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Welcome to a brand-new series
of amazing Railway Adventures.
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00:00:06,480 --> 00:00:09,170
I'm setting off across the world
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00:00:09,200 --> 00:00:12,610
'on a series of stunning
railway journeys.'
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00:00:12,640 --> 00:00:16,050
Looking over the driver's shoulder,
getting the best view.
5
00:00:18,720 --> 00:00:21,090
I think this might be my favourite
railway station ever.
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00:00:21,120 --> 00:00:24,930
Travelling through fantastic
landscapes...
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The village looks like Toytown,
it's magnificent.
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00:00:27,320 --> 00:00:30,730
...via some frankly gobsmacking
feats of engineering.
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00:00:32,440 --> 00:00:34,530
I've never seen anything like this,
have you?
10
00:00:36,280 --> 00:00:39,410
I just moved an entire steam engine.
That was amazing!
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00:00:39,440 --> 00:00:42,290
'Tasting the ultimate in luxury.'
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00:00:42,320 --> 00:00:43,850
You know, there are times
doing this job
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00:00:43,880 --> 00:00:45,210
where I just want to pinch myself.
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Meeting all kinds of people.
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SHE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
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00:00:48,720 --> 00:00:51,610
First time in my life that
I'm decorating a cake in a train.
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00:00:53,560 --> 00:00:54,890
That's just great!
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00:00:54,920 --> 00:00:56,570
Grazie Mille.
Prego.
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00:00:56,600 --> 00:00:57,850
THEY LAUGH
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00:00:57,880 --> 00:01:00,770
These are my amazing
Railway Adventures.
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WHISTLE BLOWS
Let's go!
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Are we going backwards? Oh!
THEY LAUGH
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00:01:07,240 --> 00:01:09,170
TRAIN HORN HOOTS
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This time, I'm in Italy.
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Home to a rail network
of over 15,000 miles.
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I have to say, I love Italy.
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And this is a great way to see it,
by train.
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On my journey south,
it's a first for me.
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I'm crossing the sea by train.
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I've never seen anything like this,
have you? Isn't it incredible?
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'I learn to make limoncello
that packs a punch...'
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What percentage alcohol is this?
Its 96%.
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00:02:03,120 --> 00:02:04,850
96%?
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00:02:04,880 --> 00:02:07,050
HE CHUCKLES
It's fine?
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00:02:07,080 --> 00:02:10,330
It's literally just
cleared my sinuses out, that.
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00:02:10,360 --> 00:02:14,290
'..Attempt a volcano mission
that almost ends in disaster.'
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Quite frankly, that was one of
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the most terrifying things
I've ever done.
39
00:02:19,040 --> 00:02:22,810
And finally get to see
Mount Etna up close.
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She's finally come out to say,
"Hello." Mount Etna.
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That's the best view I've had in
the whole time I've been on Sicily.
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Oh, that's massively exciting.
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But my journey begins here,
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in southern Italy's
unofficial capital and
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the birthplace of
the Italian railway.
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That is the industrial city
of Naples.
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Looking out over
a glittering bay and,
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00:02:46,040 --> 00:02:48,970
hidden slightly by the cloud,
is Mount Vesuvius,
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the only active volcano
in mainland Europe.
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{\i1}And I'm traveling from here
down to Sicily and Mount Etna,{\i0}
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which is one of the most-active
volcanoes anywhere in the world.
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Which is why I am calling
this journey The Volcano Express.
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00:03:07,200 --> 00:03:11,810
But first, I got a bit of time
to explore this vibrant city.
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Naples is the third-largest city
in Italy,
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with a population of almost
one million people.
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And, as far as I can tell,
they're all football fans.
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On the day I arrive,
there's a huge Napoli match
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and everywhere I look
there are footballs shirts,
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flags and, of course,
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their most-famous player,
Diego Maradona.
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Nicknamed GLli Azzurri, or The Blues,
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the team's turquoise shirts
represent the waters of
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00:03:39,400 --> 00:03:41,050
the Gulf of Naples.
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So, you know that Napoli
is famous for its pizzas,
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but, more recently, because
the city's obsessed with football,
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light blue,
they've invented this new roll.
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Let me show you, it's nuts.
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HE CHUCKLES
Blue food!
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Doesn't taste blue.
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That's a great breakfast.
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Right.
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Breakfast sorted,
I head below ground to join
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the rush-hour commuters waiting for
the city's Metropolitan Line.
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Popular, innit?
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Here we go.
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00:04:33,720 --> 00:04:34,930
And we're underway.
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From Naples, I'm heading south,
travelling along
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the world-famous Amalfi Coast,
down into the toe of Italy
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and finally to Sicily, where my
second volcano, Mount Etna, awaits.
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The first leg of my
360-mile journey begins here,
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on a track which dates back to 1839.
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This little first stretch of line
was in fact
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00:05:02,240 --> 00:05:05,410
the site of the first railway line
in the whole of Italy.
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00:05:05,440 --> 00:05:09,330
It was for Ferdinand Il to go
from Naples to Portici,
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which was a palace that he had
down by the seaside.
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The rails were made of British Steel
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and the first engine to travel on it
was from Northumbria.
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Pretty cool, huh?
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Today, this is part of
the Metropolitan line
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that runs around Vesuvius.
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CROWDS SCREAM
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Vesuvius is considered among
the most dangerous volcanoes in
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the world.
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Eight major explosive eruptions
have taken place in
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the last 17,000 years.
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But the most-famous eruption of all
happened in 79 AD,
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and gave us
an incredibly significant
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Roman archaeological site...
Pompeii!
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Just 30 minutes into my journey
and we're going right past it.
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When the great eruption happened
at Vesuvius in the year 79,
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00:06:07,560 --> 00:06:09,210
the ash buried Pompeii,
102
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but another town nearby was buried,
too - Herculaneum.
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00:06:12,640 --> 00:06:15,290
And archaeologists have found
some extraordinary things there.
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I'm meeting
Professor Gianluca Del Mastro from
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00:06:19,360 --> 00:06:23,170
the University Of Campania
to tell me all about it.
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Gianluca.
Hi.
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You are a papyrologist.
Yes, I am a papyrologist.
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The first one I've ever met,
so, what do you do?
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I study papyri from Egypt,
but especially from Herculaneum,
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because from Herculaneum come
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00:06:34,840 --> 00:06:37,250
the most-important library
from antiquity.
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00:06:39,240 --> 00:06:41,570
The papyrus scrolls discovered there
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were buried under 60 feet
of mud and ash.
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And many were completely carbonised
by the heat of the volcanic debris.
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00:06:50,720 --> 00:06:52,690
Presumably, you can't see anything,
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00:06:52,720 --> 00:06:54,890
these papyri, if they were burnt
and covered, then...
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00:06:54,920 --> 00:06:58,970
Yes, yes, papyri were completely
crushed and folded
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00:06:59,000 --> 00:07:01,130
and it was very difficult at
the beginning,
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00:07:01,160 --> 00:07:03,970
in the 18th century, to open that.
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00:07:04,000 --> 00:07:05,410
You can open this?
Yes!
121
00:07:05,440 --> 00:07:08,010
Using x-ray computer tomography,
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00:07:08,040 --> 00:07:11,850
experts have been able to digitally
unwrap a small number,
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00:07:11,880 --> 00:07:15,250
revealing secrets from
the Romans and ancient Greeks.
