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- My travels around Greece
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as part of this Odyssey have taken me
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from the heart of the nation, Athens
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and throughout several
of major island groups.
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We've cruised around the
coast of the Peloponnese
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and traveled amongst the Ionian Islands.
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Then we made our way across
to the Northern Aegean
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before spending time
exploring the hidden gems
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of the Western Cyclades.
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And man, was it beautiful?
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This series sees us steering meters away
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further East way and into the Dodecanese.
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In this episode, I've arrived in Fournoi.
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And I know what you're thinking,
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where in the Mediterranean is that?
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Well, it's a gorgeous slice of Greece
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hidden between Ikaria to the West
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and Samos on the Northeast.
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My plan is to take in the sites
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from the mountain tops to the sea floor.
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I'll be showing you that this
is one of those destinations,
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where if you wanna get
the most out of the place,
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you have to not only get
your hands a little dirty,
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but be prepared to pop on a
wetsuit and take the plunge.
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Fournoi is quite unique in this region,
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an archipelago of tiny
islands and rocky reefs.
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Form rugged coastlines, full of inlets,
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it's a place not known
to the average traveler,
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seemingly lost in amongst
its more popular neighbors.
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Traveling along the many
alcoves and islets of Fournoi,
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you come to the main town
of Fournoi and you see
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this beautiful pathway, marble-lined
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and these Mulberry trees.
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It's absolutely magnificent.
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And you can tell that there
is a deep past to Fournoi,
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because up there is the old
town, there is an Acropolis,
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there is an ancient town
and then this is modern town
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and I'm looking forward to
discovering the whole place.
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Pretty much every Greek Island
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has a slice of the old in
amongst the gloss of the new,
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but this place, despite
all the research we did
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had so much more to see and do
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than I could find in any books,
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not even talking to fellow
Greeks revealed much about it.
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Most of them hadn't even heard of Fournoi,
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yet the thing is it's full of
awesome stuff to experience.
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There are stunning beaches,
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some of the best honey in the
country and marble quarries,
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unearthing stone that's so white
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it has an almost icy blue hue.
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The food is delicious, the
scenery is spectacular.
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And recently they made
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one of the most significant
archeological discoveries
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of last century.
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But my exploration
started at the Acropolis,
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not far from the main village.
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Now, there isn't a resident
archeologist on Fournoi
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and to find this Acropolis,
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we have to refer to text and our research
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and couple of books and the locals.
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And they said, "Go to Agios Georgios
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"and you'll find the Acropolis."
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Agios Georgios is over there but so far.
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We haven't been on anything
and I'll tell you what,
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this is not a path.
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I don't know how you get up here
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but I think I'm headed the right way.
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Lots of big stones, but have a look here.
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There we go, have a look here.
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This stone and that one there,
they're obviously man cut.
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These are part of a cyclopean wall
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that is part of this
whole Acropolis, 36 acres.
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And you can see they've
built these other fences here
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in the last three or 400 years
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for boundaries, for the
guides to the animals.
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And there's gotta be
more of these further up.
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And I could see Agios
Georgios in the distance.
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Let's head that way and have a look.
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See if we can find more.
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It's a common theme in
Greece that the farm walls
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are built atop the remnants
of ancient structures
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or used material from nearby ruins.
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Here, kilometers of
fortified cyclopean walls,
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surrounded the ancient Acropolis.
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And if you didn't know to look for them,
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you'd be none the wiser
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and simply think this was only
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a relatively contemporary formation.
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It's incredible what you can uncover
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with a bit of research and some tenacity.
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So as we get closer to the church,
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there's more evidence of these big blocks
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that were parts of this
massive cyclopean wall
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but you wonder, why did
they build it up here
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in the middle of nowhere?
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Well, the evidence of that
is just over the rise here.
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Agios Georgios or the church of St. George
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sits perched high above the main port.
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Like I've said before,
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it's not uncommon to
find a place of worship
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built on a mountain top,
well away from town.
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To get there, it's only a 10-minute drive
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followed by a 15-minute hike.
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And the effort is well worth the reward,
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even if you're not one of the faithful.
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And here's your answer, there's
Thymena just opposite us,
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but along with another 15
of the Fournoi islands,
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it's the perfect sanctuary
for Saracen parts.
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The writers, they come here,
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sit around and write whatever they can.
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You had to be high up out of the way,
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build these massive walls,
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but sometimes it just didn't work.
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But man, they had an awesome view.
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Look at that.
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For a lot of travelers
and some Greeks, mind you,
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there's a belief that
all the islands of Greece
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are much the same.
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That between them,
there's little difference
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in the food, culture, people and history.
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I've even heard some people say
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that if you've seen one Greek Island,
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you've seen them all.
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This couldn't be further from the truth.
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Every place I visit has
its own personality.
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There are little quirks
and points of difference
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to each and every one of the
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over 200 inhabited Greek islands.
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In some cases, you just
need to scratch the surface
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to find it.
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In others, you need to dig a little deeper
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to see the real character of the place.
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In Fournoi, all you have to
do is take a hike up here
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and it will all unfold before your eyes.
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Back down closer to sea level,
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a drive along the coastal roads
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provides for even more fantastic views.
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It was a challenge not to stop
every 500 meters for a photo.
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During our little road trip,
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the majority of people we
came across were either
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locals or second and third
generation Greek Fournoians
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from the mainland or United States.
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In actual fact, there
weren't any signs at all
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that this was a tourist island,
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no deck chairs and umbrellas on the sand,
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no beach bars or people
tryna sell you a watermelon
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while you're sun bathing.
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It was as though the place
remained untouched by foreigners.
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Look at this, unbelievable.
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This is the beach of Lichada,
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but there's Psili Ammos,
there's Petrokopio,
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another half a dozen
beaches here in Fournoi.
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And they're all awesome
depending on the wind direction,
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but have a look at it.
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Aqua blue, green, it's just magnificent.
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And I feel like taking my clothes off
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and just jumping in right now,
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but I can't, I've got too much to do.
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It's hard to believe that
Fournoi is only an hour by ferry
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to the busy island of Samos.
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I just wonder how much longer
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it will remain the hidden gem that it is.
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And I'm so grateful to have
visited this tranquil island
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before it gets discovered by the masses.
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It didn't take long to get attached
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to the beaches on Fournoi,
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the peaceful surrounds, color, clarity
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and crispness of the water
made for an idyllic setting.
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This particular stretch of
sand also had a story to tell,
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one that's over 2,000 years old.
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Petrokopio beach,
translated cut stone beach,
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cut stone because there's all this marble.
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This used to be a quarry in antiquity
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as you can see from all these pieces.
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Over here, you have a sarcophagus
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that hasn't been hollowed out yet.
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You've got column drums,
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you've got a beautiful architrave here.
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These are big pieces.
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This would have been a massive mine.
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It actually mined stone for Ephesus,
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for Miletus all over this region.
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But what's beautiful about this stone
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is it's got no vein in it.
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It's actually an icy blue quart.
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I think it's better than Ephesus,
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even though Ephesus quart
has been mined continually
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for two and a half thousand years,
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this stuff is very special.
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And it said it's no longer being mined,
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but have a look at it, will you?
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If we just get my trusty emery paper,
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you can see that that
pinky hue is actually just,
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I don't know, oxidation or something.
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But when you cut it back,
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you can see that beautiful, icy blue.
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And we just need a bit of
water and we can do this here.
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I've got two forms of emery paper.
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Hang on a second.
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Ah, look at color coming up.
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Look, you see that icy
blue coming through.
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Now, you can see that rosy patina.
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It's just a patina
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but this is actually
the color it used to be.
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Have a look at that.
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Look at that, that is
absolutely wonderful, isn't it?
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Anyway, this stuff was used
in Ephesus on the library
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and you can see why.
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It's just a beautiful model.
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Anyway, I might go and
see where it came from,
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the quarry at the top here.
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It's incredible how
many people will walk by
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or even step over these magnificent relics
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and have no idea or interest
in the stories they tell us.
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It's thousands of years of history
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now lying silent on a beach.
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Wow, just look at this place.
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My quick calculations say
there's probably about
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00:10:01,310 --> 00:10:04,450
100,000 tons of marble
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that have been exploited
from this cavenous mountain
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and yet they still more
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00:10:10,737 --> 00:10:14,330
and I just wonder why they
just didn't keep going.
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00:10:14,330 --> 00:10:15,980
There's probably some reason for it,
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00:10:15,980 --> 00:10:19,700
whether it's economics
or region or whatever,
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but it's said that they left it like this.
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It's sort of like they just up and left.
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Of all the mines and quarries
we've seen across my journey
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from Thassos and Serifos
to Kimolos and Milos,
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this place has now become my favorite.
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Petrokopio might not be as well known
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or have the same level of
historical significance
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but for me, it packs a big punch.
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It's rare to see so much stone
quarried, cut, and shipped
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from an area the size
of the football field.
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At its peak, it would have
been a hive of activity.
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Hundreds of men would have been clamoring
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over the paws of stone
and scaling the cliffs.
