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1
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(upbeat ethnic music)
2
00:00:22,920 --> 00:00:25,390
- From the bustling streets of
Athens and the historic port
3
00:00:25,390 --> 00:00:27,480
of Hydra, to the beaches of Zakynthos
4
00:00:27,480 --> 00:00:28,930
and villages of Kythera,
5
00:00:28,930 --> 00:00:30,540
our journey over the coming weeks spans
6
00:00:30,540 --> 00:00:33,320
many of the Ionian
islands, some well-known,
7
00:00:33,320 --> 00:00:35,290
others that few ever get to visit.
8
00:00:35,290 --> 00:00:36,123
But before heading off,
9
00:00:36,123 --> 00:00:37,890
you probably want to know
a little bit about me.
10
00:00:37,890 --> 00:00:39,530
My story starts as boy growing up
11
00:00:39,530 --> 00:00:41,090
in the inner suburbs of Sydney.
12
00:00:41,090 --> 00:00:42,920
Like a lot of Greeks early last century,
13
00:00:42,920 --> 00:00:45,457
my parents moved overseas to
find a better life abroad.
14
00:00:45,457 --> 00:00:48,410
They arrived with very little
and worked extremely hard
15
00:00:48,410 --> 00:00:50,350
to give my sisters and
I a loving upbringing.
16
00:00:50,350 --> 00:00:52,650
They also made me believe that
if I too worked hard enough,
17
00:00:52,650 --> 00:00:54,090
I could achieve anything.
18
00:00:54,090 --> 00:00:56,950
54 years later, I've built
a successful business.
19
00:00:56,950 --> 00:00:59,950
And that has enabled me to do
things I once only dreamed of.
20
00:00:59,950 --> 00:01:03,750
One of those dreams was to
step foot on all 227 inhabited
21
00:01:03,750 --> 00:01:06,160
Greek Islands, and I'm going
to take a big chunk out
22
00:01:06,160 --> 00:01:07,823
of that in this first series.
23
00:01:08,800 --> 00:01:11,220
In the last episode, I
finished my time on Kythera,
24
00:01:11,220 --> 00:01:12,810
before upping anchor and making a move
25
00:01:12,810 --> 00:01:15,140
to the spectacular island of Zakynthos.
26
00:01:15,140 --> 00:01:17,780
Being my family home,
it's always hard to leave,
27
00:01:17,780 --> 00:01:20,170
but where I was headed
had me really excited.
28
00:01:20,170 --> 00:01:22,830
Next stop, was a place that
rivals the most stunning beaches
29
00:01:22,830 --> 00:01:25,520
on the planet, the famed shipwreck cove,
30
00:01:25,520 --> 00:01:27,790
otherwise known as Navagio Beach.
31
00:01:27,790 --> 00:01:31,120
The white sand, azure
water and towering cliffs
32
00:01:31,120 --> 00:01:32,403
are spectacular!
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00:01:33,500 --> 00:01:35,780
This episode sees me
exploring the foundations
34
00:01:35,780 --> 00:01:37,260
of the island a little deeper.
35
00:01:37,260 --> 00:01:38,350
But before doing that,
36
00:01:38,350 --> 00:01:39,890
I have a quick side-trip that will take me
37
00:01:39,890 --> 00:01:41,780
into the blue at a dive site
38
00:01:41,780 --> 00:01:43,640
few get the opportunity to explore.
39
00:01:43,640 --> 00:01:45,750
Then it's back to Zakynthos
to try the local wine
40
00:01:45,750 --> 00:01:48,480
and produce, meet some of the
resident turtle population,
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00:01:48,480 --> 00:01:50,400
and explore the heart of the island.
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00:01:50,400 --> 00:01:52,390
Most people only know it for the beaches,
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00:01:52,390 --> 00:01:54,953
but there's a lot more to
this place than you'd expect.
44
00:01:55,930 --> 00:01:57,380
I always wake up early.
45
00:01:57,380 --> 00:02:00,640
On this occasion, it was a good
thing in more ways than one.
46
00:02:00,640 --> 00:02:03,540
Apart from the sunrise
being absolutely magic,
47
00:02:03,540 --> 00:02:05,680
I had received an email
overnight from someone
48
00:02:05,680 --> 00:02:08,190
very important in the
world of Greek archaeology.
49
00:02:08,190 --> 00:02:10,240
The head of the Ephorate
of Underwater Antiquities,
50
00:02:10,240 --> 00:02:12,860
Miss Simosi, had invited
me to put on the scuba gear
51
00:02:12,860 --> 00:02:15,120
and go for a dive at a very special place,
52
00:02:15,120 --> 00:02:16,570
the Columns of Pylos.
53
00:02:16,570 --> 00:02:18,450
It was the opportunity of a lifetime
54
00:02:18,450 --> 00:02:19,950
and I wasn't going to miss it!
55
00:02:21,560 --> 00:02:25,180
What we see in front of us, is Navarino,
56
00:02:25,180 --> 00:02:29,100
where the last battle was
fought between sailing ships,
57
00:02:29,100 --> 00:02:30,840
right here in the 1820's.
58
00:02:30,840 --> 00:02:33,080
And over to my right,
that's it there, Captain!
59
00:02:33,080 --> 00:02:34,055
- [Captain] Yes!
60
00:02:34,055 --> 00:02:35,070
- That's Néo Kástro.
61
00:02:35,070 --> 00:02:37,020
And that is where we are going now,
62
00:02:37,020 --> 00:02:40,520
to this wonderful museum,
on underwater antiquities.
63
00:02:40,520 --> 00:02:41,820
And we hope to do a dive this afternoon
64
00:02:41,820 --> 00:02:42,970
if the weather is good.
65
00:02:48,190 --> 00:02:49,900
Pylos is a large port town,
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and generally not an
overly busy tourist spot.
67
00:02:52,790 --> 00:02:54,440
Mind you, it probably should be!
68
00:02:54,440 --> 00:02:55,740
There's a lot going on here,
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00:02:55,740 --> 00:02:58,330
including ancient ruins
from Mycenaean times.
70
00:02:58,330 --> 00:03:00,350
It's the only place in
Greece that has a museum
71
00:03:00,350 --> 00:03:02,950
dedicated to the Ephorate
of Underwater Antiquities.
72
00:03:02,950 --> 00:03:05,440
They are specialists at
unearthing hidden treasures,
73
00:03:05,440 --> 00:03:07,883
lost to the sea and buried beneath silt.
74
00:03:09,110 --> 00:03:11,850
I'm walking up to a castle
known as Néo Kástro.
75
00:03:12,968 --> 00:03:15,470
Néo Kástro is Greek for new castle.
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00:03:15,470 --> 00:03:17,280
And you're probably
saying, not another castle.
77
00:03:17,280 --> 00:03:20,190
But this is not just another castle,
78
00:03:20,190 --> 00:03:24,940
behind these walls is the museum
for underwater antiquities.
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00:03:24,940 --> 00:03:29,390
And underwater archaeology
is really the last frontier
80
00:03:29,390 --> 00:03:32,090
of investigation in to
archaeology in Greece.
81
00:03:32,090 --> 00:03:33,763
There is so much to be seen.
82
00:03:34,680 --> 00:03:36,694
We're going to go and meet Miss Simosi.
83
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A very staunch lady, she's
the head of that department.
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00:03:44,250 --> 00:03:46,470
Built in the 15th and 16th centuries,
85
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the castle has an outer wall,
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entered via an imposing gateway.
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Inside, it opens up to
reveal an expansive area,
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where the towns people would have lived
89
00:03:54,730 --> 00:03:56,720
in relative safety from invaders.
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00:03:56,720 --> 00:03:58,900
The fortress itself is great to explore,
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with the remnant towers,
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00:04:00,310 --> 00:04:02,610
old cannons and stone
buildings providing a sense
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00:04:02,610 --> 00:04:04,070
of its past glory.
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00:04:04,070 --> 00:04:06,250
Central to the grounds are
some beautifully restored
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00:04:06,250 --> 00:04:07,970
buildings that house a collection telling
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00:04:07,970 --> 00:04:10,160
the story of Greece's
underwater treasures.
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00:04:10,160 --> 00:04:11,950
The restoration work and
museum were initially
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00:04:11,950 --> 00:04:13,980
the idea of Georgios Papathanasopoulos,
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the first curator of the Ephorate
of Underwater Antiquities.
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His legacy was continued
by others, most recently,
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00:04:20,490 --> 00:04:22,970
by this lady, Aggeliki Simosi.
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00:04:22,970 --> 00:04:25,670
I'm lucky enough to be
here, with the head,
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00:04:25,670 --> 00:04:28,040
of the underwater Ephorate, Mrs. Simosi.
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00:04:28,040 --> 00:04:30,653
She looks after 60
people in her department.
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00:04:51,800 --> 00:04:52,633
Unbelievable.
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00:04:52,633 --> 00:04:53,850
She's been doing this for a long time,
107
00:04:53,850 --> 00:04:56,100
I can't say how she is
though, not on camera!
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00:05:12,537 --> 00:05:14,457
(both laugh)
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00:05:14,457 --> 00:05:15,820
- Her commitment has to be commended.
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00:05:15,820 --> 00:05:17,430
A life lived with such passion,
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00:05:17,430 --> 00:05:18,930
is something we all aspire to.
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00:05:21,540 --> 00:05:23,430
In the collection are
fascinating treasures,
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you'll find nowhere else.
