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The Eye of All the World, the ancients
called it,
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the heart of a lost empire that had
lasted for a thousand years and more.
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Saint Sofia, The Church of the
Divine Wisdom,
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this was their crowning glory,
the glory of Byzantium.
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The vanished Empire of Byzantium,
born of pagan Rome,
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Byzantium,
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the dream of a Christian Roman Empire
that stretched from Spain to Syria.
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Byzantium,
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whose influence ran from northern
Russia down to Nubia up on the Apennine.
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Byzantium, gateway to a lost chapter
of our past.
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The Orient Express, I first traveled
this line in the sixties.
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I bought a ticket at Waterloo Station
in London
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for a ride to Istanbul in Turkey,
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and a life long fascination.
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It took three days to get there.
It was hell on wheels, really,
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goats in the corridor and communism
out the window.
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And, all of a sudden, the train swung
round the bend and bang,
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the orient hit me in the face.
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A great golden city by the sea,
set between the east and west,
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you could see it had been the center
of the world.
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It was astonishing.
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But, come to Istanbul,
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and underneath, the magic ruins of
the lost Empire of Byzantium.
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The Orient Express stopped here,
in the heart of the old city.
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I got off it in clouds of smoke and
steam,
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haunted by the ghosts of Greta Garbo
and Agatha Christie
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by a thousand spies and archeologists,
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by the kings and courtesans,
of prewar Europe.
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Istanbul, one of the very greatest of
Islamic cities,
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with the monuments of the conquering
Turkish sultans
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who had ruled here since 1453,
dominating its skyline.
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Underneath, though, are much older
ghosts.
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Brushed each day by people of the
living city, the ruins of Constantinople,
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the capital city of the Empire of
Byzantium,
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Istanbul, Constantinople, two names,
new and old for the same grand city.
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Sixteen centuries ago,
in the year, 330,
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the Emperor Constantine, the first
Christian Roman emperor,
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chose this city, then a small Greek
town to be his capital.
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No one quite knows why.
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One thing is sure though,
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the great warrior emperors had left
Rome and the cities of the west forever.
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This mosque, the mosque of the Turkish
sultan who conquered the city,
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is built straight on the foundations
of the most ancient burial church
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of the mysterious emperors of old
Byzantium.
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What, then, was this most ancient half
forgotten empire, the Empire of
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Byzantium?
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Byzantium, that magic spicy word.
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Now, imagine that the empires of
Greece and Rome had never died
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but had been fused together in a single
empire, set between the east and west.
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And, imagine that the emperors of
this kingdom,
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the sacred emperors could be torn to
pieces by the mobs in the street,
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emperors who could mutilate their
courtiers and children,
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who killed their priest and blinded
whole armies of invaders.
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Yet, emperors whose artists made some
of the most finest, the most
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exquisite images the world has ever
seen,
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vision of heaven and earth, sublime
architectures,
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copied by everybody from the kaliphs
of Baghdad to the popes of Rome,
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the kings of Germany and the tribes
of Nubia,
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visions of heaven's order and earthly
power
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that sill lie deep within the modern
world.
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Just as this mosque, the Conqueror's
Mosque, stands on the ruins of
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Byzantium,
so do we all.
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This is where the Empire of Byzantium
began,
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beside this ancient column here on
Main Street,
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a lonely ancient relic in a modern
city.
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In the year of our Lord 330, on a
lovely May morning,
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the great procession came down this
road.
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It was the highway of an ancient city
called Byzantium.
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And, the procession was led by the
great Roman Emperor, Constantine.
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And he brought with him, a bunch of
priests, pagan and Christian ones,
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and they were all holding an
incredible collection of relics.
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There were twelve baskets filled with
crumbs, the residue it was said
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of our Lord's miracle of the loaves
and fishes.
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There was the very axe that Noah made
the Ark with
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and there was a statue that the
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Emperor himself had brought
secretly from Rome,
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the statue of the Greek god, Paris.
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And at the exact moment prescribed
by astrologers,
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they buried their relics just over
there, at the foot of the column,
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seven drums of palfrey brought from
the Egyptian deserts.
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And, Constantine renamed the city
Constantinople and claimed it as
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the capital of his grand new empire.
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You know, over the years the column
itself became to be seen as a relic
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and the Byzantines, that's the people
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who lived in this city,
called it Christ's Nail,
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because they thought that the great
golden statue of Constantine upon the top
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had something of one of the nails in
Christ's crucifixion built into it
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and every year on the New Year's Day,
that's the first of September,
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the Byzantines turned out at the
bottom of this column
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and sung hymns to Saint Constantine,
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the founder of their city and the
mighty empire called Byzantium.
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Constantinople was designed to be the
center of the Christian world,
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the center of Christ's government on
earth.
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These great cups were made to hold
the mystery of Christ's blood inside
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the city's churches,
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churches glowing with Roman gold
and ancient holy images,
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images that for a thousand years flooded
right through Europe and the east.
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This, then, is Byzantium's first
story.
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The story of how in two short
centuries the dream was made,
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the dream that was Byzantium.
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Constantine, the Christian emperor,
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the man who took the faith of Jesus
and the God of Abraham
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and created the beginning of the
governments and churches in
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which the west still trusts.
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He was crowned, they say,
in York, in England, in 306.
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For forty years, he killed foes and
family alike
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and when he died, people were so
frightened of him that no one touched
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his body for a week.
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This was the extent of Constantine's
ambition,
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the late Roman Empire with
Constantinople, not Rome as its capital.
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And in the far north, in Germany,
the City of Trier,
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the great imperial garrison, it still
shows something of what ancient
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Constantinople used to look like.
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The city gate still guarding
The Main Road into town,
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a great grim gate, like the rest of
the northern frontier,
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Trier was continuously threatened by
Huns and Goths and Vandals
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and a dozen other warrior nations.
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Constantine The Great, the emperor,
himself,
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would have walked down this same
passage sixteen hundred years ago.
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These vaults and arches are the
architecture of his time.
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Once you're through the gate,
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most Roman towns look much the same.
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They were, if you like, a sort of an
abstract idea of a city
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and they were stamped on every
landscape from Yorkshire to Syria.
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You can still sense their design in a
thousand old world cities
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and in the new world, too, from
Washington to San Francisco.
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Planners still use parts of the same
old patterns.
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All Roman towns had roads like this
one,
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wide thoroughfares that took you from
the country to the heart of the city.
