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(uplifting music)
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(calm music)
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- From the bustling streets of Athens
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and the historic port
of Hydra, to the beaches
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of Zakinthos and the villages of Kythera,
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our journey over the
coming weeks spans many
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of the Ionian islands, some well-known,
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others that few ever get to visit.
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But before heading off,
you probably wanna know
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a little bit about me.
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My story starts as a boy growing up
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in the inner suburbs of Sydney.
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Like a lot of Greeks early last century,
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my parents moved overseas to
find a better life abroad.
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They arrived with very little
and worked extremely hard
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to give my sisters and
I a loving upbringing.
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They also made me believe that
if I too worked hard enough,
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I could achieve anything.
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54 years later, I've built
a successful business,
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and that has enabled me to do
things I once only dreamed of.
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One of those dreams was to step foot
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on all 227 inhabited Greek
Islands, and I'm gonna take
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a big chunk out of that
in this first series.
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So far I've taken you
to some of the bigger
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and more popular Aegean
Islands in the Saronic Gulf,
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including Spetses, and
most recently, Hydra.
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It's been an exciting journey.
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And what is special about
Ydraia, there are no buses,
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no cars, no taxis, no
motorbikes, no bicycles.
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My travels through Greece
have been full of history,
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great food, and plenty
of laughs along the way.
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Not to mention, spectacular scenery.
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And there's plenty more to come.
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(fireworks crackling)
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In this episode I'm headed to Nafplion,
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a place that's rich in
history, from ancient times,
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right up to the modern era.
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My plan is to tell the region's
story by visiting the ruins,
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meeting the locals, and
taking in the natural wonders.
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You'll be amazed at just
how much this part of Greece
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has to offer.
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I'm also headed to
Monemvasia, with a side trip
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to Limin Ieraka along the
way, so in the coming hour,
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you can expect to see a whole lot!
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(smooth music)
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After my short visit to Hydra,
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we cruised along the
Peloponnese coast deep into
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the Argolic Gulf, to the
seaport town of Nafplion.
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The journey there took us
past stunning coastal scenery
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with dry, rocky countryside
giving way to a clear blue sea.
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The landscape seemed uninhabited,
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with only the occasional
small town, ancient ruin,
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or glowing, white church
punctuating the scene,
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and a few windmills.
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It gave me some time to switch off, relax,
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and just take in this incredible backdrop.
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Travelling through areas like this,
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you get an appreciation of how
sparse much of Greece can be.
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Of the 11 million people
living in the country,
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only about two million
inhabit the Peloponnese
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and Aegean islands, and
mostly in urban areas.
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Out here, there's little
in the way of work,
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so people have left the villages and towns
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that once dotted the landscape and moved
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to the bigger cities or more
established settlements,
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one of which was our next destination.
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From Ydraia we've travelled
out of the Saronic Gulf
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into the Argolic Gulf,
into the northern end
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of the Argolic Gulf, a
town called Napflion.
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Napflion was actually the
first capital city of Greece,
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post 1821 revolution.
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Special place, fortresses, archaeology,
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antiquity, it's fantastic.
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Nafplion is a beautiful
town that's long been
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an important settlement.
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Since ancient times, there
have been people living here,
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and throughout Greece's history,
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various powers have occupied it.
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The town's story is told by this rich mix
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of architectural influences.
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From the walls of the Acronauplia,
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built in pre-classical
times, through the era
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of Byzantine and Frankish rule,
to the arrival of the Turks
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in 1540, and the brief
period of Venetian control,
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each has left their mark
on this colourful town.
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One of the things you'll
immediately notice
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is that the shopping here is fantastic.
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A lot of tourist towns have
the same international stores
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and outlets that you quickly get bored of.
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Here though, while you've got
a patch of the usual suspects,
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there's also plenty of unique local brands
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to arouse your interest.
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Napflion has some really cool shops,
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but the common denominator
is lots of coffee shops
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and bars, very Greek.
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Does anyone work around here?
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I just can't get over the amount of people
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that are sitting in shops
on a Tuesday afternoon!
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It's a pretty relaxed
lifestyle in the Greek Islands,
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but to be honest, the
majority of the people
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here are tourists, and who
doesn't enjoy sitting in a cafe,
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drinking coffee and doing
a little people watching?
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It's the All-Seeing Eye, from
the Greek Orthodox church.
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Otherwise known as the Eye of Providence,
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the All-Seeing Eye of God is
a religious symbol adopted
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by various faiths the world over.
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You'll find it in places
of worship, in art,
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and even on the US $1 bill.
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It represents the idea that
God is watching over humanity
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and in a deeply religious
place like Greece,
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you'll find this and other
church icons on everything
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from clothing and decor to jewellery.
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Speaking of jewellery, this
place has plenty of options.
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I might have to buy something for Helen.
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Actually, I've learned over
the years that I should leave
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that stuff to her.
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My taste is just a little different.
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Nafplion is known for its kompoloi shops,
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it's actually got a kompoloi museum,
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kompoloi in English is a worry bead.
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We might have a look at some.
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This is a bone one.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Show me how you do it, yes.
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(both speaking in foreign language)
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Yes.
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- Another way.
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- Ah, that's the way I see them do it.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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That's the way they do it in the cafe.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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- You grip tight this part from inside.
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And you turn it like this.
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- I'll get there!
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- Exactly, you need a little bit practise.
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- I don't know about this.
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You're very good at it!
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- Yes, I know, it's my job.
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- Worry beads are made of
everything from plastic
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and coral through to gem-quality amber.
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They range in price from
five euro to more than 500,
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with the more expensive
ones being a symbol
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of power or prestige.
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They also look similar to prayer
beads from other cultures,
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but they actually have
no religious purpose.
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Most people use them for relaxation
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or to help with concentration,
so I might buy a stack
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of them for friends and family.
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Apparently, I have a
tendency to cause anxiety
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in the people around me.
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Hard to believe, I know.
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I think I'm quite a relaxed guy.
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(relaxed music)
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(uplifting music)
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I'm here on the northwestern
corner of Palamidis Fortress.
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It's 999 steps to get up here.
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The place is absolutely massive.
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There's fortifications wherever you look.
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I better get a move on.
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(thoughtful music)
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Palamidis Fortress was actually
built in the early 1700s
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by the Vanecians.
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It was built between
1711 and 1714 and just
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as they were completing
it, the Ottomans invaded
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and took Palamadis in 1715.
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And you can actually see
where the Ottoman's added
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to the fortifications, the
lower bit is the Vanecians,
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and that higher bit which is more Roman,
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and you can see those
turrets, very Ottoman.
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Palimidi Fortress overlooks the town
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and is a dominant feature on the skyline.
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For those living below, looking up at
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that heavy fortification would have given
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them a sense of protection.
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It would have been an imposing
sight for any invading force.
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This place is amazing, wherever
you walk, there's walls,
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and some bloody high ones too.
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There are eight bastions in Palamidis.
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We're gonna go and have a
look at one of the good ones.
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But here in front of me,
you can see the wing line.
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It's a wing line of Venice, this tells you
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that it's Venetian.
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You'll see a lot of those in
St. Mark's square in Venice.
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This is the Agios Andreas
bastion, named by the Greeks.
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It had a different name for the Turks
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and a different name for the Venetians,
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for all eight bastions for that matter.
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But this is where Kolokotronis,
the great Greek general,
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the saviour of the 1821
revolution was jailed
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for several years, very solemn place.
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(slow inspirational music)
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Ranked amongst the most prominent figures
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in Greece's War of Independence,
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General Theodoros Kolokotronis
lead the Greek forces
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in the Peloponnese.
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While Admirals Miaoulia
and Bouboulina were engaged
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in naval conflicts further down the coast,
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Kolokotronis rallied
the people behind him,
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and formed an army from local
mountain folk and militia.
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The Turks had possession of this fort
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for over 100 years until 1822.
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In November of that year,
General Staikopoulos
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and 350 Greek crack troops
stormed Palamidis Fortress
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and took the Turkish garrison.
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And for the next 15 years, Napflion was
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the capital of Greece.
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You know, this is my second
time to Palamidis Fortress,
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second time for my family as well,
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and they want to come again
because Palamidis Fortress,
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you don't have to be a historian,
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you don't have to love Greece, Venice,
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00:10:30,760 --> 00:10:33,060
or Turkey for that
matter, there's something
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for everybody here.