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00:07:15,280 --> 00:07:16,890
And what information
are you finding?
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00:07:16,920 --> 00:07:19,090
What's on the papyrus?
What's it talking about?
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00:07:19,120 --> 00:07:22,130
Recently, we found papyrus
in which there is...
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00:07:22,160 --> 00:07:24,690
There are a fragment of
the Roman history.
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00:07:24,720 --> 00:07:26,370
And there is also poems.
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00:07:26,400 --> 00:07:30,890
And the ancient Latin poems
never read before.
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00:07:30,920 --> 00:07:33,050
But there are still hundreds
of scrolls
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00:07:33,080 --> 00:07:35,010
whose contents remain a mystery.
132
00:07:35,040 --> 00:07:38,090
Results from the scans
have produced a muddle of text,
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00:07:38,120 --> 00:07:41,930
which experts believe could be
deciphered with the right software.
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00:07:41,960 --> 00:07:47,090
And there's a global challenge
to design it, with a cash prize.
135
00:07:47,120 --> 00:07:50,490
Tell me about this million-dollar
prize, what's that for?
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00:07:50,520 --> 00:07:53,890
The Vesuvius prize?
It's a very important challenge.
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00:07:53,920 --> 00:07:57,090
At the moment,
we are able to read some letters,
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00:07:57,120 --> 00:08:00,970
some fragment of words.
But not complete phrases.
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Thanks to the challenge
and thanks to the collaboration
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00:08:03,720 --> 00:08:06,050
of scholars all around the world,
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00:08:06,080 --> 00:08:11,490
we are sure to obtain the complete
texts, complete columns of papyrus.
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00:08:11,520 --> 00:08:13,730
And the winning team
gets $1 million.
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Not a bad incentive, eh?
144
00:08:15,440 --> 00:08:18,730
So, if these people who are writing
this mathematical algorithm
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00:08:18,760 --> 00:08:22,730
manage to unscramble these papyrus,
you will be able to read them?
146
00:08:22,760 --> 00:08:26,970
Yes, I hope that somebody will win
the challenge. Succeed!
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00:08:27,000 --> 00:08:28,650
Yeah.
Well, that's very exciting.
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Yes, for us, it will be a new life.
149
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Yeah.
A new perspective, yes.
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I think it's amazing, I think it's
absolutely fascinating work you do.
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I can't wait to see what it is
that you find out about.
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Just over an hour into my journey,
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the train arrives at
my first destination.
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This is Vietri Sul Mare,
which is on the Amalfi Coast,
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one of the most beautiful coastlines
you will see anywhere in the world.
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Now, my train doesn't go any further
in the direction I want to go and,
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00:09:02,760 --> 00:09:06,210
to get to my next stop, I need
a different form of transport.
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00:09:06,240 --> 00:09:08,330
And I've come up with
something pretty cute.
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00:09:11,960 --> 00:09:14,970
For zipping along this glamorous
stretch of coastline,
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I'm going to need a pretty cool car.
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You might be thinking Ferrari...
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00:09:22,720 --> 00:09:23,970
or maybe even Lamborghini...
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...but my vehicle of choice
for today's trip is
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the grandchild of another icon
of Italian motoring history.
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QUIET HONKING
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The bubble car!
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MUSIC: 'Flower Duet'
by Leo Delibes
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This is the Microlino.
Or ME-crolino.
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And I've got to tell you,
it's enormous fun.
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It is a modern-day bubble car.
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And I'm driving it on
the Amalfi Coast.
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HE CHUCKLES
How amazing is this?
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00:10:03,880 --> 00:10:07,290
Originally launched as the Isetta in
the 1950s,
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00:10:07,320 --> 00:10:09,850
these tiny cars caused quite a stir
175
00:10:09,880 --> 00:10:13,530
and were made famous by
celebrity owners like Cary Grant,
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00:10:13,560 --> 00:10:17,250
Elvis Presley
and even Sir Stirling Moss.
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00:10:18,400 --> 00:10:20,370
Today's incarnation,
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the Microlino is the brainchild
of Swiss entrepreneur Wim Ouboter.
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They only started making
these in Turin in 2022.
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I'm one of the first people to be
able to drive it...
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...and it's fulfilled
a lifelong ambition.
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Always wanted a bubble car!
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Whizzy little things, too.
This is so Italian and fantastic.
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HE CHUCKLES
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Now, this is a very tight road, but,
look at that, no problem at all.
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Big van, tiny car.
HE CHUCKLES
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What a vehicle to do Italy in.
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You'll get every side street,
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you can go up every tiny,
little alleyway.
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00:11:00,680 --> 00:11:05,170
It's just... so joyful!
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00:11:05,200 --> 00:11:07,330
Wow, look at the view!
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00:11:07,360 --> 00:11:09,170
This is the Amalfi Coast.
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00:11:10,600 --> 00:11:12,410
And what better way to see it?
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Bellissima, che Bella vista!
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On the next leg of
my Italian adventure,
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00:11:22,600 --> 00:11:25,770
I learn to make limoncello
that packs a punch.
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00:11:25,800 --> 00:11:28,130
What percentage alcohol as this?
It's 96%.
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00:11:28,160 --> 00:11:29,890
96%?
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00:11:29,920 --> 00:11:31,890
HE LAUGHS
It's fine?
200
00:11:31,920 --> 00:11:35,370
It's... literally just cleared
my sinuses out, that.
201
00:11:35,400 --> 00:11:38,650
And our sample food that helps
many coastal dwellers live
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00:11:38,680 --> 00:11:42,130
well into their 80s,
90s and even their 100s.
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00:11:42,160 --> 00:11:43,770
SHE SPEAKS ITALIAN
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00:11:43,800 --> 00:11:45,410
I'm not very good at rolling,
am I?
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00:11:45,440 --> 00:11:47,250
THEY LAUGH
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00:11:47,280 --> 00:11:49,410
That's a bit of a mess,
that, isn't it, really?
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00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:50,850
THEY LAUGH
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00:12:00,680 --> 00:12:03,650
The glamour of the Amalfi Coast
has been attracting
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00:12:03,680 --> 00:12:05,650
the likes of royalty, artists,
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00:12:05,680 --> 00:12:09,850
pop stars and movie icons
for centuries.
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00:12:09,880 --> 00:12:11,770
And I want to find out why.
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I parked the car,
because no vehicles are allowed in
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00:12:14,640 --> 00:12:16,970
the centre of Ravello, this village.
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00:12:17,000 --> 00:12:20,450
And I've come to see one of
the finest five-star hotels on
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00:12:20,480 --> 00:12:23,810
the Amalfi Coast.
I've even tidied myself up a bit.
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00:12:26,320 --> 00:12:30,850
Once a 12th century private villa
for an Italian noble family,
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00:12:30,880 --> 00:12:34,690
Palazzo Avino opened as
a hotel in 1997.
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00:12:36,560 --> 00:12:38,490
Today, I'm meeting owner Marietta,
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00:12:38,520 --> 00:12:41,010
who is going to give me
an exclusive tour.
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00:12:41,040 --> 00:12:43,330
Marietta.