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00:05:25,210 --> 00:05:27,000
There's a diverse range
of things to look at,
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00:05:27,000 --> 00:05:29,520
spanning hundreds of
years of civilization.
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00:05:29,520 --> 00:05:31,400
It's amazing, I look at this,
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00:05:31,400 --> 00:05:35,530
and I see the delicate job
that archaeologists have.
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00:05:35,530 --> 00:05:39,830
The unification of infants
in burial was quite popular
119
00:05:39,830 --> 00:05:43,040
in antiquity and I can
see the detailed work
120
00:05:43,040 --> 00:05:44,940
that's involved in bringing
this stuff to the surface.
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00:05:44,940 --> 00:05:46,170
It's amazing.
122
00:05:46,170 --> 00:05:49,060
As a result of the recent
global financial crisis,
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00:05:49,060 --> 00:05:52,850
the Underwater Ephorate has
gone from 180 staff to just 60.
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00:05:52,850 --> 00:05:54,710
Wages are low and there are only six
125
00:05:54,710 --> 00:05:58,170
senior Dive Archaeologists
that have to not only explore,
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00:05:58,170 --> 00:05:59,930
but protect what's been discovered.
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00:05:59,930 --> 00:06:02,280
And there is so much in
Greek waters yet to be found.
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00:06:02,280 --> 00:06:05,060
Despite the financial
limitations they face
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00:06:05,060 --> 00:06:08,150
and the mammoth job at hand,
they work harder than ever.
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00:06:08,150 --> 00:06:10,800
It's not the picture you
typically hear about Greeks.
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00:06:11,889 --> 00:06:14,890
We're about to go on the
dive, 61 year old Greek woman,
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00:06:14,890 --> 00:06:15,723
having a go.
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00:06:15,723 --> 00:06:16,556
That's fantastic!
134
00:06:16,556 --> 00:06:17,389
I love this.
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00:06:20,460 --> 00:06:22,920
Such is Miss Simosi's love
of the underwater world,
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00:06:22,920 --> 00:06:25,440
and the lost antiquities
hidden there, that today,
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00:06:25,440 --> 00:06:27,310
despite no longer being in her youth,
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she still dives on these ancient sites.
139
00:06:29,510 --> 00:06:30,750
I guess I would too.
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00:06:30,750 --> 00:06:32,860
When you see these remarkable places,
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00:06:32,860 --> 00:06:34,450
it gives you an adrenalin rush.
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It creates a sense of
wonder that you only get
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from seeing such unique,
and spectacular things.
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This particular location
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is known as the Shipwreck of Columns.
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It's only 10 metres beneath the surface,
147
00:06:45,390 --> 00:06:46,900
just off Cape Spitha.
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00:06:46,900 --> 00:06:49,770
It was first found by
fishermen, back in the 1920's,
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00:06:49,770 --> 00:06:51,160
and research through
the years has been able
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00:06:51,160 --> 00:06:52,750
to piece together their story.
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The columns are made of a
type of granite that's found
152
00:06:54,670 --> 00:06:56,930
in Egypt and only certain parts of Greece.
153
00:06:56,930 --> 00:06:58,240
It's thought they came from a building
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00:06:58,240 --> 00:07:00,680
that had either been
demolished or collapsed.
155
00:07:00,680 --> 00:07:03,240
They cover a large area,
dotting the seafloor,
156
00:07:03,240 --> 00:07:05,530
with a small concentration
of them a short distance
157
00:07:05,530 --> 00:07:06,440
from the rest.
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00:07:06,440 --> 00:07:08,470
It's believed the ship
transporting them was caught
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00:07:08,470 --> 00:07:11,360
in rough seas, and as
it pitched and rolled,
160
00:07:11,360 --> 00:07:13,730
the columns gradually
started to roll overboard.
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Eventually, the ship almost capsized,
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sending the rest of its
cargo to the murky depths.
163
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(calm guitar music)
164
00:07:24,410 --> 00:07:26,060
Not far from the shipwreck of columns
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is another sunken ruin,
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only this ship had a much darker cargo.
167
00:07:30,430 --> 00:07:32,840
It was laden with
several stone sarcophagi.
168
00:07:32,840 --> 00:07:35,570
They're quite big, with
lids and carved sides.
169
00:07:35,570 --> 00:07:36,940
The decorations are simple,
170
00:07:36,940 --> 00:07:40,080
with floral motifs and designs
typical of the Roman period.
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00:07:40,080 --> 00:07:43,080
It's estimated that the ship
sank in the 3rd century AD,
172
00:07:43,080 --> 00:07:44,060
so for them to still be
173
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in such great condition is remarkable.
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As much as I love diving
on beautiful reefs,
175
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or swimming amongst schools of fish,
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I often find sites like
this to be more amazing.
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Knowing that these were made
by human hands, centuries ago,
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00:08:05,090 --> 00:08:08,240
and now reclaimed by Mother
Nature in such a dramatic way,
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creates a theatrical story
that inspires curiosity.
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00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:16,310
Having spent some time in
the water with Mrs. Simosi,
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00:08:16,310 --> 00:08:18,983
I can appreciate why
she's still so passionate!
182
00:08:18,983 --> 00:08:21,983
(calm guitar music)
183
00:08:25,072 --> 00:08:28,239
(upbeat ethnic music)
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After diving on the columns,
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I was buzzing for days afterwards.
186
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It might have been a long side-trip,
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but it was well worth the effort.
188
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We spent what was left of
the day relaxing in the area,
189
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then it was back to Zakynthos to continue
190
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my exploration of the island.
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So far, we had only scratched the surface,
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00:08:55,280 --> 00:08:58,070
and I was keen to see a bit
more of what it had to offer.
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The beaches are great,
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but there's plenty more to see and do,
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things that you don't often hear about.
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Of particular interest
was the turtle sanctuary.
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00:09:05,700 --> 00:09:08,050
Despite being one of the
busiest tourist destinations
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00:09:08,050 --> 00:09:10,120
in the country, the island
is still an incredibly
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00:09:10,120 --> 00:09:11,900
important turtle-nesting site.
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It's actually the largest such
place in the Mediterranean.
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It's a challenge for the
local marine parks people,
202
00:09:17,050 --> 00:09:18,300
who are responsible for the wellbeing
203
00:09:18,300 --> 00:09:21,290
of their annual visitors:
the loggerhead turtle.
204
00:09:21,290 --> 00:09:24,180
How many nests are there
in all of Zakynthos bay?
205
00:09:24,180 --> 00:09:26,450
- About 1,000 nests, the average of nests.
206
00:09:26,450 --> 00:09:29,250
- [Peter] And each nest, how
many eggs are in each nest?
207
00:09:29,250 --> 00:09:33,230
- About 120 eggs is the average of eggs
208
00:09:33,230 --> 00:09:34,910
that we have in one nest.
209
00:09:34,910 --> 00:09:36,520
- [Peter] And so what
is the survival rate?
210
00:09:36,520 --> 00:09:38,630
I would have thought, that's
a lot of turtles, isn't it?
211
00:09:38,630 --> 00:09:39,463
That's a lot of turtles coming out.
212
00:09:39,463 --> 00:09:40,997
- [Eirini] It's a lot of turtles, yeah.
213
00:09:40,997 --> 00:09:42,380
- [Peter] And how many survive?
214
00:09:42,380 --> 00:09:46,320
- It's going to be about
60 to 70% of one nest.
215
00:09:46,320 --> 00:09:49,030
And from the hatchlings,
that will go to the sea,
216
00:09:49,030 --> 00:09:52,360
it's going to be survival
of one to two in 1,000.
217
00:09:52,360 --> 00:09:54,280
- In 1,000?
- Yes.
218
00:09:54,280 --> 00:09:58,310
- Wow, Eirini I see
planes landing over here,
219
00:09:58,310 --> 00:10:00,600
there's tourists everywhere,
there's beach chairs,
220
00:10:00,600 --> 00:10:03,750
there's a hotel here,
there's a disco going,
221
00:10:03,750 --> 00:10:06,150
and we have a turtle's nest here.
222
00:10:06,150 --> 00:10:08,400
Many turtles' nests actually.
223
00:10:08,400 --> 00:10:11,070
How do you protect all of these turtles,
224
00:10:11,070 --> 00:10:12,450
how do you protect the nests?
225
00:10:12,450 --> 00:10:14,800
- It's difficult to protect this nest.
226
00:10:14,800 --> 00:10:19,220
- [Peter] You must be constantly
telling people to move!
227
00:10:19,220 --> 00:10:20,170
- Yeah!
228
00:10:20,170 --> 00:10:22,710
We have to do that all the time.
229
00:10:22,710 --> 00:10:25,170
Most of the time when we are working,
230
00:10:25,170 --> 00:10:27,350
we are working for eight hours,
231
00:10:27,350 --> 00:10:30,980
and most of that time we
inform all the visitors
232
00:10:32,160 --> 00:10:33,803
in one beach, in one area.
233
00:10:35,280 --> 00:10:36,950
We give them leaflets,
234
00:10:36,950 --> 00:10:40,520
and if somebody doesn't
understand from the first time,
235
00:10:40,520 --> 00:10:42,763
we have to say it again and again.
236
00:10:42,763 --> 00:10:43,970
Wow.
- Yeah.
237
00:10:43,970 --> 00:10:46,380
- Eirini, you've been doing
this all your working life,
238
00:10:46,380 --> 00:10:48,780
you're a Zakynthion, you're from--
239
00:10:48,780 --> 00:10:49,613
- I'm local, yeah.
