --> 00:34:24,940
Another abandoned house.
770
00:34:24,940 --> 00:34:26,830
It seems like this whole area,
771
00:34:26,830 --> 00:34:28,830
this village is full of abandoned houses.
772
00:34:28,830 --> 00:34:31,940
- Yes, but imagine that Paxos used to be,
773
00:34:31,940 --> 00:34:33,513
have 10,000 people.
774
00:34:34,783 --> 00:34:35,616
- [Peter] Now?
775
00:34:35,616 --> 00:34:37,260
- Now, only about 2,500.
776
00:34:37,260 --> 00:34:39,980
- So where did all these people go?
777
00:34:39,980 --> 00:34:42,920
- Well, about the '60s,
778
00:34:42,920 --> 00:34:45,960
they left Paxos, went
to Australia and stayed.
779
00:34:45,960 --> 00:34:47,030
They went there
780
00:34:47,030 --> 00:34:50,640
because the money from the
olive oil was not enough,
781
00:34:50,640 --> 00:34:53,030
so some of them started new jobs,
782
00:34:53,030 --> 00:34:56,380
sending the money that
they made back to Paxos.
783
00:34:56,380 --> 00:34:58,160
- So that they could rejuvenate Paxos.
784
00:34:58,160 --> 00:35:00,110
I see villas being built up the road.
785
00:35:00,110 --> 00:35:03,178
These are these expats or the diaspora
786
00:35:03,178 --> 00:35:06,300
that are bringing money
that they've earned overseas
787
00:35:06,300 --> 00:35:07,930
back to rejuvenate Paxos.
788
00:35:07,930 --> 00:35:09,000
- Exactly.
789
00:35:09,000 --> 00:35:13,830
And this is how Paxos become
to be a touristic place.
790
00:35:13,830 --> 00:35:18,830
Because they build the new
villas, new houses, hotels,
791
00:35:19,460 --> 00:35:23,290
and then the last 10 years,
it become more and more.
792
00:35:23,290 --> 00:35:24,600
- It's going up.
- Up.
793
00:35:24,600 --> 00:35:25,600
- Fantastic.
- Popular.
794
00:35:25,600 --> 00:35:26,522
- [Peter] Fantastic.
795
00:35:26,522 --> 00:35:29,105
(gentle music)
796
00:35:30,990 --> 00:35:33,410
- [Lefcothea] I want to show
you the front of the house,
797
00:35:33,410 --> 00:35:35,900
how amazing it is.
- Ah.
798
00:35:35,900 --> 00:35:36,733
You know, Lefcothea,
799
00:35:36,733 --> 00:35:39,660
this looks like some
sort of luxurious villa
800
00:35:39,660 --> 00:35:43,470
that it was at the time, because
you can see the front gate,
801
00:35:43,470 --> 00:35:45,670
look at these columns
here, and the front fence,
802
00:35:45,670 --> 00:35:46,503
they spent a lot of time.
803
00:35:46,503 --> 00:35:48,820
And there's a balcony,
there's a second floor.
804
00:35:48,820 --> 00:35:52,140
There's no second floors on
any of these other buildings.
805
00:35:52,140 --> 00:35:53,840
I can just imagine what
it was like living here.
806
00:35:53,840 --> 00:35:56,277
And it's got the view as
well, the wonderful view.
807
00:35:56,277 --> 00:35:57,130
- View of Lakka.
808
00:35:57,130 --> 00:35:58,143
- Yeah, wow.
809
00:36:00,310 --> 00:36:02,780
I've heard this same story
told time and time again
810
00:36:02,780 --> 00:36:04,400
in my travels through Greece.
811
00:36:04,400 --> 00:36:06,810
The small, inland towns suffered greatly
812
00:36:06,810 --> 00:36:08,560
thanks to the industrial revolution
813
00:36:08,560 --> 00:36:11,710
and a shifting economy that
relied on tourism and shipping.
814
00:36:11,710 --> 00:36:13,570
It led to many of them being abandoned.
815
00:36:13,570 --> 00:36:15,940
But a few are hanging on,
like this little settlement
816
00:36:15,940 --> 00:36:18,530
that surrounds the Church of Hypapante.