Nick, benvenuto.
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00:12:43,360 --> 00:12:46,130
I'm so excited to be here
at Palazzo...
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00:12:46,160 --> 00:12:48,330
Avino.
Avino.
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00:12:48,360 --> 00:12:50,530
Oh, it's wonderful.
It looks wonderful.
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Come and have a look at the view.
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The hotel is perched high on the
cliffs above the town of Ravello.
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00:13:06,080 --> 00:13:07,570
What a view!
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00:13:15,560 --> 00:13:16,930
It's extraordinary, isn't it?
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00:13:16,960 --> 00:13:18,930
Such a beautiful,
beautiful building.
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00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:21,130
Do you get famous people come
and stay here? Yes.
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00:13:21,160 --> 00:13:22,130
You do?
Yes.
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00:13:22,160 --> 00:13:23,930
Anybody you could tell me?
No!
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00:13:23,960 --> 00:13:25,170
THEY LAUGH
That's a secret!
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00:13:25,200 --> 00:13:27,490
But, absolutely, over the years,
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00:13:27,520 --> 00:13:32,210
Ravello has been a destination
for famous guests, famous artists,
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00:13:32,240 --> 00:13:34,050
famous writers.
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00:13:34,080 --> 00:13:35,930
I'm excited to see it,
can we have a look around?
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00:13:35,960 --> 00:13:38,210
Of course, prego.
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00:13:38,240 --> 00:13:41,610
Marietta's father bought
the property as a wreck
239
00:13:41,640 --> 00:13:42,970
and transformed it.
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00:13:44,760 --> 00:13:49,050
Today, guests can enjoy
a 20 m pool with a view.
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00:13:49,080 --> 00:13:54,250
Dine in a Michelin-star restaurant
and even arrive by helicopter.
242
00:13:54,280 --> 00:13:57,050
And, now, I'm going to show you
the ancient part,
243
00:13:57,080 --> 00:13:59,810
which is kind of
the iconic inner garden.
244
00:14:01,440 --> 00:14:04,290
The atrium is one of
the original features left from
245
00:14:04,320 --> 00:14:05,770
the 12th century building.
246
00:14:09,840 --> 00:14:13,770
Oh, this is beautiful, isn't it?
Yes, it's my favourite part.
247
00:14:13,800 --> 00:14:15,810
And these are all
the suites upstairs? Yes.
248
00:14:15,840 --> 00:14:20,050
And the rooms, they all look into
this inner garden.
249
00:14:20,080 --> 00:14:24,850
The hotel has 33 rooms
and ten magnificent suites.
250
00:14:24,880 --> 00:14:27,650
But luxury like this comes at
a price.
251
00:14:27,680 --> 00:14:30,050
So, if I wanted to come here
and really show off,
252
00:14:30,080 --> 00:14:32,610
how much is the most-expensive suite
in the height of summer?
253
00:14:32,640 --> 00:14:35,450
It's roughly 8,000 Euro.
8,000 Euros!
254
00:14:35,480 --> 00:14:38,010
Yes.
But you could do me a deal, right?
255
00:14:38,040 --> 00:14:40,170
Mm, no.
THEY LAUGH
256
00:14:40,200 --> 00:14:43,170
Oh. OK. Right, where we going next?
257
00:14:43,200 --> 00:14:45,450
Prego.
258
00:14:45,480 --> 00:14:49,130
OK, so my wallet might not
stretch to a night at the hotel,
259
00:14:49,160 --> 00:14:51,570
but I can get a drink at the bar.
260
00:14:51,600 --> 00:14:53,890
I'm in luck, as the hotel makes
its own limoncello,
261
00:14:53,920 --> 00:14:56,090
with lemons straight from the tree.
262
00:14:56,120 --> 00:15:00,010
And I'm meeting mixologist Salvatori
to show me how it's done.
263
00:15:02,680 --> 00:15:04,850
Salvatori.
Hello, how are you?
264
00:15:04,880 --> 00:15:05,930
I'm good.
That's for you.
265
00:15:05,960 --> 00:15:09,090
Nice to meet you. What ingredients
go into a limoncello?
266
00:15:09,120 --> 00:15:13,330
Just the peel and the alcohol
for three-day infusion.
267
00:15:13,360 --> 00:15:17,210
After four days,
I prepare the water and sugar,
268
00:15:17,240 --> 00:15:20,290
I mix with the alcohol...
269
00:15:20,320 --> 00:15:22,410
Oh, it's that simple?
It's very simple.
270
00:15:24,080 --> 00:15:27,970
But these aren't any old lemons.
These are Amalfi lemons,
271
00:15:28,000 --> 00:15:30,850
a variety native to
this coastline of Italy,
272
00:15:30,880 --> 00:15:35,090
famous for its intense fragrance
and exceptional sweetness.
273
00:15:35,120 --> 00:15:37,250
Could I join in and do some?
Yeah.
274
00:15:37,280 --> 00:15:39,450
The secret is not to take the white.
275
00:15:39,480 --> 00:15:40,810
Oh, yeah.
OK?
276
00:15:40,840 --> 00:15:43,130
OK, so just the peel, not the pith.
277
00:15:43,160 --> 00:15:46,250
Please, take.
Thank you. Thank you.
278
00:15:46,280 --> 00:15:48,490
You have to tell me
whether I'm doing this right. So...
279
00:15:50,320 --> 00:15:52,130
OK.
It's not so good.
280
00:15:52,160 --> 00:15:53,130
No, it's good.
281
00:15:54,520 --> 00:15:57,490
It's perfect.
And what do we do with this?
282
00:15:57,520 --> 00:15:59,810
I put in the alcohol.
I can drop in here.
283
00:15:59,840 --> 00:16:02,170
Yeah. So this is...?
What percentage alcohol is this?
284
00:16:02,200 --> 00:16:03,450
It's 96%.
285
00:16:03,480 --> 00:16:05,090
96%?
Yes.
286
00:16:05,120 --> 00:16:07,570
OK.
...
287
00:16:07,600 --> 00:16:08,850
This one...
288
00:16:08,880 --> 00:16:10,210
It's fine?
289
00:16:10,240 --> 00:16:13,690
It's... literally just cleared
my sinuses out, that!
290
00:16:15,040 --> 00:16:19,450
And, now, I suggest you taste
the limoncello.
291
00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:21,570
Oh, so now we try the limoncello.
Yeah.
292
00:16:29,080 --> 00:16:31,690
Do you know what? That is amazing.
It's just delicious.
293
00:16:31,720 --> 00:16:34,170
And, like you say, sweet.
The lemon flavour, very fragrant.
294
00:16:34,200 --> 00:16:35,170
Yeah, fragrant.
295
00:16:38,920 --> 00:16:40,730
Oh, that is delicious.
296
00:16:40,760 --> 00:16:43,130
But be careful with this stuff,
it will blow your head off.
297
00:16:43,160 --> 00:16:44,410
Oh, I could drink that all day.
298
00:16:44,440 --> 00:16:46,410
I wouldn't be standing up long,
I don't think.
299
00:16:46,440 --> 00:16:48,290
Salvatori, thank you.
Thank you, very kind.
300
00:16:48,320 --> 00:16:49,330
Thank you.
Thank you.