240
00:10:49,613 --> 00:10:50,510
- You're a local.
241
00:10:50,510 --> 00:10:54,150
Your life has been dedicated
to protecting the turtles,
242
00:10:54,150 --> 00:10:55,610
it's a wonderful thing.
243
00:10:55,610 --> 00:10:56,800
How do you think you've gone,
244
00:10:56,800 --> 00:11:00,380
from when you started 17 years ago to now,
245
00:11:00,380 --> 00:11:01,910
is it getting better?
246
00:11:01,910 --> 00:11:03,300
Are there more hatchlings?
247
00:11:03,300 --> 00:11:05,925
- It's getting better, yes.
248
00:11:05,925 --> 00:11:10,925
We have now more nests than
we had when I started here,
249
00:11:12,368 --> 00:11:15,240
one good year it was about 800 nests.
250
00:11:15,240 --> 00:11:17,720
And last year, for example,
251
00:11:17,720 --> 00:11:20,740
it was very good here for Zakynthos,
252
00:11:20,740 --> 00:11:24,140
we found about 1,600 nests!
253
00:11:24,140 --> 00:11:27,500
- In 17 years, you've almost
doubled that amount of nesting
254
00:11:27,500 --> 00:11:29,610
that's happening here,
which is a fantastic thing.
255
00:11:29,610 --> 00:11:33,300
I know, because I see the
turtles everywhere I go.
256
00:11:33,300 --> 00:11:34,580
I've seen them in Kythera,
257
00:11:34,580 --> 00:11:36,350
I've seen them in Monemvasia.
258
00:11:36,350 --> 00:11:38,170
How far do they go around the world?
259
00:11:38,170 --> 00:11:39,003
How far?
260
00:11:39,003 --> 00:11:41,070
- We don't know where they
are going, they are small,
261
00:11:41,070 --> 00:11:44,070
they hatch and they are babies
when they come from here.
262
00:11:44,070 --> 00:11:44,903
- Right.
263
00:11:46,110 --> 00:11:48,140
Eirini has a challenging job,
264
00:11:48,140 --> 00:11:50,070
made all the more
frustrating by the ignorance
265
00:11:50,070 --> 00:11:51,570
of some of the visitors.
266
00:11:51,570 --> 00:11:53,850
As we walk along the beach
there are numerous nests,
267
00:11:53,850 --> 00:11:55,910
each cordoned off and signposted.
268
00:11:55,910 --> 00:11:58,160
But some people feel the
need to kick the signs over
269
00:11:58,160 --> 00:11:59,350
or even steal them.
270
00:11:59,350 --> 00:12:02,790
The worst thing is having to
tell people they need to move.
271
00:12:02,790 --> 00:12:04,273
Of course, with tourists
coming from around the world
272
00:12:04,273 --> 00:12:06,930
there's going to be the
occasional language barrier,
273
00:12:06,930 --> 00:12:10,580
but you'd hope people would
exercise more common sense.
274
00:12:10,580 --> 00:12:11,953
- National Marine Park.
275
00:12:13,420 --> 00:12:15,020
- Oh.
276
00:12:15,020 --> 00:12:15,960
- You understand?
277
00:12:15,960 --> 00:12:17,780
Here problem, no?
278
00:12:17,780 --> 00:12:19,160
You stay close to the sea.
279
00:12:19,160 --> 00:12:21,130
- Watching Eirini trying
to explain to this lady
280
00:12:21,130 --> 00:12:23,200
that she was lying
inside the exclusion zone
281
00:12:23,200 --> 00:12:24,653
was excruciating.
282
00:12:25,762 --> 00:12:27,860
I even got involved,
but it was to no avail.
283
00:12:27,860 --> 00:12:29,340
If I had to do what Eirini does,
284
00:12:29,340 --> 00:12:31,690
my methods would be swift and merciless.
285
00:12:31,690 --> 00:12:33,650
I think I'd be out of
a job pretty quickly!
286
00:12:33,650 --> 00:12:35,410
I really have to hand it to these guys.
287
00:12:35,410 --> 00:12:38,130
They persist despite all
the challenges they face.
288
00:12:38,130 --> 00:12:40,308
- You can't use this one, no.
289
00:12:40,308 --> 00:12:41,610
- They don't do it for themselves,
290
00:12:41,610 --> 00:12:44,150
but for the survival
of loggerhead turtles.
291
00:12:44,150 --> 00:12:46,180
With only a few sites
like this left in Greece,
292
00:12:46,180 --> 00:12:48,950
it's paramount that we protect them.
293
00:12:48,950 --> 00:12:50,560
It's a thankless task.
294
00:12:50,560 --> 00:12:53,700
Day in, day out, it's the same routine.
295
00:12:53,700 --> 00:12:56,280
The thing is, turtles return
to the beach they were born
296
00:12:56,280 --> 00:12:59,410
on to nest, so they can't
simply relocate them.
297
00:12:59,410 --> 00:13:01,640
Also, it's an unfortunate
reality that the nesting season
298
00:13:01,640 --> 00:13:04,220
falls right at the peak
of the tourist period,
299
00:13:04,220 --> 00:13:06,420
and some folks either
don't notice the signs,
300
00:13:06,420 --> 00:13:08,290
or simply don't care.
301
00:13:08,290 --> 00:13:11,040
It's a good thing there are
people like Eirini that do.
302
00:13:15,540 --> 00:13:17,530
For those who are keen to see the turtles,
303
00:13:17,530 --> 00:13:19,160
there are plenty of boats
to take you to view them
304
00:13:19,160 --> 00:13:20,850
in their natural habitat.
305
00:13:20,850 --> 00:13:21,820
The best place to do this
306
00:13:21,820 --> 00:13:24,080
is on the tiny island of Marathonisi.
307
00:13:24,080 --> 00:13:25,580
Here you're spoiled for choice,
308
00:13:25,580 --> 00:13:28,960
and can hop on a normal vessel
or even a glass bottom one.
309
00:13:28,960 --> 00:13:31,150
Apart from the turtles,
people and tour boats,
310
00:13:31,150 --> 00:13:32,513
there's something else on Marathonisi
311
00:13:32,513 --> 00:13:34,393
there's no shortage of.
312
00:13:35,277 --> 00:13:39,943
The Peripteros or kiosks, are
on every corner in Greece.
313
00:13:39,943 --> 00:13:43,923
They are even on these tiny
little islands of Marathonisi.
314
00:13:43,923 --> 00:13:45,623
And there's not one, there's five!
315
00:13:48,130 --> 00:13:49,426
You know, George, Andreas,
316
00:13:49,426 --> 00:13:51,800
you know what I don't understand,
317
00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:53,540
there's five shops like this
318
00:13:53,540 --> 00:13:54,373
here now.
- Yeah.
319
00:13:54,373 --> 00:13:56,510
And it's a little beach!
320
00:13:56,510 --> 00:13:57,910
How do you do business here?
321
00:13:59,270 --> 00:14:01,230
- We make a deal.
322
00:14:01,230 --> 00:14:02,580
- Oh, you make a deal?
- We make a deal.
323
00:14:02,580 --> 00:14:05,700
We are here today, tomorrow
we will go down there--
324
00:14:05,700 --> 00:14:06,710
- All right, okay.
325
00:14:06,710 --> 00:14:08,874
- After tomorrow we are
going around the back--
326
00:14:08,874 --> 00:14:09,707
- Yes.
327
00:14:09,707 --> 00:14:12,921
- And in the five days, one day, day off.
328
00:14:12,921 --> 00:14:14,409
- Oh, that's good, that's good.
329
00:14:14,409 --> 00:14:16,509
And is it mainly Greeks that come here or?
330
00:14:17,869 --> 00:14:19,556
Where do they come from?
- No, no, no.
331
00:14:19,556 --> 00:14:22,700
Greeks they come here only
in August, and Sundays.
332
00:14:22,700 --> 00:14:23,533
- [Peter] Right, okay.
333
00:14:23,533 --> 00:14:25,600
- All the time, it's tourists.
334
00:14:25,600 --> 00:14:28,030
- [Peter] And Andreas, why
do they come to this tiny
335
00:14:28,030 --> 00:14:29,063
little island of Marathonisi?
336
00:14:29,063 --> 00:14:31,840
There's all of (mumbles) here,
why are they coming here?
337
00:14:31,840 --> 00:14:35,580
- Because they go, they see
the turtles in the water first,
338
00:14:35,580 --> 00:14:37,963
and after they come
here, to see the place,
339
00:14:38,850 --> 00:14:40,800
where the turtles birth the eggs.
340
00:14:40,800 --> 00:14:41,990
- Right, okay.
341
00:14:41,990 --> 00:14:44,780
These floating peripteros are brilliant.
342
00:14:44,780 --> 00:14:48,450
You can have a swim, check
out the turtles, sunbake,
343
00:14:48,450 --> 00:14:50,240
then grab a cold drink and ice cream,
344
00:14:50,240 --> 00:14:52,773
all the while walking
little more than 50 metres!
345
00:14:56,990 --> 00:14:58,890
What a magic spot.
346
00:14:58,890 --> 00:15:00,580
You'll notice very few boats are here
347
00:15:00,580 --> 00:15:02,720
and there's no one at anchor.
348
00:15:02,720 --> 00:15:05,750
It's done to protect the sea
grass that the turtles feed on.