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It's a kid's playground.
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My son has been climbing the
walls and playing around.
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If you like walking, it's good for a walk,
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and it's a photographer's paradise.
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I love this place.
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Places like Palamidis
survive as visual reminders
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00:11:02,470 --> 00:11:04,660
of times gone by, but
it's the responsibility
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of people like you and I
to tell younger generations
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what happened here, and the
stories of the great people
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that have walked inside these walls.
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It's through sharing this knowledge
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00:11:13,200 --> 00:11:15,500
that we show appreciation
for our forebears
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00:11:15,500 --> 00:11:17,033
and keep their memory alive.
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Apart from its history,
Nafplion and its inland fertile
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plains are well known
for their agriculture,
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specifically the oranges.
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They say they're the best in Greece!
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This calls for a Greek
orange pie, a Portokalopita,
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now that's a mouthful.
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We have these beautiful Napflion oranges.
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Now, they don't look like
they've been bought from a shop.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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00:11:56,165 --> 00:11:57,582
And what have we got over here, Kyriako?
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00:11:57,582 --> 00:11:58,680
(speaking in foreign language)
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This is filo pastry, but
it looks like you've--
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00:12:00,992 --> 00:12:02,760
(speaking in foreign language)
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He's left it out there for
a little while to dry up
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00:12:05,410 --> 00:12:06,350
and it's nice and crunchy.
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00:12:06,350 --> 00:12:07,969
So we need that stuff, okay.
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00:12:07,969 --> 00:12:09,900
(speaking in foreign language)
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Everything's going inside.
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00:12:12,109 --> 00:12:16,026
(speaking in foreign language)
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They're very sweet
apparently at the moment,
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because this is the time for oranges.
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After adding a couple of
sliced, whole oranges,
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00:12:22,440 --> 00:12:26,270
we put 750 grammes of sugar,
250 mill of olive oil,
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00:12:26,270 --> 00:12:29,080
a teaspoon of baking soda,
some milk, and four eggs
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00:12:29,080 --> 00:12:30,204
into the blender.
252
00:12:30,204 --> 00:12:34,121
(speaking in foreign language)
253
00:12:36,135 --> 00:12:38,230
(both laughing)
254
00:12:38,230 --> 00:12:40,360
You can tell by his girth
that Kyriako is a man
255
00:12:40,360 --> 00:12:41,790
that loves his food.
256
00:12:41,790 --> 00:12:44,240
He's an amazing chef and half
the reason why every time
257
00:12:44,240 --> 00:12:47,080
I leave Greece, I'm 10 kilos overweight.
258
00:12:47,080 --> 00:12:48,940
You know what's amazing Kyriako,
259
00:12:48,940 --> 00:12:52,480
whenever we cook this stuff,
my wife Helen never comes.
260
00:12:52,480 --> 00:12:54,380
I was expecting her to
learn something from this,
261
00:12:54,380 --> 00:12:56,417
but she's out shopping.
262
00:12:56,417 --> 00:12:58,470
(speaking in foreign language)
263
00:12:58,470 --> 00:13:01,570
I can see Rhett is licking
his lips over there.
264
00:13:01,570 --> 00:13:03,193
Will there be enough for you, Rhett?
265
00:13:03,193 --> 00:13:04,026
I don't know.
266
00:13:04,026 --> 00:13:04,859
- I don't think so.
267
00:13:04,859 --> 00:13:06,560
(both laughing)
268
00:13:06,560 --> 00:13:07,393
- Fantastic, look at that.
269
00:13:07,393 --> 00:13:09,890
Look at the colour, look at the texture!
270
00:13:09,890 --> 00:13:11,954
This is it, this is simple,
very simple, Kyriako.
271
00:13:11,954 --> 00:13:13,885
(speaking in foreign language)
272
00:13:13,885 --> 00:13:14,900
So if you have to make it quickly,
273
00:13:14,900 --> 00:13:17,650
this is a perfect pie
to make, a sweet pie.
274
00:13:17,650 --> 00:13:20,380
(cheerful music)
275
00:13:20,380 --> 00:13:22,350
Look at it, you see the
orange peel in there?
276
00:13:22,350 --> 00:13:23,440
It's fantastic.
277
00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:28,144
We're going to put that in
the oven now, at 160 degrees.
278
00:13:28,144 --> 00:13:30,110
(speaking in foreign language)
279
00:13:30,110 --> 00:13:31,840
For half an hour, 30 minutes.
280
00:13:31,840 --> 00:13:34,510
The syrup is what takes this
delicacy to the next level.
281
00:13:34,510 --> 00:13:37,260
It's basically just 750
grammes of sugar dissolved
282
00:13:37,260 --> 00:13:39,260
in water and boiled to reduce a little.
283
00:13:39,260 --> 00:13:41,562
Then you simply add a bit
of fresh orange juice.
284
00:13:41,562 --> 00:13:42,820
(speaking in foreign language)
285
00:13:42,820 --> 00:13:43,853
5 oranges.
286
00:13:47,070 --> 00:13:48,320
So we're gonna let that boil now.
287
00:13:48,320 --> 00:13:50,590
We brought the temperature
down, now we're going
288
00:13:50,590 --> 00:13:53,448
to bring the temperature
back up so that it boils.
289
00:13:53,448 --> 00:13:54,281
(speaking in foreign language)
290
00:13:54,281 --> 00:13:55,360
Very quickly, very quickly.
291
00:13:55,360 --> 00:13:56,660
You better come in and have a look.
292
00:13:56,660 --> 00:13:59,133
Wow, that looks awesome.
293
00:13:59,133 --> 00:14:00,992
That's ready, so he's
turned the heat down now.
294
00:14:00,992 --> 00:14:02,630
(speaking in foreign language)
295
00:14:02,630 --> 00:14:04,090
Now that's got to cool.
296
00:14:04,090 --> 00:14:06,100
30 minutes later and voila!
297
00:14:06,100 --> 00:14:08,496
Or as Greeks would say, na to!
298
00:14:08,496 --> 00:14:12,413
(speaking in foreign language)
299
00:14:14,110 --> 00:14:18,110
The syrup has cooled down now
and we're gonna put it on top.
300
00:14:18,110 --> 00:14:19,850
The waiting game is the hardest part.
301
00:14:19,850 --> 00:14:22,300
It was 10 minutes of
sitting in anticipation
302
00:14:22,300 --> 00:14:23,860
as the syrup soaked in.
303
00:14:23,860 --> 00:14:27,240
Mate, I've never seen
anything like this before.
304
00:14:29,509 --> 00:14:33,155
(speaking in foreign language)
305
00:14:33,155 --> 00:14:33,988
Let's have a look.
306
00:14:33,988 --> 00:14:36,070
It's soaked it all up!
307
00:14:36,070 --> 00:14:38,600
So, now we have to test it.
308
00:14:38,600 --> 00:14:41,210
And I know in the bleachers over there,
309
00:14:41,210 --> 00:14:42,917
it's getting a bit busier now.
310
00:14:43,770 --> 00:14:45,430
It was Rhett originally but now
311
00:14:45,430 --> 00:14:47,820
we have captain Rhett and Andreas.
312
00:14:47,820 --> 00:14:49,618
So what are we gonna do?
313
00:14:49,618 --> 00:14:53,226
(speaking in foreign language)
314
00:14:53,226 --> 00:14:56,040
That looks absolutely sensational!
315
00:15:02,500 --> 00:15:04,550
Just put that down there,
just grab a little bit
316
00:15:04,550 --> 00:15:06,100
of chocolate ice cream as well.
317
00:15:17,486 --> 00:15:21,403
(speaking in foreign language)
318
00:15:24,120 --> 00:15:27,803
It's not a, oh, straight
away, captains into it!
319
00:15:34,860 --> 00:15:38,777
(speaking in foreign language)
320
00:15:44,060 --> 00:15:46,698
Kyriako, you know what this deserves.
321
00:15:46,698 --> 00:15:48,060
(speaking in foreign language)
322
00:15:48,060 --> 00:15:50,590
This deserves the hug!
323
00:15:50,590 --> 00:15:51,423
- Thank you.