301
00:16:49,360 --> 00:16:51,530
I'll take this with me.
Thank you, enjoy.
302
00:16:55,160 --> 00:16:56,810
You know,
there are times doing this job
303
00:16:56,840 --> 00:16:58,370
where I just wanna pinch myself.
304
00:16:58,400 --> 00:17:01,490
This is the Amalfi Coast, you can
see why people come here, can't you?
305
00:17:03,800 --> 00:17:05,890
Beautiful. Salute.
306
00:17:14,320 --> 00:17:16,890
The next morning,
it's an early start for me,
307
00:17:16,920 --> 00:17:19,090
as I bid farewell to
the Amalfi Coast
308
00:17:19,120 --> 00:17:21,650
and board the train at Solano
heading south.
309
00:17:23,880 --> 00:17:26,810
So, this is the embarkation point
for the next part of my journey.
310
00:17:26,840 --> 00:17:28,410
I'm heading down into Campania.
311
00:17:29,760 --> 00:17:31,250
And this is my train.
312
00:17:31,280 --> 00:17:33,570
It's an hour and a half
to my next stop,
313
00:17:33,600 --> 00:17:36,330
so there's time for a quick tour.
314
00:17:36,360 --> 00:17:39,410
Wow, this is a proper, snazzy,
modern train, isn't it?
315
00:17:39,440 --> 00:17:41,170
Two-storey cabins, as well.
316
00:17:43,680 --> 00:17:45,090
Very cool.
317
00:17:48,360 --> 00:17:50,170
Look at that,
and you can ride with the horses,
318
00:17:50,200 --> 00:17:52,090
against the horses,
or even side-saddle.
319
00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:01,290
This train is not only very posh,
it's very new
320
00:18:01,320 --> 00:18:05,650
and it's so new, in fact, that it's
got electric-bike charging points,
321
00:18:05,680 --> 00:18:07,290
isn't that fantastic?
322
00:18:07,320 --> 00:18:11,290
So, you bring your electric bike
onto the train, stick it on here,
323
00:18:11,320 --> 00:18:14,490
plug it in and charge whilst you're
travelling to the next location.
324
00:18:14,520 --> 00:18:16,090
How clever is that?
325
00:18:16,120 --> 00:18:18,290
The train may be brand-new,
326
00:18:18,320 --> 00:18:23,650
but where I'm heading next
is definitely about being very old.
327
00:18:23,680 --> 00:18:26,250
Arriving in Vallo delta Lucania,
328
00:18:26,280 --> 00:18:29,970
I'm only a short hop away from
the tiny village of Pioppi,
329
00:18:30,000 --> 00:18:32,650
one of the so-called
global Blue Zones
330
00:18:32,680 --> 00:18:35,010
where one-in-ten people
live to be over 100.
331
00:18:35,040 --> 00:18:37,210
Caio.
332
00:18:37,240 --> 00:18:39,930
So, apparently, the key to
long life is in this direction.
333
00:18:39,960 --> 00:18:43,210
Research has shown
it could be down to cucina povera,
334
00:18:43,240 --> 00:18:44,570
or peasant food,
335
00:18:44,600 --> 00:18:47,250
made with simple ingredients
like fresh vegetables,
336
00:18:47,280 --> 00:18:49,450
fish and olive oil.
337
00:18:49,480 --> 00:18:52,450
Keen to discover
the secret for myself,
338
00:18:52,480 --> 00:18:54,650
I've arranged to meet
lifelong resident
339
00:18:54,680 --> 00:18:58,050
and restauranteur
Delia Morinelli.
340
00:18:58,080 --> 00:19:00,930
But, first,
I've got to get to her house.
341
00:19:02,280 --> 00:19:05,050
HE PANTS
You know, nothing's flat here.
342
00:19:05,080 --> 00:19:07,250
And that's part of the
healthy lifestyle, I suppose.
343
00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:09,450
You're either... walking uphill,
or downhill and...
344
00:19:09,480 --> 00:19:10,530
HE PANTS
345
00:19:10,560 --> 00:19:12,810
...| suppose that's part of
what keeps them fit. I mean...
346
00:19:12,840 --> 00:19:14,690
HE PANTS
..I've only done a few flights
347
00:19:14,720 --> 00:19:17,570
in this Italian heat and look at me.
I'm soaking with sweat.
348
00:19:17,600 --> 00:19:19,210
Phew! Right.
349
00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:23,290
Ciao, Delia.
Ciao, ciao.
350
00:19:23,320 --> 00:19:25,770
Thank you so much for letting me
cook with you today.
351
00:19:25,800 --> 00:19:27,210
And what are we going to cook?
352
00:19:29,520 --> 00:19:33,010
This dish of anchovies stuffed
with breadcrumbs, basil,
353
00:19:33,040 --> 00:19:35,810
lemon and garlic
is typical local fare.
354
00:19:35,840 --> 00:19:39,290
The fish is caught nearby
and is high in healthy fats.
355
00:19:39,320 --> 00:19:42,330
So, we sprinkle a little breadcrumb?
OK, roll.
356
00:19:42,360 --> 00:19:44,250
Would you go open?
Ah.
357
00:19:44,280 --> 00:19:46,770
Si?
No, no!
358
00:19:46,800 --> 00:19:49,050
No? No. OK.
359
00:19:51,360 --> 00:19:53,490
I'm not very good at rolling, am I?
360
00:19:53,520 --> 00:19:55,490
THEY LAUGH
361
00:19:55,520 --> 00:19:57,530
That's a bit of a mess that,
isn't it, really?
362
00:19:57,560 --> 00:19:59,450
Sorry! I'll have another go,
let me go.
363
00:19:59,480 --> 00:20:03,610
So, anchovy, a little bit of
the breadcrumb...
364
00:20:05,360 --> 00:20:06,330
Si.
365
00:20:07,880 --> 00:20:09,770
Roll it up now, OK.
366
00:20:11,800 --> 00:20:13,970
I'm trying not to break it!
SHE LAUGHS
367
00:20:14,000 --> 00:20:16,690
Now in her late 80s,
I'm hoping Delia's willing to share
368
00:20:16,720 --> 00:20:20,250
the secret to Pioppi's
ageing population.
369
00:20:20,280 --> 00:20:23,850
I want to live to be 100.
How do I do it?
370
00:20:49,080 --> 00:20:51,850
Oh! That's interesting.
371
00:20:51,880 --> 00:20:55,330
My stomach... My stomach is almost
becoming another person already.
372
00:20:55,360 --> 00:20:57,450
There's almost two of me.
THEY LAUGH
373
00:20:59,760 --> 00:21:01,650
Yeah, every day, uphill, up, up.
374
00:21:03,920 --> 00:21:05,370
Just keep walking.
375
00:21:05,400 --> 00:21:07,330
OK, here they come.
376
00:21:07,360 --> 00:21:10,730
My carefully-crafted anchovies have
been cooked and are ready to taste.
377
00:21:13,720 --> 00:21:15,890
Oh, yeah!
378
00:21:15,920 --> 00:21:17,130
That's delicious!
379
00:21:17,160 --> 00:21:19,730
Belissimo! Do you want to try one?
380
00:21:24,240 --> 00:21:26,530
The hand is good? OK.