817
00:36:18,530 --> 00:36:19,830
The few people that remain here
818
00:36:19,830 --> 00:36:22,420
carry with them the area's
history, and are responsible
819
00:36:22,420 --> 00:36:25,350
for keeping the eroding
buildings relatively intact.
820
00:36:25,350 --> 00:36:27,270
Who knows how much longer
they'll hang in there,
821
00:36:27,270 --> 00:36:30,130
when in the distance, are
the thriving coastal towns
822
00:36:30,130 --> 00:36:31,700
having more chance of employment,
823
00:36:31,700 --> 00:36:34,510
and life is just that
little bit more convenient.
824
00:36:34,510 --> 00:36:37,000
It's one of those distant
ports where my next stop lay.
825
00:36:37,000 --> 00:36:38,720
Tomorrow morning, I had an early start
826
00:36:38,720 --> 00:36:41,383
to meet with a baker who makes
bread the traditional way.
827
00:36:55,661 --> 00:36:58,244
(lively music)
828
00:37:09,690 --> 00:37:11,397
The traditional means
by which things are done
829
00:37:11,397 --> 00:37:13,060
are slowly disappearing.
830
00:37:13,060 --> 00:37:16,360
Nowadays it's all about
efficiency and minimising cost.
831
00:37:16,360 --> 00:37:18,130
Take baking for example.
832
00:37:18,130 --> 00:37:19,560
The artform of making wood-fired bread
833
00:37:19,560 --> 00:37:21,860
is something that has
disappeared in much of the world.
834
00:37:21,860 --> 00:37:25,700
Yes, it's making a comeback in
trendy cafes in major cities,
835
00:37:25,700 --> 00:37:27,360
but the places where it was first done
836
00:37:27,360 --> 00:37:29,460
have become reliant on
the mass-produced stuff
837
00:37:29,460 --> 00:37:31,510
that's brought in from elsewhere.
838
00:37:31,510 --> 00:37:33,440
Vasili maintains the old ways,
839
00:37:33,440 --> 00:37:35,140
and bakes the best bread on the island
840
00:37:35,140 --> 00:37:37,100
using techniques handed
down by his forefathers
841
00:37:37,100 --> 00:37:38,533
over the last 120 years.
842
00:37:39,450 --> 00:37:44,340
Now, before we got here
at some ungodly hour.
843
00:37:44,340 --> 00:37:47,860
Vasili basically made the dough,
in that little bowl there,
844
00:37:47,860 --> 00:37:49,810
well, it's not a little
bowl, it's a big bowl,
845
00:37:49,810 --> 00:37:53,513
and put these put these
loaves together, separately.
846
00:37:54,649 --> 00:37:57,037
It's very impressive
the way he has done it.
847
00:37:57,037 --> 00:37:58,929
You can see it's been
done many, many times.
848
00:37:58,929 --> 00:38:02,096
(gentle guitar music)
849
00:38:10,230 --> 00:38:12,610
Vasili produces between
300 and 500 loaves a day,
850
00:38:12,610 --> 00:38:14,230
all done by hand,
851
00:38:14,230 --> 00:38:17,230
using a process that's changed
little in over a century.
852
00:38:17,230 --> 00:38:18,220
It's quite therapeutic
853
00:38:18,220 --> 00:38:20,570
to watch him methodically
going about his work.
854
00:38:33,110 --> 00:38:34,593
Vasili doesn't take holidays.
855
00:38:48,237 --> 00:38:50,378
(laughing)
856
00:38:50,378 --> 00:38:52,150
He's so passionate about the business
857
00:38:52,150 --> 00:38:55,187
and keeping the villagers with bread,
858
00:38:55,187 --> 00:38:56,280
and the restaurants with bread
859
00:38:56,280 --> 00:38:58,720
that he just doesn't take any holidays.
860
00:38:58,720 --> 00:39:00,850
12 o'clock to three o'clock,
861
00:39:00,850 --> 00:39:02,950
midnight, three o'clock in the afternoon.
862
00:39:02,950 --> 00:39:04,203
That's some major hours.
