Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:00,090 --> 00:00:02,673
(ethnic music)
2
00:00:22,900 --> 00:00:24,530
- From the bustling streets of Athens
3
00:00:24,530 --> 00:00:26,100
and the historic port of Hydra,
4
00:00:26,100 --> 00:00:28,647
to the beaches of Zakinthos
and the villages of Kythera,
5
00:00:28,647 --> 00:00:30,130
our journey over the coming weeks
6
00:00:30,130 --> 00:00:33,320
spans many of the Ionian
islands, some well-known,
7
00:00:33,320 --> 00:00:35,310
others that few ever get to visit.
8
00:00:35,310 --> 00:00:36,143
But before heading off,
9
00:00:36,143 --> 00:00:37,890
you probably want to know
a little bit about me.
10
00:00:37,890 --> 00:00:39,520
My story starts as boy growing up
11
00:00:39,520 --> 00:00:41,100
in the inner suburbs of Sydney.
12
00:00:41,100 --> 00:00:42,920
Like a lot of Greeks early last century,
13
00:00:42,920 --> 00:00:46,010
my parents moved overseas to
find a better life abroad.
14
00:00:46,010 --> 00:00:48,400
They arrived with very little
and worked extremely hard
15
00:00:48,400 --> 00:00:50,360
to give my sisters and
I a loving upbringing.
16
00:00:50,360 --> 00:00:51,790
They also made me believe that if I, too,
17
00:00:51,790 --> 00:00:54,100
worked hard enough, I
could achieve anything.
18
00:00:54,100 --> 00:00:56,930
54 years later, I've built
a successful business.
19
00:00:56,930 --> 00:00:59,950
And that has enabled me to do
things I once only dreamed of.
20
00:00:59,950 --> 00:01:01,490
One of those dreams was to step foot
21
00:01:01,490 --> 00:01:04,570
on all 227 inhabited Greek Islands,
22
00:01:04,570 --> 00:01:06,460
and I'm gonna take a big chunk out of that
23
00:01:06,460 --> 00:01:08,610
in this first series.
24
00:01:08,610 --> 00:01:11,450
So far, it's been an exciting
and eye-opening journey,
25
00:01:11,450 --> 00:01:14,060
with numerous occasions
where the spectacular scenery
26
00:01:14,060 --> 00:01:16,340
and incredible history
have left me gobsmacked.
27
00:01:16,340 --> 00:01:18,700
There's no denying that Greece
is a remarkable country,
28
00:01:18,700 --> 00:01:20,800
with wonderful people and a rich culture.
29
00:01:20,800 --> 00:01:22,400
I've still got so much
more of it to explore,
30
00:01:22,400 --> 00:01:24,150
both above and below the water.
31
00:01:24,150 --> 00:01:26,520
My travels now see me on
the island of Kefalonia,
32
00:01:26,520 --> 00:01:29,460
off the western coast of the
mainland, in the Ionian Sea.
33
00:01:29,460 --> 00:01:31,530
The days ahead are all
about immersing myself
34
00:01:31,530 --> 00:01:34,050
in the local way of life, seeing
the place through the eyes
35
00:01:34,050 --> 00:01:35,950
of those that call the island home.
36
00:01:35,950 --> 00:01:38,000
I'll also be exploring some
of the highlights that draw
37
00:01:38,000 --> 00:01:40,900
tourists here in search of
a unique Greek experience,
38
00:01:40,900 --> 00:01:43,870
in a gorgeous part of the world
that often gets forgotten.
39
00:01:43,870 --> 00:01:45,490
One thing you'll soon realise,
40
00:01:45,490 --> 00:01:48,860
is that Kefalonia offers you a
truly diverse range of things
41
00:01:48,860 --> 00:01:51,610
to see and do, and has
plenty of the old-world charm
42
00:01:51,610 --> 00:01:53,160
that the islands are loved for.
43
00:01:55,610 --> 00:01:56,930
From the capital, Argostoli,
44
00:01:56,930 --> 00:01:59,620
I'm making my way around the
island to the port of Sami.
45
00:01:59,620 --> 00:02:01,510
It's a relatively small settlement,
46
00:02:01,510 --> 00:02:03,850
with pebbled beaches and
a busy harbour front.
47
00:02:03,850 --> 00:02:06,598
However, there's lots to
check out in this area.
48
00:02:06,598 --> 00:02:11,598
(bright music)
(waves crashing softly)
49
00:02:16,520 --> 00:02:18,820
After thousands of years of fishing,
50
00:02:18,820 --> 00:02:20,420
the Ionian and Mediterranean seas
51
00:02:20,420 --> 00:02:22,070
have become greatly depleted.
52
00:02:22,070 --> 00:02:24,910
In some areas, the once
fertile waters are now barren,
53
00:02:24,910 --> 00:02:26,800
meaning the fishermen have
to travel much further
54
00:02:26,800 --> 00:02:27,900
for their bounty.
55
00:02:27,900 --> 00:02:30,610
In this case, an Egyptian boat
has arrived into the port,
56
00:02:30,610 --> 00:02:33,140
with a freezer full of tasty morsels.
57
00:02:33,140 --> 00:02:34,580
It's not uncommon to find vessels
58
00:02:34,580 --> 00:02:36,250
from all around the Mediterranean,
59
00:02:36,250 --> 00:02:37,360
coming into harbours with their hulls
60
00:02:37,360 --> 00:02:39,810
laden with fish of all sorts of varieties.
61
00:02:39,810 --> 00:02:41,820
Chefs from the town's
restaurants and taverns,
62
00:02:41,820 --> 00:02:44,170
as well as other locals,
will buy their fresh produce
63
00:02:44,170 --> 00:02:45,400
straight off the back of the boat,
64
00:02:45,400 --> 00:02:47,100
with no middleman involved.
65
00:02:47,100 --> 00:02:49,810
Mackerel, anchovies,
and of course sardines,
66
00:02:49,810 --> 00:02:51,163
are typically up for grabs.
67
00:02:52,000 --> 00:02:53,930
Come and, wow, look at this.
68
00:02:53,930 --> 00:02:54,830
Sardines.
69
00:02:54,830 --> 00:02:56,280
This is what my wife loves.
70
00:02:56,280 --> 00:02:57,113
Helen loves this.
71
00:02:57,113 --> 00:02:59,835
If I took this back to
Helen, I'm good for a week.
72
00:02:59,835 --> 00:03:02,140
(laughs)
73
00:03:02,140 --> 00:03:03,810
Fantastic, have a look at that.
74
00:03:03,810 --> 00:03:05,200
They're Egyptian fishermen.
75
00:03:05,200 --> 00:03:06,033
They come all the way.
76
00:03:06,033 --> 00:03:08,080
You wonder why the Mediterranean
is fished out, man.
77
00:03:08,080 --> 00:03:09,586
(laughs)
78
00:03:09,586 --> 00:03:12,723
(speaking foreign language)
79
00:03:12,723 --> 00:03:14,050
- It's gonna take two minutes
because they've got to serve
80
00:03:14,050 --> 00:03:16,900
all the shops before they serve us.
81
00:03:16,900 --> 00:03:19,590
They get the, as Kyriako
says, they get the alpha vita,
82
00:03:19,590 --> 00:03:21,071
and we get the other stuff.
83
00:03:21,071 --> 00:03:24,738
(speaking foreign language)
84
00:03:26,943 --> 00:03:28,050
- So we get the secondary stuff.
85
00:03:28,050 --> 00:03:29,420
But because the camera's here,
86
00:03:29,420 --> 00:03:32,140
we might get some decent stuff, who knows?
87
00:03:32,140 --> 00:03:33,019
- These are fresh, of course.
88
00:03:33,019 --> 00:03:34,260
- It's fresh, of course it's fresh,
89
00:03:34,260 --> 00:03:35,560
it's good gear, good gear.
90
00:03:38,200 --> 00:03:40,600
Every port in Greece has
some sort of fishing fleet.
91
00:03:40,600 --> 00:03:42,470
Most mornings you'll have
at least one or two boats
92
00:03:42,470 --> 00:03:44,470
arriving early with their catch for sale.
93
00:03:44,470 --> 00:03:47,020
We're pretty spoilt when
it comes to fresh seafood.
94
00:03:48,742 --> 00:03:52,409
(speaking foreign language)
95
00:03:53,824 --> 00:03:56,491
(both laughing)
96
00:03:58,264 --> 00:04:00,668
(speaking foreign language)
97
00:04:00,668 --> 00:04:02,457
- Look at that, oh yeah.
98
00:04:02,457 --> 00:04:05,119
(speaking foreign language)
99
00:04:05,119 --> 00:04:05,952
- Fresh sardines.
100
00:04:05,952 --> 00:04:07,480
A little bit small, but it's fresh,
101
00:04:07,480 --> 00:04:08,420
that's the important thing.
102
00:04:08,420 --> 00:04:11,713
Let's go.
(gentle guitar music)
103
00:04:17,010 --> 00:04:19,040
- Just north of Sami,
around a five-minute drive,
104
00:04:19,040 --> 00:04:22,240
is a rather unique formation
called Melissani Lake, or cave.
105
00:04:22,240 --> 00:04:23,073
Take your pick.
106
00:04:23,073 --> 00:04:25,520
In Greek mythology it's
known as the cave of Nymphs
107
00:04:25,520 --> 00:04:27,150
and is generally the first
stop for most tourists
108
00:04:27,150 --> 00:04:29,733
in the area, so who am I
to break the tradition?
109
00:04:36,121 --> 00:04:38,110
I don't think I've ever
seen anything like this.
110
00:04:38,110 --> 00:04:40,490
There wouldn't be many places
like this in the world.
111
00:04:40,490 --> 00:04:41,323
- Three.
112
00:04:41,323 --> 00:04:42,791
- Three places like this in the world?
113
00:04:42,791 --> 00:04:43,960
And where are the other two places?
114
00:04:43,960 --> 00:04:46,327
- In Mexico and in Philippines.
115
00:04:46,327 --> 00:04:47,390
- And the Philippines.
116
00:04:47,390 --> 00:04:49,490
And I'm looking at the water,
it's a beautiful blue water,
117
00:04:49,490 --> 00:04:53,460
my understanding is that
it comes from the sinks
118
00:04:53,460 --> 00:04:54,753
in Argostoli, and it
comes all the way here.
119
00:04:54,753 --> 00:04:57,573
- From the other side of
the island, Karavados.
120
00:04:57,573 --> 00:05:00,030
- That's the Karavados,
which we call the sinks.
121
00:05:00,030 --> 00:05:01,650
That's like 15 kilometres?
122
00:05:01,650 --> 00:05:04,170
- About 17, under the ground.
123
00:05:04,170 --> 00:05:06,870
- So it's saltwater coming
in, and let me just taste it.
124
00:05:06,870 --> 00:05:10,960
- Brackish water, 25% salt in water.
125
00:05:10,960 --> 00:05:13,370
- Okay, so it's got some fresh
stuff on the way through.
126
00:05:13,370 --> 00:05:14,230
- [Babi] Under the island.