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This one is at Palmyra in the
Syrian Dessert.
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In Constantinople it was called,
quite simply, The Main Road.
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Now, what you've got to see is that
behind all these columns
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there are little rows of shops running
down the sides of the street,
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butchers, bakers, candle makers,
all sorts of people.
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In Constantinople, it would have had
the goods of the known world,
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Africa, China, the Baltic, everything
was for sale.
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Just imagine the emperor is coming
in in triumph, he's won a war,
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he's coming through the gate,
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the shop keepers have been told to
dust down the streets,
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flowers have been strewn all over
the pavement,
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roses are raining down upon him,
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there are rugs and silks fluttering in
the breezes all around him,
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the whole town has been sucked out
to come and see him.
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Behind of course, behind the main
street are the town houses,
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servants, soldiers, all the people.
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There were taverns, brothels,
everything in a city.
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And in amongst those,
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studded in amongst those were those
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huge buildings that
Constantine had to build
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before his city could really be called
a Roman metropolis.
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It's only a little building, but it was
actually the heart of ancient Palmyra.
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It's the center, the oval office where
government was conducted,
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where the town elders met, where plots
were hatched, all that sort of thing.
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Of course, in Constantine's great
imperial cities,
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this would have been a vast long hall,
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and quiet often in the central hall of
government,
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great Constantine himself would have
sat where now the altars of
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Christian churches stand,
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because this is basically the same
building.
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In the year 360,
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Constantine's son built a magnificent
church at Constantinople
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especially for the drama of imperial
communion.
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Next door, those same pious emperors
built a giant racetrack,
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The Hippodrome.
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You can still see part of its outline
in the streets.
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And here at last,
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around this old Egyptian obelisk,
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you can discover something of the
atmosphere of ancient Constantinople,
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the heart of old Byzantium.
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This stone is like a giant mirror,
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reflecting all the life that once went
on around it.
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There's the emperor and his family,
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Constantine's successors come to the
royal box to start a chariot race.
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There's the obelisk in the middle to
the race track
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and the chariots, too, eight of them
running all at once.
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You would need a lot of luck to win.
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This place wasn't just a race track,
though.
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This is a place where people met their
emperor and his court.
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It's the air, the space of Byzantium,
a hundred thousand people roaring
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as new emperors are presented to them
as captives of foreign wars are
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brought and thrown at the feet of
the emperor.
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It's the old parliament.
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It's the real heart of Byzantium.
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And, that scene there, where've you
seen it before?
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Look at it carefully.
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The emperor is in the middle with his
family, just like God.
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Around them, stand the army and the
court, just like the saints.
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Beneath them,
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begging mercy, are Byzantium's
enemies, the damned.
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It's a grand last judgment right here
on earth,
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with the emperor playing God.
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So, that's it really,
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the emperor brings happiness and
harmony.
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The theater brings luck and victory.
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This is the center of the world,
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an image, you might say of heaven
on earth.
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So, if we had pushed open the gates
of the palace that once stood
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beside The Hippodrome,
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we would've really been opening the
earthly gates of paradise.
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Arcades of gold and marble,
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00:16:58,584 --> 00:17:01,382
silver boats on pools of mercury,
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silk carpets, golden thrones
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and halls of palfrey and bowls,
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all are gone,
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only echoes of them still remain in
Syria, in Italy.
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00:17:18,537 --> 00:17:22,667
Once though Constantinople held the
palace of all palaces,
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The Palace of the Christian Empire.
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Church, Hippodrome and palace,
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Constantine had made a sacred engine
that would power Byzantium forever.
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To protect the Holy City of
Constantinople,
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the emperors of Byzantium built the
largest city walls in all the world.
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Armies that controlled the lives of
millions road from these gates.
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And, through them passed the produce
of an empire.
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The whole history of this city is in
this gate,
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the Great Golden Gate of Imperial
Byzantium.
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You see that great high span at the
top?
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00:18:30,375 --> 00:18:32,639
That was once open to the skies.
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For six hundred years, emperors and
armies road through that gate
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00:18:36,315 --> 00:18:37,145
in triumph,
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00:18:37,282 --> 00:18:40,046
coming back from wars against the
Persians, the Arabs,
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00:18:40,185 --> 00:18:42,210
the Bulgarians, the Russians.
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00:18:42,721 --> 00:18:43,949
And then, there was an earthquake
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and the gate was blocked.
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00:18:47,392 --> 00:18:51,260
And, that final gate at the bottom
that even a cavalry man couldn't
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come through on a horse,
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that gate was built in the final years
of Byzantium.
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00:18:57,369 --> 00:18:58,927
So, this is a magic gate,
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00:18:59,071 --> 00:19:00,732
it's a gate of legends.
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00:19:00,873 --> 00:19:04,138
They say its wooden doors were covered
with sheets of gold to give the
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gate its name.
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They say that the very last emperor,
killed fighting on these walls,
231
00:19:09,882 --> 00:19:11,509
is buried beneath these stones,
232
00:19:11,650 --> 00:19:14,847
waiting for a call to take the city
once again.
233
00:19:15,420 --> 00:19:16,978
So, it's a gate of legend
234
00:19:17,122 --> 00:19:21,786
but above all it speaks of imperial
Byzantine power.
235
00:19:26,365 --> 00:19:29,459
Power to control innumerable lives.
236
00:19:29,801 --> 00:19:32,463
You know, there are thousands of
blocks in this gate
237
00:19:32,604 --> 00:19:35,038
and each one of them, each tiny mark
238
00:19:35,174 --> 00:19:40,202
upon them, made by an
individual human hand.
239
00:19:41,413 --> 00:19:45,850
Endless lives absorbed in making
millions of these blocks,
240
00:19:46,718 --> 00:19:50,381
enough to build the whole city of
Constantinople.
241
00:19:52,324 --> 00:19:56,761
Now, this snowy marble, strange gray
lines running through,
242
00:19:57,362 --> 00:19:59,660
is found all over the Byzantine
empire,
243
00:19:59,798 --> 00:20:02,631
from Spain to Syria and back to
Constantinople.
244
00:20:03,101 --> 00:20:06,400
But, it comes from one island only,
245
00:20:06,538 --> 00:20:08,972
one tiny island in the sea.