381
00:21:26,560 --> 00:21:28,250
Well, I think I did all right there!
382
00:21:28,280 --> 00:21:30,410
Grazie Mille.
Prego.
383
00:21:30,440 --> 00:21:33,570
THEY LAUGH
384
00:21:37,520 --> 00:21:39,410
I've got to go and get on
a train now.
385
00:21:39,440 --> 00:21:41,170
But I'm half minded to stay here.
386
00:21:41,200 --> 00:21:45,050
I mean, think about it, eat well,
live well and live to be 100.
387
00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:46,530
That's another 40 years for me.
388
00:21:48,000 --> 00:21:50,210
Simple food.
That's what it's all about.
389
00:21:52,560 --> 00:21:54,930
Yeah, I can't stay.
But I might come back.
390
00:22:00,040 --> 00:22:03,570
Next, I back on the train
and heading south towards Calabria,
391
00:22:03,600 --> 00:22:06,250
in the toe of Italy,
on the way to Mount Etna.
392
00:22:11,920 --> 00:22:15,010
I get a taste of pepperoncini
to blow your head off.
393
00:22:15,040 --> 00:22:18,050
Oh! Oh, don't believe them
when they tell you
394
00:22:18,080 --> 00:22:19,610
it's between jalapeno and cayenne.
395
00:22:19,640 --> 00:22:22,450
It's more like between Etna
and Vesuvius.
396
00:22:22,480 --> 00:22:24,170
HE CHUCKLES
It's on fire!
397
00:22:24,200 --> 00:22:26,370
And then it's a first for me,
398
00:22:26,400 --> 00:22:30,250
I'm crossing the sea to Sicily
by train.
399
00:22:30,280 --> 00:22:32,410
I've never seen anything like this,
have you?
400
00:22:32,440 --> 00:22:33,810
Isn't it incredible?
401
00:22:44,120 --> 00:22:45,770
I'm halfway through my journey,
402
00:22:45,800 --> 00:22:50,370
heading down into the toe of Italy
and finally onto Sicily.
403
00:22:50,400 --> 00:22:53,410
But, first, I'm passing through
a region on the mainland
404
00:22:53,440 --> 00:22:55,810
known for its spicy cuisine.
405
00:22:55,840 --> 00:23:00,850
So, we're going through Calabria now
and there's a local town, Diamante,
406
00:23:00,880 --> 00:23:03,090
where they hold
a pepperoncino festival,
407
00:23:03,120 --> 00:23:06,770
which is a kind of chili pepper,
which is really, really big...
408
00:23:08,840 --> 00:23:12,290
...in all of their cooking here,
it is the chili of the area.
409
00:23:12,320 --> 00:23:15,010
And I've got some before I came
on board to give them a try.
410
00:23:15,040 --> 00:23:19,050
Now, I'm told they're somewhere
between a jalapeno and cayenne,
411
00:23:19,080 --> 00:23:22,490
which actually shouldn't be too hot.
And I do like chili.
412
00:23:27,800 --> 00:23:28,770
Wow, it's warm.
413
00:23:30,040 --> 00:23:31,930
Wow.
414
00:23:31,960 --> 00:23:34,930
HE COUGHS
415
00:23:34,960 --> 00:23:37,090
That's...
416
00:23:37,120 --> 00:23:38,770
They lied about how strong it is.
417
00:23:40,040 --> 00:23:42,290
Maybe when it's dried, it's...
418
00:23:42,320 --> 00:23:43,930
a lot hotter, but that's...
419
00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:45,410
Good grief.
420
00:23:48,600 --> 00:23:50,770
That water hasn't helped at all.
421
00:23:50,800 --> 00:23:52,770
I bought a yoghurt here somewhere,
hang on.
422
00:23:52,800 --> 00:23:54,970
This is yoghurt, which is supposed
to be very good for...
423
00:23:57,560 --> 00:24:00,890
Oh!
424
00:24:00,920 --> 00:24:03,970
That's like putting
aloe Vera on sunburn.
425
00:24:04,000 --> 00:24:05,530
Flipping heck, that's still burning.
426
00:24:07,680 --> 00:24:09,410
Oh. Don't believe them
when they tell you
427
00:24:09,440 --> 00:24:11,410
it's between jalapeno and cayenne.
428
00:24:11,440 --> 00:24:14,930
It's more like between Edna
and Vesuvius.
429
00:24:14,960 --> 00:24:17,930
It's on fire!
HE CHUCKLES
430
00:24:17,960 --> 00:24:19,810
Oh!
431
00:24:21,080 --> 00:24:23,610
While I recover from
the explosive chili,
432
00:24:23,640 --> 00:24:25,210
at least I have these
stunning views.
433
00:24:26,880 --> 00:24:29,130
I have to say, I love Italy,
the coastline.
434
00:24:29,160 --> 00:24:31,330
And this is a great way to see it,
by train.
435
00:24:31,360 --> 00:24:32,770
I've been coming since I was 25
436
00:24:32,800 --> 00:24:35,250
and I don't think
I'll ever stop coming back.
437
00:24:37,080 --> 00:24:42,450
After 167 miles,
I'm changing trains at Gioia Tauro.
438
00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:48,850
Blimey, a bit of rain!
439
00:24:48,880 --> 00:24:51,890
Who would have expected that
this far south?
440
00:24:51,920 --> 00:24:53,210
Right!
441
00:24:53,240 --> 00:24:55,490
'And I'm hopping onto
the next train for'
442
00:24:55,520 --> 00:24:58,370
the final leg of my journey on
the mainland.
443
00:24:58,400 --> 00:25:00,810
This is the train that's gonna
take me to Sicily.
444
00:25:00,840 --> 00:25:03,450
I know what you're thinking,
there's a large body of water
445
00:25:03,480 --> 00:25:07,090
between the island and the mainland.
446
00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:09,050
And you're absolutely right.
447
00:25:09,080 --> 00:25:11,170
I'm excited to show you
how they do it.
448
00:25:16,520 --> 00:25:17,970
It's a busy train, innit?
449
00:25:27,320 --> 00:25:29,490
So, how do you board a train on
the mainland
450
00:25:29,520 --> 00:25:30,890
that takes you to an island?
451
00:25:30,920 --> 00:25:34,370
Well, it goes on a ferry,
believe it or not.
452
00:25:36,720 --> 00:25:39,610
Train ferries first appeared in 1833
453
00:25:39,640 --> 00:25:41,930
and the first one was built
in Scotland.
454
00:25:41,960 --> 00:25:45,330
The novel idea enabled railway lines
to be extended,
455
00:25:45,360 --> 00:25:48,450
where building a bridge was
too difficult, or too expensive.
456
00:25:49,680 --> 00:25:53,210
Today,
there aren't many left in operation.
457
00:25:53,240 --> 00:25:55,490
This is one of
the last remaining ones.
458
00:25:55,520 --> 00:25:57,330
It's an incredible feat
of engineering,
459
00:25:57,360 --> 00:26:00,530
but we will soon be boarding
a ferry whilst on the train.
460
00:26:02,280 --> 00:26:06,130
After 30 miles, we're approaching
the docks at Villa San Giovanni.
461
00:26:06,160 --> 00:26:10,330
And I still can't believe
I don't have to get off the train.