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When I think of the history
and industry that once was,
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my imagination runs wild.
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Above the quarry and
scattered along the hillside
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00:11:12,650 --> 00:11:13,830
are beehives.
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00:11:13,830 --> 00:11:15,700
It's a common scene on Greek islands,
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but here, thanks to the mix of wild herbs
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growing across the landscape,
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the honey produced is
particularly different
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and unique in flavor.
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To learn more about it, I met with Manoli,
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who works for the local council
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and is also a part time beekeeper.
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00:11:33,900 --> 00:11:34,840
- We're gonna smoke it out.
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00:11:34,840 --> 00:11:37,833
So we're smoking 'em out so
that we can calm the bees down.
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And this is full of bees now.
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So these bees have been,
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00:11:52,970 --> 00:11:57,970
these bees have been
munching on thyme for months
255
00:11:59,580 --> 00:12:00,683
to create honey.
256
00:12:01,700 --> 00:12:04,170
And this is the beehive where they live
257
00:12:06,750 --> 00:12:11,750
and these are the bees,
they're all over us right now,
258
00:12:11,920 --> 00:12:13,423
That's a bit heavy.
259
00:12:14,920 --> 00:12:16,300
Got nothing on his arms.
260
00:12:16,300 --> 00:12:17,133
He's a...
261
00:12:18,884 --> 00:12:20,587
Hold it, oh shit, what was that?
262
00:12:20,587 --> 00:12:22,115
That's okay, it's okay.
263
00:12:22,948 --> 00:12:24,307
I thought that was something there
264
00:12:24,307 --> 00:12:27,330
but it was just a bit
of one of these plants
265
00:12:27,330 --> 00:12:28,780
that's tryna fool me.
266
00:12:28,780 --> 00:12:29,623
Let's just get on with it, Manoli,
267
00:12:29,623 --> 00:12:31,123
because I'm scared right now.
268
00:12:32,820 --> 00:12:34,640
I'm just blowing smoke all over myself
269
00:12:34,640 --> 00:12:36,453
because I'm in protection mode.
270
00:12:37,590 --> 00:12:40,950
I mean, this is like being a policeman.
271
00:12:40,950 --> 00:12:43,330
You're risking your life every day.
272
00:12:43,330 --> 00:12:45,290
And you know what's amazing,
273
00:12:45,290 --> 00:12:46,750
he's not allergic to bee stings
274
00:12:46,750 --> 00:12:49,780
but he's allergic to red wasp stings,
275
00:12:49,780 --> 00:12:51,270
he tells me, the big jabs.
276
00:12:51,270 --> 00:12:52,784
You're saying that's all honey?
277
00:13:02,171 --> 00:13:03,853
- 20 kilos of,
278
00:13:06,040 --> 00:13:08,980
Once a year, 20 kilos of
honey out of this thing
279
00:13:08,980 --> 00:13:13,019
and he pulls two tons of honey out a year.
280
00:13:17,389 --> 00:13:20,600
So, he's got about 200 of these beehives
281
00:13:20,600 --> 00:13:23,080
that he gets about two tons of,
282
00:13:23,080 --> 00:13:24,030
well, that doesn't sound right,
283
00:13:24,030 --> 00:13:25,060
the math doesn't sound right,
284
00:13:25,060 --> 00:13:26,790
but we're gonna run with that.
285
00:13:26,790 --> 00:13:29,109
I think we've seen enough right now.
286
00:13:29,942 --> 00:13:31,643
- Three kilos, oh no.
- Yeah.
287
00:13:32,638 --> 00:13:34,490
Whoa, that's heavy, hang on.
288
00:13:34,490 --> 00:13:37,370
That's heavy, there's three
kilos of honey in that.
289
00:13:37,370 --> 00:13:39,770
That's heavy and it's
sticky too, it's sticky.
290
00:13:39,770 --> 00:13:42,520
So kids, you should go and see a beehive
291
00:13:42,520 --> 00:13:44,260
but make sure you cover yourself
292
00:13:44,260 --> 00:13:45,903
'cause there's one right here now.
293
00:13:46,860 --> 00:13:49,680
Cover yourself so that
you don't get stung.
294
00:13:49,680 --> 00:13:52,080
This is where it all
comes from, the honey.
295
00:13:52,080 --> 00:13:54,020
Comes out there, pollinating the flowers.
296
00:13:54,020 --> 00:13:56,820
Here, it's herbs that's why
the Greek honey is so awesome.
297
00:13:56,820 --> 00:13:59,790
Because they're getting
the pollen from herbs,
298
00:13:59,790 --> 00:14:03,853
from thyme, from all sorts of oregano,
299
00:14:03,853 --> 00:14:06,490
oregano, I don't know,
I doubt it but anyway.
300
00:14:06,490 --> 00:14:09,477
Wow, look at that.
301
00:14:09,477 --> 00:14:11,523
It's like a knife through butter.
302
00:14:13,403 --> 00:14:14,480
Oh, that looks awesome.
303
00:14:14,480 --> 00:14:16,110
Look at that beautiful honey.
304
00:14:16,110 --> 00:14:18,520
Manoli, I know we're friends but listen,
305
00:14:18,520 --> 00:14:20,643
I wanna get out of here
as soon as possible.
306
00:14:22,165 --> 00:14:24,015
You're laughing, he's laughing at me.
307
00:14:25,504 --> 00:14:26,550
Okay, I think that's plenty of honey
308
00:14:26,550 --> 00:14:28,950
and what's wrong about this
309
00:14:28,950 --> 00:14:31,550
is we're taking the bees,
there's a bee there, right?
310
00:14:31,550 --> 00:14:33,070
We're taking their food.
311
00:14:33,070 --> 00:14:35,893
They're going out there and
they're getting the thyme
312
00:14:35,893 --> 00:14:38,310
and they're pollinating and
bringing back all this work
313
00:14:38,310 --> 00:14:41,780
and we're taking, we're
robbing honey from their food.
314
00:14:41,780 --> 00:14:44,040
So I reckon they're a
bit disappointed with us.
315
00:14:44,040 --> 00:14:45,020
That's why I wanna get out of here.
316
00:14:45,020 --> 00:14:46,648
Put it back in Manoli, let's go.
317
00:15:07,810 --> 00:15:11,500
I'm running out of smoke
here, gotta get out.
318
00:15:15,420 --> 00:15:17,080
You've got two materials here.
319
00:15:17,080 --> 00:15:18,410
You've got the bees wax,
320
00:15:18,410 --> 00:15:21,350
which is this perfect hexagonal prism.
321
00:15:21,350 --> 00:15:24,630
It's a chamber that holds the honey inside
322
00:15:24,630 --> 00:15:27,037
and look at that honey, it's beautiful.
323
00:15:28,395 --> 00:15:29,787
And the honey,
324
00:15:29,787 --> 00:15:30,940
the honey, you eat.
325
00:15:30,940 --> 00:15:32,370
You can do a lot of things, cook with it.
326
00:15:32,370 --> 00:15:35,650
And the wax, the bees wax,
they use it for candle.
327
00:15:35,650 --> 00:15:38,120
Nothing gets thrown away,
everything gets used.
328
00:15:38,120 --> 00:15:39,995
It's absolutely awesome.
329
00:15:41,930 --> 00:15:44,170
You're an absolute gentleman
and you're always smiling.
330
00:15:44,170 --> 00:15:45,610
I love you for that, mate.
331
00:15:49,570 --> 00:15:51,760
Bees are under threat across the globe.
332
00:15:51,760 --> 00:15:55,480
In some places, they're
already completely wiped down.
333
00:15:55,480 --> 00:15:57,600
This shouldn't be taken too lightly.
334
00:15:57,600 --> 00:16:00,410
According to the Royal
Geographic Society in London,
335
00:16:00,410 --> 00:16:04,200
the bee is the most important
living thing on earth.
336
00:16:04,200 --> 00:16:06,720
And Einstein predicted that
if bees become extinct,
337
00:16:06,720 --> 00:16:09,223
four years later, humans would too.
338
00:16:24,890 --> 00:16:26,760
The Fournoi archipelago is made up of
339
00:16:26,760 --> 00:16:30,770
16 picturesque islands,
but only two are inhabited,
340
00:16:30,770 --> 00:16:32,580
including the Island of Thymena,
341
00:16:32,580 --> 00:16:34,430
which you can see in the distance.
342
00:16:34,430 --> 00:16:36,340
The other unpopulated land masses
343
00:16:36,340 --> 00:16:38,510
have little more to offer
the inquisitive traveler
344
00:16:38,510 --> 00:16:40,640
than their majestic geography.
345
00:16:40,640 --> 00:16:43,340
Other than sheltering
yachts and fishing boats,
346
00:16:43,340 --> 00:16:46,310
you'll come across very
little in their pretty bays.
347
00:16:46,310 --> 00:16:48,810
The feeling of isolation appeals to me.