349
00:15:05,750 --> 00:15:07,410
It's awesome to think that
people might have been
350
00:15:07,410 --> 00:15:09,100
in Zakynthos for a few millennia,
351
00:15:09,100 --> 00:15:12,467
but turtles have been coming
here for millions of years.
352
00:15:12,467 --> 00:15:14,884
(calm music)
353
00:15:19,071 --> 00:15:22,238
(upbeat ethnic music)
354
00:15:30,560 --> 00:15:33,700
We're just behind the
main square in Zakynthos.
355
00:15:33,700 --> 00:15:37,690
And hidden behind here, is
this wonderful little gem.
356
00:15:37,690 --> 00:15:39,640
Not many people know about it,
357
00:15:39,640 --> 00:15:44,170
but most Greeks know that
the best nougat in Greece,
358
00:15:44,170 --> 00:15:48,040
possibly the world, is here in
Zakynthos, at this very shop.
359
00:15:48,040 --> 00:15:49,880
And if I don't take some back with me,
360
00:15:49,880 --> 00:15:51,723
my brother in law is going to kill me.
361
00:16:08,029 --> 00:16:11,280
- Man, that's been mixing
like that for four hours!
362
00:16:11,280 --> 00:16:12,311
Unbelievable.
363
00:16:12,311 --> 00:16:13,144
Fantastic.
364
00:16:23,230 --> 00:16:24,830
- We're just about to put the almonds in,
365
00:16:24,830 --> 00:16:28,070
and we're ready to take
it out which is fantastic.
366
00:16:28,070 --> 00:16:29,907
We got here just in time!
367
00:16:29,907 --> 00:16:31,407
It's unbelievable.
368
00:16:36,690 --> 00:16:37,557
- Okay, all right.
369
00:16:37,557 --> 00:16:39,340
That's a secret.
370
00:16:39,340 --> 00:16:40,550
He won't tell me what
he's putting in right now.
371
00:16:40,550 --> 00:16:41,480
But there is not much of it, so,
372
00:16:41,480 --> 00:16:43,523
is it going to make much of a difference?
373
00:16:45,170 --> 00:16:48,000
The local nougat is known as Mandolato.
374
00:16:48,000 --> 00:16:50,853
It originated in Venice, but
Zakynthos is famed for it.
375
00:16:56,308 --> 00:16:57,487
He's going to turn it off now.
376
00:16:57,487 --> 00:17:00,500
But he said I could
actually stick my finger in,
377
00:17:00,500 --> 00:17:02,700
I think you should turn
off while I do that.
378
00:17:07,630 --> 00:17:10,213
(Peter laughs)
379
00:17:13,684 --> 00:17:15,067
- Not with the same one.
380
00:17:15,067 --> 00:17:16,590
I took a big chunk.
381
00:17:16,590 --> 00:17:19,047
You're supposed to turn
off while I'm doing this.
382
00:17:20,763 --> 00:17:21,693
That is awesome!
383
00:17:23,283 --> 00:17:24,240
So what he's doing now,
384
00:17:24,240 --> 00:17:27,580
is getting the nougat from the bowl,
385
00:17:27,580 --> 00:17:31,468
and just stretching it out on these discs.
386
00:17:31,468 --> 00:17:33,168
They are actually flour and water.
387
00:17:34,333 --> 00:17:35,166
Look at that!
388
00:17:35,166 --> 00:17:36,143
It's not on my hands.
389
00:17:41,191 --> 00:17:45,860
(speaking in foreign language)
390
00:17:45,860 --> 00:17:47,240
And it just goes into the other room,
391
00:17:47,240 --> 00:17:48,740
where it's going to cool down.
392
00:17:50,500 --> 00:17:51,333
This is awesome.
393
00:17:51,333 --> 00:17:52,480
There is a whole process,
394
00:17:52,480 --> 00:17:55,030
this whole process that I
am part of at the moment.
395
00:18:00,740 --> 00:18:02,030
He said if I worked in the kitchen,
396
00:18:02,030 --> 00:18:04,400
but I've also worked as a goalkeeper!
397
00:18:04,400 --> 00:18:06,023
Come and have a look
at this, it's awesome.
398
00:18:11,580 --> 00:18:14,970
Everything you see here is
done as it was 100 years ago,
399
00:18:14,970 --> 00:18:16,330
except for the mixer.
400
00:18:16,330 --> 00:18:18,500
In the old days, the mixing
was done using an oar
401
00:18:18,500 --> 00:18:19,730
from a boat.
402
00:18:19,730 --> 00:18:22,530
One man would start the
process, and as it got harder,
403
00:18:22,530 --> 00:18:23,890
more would help.
404
00:18:23,890 --> 00:18:26,690
After four hours there would
be five guys stirring the pot.
405
00:18:26,690 --> 00:18:27,743
Now that's hard work!
406
00:18:32,920 --> 00:18:33,953
- Okay.
407
00:18:33,953 --> 00:18:34,786
I'm going to learn how to do this now!
408
00:18:34,786 --> 00:18:36,013
- Okay.
- Yeah.
409
00:18:48,375 --> 00:18:49,875
- Mate, I'm a pro!
410
00:18:53,270 --> 00:18:55,793
- I think mine is better than
his actually, but anyway.
411
00:19:04,955 --> 00:19:06,005
This is like a brick!
412
00:19:24,674 --> 00:19:26,189
- He wants me to come back!
413
00:19:26,189 --> 00:19:29,523
Hang on a second, I'm not that good.
414
00:19:29,523 --> 00:19:30,743
- That was awesome!
415
00:19:34,280 --> 00:19:36,120
- He's hitting back with that gear!
416
00:19:39,140 --> 00:19:41,460
These guys do this not
only to earn a living,
417
00:19:41,460 --> 00:19:43,020
but out of passion.
418
00:19:43,020 --> 00:19:45,620
They've been making
nougat for generations,
419
00:19:45,620 --> 00:19:47,510
and there are few people
left with the knowledge
420
00:19:47,510 --> 00:19:49,200
and experience they possess,
421
00:19:49,200 --> 00:19:51,370
producing this delicious product.
422
00:19:51,370 --> 00:19:53,770
It's incredible just how
much work goes into it.
423
00:19:59,870 --> 00:20:01,050
This looks awesome, look at the colour,
424
00:20:01,050 --> 00:20:02,050
look at the texture.
425
00:20:03,000 --> 00:20:04,563
The smell is fantastic!
426
00:20:08,420 --> 00:20:09,363
- It's the honey.
427
00:20:13,533 --> 00:20:16,800
- You can see here, you can see
the almond, has cut through.
428
00:20:16,800 --> 00:20:19,260
So you're getting the aroma of the almond,
429
00:20:19,260 --> 00:20:20,483
and the honey together.
430
00:20:24,060 --> 00:20:25,810
- I'm going to have some right now.
431
00:20:32,960 --> 00:20:35,297
I tell you mate, that is awesome!
432
00:20:41,100 --> 00:20:42,300
- You can't eat and do at the
same time for two reasons.
433
00:20:45,576 --> 00:20:48,012
Two reasons: one, I'd end up this big;
434
00:20:48,012 --> 00:20:51,512
and two, you wouldn't do the job properly.
435
00:21:09,914 --> 00:21:12,331
(both laugh)
436
00:21:26,720 --> 00:21:29,863
- And this is not speeding up
for the camera, this is real!
437
00:21:38,123 --> 00:21:39,870
- 1,500 pieces they'll do today.
438
00:21:39,870 --> 00:21:41,583
It will take about an hour and a half.
439
00:21:41,583 --> 00:21:46,190
Or if I was doing them,
about three or four weeks.
440
00:21:46,190 --> 00:21:47,023
Yeah, weeks!
441
00:21:47,023 --> 00:21:48,253
We said it together.
442
00:21:50,273 --> 00:21:52,010
The key to keep it fresh
Dionisis is saying,
443
00:21:52,010 --> 00:21:53,950
is to leave it in your fridge.
444
00:21:53,950 --> 00:21:54,783
Fantastic!
445
00:21:55,900 --> 00:21:56,733
- Okay.
446
00:22:03,280 --> 00:22:04,113
- No worries.
447
00:22:06,696 --> 00:22:07,529
- Okay.
448
00:22:07,529 --> 00:22:08,362
- All right.
449
00:22:13,418 --> 00:22:15,251
- This is for my work!
450
00:22:21,372 --> 00:22:22,500
- Okay.
451
00:22:22,500 --> 00:22:23,700
- Hey, Tom!
452
00:22:23,700 --> 00:22:24,810
You waiting?
453
00:22:24,810 --> 00:22:25,933
- [Dionisis] Thank you very much!
454
00:22:25,933 --> 00:22:27,933
- Thank you!
- Thank you!
455
00:22:31,374 --> 00:22:34,541
(upbeat ethnic music)
456
00:22:48,460 --> 00:22:50,050
- In the peak of the summer season,
457
00:22:50,050 --> 00:22:51,810
this is a busy town.
458
00:22:51,810 --> 00:22:54,270
It swells with visitors
from Greece and abroad,
459
00:22:54,270 --> 00:22:56,240
most of which come for the beaches.
460
00:22:56,240 --> 00:22:58,540
But there's one thing
the island is famous for,
461
00:22:58,540 --> 00:23:01,230
that a lot of outsiders
are likely unaware of,
462
00:23:01,230 --> 00:23:03,940
and that's the poets
and writers born here.
463
00:23:03,940 --> 00:23:06,620
The Venetian influence meant
that education has always been
464
00:23:06,620 --> 00:23:09,770
a priority in Zakynthos,
and a spinoff of that,
465
00:23:09,770 --> 00:23:12,000
was that the arts thrived.