863
00:39:09,260 --> 00:39:11,430
So what's fantastic about this is,
864
00:39:11,430 --> 00:39:14,060
the reason he runs with a wood-fired oven
865
00:39:14,060 --> 00:39:16,160
is not just because it's traditional,
866
00:39:16,160 --> 00:39:19,970
but they're using the olive
tree cutoffs from the island,
867
00:39:19,970 --> 00:39:22,450
'cause there's 250,000
olive trees on the island,
868
00:39:22,450 --> 00:39:24,080
and they're always cutting them down
869
00:39:24,080 --> 00:39:25,860
after they pick the olives.
870
00:39:25,860 --> 00:39:27,650
There's all that timber
coming off the trees,
871
00:39:27,650 --> 00:39:29,350
and they're using it in the ovens.
872
00:39:36,190 --> 00:39:40,060
So, what Vasili is saying
is, some of his clients,
873
00:39:40,060 --> 00:39:42,840
'cause he doesn't only
sell bread to the village,
874
00:39:42,840 --> 00:39:44,080
but he sells it to restaurants,
875
00:39:44,080 --> 00:39:48,350
some of the restaurants
want well done bread,
876
00:39:48,350 --> 00:39:50,530
well cooked, dark bread.
877
00:39:50,530 --> 00:39:53,610
And that's the bread that goes
in first and comes out last.
878
00:39:53,610 --> 00:39:56,080
The other standard loaves
are up the front here.
879
00:39:56,080 --> 00:39:58,730
They go in last, come out first.
880
00:39:58,730 --> 00:40:02,310
So there's a variation of
cooking across this whole oven.
881
00:40:02,310 --> 00:40:05,580
I personally like bread
that's not that well cooked,
882
00:40:05,580 --> 00:40:08,900
and it's spongy and soft in
the middle, and almost moist,
883
00:40:08,900 --> 00:40:10,360
and that's the loaves at the front.
884
00:40:10,360 --> 00:40:11,450
They're the ones that
are gonna come out first,
885
00:40:11,450 --> 00:40:13,653
and one may disappear.
886
00:40:15,010 --> 00:40:15,900
This daily routine
887
00:40:15,900 --> 00:40:17,950
is one of those behind
the scenes processes
888
00:40:17,950 --> 00:40:21,070
that impacts our lives, yet
most of us take it for granted.
889
00:40:21,070 --> 00:40:23,960
Having seen the hard work
and dedication of Vasili,
890
00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:25,960
I now have so much more appreciation
891
00:40:25,960 --> 00:40:27,810
for the artisans that
make the delicious bread
892
00:40:27,810 --> 00:40:28,860
I love to eat.
893
00:40:28,860 --> 00:40:30,720
So next time you're sitting by the water,
894
00:40:30,720 --> 00:40:32,610
enjoying your bread and olive oil,
895
00:40:32,610 --> 00:40:35,210
think of the labour of love
that went into making it.
896
00:40:36,460 --> 00:40:37,910
If you're anything like me,
897
00:40:37,910 --> 00:40:40,610
knowing where it came from
makes it taste even better.
898
00:40:42,949 --> 00:40:43,782
Mm!
899
00:40:46,302 --> 00:40:48,885
(gentle music)
900
00:40:52,870 --> 00:40:53,913
It's fantastic.
901
00:40:54,830 --> 00:40:55,663
Organic.
902
00:40:56,911 --> 00:40:58,340
Mm!
903
00:40:58,340 --> 00:40:59,830
Vasili doesn't need to say much.
904
00:40:59,830 --> 00:41:02,020
He lets his bread do all the talking.
905
00:41:02,020 --> 00:41:04,730
I, for one, am thankful
for people like him.
906
00:41:04,730 --> 00:41:06,660
He's passionate, hardworking,
907
00:41:06,660 --> 00:41:09,030
and understanding of the
importance of his craft.
908
00:41:09,030 --> 00:41:11,930
He brings joy to the
lives of people every day,
909
00:41:11,930 --> 00:41:14,153
and that's something we
should all aspire to.
910
00:41:21,290 --> 00:41:23,640
From the smoky and dark bakery
911
00:41:23,640 --> 00:41:26,120
to the bright and
colourful coast of Paxos,
912
00:41:26,120 --> 00:41:28,420
the environments couldn't
be more contrasting.