348
00:16:48,810 --> 00:16:51,380
Nothing's more enjoyable than
swimming at a pristine beach
349
00:16:51,380 --> 00:16:54,020
with only your thoughts to bother you.
350
00:16:54,020 --> 00:16:56,480
One of the few things that
does compare in enjoyment
351
00:16:56,480 --> 00:16:58,130
is Kiriakos cooking.
352
00:16:58,130 --> 00:17:01,030
He always insists we try to
eat the freshest of produce
353
00:17:01,030 --> 00:17:03,070
sourced from the island we're visiting.
354
00:17:03,070 --> 00:17:05,960
In this instance, he was keen
to cook something special
355
00:17:05,960 --> 00:17:07,610
for my son, Irinius,
356
00:17:07,610 --> 00:17:11,253
in fact, his favorite
meal, honey glazed goat.
357
00:17:24,330 --> 00:17:27,320
- We're on the island of Thymena,
358
00:17:27,320 --> 00:17:29,480
which is part of the archipelago
359
00:17:29,480 --> 00:17:31,690
of all the Fournoi islands,
there's 16 islands.
360
00:17:31,690 --> 00:17:32,770
This is the second biggest
361
00:17:32,770 --> 00:17:34,979
and the second that is inhabited.
362
00:17:34,979 --> 00:17:36,550
There's 130 people that live here,
363
00:17:36,550 --> 00:17:37,980
but we've come here for a special reason.
364
00:17:37,980 --> 00:17:39,343
It's not the sorta place
that you come for tourism,
365
00:17:39,343 --> 00:17:40,600
I gotta tell ya.
366
00:17:40,600 --> 00:17:42,988
130 people, there's not much here.
367
00:17:42,988 --> 00:17:47,677
Thyme, that herb, thyme is
what this island is about
368
00:17:47,677 --> 00:17:49,210
and it's actually called thyme.
369
00:17:49,210 --> 00:17:52,990
Thymena means thymari,
thymari is Greek for thyme.
370
00:17:52,990 --> 00:17:56,710
And we've come here to collect
herbs, herbs for cooking.
371
00:17:58,526 --> 00:18:00,550
We got the key, we got
the tools, let's go!
372
00:18:07,030 --> 00:18:08,930
It's a treasure trove of herbs.
373
00:18:08,930 --> 00:18:10,860
Look at all of this, the purple.
374
00:18:10,860 --> 00:18:12,250
The purple is the thyme.
375
00:18:12,250 --> 00:18:13,130
It's blossoming now
376
00:18:13,130 --> 00:18:15,850
and it'll blossom for
the next couple of weeks.
377
00:18:15,850 --> 00:18:19,100
After that, it turns to
green and brown colors
378
00:18:19,100 --> 00:18:21,280
and you can't recognize it.
379
00:18:21,280 --> 00:18:24,730
There's oregano behind
me, there's mountain tea.
380
00:18:24,730 --> 00:18:28,350
There's camomile, everything's
here, it's awesome.
381
00:18:28,350 --> 00:18:31,836
And it's for free or at
least someone just landed
382
00:18:31,836 --> 00:18:33,690
and they don't know we're here.
383
00:18:33,690 --> 00:18:37,580
And what we do with this,
384
00:18:37,580 --> 00:18:40,170
we'll hang it on the
boat and let it dry out.
385
00:18:40,170 --> 00:18:41,170
Once it's dried out,
386
00:18:42,152 --> 00:18:44,105
Kiriako does something with it,
387
00:18:49,210 --> 00:18:52,670
We're gonna put fresh stuff
on the goat today, apparently.
388
00:18:52,670 --> 00:18:54,420
This dries out to a beautiful herb.
389
00:19:09,470 --> 00:19:12,340
Now I can't get out of
here, what are we gonna do?
390
00:19:12,340 --> 00:19:13,846
- I come to push you.
- Okay.
391
00:19:20,903 --> 00:19:23,653
- This is a very dangerous sport.
392
00:19:24,990 --> 00:19:26,356
They're beautiful smells here.
393
00:19:29,110 --> 00:19:30,603
Fantastic, let me have a look at it.
394
00:19:31,510 --> 00:19:33,090
- So we've got sage here
395
00:19:35,142 --> 00:19:35,975
and it smells beautiful.
396
00:19:43,560 --> 00:19:46,810
So we have oregano here or
as Americans say oregano.
397
00:19:46,810 --> 00:19:49,550
Now, oregano is good for everything.
398
00:19:49,550 --> 00:19:52,850
Whether it's on your salad,
on your meat, it's awesome.
399
00:19:52,850 --> 00:19:53,960
But what you gotta do,
400
00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:56,070
like sage, you gotta let it dry out
401
00:19:56,070 --> 00:19:58,190
in the sun for a while and we'll do that.
402
00:19:58,190 --> 00:20:00,130
And then this fresh
oregano, you know what?
403
00:20:00,130 --> 00:20:03,970
My mother used to just
keep it in a plastic bag,
404
00:20:03,970 --> 00:20:07,070
dry it out and then what
you do once it's dried out
405
00:20:07,070 --> 00:20:09,360
on top of the food, she just do this
406
00:20:09,360 --> 00:20:10,890
and they just sprinkle on top.
407
00:20:10,890 --> 00:20:12,860
It's like a little shaker,
like a pepper shaker.
408
00:20:12,860 --> 00:20:13,977
Look at that, awesome.
409
00:20:13,977 --> 00:20:15,563
I better not to get rid of it all.
410
00:20:16,750 --> 00:20:18,780
My mother, God bless her soul,
411
00:20:18,780 --> 00:20:22,640
introduced me to one of the
nicest herbs this world has.
412
00:20:22,640 --> 00:20:24,188
This is actually a great herb.
413
00:20:24,188 --> 00:20:25,116
It's gotta be a Greek herb.
414
00:20:30,680 --> 00:20:33,100
I reckon you're right.
415
00:20:33,100 --> 00:20:36,440
What Kiriako was saying is
that, here you get a massage,
416
00:20:36,440 --> 00:20:38,840
you get scarified, your legs get scarified
417
00:20:38,840 --> 00:20:41,430
from all the spiny stuff.
418
00:20:41,430 --> 00:20:43,362
Let's keep going, I can see
some rosemary over there.
419
00:20:49,181 --> 00:20:50,930
All the effort of
collecting the fresh herbs
420
00:20:50,930 --> 00:20:53,020
meant we earned ourselves a feast
421
00:20:53,020 --> 00:20:56,010
and of all days to reward our
efforts with a hearty lunch,
422
00:20:56,010 --> 00:20:57,700
I picked the best one.
423
00:20:57,700 --> 00:21:00,400
Once the herbs were tied
up on the rear deck to dry,
424
00:21:00,400 --> 00:21:01,823
it was time to cook lunch.
425
00:21:02,790 --> 00:21:04,220
For those of you at home,
426
00:21:04,220 --> 00:21:06,310
you might wanna record this segment
427
00:21:06,310 --> 00:21:09,530
because this is one of the best
recipes you'll come across.
428
00:21:09,530 --> 00:21:11,380
Despite its simplicity,
429
00:21:11,380 --> 00:21:14,960
Kiriako's honey glazed goat is to die for.
430
00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:18,620
All you need is the meat, a bit of salt,
431
00:21:18,620 --> 00:21:23,620
one onion, some rosemary, two
oranges and honey, that's it.
432
00:21:24,120 --> 00:21:26,290
So we've got the leg of the goat.
433
00:21:26,290 --> 00:21:27,445
Let's just have a look at this way.
434
00:21:27,445 --> 00:21:29,360
Can you bring it up?
435
00:21:29,360 --> 00:21:32,280
Look at that and we've got honey,
436
00:21:32,280 --> 00:21:34,980
we've got oranges, we've got onion.
437
00:21:34,980 --> 00:21:37,170
We've got salt from Kythira, awesome.
438
00:21:37,170 --> 00:21:38,470
And we've got Rosemary
439
00:21:38,470 --> 00:21:40,740
and all this goes together,
it makes honey goat
440
00:21:40,740 --> 00:21:41,573
and we're looking forward.
441
00:21:41,573 --> 00:21:43,280
What do we do first, Kiriako?
442
00:21:43,280 --> 00:21:44,450
What's the first thing we do?
443
00:21:46,800 --> 00:21:49,143
So we put salt on 'em, first off,
444
00:21:50,310 --> 00:21:51,910
plenty of Kythirian salt.
445
00:21:51,910 --> 00:21:55,010
Irinius and I had this meal
on Samothrace a year ago.
446
00:21:55,010 --> 00:21:57,460
Since then, he's asked countless times
447
00:21:57,460 --> 00:21:59,560
if we could have it again and in time,
448
00:21:59,560 --> 00:22:01,920
it's now become a
favorite dish of mine too.
449
00:22:01,920 --> 00:22:03,840
This is the first phase.
450
00:22:05,590 --> 00:22:08,589
200 degrees for about two hours.
451
00:22:12,400 --> 00:22:14,760
- That's the first
phase, let's throw it in.