127
00:05:14,230 --> 00:05:16,530
- Now I'm told it comes up hill,
the water is coming uphill,
128
00:05:16,530 --> 00:05:18,700
is that sound right to
you, that it goes up?
129
00:05:18,700 --> 00:05:19,964
- It goes up.
- It goes up?
130
00:05:19,964 --> 00:05:21,995
- This level is higher than the sea level.
131
00:05:21,995 --> 00:05:23,950
And the water start from the sea.
132
00:05:23,950 --> 00:05:24,860
- Amazing.
133
00:05:24,860 --> 00:05:28,800
Amazing, it's such a beautiful texture.
134
00:05:28,800 --> 00:05:30,550
Nature.
- Very strange.
135
00:05:30,550 --> 00:05:31,570
An illogical phenomenon.
136
00:05:31,570 --> 00:05:33,330
- Yeah, it is, isn't it?
137
00:05:44,657 --> 00:05:46,740
So, I see that massive mound there,
138
00:05:46,740 --> 00:05:49,090
that looks like it's
collapsed from the roof, Babi,
139
00:05:49,090 --> 00:05:50,310
how long ago did that happen?
140
00:05:50,310 --> 00:05:52,080
- Long time, 5,000 years ago.
141
00:05:52,080 --> 00:05:54,920
- Right, and that opening, is that--
142
00:05:54,920 --> 00:05:56,430
- The same time.
143
00:05:56,430 --> 00:05:59,600
When discovered this
cave, it was all closed.
144
00:05:59,600 --> 00:06:00,433
- Wow.
145
00:06:00,433 --> 00:06:03,370
- And the roof now is only
three or four metres thick.
146
00:06:03,370 --> 00:06:04,520
- In depth?
147
00:06:04,520 --> 00:06:07,240
Well, that will open up soon,
in another 1,000 or two years?
148
00:06:07,240 --> 00:06:09,090
- Not today.
- Definitely not today.
149
00:06:10,750 --> 00:06:12,753
Look at those stalactites, wow.
150
00:06:13,650 --> 00:06:15,730
Stalic tights because they're tight,
151
00:06:15,730 --> 00:06:18,334
stalic mites because they're
coming up from the ground.
152
00:06:18,334 --> 00:06:21,050
- One centimetre every 100 years.
153
00:06:21,050 --> 00:06:24,150
Every hundred years, one centimetre, wow.
154
00:06:24,150 --> 00:06:26,690
That's impressive, there's
lots of them there.
155
00:06:26,690 --> 00:06:29,220
It's taken millions of
years for the cave to form,
156
00:06:29,220 --> 00:06:31,620
and in the centuries to
come, it'll keep evolving.
157
00:06:31,620 --> 00:06:33,230
Hopefully as time passes,
158
00:06:33,230 --> 00:06:35,400
our singing might improve a little, too.
159
00:06:35,400 --> 00:06:38,210
Normally, I only break into
tune after a few drinks.
160
00:06:38,210 --> 00:06:40,718
Maybe I was a little too
inspired by the surrounds.
161
00:06:40,718 --> 00:06:44,968
(both singing in foreign language)
162
00:06:57,486 --> 00:07:00,319
- I want you to sit down and sing.
163
00:07:01,861 --> 00:07:02,694
Oh, shit!
164
00:07:05,030 --> 00:07:06,280
Am I going the wrong way?
165
00:07:08,192 --> 00:07:10,880
(speaking foreign language)
166
00:07:10,880 --> 00:07:12,213
Sorry guys.
167
00:07:13,970 --> 00:07:16,030
It turns out my ability as a boatman
168
00:07:16,030 --> 00:07:18,153
is on par with my vocal skills.
169
00:07:18,153 --> 00:07:20,090
I might have to leave both to the experts,
170
00:07:20,090 --> 00:07:22,626
that's if I make it back to
shore without drowning the crew.
171
00:07:22,626 --> 00:07:24,540
You know, I can't row?
172
00:07:24,540 --> 00:07:26,230
It's a good thing I'm a strong swimmer.
173
00:07:26,230 --> 00:07:28,943
If this thing tips, it's
every man for himself.
174
00:07:34,481 --> 00:07:37,064
(ethnic music)
175
00:07:47,860 --> 00:07:49,830
Another glorious morning set the scene
176
00:07:49,830 --> 00:07:51,980
for what was going to be a special day.
177
00:07:51,980 --> 00:07:54,290
The port of Sami was slowly waking up,
178
00:07:54,290 --> 00:07:56,560
with a few folks quietly milling around
179
00:07:56,560 --> 00:07:58,720
and taking in the charming setting.
180
00:07:58,720 --> 00:08:00,980
The town is best described as quaint.
181
00:08:00,980 --> 00:08:02,720
It has an inviting feel to it,
182
00:08:02,720 --> 00:08:05,150
with a small harbour
and minimal development.
183
00:08:05,150 --> 00:08:06,580
It's actually fairly modern,
184
00:08:06,580 --> 00:08:09,160
and has all the trappings a
visiting tourist could want.
185
00:08:09,160 --> 00:08:10,880
There's no shortage of places to dine,
186
00:08:10,880 --> 00:08:12,760
or find a night's accommodation.
187
00:08:12,760 --> 00:08:14,880
The wide streets and port area are flanked
188
00:08:14,880 --> 00:08:17,270
with a mix of contemporary
and Venetian architecture.
189
00:08:17,270 --> 00:08:19,410
It's colourful, clean, friendly,
190
00:08:19,410 --> 00:08:21,740
and above all else, welcoming.
191
00:08:21,740 --> 00:08:23,120
For the crew of Mia Zoi,
192
00:08:23,120 --> 00:08:25,540
the day started on a rather unusual note.
193
00:08:25,540 --> 00:08:26,477
Excuse the pun.
194
00:08:26,477 --> 00:08:30,060
The sounds of guitars, singing,
and mandolin filled the air,
195
00:08:30,060 --> 00:08:31,670
echoing around the waterfront.
196
00:08:31,670 --> 00:08:32,850
According to tradition,
197
00:08:32,850 --> 00:08:35,510
serenades in Kefalonia
are sung by young lovers,
198
00:08:35,510 --> 00:08:37,610
beneath the window of their sweetheart.
199
00:08:37,610 --> 00:08:40,870
The lyric can be quite romantic,
and even erotic in nature.
200
00:08:40,870 --> 00:08:43,227
For example, the chorus
in this little ditty goes,
201
00:08:43,227 --> 00:08:45,247
"Tonight I don't want you to sleep,
202
00:08:45,247 --> 00:08:47,130
"I'd rather you collapse."
203
00:08:47,130 --> 00:08:49,140
It's a good thing the
girls don't speak Greek,
204
00:08:49,140 --> 00:08:52,050
otherwise their reactions might
not have been so pleasant.
205
00:08:52,050 --> 00:08:54,147
Mind you, what were these guys thinking?
206
00:08:54,147 --> 00:08:57,780
(men singing in foreign language)
207
00:08:57,780 --> 00:09:00,290
- This is a great example
of the place's charm.
208
00:09:00,290 --> 00:09:01,610
There's a certain innocence
209
00:09:01,610 --> 00:09:03,453
about living in a small island community,
210
00:09:03,453 --> 00:09:06,110
that you just don't find anywhere else.
211
00:09:06,110 --> 00:09:08,020
Plus there's a lot more of
the traditional way of life
212
00:09:08,020 --> 00:09:09,620
that gets lost in the big smoke.
213
00:09:11,940 --> 00:09:13,330
While the girls were being serenaded,
214
00:09:13,330 --> 00:09:15,470
I continued to explore the island.
215
00:09:15,470 --> 00:09:17,870
Not far from Sami is Antisamos Beach,
216
00:09:17,870 --> 00:09:19,190
where some of the scenes from the film,
217
00:09:19,190 --> 00:09:21,290
Captain Correllis Mandolin, were filmed.
218
00:09:21,290 --> 00:09:22,640
It's a beautiful little spot
219
00:09:22,640 --> 00:09:24,740
that's always popular with tourists.
220
00:09:24,740 --> 00:09:27,440
The pebbled beach makes for
an ideal place to relax,
221
00:09:27,440 --> 00:09:29,763
read a book, or take
the family for a picnic.
222
00:09:31,450 --> 00:09:33,540
This really is a beautiful island
223
00:09:33,540 --> 00:09:35,400
and thanks to being slightly
off the beaten track
224
00:09:35,400 --> 00:09:36,960
for most visitors to Greece,
225
00:09:36,960 --> 00:09:40,200
there are plenty of peaceful
spots to get away from crowds.
226
00:09:40,200 --> 00:09:42,430
There's also quite contrasting scenes,
227
00:09:42,430 --> 00:09:45,080
from the limestone cliffs on
the coast and white beaches,
228
00:09:45,080 --> 00:09:48,130
to the forested mountains
and olive plantations,
229
00:09:48,130 --> 00:09:50,380
the colours of Kefalonia are stunning.
230
00:09:50,380 --> 00:09:51,810
My plan for the day was to catch up
231
00:09:51,810 --> 00:09:53,560
with a good friend from Australia.
232
00:09:53,560 --> 00:09:56,040
Throughout my life, I've
had a number of mentors.
233
00:09:56,040 --> 00:09:57,860
One of the unexpected ones is Peter,
234
00:09:57,860 --> 00:10:00,030
who owns a local fish and chips shop.
235
00:10:00,030 --> 00:10:02,020
He came to Australia with nothing,
236
00:10:02,020 --> 00:10:04,830
built a number of businesses,
and raised a family.
237
00:10:04,830 --> 00:10:06,980
Nowadays, he spends six months of the year
238
00:10:06,980 --> 00:10:08,960
on his home island of Kefalonia,
239
00:10:08,960 --> 00:10:11,030
and the rest of his time back in Sydney.
240
00:10:11,030 --> 00:10:13,810
He's always talking about how
much he loves his small farm
241
00:10:13,810 --> 00:10:16,640
and horses, not to mention
how good his honey is.
242
00:10:16,640 --> 00:10:19,210
So if I came to Kefalonia
without dropping by,
243
00:10:19,210 --> 00:10:20,540
I'd be in big trouble.
244
00:10:20,540 --> 00:10:23,020
She's a beautiful horse, Kopella.
245
00:10:23,020 --> 00:10:24,120
She's beautiful, mate.
246
00:10:24,120 --> 00:10:27,340
(speaking foreign language)
247
00:10:27,340 --> 00:10:28,330
- Pete, I want to get some of that honey,
248
00:10:28,330 --> 00:10:29,600
let's go get some honey.
249
00:10:29,600 --> 00:10:30,960
I want to get into your honey.
250
00:10:30,960 --> 00:10:31,793
- [Pete] Yeah.
251
00:10:31,793 --> 00:10:32,750
- [Peter] Let's go.
252
00:10:32,750 --> 00:10:33,600
- [Pete] Bye-bye.
253
00:10:33,600 --> 00:10:35,142
- See you, Kopella!
254
00:10:35,142 --> 00:10:36,810
That's it, that's it, perfect.