246
00:20:22,888 --> 00:20:27,848
Southwest of Istanbul, three days
sailing on an ancient slave ship,
247
00:20:28,126 --> 00:20:30,151
is the Isle of Marmara,
248
00:20:30,829 --> 00:20:33,798
its very name means stone.
249
00:21:06,665 --> 00:21:08,758
In the first centuries of Byzantium,
250
00:21:08,900 --> 00:21:13,132
slaves in their tens of thousands
worked in these marble hills.
251
00:21:17,442 --> 00:21:19,910
How the Byzantines loved marble.
252
00:21:20,345 --> 00:21:22,540
In marble, says a priest,
253
00:21:22,781 --> 00:21:26,547
God trapped fields of flowers and
mountain forests,
254
00:21:26,685 --> 00:21:30,485
and fish and fruit, and melting snows.
255
00:21:33,392 --> 00:21:37,021
The ancient blocks, still strewn
across the keys,
256
00:21:37,162 --> 00:21:41,929
hint of the frantic energy that was
once used to move their precious stone.
257
00:21:44,936 --> 00:21:48,565
Still inside the modern quarries,
an ancient stone that weighs around
258
00:21:48,707 --> 00:21:50,106
a hundred tons,
259
00:21:50,542 --> 00:21:52,703
part of it an enormous column
260
00:21:52,844 --> 00:21:56,837
to memorialize the military victories
of Byzantium.
261
00:21:58,116 --> 00:21:59,811
If it were finished,
262
00:22:00,152 --> 00:22:04,248
it would have had a spiral staircase
cut in it and rows of sculptured
263
00:22:04,389 --> 00:22:06,983
soldiers on it's turning surface.
264
00:22:09,594 --> 00:22:11,619
It's still here, though.
265
00:22:11,763 --> 00:22:13,663
It cracked as it was quarried.
266
00:22:21,707 --> 00:22:27,612
In ancient times these quarries were
called The Quarries of the Mother of God.
267
00:22:28,080 --> 00:22:29,945
It might just as well have been called
268
00:22:30,182 --> 00:22:32,844
The Quarries of the Mother of
Constantinople.
269
00:22:32,984 --> 00:22:35,179
The whole city was made here
270
00:22:35,320 --> 00:22:37,117
and it was pre-fab city.
271
00:22:37,389 --> 00:22:39,789
It wasn't just sent off in blocks,
everything was finished.
272
00:22:39,925 --> 00:22:42,325
If these had been finished, and gone
to Constantinople,
273
00:22:42,461 --> 00:22:46,830
each one would have been lettered,
it had its exact place in everyone
274
00:22:46,965 --> 00:22:49,058
of the ancient buildings of the city.
275
00:22:49,368 --> 00:22:53,031
This, for example is the very tip of
a building that would have looked
276
00:22:53,171 --> 00:22:55,036
like a Roman temple.
277
00:23:01,980 --> 00:23:03,880
Modern quarry masters tell me that
278
00:23:04,015 --> 00:23:09,715
they find the best new seams of marble
in the hills beside the ancient stones.
279
00:23:10,122 --> 00:23:12,215
This would be a good spot then.
280
00:23:12,657 --> 00:23:15,490
A giant lonely column shaft.
281
00:23:22,067 --> 00:23:23,796
I've seen that same shape,
282
00:23:23,935 --> 00:23:26,267
so called peacock's feather pattern
283
00:23:26,538 --> 00:23:31,908
cut on a broken column lying right on
The Main Street of Old Istanbul.
284
00:23:40,285 --> 00:23:45,086
This was once a marble square on a
highway at the middle of Constantinople.
285
00:23:48,193 --> 00:23:49,558
I don't suppose the Turks of modern
Istanbul
286
00:23:49,694 --> 00:23:52,857
think much about ancient Byzantine
victories.
287
00:23:54,032 --> 00:23:58,298
Yet, there's still some fragments here
of that great memorial column
288
00:23:58,437 --> 00:24:00,701
that made it all the way from Marmara.
289
00:24:02,441 --> 00:24:06,605
The ghosts of the imperial armies
still lining the boots of their
290
00:24:06,745 --> 00:24:08,736
processions through the city.
291
00:24:29,401 --> 00:24:32,734
Just as all the ancient roads and
sea lanes ran through the empire
292
00:24:32,871 --> 00:24:33,963
to Constantinople,
293
00:24:34,473 --> 00:24:36,600
so did the rivers of the region,
294
00:24:37,142 --> 00:24:42,444
channeled into great aqueducts
bringing treasured water to a thirsty city.
295
00:24:47,719 --> 00:24:54,784
Underneath the town, cut deep into its
hill top, an eerie underworld,
296
00:24:54,926 --> 00:24:59,829
some fifteen centuries old, fresh
water cisterns
297
00:25:00,065 --> 00:25:05,697
so that the Byzantines could bath just
like the Romans did, in marble halls.
298
00:25:12,477 --> 00:25:16,937
And, everything made with the dazzling
technology of ancient Rome,
299
00:25:17,082 --> 00:25:19,016
father of Byzantium.
300
00:25:23,288 --> 00:25:24,778
Marble columns,
301
00:25:25,156 --> 00:25:26,885
high brick vaults,
302
00:25:28,226 --> 00:25:32,526
the dark forest of Byzantium beneath
modern Istanbul.
303
00:25:38,436 --> 00:25:42,304
Those Greek letters harrowed into the
column with a chisel point,
304
00:25:42,440 --> 00:25:45,375
the marks of one of Marmara's
quarrymen.
305
00:25:54,486 --> 00:25:58,354
Food too, flooded into the enlarging
city,
306
00:25:58,757 --> 00:26:02,022
what a vast logistic exercise and
earthly miracle,
307
00:26:02,160 --> 00:26:07,655
supporting Constantinople's half a
million people, Europe's biggest city,
308
00:26:07,933 --> 00:26:10,663
and everything of course by hand.
309
00:26:11,002 --> 00:26:12,970
There was no food industry,
310
00:26:13,104 --> 00:26:17,006
everything was carried here in boats
and carts.
311
00:26:21,446 --> 00:26:25,815
The finest fish, the Byzantines
believed, were caught beside the
312
00:26:25,951 --> 00:26:27,509
emperor's palace,
313
00:26:27,786 --> 00:26:31,119
between the rising of the Pleiades
and the setting of the blood red
314
00:26:31,256 --> 00:26:33,224
star, Arcturus.