452
00:22:16,390 --> 00:22:18,470
- It's easy, it seems easy.
453
00:22:18,470 --> 00:22:21,160
The kids should be doing this at home.
454
00:22:21,160 --> 00:22:23,180
With the juice of a couple of oranges
455
00:22:23,180 --> 00:22:26,170
and some of Manoli's local
honey, the job's complete.
456
00:22:26,170 --> 00:22:29,848
Look at that, man, look at that.
457
00:22:31,320 --> 00:22:32,240
- Yeah.
458
00:22:32,240 --> 00:22:34,927
So there's some juice
that the fat has gone into
459
00:22:34,927 --> 00:22:37,540
and it's mixing
beautifully, it's fantastic.
460
00:22:37,540 --> 00:22:38,430
Now, what are we to do?
461
00:22:38,430 --> 00:22:39,509
Orange juice?
462
00:22:40,342 --> 00:22:41,980
- There's the two
oranges that we've juiced
463
00:22:41,980 --> 00:22:44,290
and that goes on top, oh, wow.
464
00:22:44,290 --> 00:22:46,443
And then there's honey.
465
00:22:50,010 --> 00:22:52,570
A soup spoon of honey per leg.
466
00:22:52,570 --> 00:22:54,045
And I've gotta tell you,
have to look at that.
467
00:22:54,045 --> 00:22:56,620
Just look at the glaze on that.
468
00:22:56,620 --> 00:22:58,395
Well yeah, is that awesome?
469
00:23:06,980 --> 00:23:08,780
Half an hour again closed
470
00:23:08,780 --> 00:23:11,260
and then another half hour,
open and it's ready to go.
471
00:23:11,260 --> 00:23:12,093
It becomes crispy
472
00:23:12,093 --> 00:23:14,470
and I use these guys here
473
00:23:14,470 --> 00:23:17,344
because I can see something in the corner.
474
00:23:20,120 --> 00:23:21,670
He said he's gonna bring the potatoes out,
475
00:23:21,670 --> 00:23:22,610
look what he's done with these potatoes,
476
00:23:22,610 --> 00:23:24,280
they're fantastic.
477
00:23:24,280 --> 00:23:26,233
I better taste the other corner as well.
478
00:23:28,714 --> 00:23:30,190
So, we'll see you about in the hour
479
00:23:30,190 --> 00:23:31,933
with our beautiful honey goat.
480
00:23:33,350 --> 00:23:34,220
You're looking forward to this?
481
00:23:34,220 --> 00:23:35,053
- Can't wait.
482
00:23:35,053 --> 00:23:38,060
- It's coming, it's coming, it's coming.
483
00:23:38,060 --> 00:23:39,266
- It's around the corner.
484
00:23:42,180 --> 00:23:46,505
- Wow, is this good or what?
- My favorite dish.
485
00:23:46,505 --> 00:23:48,005
Okay mate, dig in.
486
00:23:48,930 --> 00:23:50,100
Here you go.
487
00:23:50,100 --> 00:23:52,280
This one's for you, there you go.
488
00:23:53,141 --> 00:23:55,550
Just weight, just the
weight, there you go.
489
00:23:55,550 --> 00:23:56,480
You're gonna have a few potatoes.
490
00:23:56,480 --> 00:23:57,811
You know what, get into it.
491
00:23:57,811 --> 00:23:59,820
Get into it son, get into it.
492
00:23:59,820 --> 00:24:01,350
Oh man, look at that.
493
00:24:02,421 --> 00:24:03,313
How is it, good?
494
00:24:04,336 --> 00:24:05,437
- The best.
495
00:24:05,437 --> 00:24:08,850
The best.
496
00:24:08,850 --> 00:24:10,203
I love this stuff.
497
00:24:15,830 --> 00:24:18,160
- We need Kiriako to come out here.
498
00:24:18,160 --> 00:24:19,330
- What we need to do
499
00:24:19,330 --> 00:24:21,600
is not take any clothes
back to Australia with us
500
00:24:21,600 --> 00:24:23,165
and put Kiriako in our bag.
501
00:24:23,998 --> 00:24:24,831
What do you reckon?
- Yeah.
502
00:24:24,831 --> 00:24:26,650
- Cheers buddy.
- Cheers.
503
00:24:26,650 --> 00:24:29,298
- Stin ygeiĆ” sas.
- Stin ygeiĆ” sas.
504
00:24:50,070 --> 00:24:55,070
This is a typical seaside
village in the island of Fournoi
505
00:24:55,460 --> 00:24:57,203
or should I say the islands of Fournoi.
506
00:24:57,203 --> 00:25:01,650
There's 16 islands around here,
two of which are inhabited.
507
00:25:01,650 --> 00:25:05,930
Thymena just over the road
here and Fournoi itself.
508
00:25:05,930 --> 00:25:07,030
And have a look at it.
509
00:25:08,460 --> 00:25:11,800
A couple of Tavernas, a beach,
510
00:25:11,800 --> 00:25:13,780
a little port for a
couple of fishing boats.
511
00:25:13,780 --> 00:25:15,310
It's absolutely awesome here.
512
00:25:15,310 --> 00:25:17,170
This is just one of those islands
513
00:25:17,170 --> 00:25:20,710
where everybody is just
absolutely awesome.
514
00:25:20,710 --> 00:25:25,020
Fournoi in Greek means ovens.
515
00:25:25,020 --> 00:25:27,864
This place was burned to
the ground many years ago
516
00:25:27,864 --> 00:25:30,050
for the charcoal out of the trees,
517
00:25:30,050 --> 00:25:33,220
but it's also called Corsiae,
pirates in French or Greek
518
00:25:33,220 --> 00:25:35,980
'cause the pirates used this archipelago
519
00:25:35,980 --> 00:25:39,750
for hiding their ships and then going off
520
00:25:39,750 --> 00:25:41,950
and doing their dirty
deeds and coming back.
521
00:25:42,870 --> 00:25:45,060
What's happened this century though,
522
00:25:45,060 --> 00:25:48,720
is the biggest find of sunken wrecks
523
00:25:48,720 --> 00:25:51,730
from antiquity all the way
up to the 19th century,
524
00:25:51,730 --> 00:25:52,980
58 of them.
525
00:25:52,980 --> 00:25:54,940
And it happened only
a couple of years ago.
526
00:25:54,940 --> 00:25:55,990
It's a big find
527
00:25:55,990 --> 00:25:59,833
and we're hoping to dive on one
or two of those old vessels.
528
00:26:02,290 --> 00:26:04,410
To explain what was found in these waters,
529
00:26:04,410 --> 00:26:07,430
we got in touch with Dr.
Georgios Koutsoflakis.
530
00:26:07,430 --> 00:26:10,080
He's one of the most experienced
underwater archeologists
531
00:26:10,080 --> 00:26:11,070
in Greece.
532
00:26:11,070 --> 00:26:14,750
In simple terms, between 2015 and 18,
533
00:26:14,750 --> 00:26:17,840
he and his team discovered 58 shipwrecks
534
00:26:17,840 --> 00:26:21,160
from the sixth century BC
right through to modern times.
535
00:26:21,160 --> 00:26:24,143
The scale of his find has
shaken the scientific world.
536
00:26:25,160 --> 00:26:27,940
- I suggest we have a
cluster of shipwrecks
537
00:26:27,940 --> 00:26:30,960
in the East side of the
Island around this area here,
538
00:26:30,960 --> 00:26:33,310
we have a good number of shipwrecks
539
00:26:33,310 --> 00:26:35,973
there located in a short stretch of land,
540
00:26:37,704 --> 00:26:40,260
a hundred, 150 meters long.
- Fantastic.
541
00:26:40,260 --> 00:26:42,660
- And the oldest wreck we're gonna visit
542
00:26:42,660 --> 00:26:45,220
is a shipwreck of the sixth century BC
543
00:26:45,220 --> 00:26:48,490
carrying a cargo of Samian amphoras.
544
00:26:48,490 --> 00:26:51,380
- How long now, Georgios,
will it take to go out there
545
00:26:51,380 --> 00:26:53,340
and do each wreck one by one
546
00:26:53,340 --> 00:26:56,200
and actually excavate the wrecks?
547
00:26:56,200 --> 00:26:58,600
- It's gonna take a few generations more.
548
00:26:58,600 --> 00:27:00,130
- Wow.
- Yeah.
549
00:27:00,130 --> 00:27:02,410
- So one wreck, how long is
it gonna take to do one wreck?
550
00:27:02,410 --> 00:27:04,680
- Well, if you have the finances
551
00:27:04,680 --> 00:27:06,410
and you have one period every year,
552
00:27:06,410 --> 00:27:08,850
it gonna take you at
least five or six years
553
00:27:08,850 --> 00:27:10,040
to finish one wreck.
554
00:27:10,040 --> 00:27:13,200
- Wow, so what have
we learned in that four years
555
00:27:13,200 --> 00:27:15,490
of you scanning those 58 wrecks?