466
00:23:12,000 --> 00:23:14,390
Out of the many authors that
have called this island home,
467
00:23:14,390 --> 00:23:17,320
of particular note is Dionysios Solomos,
468
00:23:17,320 --> 00:23:19,310
the poet who wrote the national anthem.
469
00:23:19,310 --> 00:23:21,440
He's immortalised for his patriotic song
470
00:23:21,440 --> 00:23:23,850
that evokes the history
and culture of Greece,
471
00:23:23,850 --> 00:23:25,780
and subsequently many statues,
472
00:23:25,780 --> 00:23:28,070
one of which stands in the centre of town.
473
00:23:28,070 --> 00:23:29,970
In these parts, and across the country,
474
00:23:29,970 --> 00:23:31,703
his story has become legend!
475
00:23:32,650 --> 00:23:37,650
- Around 1821, during
the war of Independence,
476
00:23:38,690 --> 00:23:41,490
of course fighting the Ottomans,
477
00:23:41,490 --> 00:23:44,020
he became a very important person,
478
00:23:44,020 --> 00:23:47,360
because they say that he
sat here in this place,
479
00:23:47,360 --> 00:23:52,360
and wrote the poem that
became the national anthem.
480
00:23:52,360 --> 00:23:55,700
He heard the gun fire on the mainland,
481
00:23:55,700 --> 00:24:00,560
between the rebellion
army and the ottomans,
482
00:24:00,560 --> 00:24:02,420
and he was inspired.
483
00:24:02,420 --> 00:24:04,140
- Wow!
- And he wrote the words
484
00:24:04,140 --> 00:24:06,010
to the national anthem.
485
00:24:06,010 --> 00:24:08,170
- It's an awesome anthem
too, I love anthems.
486
00:24:08,170 --> 00:24:09,330
I don't know what it is.
487
00:24:09,330 --> 00:24:11,683
I love the Australian anthem,
I love the Greek anthem,
488
00:24:11,683 --> 00:24:13,430
I actually like the American anthem,
489
00:24:13,430 --> 00:24:14,340
there is something about them.
490
00:24:14,340 --> 00:24:16,770
But to know that he
actually wrote it here.
491
00:24:16,770 --> 00:24:18,550
I understand his house is
just over there somewhere?
492
00:24:18,550 --> 00:24:23,150
- Yes, they say it was
over there, yes, yeah.
493
00:24:23,150 --> 00:24:23,983
- Fantastic.
494
00:24:23,983 --> 00:24:24,816
And there's a few Greek flags,
495
00:24:24,816 --> 00:24:26,223
do you think there's
enough Greek flags here?
496
00:24:27,090 --> 00:24:27,923
Amazing.
497
00:24:29,430 --> 00:24:31,383
I'm going to go and sit down where he sat.
498
00:24:34,100 --> 00:24:36,160
Dionysios created a poem that encapsulates
499
00:24:36,160 --> 00:24:39,430
the passion and culture of
Greece in powerful words.
500
00:24:39,430 --> 00:24:41,770
It's this rich heritage and
the fervour of the people
501
00:24:41,770 --> 00:24:43,970
that helps make this such a great country.
502
00:24:43,970 --> 00:24:46,260
It's so good in fact, that
many of those that leave,
503
00:24:46,260 --> 00:24:48,230
find themselves drawn back again.
504
00:24:48,230 --> 00:24:50,640
A perfect example is my neighbour Jim,
505
00:24:50,640 --> 00:24:52,330
who is also a great friend.
506
00:24:52,330 --> 00:24:54,800
He was born in Zakynthos
and at a young age,
507
00:24:54,800 --> 00:24:58,520
over 60 years ago, left for
a better life in Australia.
508
00:24:58,520 --> 00:25:02,070
He married, raised a family
and made a success of himself.
509
00:25:02,070 --> 00:25:04,330
But for the last 30
years he's split his life
510
00:25:04,330 --> 00:25:05,740
between the two countries.
511
00:25:05,740 --> 00:25:07,880
It's not that he prefers
one over the other.
512
00:25:07,880 --> 00:25:09,750
It's because this is his birthplace,
513
00:25:09,750 --> 00:25:12,560
and he feels a tangible connection here.
514
00:25:12,560 --> 00:25:16,300
You know Jim, when you told
me that you have a house
515
00:25:16,300 --> 00:25:19,390
in Zakynthos that's three
kilometres from the beach,
516
00:25:19,390 --> 00:25:23,890
and yet you live 100 metres
from the beach in Australia,
517
00:25:23,890 --> 00:25:27,410
I could never understand why
you'd keep coming back here.
518
00:25:27,410 --> 00:25:28,660
It's beautiful, isn't it?
519
00:25:29,611 --> 00:25:31,540
- Well, yes, it is, it's
beautiful here and beautiful
520
00:25:31,540 --> 00:25:33,210
in Australia as well.
521
00:25:33,210 --> 00:25:38,100
But Greece is our country.
522
00:25:38,100 --> 00:25:39,530
It's inside the heart,
523
00:25:39,530 --> 00:25:40,730
we were born here.
524
00:25:40,730 --> 00:25:43,920
It's a beautiful island
Zakynthos, we've got everything.
525
00:25:43,920 --> 00:25:46,780
We've got olives, did you
see all of these trees here?
526
00:25:46,780 --> 00:25:49,410
- They are all your trees?
- Yes, yes, we grow.
527
00:25:49,410 --> 00:25:50,420
- [Peter] I never understand Jim,
528
00:25:50,420 --> 00:25:53,040
but until you come here
you don't appreciate
529
00:25:53,040 --> 00:25:56,090
that the life is easy here.
530
00:25:56,090 --> 00:25:58,210
You know, you're living from the land.
531
00:25:58,210 --> 00:25:59,720
- That's right.
532
00:25:59,720 --> 00:26:04,720
It's a different type of life
than to in Australia, right?
533
00:26:04,743 --> 00:26:07,090
Australia is good, it is very nice,
534
00:26:07,090 --> 00:26:10,170
we have a good spot
there in Clovelly beach,
535
00:26:10,170 --> 00:26:11,683
but this is different.
536
00:26:12,520 --> 00:26:15,290
We break the life in two.
537
00:26:15,290 --> 00:26:16,123
- [Peter] Yeah.
538
00:26:16,123 --> 00:26:17,880
- Half in Australia and half in Greece.
539
00:26:17,880 --> 00:26:20,995
- You've got the life
Jim, you've got the life!
540
00:26:20,995 --> 00:26:21,828
- Yeah.
541
00:26:21,828 --> 00:26:23,080
So that's why we are here, every year.
542
00:26:23,080 --> 00:26:24,610
- Yes.
- Every year.
543
00:26:24,610 --> 00:26:27,780
The climate is every day it is 32 degrees,
544
00:26:27,780 --> 00:26:29,340
for months and months.
545
00:26:29,340 --> 00:26:30,880
Not up and down, like Australia,
546
00:26:30,880 --> 00:26:33,690
but we put up with it, yeah?
547
00:26:33,690 --> 00:26:38,180
And we spend more years in Australia,
548
00:26:38,180 --> 00:26:41,110
but we never forgot our country.
549
00:26:41,110 --> 00:26:41,990
- Now tell me Jim,
550
00:26:41,990 --> 00:26:45,020
do you have some olive
oil from your olive trees
551
00:26:45,020 --> 00:26:46,670
at the moment?
- Yes, of course!
552
00:26:47,940 --> 00:26:50,135
- Well, we're going to have some now!
553
00:26:50,135 --> 00:26:50,968
Have you got something to eat?
554
00:26:50,968 --> 00:26:51,967
Let's go, let's go.
555
00:26:51,967 --> 00:26:52,800
Come on, come on.
556
00:26:52,800 --> 00:26:55,383
(lively music)
557
00:27:03,170 --> 00:27:05,360
It's amazing how you
can have strong cultural
558
00:27:05,360 --> 00:27:08,160
and personal ties to a
place, even many decades
559
00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:09,610
after having left.
560
00:27:09,610 --> 00:27:12,350
For some, they can depart
the place of their birth
561
00:27:12,350 --> 00:27:15,250
and feel perfectly at ease
for the rest of their lives.
562
00:27:15,250 --> 00:27:18,020
Others, long for the
sounds, smells and flavours
563
00:27:18,020 --> 00:27:20,400
of their youth, and feel
most at ease when in the land
564
00:27:20,400 --> 00:27:21,620
of their heritage.
565
00:27:21,620 --> 00:27:24,190
Greeks often fall into
the latter category.
566
00:27:24,190 --> 00:27:25,970
I don't know if it's because
of the unique culture
567
00:27:25,970 --> 00:27:29,330
or landscapes, or just that
we're a romantic people
568
00:27:29,330 --> 00:27:31,660
with an intrinsic bond to our homeland.
569
00:27:31,660 --> 00:27:34,270
Whatever the case, Jim keeps coming back,
570
00:27:34,270 --> 00:27:36,120
to maintain a connection to his past.
571
00:27:37,252 --> 00:27:39,835
(lively music)
572
00:27:41,200 --> 00:27:43,550
There's no denying the
attraction to a simple life
573
00:27:43,550 --> 00:27:45,360
in an island paradise.
574
00:27:45,360 --> 00:27:47,080
Here, things move slowly,
575
00:27:47,080 --> 00:27:48,870
and the people celebrate
their heritage in a way
576
00:27:48,870 --> 00:27:50,300
that only Greek's do.