315
00:26:37,662 --> 00:26:42,326
Colors, smells and textures of the
ancient everyday,
316
00:26:43,034 --> 00:26:46,993
the raw ingredients of Byzantine
experience,
317
00:26:47,739 --> 00:26:50,731
the world of the ancient
Mediterranean.
318
00:27:00,418 --> 00:27:02,978
Just like the people of modern
Istanbul,
319
00:27:03,288 --> 00:27:07,622
the Byzantines loved fresh bread and
fresh vegetables.
320
00:27:07,859 --> 00:27:10,919
For the bread, at least the grain
for it, they brought from their
321
00:27:11,062 --> 00:27:11,960
province of Egypt.
322
00:27:12,097 --> 00:27:14,031
The vegetables, they grew themselves,
323
00:27:14,566 --> 00:27:17,626
in little plots beside their houses in
the city,
324
00:27:18,036 --> 00:27:22,200
in fields in a great green swath that
ran for mile upon mile down the
325
00:27:22,340 --> 00:27:23,238
walls of the city.
326
00:27:23,375 --> 00:27:25,240
And, here's still a bit of it today,
327
00:27:25,543 --> 00:27:27,875
growing more or less the same crops.
328
00:27:30,215 --> 00:27:34,845
Look at the garlic, the onions, the
dill, the dill they used to flavor fish,
329
00:27:34,986 --> 00:27:38,820
especially those heavy yellow fish
soups they so love.
330
00:27:40,158 --> 00:27:43,423
This, well this is a ecological
Byzantine delight here.
331
00:27:43,561 --> 00:27:45,461
There's three or four different sorts
of crops.
332
00:27:45,597 --> 00:27:48,964
There's rocket for salad there's chard
and cabbage again.
333
00:27:49,100 --> 00:27:53,537
All sorts of things, mint all growing
together in a great profusion.
334
00:27:56,041 --> 00:27:59,772
And, at the end of it all, lettuce to
calm your stomach.
335
00:28:00,912 --> 00:28:04,678
So, when the peasants in the fields,
just stopped there for a moment
336
00:28:04,816 --> 00:28:06,010
and straightened their backs
337
00:28:06,151 --> 00:28:10,884
to watch the lords of Byzantium, those
great history makers riding by,
338
00:28:11,222 --> 00:28:14,658
they too, could think, "We're not
having such a bad time either."
339
00:28:19,831 --> 00:28:24,427
The Byzantine economy was based
on the classic Mediterranean diet,
340
00:28:24,736 --> 00:28:29,173
wine, grain, cheese, vegetables, and
olives.
341
00:28:29,607 --> 00:28:31,370
Olive oil was a staple.
342
00:28:31,710 --> 00:28:33,644
It was Byzantium's fuel.
343
00:28:33,912 --> 00:28:36,881
It lit streets, and homes and
lighthouses.
344
00:28:37,015 --> 00:28:41,179
It oiled carts and cured baldness,
and it was used for cooking.
345
00:28:44,622 --> 00:28:50,151
In its first century, Constantinople's
oil came mostly from northern Syria.
346
00:28:51,996 --> 00:28:53,554
This is a wonderful thing.
347
00:28:53,998 --> 00:28:57,456
It's a piece of Byzantine industrial
archeology.
348
00:28:57,769 --> 00:29:01,034
It's a factory for making olive oil.
349
00:29:03,108 --> 00:29:04,598
This is a marvelous little place.
350
00:29:04,743 --> 00:29:07,837
I'll show you how it works. It's
very sensible, very logical.
351
00:29:08,179 --> 00:29:09,339
The olives were picked from the trees,
352
00:29:09,481 --> 00:29:11,574
they came down that
little street in wagons,
353
00:29:11,716 --> 00:29:13,240
they were tipped down through a
354
00:29:13,384 --> 00:29:15,852
window, and they fell into
that trough down there.
355
00:29:16,254 --> 00:29:18,347
They were then scooped out of the
trough
356
00:29:19,124 --> 00:29:21,115
and put into this mill.
357
00:29:22,093 --> 00:29:24,960
This is a great oil press for the
berries.
358
00:29:25,096 --> 00:29:26,290
You see this drum?
359
00:29:26,431 --> 00:29:30,868
There were two of those, they fitted
on end in here, side by side,
360
00:29:31,002 --> 00:29:32,435
a bough between them,
361
00:29:32,570 --> 00:29:35,596
and four or five men pushed round the
outside
362
00:29:35,740 --> 00:29:39,232
and reduced the olives, the skin and
the stone into a sort of
363
00:29:39,377 --> 00:29:41,368
horrible messy pulp.
364
00:29:41,746 --> 00:29:49,551
That, then, was taken out of there and
laid in these circles here.
365
00:29:50,555 --> 00:29:52,614
Now, this thing in the wall here,
366
00:29:53,057 --> 00:29:55,992
held a great beam that ran through the
air.
367
00:29:56,127 --> 00:29:59,528
And, hanging above this was a huge
cylinder of stone.
368
00:29:59,664 --> 00:30:03,896
That, then, was slowly dropped onto
the massive olive paste
369
00:30:04,035 --> 00:30:07,971
and the oil dripped down into these
tanks.
370
00:30:08,306 --> 00:30:12,242
Not the end, because, this after all,
although it's cold pressed, is
371
00:30:12,377 --> 00:30:14,971
actually a very impure oil at this
moment.
372
00:30:15,246 --> 00:30:21,617
So, they take it out of here and they
put it into this tank here.
373
00:30:21,753 --> 00:30:23,744
Now, this tank has already got water
in it,
374
00:30:23,888 --> 00:30:26,254
so as they pour the olive oil in,
it floats to the surface,
375
00:30:26,391 --> 00:30:29,383
all the impurities go down to the
bottom.
376
00:30:29,527 --> 00:30:31,290
And, see this little trench here?
377
00:30:31,496 --> 00:30:34,056
A vital piece of gourmet equipment
378
00:30:34,199 --> 00:30:39,831
because this is where the very finest
oil ran from that impurity tank
379
00:30:39,971 --> 00:30:41,871
down into this tank
380
00:30:42,006 --> 00:30:46,033
to make fine clear olive oil for the
tables of Byzantium.
381
00:30:51,749 --> 00:30:56,413
This is Sergilla, one of three hundred
ancient Syrian villages,
382
00:30:56,554 --> 00:30:58,283
in the Byzantine olive groves,
383
00:30:58,990 --> 00:31:03,450
provincial Byzantium preserved in
fine cut stone.