324
00:15:53,940 --> 00:15:57,310
- He's done an awesome job, again.
325
00:15:57,310 --> 00:15:58,950
Kyriako is never gonna leave me.
326
00:15:58,950 --> 00:16:01,010
You're gonna stay with me for life, okay?
327
00:16:01,010 --> 00:16:03,580
Thank you, thank you Kyriako.
328
00:16:03,580 --> 00:16:06,293
I hope you guys are
enjoying it over there.
329
00:16:06,293 --> 00:16:07,938
- Beautiful.
- Very nice!
330
00:16:07,938 --> 00:16:09,860
- Fantastic!
- Fantastic.
331
00:16:11,130 --> 00:16:14,600
Kyriako was adamant we had
to use vanilla ice cream.
332
00:16:14,600 --> 00:16:17,980
I insisted on chocolate,
and judging by the response,
333
00:16:17,980 --> 00:16:18,813
I was right.
334
00:16:26,242 --> 00:16:29,075
(uplifting music)
335
00:16:50,490 --> 00:16:53,620
We've just come up from
Napflion up to Profitis Ilias,
336
00:16:53,620 --> 00:16:55,000
which is at the top of this mountain,
337
00:16:55,000 --> 00:16:59,100
and you can see all the way
through to the Argolic Gulf,
338
00:16:59,100 --> 00:17:01,710
down to Argos, through all of these plains
339
00:17:01,710 --> 00:17:03,970
of the Peloponnese here,
this side of the Peloponnese.
340
00:17:03,970 --> 00:17:05,180
You can see all of these orange groves,
341
00:17:05,180 --> 00:17:08,980
but 2,500 years ago there
was this great rivalry
342
00:17:08,980 --> 00:17:12,810
between Argos and Sparta behind me.
343
00:17:12,810 --> 00:17:14,260
Right through this valley there
344
00:17:14,260 --> 00:17:17,070
are several archaeological sites.
345
00:17:17,070 --> 00:17:19,650
Tombs for kings, archaeological digs
346
00:17:19,650 --> 00:17:22,020
that are happening everywhere
if you look around.
347
00:17:22,020 --> 00:17:24,362
It's a treasure trove of history here.
348
00:17:24,362 --> 00:17:26,770
(calm music)
349
00:17:26,770 --> 00:17:28,890
These fertile plains being between the sea
350
00:17:28,890 --> 00:17:32,200
and mountains made this a
very strategic location,
351
00:17:32,200 --> 00:17:35,150
which is why it's been a seat
of power since ancient times.
352
00:17:36,520 --> 00:17:38,570
Greece was a fractured
state during the early part
353
00:17:38,570 --> 00:17:40,080
of the Classical Period.
354
00:17:40,080 --> 00:17:42,940
Argos, Sparta, and
Athens were all competing
355
00:17:42,940 --> 00:17:44,520
for dominance in the region.
356
00:17:44,520 --> 00:17:48,360
Then in 499 BC the Persian wars started.
357
00:17:48,360 --> 00:17:50,320
While much of the country
began unifying against
358
00:17:50,320 --> 00:17:53,120
this common enemy, Argos remained neutral,
359
00:17:53,120 --> 00:17:56,250
consequently diminishing
its influence in Greece.
360
00:17:56,250 --> 00:17:59,350
As time went by, other
powers occupied the area,
361
00:17:59,350 --> 00:18:01,540
all the while it has been
somewhat of a breadbasket
362
00:18:01,540 --> 00:18:02,390
for this country.
363
00:18:15,750 --> 00:18:17,787
You walk through the town
of Argos and you think
364
00:18:17,787 --> 00:18:19,940
it's a pretty standard Greek town.
365
00:18:19,940 --> 00:18:22,160
Good Greek coffee, koulouria awesome,
366
00:18:22,160 --> 00:18:25,430
traffic's pretty much the
same as everywhere else,
367
00:18:25,430 --> 00:18:29,640
but Argos itself today is not
what is special about Argos.
368
00:18:29,640 --> 00:18:33,430
It's what's below and
around Argos that's special.
369
00:18:33,430 --> 00:18:37,210
It's the longest
continually-inhabited city in Greece
370
00:18:37,210 --> 00:18:39,760
and one of the top five of the world!
371
00:18:39,760 --> 00:18:41,590
Let's go and have a look
at what's really special.
372
00:18:41,590 --> 00:18:43,140
Have a look up there right now!
373
00:18:46,490 --> 00:18:49,480
Having been inhabited
for some 7,000 years,
374
00:18:49,480 --> 00:18:51,780
there are loads of sights
and monuments here,
375
00:18:51,780 --> 00:18:53,290
dating back to antiquity.
376
00:18:53,290 --> 00:18:55,700
Amongst countless other
things, the city is famed
377
00:18:55,700 --> 00:18:57,600
for having been the home of Agamemnon,
378
00:18:57,600 --> 00:19:00,140
who in Greek mythology led
the Archaeans against the city
379
00:19:00,140 --> 00:19:01,470
of Troy in the Trojan war.
380
00:19:01,470 --> 00:19:04,692
You know, the story with
the big wooden horse.
381
00:19:04,692 --> 00:19:05,960
Well the winners of
that war came from here.
382
00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:08,260
(speaking in foreign language)
383
00:19:08,260 --> 00:19:10,363
The Greek volleyball team, the girls.
384
00:19:12,373 --> 00:19:13,206
They're here for something,
I don't know what
385
00:19:13,206 --> 00:19:15,270
they're here for, but they're
her for a special moment.
386
00:19:15,270 --> 00:19:16,103
Some man's congratulating them 'cause
387
00:19:16,103 --> 00:19:18,770
they're here to celebrate something.
388
00:19:18,770 --> 00:19:21,940
I didn't understand a word he
said, to be honest with you.
389
00:19:21,940 --> 00:19:24,320
But he congratulated me
on speaking, my Greek,
390
00:19:24,320 --> 00:19:25,743
even though it's really bad.
391
00:19:27,200 --> 00:19:29,850
Despite the fascinating
history of the area,
392
00:19:29,850 --> 00:19:33,160
Argos isn't a hugely
popular tourist destination.
393
00:19:33,160 --> 00:19:35,681
It's a little out of the way,
but if you visit Nafplion
394
00:19:35,681 --> 00:19:37,640
and want to see an authentic Greek town,
395
00:19:37,640 --> 00:19:40,910
then take the short taxi ride,
grab a coffee and a koulouri,
396
00:19:40,910 --> 00:19:42,860
and pay Larissa Fort a visit.
397
00:19:42,860 --> 00:19:46,100
We're here in the southeastern
foothills of Larissa.
398
00:19:46,100 --> 00:19:47,480
Primitive Argos.
399
00:19:47,480 --> 00:19:49,540
What you're about to
see is really special,
400
00:19:49,540 --> 00:19:51,550
carved out of the side of a mountain,
401
00:19:51,550 --> 00:19:52,756
take a guess what it is.
402
00:19:52,756 --> 00:19:55,589
(inspiring music)
403
00:19:59,320 --> 00:20:00,720
Wow.
404
00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:02,620
This is absolutely massive.
405
00:20:02,620 --> 00:20:04,680
Look at the height of it!
406
00:20:07,990 --> 00:20:10,270
This theatre held 20,000 people.
407
00:20:10,270 --> 00:20:11,420
It's up there with Epidavros.
408
00:20:11,420 --> 00:20:13,830
It's probably the poor
cousin of Epidavros because
409
00:20:13,830 --> 00:20:16,640
the Epidavros is probably
in probably the best nick
410
00:20:16,640 --> 00:20:18,330
for a theatre in the world.
411
00:20:18,330 --> 00:20:20,800
But for me, this is a special one.
412
00:20:20,800 --> 00:20:22,480
Carved out of the mountain.
413
00:20:22,480 --> 00:20:25,520
Covered for 1,400 years
before they found it.
414
00:20:25,520 --> 00:20:26,640
Let's go and have a
closer look and I'll tell
415
00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:27,490
you all about it.
416
00:20:32,720 --> 00:20:36,080
They've uncovered it and
nothing has been done to it.
417
00:20:36,080 --> 00:20:39,750
This was built in 250 BC
in the Hellenistic period.