577
00:27:50,300 --> 00:27:53,730
Song, dance, fantastic
food and community spirit
578
00:27:53,730 --> 00:27:55,650
are foundations of the country.
579
00:27:55,650 --> 00:27:57,750
These traditions are most
apparent in the small towns
580
00:27:57,750 --> 00:28:00,300
and islands, away from the major centres.
581
00:28:00,300 --> 00:28:02,640
Out here, it's all about tradition.
582
00:28:02,640 --> 00:28:05,000
It extends into the way the
people lead their lives,
583
00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:08,163
the food they eat and even
the age-old farming practises.
584
00:28:09,630 --> 00:28:11,870
Watching the singing
and dancing took me back
585
00:28:11,870 --> 00:28:13,210
to my childhood.
586
00:28:13,210 --> 00:28:15,310
Coming to Greece with my
family and being immersed
587
00:28:15,310 --> 00:28:16,143
in the culture,
588
00:28:16,143 --> 00:28:19,020
it was a wonderful time in
my life and helped shape
589
00:28:19,020 --> 00:28:20,890
the man I've become.
590
00:28:20,890 --> 00:28:23,650
I hope that by sharing these
same experiences with my son,
591
00:28:23,650 --> 00:28:25,980
that he too will grow to
appreciate the simple things
592
00:28:25,980 --> 00:28:28,913
in life and come to
embrace his Greek heritage.
593
00:28:30,461 --> 00:28:35,211
(men singing lively in foreign language)
594
00:28:45,889 --> 00:28:49,056
(upbeat ethnic music)
595
00:28:56,690 --> 00:28:59,350
Most people don't associate
Greece with great wine.
596
00:28:59,350 --> 00:29:00,600
And when it comes to the islands,
597
00:29:00,600 --> 00:29:03,800
it seems even less likely you'll
come across a quality drop.
598
00:29:03,800 --> 00:29:05,860
But that couldn't be
further from the truth.
599
00:29:05,860 --> 00:29:07,920
While the popularity of
Greek wine may not match
600
00:29:07,920 --> 00:29:10,400
that of what comes out
of France or California,
601
00:29:10,400 --> 00:29:12,010
you'll discover that in many cases,
602
00:29:12,010 --> 00:29:13,630
it certainly holds its own.
603
00:29:13,630 --> 00:29:15,530
If you're just willing got give it a try.
604
00:29:15,530 --> 00:29:19,890
I've come to probably one of
the most sustainable locations
605
00:29:19,890 --> 00:29:20,723
in the world.
606
00:29:21,680 --> 00:29:24,220
Here in the centre of Zakynthos,
607
00:29:24,220 --> 00:29:28,570
is just a wonderful farm where
Andonis makes his own wine
608
00:29:28,570 --> 00:29:32,940
from his own grapes, his own
olive oil from his olives,
609
00:29:32,940 --> 00:29:36,020
his own meat from his own chickens.
610
00:29:36,020 --> 00:29:37,530
He does absolutely everything.
611
00:29:37,530 --> 00:29:39,500
Not only does he do it for himself,
612
00:29:39,500 --> 00:29:43,293
but people come from all over
Zakynthos to eat at his farm.
613
00:29:44,827 --> 00:29:47,910
(lighthearted music)
614
00:29:56,696 --> 00:29:58,257
- We're going to go and
check his wines out.
615
00:30:04,620 --> 00:30:05,923
- Look at these beauties.
616
00:30:11,083 --> 00:30:13,916
- So we're trying the white first.
617
00:30:14,851 --> 00:30:19,491
(man speaks in foreign language)
618
00:30:19,491 --> 00:30:21,830
It's a classic recipe, with
three different grape types.
619
00:30:21,830 --> 00:30:23,783
Boy, one of them comes from--
620
00:30:28,121 --> 00:30:29,171
- A little bit green.
621
00:30:35,020 --> 00:30:37,090
- That is super smooth!
622
00:30:37,090 --> 00:30:38,480
I could drink this all day.
623
00:30:38,480 --> 00:30:41,853
It is just a wine to
drink with your dinner.
624
00:30:44,840 --> 00:30:46,390
- We're going to try a red now.
625
00:30:48,700 --> 00:30:51,253
I think I'm trying a little
bit more than I should try.
626
00:30:54,710 --> 00:30:55,633
- Once again.
627
00:30:58,710 --> 00:30:59,543
- Yes.
628
00:31:09,239 --> 00:31:11,822
(Peter laughs)
629
00:31:17,220 --> 00:31:18,590
- We're going to go and see
630
00:31:18,590 --> 00:31:20,440
the vines where this wine comes from.
631
00:31:22,930 --> 00:31:24,340
Greeks have been making wine longer
632
00:31:24,340 --> 00:31:26,470
than pretty much anyone else.
633
00:31:26,470 --> 00:31:28,850
This means that the consumption
of it has become part
634
00:31:28,850 --> 00:31:29,780
of the culture.
635
00:31:29,780 --> 00:31:33,780
A glass of red with lunch or
dinner is relatively common.
636
00:31:33,780 --> 00:31:35,480
It's also led to a huge variety
637
00:31:35,480 --> 00:31:37,270
in the types of wines produced.
638
00:31:37,270 --> 00:31:38,860
Every region, and even island,
639
00:31:38,860 --> 00:31:41,810
produces their own style with
influences from the climate,
640
00:31:41,810 --> 00:31:45,750
soil and techniques giving them
vast differences in flavour.
641
00:31:45,750 --> 00:31:50,750
He's got this whole valley,
is his farm, no chemicals,
642
00:31:51,620 --> 00:31:54,620
only manure from the chickens, the horses,
643
00:31:54,620 --> 00:31:55,453
and the animals.
644
00:31:55,453 --> 00:31:56,286
It's right in front of us!
645
00:31:56,286 --> 00:31:57,470
I'm looking at it right now.
646
00:32:05,832 --> 00:32:06,665
- Mm.
647
00:32:06,665 --> 00:32:08,093
I tell you, these grapes.
648
00:32:10,130 --> 00:32:12,890
I've been to my fair share of wineries,
649
00:32:12,890 --> 00:32:15,200
and the grapes are always, I don't know,
650
00:32:15,200 --> 00:32:17,930
they don't taste good, maybe
because they are made for wine.
651
00:32:17,930 --> 00:32:19,270
But these guys.
652
00:32:19,270 --> 00:32:21,970
Not only is the wine good,
but the grapes are awesome!
653
00:32:26,370 --> 00:32:27,203
- Oh, mate.
654
00:32:27,203 --> 00:32:28,181
We've just spotted some figs!
655
00:32:28,181 --> 00:32:29,580
I'm going to go and check them out.
656
00:32:29,580 --> 00:32:30,973
I'll grab it.
657
00:32:30,973 --> 00:32:32,600
There's a beauty.
658
00:32:32,600 --> 00:32:33,470
Let's check this guy out.
659
00:32:33,470 --> 00:32:35,370
Now look how soft he is, look at that.
660
00:32:41,010 --> 00:32:41,843
Oh mate.
661
00:32:41,843 --> 00:32:42,676
That's (speaks in foreign language).
662
00:32:44,043 --> 00:32:44,933
- It's honey!
663
00:32:49,280 --> 00:32:52,023
See the small figs are
ripe, but they're natural.
664
00:32:53,570 --> 00:32:55,250
There's no chemicals, no nothing.
665
00:32:55,250 --> 00:32:56,083
I tell you.
666
00:33:04,680 --> 00:33:06,423
- You need to be a bit of an acrobat.
667
00:33:12,210 --> 00:33:13,730
Almost everything thing Andonis eats
668
00:33:13,730 --> 00:33:15,370
comes from his small farm.
669
00:33:15,370 --> 00:33:17,410
If he can't grow it or raise it himself,
670
00:33:17,410 --> 00:33:19,050
he swaps with other local producers,
671
00:33:19,050 --> 00:33:21,020
or buys it from neighbours.
672
00:33:21,020 --> 00:33:22,510
It's an environmentally friendly,
673
00:33:22,510 --> 00:33:24,710
paddock to plate culinary lifestyle,
674
00:33:24,710 --> 00:33:26,850
with the freshest and
most flavoursome food
675
00:33:26,850 --> 00:33:27,840
you could imagine.
676
00:33:27,840 --> 00:33:30,352
And let's not forget that beautiful wine!
677
00:33:30,352 --> 00:33:32,769
(calm music)
678
00:33:39,240 --> 00:33:40,073
The following morning,
679
00:33:40,073 --> 00:33:42,000
we left Zakynthos for the second time,
680
00:33:42,000 --> 00:33:44,800
only on this occasion there
would be no coming back.
681
00:33:44,800 --> 00:33:47,000
Our route saw us travelling
along the weathered coastline
682
00:33:47,000 --> 00:33:49,800
of the island, as we made
our way north to Kefalonia.
683
00:33:49,800 --> 00:33:52,060
It's a short but spectacular cruise,
684
00:33:52,060 --> 00:33:54,833
with a couple of spots worth
checking out along the way.
685
00:34:00,270 --> 00:34:02,820
The white cliffs have been
pounded by nature's fury
686
00:34:02,820 --> 00:34:03,833
for countless years.
687
00:34:04,670 --> 00:34:07,300
The result is a dramatic
and rugged coastline,
688
00:34:07,300 --> 00:34:09,460
dotted with caves and arches.