384
00:31:12,837 --> 00:31:16,773
Just off the main square is the public
bath house, the forerunner of the
385
00:31:16,908 --> 00:31:18,273
Turkish bath.
386
00:31:19,777 --> 00:31:23,235
Saint John cast whores and devils out
of one of these.
387
00:31:27,785 --> 00:31:31,949
This is Sergilla's cafe cum town hall
down on Main Street.
388
00:31:32,323 --> 00:31:36,521
Old soldiers and half mad saints got
drunk in bars like this,
389
00:31:36,794 --> 00:31:40,924
money lenders, magistrates and
merchants did their business here.
390
00:31:41,666 --> 00:31:45,932
Can you hear the farmers, tough
independent homesteaders,
391
00:31:46,070 --> 00:31:50,097
chuckling about the prices that the
city folk were paying for their olive oil?
392
00:31:52,810 --> 00:31:54,835
Life was very good.
393
00:31:56,981 --> 00:32:02,476
There was time for both the devil and
his and for the church and all its works.
394
00:32:07,725 --> 00:32:11,491
If you could come up this path,
fifteen hundred years ago on the
395
00:32:11,629 --> 00:32:13,358
first of September,
396
00:32:13,498 --> 00:32:16,365
you'd have been accompanied by
thousands of people shouting and
397
00:32:16,501 --> 00:32:18,628
singing praises to the Lord.
398
00:32:18,970 --> 00:32:21,871
It was the feast day of Saint Simon
of the Pillar.
399
00:32:34,819 --> 00:32:38,619
The first place these processions came
to was this great baptistery.
400
00:32:38,756 --> 00:32:41,418
Ten thousand people, whole cities full
401
00:32:41,559 --> 00:32:44,426
have been baptized in this room
in a single day
402
00:32:44,729 --> 00:32:46,993
and then out they all went praising
403
00:32:47,131 --> 00:32:49,827
the Lord, onwards to the
Church of the Saint.
404
00:32:59,077 --> 00:33:01,307
It's Roman architecture still of
course,
405
00:33:01,446 --> 00:33:03,812
arches, vaults, and column tops.
406
00:33:04,649 --> 00:33:07,743
But, now, there's Christian crosses,
too.
407
00:33:11,222 --> 00:33:14,419
The ancient forms are turning into
something else.
408
00:33:15,193 --> 00:33:20,927
See, the wind of faith is bending all
those ancient pagan patterns.
409
00:33:21,366 --> 00:33:24,631
This is the start of what would become
Byzantium.
410
00:33:27,405 --> 00:33:29,066
And at the church's hub,
411
00:33:29,640 --> 00:33:34,737
the remains of a fifty foot column
on which Saint Simon lived.
412
00:33:38,750 --> 00:33:41,844
So, who was this weird man who
lived up a pillar
413
00:33:41,986 --> 00:33:43,920
and half the world had come to see
him
414
00:33:44,055 --> 00:33:47,889
and when he died, they built this
beautiful dancing church in his honor?
415
00:33:48,159 --> 00:33:53,495
Well, as a young man, Simon, had worn
clothes so rough they make him bleed.
416
00:33:53,631 --> 00:33:57,431
Then he dreamt up the idea of chaining
his left leg to a large rock.
417
00:33:57,568 --> 00:33:59,866
That, before he went up the column.
418
00:34:00,638 --> 00:34:02,105
But, Simon wasn't a nutter,
419
00:34:02,240 --> 00:34:05,607
Simon had tremendous presence like
an emperor.
420
00:34:05,743 --> 00:34:08,007
He sat still and silent
421
00:34:08,146 --> 00:34:11,081
and in his contest between flesh and
the devil,
422
00:34:11,215 --> 00:34:14,275
it seemed to most people that he was
beyond touch.
423
00:34:14,419 --> 00:34:17,820
And, there he was on his pillar, half
way between heaven and earth.
424
00:34:17,955 --> 00:34:20,685
A perfect man to settle disputes.
425
00:34:21,025 --> 00:34:22,959
So they used Simon.
426
00:34:23,294 --> 00:34:25,888
The farmers of Syria would come here
when they were in arguments
427
00:34:26,030 --> 00:34:27,554
and he would settle one against the
other.
428
00:34:27,698 --> 00:34:30,098
The Bedouin, Arab Bedouin came to
see him too.
429
00:34:30,234 --> 00:34:31,565
The emperor used to come to see him
430
00:34:31,702 --> 00:34:34,398
and always he acted as a balance in
society,
431
00:34:34,539 --> 00:34:36,029
such a terrifying balance
432
00:34:36,174 --> 00:34:38,233
that if he cursed somebody from the
top of his pillar
433
00:34:38,376 --> 00:34:41,868
a rock would explode next to the
unfortunate individual.
434
00:34:42,980 --> 00:34:48,782
So, Simon, it was a vital element in
this new Christian empire.
435
00:34:49,053 --> 00:34:53,615
An element which somehow had taken
the old stern order of the Roman age
436
00:34:53,758 --> 00:34:57,421
and left it half way between heaven
and earth.
437
00:35:01,966 --> 00:35:04,025
In eastern Mediterranean,
438
00:35:04,168 --> 00:35:07,194
in the warm heartland of the pagan
world,
439
00:35:07,338 --> 00:35:11,274
the first Christian empire, the empire
of Byzantium,
440
00:35:11,676 --> 00:35:14,110
had found its balance.
441
00:35:14,779 --> 00:35:21,207
It was a good life, a rich life and
there was peace and plenty.
442
00:35:30,928 --> 00:35:33,396
You know it always strikes me as
funny, when people talk about the
443
00:35:33,531 --> 00:35:35,897
fall of the Roman empire.
444
00:35:36,300 --> 00:35:38,860
After all, standing here in
Constantinople,
445
00:35:39,003 --> 00:35:43,133
it just got richer, and richer, and
richer, didn't fall at all.
446
00:35:43,841 --> 00:35:46,776
I suppose, really, it's because Rome
fell.
447
00:35:47,078 --> 00:35:48,739
In fact Rome didn't fall,
448
00:35:48,880 --> 00:35:50,074
it just got poor.
449
00:35:50,481 --> 00:35:54,008
Constantine had moved the capital
from the great old cities of the
450
00:35:54,152 --> 00:35:55,642
west to here in the east.