556
00:27:15,490 --> 00:27:18,550
- So far, we
learned that this Fournoi
557
00:27:18,550 --> 00:27:19,920
was a pleasant gem,
558
00:27:19,920 --> 00:27:21,700
very commonly visited.
559
00:27:21,700 --> 00:27:25,290
It had a high navigational presence
560
00:27:25,290 --> 00:27:28,750
and this presence was scattered,
not just in one period,
561
00:27:28,750 --> 00:27:33,540
but already from the Archaic
to the 19th, 20th century AD.
562
00:27:33,540 --> 00:27:35,910
So basically what we have here is
563
00:27:35,910 --> 00:27:37,410
two and a half thousand years
564
00:27:37,410 --> 00:27:39,720
of the navigation history of the place.
565
00:27:39,720 --> 00:27:42,240
When we first came here in 2015,
566
00:27:42,240 --> 00:27:43,687
we knew very little about this place.
567
00:27:43,687 --> 00:27:46,373
It was a place never investigated before.
568
00:27:47,330 --> 00:27:48,690
There was evidence, of course,
569
00:27:48,690 --> 00:27:51,890
because we have all these
reports from local fishermen,
570
00:27:51,890 --> 00:27:54,310
from Cullenian sponge divers.
571
00:27:54,310 --> 00:27:57,410
So I had an idea that there
are things in the area,
572
00:27:57,410 --> 00:28:00,520
but nobody from my team expected
573
00:28:00,520 --> 00:28:02,810
these large number of shipwrecks.
574
00:28:02,810 --> 00:28:05,010
And do you rely a lot on the locals,
575
00:28:05,010 --> 00:28:06,780
on the sponge divers and the fishermen?
576
00:28:06,780 --> 00:28:10,500
- Yeah, it's the most efficient
information you can get.
577
00:28:10,500 --> 00:28:12,430
- And normally, they
may not be up and coming
578
00:28:12,430 --> 00:28:14,370
with that information,
but you're a Ikarian,
579
00:28:14,370 --> 00:28:15,620
you're from Ikaria.
580
00:28:15,620 --> 00:28:17,410
So you connect with these guys.
581
00:28:17,410 --> 00:28:19,530
- Yeah, I knew
how to gain their trust
582
00:28:19,530 --> 00:28:22,210
and if you gain their
trust, they're open books.
583
00:28:22,210 --> 00:28:24,340
- When you paint the
picture of an archeologist,
584
00:28:24,340 --> 00:28:26,260
people think that they're people that
585
00:28:26,260 --> 00:28:28,460
just go and excavate, but
you're more than that.
586
00:28:28,460 --> 00:28:30,190
There's a lot involved in it, isn't it?
587
00:28:30,190 --> 00:28:32,093
- First of
all, you need to study,
588
00:28:33,400 --> 00:28:34,360
study in a library.
589
00:28:34,360 --> 00:28:37,890
It's a part of the world
that nobody knows very well.
590
00:28:37,890 --> 00:28:40,950
That's, for one month of excavation,
591
00:28:40,950 --> 00:28:43,840
you need to spend several months
of studying the libraries.
592
00:28:43,840 --> 00:28:46,610
It's not that you understand
always immediately
593
00:28:46,610 --> 00:28:48,260
what you have found.
594
00:28:48,260 --> 00:28:50,296
George Bass, the great,
595
00:28:50,296 --> 00:28:51,367
the world archaeologist says
596
00:28:51,367 --> 00:28:52,707
the one, "The biggest discovers
597
00:28:52,707 --> 00:28:53,947
"are not happening in the field,
598
00:28:53,947 --> 00:28:55,847
"they are happening in the libraries."
599
00:28:59,500 --> 00:29:01,157
- Listening to
Georgios talking about
600
00:29:01,157 --> 00:29:04,180
how this was such a busy
merchant route in antiquity
601
00:29:04,180 --> 00:29:07,500
explains why it was also a
popular place for pirates.
602
00:29:07,500 --> 00:29:10,010
The bounty would have been
plentiful and lucrative
603
00:29:10,010 --> 00:29:13,130
plus they were lots of tiny
bays they could hide in.
604
00:29:13,130 --> 00:29:16,140
The most apparent remains from
the shipwrecks are in flora.
605
00:29:16,140 --> 00:29:18,060
These large clay jars
606
00:29:18,060 --> 00:29:21,050
were used to transport
goods like oil, wine
607
00:29:21,050 --> 00:29:22,960
grains and other produce.
608
00:29:22,960 --> 00:29:25,017
They littered the sea floor
and help me get an idea
609
00:29:25,017 --> 00:29:27,660
of the scale of their work here.
610
00:29:27,660 --> 00:29:30,020
That was the contents of a single vessel.
611
00:29:30,020 --> 00:29:31,520
And in just one of our dives,
612
00:29:31,520 --> 00:29:34,840
I saw six wrecks that spanned
a thousand years of history,
613
00:29:34,840 --> 00:29:36,863
all this in just 30 minutes under water.
614
00:29:42,340 --> 00:29:43,730
Diving on ancient wrecks
615
00:29:43,730 --> 00:29:46,120
isn't exactly like most people envisage.
616
00:29:46,120 --> 00:29:47,560
You're not swimming through the holes
617
00:29:47,560 --> 00:29:49,670
or the super structure of the ships.
618
00:29:49,670 --> 00:29:52,460
In the case of wrecks
200 years or more in age,
619
00:29:52,460 --> 00:29:54,560
all the timber and iron rots away
620
00:29:54,560 --> 00:29:56,760
and there's nothing
left the vessel itself,
621
00:29:56,760 --> 00:29:59,143
only the non-biodegradable contents,
622
00:30:00,110 --> 00:30:01,850
but from the material that remains,
623
00:30:01,850 --> 00:30:04,090
researches are able to learn quite a lot.
624
00:30:04,090 --> 00:30:06,570
For example, by studying these amphora
625
00:30:06,570 --> 00:30:08,650
and the different markings on their sides,
626
00:30:08,650 --> 00:30:11,700
they're able to identify its
place and date of origin.
627
00:30:11,700 --> 00:30:14,530
Using that information,
they can then piece together
628
00:30:14,530 --> 00:30:17,930
the exact route and time
of the ill-faded voyage,
629
00:30:17,930 --> 00:30:20,260
as well as the contents of the ship.
630
00:30:20,260 --> 00:30:21,910
From this raw information,
631
00:30:21,910 --> 00:30:23,020
they can get an understanding
632
00:30:23,020 --> 00:30:26,190
of the economic cycles of
different cities and countries.
633
00:30:26,190 --> 00:30:27,870
Researchers are able to paint a picture
634
00:30:27,870 --> 00:30:29,470
that explores the industrial
635
00:30:29,470 --> 00:30:32,210
and agricultural
capabilities of these places
636
00:30:32,210 --> 00:30:35,340
and the widest, social and
geopolitical fabric of society
637
00:30:35,340 --> 00:30:36,173
at the time.
638
00:30:36,173 --> 00:30:38,193
All of this can totally rewrite history.
639
00:30:40,110 --> 00:30:41,960
What else's the intrigue of this site
640
00:30:41,960 --> 00:30:44,200
is that this wreck from the sixth century
641
00:30:44,200 --> 00:30:46,220
sits at 45 meters,
642
00:30:46,220 --> 00:30:49,033
Beyond this are the murky
depths yet to be explored.
643
00:30:50,250 --> 00:30:51,230
Who knows?
644
00:30:51,230 --> 00:30:53,740
Once my island hopping
Odyssey is complete,
645
00:30:53,740 --> 00:30:55,910
I might just take to search
in Greece's sea floor
646
00:30:55,910 --> 00:30:57,897
and find what lies beyond.
647
00:31:20,350 --> 00:31:21,297
A lot of people ask me,
648
00:31:21,297 --> 00:31:23,960
"Pete, what is your favorite Island?"
649
00:31:23,960 --> 00:31:25,660
Yes, I've been to a hundred Greek islands,
650
00:31:25,660 --> 00:31:28,750
but I'm no expert and
it's a subjective thing
651
00:31:28,750 --> 00:31:31,440
because it could be a club
or it could be a beach
652
00:31:31,440 --> 00:31:33,220
or it could be a historian,
really different.
653
00:31:33,220 --> 00:31:37,003
But me for me, Fournoi is right up there.
654
00:31:38,260 --> 00:31:39,690
It's a quiet island.
655
00:31:39,690 --> 00:31:41,530
The people are so welcoming.
656
00:31:41,530 --> 00:31:46,530
I got to dive on one of the
most historic wreck dives
657
00:31:47,630 --> 00:31:49,460
this century.
658
00:31:49,460 --> 00:31:52,970
I got to swim at some wonderful beaches
659
00:31:52,970 --> 00:31:56,490
and I'm a builder, so I saw
some nice marble as well.
660
00:31:56,490 --> 00:32:00,030
But overall, the people,
you can't go by the people
661
00:32:00,030 --> 00:32:03,870
and these beautiful meadows,
the contours of this island,
662
00:32:03,870 --> 00:32:05,290
of these islands.