689
00:34:09,460 --> 00:34:12,010
For the most part, the weather
and cruising conditions
690
00:34:12,010 --> 00:34:15,390
are fairly predictable,
and if things do get rough,
691
00:34:15,390 --> 00:34:17,350
you can alter your course
to hide between the islands
692
00:34:17,350 --> 00:34:19,950
on the leeward side
where things are calmer.
693
00:34:19,950 --> 00:34:22,300
Today, we were blessed
with perfect conditions.
694
00:34:23,530 --> 00:34:25,630
We're checking out the Keri caves,
695
00:34:25,630 --> 00:34:28,640
but it's not what I thought it would be.
696
00:34:28,640 --> 00:34:31,560
There's some better caves
further up called the blue caves.
697
00:34:31,560 --> 00:34:33,603
I think they are called
the blue caves anyway.
698
00:34:34,710 --> 00:34:37,790
It's where you can swim
through this crack.
699
00:34:37,790 --> 00:34:38,960
Let's go and check them out!
700
00:34:38,960 --> 00:34:40,560
What I like about these is that,
701
00:34:40,560 --> 00:34:43,110
these caves are being
created into tunnels.
702
00:34:43,110 --> 00:34:44,820
in a thousand years' time
someone is going to be able
703
00:34:44,820 --> 00:34:46,860
to swim through that to other side.
704
00:34:46,860 --> 00:34:47,840
Good luck to them!
705
00:34:51,770 --> 00:34:54,100
I love the nature here on
the west coast of Zakynthos,
706
00:34:54,100 --> 00:34:56,030
because it's so rugged here.
707
00:34:56,030 --> 00:34:59,950
The westerly's that come
through here create massive cave
708
00:34:59,950 --> 00:35:02,410
formations underneath and
over the last thousand years
709
00:35:02,410 --> 00:35:05,680
you can see that along here,
710
00:35:05,680 --> 00:35:08,530
the rock has collapsed above those caves,
711
00:35:08,530 --> 00:35:11,200
and little formations have survived.
712
00:35:11,200 --> 00:35:14,150
And above those formations
that have survived,
713
00:35:14,150 --> 00:35:17,050
birds have come and nested
and they've crapped,
714
00:35:17,050 --> 00:35:21,220
or pooed their little seeds
that they have eaten elsewhere
715
00:35:21,220 --> 00:35:23,100
and those seeds have formed in to the rock
716
00:35:23,100 --> 00:35:25,610
and created little bushes,
all the way along here.
717
00:35:25,610 --> 00:35:27,660
And another little
eco-system is being created.
718
00:35:27,660 --> 00:35:30,160
It's absolutely awesome!
719
00:35:30,160 --> 00:35:31,280
I love it, I love it.
720
00:35:31,280 --> 00:35:32,193
Let's keep going!
721
00:35:50,287 --> 00:35:53,100
The thing about the keri
caves is that there are caves
722
00:35:53,100 --> 00:35:57,440
that go right through some of
these massive rock formations,
723
00:35:57,440 --> 00:35:59,600
and there's a crack you
can see just over there,
724
00:35:59,600 --> 00:36:01,737
we're going to try and swim
through that right now.
725
00:36:04,157 --> 00:36:05,430
Now I'm going to jump in,
726
00:36:05,430 --> 00:36:07,360
I'm actually not going to go first,
727
00:36:07,360 --> 00:36:09,840
camera man is going to go
first to make sure it's okay.
728
00:36:09,840 --> 00:36:11,590
I'm just jumping in for the camera.
729
00:36:13,365 --> 00:36:16,230
(serene music)
730
00:36:16,230 --> 00:36:18,590
Mother Nature has a way of humbling you.
731
00:36:18,590 --> 00:36:20,990
I might construct huge
buildings that tower over
732
00:36:20,990 --> 00:36:23,650
the streets below, but
they're nothing in comparison
733
00:36:23,650 --> 00:36:25,870
to the ever-changing natural
wonders you encounter
734
00:36:25,870 --> 00:36:27,720
throughout the world.
735
00:36:27,720 --> 00:36:29,210
In a thousand years from now,
736
00:36:29,210 --> 00:36:32,000
when my buildings have given
way to new developments,
737
00:36:32,000 --> 00:36:33,510
I like to think that these marvels
738
00:36:33,510 --> 00:36:35,510
will still be amazing people.
739
00:36:35,510 --> 00:36:36,710
Just like they do today.
740
00:36:45,056 --> 00:36:48,223
(upbeat ethnic music)
741
00:36:58,580 --> 00:37:00,760
The transit from Zakynthos to Kefalonia
742
00:37:00,760 --> 00:37:02,740
was only a few hours at sea.
743
00:37:02,740 --> 00:37:05,780
Thanks to the passing scenery,
the time passed quickly,
744
00:37:05,780 --> 00:37:08,480
and before I knew it we
were cruising into port.
745
00:37:08,480 --> 00:37:10,810
You can immediately tell
that it's a busy place,
746
00:37:10,810 --> 00:37:13,370
however being such a large
and mountainous island,
747
00:37:13,370 --> 00:37:15,620
there's plenty of opportunity
to get away from it all,
748
00:37:15,620 --> 00:37:18,470
either along the coast,
or the fertile interior.
749
00:37:18,470 --> 00:37:19,770
We've travelled up the Ionian Sea
750
00:37:19,770 --> 00:37:21,143
from Zakynthos into Kefalonia.
751
00:37:21,143 --> 00:37:23,120
This is Argostoli and the colours here
752
00:37:23,120 --> 00:37:25,520
are absolutely magnificent.
753
00:37:25,520 --> 00:37:26,353
I like Kefalonia.
754
00:37:26,353 --> 00:37:28,480
At my age, this is my place.
755
00:37:28,480 --> 00:37:31,400
Not to say that Zakynthos
is not a good place,
756
00:37:31,400 --> 00:37:32,600
it's probably more for
someone who is a bit
757
00:37:32,600 --> 00:37:34,660
of a night owl and likes the night life.
758
00:37:34,660 --> 00:37:37,803
This place is for nature lovers,
the people are fantastic,
759
00:37:39,140 --> 00:37:40,130
it's a great place to see.
760
00:37:40,130 --> 00:37:43,197
I'm looking forward to
travelling through Kefalonia.
761
00:37:59,560 --> 00:38:00,930
We're in the centre of Argostoli,
762
00:38:00,930 --> 00:38:02,933
which is the capital of Kefalonia.
763
00:38:03,830 --> 00:38:05,460
And I'm talking to Panioti here,
764
00:38:05,460 --> 00:38:07,570
who tells me that we really don't know
765
00:38:07,570 --> 00:38:10,058
where the name comes from,
which is really not Greek.
766
00:38:10,058 --> 00:38:11,370
Because Greeks know where
everything comes from,
767
00:38:11,370 --> 00:38:14,150
they know, they think
that every word has come
768
00:38:14,150 --> 00:38:16,610
from the Greek and they
don't even know here
769
00:38:16,610 --> 00:38:19,283
where the word Argostoli has come from.
770
00:38:23,540 --> 00:38:25,063
- 40,000, just like Zakynthos.
771
00:38:30,315 --> 00:38:31,565
- Bravo, bravo.
772
00:38:32,787 --> 00:38:35,110
One of the most well-known
structures in Argostoli
773
00:38:35,110 --> 00:38:36,570
is the Drapano Bridge.
774
00:38:36,570 --> 00:38:39,010
It's also known as De Bosset Bridge,
775
00:38:39,010 --> 00:38:41,210
named after the Swiss
engineer who built it.
776
00:38:42,120 --> 00:38:45,550
You know, I love the passage of time,
777
00:38:45,550 --> 00:38:47,880
and what it does in technology.
778
00:38:47,880 --> 00:38:52,880
This bridge, this lime stone
bridge was built in 1816.
779
00:38:53,460 --> 00:38:57,800
It took 14 years to build,
to connect Argostoli town
780
00:38:57,800 --> 00:38:59,720
to the mountains over there.
781
00:38:59,720 --> 00:39:04,030
But what's amazing is that
they could have run a road
782
00:39:04,030 --> 00:39:06,940
all the way around here, but they didn't,
783
00:39:06,940 --> 00:39:08,480
they built this bridge.
784
00:39:08,480 --> 00:39:12,260
What's even more special is
that that swamp over there
785
00:39:13,100 --> 00:39:15,890
was that infested with mosquitoes,
786
00:39:15,890 --> 00:39:18,850
that they brought eucalyptus
trees from Australia
787
00:39:18,850 --> 00:39:21,973
to stop the mosquito deluge.
788
00:39:23,240 --> 00:39:24,900
There's a lot to see in this town,
789
00:39:24,900 --> 00:39:27,590
particularly for a guy like
me who loves architecture
790
00:39:27,590 --> 00:39:29,180
and feats of engineering.
791
00:39:29,180 --> 00:39:31,260
And just up the road is a curiosity,
792
00:39:31,260 --> 00:39:33,079
I had to have a look at.
793
00:39:33,079 --> 00:39:36,079
(calm guitar music)
794
00:39:39,590 --> 00:39:43,330
Just two kilometres north
of Argostoli and just across
795
00:39:43,330 --> 00:39:47,290
from Lixouri is this maze of water
796
00:39:47,290 --> 00:39:49,720
running in to the water side.