255
00:10:36,810 --> 00:10:38,380
Now, Pete, what am I gonna do about pants?
256
00:10:38,380 --> 00:10:40,360
What do I do about pants?
257
00:10:40,360 --> 00:10:41,977
Any pants, long pants?
258
00:10:41,977 --> 00:10:43,450
- No.
- No long pants?
259
00:10:43,450 --> 00:10:44,283
- No.
260
00:10:44,283 --> 00:10:46,110
- Well, what am I gonna do?
261
00:10:46,110 --> 00:10:46,943
Where's your suit?
262
00:10:46,943 --> 00:10:48,592
- No, I just go like this.
263
00:10:48,592 --> 00:10:49,810
No.
- Are you crazy?
264
00:10:49,810 --> 00:10:51,211
- No, it's okay.
265
00:10:51,211 --> 00:10:52,651
- What do you mean?
266
00:10:52,651 --> 00:10:54,920
What are you talking about?
267
00:10:54,920 --> 00:10:55,916
What am I gonna do with those right there?
268
00:10:55,916 --> 00:10:59,690
(Pete speaking indistinctly)
269
00:10:59,690 --> 00:11:01,260
- On the face?
- Yeah.
270
00:11:01,260 --> 00:11:02,420
- On the fingers and the face.
271
00:11:02,420 --> 00:11:04,370
But you're just gonna go in with a hat?
272
00:11:08,200 --> 00:11:11,180
I've already been stung
by a bee today once.
273
00:11:11,180 --> 00:11:12,013
You know what I don't understand?
274
00:11:12,013 --> 00:11:14,090
You've got all this on there
and there's nothing down there.
275
00:11:14,090 --> 00:11:16,270
- Yeah, put it down the back.
276
00:11:16,270 --> 00:11:17,449
- Put it on the back, yeah.
277
00:11:17,449 --> 00:11:19,607
What's the difference gonna make?
278
00:11:19,607 --> 00:11:21,857
What's this gonna, I can't.
279
00:11:22,853 --> 00:11:25,250
Now, you watch my legs, okay?
280
00:11:25,250 --> 00:11:28,750
If any bees go on my legs and I get stung,
281
00:11:28,750 --> 00:11:29,700
I'm gonna grab you.
282
00:11:37,990 --> 00:11:39,970
We want to see the queen.
283
00:11:39,970 --> 00:11:41,360
We love the queen.
284
00:11:41,360 --> 00:11:43,520
Where's the queen?
285
00:11:43,520 --> 00:11:44,701
What is he doing now, Pete?
286
00:11:44,701 --> 00:11:46,038
- He gives help to the food.
287
00:11:46,038 --> 00:11:47,183
- Oh right, this is--
288
00:11:47,183 --> 00:11:49,283
- Yeah, because the weather is bad.
289
00:11:49,283 --> 00:11:52,200
- So he's giving them help,
because it's a bad year,
290
00:11:52,200 --> 00:11:53,320
it's hot.
- Yeah, yeah.
291
00:11:53,320 --> 00:11:54,843
- But in a good year, you get 20 kilos
292
00:11:54,843 --> 00:11:56,161
out of one of those?
- Yeah, 20 kilos.
293
00:11:56,161 --> 00:11:57,257
- Fantastic.
294
00:11:57,257 --> 00:11:59,840
(bright music)
295
00:12:02,170 --> 00:12:03,310
We're gonna see a beautiful queen
296
00:12:03,310 --> 00:12:05,020
apparently, they're saying.
297
00:12:05,020 --> 00:12:06,720
- The young queen.
- The young queen.
298
00:12:06,720 --> 00:12:09,011
Well, we don't mind old queens, either.
299
00:12:09,011 --> 00:12:10,990
We don't mind if it's
an old or a young queen.
300
00:12:10,990 --> 00:12:13,010
Mr. Cameraman, you almost got...
301
00:12:13,010 --> 00:12:16,313
Mr. Cameraman has bees all over him.
302
00:12:22,270 --> 00:12:23,680
She's got three or four bees around her,
303
00:12:23,680 --> 00:12:25,170
helping her out, protecting her.
304
00:12:25,170 --> 00:12:26,003
Pete, why do you do this?
305
00:12:26,003 --> 00:12:27,470
Why do you have the bees?
306
00:12:27,470 --> 00:12:28,440
Why do you do it?
307
00:12:28,440 --> 00:12:30,780
You've got a shop, you
could buy the honey.
308
00:12:30,780 --> 00:12:32,319
You got plenty of money, why do you do it?
309
00:12:32,319 --> 00:12:34,060
- [Pete] I don't have plenty of money.
310
00:12:34,060 --> 00:12:35,100
I want a hobby.
311
00:12:35,100 --> 00:12:36,640
- [Peter] Oh, this is your hobby.
312
00:12:36,640 --> 00:12:38,040
And you're doing something productive.
313
00:12:38,040 --> 00:12:39,908
- Yeah, something productive, yes.
314
00:12:39,908 --> 00:12:41,527
I get to give presents to friends.
315
00:12:41,527 --> 00:12:43,610
- Oh, mate, that's fantastic.
316
00:12:43,610 --> 00:12:44,443
- When you are welcome in Australia,
317
00:12:44,443 --> 00:12:47,450
I bring you honey and a bottle of wine.
318
00:12:47,450 --> 00:12:50,333
- I've had your honey, I've
had your honey, it's fantastic.
319
00:12:50,333 --> 00:12:51,600
- I forget that I had bring you some.
320
00:12:51,600 --> 00:12:52,653
- And I've had your olive
oil from your olives.
321
00:12:52,653 --> 00:12:54,043
- Olive oil, yeah.
322
00:12:55,140 --> 00:12:57,880
- If I look a little
nervous, it's because I was.
323
00:12:57,880 --> 00:12:59,510
Recently I was stung by a bee
324
00:12:59,510 --> 00:13:00,913
and since then I've had a phobia of them.
325
00:13:00,913 --> 00:13:03,980
They're small, but they
pack a hell of a punch.
326
00:13:03,980 --> 00:13:05,740
Pete, on the other hand, is fearless.
327
00:13:05,740 --> 00:13:08,100
He's been tending to his
hives for many years,
328
00:13:08,100 --> 00:13:09,820
and despite the occasional sting,
329
00:13:09,820 --> 00:13:11,800
doesn't flinch at being covered in them.
330
00:13:11,800 --> 00:13:14,850
Just about every island in
Greece produces its own honey.
331
00:13:14,850 --> 00:13:16,400
Each has a distinct flavour,
332
00:13:16,400 --> 00:13:18,130
created by the plants of the area.
333
00:13:18,130 --> 00:13:20,080
Naturally, Pete tells
me that the best honey
334
00:13:20,080 --> 00:13:23,170
comes from Kefalonia, and
probably from his hives.
335
00:13:23,170 --> 00:13:25,360
Pete is a great example
of the type of migrants
336
00:13:25,360 --> 00:13:28,300
that have helped make
countries like Canada, the USA,
337
00:13:28,300 --> 00:13:30,690
England, and Australia such prosperous,
338
00:13:30,690 --> 00:13:32,610
multi-cultural nations.
339
00:13:32,610 --> 00:13:35,180
He moved from his homeland
in search of a better life,
340
00:13:35,180 --> 00:13:36,630
and when he was presented
with an opportunity
341
00:13:36,630 --> 00:13:38,080
to make something of himself,
342
00:13:38,080 --> 00:13:41,000
he took it firmly in both
hands, and never let go.
343
00:13:41,000 --> 00:13:43,290
Today, like others I've met in my travels,
344
00:13:43,290 --> 00:13:45,060
Pete has answered an inner calling
345
00:13:45,060 --> 00:13:47,720
that has drawn him back to his birthplace.
346
00:13:47,720 --> 00:13:50,040
At the heart of his hometown of Fragiata,
347
00:13:50,040 --> 00:13:52,300
is a tavern that he couldn't
wait to drag me into.
348
00:13:52,300 --> 00:13:54,880
To be honest, I, too, was
pretty keen to go there.
349
00:13:54,880 --> 00:13:55,793
It's legendary on the island.
350
00:13:55,793 --> 00:13:58,460
There's no menu, because
the owner just tells you
351
00:13:58,460 --> 00:14:00,300
what he has available on the night.
352
00:14:00,300 --> 00:14:02,983
What's more, you order the
lamb chops by the kilo.
353
00:14:04,280 --> 00:14:06,500
A month from now, Pete is turning 80.
354
00:14:06,500 --> 00:14:09,160
Unfortunately, I won't be
there for the celebrations,
355
00:14:09,160 --> 00:14:10,610
but I like to think that tonight,
356
00:14:10,610 --> 00:14:12,660
dining with him in his local tavern,
357
00:14:12,660 --> 00:14:14,307
was just as special a moment.
358
00:14:18,145 --> 00:14:20,728
(ethnic music)
359
00:14:33,170 --> 00:14:34,670
Part of my journey
through the Greek Islands
360
00:14:34,670 --> 00:14:37,770
involves experiencing all
the different ways of life.
361
00:14:37,770 --> 00:14:39,880
From bee keeping and growing olives,
362
00:14:39,880 --> 00:14:42,230
to being an archaeologist,
and in this case,
363
00:14:42,230 --> 00:14:44,340
the daily grind of the fisherman.
364
00:14:44,340 --> 00:14:46,590
The sea has long been the
provider of sustenance
365
00:14:46,590 --> 00:14:49,320
for much of the country,
although increasingly,
366
00:14:49,320 --> 00:14:50,890
the catch has been poor.
367
00:14:50,890 --> 00:14:52,730
Who knows how much longer this profession
368
00:14:52,730 --> 00:14:54,120
will be sustainable?
369
00:14:54,120 --> 00:14:56,200
To shed some light on
the life of a fisherman,
370
00:14:56,200 --> 00:14:58,490
I rose at an ungodly hour to meet Michali,
371
00:14:58,490 --> 00:14:59,640
for a day on the water.
372
00:15:04,469 --> 00:15:08,370
You know, fishing is the
backbone of Greek Island life.
373
00:15:08,370 --> 00:15:11,880
And we're here in it, amongst it,
374
00:15:11,880 --> 00:15:13,760
with a typical Greek fishing boat.
375
00:15:13,760 --> 00:15:16,910
It's a decent-sized job, which
is good because the waves
376
00:15:16,910 --> 00:15:18,210
and the weather don't look so good today,
377
00:15:18,210 --> 00:15:21,393
so there's a good chance I'll
be green when you see me next.
378
00:15:27,410 --> 00:15:29,530
Michali was born and raised in Kefalonia,
379
00:15:29,530 --> 00:15:31,330
but did a stint in Melbourne, Australia
380
00:15:31,330 --> 00:15:33,370
before realising that
he needed to head home,
381
00:15:33,370 --> 00:15:35,580
and live his life doing
what he loved most.
382
00:15:35,580 --> 00:15:37,830
This meant living and working by the sea,
383
00:15:37,830 --> 00:15:40,010
regardless of the challenges it presented.