451
00:35:55,786 --> 00:35:59,347
And, with him moved the government,
the generals, the artists, and the architects,
452
00:35:59,490 --> 00:36:02,323
everybody who made the empire moved
with him.
453
00:36:02,960 --> 00:36:07,294
So, in 475, that's twenty five years
after these walls were finished,
454
00:36:07,632 --> 00:36:09,691
the last Roman emperor of the west,
455
00:36:09,834 --> 00:36:11,665
a young man, a junior emperor,
456
00:36:11,936 --> 00:36:15,702
sent the crown back here to
Constantinople, to new Rome.
457
00:36:15,840 --> 00:36:17,205
This was the new city,
458
00:36:17,708 --> 00:36:21,576
and, I suppose really the story about
the fall of the Roman empire,
459
00:36:21,712 --> 00:36:22,906
that's the western empire,
460
00:36:23,047 --> 00:36:25,880
was really invented in the Renaissance
by the popes
461
00:36:26,017 --> 00:36:29,748
who really wanted to get the idea of
a pagan empire falling and a
462
00:36:29,887 --> 00:36:32,151
Christian empire of the west rising.
463
00:36:32,290 --> 00:36:33,518
They're good propagandist,
464
00:36:33,658 --> 00:36:36,218
like Raphael and Michelangelo to
budge them on their way.
465
00:36:36,661 --> 00:36:40,529
But the truth is, the real truth is
that old Rome, ancient Rome,
466
00:36:40,665 --> 00:36:42,895
had been modeled on the great cities
of the east.
467
00:36:43,034 --> 00:36:47,266
When Antioch and Alexandria,
all those great marble cities,
468
00:36:47,405 --> 00:36:50,670
so when you say Rome fell, it didn't
fall at all.
469
00:36:50,808 --> 00:36:52,435
It simply went back home again.
470
00:36:58,950 --> 00:37:01,976
After the last emperor of the west
resigned,
471
00:37:02,320 --> 00:37:05,346
Byzantium lost most of its European
provinces,
472
00:37:06,824 --> 00:37:08,621
only for a century though.
473
00:37:08,759 --> 00:37:10,659
By the year 555,
474
00:37:10,795 --> 00:37:14,959
brand new Byzantine armies had
ruthlessly re-conquered some of them,
475
00:37:16,067 --> 00:37:17,898
and in northern Italy, at Ravenna,
476
00:37:18,035 --> 00:37:22,495
they left triumphant decorations in
this church as a memorial
477
00:37:27,178 --> 00:37:31,046
The man there is Justinian, the
emperor,
478
00:37:31,182 --> 00:37:34,777
who two hundred years after
Constantine completely remade the
479
00:37:34,919 --> 00:37:36,409
Roman empire.
480
00:37:37,121 --> 00:37:40,022
The man who made Byzantium,
481
00:37:41,392 --> 00:37:46,420
he was a man they said who was gentle
and approachable, a man who never
482
00:37:46,564 --> 00:37:48,088
showed his anger,
483
00:37:48,366 --> 00:37:54,066
a man, who in the quietest of voices,
could order the death of thousands.
484
00:37:55,039 --> 00:37:58,167
He didn't organize the empire
completely by himself, though.
485
00:37:58,309 --> 00:38:00,869
His great strength was as a manager.
486
00:38:01,112 --> 00:38:03,945
Those strong faces that surround him
487
00:38:04,081 --> 00:38:07,073
were the faces of a great team of men
he picked together.
488
00:38:07,518 --> 00:38:10,783
And, he didn't really care whether
they were Roman patricians or
489
00:38:10,921 --> 00:38:13,048
from the humblest, roughest
backgrounds.
490
00:38:13,190 --> 00:38:16,819
He, himself had actually come from a
completely illiterate peasant family
491
00:38:16,961 --> 00:38:18,258
in Serbia.
492
00:38:19,130 --> 00:38:22,759
Justinian though was only half the
picture.
493
00:38:23,034 --> 00:38:27,164
The other half was that most
remarkable woman over there,
494
00:38:27,305 --> 00:38:29,500
the Empress Theodora.
495
00:38:29,640 --> 00:38:32,302
They married each other for love and
they stayed together for
496
00:38:32,443 --> 00:38:34,274
twenty-five years.
497
00:38:34,679 --> 00:38:36,840
And, look at the young ladies of the
court there,
498
00:38:36,981 --> 00:38:38,642
they're looking sideways,
a bit nervous,
499
00:38:38,783 --> 00:38:42,150
you see it's not proper for young
girls to look straight at you,
500
00:38:42,286 --> 00:38:46,279
not unless you are a woman of power
like Theodora.
501
00:38:46,957 --> 00:38:51,360
But, that is actually a portrait of a
woman dying of cancer.
502
00:38:52,129 --> 00:38:56,498
Within two or three months of this
mosaic being finished, Theodora was dead.
503
00:38:56,634 --> 00:38:59,262
Justinian ruled for another twenty
years.
504
00:38:59,403 --> 00:39:00,495
He never remarried
505
00:39:00,638 --> 00:39:04,972
and he went to her grave and lit
candles until he was a very old man.
506
00:39:10,181 --> 00:39:14,277
Although Justinian and Theodora
restored the Roman empire,
507
00:39:14,652 --> 00:39:18,281
this was no longer the ancient
classical world.
508
00:39:18,689 --> 00:39:20,554
They lived in a different age.
509
00:39:20,691 --> 00:39:23,455
They spoke Eastern Greek instead
of Roman Latin
510
00:39:23,894 --> 00:39:27,022
and viewed the world in very different
ways.
511
00:39:35,606 --> 00:39:37,233
Look at these sculptures.
512
00:39:37,375 --> 00:39:42,108
They're probably the last classical
figures ever made.
513
00:39:43,214 --> 00:39:47,241
They were made actually in the
generations just before Justinian.
514
00:39:47,518 --> 00:39:51,318
Now, at first glance, you might think
they're just part of those usual old
515
00:39:51,455 --> 00:39:53,719
classical things hanging
around museums,
516
00:39:53,858 --> 00:39:57,988
big stony Alexanders and Caesars all
strutting their stuff.
517
00:39:58,429 --> 00:40:00,420
But, they're not like that at all.
518
00:40:00,664 --> 00:40:02,894
They're new, they're different.