462
00:26:10,360 --> 00:26:13,010
It's all very exciting, isn't it?
463
00:26:13,040 --> 00:26:15,570
Oh, this is it, we're actually
approaching the boat.
464
00:26:15,600 --> 00:26:17,010
Oh, I hear the clicking, listen.
465
00:26:17,040 --> 00:26:20,050
TRAIN THUDS
466
00:26:20,080 --> 00:26:22,690
Do you hear that clicking? That's...
467
00:26:22,720 --> 00:26:26,690
The wheels running over
the join onto the boat. Here we go.
468
00:26:26,720 --> 00:26:28,450
Oh, my gosh, look at this!
469
00:26:28,480 --> 00:26:29,730
There's the quayside.
470
00:26:30,880 --> 00:26:34,090
We're actually going onto
the ferry now!
471
00:26:45,080 --> 00:26:47,650
The ferry docks to
a floating platform
472
00:26:47,680 --> 00:26:49,290
which allows for
the rise and fall of
473
00:26:49,320 --> 00:26:52,010
the tides and bridges to the wharf.
474
00:26:52,040 --> 00:26:54,690
They're clamped together to make
a near-seamless connection of
475
00:26:54,720 --> 00:26:55,930
the rails.
476
00:26:58,040 --> 00:27:00,490
Purpose-built train ferries
can be quickly loaded
477
00:27:00,520 --> 00:27:04,810
and unloaded by roll-on, roll-off,
just like car ferries.
478
00:27:06,000 --> 00:27:08,490
I have to say,
it's one of the weirdest things
479
00:27:08,520 --> 00:27:11,690
that I have ever done on a train.
480
00:27:11,720 --> 00:27:13,970
So, that's how to load it on board
the ferry.
481
00:27:16,560 --> 00:27:18,810
This is just nuts, isn't it?
Look at the rails here...
482
00:27:20,960 --> 00:27:22,650
...and the second half of
the train coming in.
483
00:27:24,120 --> 00:27:27,650
I've never seen anything like this,
have you? Isn't it incredible?
484
00:27:30,640 --> 00:27:32,890
The crossing takes only
half an hour.
485
00:27:34,640 --> 00:27:38,770
Just enough time to explore
the culinary delights on board.
486
00:27:40,840 --> 00:27:42,370
Ciao.
Ciao.
487
00:27:42,400 --> 00:27:45,330
Erm, due arancini.
Arancini?
488
00:27:45,360 --> 00:27:48,690
Arancino? Arancini?
Arancino. Arancino.
489
00:27:48,720 --> 00:27:50,050
OK!
NICK CHUCKLES
490
00:27:50,080 --> 00:27:54,010
So, I'm asking for a local delicacy
from Sicily in actual fact.
491
00:27:54,040 --> 00:27:56,290
Normally, rice balls.
492
00:27:56,320 --> 00:27:59,810
But, because we are heading
for Mount Etna... OK.
493
00:28:02,720 --> 00:28:05,010
...they're volcano-shaped!
Isn't that fantastic?
494
00:28:09,760 --> 00:28:12,490
Oh, it's very good.
It's got filling in it.
495
00:28:12,520 --> 00:28:14,210
What is in?
496
00:28:14,240 --> 00:28:16,450
Rice. Rice and tomato.
497
00:28:19,160 --> 00:28:20,130
Lovely!
498
00:28:21,480 --> 00:28:23,170
So, there's your volcano.
499
00:28:23,200 --> 00:28:26,730
It's got tomato lava inside.
HE CHUCKLES
500
00:28:26,760 --> 00:28:28,730
Soon, we're coming into dock.
501
00:28:30,560 --> 00:28:34,730
So, that is Sicily.
It's my first-ever visit here.
502
00:28:34,760 --> 00:28:36,330
And that's the city of Messina.
503
00:28:38,080 --> 00:28:41,090
And even on a day like today,
where it's overcast and cloudy
504
00:28:41,120 --> 00:28:42,410
and rainy, it's still beautiful.
505
00:28:44,160 --> 00:28:45,650
I can't wait to explore the island.
506
00:28:53,320 --> 00:28:57,850
Next morning, the first leg
of my adventure in Sicily begins.
507
00:28:57,880 --> 00:29:00,490
And this is what
I've been waiting to see.
508
00:29:00,520 --> 00:29:02,250
Mount Etna.
509
00:29:08,200 --> 00:29:11,730
2.5 times the size of Vesuvius
510
00:29:11,760 --> 00:29:14,850
and almost 3,500 m tall...
511
00:29:16,240 --> 00:29:20,010
...this is one of the most-active
volcanoes in the world.
512
00:29:21,160 --> 00:29:27,370
Producing frequent lava fountains
at around 50 eruptions since 1955.
513
00:29:35,120 --> 00:29:38,370
I'm told the best way to see
a volcano is from the air.
514
00:29:38,400 --> 00:29:41,570
Now, you can do it in a helicopter,
or you can do it in a plane.
515
00:29:41,600 --> 00:29:43,610
But I'm using neither
of those vehicles,
516
00:29:43,640 --> 00:29:46,610
I'm going up in one of these.
This is a gyrocopter.
517
00:29:47,760 --> 00:29:52,250
This lightweight aircraft
can fly lower and closer to Etna.
518
00:29:52,280 --> 00:29:54,450
And despite the bad weather
rolling in,
519
00:29:54,480 --> 00:29:57,490
I'm hoping for
some spectacular views.
520
00:29:57,520 --> 00:30:02,050
In charge of our volcano mission
today is pilot Franco Italiano.
521
00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:20,730
Almost immediately, we're into the
storm clouds, flying at over 70 mph.
522
00:30:25,040 --> 00:30:28,890
"Within seconds, the weather goes
from bad to worse...
523
00:30:28,920 --> 00:30:30,250
'and we can't see a thing.'
524
00:30:32,920 --> 00:30:34,890
We're getting battered by the storm.
525
00:30:37,280 --> 00:30:39,650
'We have to drop out of the cloud,
but, as we drop out,
526
00:30:39,680 --> 00:30:43,970
'we're too close to the trees.
This is genuinely terrifying.'
527
00:30:52,080 --> 00:30:54,210
After just 20 minutes,
it's too dangerous,
528
00:30:54,240 --> 00:30:56,610
time to abort our mission.
529
00:30:56,640 --> 00:30:58,610
At first, we can't see to land.
530
00:31:02,240 --> 00:31:04,090
But, near the ground, the fog lifts.
531
00:31:07,520 --> 00:31:09,810
'I'm actually shaking.'
532
00:31:09,840 --> 00:31:12,490
That was one of the most
terrifying things I've ever done.
533
00:31:14,560 --> 00:31:17,810
Franco was battling really hard
to try and get out of the cloud,
534
00:31:17,840 --> 00:31:19,450
but once we got into
the thick cloud,
535
00:31:19,480 --> 00:31:22,130
we were getting thumped all over
the place and battered.
536
00:31:25,080 --> 00:31:26,210
I'm not a religious man,
537
00:31:26,240 --> 00:31:28,410
but I was having a chat whilst
we were up there.
538
00:31:28,440 --> 00:31:31,250
"Just let me land and see
my little boy again,
539
00:31:31,280 --> 00:31:34,610
"see my family again."