384
00:15:40,010 --> 00:15:43,160
His experience as a fisherman
is echoed across Greece.
385
00:15:43,160 --> 00:15:45,410
The romantic image of life at sea
386
00:15:45,410 --> 00:15:46,780
that we've come to believe,
387
00:15:46,780 --> 00:15:48,840
is quite far from the harsh reality
388
00:15:48,840 --> 00:15:51,230
experienced in this day and age.
389
00:15:51,230 --> 00:15:55,563
(Michali speaking foreign language)
390
00:15:56,530 --> 00:16:00,233
- Over the years, this side
of the whole Mediterranean,
391
00:16:01,320 --> 00:16:04,390
It's getting fished out
and people are focusing
392
00:16:04,390 --> 00:16:06,720
probably more on the fish
farms than anything else
393
00:16:06,720 --> 00:16:08,616
and there's a lot of fish farms.
394
00:16:08,616 --> 00:16:12,283
(speaking foreign language)
395
00:16:14,494 --> 00:16:17,300
- There's a lot of sea
bass in the fish farms.
396
00:16:17,300 --> 00:16:18,143
Sea brim.
397
00:16:19,389 --> 00:16:23,722
(Michali speaking foreign language)
398
00:16:27,804 --> 00:16:30,160
- The good thing about
what Michali is saying is,
399
00:16:30,160 --> 00:16:32,340
that some of the younger
fishermen like Michali
400
00:16:32,340 --> 00:16:35,260
realise how important the sea is.
401
00:16:35,260 --> 00:16:37,160
And they let it go for a while,
402
00:16:37,160 --> 00:16:39,460
and they don't fish it too hard,
403
00:16:39,460 --> 00:16:41,783
like they did in the late 90s.
404
00:16:42,722 --> 00:16:47,055
(Michali speaking foreign language)
405
00:16:52,930 --> 00:16:53,763
- That's awesome, Michali.
406
00:16:53,763 --> 00:16:55,313
That's awesome, I love this.
407
00:16:56,370 --> 00:17:00,460
He's saying that the
new breed of fishermen,
408
00:17:00,460 --> 00:17:03,363
here in the Mediterranean,
especially here in Greece,
409
00:17:03,363 --> 00:17:05,650
they realise how important the sea is,
410
00:17:05,650 --> 00:17:07,320
and they do give it a chance.
411
00:17:07,320 --> 00:17:10,502
They understand the sustainability issue
412
00:17:10,502 --> 00:17:13,550
that they need to have in keeping the fish
413
00:17:13,550 --> 00:17:14,700
here for generations.
414
00:17:14,700 --> 00:17:15,928
What fish there are left.
415
00:17:15,928 --> 00:17:19,360
(speaking foreign language)
416
00:17:19,360 --> 00:17:20,590
- It's sad, well, we're gonna find out
417
00:17:20,590 --> 00:17:21,903
pretty soon, aren't we?
418
00:17:21,903 --> 00:17:25,391
(boat motor rumbling)
419
00:17:25,391 --> 00:17:27,760
One of the plusses of a
pre-dawn start to the day
420
00:17:27,760 --> 00:17:29,280
is seeing the sunrise.
421
00:17:29,280 --> 00:17:30,803
It's always energising.
422
00:17:32,260 --> 00:17:34,110
I've actually never done this before.
423
00:17:35,050 --> 00:17:38,090
First time I've been fishing
424
00:17:38,090 --> 00:17:39,833
on a Greek fishing boat with nets.
425
00:17:41,927 --> 00:17:43,793
Let's cross our fingers
we're gonna get something.
426
00:17:49,070 --> 00:17:50,150
Here they come!
427
00:17:50,150 --> 00:17:52,500
A fisherman's life doesn't stop.
428
00:17:52,500 --> 00:17:53,883
Once the nets have been hauled in,
429
00:17:53,883 --> 00:17:58,010
they have to be untangled and
the boat refuelled and cleaned.
430
00:17:58,010 --> 00:18:00,740
Then, late in the evening,
they'll head out to sea again,
431
00:18:00,740 --> 00:18:02,980
resetting the nets so they
can once again come back
432
00:18:02,980 --> 00:18:05,880
at first light in the hope of
getting a profitable harvest.
433
00:18:05,880 --> 00:18:08,900
Here comes one that's a reasonable size.
434
00:18:08,900 --> 00:18:10,300
This one we will probably keep,
435
00:18:10,300 --> 00:18:12,570
the rest we'll be throwing
back into the water.
436
00:18:12,570 --> 00:18:14,233
This guy we'll keep.
437
00:18:14,233 --> 00:18:16,100
Here comes another little red job.
438
00:18:16,100 --> 00:18:17,710
I reckon we've thrown
this little red guy in
439
00:18:17,710 --> 00:18:19,990
three or four times and
he keeps coming back.
440
00:18:19,990 --> 00:18:21,240
Look at him, there he is again.
441
00:18:21,240 --> 00:18:23,487
If he comes back, I'm
taking him home, that's it.
442
00:18:23,487 --> 00:18:25,437
I'll put him in my fish tank at home.
443
00:18:25,437 --> 00:18:28,104
(soaring music)
444
00:18:29,140 --> 00:18:32,150
Michali came out here at 7:00
last night to lay these nets.
445
00:18:32,150 --> 00:18:34,830
We're here early in the
morning to pick up the nets.
446
00:18:34,830 --> 00:18:39,830
That is a full day's work
for a handful of fish.
447
00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:42,870
I reckon that wouldn't
even pay for his fuel,
448
00:18:42,870 --> 00:18:45,370
and for the help that he's
got on board, you know?
449
00:18:46,818 --> 00:18:50,143
I don't know how they make ends meet here.
450
00:18:53,210 --> 00:18:55,710
It quickly became apparent
that on many occasions,
451
00:18:55,710 --> 00:18:57,410
Michali can't turn a profit,
452
00:18:57,410 --> 00:19:00,060
so he's had to look at
other ways of make a living.
453
00:19:00,060 --> 00:19:02,260
Thankfully, as the fishery has declined,
454
00:19:02,260 --> 00:19:04,020
tourism has prospered.
455
00:19:04,020 --> 00:19:06,070
Embracing this change,
he's now turning his hand
456
00:19:06,070 --> 00:19:09,210
to being a tour operator,
taking visitors on fishing trips
457
00:19:09,210 --> 00:19:11,100
and then cooking the catch on the boat.
458
00:19:11,100 --> 00:19:12,450
It seems to be working,
459
00:19:12,450 --> 00:19:14,730
and knowing this gave
me a sense of relief.
460
00:19:14,730 --> 00:19:17,110
The future looks a little
rosier for these fishermen
461
00:19:17,110 --> 00:19:18,770
in fishless waters.
462
00:19:18,770 --> 00:19:19,867
That's it.
463
00:19:19,867 --> 00:19:21,070
The little red job's back again.
464
00:19:21,070 --> 00:19:23,593
I'm gonna call him Bluey.
465
00:19:24,850 --> 00:19:26,600
I'm gonna stick him in a bucket
466
00:19:26,600 --> 00:19:29,490
and take him back to Australia
with me into my little pond.
467
00:19:29,490 --> 00:19:30,405
There he is.
468
00:19:30,405 --> 00:19:31,610
There's Bluey!
469
00:19:31,610 --> 00:19:33,200
There's Bluey, Bluey's down there.
470
00:19:33,200 --> 00:19:34,814
Come on, Bluey, come here.
471
00:19:34,814 --> 00:19:38,481
(speaking foreign language)
472
00:19:41,753 --> 00:19:43,634
I'm gonna throw him back into the sea.
473
00:19:43,634 --> 00:19:45,703
There you go back in
there, mate, there you go.
474
00:19:46,730 --> 00:19:48,030
Gotta do that, man.
475
00:19:48,030 --> 00:19:49,280
You can't, little fish...
476
00:19:51,551 --> 00:19:52,384
Oh!
477
00:19:52,384 --> 00:19:53,960
I think here come a couple of lobbies!
478
00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:54,930
Lobsters!
479
00:19:54,930 --> 00:19:56,922
Here we go, there's one,
look at that beauty!
480
00:19:56,922 --> 00:19:58,700
Oh, there's another one, look at him!
481
00:19:58,700 --> 00:19:59,533
Hey!
482
00:20:00,690 --> 00:20:02,690
Now, that first one's probably undersized,
483
00:20:02,690 --> 00:20:04,410
where I come from anyway.
484
00:20:04,410 --> 00:20:06,150
Second one's fine, though.
485
00:20:09,470 --> 00:20:10,770
It was worth coming today.
486
00:20:13,340 --> 00:20:14,990
Maybe that will pay for the fuel.
487
00:20:18,360 --> 00:20:19,193
If we're lucky.
488
00:20:20,180 --> 00:20:22,600
It was an eye-opening and fun morning.
489
00:20:22,600 --> 00:20:25,010
Apart from meeting Bluey,
the little red fish,
490
00:20:25,010 --> 00:20:26,650
I had an authentic experience
491
00:20:26,650 --> 00:20:29,070
that has changed my view on a few things.
492
00:20:29,070 --> 00:20:30,230
Having met Michali,
493
00:20:30,230 --> 00:20:33,150
I've learned about how
intuitive some fishermen are,
494
00:20:33,150 --> 00:20:35,750
and that sustainability
really matters to them.
495
00:20:35,750 --> 00:20:37,590
I can only hope that he
can continue to adapt
496
00:20:37,590 --> 00:20:40,700
to the ever-changing world,
and I'm now sure that his foray
497
00:20:40,700 --> 00:20:43,300
into the tourism industry,
will be a prosperous one.
498
00:20:47,961 --> 00:20:50,544
(ethnic music)
499
00:21:02,500 --> 00:21:05,280
Driving through the mountain
roads on any Greek island,
500
00:21:05,280 --> 00:21:08,290
I suggest you don't speed,
and pay close attention.
501
00:21:08,290 --> 00:21:10,970
There are no traffic
lights, very few signs,
502
00:21:10,970 --> 00:21:13,110
and around every corner
you just might come across
503
00:21:13,110 --> 00:21:14,140
a herd of goats.
(bells clanking)
504
00:21:14,140 --> 00:21:17,680
Here, livestock gets right
of way, and for every person,
505
00:21:17,680 --> 00:21:19,250
it feels like there
are two of these horned
506
00:21:19,250 --> 00:21:21,950
and bearded locals, so
there's certainly no shortage
507
00:21:21,950 --> 00:21:22,854
of them roaming the island.
508
00:21:22,854 --> 00:21:27,021
(man whistling can calling goats)
509
00:21:36,611 --> 00:21:40,861
Is that awesome or what!
(laughing)
510
00:21:43,610 --> 00:21:45,940
This little three-year-old
kept giving me the evil-eye.
511
00:21:45,940 --> 00:21:48,050
I don't know what I did wrong,
512
00:21:48,050 --> 00:21:49,850
but I must have annoyed him somehow.
513
00:21:51,764 --> 00:21:55,431
(speaking foreign language)
514
00:21:56,979 --> 00:21:57,915
- Three years old, the kid is!