663
00:32:05,290 --> 00:32:09,110
It's almost like it's naked
and showing itself to you.
664
00:32:09,110 --> 00:32:10,487
The colors, just check this out.
665
00:32:10,487 --> 00:32:12,173
It's just so good,
666
00:32:13,160 --> 00:32:15,400
but I don't necessarily want
you to come here in drones
667
00:32:15,400 --> 00:32:17,610
because I don't wanna ruin the place
668
00:32:17,610 --> 00:32:18,860
'cause I wanna come back.
669
00:32:22,710 --> 00:32:24,190
Occasionally I'll come across an island
670
00:32:24,190 --> 00:32:25,440
that leaves me with a sense that
671
00:32:25,440 --> 00:32:27,150
I could have hung around all summer
672
00:32:27,150 --> 00:32:29,520
and read a few books while
sitting on the beach.
673
00:32:29,520 --> 00:32:31,130
Fournoi was one of those,
674
00:32:31,130 --> 00:32:32,670
but our time there was limited
675
00:32:32,670 --> 00:32:34,310
and my journey was headed West
676
00:32:34,310 --> 00:32:36,190
to an island that's similarly quiet.
677
00:32:36,190 --> 00:32:37,900
However, it's well known to Greeks
678
00:32:37,900 --> 00:32:40,960
and those that study
the human species alike.
679
00:32:40,960 --> 00:32:42,200
I couldn't wait to get there
680
00:32:42,200 --> 00:32:43,630
because I'd read more about this place
681
00:32:43,630 --> 00:32:45,310
than any other on this trip.
682
00:32:45,310 --> 00:32:47,210
This was gonna be my first time visiting
683
00:32:47,210 --> 00:32:48,880
the Island of Ikaria.
684
00:32:48,880 --> 00:32:49,880
And for someone who's been to
685
00:32:49,880 --> 00:32:52,970
as many Greek islands as I
have, that's quite a statement.
686
00:32:52,970 --> 00:32:55,720
In 2012, it was labeled a Blue Zone,
687
00:32:55,720 --> 00:32:57,860
which means it's one
of a handful of places
688
00:32:57,860 --> 00:33:00,280
where the people live
for a very long time.
689
00:33:00,280 --> 00:33:02,120
But that's just one of
the things about Ikaria
690
00:33:02,120 --> 00:33:03,500
that interests me.
691
00:33:03,500 --> 00:33:05,510
We've just modeled into Ikaria.
692
00:33:05,510 --> 00:33:08,350
This is Evdilos, one of the main ports.
693
00:33:08,350 --> 00:33:09,630
Used to be the national capital,
694
00:33:09,630 --> 00:33:11,530
but this is not typical of Ikaria.
695
00:33:11,530 --> 00:33:14,250
Ikaria has like 52 villages
696
00:33:14,250 --> 00:33:15,780
and a lot of smaller settlements.
697
00:33:15,780 --> 00:33:17,330
And if you like Bob Marley,
698
00:33:17,330 --> 00:33:18,275
well you're gonna love this place,
699
00:33:18,275 --> 00:33:20,320
'cause there's a lot of Rastafarians here.
700
00:33:20,320 --> 00:33:21,370
But more importantly,
701
00:33:22,280 --> 00:33:24,810
there's a lot of people that
live into their hundreds.
702
00:33:24,810 --> 00:33:28,530
They say that this is the island
where people forgot to die
703
00:33:28,530 --> 00:33:30,740
because they live forever.
704
00:33:30,740 --> 00:33:33,180
I don't know if it's the diet,
the community, what they do,
705
00:33:33,180 --> 00:33:35,720
but I'm gonna find out because already
706
00:33:35,720 --> 00:33:36,960
I'm feeling good about this place.
707
00:33:36,960 --> 00:33:37,960
I'm feeling younger.
708
00:33:40,530 --> 00:33:43,290
This part of the island is
the more civilized area.
709
00:33:43,290 --> 00:33:44,520
Through the heart of Ikaria,
710
00:33:44,520 --> 00:33:46,490
it's quite rugged and mountainous.
711
00:33:46,490 --> 00:33:49,130
For the most part, despite
its international fame
712
00:33:49,130 --> 00:33:50,710
and rising popularity,
713
00:33:50,710 --> 00:33:52,420
the place hasn't become overdeveloped
714
00:33:52,420 --> 00:33:54,030
and filled with tourists.
715
00:33:54,030 --> 00:33:56,210
The locals have remained
true to their past,
716
00:33:56,210 --> 00:33:58,620
which is perhaps one of the
reasons for their long lives.
717
00:33:58,620 --> 00:34:01,150
It's a sleepy port full
of taverns and bars
718
00:34:01,150 --> 00:34:03,200
with tables right on the water's edge.
719
00:34:03,200 --> 00:34:04,810
but things move slowly here
720
00:34:04,810 --> 00:34:06,840
so don't expect an early breakfast.
721
00:34:06,840 --> 00:34:08,780
On the plus side, if you're a night owl
722
00:34:08,780 --> 00:34:10,243
things stay open quite late here,
723
00:34:10,243 --> 00:34:12,393
like most of Greece, just keep it down
724
00:34:12,393 --> 00:34:14,825
because I'm early to bed.
725
00:34:16,520 --> 00:34:19,060
Lots of hitchhikers in
Ikaria, it's famous for it.
726
00:34:19,060 --> 00:34:20,143
Hang on, hang on.
727
00:34:23,058 --> 00:34:24,310
- Armenistis.
728
00:34:24,310 --> 00:34:25,780
- Let's go.
729
00:34:25,780 --> 00:34:28,190
I've never picked up
hitchhikers in my life
730
00:34:28,190 --> 00:34:30,090
but it's Ikaria and it's famous for it
731
00:34:30,090 --> 00:34:31,260
so I'm picking you up.
- Great.
732
00:34:31,260 --> 00:34:33,170
- Now, Armenistis, it's not
too far from here, is it?
733
00:34:33,170 --> 00:34:35,300
- No, no, it's about five kilometers.
734
00:34:35,300 --> 00:34:36,283
- What's your name?
735
00:34:36,283 --> 00:34:38,123
- Eleney.
- Agiliki.
736
00:34:38,123 --> 00:34:39,870
- Agiliki, I'm Panalloti, let's go.
737
00:34:39,870 --> 00:34:41,465
- Thank you very much.
- Thank you very much.
738
00:34:41,465 --> 00:34:44,220
- So tell me, do you hitchhike much?
739
00:34:44,220 --> 00:34:46,420
Do you hitchhike a lot?
- No, only here.
740
00:34:46,420 --> 00:34:48,868
- Only here, I mean Ikaria.
741
00:34:48,868 --> 00:34:50,080
- My first time.
742
00:34:50,080 --> 00:34:51,663
- Your first time?
- My first time too.
743
00:34:51,663 --> 00:34:53,420
- Because Ikaria is famous,
744
00:34:53,420 --> 00:34:56,356
that people hitchhike in Ikaria.
745
00:34:56,356 --> 00:34:58,173
- Yes, over here, yeah.
746
00:34:59,476 --> 00:35:01,025
- Where are you from?
747
00:35:01,025 --> 00:35:02,625
- Athens.
- Athens.
748
00:35:04,600 --> 00:35:07,390
I tell you, your English is very good.
749
00:35:07,390 --> 00:35:09,290
- Thanks, I'm an English teacher.
750
00:35:09,290 --> 00:35:11,210
- Wow, we picked up hitchhikers
751
00:35:11,210 --> 00:35:12,230
and she's an English teacher.
752
00:35:12,230 --> 00:35:14,130
We're laughing, right.
753
00:35:14,130 --> 00:35:15,901
- That's why I am with her.
754
00:35:15,901 --> 00:35:17,232
- Well, that's fantastic.
755
00:35:17,232 --> 00:35:18,690
- I always feel safe.
756
00:35:18,690 --> 00:35:20,055
- But you know what?
757
00:35:20,055 --> 00:35:21,400
I think in Ikaria you don't have to worry
758
00:35:21,400 --> 00:35:23,137
about speaking English in Ikaria.
759
00:35:23,137 --> 00:35:24,827
- Sure.
- Yeah.
760
00:35:24,827 --> 00:35:27,260
But why do you come to Ikaria?
761
00:35:27,260 --> 00:35:29,670
What is it about Ikaria
that brings you here?
762
00:35:29,670 --> 00:35:31,503
I always wanted to come here.
763
00:35:31,503 --> 00:35:33,916
This is a dream island.
764
00:35:33,916 --> 00:35:34,770
That's everything.
765
00:35:34,770 --> 00:35:35,883
- Really?
- Sure.
766
00:35:36,790 --> 00:35:39,813
Mountains, sea, the sea is wonderful.
767
00:35:40,800 --> 00:35:43,153
The people are great, easygoing.
768
00:35:44,200 --> 00:35:46,130
It's a great place to be
769
00:35:46,130 --> 00:35:47,973
if you wanna relax a little bit.