HE LAUGHS
540
00:31:34,640 --> 00:31:35,730
Oh!
541
00:31:37,680 --> 00:31:39,090
HE SHIVERS
542
00:31:39,120 --> 00:31:41,970
I don't really like flying, either.
HE LAUGHS
543
00:31:42,000 --> 00:31:44,210
This is about as mad as it gets.
544
00:31:47,280 --> 00:31:49,770
HE LAUGHS
I'm gonna just have a sit down
545
00:31:49,800 --> 00:31:51,490
and a quiet moment on my own,
I think.
546
00:31:54,400 --> 00:31:55,450
When I recovered -
547
00:31:55,480 --> 00:31:58,770
and it took a while -
it's back on the train for me.
548
00:31:58,800 --> 00:32:01,330
I'm visiting one of
the best vineyards in Italy...
549
00:32:01,360 --> 00:32:02,730
with an umbrella.
550
00:32:02,760 --> 00:32:04,930
So, Marco,
I'm fascinated by the soil here.
551
00:32:04,960 --> 00:32:07,530
Because it's not
so much soil as rocks.
552
00:32:07,560 --> 00:32:09,970
Yes, cadaretta is rocks.
553
00:32:10,000 --> 00:32:12,570
It's the rocky soil in
the whole appellation.
554
00:32:12,600 --> 00:32:14,770
But somehow it works.
555
00:32:14,800 --> 00:32:19,170
And even the rain won't keep me
from scaling Mount Etna.
556
00:32:19,200 --> 00:32:21,410
She's finally come out to say hello!
557
00:32:21,440 --> 00:32:24,530
Mount Etna, that's the best view
I've had in
558
00:32:24,560 --> 00:32:26,530
the whole time I've been on Sicily.
559
00:32:26,560 --> 00:32:28,970
Oh, that's massively exciting.
560
00:32:35,520 --> 00:32:39,330
I'm on the final part of
my railway adventure through Italy.
561
00:32:39,360 --> 00:32:43,010
My journey began at Mount Vesuvius
on the mainland
562
00:32:43,040 --> 00:32:48,050
and I've arrived in Taormina at
the foot of Mount Etna in Sicily.
563
00:32:48,080 --> 00:32:51,890
I love these kinds of shops,
all full of herbs and spice mixes.
564
00:32:51,920 --> 00:32:54,490
Sun-dried, Sicilian tomatoes...
565
00:32:56,120 --> 00:32:58,970
...there's loads of peppers
and capers.
566
00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:00,610
Thanks to years of eruptions,
567
00:33:00,640 --> 00:33:03,130
the fertile soil surrounding
Mount Etna is perfect
568
00:33:03,160 --> 00:33:06,890
for growing everything from citrus
fruit to asparagus and pistachios.
569
00:33:06,920 --> 00:33:10,450
And this is... Etna's seasoning.
570
00:33:10,480 --> 00:33:13,370
HE LAUGHS
Fiery, I should imagine.
571
00:33:15,280 --> 00:33:18,330
It's believed that almost
three quarters of Sicily's crops
572
00:33:18,360 --> 00:33:21,530
are grown in the immediate vicinity
of the volcano.
573
00:33:23,880 --> 00:33:26,250
And there's one in particular
that has put Sicily
574
00:33:26,280 --> 00:33:29,810
well and truly on the map,
the humble grape.
575
00:33:29,840 --> 00:33:34,210
Etna's slopes are home
to 180 vineyards and, today,
576
00:33:34,240 --> 00:33:37,010
I'm visiting one of its finest.
577
00:33:37,040 --> 00:33:39,170
Despite the rain,
I've arranged a tour
578
00:33:39,200 --> 00:33:40,770
with owner Marco de Grazia.
579
00:33:42,600 --> 00:33:44,770
So, Marco,
I'm fascinated by the soil here,
580
00:33:44,800 --> 00:33:47,570
because it's not so much soil
as rocks.
581
00:33:47,600 --> 00:33:50,450
Yes. Well, cadaretta is rocks.
582
00:33:50,480 --> 00:33:53,650
It's the rockiest soil in
the whole appellation.
583
00:33:53,680 --> 00:33:55,450
But, somehow, it works.
584
00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:57,930
I know you produce several
different types of wine...
585
00:33:57,960 --> 00:33:59,650
That's right, that's right.
586
00:33:59,680 --> 00:34:03,170
...from different vineyards,
but it's the same grape variety,
587
00:34:03,200 --> 00:34:05,730
but they all taste different,
how does that work?
588
00:34:05,760 --> 00:34:09,970
We can have old soils,
ancient soils, or new soils,
589
00:34:10,000 --> 00:34:13,050
in other words, the volcano...
Really does flavour the wine?
590
00:34:13,080 --> 00:34:16,130
Yes, of course. Well, they're good
for making everything.
591
00:34:16,160 --> 00:34:19,770
It always delivers things that are
very fine and very perfumed.
592
00:34:21,080 --> 00:34:25,850
After drying off, I'm excited to try
Marco's volcanic wine.
593
00:34:25,880 --> 00:34:27,770
So, Marco, what are we trying now?
594
00:34:27,800 --> 00:34:31,490
We are trying an Etna Bianco,
its main grape is Carricante,
595
00:34:31,520 --> 00:34:33,450
which is native to this area.
596
00:34:33,480 --> 00:34:38,450
And it has a characteristic that
I find unusual in white wines,
597
00:34:38,480 --> 00:34:42,490
but that is common to this area,
which is a saline quality.
598
00:34:42,520 --> 00:34:44,690
I was gonna say!
You know? You get...
599
00:34:44,720 --> 00:34:45,970
Yeah, yeah!
You get that, right?
600
00:34:46,000 --> 00:34:47,970
Almost salty, yeah, yeah.
Exactly.
601
00:34:48,000 --> 00:34:51,730
Listen, it's obvious, Marco,
that you make beautiful wines here.
602
00:34:51,760 --> 00:34:54,650
But of all the places,
when you come to make your own wine,
603
00:34:54,680 --> 00:34:57,170
you do it at
the bottom of an active volcano.
604
00:34:57,200 --> 00:34:58,970
Yep.
THEY LAUGH
605
00:34:59,000 --> 00:35:03,570
Well! Yes, but, here,
the volcano's considered a mother.
606
00:35:03,600 --> 00:35:07,250
Because it really gives you so,
so, so much,
607
00:35:07,280 --> 00:35:11,170
that if, every so often,
it takes something back,
608
00:35:11,200 --> 00:35:13,410
it's nothing compared to
what it gives.
609
00:35:13,440 --> 00:35:16,970
It's a very strange relationship
between Sicilians
610
00:35:17,000 --> 00:35:19,250
and this very dangerous thing on
the top of the hill.
611
00:35:19,280 --> 00:35:21,450
It's something beautiful,
you're not afraid of it.
612
00:35:21,480 --> 00:35:24,290
The geology is unstable,
because an eruption could come,
613
00:35:24,320 --> 00:35:27,730
cover it up
and it creates a new soil.
614
00:35:27,760 --> 00:35:31,770
So, the volcano nearby...
615
00:35:33,000 --> 00:35:37,170
...is responsible for a lot of what
makes your wine special.