515
00:21:57,915 --> 00:21:59,071
(speaking foreign language)
516
00:21:59,071 --> 00:22:00,205
- All he eats is goat meat.
517
00:22:00,205 --> 00:22:01,600
Goat meat every day, goat meat.
518
00:22:01,600 --> 00:22:05,267
(speaking foreign language)
519
00:22:08,010 --> 00:22:10,630
- 55 years old, look
at that, look at this.
520
00:22:10,630 --> 00:22:11,859
Unbelievable, bravo.
521
00:22:11,859 --> 00:22:15,526
(speaking foreign language)
522
00:22:17,500 --> 00:22:19,865
- 700 goats he's herding, fantastic.
523
00:22:19,865 --> 00:22:23,660
(speaking foreign language)
524
00:22:23,660 --> 00:22:25,590
- He's gonna take them
up to the mountain now,
525
00:22:25,590 --> 00:22:26,936
and in the morning they are
just gonna come back down
526
00:22:26,936 --> 00:22:31,936
on their own.
(speaking foreign language)
527
00:22:41,390 --> 00:22:42,223
- Thank you.
528
00:22:42,223 --> 00:22:43,668
Thank you very much!
529
00:22:43,668 --> 00:22:45,190
(speaking foreign language)
530
00:22:45,190 --> 00:22:47,220
- Now, this might sound a little morbid,
531
00:22:47,220 --> 00:22:50,720
but after seeing so many goats
on the road, I was hungry.
532
00:22:50,720 --> 00:22:53,490
So, it was back to Mia Zoi,
to not only have some lunch,
533
00:22:53,490 --> 00:22:54,653
but watch the football.
534
00:22:55,690 --> 00:22:57,424
Kyriako, what are we gonna be doing today?
535
00:22:57,424 --> 00:23:01,091
(speaking foreign language)
536
00:23:04,492 --> 00:23:08,650
- So, today we are making
what is called Kreatopita,
537
00:23:08,650 --> 00:23:11,860
which is a meat pie, basically,
with some rice in it.
538
00:23:11,860 --> 00:23:15,730
That is the provincial dish of Kefalonia.
539
00:23:15,730 --> 00:23:17,060
Fantastic, I'm looking forward to it.
540
00:23:17,060 --> 00:23:19,750
Now I must apologise, I'm
in my speedos at the moment,
541
00:23:19,750 --> 00:23:22,300
my swimmers, because I
just got stung by a bee.
542
00:23:22,300 --> 00:23:24,350
We're moving a bit because
the cameraman is laughing,
543
00:23:24,350 --> 00:23:25,560
and we've got a bit of a swell,
544
00:23:25,560 --> 00:23:28,255
so cameraman will crop it later.
545
00:23:28,255 --> 00:23:31,922
(speaking foreign language)
546
00:23:34,200 --> 00:23:36,720
- Amazing, so we actually
put three different meats in.
547
00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:40,323
We've got beef, we've got
pork, and we've got goat.
548
00:23:40,323 --> 00:23:43,990
(speaking foreign language)
549
00:23:47,160 --> 00:23:49,400
- Half a kilo of beef,
half a kilo of pork,
550
00:23:49,400 --> 00:23:51,200
and a kilo of goat.
551
00:23:51,200 --> 00:23:52,890
We've got spring onion, we've got garlic,
552
00:23:52,890 --> 00:23:54,930
we've got a cinnamon
clove, a bit of vinegar,
553
00:23:54,930 --> 00:23:57,470
we've got some white wine,
we've got some olive oil,
554
00:23:57,470 --> 00:23:59,220
and that's in the first session.
555
00:23:59,220 --> 00:24:01,925
And then after that we've
got some cheese, which is...
556
00:24:01,925 --> 00:24:02,758
(speaking foreign language)
557
00:24:02,758 --> 00:24:03,900
- Kefalotiri.
- Kefalotiri.
558
00:24:03,900 --> 00:24:05,850
We've got some rice, it's special rice.
559
00:24:05,850 --> 00:24:06,710
(speaking foreign language)
560
00:24:06,710 --> 00:24:08,110
- For soup, rice for soup.
561
00:24:08,110 --> 00:24:12,740
We've got some parsley, we
have salt, tomato paste,
562
00:24:12,740 --> 00:24:15,300
sugar, and mint.
563
00:24:15,300 --> 00:24:16,590
Fantastic, okay, let's start.
564
00:24:16,590 --> 00:24:17,820
Kyriako, what do we do first?
565
00:24:17,820 --> 00:24:19,936
So the beef is going
in first, oh wonderful.
566
00:24:19,936 --> 00:24:22,603
(food sizzling)
567
00:24:25,095 --> 00:24:27,500
(speaking foreign language)
568
00:24:27,500 --> 00:24:29,020
- It's just such a nice smell.
569
00:24:29,020 --> 00:24:30,530
it's an aroma you could
drink that olive oil.
570
00:24:30,530 --> 00:24:31,363
I drink that olive oil.
571
00:24:31,363 --> 00:24:33,893
My grandmother lived to
102 drinking olive oil.
572
00:24:35,960 --> 00:24:38,203
Awesome, awesome, awesome, awesome.
573
00:24:39,479 --> 00:24:40,810
(speaking foreign language)
574
00:24:40,810 --> 00:24:42,100
- Now, the goat's a little bit gaimier
575
00:24:42,100 --> 00:24:44,267
but it's a beautiful meat to eat.
576
00:24:45,590 --> 00:24:47,150
My understanding is,
577
00:24:47,150 --> 00:24:51,513
goat is the most eaten meat in the world.
578
00:24:53,220 --> 00:24:54,980
Spring onion comes in now.
579
00:24:54,980 --> 00:24:55,830
Now, let me remind you.
580
00:24:55,830 --> 00:24:58,310
Beneath that white shirt,
I'm wearing bathers.
581
00:24:58,310 --> 00:25:01,100
I'm in Greece, and that's
the standard holiday uniform.
582
00:25:01,100 --> 00:25:03,390
We want it to be soft, we
want the meat to be soft,
583
00:25:03,390 --> 00:25:05,740
because it's gonna be in a pie.
584
00:25:05,740 --> 00:25:08,010
With all the vegetables and
meat having been lightly cooked
585
00:25:08,010 --> 00:25:11,990
on a low heat, we add 200 mils
of dry white wine, garlic,
586
00:25:11,990 --> 00:25:14,140
vinegar, the cinnamon stick, and water.
587
00:25:14,140 --> 00:25:15,670
It's then left to simmer for an hour,
588
00:25:15,670 --> 00:25:17,880
before adding the rice.
589
00:25:17,880 --> 00:25:21,500
Next goes in the mint, parsley,
tomato paste, and sugar.
590
00:25:21,500 --> 00:25:22,933
Okay, and we stir this up.
591
00:25:23,930 --> 00:25:28,380
And we can see the colour
of this beautiful meat
592
00:25:28,380 --> 00:25:30,180
packing that's gonna go in this pie.
593
00:25:31,307 --> 00:25:33,036
Oh yeah.
594
00:25:33,036 --> 00:25:35,286
(laughing)
595
00:25:36,140 --> 00:25:37,260
I'm gonna be eating this soon.
596
00:25:37,260 --> 00:25:38,580
While the meat is reducing,
597
00:25:38,580 --> 00:25:40,190
it's time to prepare the filo pastry.
598
00:25:40,190 --> 00:25:43,823
It just happens to be
the same size as the tin.
599
00:25:45,100 --> 00:25:47,570
I get hungry watching
everything come together,
600
00:25:47,570 --> 00:25:49,960
and making a pie is a long process.
601
00:25:49,960 --> 00:25:50,903
I need to check that it's okay.
602
00:25:50,903 --> 00:25:54,293
I'm a bit concerned that it
might not be right, you know?
603
00:25:58,932 --> 00:26:02,599
(speaking foreign language)
604
00:26:14,910 --> 00:26:17,160
(laughing)
605
00:26:19,168 --> 00:26:20,030
- Oh yeah!
606
00:26:20,030 --> 00:26:23,514
I tell you what, that is
such a beautiful texture.
607
00:26:23,514 --> 00:26:24,347
(speaking foreign language)
608
00:26:24,347 --> 00:26:27,670
- And the aroma, Kyriako
has cooked this many times
609
00:26:27,670 --> 00:26:28,590
and he still loves the aroma.
610
00:26:28,590 --> 00:26:30,460
Look at that, look at that, look at that!
611
00:26:30,460 --> 00:26:31,963
That is absolutely awesome.
612
00:26:38,010 --> 00:26:39,560
I should take him home with me.
613
00:26:43,870 --> 00:26:44,703
Here it goes.
614
00:26:46,990 --> 00:26:51,990
And we have Kreatopita
being made as we speak.
615
00:26:52,050 --> 00:26:54,150
He's obviously speeding
this up because he realises
616
00:26:54,150 --> 00:26:56,480
that I'm very anxious about going in there
617
00:26:56,480 --> 00:26:58,550
and watching the football.
618
00:26:58,550 --> 00:26:59,860
You can see him smiling at the moment.
619
00:26:59,860 --> 00:27:01,090
- Yes.
620
00:27:01,090 --> 00:27:02,628
- Are you gonna do
anything, write anything?
621
00:27:02,628 --> 00:27:04,320
(speaking foreign language)
622
00:27:04,320 --> 00:27:05,620
- Okay.
623
00:27:05,620 --> 00:27:07,713
So he's gonna do some,
in fact, I'm gonna go
624
00:27:07,713 --> 00:27:09,080
because the football has started.
625
00:27:09,080 --> 00:27:09,950
I'll leave you with it, okay?
626
00:27:09,950 --> 00:27:10,783
Sorry.
627
00:27:13,030 --> 00:27:14,580
I should also apologise to anyone
628
00:27:14,580 --> 00:27:16,790
that finds my outfit a little revealing.
629
00:27:16,790 --> 00:27:19,678
It's not exactly the
normal kitchen attire.
630
00:27:19,678 --> 00:27:20,511
Oh!
631
00:27:22,060 --> 00:27:22,990
That looks so good.
632
00:27:22,990 --> 00:27:24,720
(speaking foreign language)
633
00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:25,610
- Everything's happening now.
634
00:27:25,610 --> 00:27:28,060
It's half time with the
football, we're losing.
635
00:27:28,060 --> 00:27:30,560
Cameraman's smiling at
me because of my bite.
636
00:27:30,560 --> 00:27:33,450
We've got waves, I'm
hangry 'cause I'm starved.
637
00:27:33,450 --> 00:27:34,828
It's all happening right now.
638
00:27:34,828 --> 00:27:36,319
(speaking foreign language)
639
00:27:36,319 --> 00:27:38,825
(bright music)
640
00:27:38,825 --> 00:27:40,760
That's the only thing
that's making me happy.
641
00:27:40,760 --> 00:27:43,653
Look at that, that is absolutely awesome.
642
00:27:44,600 --> 00:27:47,240
I'm getting two pieces,
thank you very much.