418
00:20:39,750 --> 00:20:43,120
And it was considered such a good theatre
419
00:20:43,120 --> 00:20:45,810
that when Hadrian came around in 100 AD,
420
00:20:45,810 --> 00:20:47,360
he did some work on it as well.
421
00:20:49,210 --> 00:20:50,043
Wow.
422
00:20:51,210 --> 00:20:53,060
The Roman Emperor Hadrian
visited the theatre
423
00:20:53,060 --> 00:20:54,870
on many occasions.
424
00:20:54,870 --> 00:20:57,120
He loved it so much that
amongst other things,
425
00:20:57,120 --> 00:21:00,103
he commissioned the building
of this enormous bath complex.
426
00:21:14,240 --> 00:21:18,310
You know, a closer look at
the theatre and you realise
427
00:21:18,310 --> 00:21:22,490
that nature has done
her job through erosion
428
00:21:23,380 --> 00:21:25,790
and you almost feel like
covering it up again
429
00:21:25,790 --> 00:21:29,590
for 1,000 years for people in the future.
430
00:21:32,810 --> 00:21:35,430
In a moment of silence, I
stopped to take in the view.
431
00:21:35,430 --> 00:21:37,840
Looking at the theatre and
baths I couldn't help but think
432
00:21:37,840 --> 00:21:39,890
of the countless significant
people from history
433
00:21:39,890 --> 00:21:41,740
that would've done the same.
434
00:21:41,740 --> 00:21:43,280
Soaking up the atmosphere made me wonder
435
00:21:43,280 --> 00:21:45,750
that just maybe in a former
life, I could have sat
436
00:21:45,750 --> 00:21:47,950
and watched a performance
in this very seat.
437
00:21:53,170 --> 00:21:55,160
Amongst the numerous archaeological sites
438
00:21:55,160 --> 00:21:58,320
in the plains and hills of
Argos are a number of tombs,
439
00:21:58,320 --> 00:21:59,830
but these are unlike most others
440
00:21:59,830 --> 00:22:01,520
you'll come across in Greece.
441
00:22:01,520 --> 00:22:04,400
In fact, they're so unique
that despite a lot of research,
442
00:22:04,400 --> 00:22:05,750
little is known about them.
443
00:22:07,140 --> 00:22:09,400
You know, I've been
construction all of my life,
444
00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:12,163
and I love wonderful structures.
445
00:22:13,536 --> 00:22:17,300
I've been really looking forward to seeing
446
00:22:17,300 --> 00:22:18,850
what we're about to see now.
447
00:22:23,110 --> 00:22:25,400
If I mentioned pyramids, the first thing
448
00:22:25,400 --> 00:22:27,160
you'll think of is Egypt.
449
00:22:27,160 --> 00:22:29,130
Well, many Greeks say this one pre-dates
450
00:22:29,130 --> 00:22:30,810
the pyramids of Giza.
451
00:22:30,810 --> 00:22:33,610
It might not be as grand
as theirs, and to be honest
452
00:22:33,610 --> 00:22:36,140
is a little underwhelming
in terms of its size,
453
00:22:36,140 --> 00:22:38,910
but what makes the pyramid
of Hellinikon so interesting
454
00:22:38,910 --> 00:22:40,403
is the story behind it.
455
00:22:44,902 --> 00:22:48,740
Apart from the obvious
idea that this was a tomb,
456
00:22:48,740 --> 00:22:50,790
some 20th century archaeologists believe
457
00:22:50,790 --> 00:22:55,790
that it could have been a place
of fortification or worship.
458
00:22:58,920 --> 00:23:00,253
There's lots of theories.
459
00:23:02,050 --> 00:23:06,730
There's even a theory that
the first battle with shields
460
00:23:06,730 --> 00:23:09,990
was fought around here
in the Peloponnesian wars
461
00:23:09,990 --> 00:23:13,280
and prior to that, and that
this was a tomb for the soldiers
462
00:23:13,280 --> 00:23:14,770
that fought in that war.
463
00:23:14,770 --> 00:23:18,030
A lot of ideas, but no
one's really working on it.
464
00:23:18,030 --> 00:23:21,120
It's bare and it's such
a wonderful structure.
465
00:23:21,120 --> 00:23:23,350
Sad, but maybe I might go home
466
00:23:23,350 --> 00:23:24,900
and start working on it myself.
467
00:23:28,150 --> 00:23:30,780
Like a lot of things in Greece,
there's a certain amount
468
00:23:30,780 --> 00:23:33,870
of myth and legend behind
the stories you hear.
469
00:23:33,870 --> 00:23:35,530
We're a passionate lot and sometimes
470
00:23:35,530 --> 00:23:38,700
the truth gets stretched a
touch, but after hundreds
471
00:23:38,700 --> 00:23:40,690
of years of the same story being told,
472
00:23:40,690 --> 00:23:43,540
we trust our archaeologists'
investigations
473
00:23:43,540 --> 00:23:44,920
will clear up the blur created
474
00:23:44,920 --> 00:23:47,090
by these inspirational stories.
475
00:23:47,090 --> 00:23:52,090
You know, when I get home,
some of my Egyptian mates,
476
00:23:52,700 --> 00:23:54,940
one of them is an engineer,
is probably going to give me
477
00:23:54,940 --> 00:23:57,150
a hard time about our pyramids.
478
00:23:57,150 --> 00:24:00,270
Because their pyramids, Egyptian pyramids,
479
00:24:00,270 --> 00:24:03,113
you can stick a knife in between the gaps.
480
00:24:03,950 --> 00:24:07,230
Ours aren't exactly the best
structures in the world.
481
00:24:07,230 --> 00:24:10,370
But big difference
though, they took 50 years
482
00:24:10,370 --> 00:24:13,214
to build theirs with 10,000 slaves.
483
00:24:13,214 --> 00:24:15,010
(upbeat music)
484
00:24:15,010 --> 00:24:17,663
We did it in half the time with free men.
485
00:24:19,020 --> 00:24:19,870
Take that, Tarek.
486
00:24:24,180 --> 00:24:25,690
One of the only mentions of Greek pyramids
487
00:24:25,690 --> 00:24:28,970
in early writing comes from
the Greek geographer Pausanias.
488
00:24:28,970 --> 00:24:30,810
He visited the area
some time in the middle
489
00:24:30,810 --> 00:24:32,083
of the second century AD.
490
00:24:32,920 --> 00:24:35,690
He mentions seeing pyramids
as he passed through,
491
00:24:35,690 --> 00:24:38,650
not this particular one,
but similar structures,
492
00:24:38,650 --> 00:24:40,610
and that carved on the sides were reliefs
493
00:24:40,610 --> 00:24:42,350
that looked like shields.
494
00:24:42,350 --> 00:24:44,620
He tells of a story that this
was the site of a great battle
495
00:24:44,620 --> 00:24:46,560
for the throne between two brothers.
496
00:24:46,560 --> 00:24:49,580
The fight ended in a draw
and subsequently the pyramids
497
00:24:49,580 --> 00:24:51,550
were built as a tomb for the dead.
498
00:24:51,550 --> 00:24:52,750
Now that's a cool story!
499
00:24:53,980 --> 00:24:55,880
The story of Greece has
captured the imagination
500
00:24:55,880 --> 00:25:00,080
of scholars, historians, artists,
and poets since antiquity.
501
00:25:00,080 --> 00:25:02,690
Today, it continues to inspire
and be a source of wonder
502
00:25:02,690 --> 00:25:04,163
for people the world over.
503
00:25:05,969 --> 00:25:08,640
No matter how many times I
visit, I'm always left in awe
504
00:25:08,640 --> 00:25:11,070
of what I discover, and
I'm constantly drawn back
505
00:25:11,070 --> 00:25:12,260
to search for more.
506
00:25:29,329 --> 00:25:32,162
(uplifting music)
507
00:25:46,790 --> 00:25:51,790
You know, it's not a good
idea to swim in ports.
508
00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:55,187
It's dangerous first of all,
but sometimes they let out
509
00:25:55,187 --> 00:25:58,070
a little bit of the water out of boats
510
00:25:58,070 --> 00:26:00,583
that you don't really
wanna be swimming around.