519
00:40:03,033 --> 00:40:04,625
Something else is going on.
520
00:40:08,272 --> 00:40:09,967
It's very simple work,
521
00:40:10,574 --> 00:40:12,405
very realistic in a way,
522
00:40:13,878 --> 00:40:15,812
little light cut lines,
523
00:40:16,147 --> 00:40:19,913
and a day old beard, lightly chiseled
on the hard marble,
524
00:40:20,050 --> 00:40:25,386
as if to emphasize his transience,
it's insubstantiality.
525
00:40:26,991 --> 00:40:31,826
These people are pensive, sad, and
rather wise.
526
00:40:31,962 --> 00:40:35,227
After all, hadn't the saints and
bishops told them that
527
00:40:35,366 --> 00:40:39,996
this life, this material world was
only an illusion.
528
00:40:40,738 --> 00:40:44,401
So, naturally, these statues don't
strut their stony stuff like
529
00:40:44,542 --> 00:40:48,239
Alexander or the emperors of Rome.
530
00:40:48,379 --> 00:40:53,749
They are not heroic descriptions of
skin and bone and straining muscle.
531
00:40:54,285 --> 00:40:59,348
Each man stands inside his own
mysterious inner space that each
532
00:40:59,490 --> 00:41:01,219
one of must occupy,
533
00:41:01,926 --> 00:41:08,388
and from that space, they look outwards
from the soul towards the heavens.
534
00:41:11,936 --> 00:41:16,168
As you might expect, if you should
move around them,
535
00:41:16,807 --> 00:41:24,339
solid bulk of marble and humanity seem
to be nothing more than an illusion.
536
00:41:35,826 --> 00:41:39,660
These brand new people, though,
were clever and inventive, too.
537
00:41:40,064 --> 00:41:43,727
Many of them were drawn here,
to the center of the empire.
538
00:41:46,270 --> 00:41:48,261
Most of Byzantium's brightest brains
539
00:41:48,405 --> 00:41:52,933
were packed into these tiny streets
and apartments that surrounded the
540
00:41:53,077 --> 00:41:55,739
palace complex in Constantinople.
541
00:41:56,046 --> 00:41:59,072
They were people here come to seek
their fortune of the court from
542
00:41:59,216 --> 00:42:00,615
all over the empire
543
00:42:00,751 --> 00:42:03,083
from Spain, from Egypt, from Syria.
544
00:42:03,354 --> 00:42:05,083
There were mathematicians, lawyers,
doctors,
545
00:42:05,222 --> 00:42:07,247
scientists, magicians, alchemists,
546
00:42:07,391 --> 00:42:11,088
all sorts of weird and wonderful
people packed and living tightly
547
00:42:11,228 --> 00:42:13,321
together in these little streets.
548
00:42:15,733 --> 00:42:18,361
In the 520's and 530's
549
00:42:18,669 --> 00:42:23,197
there was a great excitement bubbling
up inside this unique community.
550
00:42:25,342 --> 00:42:29,506
Justinian and Theodora had planned to
build new palaces and churches,
551
00:42:29,647 --> 00:42:32,445
such as the world had never seen.
552
00:42:36,954 --> 00:42:41,357
The ancient forms, arches, vaults and
column tops were being used
553
00:42:41,492 --> 00:42:43,483
for something revolutionary,
554
00:42:44,028 --> 00:42:47,725
something that will be echoed in ten
thousand different churches for
555
00:42:47,865 --> 00:42:50,060
a thousand years and more,
556
00:42:52,803 --> 00:42:54,964
the style that is Byzantium.
557
00:43:03,113 --> 00:43:07,743
This seaside church, set right beside
the palace was made for some of
558
00:43:07,885 --> 00:43:10,513
Theodora's favorite priests.
559
00:43:10,888 --> 00:43:11,912
It was probably the work of one
560
00:43:12,056 --> 00:43:16,425
Anthemius, famous
physician and mathematician.
561
00:43:19,463 --> 00:43:21,897
This is where the style began.
562
00:43:28,572 --> 00:43:30,164
Theodora built the church
563
00:43:30,307 --> 00:43:34,209
to hold the bloodstained cloaks and
bodies of two martyred soldiers,
564
00:43:34,478 --> 00:43:35,968
Sergius and Bacchus,
565
00:43:36,113 --> 00:43:38,479
the army's patron saints.
566
00:43:40,284 --> 00:43:42,115
Now it's a mosque.
567
00:44:10,881 --> 00:44:16,342
Anthemius' subtle compass has
transformed all the usual ancient forms,
568
00:44:17,021 --> 00:44:20,650
squares become circles,
circles octagons
569
00:44:20,958 --> 00:44:28,729
and all around a single central point,
space spins into ever smaller spaces.
570
00:44:32,903 --> 00:44:37,499
It's as perfectly mysterious as the
finest natural crystal,
571
00:44:38,175 --> 00:44:42,635
the walls, the columns seem to be
nothing more than an illusion and
572
00:44:42,780 --> 00:44:44,805
simply fade away.
573
00:45:03,967 --> 00:45:09,371
Just look at that great big glorious
dome like a huge melon divided
574
00:45:09,506 --> 00:45:11,804
into sixteen sections
575
00:45:12,076 --> 00:45:16,172
and held by eight wonderful swinging
arches on those extraordinary
576
00:45:16,313 --> 00:45:17,780
V-shaped pillars
577
00:45:17,915 --> 00:45:21,180
and twenty-eight columns through the
church.
578
00:45:24,722 --> 00:45:29,785
It's like a vast net of stone and
brick slung over this central space,
579
00:45:29,927 --> 00:45:35,126
this strange mysterious space for
the imperial communion.
580
00:45:36,033 --> 00:45:40,026
It's a wonderful piece of architecture
and it solved all sorts of problems
581
00:45:40,170 --> 00:45:41,694
that you can't even see.
582
00:45:41,839 --> 00:45:45,206
You see, those low domes exert
tremendous pressure
583
00:45:45,342 --> 00:45:48,243
and there's a force in this building
to push the bottom of it out
584
00:45:48,378 --> 00:45:50,573
so the whole thing comes crashing
down.
585
00:45:51,014 --> 00:45:54,450
Now, Anthemius, like every other
architect,
586
00:45:54,585 --> 00:45:59,181
has used stone here as lintels, and
beams, as stress and strains,
587
00:45:59,323 --> 00:46:01,154
the old way of doing things,
588
00:46:01,291 --> 00:46:04,454
but he has come up with a brilliant
idea to hold the church together.