643
00:27:47,240 --> 00:27:49,653
Now let's try this without getting burnt.
644
00:27:50,510 --> 00:27:51,480
Let's have a go.
645
00:27:51,480 --> 00:27:53,583
Let's see how good you are, Kyriako,
646
00:27:53,583 --> 00:27:56,537
because I already know how good you are.
647
00:27:58,633 --> 00:28:00,133
Let's have a look.
648
00:28:01,005 --> 00:28:02,088
Have a taste.
649
00:28:10,690 --> 00:28:15,163
I've got to say, that is
my first Kreatopita ever.
650
00:28:16,220 --> 00:28:17,093
I'm about to cry.
651
00:28:21,220 --> 00:28:23,610
Next year, I might turn
this into a cooking show.
652
00:28:23,610 --> 00:28:25,520
I loved watching it all come together,
653
00:28:25,520 --> 00:28:28,340
but I enjoyed eating it a lot more.
654
00:28:28,340 --> 00:28:31,050
I'm certainly not a foodie,
but one of the great things
655
00:28:31,050 --> 00:28:34,230
about travelling to new places
is experiencing the cuisine.
656
00:28:34,230 --> 00:28:36,440
Whether it's a simple local delicacy
657
00:28:36,440 --> 00:28:37,820
or something more elaborate,
658
00:28:37,820 --> 00:28:41,500
the flavours of the destination
are part of what defines it.
659
00:28:41,500 --> 00:28:43,810
Mind you, I'm lucky to
have such a great chef
660
00:28:43,810 --> 00:28:45,553
to whip up these delicious meals.
661
00:28:50,141 --> 00:28:52,724
(ethnic music)
662
00:29:01,224 --> 00:29:03,497
(bright music)
663
00:29:03,497 --> 00:29:06,290
Kefalonia is the largest
of the Ionian Islands,
664
00:29:06,290 --> 00:29:09,730
and around its rugged coastline
are several port towns.
665
00:29:09,730 --> 00:29:11,470
Most are hidden in tiny bays,
666
00:29:11,470 --> 00:29:14,000
where the hills offer
protection from stormy weather.
667
00:29:14,000 --> 00:29:17,160
Each has its own story to
tell, such as my next stop,
668
00:29:17,160 --> 00:29:20,090
Fiskardo, which is on the
northeastern tip of the island.
669
00:29:20,090 --> 00:29:21,960
It's actually the only part of Kefalonia
670
00:29:21,960 --> 00:29:24,480
that wasn't affected
by the 1953 earthquake,
671
00:29:24,480 --> 00:29:26,670
that devastated the rest of the island.
672
00:29:26,670 --> 00:29:29,280
This means it has a lot of the
original period architecture,
673
00:29:29,280 --> 00:29:31,230
that much of Kefalonia has lost.
674
00:29:31,230 --> 00:29:33,040
With that comes a certain charm,
675
00:29:33,040 --> 00:29:34,940
which sets the town apart from others.
676
00:29:40,880 --> 00:29:43,600
Wherever you go in Greece,
there's a story to be told,
677
00:29:43,600 --> 00:29:45,310
and you can always rely
on a local tavern owner
678
00:29:45,310 --> 00:29:46,920
to be in the know.
679
00:29:46,920 --> 00:29:49,500
In this instance, I went to
the oldest such establishment
680
00:29:49,500 --> 00:29:51,610
in Fiskardo, and met with Maki.
681
00:29:51,610 --> 00:29:53,540
He's been here for the past 20 years,
682
00:29:53,540 --> 00:29:56,340
and it sounds like he'll be
here for at least another 20.
683
00:29:56,340 --> 00:29:59,480
So tell me, you've lived all
your life here in Fiskardo?
684
00:29:59,480 --> 00:30:01,190
- To be honest I was born here.
685
00:30:01,190 --> 00:30:03,770
I grew up in Athens but
I'm here the last 20 years.
686
00:30:03,770 --> 00:30:05,325
- 20 years.
- It was my dream.
687
00:30:05,325 --> 00:30:06,320
I said to my wife--
688
00:30:06,320 --> 00:30:07,850
- So, you're living
the dream, as they say?
689
00:30:07,850 --> 00:30:09,340
- I'm living my dream now, with my family.
690
00:30:09,340 --> 00:30:11,310
I have two boys, a
wife, everything's okay.
691
00:30:11,310 --> 00:30:12,251
Everything's in order.
692
00:30:12,251 --> 00:30:13,480
This was my dream.
693
00:30:13,480 --> 00:30:14,450
- [Peter] You're happy
with what you've got.
694
00:30:14,450 --> 00:30:16,080
- I'm happy, it's enough.
695
00:30:16,080 --> 00:30:16,970
You don't need a lot of things,
696
00:30:16,970 --> 00:30:20,157
you don't have a lot of
temptations, if I can say this.
697
00:30:20,157 --> 00:30:21,000
Life is simple.
698
00:30:21,000 --> 00:30:22,070
We work in the summer.
699
00:30:22,070 --> 00:30:24,780
In the winter we gather in
the houses with other people,
700
00:30:24,780 --> 00:30:29,470
you know, we have dinner, nice
wine, fireplace, that's it.
701
00:30:29,470 --> 00:30:30,430
- [Peter] That's awesome, mate.
702
00:30:30,430 --> 00:30:31,483
- We don't need anything else, believe me.
703
00:30:31,483 --> 00:30:32,970
- [Peter] Fantastic, it's good.
704
00:30:32,970 --> 00:30:33,803
- Maybe we don't have a theatre,
705
00:30:33,803 --> 00:30:35,220
we don't have a cinema, doesn't matter.
706
00:30:35,220 --> 00:30:38,310
- [Peter] I see all these
sailing boats out here,
707
00:30:38,310 --> 00:30:40,610
so in summer it is full of sailing boats?
708
00:30:40,610 --> 00:30:43,220
- [Maki] I can say
packed, completely full.
709
00:30:43,220 --> 00:30:46,000
- And I see people are living,
in front of your restaurant.
710
00:30:46,000 --> 00:30:47,290
Living right there.
- Exactly, exactly, exactly.
711
00:30:47,290 --> 00:30:48,200
In front of the restaurant.
712
00:30:48,200 --> 00:30:49,930
Every day new ones.
713
00:30:49,930 --> 00:30:51,390
- [Peter] You must see some weird things.
714
00:30:51,390 --> 00:30:53,250
Do you see anything--
715
00:30:53,250 --> 00:30:57,660
- We have saw naked people
having showers outside the boat,
716
00:30:57,660 --> 00:31:00,150
people fighting, people completely drunk,
717
00:31:00,150 --> 00:31:02,830
and sinking, and jumping into the water.
718
00:31:02,830 --> 00:31:05,040
- You see everything here?
- Everything.
719
00:31:05,040 --> 00:31:06,950
A lot of funny things,
a lot of strange things.
720
00:31:06,950 --> 00:31:08,820
- [Peter] What's the most
special thing you've seen here?
721
00:31:08,820 --> 00:31:10,120
- One evening we were sitting here,
722
00:31:10,120 --> 00:31:13,337
a lady asked to go to the
toilet and she went inside,
723
00:31:13,337 --> 00:31:15,520
and when she came out, it was Demi Moore
724
00:31:15,520 --> 00:31:18,720
and I look at her, I say,
excuse me, you are Demi Moore?
725
00:31:18,720 --> 00:31:19,617
She said, yes.
726
00:31:19,617 --> 00:31:21,200
And I was surprised, I was shocked.
727
00:31:21,200 --> 00:31:24,519
She was eating here and nobody
noticed that she was here.
728
00:31:24,519 --> 00:31:25,780
- [Peter] Is that right?
729
00:31:25,780 --> 00:31:27,770
- For me, it was the
strangest thing that happened
730
00:31:27,770 --> 00:31:30,670
because she was here so long
time and nobody paid attention.
731
00:31:30,670 --> 00:31:31,503
- [Peter] Demi Moore here?
732
00:31:31,503 --> 00:31:32,336
- Demi Moore here, yeah.
733
00:31:32,336 --> 00:31:33,830
- Maki, I'm looking at your meze here--
734
00:31:33,830 --> 00:31:36,490
- You have to try it, this is
local cheese with soft cheese.
735
00:31:36,490 --> 00:31:37,323
- It's meze--
736
00:31:37,323 --> 00:31:38,620
- Meze, we call it.
737
00:31:38,620 --> 00:31:40,580
Local olives, tomato, peppers.
738
00:31:40,580 --> 00:31:42,690
- We gotta try it.
- And a very nice local wine.
739
00:31:42,690 --> 00:31:43,634
- [Peter] Of course, we gotta try it.
740
00:31:43,634 --> 00:31:44,810
We gotta try it with a bit of bread, too.
741
00:31:44,810 --> 00:31:46,370
- [Maki] Of course, it's nice.
742
00:31:46,370 --> 00:31:48,770
- [Peter] And on that
note, thank you very much.
743
00:31:50,772 --> 00:31:52,420
- And oil, local oil.
744
00:31:52,420 --> 00:31:54,671
You don't need anything else.
745
00:31:54,671 --> 00:31:58,290
(speaking foreign language)
(glasses clink)
746
00:31:58,290 --> 00:32:00,180
- A theme I've discovered in my travels
747
00:32:00,180 --> 00:32:02,800
is that those that leave, often come back.
748
00:32:02,800 --> 00:32:05,830
And a common reason, is
a desire for simplicity.
749
00:32:05,830 --> 00:32:08,750
Living a life free of fuss and hassle,
750
00:32:08,750 --> 00:32:11,270
not driven by consumerism or wealth,
751
00:32:11,270 --> 00:32:14,050
where good food, friends and family,
752
00:32:14,050 --> 00:32:16,100
and having plenty of free
time to spend with them,
753
00:32:16,100 --> 00:32:17,608
are what matters in life.
754
00:32:17,608 --> 00:32:20,191
(bright music)
755
00:32:21,310 --> 00:32:23,690
When I look at old ruins,
like the Byzantine lighthouse
756
00:32:23,690 --> 00:32:25,780
and Christian Basilica on Kefalonia,
757
00:32:25,780 --> 00:32:27,470
I get a feeling of wonder.
758
00:32:27,470 --> 00:32:29,010
I put myself in the shoes of those
759
00:32:29,010 --> 00:32:30,790
that had lived here centuries ago,
760
00:32:30,790 --> 00:32:33,710
when this part of the world
was isolated and remote.
761
00:32:33,710 --> 00:32:36,420
People would have walked
through the now crumbling ruins
762
00:32:36,420 --> 00:32:39,330
and been oblivious to the
wide world around them.
763
00:32:39,330 --> 00:32:41,160
Life was centred around religion
764
00:32:41,160 --> 00:32:42,840
and the community you lived in,
765
00:32:42,840 --> 00:32:45,920
and few travelled beyond a few
miles to neighbouring islands.
766
00:32:45,920 --> 00:32:48,280
It's a much smaller planet today.