511
00:26:02,410 --> 00:26:06,270
But quite often if you just
travel 500 metres around
512
00:26:06,270 --> 00:26:09,450
the corner the water is crystal
clear and it's beautiful.
513
00:26:09,450 --> 00:26:10,283
Just like here!
514
00:26:11,550 --> 00:26:14,370
There's that little rock pool over there.
515
00:26:14,370 --> 00:26:16,180
Helen will be here in about half an hour,
516
00:26:16,180 --> 00:26:17,380
we'll probably miss her.
517
00:26:18,790 --> 00:26:20,700
One of the best things
about being an early riser
518
00:26:20,700 --> 00:26:23,520
is that I often get to see
places well before the tourists
519
00:26:23,520 --> 00:26:24,353
and crowds arrive.
520
00:26:24,353 --> 00:26:27,540
It gives you an entirely
different appreciation for things.
521
00:26:27,540 --> 00:26:28,373
Sensational.
522
00:26:28,373 --> 00:26:29,690
It means you can move a little slower
523
00:26:29,690 --> 00:26:33,350
and take everything in,
free from distractions.
524
00:26:33,350 --> 00:26:36,690
The only downside is
cafes are usually closed.
525
00:26:36,690 --> 00:26:39,513
Thankfully, I've got a
coffee machine on the boat.
526
00:26:49,860 --> 00:26:51,640
Riding around the coast,
you notice there isn't
527
00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:53,870
a huge amount of greenery.
528
00:26:53,870 --> 00:26:57,780
The rocky slopes aren't very
fertile, but somehow fragosika,
529
00:26:57,780 --> 00:27:00,380
or prickly pears, have
managed to make a foothold
530
00:27:00,380 --> 00:27:01,880
on these hillsides.
531
00:27:01,880 --> 00:27:03,780
It absolutely thrives
in what you would think
532
00:27:03,780 --> 00:27:06,760
are adverse growing
conditions on barren ground.
533
00:27:06,760 --> 00:27:09,140
But like the locals,
it's adapted perfectly
534
00:27:09,140 --> 00:27:10,280
to the environment.
535
00:27:10,280 --> 00:27:12,470
You see it growing throughout
the southern Peloponnese
536
00:27:12,470 --> 00:27:14,100
and most islands.
537
00:27:14,100 --> 00:27:16,320
They're a summer fruit
and make for great eating,
538
00:27:16,320 --> 00:27:18,730
and apparently, they're good for you too.
539
00:27:18,730 --> 00:27:21,050
However, harvesting them
is a bit of a challenge.
540
00:27:21,050 --> 00:27:23,390
The reward is well
worth the effort though,
541
00:27:23,390 --> 00:27:24,513
and a few pin pricks.
542
00:27:27,020 --> 00:27:29,620
Continuing further along, I
reached my destination before
543
00:27:29,620 --> 00:27:31,290
the first beach-goers had arrived,
544
00:27:31,290 --> 00:27:33,173
the beautiful Arvanitia Beach.
545
00:27:35,040 --> 00:27:40,040
Well, it's our last day
in Napflion and we're here
546
00:27:40,380 --> 00:27:42,620
at the beach around the corner.
547
00:27:42,620 --> 00:27:46,180
You can even see a relic of
the global financial crisis
548
00:27:46,180 --> 00:27:47,633
up there, an old hotel.
549
00:27:48,510 --> 00:27:51,690
But put that aside,
and two hours from now,
550
00:27:51,690 --> 00:27:53,940
this place will be full
of tables and chairs,
551
00:27:55,060 --> 00:27:59,380
packed with people, music
blaring, people in and out
552
00:27:59,380 --> 00:28:01,529
of the water like basking seals.
553
00:28:01,529 --> 00:28:03,889
It's a sight to be seen.
554
00:28:03,889 --> 00:28:06,120
I better get in the water
before they get here.
555
00:28:06,120 --> 00:28:08,280
Seconds after this shot,
I was battling to get
556
00:28:08,280 --> 00:28:09,113
my shirt off.
557
00:28:09,113 --> 00:28:11,540
Yeah, I probably should have
taken the helmet off first.
558
00:28:11,540 --> 00:28:13,330
Needless to say, the camera
crew had a good laugh
559
00:28:13,330 --> 00:28:15,780
at my expense, but the joke was on them.
560
00:28:15,780 --> 00:28:17,220
While they were off
getting the pretty pictures
561
00:28:17,220 --> 00:28:19,640
you're looking at now, I was
floating in the sea without
562
00:28:19,640 --> 00:28:21,080
a care in the world.
563
00:28:21,080 --> 00:28:22,639
Who's laughing now, fellas?
564
00:28:22,639 --> 00:28:25,056
(calm music)
565
00:28:26,710 --> 00:28:28,330
After a relaxing few days in Nafplion,
566
00:28:28,330 --> 00:28:32,240
we made our way down the
coast towards Limeni Geraka.
567
00:28:32,240 --> 00:28:34,120
This part of the Peloponnese
coastline is dotted
568
00:28:34,120 --> 00:28:36,970
with countless beaches, where
crystal clear water laps
569
00:28:36,970 --> 00:28:39,400
on pebbled or sandy shores.
570
00:28:39,400 --> 00:28:42,190
A lot of them, particularly
the easily accessible ones,
571
00:28:42,190 --> 00:28:44,750
are frequented by tourists
and in the summer months
572
00:28:44,750 --> 00:28:46,240
they can get quite busy.
573
00:28:46,240 --> 00:28:48,060
However, there are plenty
of more secluded places
574
00:28:48,060 --> 00:28:50,193
that take a little bit
of effort to get to.
575
00:28:51,740 --> 00:28:53,010
Over the years, I've noticed the creation
576
00:28:53,010 --> 00:28:55,100
of an increasing amount
of mapped trails to some
577
00:28:55,100 --> 00:28:56,880
of the hidden gems.
578
00:28:56,880 --> 00:28:58,820
The great thing about getting
off the well-worn paths
579
00:28:58,820 --> 00:29:01,060
and exploring these short
walks is that occasionally,
580
00:29:01,060 --> 00:29:03,610
you find a strip of sand
in an idyllic setting
581
00:29:03,610 --> 00:29:05,854
that you can call your own for the day.
582
00:29:05,854 --> 00:29:08,180
You know what I love about
Greece is the unpredictability.
583
00:29:08,180 --> 00:29:10,200
We're heading down the eastern
coast of the Peloponnese
584
00:29:10,200 --> 00:29:14,550
to Geraka down the road,
and we found Vaviathlaki.
585
00:29:14,550 --> 00:29:16,340
It's not even on the map, but
the captain knows about it.
586
00:29:16,340 --> 00:29:18,440
We're about to get in, have
a swim, have some lunch,
587
00:29:18,440 --> 00:29:19,743
and then move on.
588
00:29:22,363 --> 00:29:24,113
Apart from the ancient
ruins, everyone knows Greece
589
00:29:24,113 --> 00:29:27,000
for its beautiful, warm
blue waters, the vast amount
590
00:29:27,000 --> 00:29:29,720
of islands, and even greater
abundance of beaches.
591
00:29:29,720 --> 00:29:31,820
But what most don't know
is that despite being one
592
00:29:31,820 --> 00:29:34,290
of the most beautiful holiday
destinations in the world,
593
00:29:34,290 --> 00:29:37,610
the majority of the place is
left unexplored by tourists.
594
00:29:37,610 --> 00:29:39,410
The average traveller
spends time in Athens
595
00:29:39,410 --> 00:29:42,480
and then goes to places
like Mykonos, Crete, Rhodes,
596
00:29:42,480 --> 00:29:44,340
Santorini, or Corfu.
597
00:29:44,340 --> 00:29:46,760
But head to the lesser-known
locales and you'll find
598
00:29:46,760 --> 00:29:48,160
a very different Greece.
599
00:29:48,160 --> 00:29:50,070
One that's peaceful and traditional.
600
00:29:50,070 --> 00:29:52,430
A place where you can get
away from it all and unwind
601
00:29:52,430 --> 00:29:54,700
in a setting that's as
picturesque as anything else
602
00:29:54,700 --> 00:29:56,920
you'll come across on the planet.
603
00:29:56,920 --> 00:29:59,540
Finding these hidden
delights is the fun part.