913
00:41:29,310 --> 00:41:31,220
Behind us is Italy.
914
00:41:31,220 --> 00:41:34,040
In front of us is the
northwest coast of Paxos.
915
00:41:34,040 --> 00:41:36,480
And just in behind here,
we're about to see it,
916
00:41:36,480 --> 00:41:40,360
is another cave that the
submarine Papanikolis
917
00:41:40,360 --> 00:41:41,540
used to hide in World War II.
918
00:41:41,540 --> 00:41:45,380
We saw it in Meganisi, it
happened in here as well.
919
00:41:45,380 --> 00:41:46,633
We're gonna go and have a look.
920
00:41:52,520 --> 00:41:54,710
Wow, look at that.
921
00:41:54,710 --> 00:41:56,592
Mate, that looks like it's
gonna fall on us any second.
922
00:41:56,592 --> 00:41:57,480
- I know.
- Eh?
923
00:41:57,480 --> 00:41:59,880
- We should be careful.
- We should be careful.
924
00:42:02,080 --> 00:42:03,080
- [Driver] You wonder how
they fit a submarine in here.
925
00:42:03,080 --> 00:42:06,320
It's only five metres deep. (chuckling)
926
00:42:06,320 --> 00:42:07,920
- Well, they were little
submarines back then.
927
00:42:07,920 --> 00:42:10,830
They're not those big
ones that they have today.
928
00:42:10,830 --> 00:42:12,010
Should we head out?
- Yeah.
929
00:42:12,010 --> 00:42:13,010
- Let's do it buddy.
930
00:42:25,830 --> 00:42:29,670
This is a perfect example
of nature doing its work
931
00:42:29,670 --> 00:42:31,460
over millions of years.
932
00:42:31,460 --> 00:42:35,460
Over there you can see that
collapse, that cliff collapse.
933
00:42:35,460 --> 00:42:37,330
That happened in 2007.
934
00:42:37,330 --> 00:42:39,050
And it actually formed that beach.
935
00:42:39,050 --> 00:42:41,088
That's what it looked like before.
936
00:42:41,088 --> 00:42:43,325
That's probably about
20 metres deep there,
937
00:42:43,325 --> 00:42:44,830
we're in about 30 metres of water here.
938
00:42:44,830 --> 00:42:46,840
But now, all that dirt coming down,
939
00:42:46,840 --> 00:42:48,800
all of that limestone
has formed that beach.
940
00:42:48,800 --> 00:42:51,670
The other thing I like about
this tectonic structure here,
941
00:42:51,670 --> 00:42:53,750
the earthquakes and the tectonic movement
942
00:42:53,750 --> 00:42:56,670
is pushing Paxos towards the mainland.
943
00:42:56,670 --> 00:43:00,160
And what happens is you see
this limestone gritting away,
944
00:43:00,160 --> 00:43:04,160
you see these little
shelves, this pancaking.
945
00:43:04,160 --> 00:43:05,810
It's absolutely awesome.
946
00:43:05,810 --> 00:43:06,737
It's changing all the time,
947
00:43:06,737 --> 00:43:08,340
but we don't get to see the big changes,
948
00:43:08,340 --> 00:43:10,009
except for this one here.
949
00:43:10,009 --> 00:43:12,270
(gentle music)
950
00:43:12,270 --> 00:43:15,920
What a spectacular and fun way
to finish my time on Paxos.
951
00:43:15,920 --> 00:43:19,060
After a swim at a private beach,
it was back aboard Mia Zoi
952
00:43:19,060 --> 00:43:21,800
for a cruise to one of our
final stops of the series.
953
00:43:21,800 --> 00:43:22,750
In the next episode,
954
00:43:22,750 --> 00:43:24,880
I'm visiting the tiny island of Antipaxos
955
00:43:24,880 --> 00:43:27,880
before heading to our
final port of call, Corfu.
956
00:43:27,880 --> 00:43:30,040
As they say, you want to end on a high,
957
00:43:30,040 --> 00:43:32,190
and it's the perfect
place to do just that.
74468
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