767
00:32:48,280 --> 00:32:50,490
Something that has not been
lost over the centuries
768
00:32:50,490 --> 00:32:53,300
is an almost universal love of wine.
769
00:32:53,300 --> 00:32:54,810
Believe it or not, but one of the things
770
00:32:54,810 --> 00:32:56,470
that did leave this part of the world
771
00:32:56,470 --> 00:32:58,990
and travel to the four
corners was exactly that.
772
00:32:58,990 --> 00:33:01,100
And I have a personal connection to it.
773
00:33:01,100 --> 00:33:02,780
Growing up I worked in
my uncle's restaurant
774
00:33:02,780 --> 00:33:04,350
on weekends and holidays.
775
00:33:04,350 --> 00:33:07,320
A distinct memory of that time
is a hessian-wrapped bottle
776
00:33:07,320 --> 00:33:08,620
that bore the name Robola.
777
00:33:09,530 --> 00:33:11,220
I had no idea where it came from,
778
00:33:11,220 --> 00:33:12,910
but was told it was a white wine
779
00:33:12,910 --> 00:33:14,940
that was shipped all around the world.
780
00:33:14,940 --> 00:33:16,030
This was happening at a time
781
00:33:16,030 --> 00:33:19,340
when other Greek wines
were relatively unheard of.
782
00:33:19,340 --> 00:33:21,810
Nowadays, there are all
sorts of wine varieties
783
00:33:21,810 --> 00:33:24,980
leaving Greece's shores,
but this place in Fragiata
784
00:33:24,980 --> 00:33:27,690
has been doing it for over half a century.
785
00:33:27,690 --> 00:33:30,070
No doubt the production
process has changed a little,
786
00:33:30,070 --> 00:33:32,540
but they say the flavour
has only gotten better.
787
00:33:32,540 --> 00:33:34,820
Seeing how much activity
was going on in the factory
788
00:33:34,820 --> 00:33:36,660
gave me a sense that business is good,
789
00:33:36,660 --> 00:33:37,910
which in turn suggests
790
00:33:37,910 --> 00:33:39,810
that they're making something special.
791
00:33:52,580 --> 00:33:53,413
Big party!
792
00:33:55,610 --> 00:33:58,740
My memories of Robola
is from when I was 16
793
00:33:58,740 --> 00:33:59,920
at my uncle's restaurant.
794
00:33:59,920 --> 00:34:01,610
And I remember that wine
really, really well.
795
00:34:01,610 --> 00:34:03,580
But tell me a little bit about Robola
796
00:34:03,580 --> 00:34:05,813
and why it's so famous.
797
00:34:05,813 --> 00:34:08,220
- So what we know about Robola so far
798
00:34:08,220 --> 00:34:10,040
is that it's really ancient, first of all.
799
00:34:10,040 --> 00:34:12,370
The first mention that
we have of Robola wine
800
00:34:13,220 --> 00:34:15,960
is from 1500 BC.
801
00:34:15,960 --> 00:34:17,725
- 3,500 years ago?
802
00:34:17,725 --> 00:34:18,558
- Yeah.
803
00:34:18,558 --> 00:34:20,790
It's really an ancient
grape to the island.
804
00:34:20,790 --> 00:34:23,240
It is, it's a local variety, of course,
805
00:34:23,240 --> 00:34:25,540
which always gives white and dry wine.
806
00:34:25,540 --> 00:34:28,440
And also we don't know
specifically what does it mean.
807
00:34:28,440 --> 00:34:31,814
Robola, we just know that it
comes from an Italian word.
808
00:34:31,814 --> 00:34:35,190
But we still don't know
about how it came to us.
809
00:34:35,190 --> 00:34:36,378
- Oh, it's beautiful.
810
00:34:36,378 --> 00:34:37,378
- Thank you.
811
00:34:39,913 --> 00:34:42,200
- And it tastes better than the aroma.
812
00:34:42,200 --> 00:34:43,430
That's awesome.
813
00:34:43,430 --> 00:34:45,030
I shouldn't be swallowing it,
I should be spitting it out,
814
00:34:45,030 --> 00:34:46,950
but anyway, that's fantastic.
815
00:34:46,950 --> 00:34:49,100
That tastes exactly like
it tasted back then.
816
00:34:49,100 --> 00:34:50,480
- [Dionisis] But you can
age it, you can keep it in--
817
00:34:50,480 --> 00:34:52,090
- Although they're known
for their dry white,
818
00:34:52,090 --> 00:34:53,440
there are a number of different varietals
819
00:34:53,440 --> 00:34:56,380
that Robola produce, all
of which hold their own.
820
00:34:56,380 --> 00:34:59,360
Amongst them is an organic
wine that taste quite good.
821
00:34:59,360 --> 00:35:02,340
Now, although my wife Helen
doesn't drink alcohol,
822
00:35:02,340 --> 00:35:04,610
she is a buyer of everything organic.
823
00:35:04,610 --> 00:35:07,736
So who knows, she just might try this one.
824
00:35:07,736 --> 00:35:09,368
(upbeat music)
825
00:35:09,368 --> 00:35:13,075
You know what, they'e all
good, but this is my favourite.
826
00:35:13,075 --> 00:35:13,921
This is my favourite.
827
00:35:13,921 --> 00:35:14,754
- Brings you back memories.
828
00:35:14,754 --> 00:35:15,873
- Brings back memories, you know?
829
00:35:15,873 --> 00:35:20,310
There's more to drinking
wine than just the taste.
830
00:35:20,310 --> 00:35:23,220
There's obviously your
memories that evolve,
831
00:35:23,220 --> 00:35:26,160
the times you were there, what
you used to eat, you know?
832
00:35:26,160 --> 00:35:29,260
And I remember the food
that I used to cook,
833
00:35:29,260 --> 00:35:31,293
my uncle used to cook, it's great.
834
00:35:32,180 --> 00:35:34,330
This has brought back a lot
of memories for me, Dionisis,
835
00:35:34,330 --> 00:35:35,920
I really appreciate it.
836
00:35:35,920 --> 00:35:40,920
Now, maybe I should buy some
of this stuff for my family.
837
00:35:41,320 --> 00:35:42,538
Yeah, I've gotta look
after my family first.
838
00:35:42,538 --> 00:35:44,777
- If they do like organic
products, you should.
839
00:35:44,777 --> 00:35:45,715
- Yeah, that's right.
840
00:35:45,715 --> 00:35:47,620
I don't think I have any choice.
841
00:35:47,620 --> 00:35:48,580
If I bring these home,
842
00:35:48,580 --> 00:35:49,750
this is the only one my wife will drink,
843
00:35:49,750 --> 00:35:51,300
if she drinks something anyway.
844
00:35:51,300 --> 00:35:52,950
So, let's buy some, hey?
- Okay.
845
00:35:54,470 --> 00:35:56,467
So, you'd like one bottle
of the organic one?
846
00:35:56,467 --> 00:35:58,740
- Yes, I might take a case.
847
00:35:58,740 --> 00:36:00,073
One case.
- Okay.
848
00:36:00,910 --> 00:36:03,280
- I'm blown away that
the tiny town of Fragiata
849
00:36:03,280 --> 00:36:05,230
has such a successful winery,
850
00:36:05,230 --> 00:36:08,400
producing huge volumes of a drop so tasty,
851
00:36:08,400 --> 00:36:10,390
it's consumed the world over.
852
00:36:10,390 --> 00:36:12,620
It's a perfect example of how good things
853
00:36:12,620 --> 00:36:14,053
can come in small packages.
854
00:36:21,061 --> 00:36:23,644
(ethnic music)
855
00:36:32,338 --> 00:36:34,921
(upbeat music)
856
00:36:37,230 --> 00:36:39,440
- Cruising into out
last stop on Kefalonia,
857
00:36:39,440 --> 00:36:42,070
we definitely left the best for last.
858
00:36:42,070 --> 00:36:44,240
This place was spectacular.
859
00:36:44,240 --> 00:36:46,860
Such was the beauty of the
landscape that everywhere
860
00:36:46,860 --> 00:36:49,560
I looked it was as though
I was gazing at a painting.
861
00:36:49,560 --> 00:36:50,430
The scenery would leave
862
00:36:50,430 --> 00:36:52,723
even the most well-traveled
person stunned.
863
00:36:53,740 --> 00:36:56,290
We're in the tiny
fishing village of Assos.
864
00:36:56,290 --> 00:36:59,667
It's a very quiet, serene atmosphere here
865
00:36:59,667 --> 00:37:02,470
and the colourful houses
are absolutely magnificent.
866
00:37:02,470 --> 00:37:03,540
We're not here for that.
867
00:37:03,540 --> 00:37:05,207
We're gonna go and see
this massive fort up here,
868
00:37:05,207 --> 00:37:06,480
one of the biggest I've seen.
869
00:37:06,480 --> 00:37:08,483
It runs for another 600 metres that way.
870
00:37:12,240 --> 00:37:13,500
When you come to Assos,
871
00:37:13,500 --> 00:37:15,650
there are three things you have to do.
872
00:37:15,650 --> 00:37:17,770
Firstly, take the long
walk to the fortress
873
00:37:17,770 --> 00:37:19,390
for a look around.
874
00:37:19,390 --> 00:37:20,790
Apart from being interesting,
875
00:37:20,790 --> 00:37:23,350
the views of the town below are awesome.
876
00:37:23,350 --> 00:37:25,570
Secondly, have a swim in the port.
877
00:37:25,570 --> 00:37:27,530
It's not often you find a
port with swimming spots
878
00:37:27,530 --> 00:37:30,020
that are better than most
beaches in the country.
879
00:37:30,020 --> 00:37:31,890
Then finally, make sure you have a meal
880
00:37:31,890 --> 00:37:33,270
at one of the harbor-side taverns.
881
00:37:33,270 --> 00:37:36,633
The food is generally great
and the backdrop, even better.
882
00:37:38,710 --> 00:37:41,110
The beauty of this town
hasn't been lost on yachties.
883
00:37:41,110 --> 00:37:43,500
It's a common stopover
for many a flotilla,
884
00:37:43,500 --> 00:37:45,110
who come in for a day or two to restock
885
00:37:45,110 --> 00:37:46,710
and relax in the sheltered port.
886
00:37:48,200 --> 00:37:49,810
Tourists also come here in numbers,
887
00:37:49,810 --> 00:37:52,190
with guided walks through the
streets and up to the fortress
888
00:37:52,190 --> 00:37:54,310
being popular throughout
the summer months.
889
00:37:54,310 --> 00:37:56,650
I'd actually like to spend
some time here in winter,
890
00:37:56,650 --> 00:37:58,240
when everything settles down
891
00:37:58,240 --> 00:38:00,400
and the place is almost deserted.
892
00:38:00,400 --> 00:38:03,201
I'd love to know who laid all this slate.
893
00:38:03,201 --> 00:38:04,151
Would be a big job.
894
00:38:06,202 --> 00:38:07,035
Ooh.
895
00:38:08,193 --> 00:38:10,543
I'll stand to the side a bit.