604
00:29:59,540 --> 00:30:01,090
Most of them aren't on travel blogs
605
00:30:01,090 --> 00:30:03,780
or websites with lists
of must-do activities
606
00:30:03,780 --> 00:30:05,610
or top 10 places to visit.
607
00:30:05,610 --> 00:30:07,760
You need some local
knowledge to find them.
608
00:30:07,760 --> 00:30:09,470
And yes, we don't all
have a friend that knows
609
00:30:09,470 --> 00:30:12,270
the far away corners of Greece,
but we can all take the time
610
00:30:12,270 --> 00:30:14,240
to talk to people in
small towns and villages
611
00:30:14,240 --> 00:30:16,070
we pass through and ask
them what they think
612
00:30:16,070 --> 00:30:18,500
is the best part of their area to visit.
613
00:30:18,500 --> 00:30:20,250
It's only by digging a little
deeper than a guidebook
614
00:30:20,250 --> 00:30:22,150
that you unearth the most unique gems.
615
00:30:32,110 --> 00:30:34,943
(uplifting music)
616
00:30:45,260 --> 00:30:47,570
The water in this part of
the world is generally calm.
617
00:30:47,570 --> 00:30:50,070
It's a relatively protected
stretch of coastline,
618
00:30:50,070 --> 00:30:51,930
so it makes for smooth sailing.
619
00:30:51,930 --> 00:30:53,350
But when it gets rough, it takes on
620
00:30:53,350 --> 00:30:56,460
a whole different
personality, an ugly one.
621
00:30:56,460 --> 00:30:57,930
Our journey was taking us south along
622
00:30:57,930 --> 00:31:01,470
the Peloponnese peninsula,
from Nafplion to Limeni Geraka.
623
00:31:01,470 --> 00:31:03,570
I briefly visited here a
few years ago and found
624
00:31:03,570 --> 00:31:06,030
a nice little port to spend some time in.
625
00:31:06,030 --> 00:31:08,400
The cove was essentially
discovered by accident.
626
00:31:08,400 --> 00:31:10,860
It was one of those rough
days, where foul weather forced
627
00:31:10,860 --> 00:31:13,010
a fisherman to search for protection.
628
00:31:13,010 --> 00:31:14,750
He came across this sheltered inlet
629
00:31:14,750 --> 00:31:17,030
and waited out the storm, and naturally,
630
00:31:17,030 --> 00:31:19,290
a harbour town was eventually built here.
631
00:31:19,290 --> 00:31:21,600
Today it's the gateway to
the inland town of Geraka,
632
00:31:21,600 --> 00:31:23,580
birthplace of the actor Telly Savalis,
633
00:31:23,580 --> 00:31:25,540
famed for playing detective Kojak.
634
00:31:25,540 --> 00:31:27,420
If you've never heard of him, Google it,
635
00:31:27,420 --> 00:31:29,810
you'll immediately see
why some people say I look
636
00:31:29,810 --> 00:31:30,830
a bit like him.
637
00:31:30,830 --> 00:31:33,280
Anyway, this place has a
more important story to it,
638
00:31:33,280 --> 00:31:35,490
one that's common for
villages throughout Greece,
639
00:31:35,490 --> 00:31:37,441
particularly those in more remote areas.
640
00:31:37,441 --> 00:31:40,524
(lighthearted music)
641
00:31:47,520 --> 00:31:49,370
We're about five kilometres inland
642
00:31:49,370 --> 00:31:51,600
from that beautiful fjord port of Gerakas.
643
00:31:51,600 --> 00:31:54,800
This is Gerakas town,
and don't look at it now.
644
00:31:54,800 --> 00:31:59,560
It is beautiful, but 50 years
ago, those mountain were full
645
00:31:59,560 --> 00:32:03,930
of fields that were tomatoes, olive trees,
646
00:32:03,930 --> 00:32:04,763
lemon trees, you name it.
647
00:32:04,763 --> 00:32:07,740
And it was a thriving population here.
648
00:32:07,740 --> 00:32:10,810
The school alone had 200 children.
649
00:32:10,810 --> 00:32:12,330
150-odd homes.
650
00:32:12,330 --> 00:32:14,950
But there's only 40
people living there now,
651
00:32:14,950 --> 00:32:18,000
and mostly over the ages
of 60 and 70 years old.
652
00:32:18,000 --> 00:32:18,833
Why is that so?
653
00:32:19,930 --> 00:32:21,360
Everybody immigrated.
654
00:32:21,360 --> 00:32:24,450
They all went to America,
they went to Australia,
655
00:32:24,450 --> 00:32:26,000
they went to Canada.
656
00:32:26,000 --> 00:32:28,911
Much like many of the
villages here in Peloponnesos,
657
00:32:28,911 --> 00:32:31,600
Kremasti, Patras, all of these places.
658
00:32:31,600 --> 00:32:34,010
But it's still a beautiful old village.
659
00:32:34,010 --> 00:32:36,990
Even that house up the top
there, that white one with
660
00:32:36,990 --> 00:32:39,410
the two windows, that was the house
661
00:32:39,410 --> 00:32:41,883
of Telly Savalis' father
for you movie buffs.
662
00:32:43,670 --> 00:32:46,540
In town I met Christos,
a born-and-bred local.
663
00:32:46,540 --> 00:32:49,530
His tale is typical of many
others that come from here.
664
00:32:49,530 --> 00:32:51,500
When worked dried up, he
was forced to travel abroad
665
00:32:51,500 --> 00:32:53,780
to support his family,
so for much of his life
666
00:32:53,780 --> 00:32:55,730
he's travelled back and forth to the US.
667
00:33:04,792 --> 00:33:08,292
So you went every year, and you came back?
668
00:33:12,060 --> 00:33:14,053
You did it for 34 years?
669
00:33:14,960 --> 00:33:16,640
You never saw a summer?
670
00:33:16,640 --> 00:33:19,290
You were in winter there, and winter here.
671
00:33:19,290 --> 00:33:20,180
- Yup.
672
00:33:20,180 --> 00:33:21,380
- Unbelievable.
673
00:33:21,380 --> 00:33:22,930
And you look like a strong man.
674
00:33:25,270 --> 00:33:27,450
70 winters, amazing.
675
00:33:27,450 --> 00:33:30,603
Many people have left here,
like you did, but you came back.
676
00:33:34,588 --> 00:33:38,505
(speaking in foreign language)
677
00:33:43,680 --> 00:33:44,603
No cars.
678
00:33:52,910 --> 00:33:55,510
Christos is one of very few
that are still hanging on.
679
00:33:55,510 --> 00:33:58,330
Unfortunately, his story is not unique.
680
00:33:58,330 --> 00:34:01,010
It's one that's told over
and over again throughout
681
00:34:01,010 --> 00:34:03,970
the villages of inland
Greece and in much of Europe.
682
00:34:03,970 --> 00:34:07,020
The changing dynamics created
by war and economics often
683
00:34:07,020 --> 00:34:09,550
impacts those the
furthest removed from it.
684
00:34:09,550 --> 00:34:10,530
So quiet.
685
00:34:10,530 --> 00:34:13,060
All I can hear is the wind in the leaves.
686
00:34:13,060 --> 00:34:17,600
But this is typical of many
inland towns in Greece.
687
00:34:17,600 --> 00:34:22,290
Where the boys left here,
in the 30s, 40s, and 50s,
688
00:34:22,290 --> 00:34:25,380
15 years old, 16 years old,
and never came back 'cause
689
00:34:25,380 --> 00:34:28,410
they established their
homes and their families
690
00:34:28,410 --> 00:34:32,300
in Canada, Australia, America.
691
00:34:32,300 --> 00:34:36,200
It's kind of sad, only a
handful of old people left here,
692
00:34:36,200 --> 00:34:37,150
but that's life.
693
00:34:37,150 --> 00:34:38,674
Flag's still flying though.
694
00:34:38,674 --> 00:34:41,306
(sombre music)
695
00:34:41,306 --> 00:34:43,640
Out here, the decisions
made by politicians
696
00:34:43,640 --> 00:34:45,630
in the big cities can be devastating,
697
00:34:45,630 --> 00:34:47,340
and very long-lasting.