797
00:39:49,720 --> 00:39:52,200
And it actually runs through
a geological formation
798
00:39:52,200 --> 00:39:55,630
under the earth, some 15
kilometres to the other side
799
00:39:55,630 --> 00:39:58,590
of the island, comes
out in Melissani caves
800
00:39:58,590 --> 00:39:59,940
and some other places.
801
00:39:59,940 --> 00:40:03,380
And the reason they know
that is because in 1963,
802
00:40:03,380 --> 00:40:07,013
they placed 160 pounds
of dye through here,
803
00:40:07,874 --> 00:40:08,707
waited a couple of weeks,
804
00:40:08,707 --> 00:40:10,450
and saw it come out of the other end.
805
00:40:10,450 --> 00:40:13,430
If you can't find this spot, the marker is
806
00:40:13,430 --> 00:40:16,010
that beautiful lighthouse over there.
807
00:40:16,010 --> 00:40:17,150
It's called Agios Theodoros.
808
00:40:17,150 --> 00:40:20,020
It was built in the 1800s by the British,
809
00:40:20,020 --> 00:40:21,990
doesn't look British, the Doric columns,
810
00:40:21,990 --> 00:40:23,820
it looks very, very Greek.
811
00:40:23,820 --> 00:40:26,690
In actual fact it's been
repaired a number of times.
812
00:40:26,690 --> 00:40:28,450
It still works and if
you come here at night
813
00:40:28,450 --> 00:40:31,350
you will see this beautiful
amber light coming from there.
814
00:40:35,600 --> 00:40:37,900
Right behind me, and
across from Argostoli,
815
00:40:37,900 --> 00:40:40,827
is a town called Lixouri
, and the ferry you see,
816
00:40:40,827 --> 00:40:44,523
the car ferry, goes back
and forth all day long,
817
00:40:45,722 --> 00:40:46,555
365 days a year.
818
00:40:46,555 --> 00:40:48,210
It'll cost you 3 euros
819
00:40:48,210 --> 00:40:51,880
for you to go from Argostoli to Lixouri.
820
00:40:51,880 --> 00:40:54,382
And if you want to take your
car, it's an extra euro!
821
00:40:54,382 --> 00:40:56,465
(laughs)
822
00:40:58,450 --> 00:41:00,420
Things brings me to a quick
story about the rivalry
823
00:41:00,420 --> 00:41:01,950
between the two towns.
824
00:41:01,950 --> 00:41:04,853
Back in 1757, the capital
was moved from Lixouri
825
00:41:04,853 --> 00:41:07,080
to Argostoli, because
the latter of the two
826
00:41:07,080 --> 00:41:08,380
had a better port.
827
00:41:08,380 --> 00:41:10,620
Those in Lixouri felt hard done by,
828
00:41:10,620 --> 00:41:12,090
as many of the government services
829
00:41:12,090 --> 00:41:15,490
and therefore money and work,
left the once affluent town.
830
00:41:15,490 --> 00:41:17,560
The rivalry has been
immortalised in paintings,
831
00:41:17,560 --> 00:41:20,453
poems and songs, and
continues still today.
832
00:41:22,910 --> 00:41:26,090
Spiros feeds this turtle regularly.
833
00:41:26,090 --> 00:41:30,920
And like the humans that
come here to the café,
834
00:41:30,920 --> 00:41:32,003
so do the turtles.
835
00:41:33,760 --> 00:41:35,260
That turtle is a good
sized turtle it looks like
836
00:41:35,260 --> 00:41:38,010
it's between 25 and 40 years old.
837
00:41:38,010 --> 00:41:39,383
There's plenty of them around here.
838
00:41:41,790 --> 00:41:43,230
And you'd know as we
spoke about it before,
839
00:41:43,230 --> 00:41:45,820
they nest in Zakynthos.
840
00:41:45,820 --> 00:41:47,620
- Who wouldn't like to swim with them?
841
00:41:47,620 --> 00:41:48,797
- Oh, you'd love to swim
with them, wouldn't ya?
842
00:41:48,797 --> 00:41:49,631
- Ah, sure, sure.
- Eh?
843
00:41:49,631 --> 00:41:51,150
- Sure, sure.
844
00:41:51,150 --> 00:41:51,983
- That's why we come here,
845
00:41:51,983 --> 00:41:53,410
to see things like this, isn't it?
846
00:41:53,410 --> 00:41:54,243
- Absolutely.
847
00:41:54,243 --> 00:41:55,076
- Yeah.
848
00:41:55,076 --> 00:41:55,909
Where are you from?
849
00:41:55,909 --> 00:41:56,742
- Sweden
850
00:41:56,742 --> 00:41:57,575
- Sweden.
851
00:41:57,575 --> 00:41:58,670
You like it here in
Argostoli, in Kefalonia?
852
00:41:58,670 --> 00:41:59,503
- Yes.
853
00:41:59,503 --> 00:42:00,336
- Is this your first time?
854
00:42:00,336 --> 00:42:02,010
- Yes, absolutely.
855
00:42:02,010 --> 00:42:02,843
- Will you come back?
856
00:42:02,843 --> 00:42:06,580
- We had a hard time
driving a car here in the--
857
00:42:06,580 --> 00:42:08,110
- Why is that?
- In the city.
858
00:42:08,110 --> 00:42:10,067
It's very crowded and small roads.
859
00:42:10,067 --> 00:42:11,043
- Yes, of course.
860
00:42:11,043 --> 00:42:12,850
With all the tourism
that happens, doesn't it?
861
00:42:12,850 --> 00:42:15,200
But you've got to live with
those little things, don't you?
862
00:42:15,200 --> 00:42:17,140
- Yeah, absolutely.
- Yeah.
863
00:42:17,140 --> 00:42:19,280
A bit warmer than Sweden isn't it?
864
00:42:19,280 --> 00:42:20,113
- A bit!
865
00:42:20,113 --> 00:42:21,280
- A bit warmer, yeah.
866
00:42:21,280 --> 00:42:23,550
After just a handful
of hours in Kefalonia,
867
00:42:23,550 --> 00:42:24,940
I can already tell that
this is going to be
868
00:42:24,940 --> 00:42:26,350
a fantastic week.
869
00:42:26,350 --> 00:42:28,157
It's the biggest island in
the Ionian and spread around
870
00:42:28,157 --> 00:42:30,500
the coast and interior are lots of towns
871
00:42:30,500 --> 00:42:33,520
and natural wonders that
I can't wait to explore.
872
00:42:33,520 --> 00:42:35,640
From Argostoli you can see
that it's very different
873
00:42:35,640 --> 00:42:37,657
from what I've encountered so far.
874
00:42:37,657 --> 00:42:38,840
The mountains tower in the distance
875
00:42:38,840 --> 00:42:41,300
and at the lower altitudes
the rich soil means
876
00:42:41,300 --> 00:42:44,840
plants thrive, creating a
vibrant green that contrasts
877
00:42:44,840 --> 00:42:46,660
with the blue of the surrounding sea.
878
00:42:46,660 --> 00:42:48,830
It's a diverse landscape
that's been inhabited
879
00:42:48,830 --> 00:42:50,400
for over 3,000 years,
880
00:42:50,400 --> 00:42:52,740
and with that comes a fascinating history.
881
00:42:52,740 --> 00:42:56,360
Next episode my time
on Kefalonia continues.
882
00:42:56,360 --> 00:42:58,840
I'm going to explore the
stunning Melissani Lake,
883
00:42:58,840 --> 00:43:00,910
a place of both myth and beauty.
884
00:43:00,910 --> 00:43:03,420
There's only a few such
formations found on the planet,
885
00:43:03,420 --> 00:43:06,060
and it's one of the more
popular sites for tourists.
886
00:43:06,060 --> 00:43:08,090
I'm also going to meet
a couple of the locals,
887
00:43:08,090 --> 00:43:11,370
who spend their days at sea,
forging a living as fishermen.
888
00:43:11,370 --> 00:43:14,290
It's an occupation that has
existed as long as humans have
889
00:43:14,290 --> 00:43:15,920
inhabited these islands.
890
00:43:15,920 --> 00:43:17,510
But as fish stocks decline,
891
00:43:17,510 --> 00:43:20,520
who knows how much longer
this way of life will last.
892
00:43:20,520 --> 00:43:22,840
Plus, I'll be catching up
with a friend and trying
893
00:43:22,840 --> 00:43:24,310
my hand as a beekeeper,
894
00:43:24,310 --> 00:43:25,990
as well as visiting one
of the famed wineries
895
00:43:25,990 --> 00:43:27,383
that produces the famous Robola,
896
00:43:27,383 --> 00:43:29,257
that Kefalonia is known for.
897
00:43:30,260 --> 00:43:32,300
By now I hope you've come to
realise that there's one thing
898
00:43:32,300 --> 00:43:34,490
you can rely on if you
ever come to Greece,
899
00:43:34,490 --> 00:43:36,690
and that's you can expect the unexpected.
900
00:43:36,690 --> 00:43:38,360
You never know what you'll find,
901
00:43:38,360 --> 00:43:39,930
and as much as you can plan things,
902
00:43:39,930 --> 00:43:42,480
no doubt you'll be surprised
with what else you'll discover.
903
00:43:42,480 --> 00:43:44,000
By all means, have an itinerary.
904
00:43:44,000 --> 00:43:46,360
But take my advice when I tell
you to leave some free time
905
00:43:46,360 --> 00:43:47,906
to see what unfolds.
906
00:43:47,906 --> 00:43:51,073
(upbeat ethnic music)
907
00:44:02,311 --> 00:44:04,811
(loud whoosh)
70320