896
00:38:13,310 --> 00:38:15,020
The walk is close to two kilometres,
897
00:38:15,020 --> 00:38:16,170
but don't be concerned,
898
00:38:16,170 --> 00:38:17,910
because you can see from the switchbacks
899
00:38:17,910 --> 00:38:19,420
that it isn't too steep.
900
00:38:19,420 --> 00:38:22,260
It's a gradual incline and
having such incredible views
901
00:38:22,260 --> 00:38:24,840
to enjoy on the way up
distracts you from the fatigue.
902
00:38:24,840 --> 00:38:26,680
Oh, and another great
thing about this site
903
00:38:26,680 --> 00:38:27,850
is that it's free!
904
00:38:27,850 --> 00:38:29,700
There's no entry fee, guards,
905
00:38:29,700 --> 00:38:32,350
or barricades stopping you
from exploring everything.
906
00:38:33,738 --> 00:38:35,140
(exhales exhaustingly)
907
00:38:35,140 --> 00:38:39,160
1,800 metres, from the bottom to the top,
908
00:38:39,160 --> 00:38:40,483
and you can't come by car.
909
00:38:41,890 --> 00:38:44,670
But you don't have to be a
historian to come up here.
910
00:38:44,670 --> 00:38:47,670
If you like a good walk, it's magnificent.
911
00:38:47,670 --> 00:38:50,430
If you're a runner, run up it, I didn't.
912
00:38:50,430 --> 00:38:55,430
But even better, if you like
a good view, it's awesome.
913
00:38:55,675 --> 00:38:57,321
Santorini, eat your heart out.
914
00:38:57,321 --> 00:39:00,670
(gentle music)
915
00:39:00,670 --> 00:39:03,530
The castle was built by
the Venetians in 1596
916
00:39:03,530 --> 00:39:05,240
to protect the island from pirates,
917
00:39:05,240 --> 00:39:08,130
and it ended up becoming the
capital of North Kefalonia.
918
00:39:08,130 --> 00:39:09,890
The walls are long and very thick
919
00:39:09,890 --> 00:39:11,810
compared to other similar structures,
920
00:39:11,810 --> 00:39:14,000
which made it one of the
most impregnable fortresses
921
00:39:14,000 --> 00:39:15,210
in the Ionian.
922
00:39:15,210 --> 00:39:17,350
In the 1920s it was used as a prison,
923
00:39:17,350 --> 00:39:20,150
and later it was home to a
small settlement of families.
924
00:39:21,350 --> 00:39:24,120
The castle was inhabited by
40 families in the 1940s.
925
00:39:24,120 --> 00:39:27,170
Down to three in 1963
when it was abandoned.
926
00:39:27,170 --> 00:39:30,060
But what's really special about this fort,
927
00:39:30,060 --> 00:39:33,280
is it's claimed to have the longest wall
928
00:39:33,280 --> 00:39:34,980
in all of Greece.
929
00:39:34,980 --> 00:39:36,900
Two kilometres.
930
00:39:36,900 --> 00:39:39,860
General James Navia of the British Army
931
00:39:39,860 --> 00:39:43,720
claimed that it was
stronger than Gibralta.
932
00:39:43,720 --> 00:39:46,430
And when you walk around
here and look at these walls,
933
00:39:46,430 --> 00:39:48,003
you'd have to think he was right.
934
00:39:51,310 --> 00:39:53,510
Hundreds of years have
passed since it was built,
935
00:39:53,510 --> 00:39:56,290
and today it's as imposing
and impressive as ever.
936
00:39:56,290 --> 00:39:58,300
The walls may be crumbling
and the buildings
937
00:39:58,300 --> 00:40:00,540
that were once within
them might have fallen,
938
00:40:00,540 --> 00:40:03,010
but you still get a sense of
what this would have been.
939
00:40:03,010 --> 00:40:05,050
Imagine being an invading force,
940
00:40:05,050 --> 00:40:06,750
sailing into the port and looking up
941
00:40:06,750 --> 00:40:09,120
to see the towering fortress above.
942
00:40:09,120 --> 00:40:11,410
It's no wonder it stood for so long.
943
00:40:11,410 --> 00:40:14,060
Let's hope that it might
stand for another 500 years.
944
00:40:20,100 --> 00:40:20,933
Wow.
945
00:40:22,950 --> 00:40:26,290
I can see how artists and poets
946
00:40:27,330 --> 00:40:30,730
can get their inspiration
from places like this.
947
00:40:30,730 --> 00:40:33,660
It's so quiet, it's so serene.
948
00:40:33,660 --> 00:40:38,360
And the colours, the texture,
just the body of this place,
949
00:40:38,360 --> 00:40:39,943
the depth of field.
950
00:40:41,166 --> 00:40:42,250
(breathes out)
951
00:40:42,250 --> 00:40:44,400
You know, I'm just
taking two deep breaths.
952
00:40:45,610 --> 00:40:47,343
It's absolutely magnificent.
953
00:40:49,690 --> 00:40:51,740
Like most Greek historical sites,
954
00:40:51,740 --> 00:40:53,530
there's so much to see and learn.
955
00:40:53,530 --> 00:40:56,640
They always stir up
emotions and curiosity.
956
00:40:56,640 --> 00:40:58,310
It's these feelings I experience
957
00:40:58,310 --> 00:40:59,930
whenever I'm in places like this,
958
00:40:59,930 --> 00:41:02,960
that are the very foundation
of why I'm on this odyssey.
959
00:41:02,960 --> 00:41:05,520
I've been to Greece more
times than I can remember,
960
00:41:05,520 --> 00:41:08,580
but I'm continually excited
by discovering new places,
961
00:41:08,580 --> 00:41:11,090
and the unique identity
that every different port,
962
00:41:11,090 --> 00:41:13,010
town, or village has.
963
00:41:13,010 --> 00:41:14,430
There are hundreds of Greek islands
964
00:41:14,430 --> 00:41:16,720
and you might think they're
all gonna be the same.
965
00:41:16,720 --> 00:41:18,970
But the more I explore, the more I realise
966
00:41:18,970 --> 00:41:21,140
that it couldn't be
further from the truth.
967
00:41:21,140 --> 00:41:23,240
Many of these islands
have existed independently
968
00:41:23,240 --> 00:41:25,430
for centuries, and are only tied together
969
00:41:25,430 --> 00:41:27,610
by a common flag and language.
970
00:41:27,610 --> 00:41:29,680
Each has its own special culture,
971
00:41:29,680 --> 00:41:32,380
fascinating history, and unique flavours.
972
00:41:32,380 --> 00:41:34,600
It's this diversity that makes travelling
973
00:41:34,600 --> 00:41:36,760
through the Greek Islands so special.
974
00:41:36,760 --> 00:41:39,060
My next stop saw me
leaving Assos and cruising
975
00:41:39,060 --> 00:41:41,350
the few kilometres across
the straight to Ithaki.
976
00:41:41,350 --> 00:41:42,990
It was only a short trip,
977
00:41:42,990 --> 00:41:45,477
but a vastly different
offering to Kefalonia.
978
00:41:46,949 --> 00:41:48,749
Feeling a bit remote here, you know?
979
00:41:50,230 --> 00:41:54,050
There's none of us here,
no humans, for miles.
980
00:41:54,050 --> 00:41:55,500
Except me and the cameraman.
981
00:41:55,500 --> 00:41:57,503
But man, there's goats everywhere.
982
00:41:59,010 --> 00:42:00,600
Such a rugged terrain.
983
00:42:00,600 --> 00:42:01,433
Look at it.
984
00:42:02,480 --> 00:42:05,690
It's like looking at Google Earth.
985
00:42:05,690 --> 00:42:06,610
If it were up to me,
986
00:42:06,610 --> 00:42:08,690
the national animal of
Greece would be the goat.
987
00:42:08,690 --> 00:42:11,230
They're more at home here
than any other animal,
988
00:42:11,230 --> 00:42:12,063
and you'd be hard
pressed to find an island
989
00:42:12,063 --> 00:42:14,053
where they don't roam freely.
990
00:42:15,160 --> 00:42:18,550
The sea here, the Ionian Sea is massive,
991
00:42:18,550 --> 00:42:21,110
but the islands are so close together,
992
00:42:21,110 --> 00:42:23,170
that it's perfect for sailors.
993
00:42:23,170 --> 00:42:25,810
And it's actually perfect
for amateur sailors.
994
00:42:25,810 --> 00:42:28,550
You can see out there, one,
two, three, four, five,
995
00:42:28,550 --> 00:42:30,430
six sailing boats.
996
00:42:30,430 --> 00:42:32,500
They're actually part of a flotilla,
997
00:42:32,500 --> 00:42:34,620
and there are several flotillas
998
00:42:34,620 --> 00:42:36,550
that are sailing out there regularly.
999
00:42:36,550 --> 00:42:39,410
This place, Ithaki, gets
200 boats every day,
1000
00:42:39,410 --> 00:42:42,200
different parts of the
island through summer.
1001
00:42:42,200 --> 00:42:44,660
So that's a number of flotillas.
1002
00:42:44,660 --> 00:42:46,160
Now that I've arrived in Ithaki,
1003
00:42:46,160 --> 00:42:48,650
it's time to explore what
this ruggedly beautiful island
1004
00:42:48,650 --> 00:42:49,820
has to offer.
1005
00:42:49,820 --> 00:42:52,860
It might be small, but sure packs a punch.
1006
00:42:52,860 --> 00:42:55,543
Because it's so tiny, it's
easy to see a whole lot
1007
00:42:55,543 --> 00:42:56,967
in a little bit of time.
1008
00:42:56,967 --> 00:42:59,700
From here, my journey will
then take me to Lefkada.
1009
00:42:59,700 --> 00:43:01,800
It's a place full of myth and legend,
1010
00:43:01,800 --> 00:43:03,460
dating back to antiquity.
1011
00:43:03,460 --> 00:43:05,900
Being connected to the
mainland via a causeway,
1012
00:43:05,900 --> 00:43:07,810
it's a busy tourist destination,
1013
00:43:07,810 --> 00:43:10,500
but that hasn't taken away
from its authenticity.
1014
00:43:10,500 --> 00:43:12,510
Dig a little deeper than
the popular tourist haunts,
1015
00:43:12,510 --> 00:43:14,210
and you'll find a special place,
1016
00:43:14,210 --> 00:43:16,870
with both natural and manmade wonders.
1017
00:43:16,870 --> 00:43:19,310
But before then, I've
got some hiking to do.
1018
00:43:19,310 --> 00:43:22,270
I've often heard people being
referred to as mountain goats.
1019
00:43:22,270 --> 00:43:24,400
Well, that certainly isn't me.
1020
00:43:24,400 --> 00:43:26,860
As much as I love a good
walk through the countryside,
1021
00:43:26,860 --> 00:43:29,240
you'll never find me
perched on rock edges.
1022
00:43:29,240 --> 00:43:33,070
Peter Maneas and heights
certainly don't get along.
1023
00:43:33,070 --> 00:43:34,733
The beach is more my habitat.
1024
00:43:34,733 --> 00:43:37,316
(ethnic music)
79146
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.