770
00:35:49,747 --> 00:35:53,170
It's a dream come true for me.
771
00:35:53,170 --> 00:35:55,280
- Especially coming from Athens where
772
00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:57,370
it's hot in summer, isn't it?
773
00:35:57,370 --> 00:36:01,050
Aren't you scared doing this hitchhiking
774
00:36:01,050 --> 00:36:02,643
with somebody you don't even know?
775
00:36:05,105 --> 00:36:05,938
- I'm not afraid.
776
00:36:05,938 --> 00:36:07,100
- You're not because
you've done this before,
777
00:36:07,100 --> 00:36:08,317
it happens in Ikaria.
778
00:36:09,897 --> 00:36:11,710
- I just trust people too easily.
779
00:36:11,710 --> 00:36:13,430
- Well, it's Ikaria
780
00:36:14,513 --> 00:36:16,520
maybe you might not hitchhike in New York
781
00:36:16,520 --> 00:36:18,930
or something like that,
or London, but here,
782
00:36:18,930 --> 00:36:20,350
what about the food in Ikaria?
783
00:36:20,350 --> 00:36:21,570
Is it good?
784
00:36:21,570 --> 00:36:22,670
- Yes.
- Really?
785
00:36:22,670 --> 00:36:23,503
- Homemade food.
786
00:36:23,503 --> 00:36:25,680
- All homemade food.
- Yes
787
00:36:25,680 --> 00:36:28,209
- Great, really amazing.
788
00:36:28,209 --> 00:36:30,550
- And you're Greek so if you're
saying that it must be good.
789
00:36:30,550 --> 00:36:31,540
- It is.
790
00:36:31,540 --> 00:36:33,699
Go to Murayo, they have nice things.
791
00:36:33,699 --> 00:36:35,123
- Where?
- Murayo
792
00:36:35,123 --> 00:36:36,888
- Murayo, well, we'll have to try.
793
00:36:36,888 --> 00:36:37,903
We'll have to give it a shot.
794
00:36:39,030 --> 00:36:40,780
After dropping the ladies at the beach,
795
00:36:40,780 --> 00:36:42,520
I continued up a mountain road.
796
00:36:42,520 --> 00:36:44,830
The higher I got, the cooler it became.
797
00:36:44,830 --> 00:36:47,330
At sea level, it was 35 degrees Celsius.
798
00:36:47,330 --> 00:36:50,730
But up here, it was a
much more bearable 26.
799
00:36:50,730 --> 00:36:52,200
If it wasn't so pleasant,
800
00:36:52,200 --> 00:36:54,340
I probably wouldn't have
been so keen to go hiking,
801
00:36:54,340 --> 00:36:55,850
which was exactly the reason I was headed
802
00:36:55,850 --> 00:36:57,967
for the town of Christos Rachon.
803
00:36:57,967 --> 00:36:59,454
There I was meeting with a local
804
00:36:59,454 --> 00:37:00,555
who was gonna take me on a walk
805
00:37:00,555 --> 00:37:02,616
from one side of the island to the other.
806
00:37:02,616 --> 00:37:04,668
It sounded like a daunting task,
807
00:37:04,668 --> 00:37:06,542
but I was sure that I'd
be able to handle it.
808
00:37:21,845 --> 00:37:24,451
I'm here in Christos Rachon
809
00:37:24,451 --> 00:37:25,514
and I'm meeting with one of the locals
810
00:37:25,514 --> 00:37:27,150
who's gonna take me around.
811
00:37:27,150 --> 00:37:30,122
Problem is, he's asked
to meet at the bakery
812
00:37:30,122 --> 00:37:32,120
and I don't think he realized
how much I love bakeries.
813
00:37:32,120 --> 00:37:33,953
We're gonna be stuck there for a while.
814
00:37:38,360 --> 00:37:39,193
Smells good.
815
00:37:50,150 --> 00:37:52,550
Every village in Greece has two businesses
816
00:37:52,550 --> 00:37:54,950
that locals will visit on a daily basis.
817
00:37:54,950 --> 00:37:57,540
There's the kafenio and the forno,
818
00:37:57,540 --> 00:37:59,290
which in Greek means the bakery.
819
00:37:59,290 --> 00:38:01,020
It's not hard to find
the latter of the two.
820
00:38:01,020 --> 00:38:02,900
You just need to follow your nose.
821
00:38:02,900 --> 00:38:04,050
There, you'll find the staples
822
00:38:04,050 --> 00:38:06,380
like fresh bread and cheese pies.
823
00:38:06,380 --> 00:38:08,710
Some even make pastries and other sweets.
824
00:38:08,710 --> 00:38:11,120
This particular bakery
has a long tradition
825
00:38:11,120 --> 00:38:12,560
and a great story too.
826
00:38:12,560 --> 00:38:15,750
It also happens to be one
of Lefteris' favorites.
827
00:38:15,750 --> 00:38:17,250
Lefteris, I don't know if it's a good idea
828
00:38:17,250 --> 00:38:18,910
that we met at the bakery again.
829
00:38:18,910 --> 00:38:20,670
It's not good for this, mate
830
00:38:20,670 --> 00:38:22,140
but listen, I hear there's
a story behind this bakery,
831
00:38:22,140 --> 00:38:23,580
what is it, mate?
832
00:38:23,580 --> 00:38:25,953
- This bakery is the
traditional bakery of Christos.
833
00:38:25,953 --> 00:38:28,800
It tend to be a bit famous because
834
00:38:28,800 --> 00:38:32,170
one of the previous persons
that were operating the bakery,
835
00:38:32,170 --> 00:38:35,360
he had a peculiar approach of the work.
836
00:38:35,360 --> 00:38:37,310
Actually he had to do much more stuff.
837
00:38:37,310 --> 00:38:39,290
So he was producing the
bread in the morning
838
00:38:39,290 --> 00:38:41,660
and he was leaving the
bread without anybody
839
00:38:41,660 --> 00:38:45,015
else inside the bakery,
because he was also a farmer,
840
00:38:45,015 --> 00:38:48,480
a fisherman, a winemaker.
841
00:38:48,480 --> 00:38:50,210
So he had to keep working.
842
00:38:50,210 --> 00:38:51,160
- He just left the bread out there?
843
00:38:51,160 --> 00:38:52,870
- Yeah, and he was coming
later in the midday
844
00:38:52,870 --> 00:38:54,615
to collect the money and close the bakery.
845
00:38:54,615 --> 00:38:56,210
- People would just leave
the money on the counter?
846
00:38:56,210 --> 00:38:57,050
- Yeah.
- And that was it?
847
00:38:57,050 --> 00:38:59,820
- Yeah, but it was not that
he was not interested to work
848
00:38:59,820 --> 00:39:00,790
or he was lazy,
849
00:39:00,790 --> 00:39:03,735
he had to do the rest of the daily stuff.
850
00:39:03,735 --> 00:39:05,840
- His work, it was a trust thing.
851
00:39:05,840 --> 00:39:07,466
- Yeah, it was a matter of trust.
852
00:39:07,466 --> 00:39:09,340
- Man, I don't know if that
would work outside Ikaria,
853
00:39:09,340 --> 00:39:10,299
I could tell you.
854
00:39:10,299 --> 00:39:13,810
These Ikarians, they're
very trustworthy people
855
00:39:13,810 --> 00:39:16,260
but I'll tell you what,
this tiropita is awesome.
856
00:39:17,570 --> 00:39:18,905
We need the energy today.
857
00:39:20,210 --> 00:39:21,190
Don't walk me too far.
858
00:39:21,190 --> 00:39:22,753
Not too far, okay.
- Not too far.
859
00:39:22,753 --> 00:39:25,663
- Maximum 50 kilometers, maximum.
860
00:39:34,870 --> 00:39:37,860
So Lefteri, what's
significant about this Gorge?
861
00:39:37,860 --> 00:39:40,420
- This is one of the
natura zones of the Island,
862
00:39:40,420 --> 00:39:43,290
which means that it's an
important bio-diversity area.
863
00:39:43,290 --> 00:39:47,090
And also it used to be the
Holy garden of goddess Artemis
864
00:39:47,090 --> 00:39:50,580
because she was the protector
of the wildlife and nature.
865
00:39:50,580 --> 00:39:53,990
And she was the only person
who was allowed to hunt.
866
00:39:53,990 --> 00:39:56,920
So this was a technique for the societies
867
00:39:56,920 --> 00:39:58,640
in the prehistoric time,
868
00:39:58,640 --> 00:40:02,742
they were dedicating important
natural areas to gods
869
00:40:02,742 --> 00:40:07,040
so as to keep them safe from human impact.
870
00:40:07,040 --> 00:40:09,940
- Wow, so there was
sustainability back then?
871
00:40:09,940 --> 00:40:13,900
- Yeah, and this is the viewpoint.