698
00:34:47,340 --> 00:34:49,890
However, while the inland
villages have suffered greatly,
699
00:34:49,890 --> 00:34:52,760
those on the coast and
the islands have thrived.
700
00:34:52,760 --> 00:34:55,050
It's a complete contrast to centuries ago,
701
00:34:55,050 --> 00:34:57,140
when people lived in the
hills away from the dangers
702
00:34:57,140 --> 00:34:59,560
of the coastal towns that
were constantly under threat
703
00:34:59,560 --> 00:35:00,510
from pirate attack.
704
00:35:06,250 --> 00:35:07,800
One positive that can be drawn from it all
705
00:35:07,800 --> 00:35:10,410
is that places like this
haven't been impacted
706
00:35:10,410 --> 00:35:12,600
by outside influences.
707
00:35:12,600 --> 00:35:15,960
There's no big brand
stores or fast food chains.
708
00:35:15,960 --> 00:35:17,730
Life is far more traditional
than in the major centres
709
00:35:17,730 --> 00:35:20,963
or tourist hubs, which for
some is why they remain.
710
00:35:23,340 --> 00:35:25,960
Back by the water and
things are very different.
711
00:35:25,960 --> 00:35:28,650
It's only a short journey,
but might as well be
712
00:35:28,650 --> 00:35:30,510
a million miles away.
713
00:35:30,510 --> 00:35:32,000
The setting was stunning.
714
00:35:32,000 --> 00:35:33,930
Fishing boats came in at
the end of the day's work
715
00:35:33,930 --> 00:35:36,170
and yachts set anchor for the night.
716
00:35:36,170 --> 00:35:38,170
There was a sense of calm in the air,
717
00:35:38,170 --> 00:35:40,420
and while it's impossible to
forget the hardships faced
718
00:35:40,420 --> 00:35:42,560
by those only a few kilometres away,
719
00:35:42,560 --> 00:35:44,930
I had a chance to reflect and be thankful
720
00:35:44,930 --> 00:35:45,930
for the life I lead.
721
00:35:52,177 --> 00:35:55,010
(uplifting music)
722
00:36:03,166 --> 00:36:05,999
(energetic music)
723
00:36:10,320 --> 00:36:13,010
After a night in Limeni
Geraka, we kept cruising south,
724
00:36:13,010 --> 00:36:15,010
to the stunning town of Monemvasia.
725
00:36:15,010 --> 00:36:16,887
It's an awe-inspiring place that no matter
726
00:36:16,887 --> 00:36:19,963
how many times I see it,
I'm always overwhelmed.
727
00:36:23,230 --> 00:36:24,720
The town and imposing fort are built
728
00:36:24,720 --> 00:36:26,680
on this towering rocky
outcrop that sits a couple
729
00:36:26,680 --> 00:36:28,950
of hundred metres off the mainland.
730
00:36:28,950 --> 00:36:32,210
At only one kilometre long
and a few hundred metres wide,
731
00:36:32,210 --> 00:36:35,580
Monemvasia might be small,
but it sure does pack a punch.
732
00:36:35,580 --> 00:36:39,173
From sea, land, or above,
it's an incredible sight.
733
00:36:43,550 --> 00:36:46,160
You know, when you come
to Monemvasia and see
734
00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:50,260
this beautiful rock, you'll
more than likely come by car,
735
00:36:50,260 --> 00:36:53,033
and you'll arrive here in the Newtown.
736
00:36:54,348 --> 00:36:57,380
Newtown actually has something
to offer, not only just
737
00:36:57,380 --> 00:37:01,370
where you stay, but it's
got some beautiful sweets,
738
00:37:01,370 --> 00:37:04,493
awesome coffee, and some nice tavernas.
739
00:37:06,590 --> 00:37:08,190
Monemvasia is a very significant monument
740
00:37:08,190 --> 00:37:09,600
in Greece's history.
741
00:37:09,600 --> 00:37:12,320
As a result, over the
years tourism has grown
742
00:37:12,320 --> 00:37:13,700
to an extent that they've had to build up
743
00:37:13,700 --> 00:37:16,900
the town's infrastructure
to support all the visitors.
744
00:37:16,900 --> 00:37:18,910
Unfortunately though, the financial crisis
745
00:37:18,910 --> 00:37:20,820
has decimated the holiday industry.
746
00:37:20,820 --> 00:37:22,810
Recently, the ferry service was suspended,
747
00:37:22,810 --> 00:37:25,150
which makes it even harder
for people to get here.
748
00:37:25,150 --> 00:37:27,160
The flow on effect increases the issue,
749
00:37:27,160 --> 00:37:28,640
which is hurting the local community.
750
00:37:28,640 --> 00:37:31,600
However, with nearly
1,500 years of history,
751
00:37:31,600 --> 00:37:34,360
these ups and downs
aren't new to the place.
752
00:37:34,360 --> 00:37:36,430
Monemvasia has bounced back from far worse
753
00:37:36,430 --> 00:37:37,473
many times before.
754
00:37:42,817 --> 00:37:45,596
The fortress sits perched 100
metres above the town below.
755
00:37:45,596 --> 00:37:47,090
The stonewalls and towers
have weathered through
756
00:37:47,090 --> 00:37:49,640
the centuries, but it
remains an imposing feature
757
00:37:49,640 --> 00:37:50,860
on the skyline.
758
00:37:50,860 --> 00:37:52,980
You could imagine an
invading force looking at it
759
00:37:52,980 --> 00:37:54,440
in fear and wonder.
760
00:37:54,440 --> 00:37:55,960
Down below, the streets are filled with
761
00:37:55,960 --> 00:37:58,273
an interesting mix of
architecture spanning 1,000 years
762
00:37:58,273 --> 00:37:59,860
or more of occupation.
763
00:37:59,860 --> 00:38:01,690
It's the type of place
you need a guide or a book
764
00:38:01,690 --> 00:38:04,640
to really get an
appreciation of the history.
765
00:38:04,640 --> 00:38:08,610
So Effie, how old is this
beautiful town of Monemvasia?
766
00:38:08,610 --> 00:38:13,370
- It was first founded in around 580 AD,
767
00:38:13,370 --> 00:38:17,320
so it is a very old place
and it has never been
768
00:38:17,320 --> 00:38:19,270
abandoned until today.
769
00:38:19,270 --> 00:38:21,370
- So what was the population at it's peak?
770
00:38:22,430 --> 00:38:24,000
- We can't be certain about it,
771
00:38:24,000 --> 00:38:28,750
but some old books say even 20,000 people.
772
00:38:28,750 --> 00:38:30,730
- Wow, and today?
773
00:38:30,730 --> 00:38:31,920
- 20 people.
774
00:38:31,920 --> 00:38:34,576
- [Peter] Wow, 20,000 and 20, amazing.
775
00:38:34,576 --> 00:38:37,159
(gentle music)
776
00:38:39,630 --> 00:38:41,300
I like the greenery in Monemvasia.
777
00:38:41,300 --> 00:38:43,750
There's little bits of
greenery everywhere you know?
778
00:38:43,750 --> 00:38:44,583
- [Effie] Very few, yeah.
779
00:38:44,583 --> 00:38:46,880
- [Peter] Yeah, but it's there.
780
00:38:46,880 --> 00:38:47,730
- It is.
- Yeah.
781
00:38:51,400 --> 00:38:53,437
Through Byzantine,
Venetian, and Ottoman rule,
782
00:38:53,437 --> 00:38:55,290
the town and fortress stood.
783
00:38:55,290 --> 00:38:57,490
Each of the invading powers came and went,
784
00:38:57,490 --> 00:39:00,440
leaving their mark in the form
of building designs specific
785
00:39:00,440 --> 00:39:03,360
to the style of the period
and their tastes or needs.
786
00:39:03,360 --> 00:39:06,640
In amongst the narrow laneways,
often hidden from view,
787
00:39:06,640 --> 00:39:09,540
you'll find various examples
of period architecture,
788
00:39:09,540 --> 00:39:11,623
much of it in fantastic condition.
789
00:39:19,500 --> 00:39:22,623
There's a lot of steps here,
how far have we got to go?
790
00:39:23,890 --> 00:39:27,143
- [Effie] It doesn't matter,
it's worth it, worth the steps.
791
00:39:28,390 --> 00:39:29,570
- [Peter] On purpose you're not telling me
792
00:39:29,570 --> 00:39:31,140
how far we've got to go!