589
00:46:04,595 --> 00:46:06,153
It's this cornice,
590
00:46:07,831 --> 00:46:12,029
this huge beautiful marble cornice
with it's inscription to Justinian
591
00:46:12,169 --> 00:46:13,329
and Theodora,
592
00:46:15,672 --> 00:46:17,663
this isn't just here for decoration.
593
00:46:18,942 --> 00:46:24,676
This links the church in a chain,
it binds the stones together a great
594
00:46:24,815 --> 00:46:26,373
necklace for the church
595
00:46:26,517 --> 00:46:29,543
brought from a shiny island in a
bright blue sea.
596
00:46:38,595 --> 00:46:40,654
Throughout Justinian's long reign
597
00:46:40,864 --> 00:46:43,332
the Marmara quarries were hard at
work,
598
00:46:43,600 --> 00:46:46,933
shipping stone for a new crop of
imperial churches.
599
00:46:48,605 --> 00:46:50,937
This was building on a grand scale,
600
00:46:51,175 --> 00:46:54,406
churches for every country in the
empire.
601
00:46:55,646 --> 00:46:59,878
But, the biggest of them all was a new
church for the imperial communion
602
00:47:00,017 --> 00:47:01,985
at Constantinople.
603
00:47:03,687 --> 00:47:09,125
For this, the quarry masters were
cutting larger and yet larger versions
604
00:47:09,259 --> 00:47:13,059
of Anthemius' clever interlocking
cornice.
605
00:47:15,632 --> 00:47:19,261
Here's a piece of one of those stone
chains under construction, and
606
00:47:19,403 --> 00:47:21,371
here's its secret.
607
00:47:21,772 --> 00:47:28,678
Each block was held to the next block
by a great iron bracket held in
608
00:47:28,812 --> 00:47:31,610
lead that ran between the two stones.
609
00:47:32,649 --> 00:47:36,847
Anthemius' engineers used rather a
lot of iron in their buildings.
610
00:47:37,087 --> 00:47:39,578
It's part of whole new series of
techniques
611
00:47:39,723 --> 00:47:43,215
that allowed them to think more
daringly, more bravely than any
612
00:47:43,360 --> 00:47:45,419
other architects had done before.
613
00:47:45,762 --> 00:47:50,165
Above all, it enabled Justinian,
himself, to have the ambition to
614
00:47:50,300 --> 00:47:54,396
conceive of the greatest dome the
world has ever seen.
615
00:47:56,840 --> 00:47:59,104
Such mysterious cargoes,
616
00:47:59,409 --> 00:48:02,537
such magic marbles from across
the empire,
617
00:48:02,880 --> 00:48:07,374
now sail the seas and came to the
Holy City of Byzantium
618
00:48:07,751 --> 00:48:12,154
to be gathered up upon the site of
the imperial communion.
619
00:48:13,724 --> 00:48:16,022
This is the finished dream,
620
00:48:17,060 --> 00:48:20,461
intense climax of all of ancient
engineering,
621
00:48:21,231 --> 00:48:24,689
a lively frame built with prayer and
pragmatism
622
00:48:24,835 --> 00:48:28,271
to hold the largest dome the world
had ever seen.
623
00:48:29,973 --> 00:48:34,000
This though was just the outside of
the sacred theater.
624
00:48:37,047 --> 00:48:42,178
Inside, a forest of columns rises up
in ecstasy.
625
00:48:43,720 --> 00:48:47,087
The walls, glass and gold and marble,
626
00:48:47,357 --> 00:48:48,619
light and dark,
627
00:48:48,759 --> 00:48:53,696
insubstantial and illusory seem to
simply fade away.
628
00:49:00,704 --> 00:49:02,763
A perfect sea of space,
629
00:49:03,006 --> 00:49:06,840
for God's holy wisdom to come down
and touch the earth,
630
00:49:07,711 --> 00:49:10,908
a perfect theater for the anthems of
Byzantium.
631
00:49:12,215 --> 00:49:15,412
Lo, the Lords of the heaven and earth
have come.
632
00:49:20,424 --> 00:49:22,790
Blood red columns of Egyptian palfrey
633
00:49:22,926 --> 00:49:27,488
were taken so it was said from the
Temple of the Sun at Rome.
634
00:49:29,066 --> 00:49:32,126
The church's wooden doors from
Noah's Ark.
635
00:49:33,804 --> 00:49:37,296
The building's bronze was stripped
from the Temple of the Goddess, Artemis,
636
00:49:37,441 --> 00:49:40,467
one of the seven wonders of the pagan
world.
637
00:49:47,818 --> 00:49:51,083
No wonder, the building has itself
become a legend.
638
00:50:00,063 --> 00:50:06,024
Poets said the church can bind the
size of sunset and the scale of quarries,
639
00:50:08,038 --> 00:50:12,202
the hues of birds and fish and
precious stones,
640
00:50:13,310 --> 00:50:17,542
all the textures and experience of
that ancient everyday,
641
00:50:18,115 --> 00:50:20,913
the leading pink of baby's
fingernails,
642
00:50:21,151 --> 00:50:25,053
the rising of the bright red star,
Arcturus.
643
00:50:29,826 --> 00:50:35,958
In Byzantine, in Greek, this church
was called the Church of Aya Sofia,
644
00:50:36,166 --> 00:50:38,157
The Church of Holy Wisdom.
645
00:50:38,969 --> 00:50:41,437
All of Justinian's enormous empire,
646
00:50:41,571 --> 00:50:47,441
its wealth, its piety, its pagan
heritage was gathered up inside it.
647
00:50:52,783 --> 00:50:54,978
Throughout the next nine centuries,
648
00:50:55,118 --> 00:50:59,054
this vast old building stood right at
the center of Byzantium,
649
00:50:59,523 --> 00:51:03,220
a symbol of its true destiny on earth.
650
00:51:04,561 --> 00:51:06,927
And on the last day of Byzantium
651
00:51:07,230 --> 00:51:10,222
the emperor and this troops came
here to pray
652
00:51:10,500 --> 00:51:14,061
before they walked out of the city
walls to die.
653
00:51:16,106 --> 00:51:19,405
For these were the vaults that held
the dream.
654
00:51:19,943 --> 00:51:23,106
The dream that was Byzantium.
57354
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