872
00:40:13,900 --> 00:40:15,730
Above the Raksounia waterfall
873
00:40:15,730 --> 00:40:18,770
that we can see the main secondary river
874
00:40:18,770 --> 00:40:20,770
of the Kalahari Gorge
875
00:40:20,770 --> 00:40:23,324
and the main one which is
coming from the Peso plateau.
876
00:40:23,324 --> 00:40:24,157
- Have a look at it, man.
877
00:40:24,157 --> 00:40:25,890
- Yeah.
- Awesome.
878
00:40:29,463 --> 00:40:32,030
Ikaria is a land of dramatic landscapes
879
00:40:32,030 --> 00:40:34,260
and an equally theatrical mythology.
880
00:40:34,260 --> 00:40:36,430
According to legend, the goddess Artemis
881
00:40:36,430 --> 00:40:37,710
would come here with her nymphs
882
00:40:37,710 --> 00:40:39,640
and hunt in the mountain forest.
883
00:40:39,640 --> 00:40:41,470
Then there's the story of Icarus
884
00:40:41,470 --> 00:40:44,440
who flew so close to the
sun that his wings melted
885
00:40:44,440 --> 00:40:47,060
and he plunged to his
death in the sea nearby.
886
00:40:47,060 --> 00:40:49,603
And of course, there's
the myth of Dionysus.
887
00:40:50,770 --> 00:40:52,240
So tell me the story of Dionysus.
888
00:40:52,240 --> 00:40:53,420
What's the story there?
889
00:40:53,420 --> 00:40:55,743
It's something that's
a bit weird, isn't it?
890
00:40:55,743 --> 00:40:58,080
- Ikaria is one of the islands
891
00:40:58,080 --> 00:41:03,080
which are believed to be the
spot where the god Dionysus
892
00:41:03,320 --> 00:41:08,320
was given birth from the foot of god Zeus.
893
00:41:08,370 --> 00:41:11,260
- But Dionysus was born
out of wedlock, wasn't he?
894
00:41:11,260 --> 00:41:13,880
- Yeah, it was an unofficial kid.
895
00:41:13,880 --> 00:41:15,730
That's why he was sent here
896
00:41:15,730 --> 00:41:20,510
to be safe from the wife
of Zeus, goddess Hera.
897
00:41:20,510 --> 00:41:22,780
- What do you mean safe from Hera, why?
898
00:41:22,780 --> 00:41:26,120
- Why, because normally the kids,
899
00:41:26,120 --> 00:41:28,590
the official and the
unofficial kids of god Zeus
900
00:41:28,590 --> 00:41:32,170
were about to fight for the throne
901
00:41:32,170 --> 00:41:33,890
of Mountain of Olympus.
902
00:41:33,890 --> 00:41:35,620
- I love mythology, it's awesome.
903
00:41:35,620 --> 00:41:38,070
I wish it was real because Zeus,
904
00:41:38,070 --> 00:41:39,250
he was a bit of a naughty boy.
905
00:41:39,250 --> 00:41:40,920
He was almost as bad
as Poseidon, wasn't he?
906
00:41:40,920 --> 00:41:44,620
He had many concubines and
it looks here.
907
00:41:44,620 --> 00:41:47,900
I meet some of the locals and
they're a bit like that too,
908
00:41:47,900 --> 00:41:49,130
I think, I don't know what the story is.
909
00:41:49,130 --> 00:41:50,510
That must be the Ikarian water.
910
00:41:50,510 --> 00:41:52,970
I've got no idea, but anyway,
911
00:41:52,970 --> 00:41:54,950
we should keep going,
this is a long walk, man.
912
00:41:54,950 --> 00:41:56,510
- Yeah.
- Which way to go?
913
00:41:56,510 --> 00:41:57,760
- We'll go back to the--
914
00:41:57,760 --> 00:41:58,960
- Okay, let's head, man.
915
00:42:02,210 --> 00:42:04,430
I reckon the guys that
were writing mythology,
916
00:42:04,430 --> 00:42:06,353
they're all deviates.
917
00:42:09,260 --> 00:42:11,800
From verdant gorges to
barren mountaintops,
918
00:42:11,800 --> 00:42:14,380
the landscapes of Ikaria are as varied
919
00:42:14,380 --> 00:42:16,200
as any other island in Greece.
920
00:42:16,200 --> 00:42:17,230
It's full of character
921
00:42:17,230 --> 00:42:20,360
and as the hike progressed,
the scenery kept changing.
922
00:42:20,360 --> 00:42:22,540
The common theme was
that it was all beautiful
923
00:42:22,540 --> 00:42:23,950
in its own way.
924
00:42:23,950 --> 00:42:26,607
Mind you, it was far from an easy walk.
925
00:42:29,710 --> 00:42:31,420
Well, this looks like
a bit of a moonscape.
926
00:42:31,420 --> 00:42:33,820
What's the story, there's
boulders everywhere.
927
00:42:33,820 --> 00:42:36,990
- We don't have any
proper geological research
928
00:42:36,990 --> 00:42:39,410
to share an actual answer,
929
00:42:39,410 --> 00:42:43,453
but this is like an open
museum of granite sculptures.
930
00:42:44,308 --> 00:42:47,040
And it keeps the landscape like this
931
00:42:47,040 --> 00:42:49,604
for many kilometers to the West.
932
00:42:59,650 --> 00:43:01,773
- So Lefteri, this is the
South part of the island?
933
00:43:01,773 --> 00:43:03,543
- Yes, now we are facing Southwest.
934
00:43:05,200 --> 00:43:07,610
- There's 52 villages
separated all over the place.
935
00:43:07,610 --> 00:43:08,443
What's the story?
936
00:43:08,443 --> 00:43:10,270
Why are they so remote?
937
00:43:10,270 --> 00:43:13,030
- There is a unique strategy
on the way that the people here
938
00:43:13,030 --> 00:43:14,570
decided to create their settlements.
939
00:43:14,570 --> 00:43:17,520
There's a unique approach
in the whole Mediterranean.
940
00:43:17,520 --> 00:43:18,600
In most of the islands,
941
00:43:18,600 --> 00:43:21,590
people used to have intense settlements
942
00:43:21,590 --> 00:43:24,240
and then they had to
build fortresses around
943
00:43:24,240 --> 00:43:26,020
just to defend themselves.
944
00:43:26,020 --> 00:43:28,810
The idea here, because
the island is described as
945
00:43:28,810 --> 00:43:32,010
Mediterranean jungle, people
decided to take advantage
946
00:43:32,010 --> 00:43:33,530
of the natural camouflage
947
00:43:33,530 --> 00:43:35,910
being spread on the nature
948
00:43:35,910 --> 00:43:38,710
and tried to be invisible from the coast.
949
00:43:38,710 --> 00:43:41,980
Instead of paying attention
on growing an army
950
00:43:41,980 --> 00:43:43,720
or being stand by to fight,
951
00:43:43,720 --> 00:43:45,220
they were taking care of their farms,
952
00:43:45,220 --> 00:43:48,170
living in remote zones
in the semi mountainous
953
00:43:48,170 --> 00:43:49,460
area of the island.
954
00:43:49,460 --> 00:43:51,250
- Now, listen, we've just
walked three or four hours
955
00:43:51,250 --> 00:43:53,670
from the other side of the island.
956
00:43:53,670 --> 00:43:55,416
Do we have to walk three
or four hours back now?
957
00:43:55,416 --> 00:43:58,500
- Yeah, unfortunately,
that's the way to go.
958
00:43:58,500 --> 00:44:00,703
- Let's go, it's just too much for me.
959
00:44:03,584 --> 00:44:04,917
The things I do.
960
00:44:07,060 --> 00:44:07,950
In the next episode,
961
00:44:07,950 --> 00:44:10,020
my time on Ikaria continues.
962
00:44:10,020 --> 00:44:13,080
As I leave the mountaintops
and explore the coastline,
963
00:44:13,080 --> 00:44:14,400
I'm gonna delve into the story
964
00:44:14,400 --> 00:44:15,950
of why the people here live so long
965
00:44:15,950 --> 00:44:18,540
and I'll be catching up
with an old friend to see
966
00:44:18,540 --> 00:44:20,830
what life is like in an authentic village
967
00:44:20,830 --> 00:44:22,710
then I'll be doing something
a bit more youthful
968
00:44:22,710 --> 00:44:24,270
and learning to surf.
969
00:44:24,270 --> 00:44:25,103
Of course, there's gonna be
970
00:44:25,103 --> 00:44:26,880
some more of Kiriakos' great cooking,
971
00:44:26,880 --> 00:44:28,350
plus a bit of a history lesson
972
00:44:28,350 --> 00:44:30,430
before we head on back and hit the Samos
973
00:44:30,430 --> 00:44:31,633
and just so you know,
974
00:44:31,633 --> 00:44:32,990
I only had to walk halfway back
975
00:44:32,990 --> 00:44:34,920
because the cameraman was
complaining about carrying
976
00:44:34,920 --> 00:44:37,170
all the gear and called
captain Yanni to pick us up.
977
00:44:37,170 --> 00:44:39,074
I was happy to hive.
75368
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