793
00:39:31,140 --> 00:39:32,800
- [Effie] It isn't very far, I promise.
794
00:39:32,800 --> 00:39:33,633
- [Peter] Okay.
795
00:39:35,350 --> 00:39:38,680
I see there's ongoing
repairs of the stairs here,
796
00:39:38,680 --> 00:39:39,513
which is good.
797
00:39:39,513 --> 00:39:40,750
- Always, Dinos is working for
798
00:39:40,750 --> 00:39:42,100
the archaeological service here,
799
00:39:42,100 --> 00:39:45,010
he has a permanent position
and he is one of the few people
800
00:39:45,010 --> 00:39:48,170
who know how to build things
in the traditional way.
801
00:39:48,170 --> 00:39:50,960
- Oh, so he's been trained for this?
802
00:39:50,960 --> 00:39:52,900
- Yes, through work.
803
00:39:52,900 --> 00:39:53,733
- Fantastic.
804
00:39:55,600 --> 00:39:57,830
The stairs are seemingly endless.
805
00:39:57,830 --> 00:40:00,350
I can only imagine the trials
the builders went through
806
00:40:00,350 --> 00:40:01,880
when constructing this thing.
807
00:40:01,880 --> 00:40:03,640
It would have been an incredible labour,
808
00:40:03,640 --> 00:40:06,190
carting stones and timber
up and down the slope
809
00:40:06,190 --> 00:40:07,670
in searing heat.
810
00:40:07,670 --> 00:40:09,630
Then of course, there would
have been plenty of work
811
00:40:09,630 --> 00:40:11,470
to maintain it through the centuries.
812
00:40:11,470 --> 00:40:13,160
Effie, I can't believe
we are already here,
813
00:40:13,160 --> 00:40:14,730
it looks so high from down the bottom.
814
00:40:14,730 --> 00:40:16,930
- [Effie] I know, I
had the same impression
815
00:40:16,930 --> 00:40:19,130
when I first came here
but it is much easier.
816
00:40:19,130 --> 00:40:19,963
- 10 minutes!
817
00:40:19,963 --> 00:40:22,270
- [Effie] And we're already
in front of the gate
818
00:40:22,270 --> 00:40:23,103
of the out of town.
819
00:40:23,103 --> 00:40:26,760
- [Peter] And look at it, it's
just so majestic, so grand,
820
00:40:26,760 --> 00:40:30,710
and yet it looks it's the
same as was 1,000 years ago.
821
00:40:30,710 --> 00:40:32,076
- [Effie] It is!
822
00:40:32,076 --> 00:40:33,926
- [Peter] It is, it is, that's right!
823
00:40:36,610 --> 00:40:37,443
It's very low.
824
00:40:38,350 --> 00:40:40,510
They weren't very tall people
in those times were they?
825
00:40:40,510 --> 00:40:42,590
- [Effie] I think it's
not a matter of height,
826
00:40:42,590 --> 00:40:44,220
it is just how they made them.
827
00:40:44,220 --> 00:40:45,870
- How they built things?
- Yeah.
828
00:40:50,260 --> 00:40:51,650
- These old stone structures have a way
829
00:40:51,650 --> 00:40:53,520
of putting things into context.
830
00:40:53,520 --> 00:40:54,890
There are moments when
they can make me feel
831
00:40:54,890 --> 00:40:58,240
a tad insignificant in terms
of my time walking the earth.
832
00:40:58,240 --> 00:41:00,600
When I'm long gone and but a memory,
833
00:41:00,600 --> 00:41:03,150
these walls will likely still remain.
834
00:41:03,150 --> 00:41:04,920
That said, I'd like to
think that a handful
835
00:41:04,920 --> 00:41:06,700
of the buildings I
construct might well be part
836
00:41:06,700 --> 00:41:09,050
of the urban landscape
in 1,000 years from now.
837
00:41:17,820 --> 00:41:18,833
Wow, Effie.
838
00:41:19,800 --> 00:41:20,990
- Quite impressive.
839
00:41:20,990 --> 00:41:25,860
- I can see now why it's so
important to you, in your job.
840
00:41:25,860 --> 00:41:28,360
I look at this massive fortification
841
00:41:28,360 --> 00:41:31,380
and it's almost like they
sculpted it out of rock.
842
00:41:31,380 --> 00:41:36,010
I see so many walls,
so many fortifications,
843
00:41:36,010 --> 00:41:39,600
different colours, how long
would it have taken to build
844
00:41:39,600 --> 00:41:41,360
this magnificent piece?
845
00:41:41,360 --> 00:41:43,520
- This was an ongoing construction.
846
00:41:43,520 --> 00:41:47,900
The walls are not that many,
the needs to fortify this place
847
00:41:47,900 --> 00:41:52,900
were limited because it has
fortification on its own.
848
00:41:53,180 --> 00:41:57,880
I mean the rock means
there's natural defence here,
849
00:41:57,880 --> 00:41:59,940
we have walls around the lower town.
850
00:41:59,940 --> 00:42:03,260
Some walls are on this side
of the upper town because
851
00:42:03,260 --> 00:42:05,960
the attacks were coming
from the sea, from there.
852
00:42:05,960 --> 00:42:08,510
But it was something that
was happening all the time,
853
00:42:08,510 --> 00:42:12,930
restoring the damaged parts,
and it's still happening today.
854
00:42:12,930 --> 00:42:16,590
- Wow, now I understand
there's a wonderful church
855
00:42:16,590 --> 00:42:17,950
at the top here, Agia Sofia?
856
00:42:17,950 --> 00:42:18,783
- Yes.
857
00:42:18,783 --> 00:42:19,616
- Can we go and have a look at it?
858
00:42:19,616 --> 00:42:20,449
- Of course we will.
859
00:42:20,449 --> 00:42:21,282
- Let's go.
860
00:42:23,550 --> 00:42:26,183
Wow, this is absolutely magnificent.
861
00:42:29,090 --> 00:42:31,510
One of the most important
and oldest Byzantine churches
862
00:42:31,510 --> 00:42:35,320
in Greece is this place,
the church of Agia Sofia.
863
00:42:35,320 --> 00:42:36,587
It was built in the 12th century
864
00:42:36,587 --> 00:42:39,807
and is in amazing condition,
both inside and out.
865
00:42:41,280 --> 00:42:44,323
Wow, Effie this is amazing.
866
00:42:45,280 --> 00:42:48,880
In the next episode the journey
continues as I explore more
867
00:42:48,880 --> 00:42:51,870
of Monemvasia and the inland area nearby.
868
00:42:51,870 --> 00:42:53,497
I'm gonna learn about
the past of the island
869
00:42:53,497 --> 00:42:55,660
and go from one of the
oldest churches in Greece
870
00:42:55,660 --> 00:42:57,840
to one of the most historic
wine-growing regions
871
00:42:57,840 --> 00:42:58,710
in the world.
872
00:42:58,710 --> 00:43:00,670
For many centuries a
lot of wines from across
873
00:43:00,670 --> 00:43:03,090
the country would pass
through the Port of Monemvasia
874
00:43:03,090 --> 00:43:04,737
before reaching other
parts of the Mediterranean
875
00:43:04,737 --> 00:43:06,770
and as far as Northern Europe.
876
00:43:06,770 --> 00:43:08,730
From there I make my way
to another tiny island
877
00:43:08,730 --> 00:43:11,600
that punches well above
its weight, Elafonisos.
878
00:43:11,600 --> 00:43:14,190
It might only be 16
square kilometres in size,
879
00:43:14,190 --> 00:43:16,890
but it's a hidden paradise
with a picturesque coast
880
00:43:16,890 --> 00:43:19,490
that rivals the prettiest
places you'll come across.
881
00:43:20,350 --> 00:43:23,550
As the day came to an end and
the crew repositioned Mia Zoi
882
00:43:23,550 --> 00:43:25,610
to a more sheltered part of the island,
883
00:43:25,610 --> 00:43:28,620
I spent the final hours of
sunlight enjoying the view.
884
00:43:28,620 --> 00:43:31,082
There are few places more
spectacular than this.
885
00:43:31,082 --> 00:43:33,915
(exuberant music)
70671
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