616
00:35:37,200 --> 00:35:38,330
Absolutely.
617
00:35:38,360 --> 00:35:40,690
Well, cheers to that.
Salute.
618
00:35:48,480 --> 00:35:51,170
I'm still determined to see
Mount Etna
619
00:35:51,200 --> 00:35:54,170
and a short hop from
the vineyard is Adrano Station,
620
00:35:54,200 --> 00:35:58,250
where I'm embarking on the final leg
of my Italian railway journey.
621
00:35:58,280 --> 00:36:02,170
The train I'm about to board is on
the Circumetnea line,
622
00:36:02,200 --> 00:36:04,530
which basically means,
"Circles Etna."
623
00:36:04,560 --> 00:36:06,170
Which is exactly what it does.
624
00:36:06,200 --> 00:36:10,610
I'm told it is one of
the most spectacular lines in Europe
625
00:36:10,640 --> 00:36:12,490
for views... of the volcano.
626
00:36:14,240 --> 00:36:15,410
Not today.
627
00:36:22,840 --> 00:36:24,250
Proper old train, innit?
628
00:36:30,400 --> 00:36:34,170
Building of
the Circumetnea began in 1889.
629
00:36:34,200 --> 00:36:37,450
It's a single track,
narrow-gauge railway line,
630
00:36:37,480 --> 00:36:41,690
stretching 70 miles along
the foothills of the volcano.
631
00:36:41,720 --> 00:36:44,330
Connecting rural communities
surrounding Etna,
632
00:36:44,360 --> 00:36:46,530
a real-life village commuter train.
633
00:36:48,120 --> 00:36:53,210
It will take me 20 miles
from Adrano Central to Randazzo.
634
00:36:54,520 --> 00:36:56,930
It's an hour's journey,
so there's time to settle in
635
00:36:56,960 --> 00:37:01,250
and hopefully, at last,
set eyes on the elusive Mount Etna.
636
00:37:01,280 --> 00:37:04,290
But it seems the British weather
has followed me to Sicily.
637
00:37:06,360 --> 00:37:08,450
Well, the volcano's up there
somewhere. But...
638
00:37:09,720 --> 00:37:11,210
...hidden by the cloud again.
639
00:37:12,560 --> 00:37:16,570
This train is undoubtedly
a hidden gem for tourists.
640
00:37:16,600 --> 00:37:18,970
But its real value is to the locals.
641
00:37:19,000 --> 00:37:21,290
Do you speak English?
A little bit.
642
00:37:21,320 --> 00:37:25,010
What is special about this line
that we are travelling on for you?
643
00:37:25,040 --> 00:37:28,810
I love the train,
because my father was a railway...
644
00:37:28,840 --> 00:37:30,610
He worked in the railways.
OK.
645
00:37:30,640 --> 00:37:33,090
So I born on the track, we can say.
646
00:37:33,120 --> 00:37:35,930
And this is a very special railway,
647
00:37:35,960 --> 00:37:38,930
because it links all
the small village around Etna.
648
00:37:38,960 --> 00:37:41,850
So, I want to see the mountain,
but...
649
00:37:43,280 --> 00:37:44,690
...she's hiding from me.
650
00:37:44,720 --> 00:37:47,770
You was unlucky,
because, today, very bad day.
651
00:37:47,800 --> 00:37:49,690
Oh, is it?
Its raining a lot.
652
00:37:49,720 --> 00:37:51,690
It's not like this all
the time in Sicily?
653
00:37:51,720 --> 00:37:53,290
We have beautiful weather,
654
00:37:53,320 --> 00:37:56,370
you will see the mountain
and it's very beautiful.
655
00:37:56,400 --> 00:37:58,530
Yeah, she is hiding from me.
She is... Yes.
656
00:38:00,160 --> 00:38:02,730
Maybe by the end, maybe. Grazie.
657
00:38:15,520 --> 00:38:16,890
Yep, this is my stop.
658
00:38:16,920 --> 00:38:20,650
I'm spending the night in Randazzo
and I've got a big day tomorrow,
659
00:38:20,680 --> 00:38:22,330
so, time to get some rest.
660
00:38:29,760 --> 00:38:33,530
It's the final day of
my amazing Italian adventure
661
00:38:33,560 --> 00:38:36,210
and, after two failed
volcano missions,
662
00:38:36,240 --> 00:38:39,450
I'm determined to see Mount Etna
before I leave.
663
00:38:41,600 --> 00:38:44,810
Etna is the most active volcano
in Europe.
664
00:38:44,840 --> 00:38:46,210
Over the centuries,
665
00:38:46,240 --> 00:38:51,170
its explosive eruptions have
wiped out whole towns and villages.
666
00:38:51,200 --> 00:38:57,010
In 2021 alone, volcanic eruptions
added 100 feet to its height.
667
00:38:58,320 --> 00:39:00,970
By the way, this is all lava flow
you can see behind me.
668
00:39:01,000 --> 00:39:03,890
And if you're wondering how
dangerous it is, this house,
669
00:39:03,920 --> 00:39:06,450
in recent history,
was consumed by it. And many others.
670
00:39:11,480 --> 00:39:14,410
Today, I'm driving up
the mountain...
671
00:39:21,360 --> 00:39:24,690
...and joining volcanologist
Alessandro Bonforte,
672
00:39:24,720 --> 00:39:28,850
who measures Mount Etna
for signs of volcanic activity.
673
00:39:30,840 --> 00:39:33,610
As we approach the foot of
the south-east crater,
674
00:39:33,640 --> 00:39:37,330
I can't wait to catch
my first glimpse of the summit.
675
00:39:37,360 --> 00:39:40,770
But the weather has turned again!
676
00:39:40,800 --> 00:39:43,650
Do you know what? I arrived in
Sicily, couldn't see the mountain,
677
00:39:43,680 --> 00:39:46,650
went up in a gyrocopter to try
and see the mountain,
678
00:39:46,680 --> 00:39:48,490
it just keeps running away
and hiding from me.
679
00:39:48,520 --> 00:39:49,810
Maybe it will come back.
680
00:39:49,840 --> 00:39:53,570
I don't know, weather forecast
is not so good for today!
681
00:39:53,600 --> 00:39:55,490
I'm absolutely gutted.
682
00:39:56,960 --> 00:39:59,650
So, we are standing in
the middle of several craters,
683
00:39:59,680 --> 00:40:02,450
so the magma, the lava,
is below us here.
684
00:40:02,480 --> 00:40:04,650
Yeah, sure.
685
00:40:04,680 --> 00:40:07,730
There is no chance of
a sudden explosion here,
686
00:40:07,760 --> 00:40:10,010
or there is a very small chance?
687
00:40:10,040 --> 00:40:14,770
Not now. And we are safely far from
the summit part of the volcano.
688
00:40:14,800 --> 00:40:18,370
It's not a sudden fracturing
of the volcano,
689
00:40:18,400 --> 00:40:22,250
cracking immediately
and magma pouring out, no.
690
00:40:22,280 --> 00:40:23,690
It's a slow process.
691
00:40:23,720 --> 00:40:27,250
It will take at least
some hours to happen.
692
00:40:28,800 --> 00:40:30,490
Glad to hear it!
693
00:40:33,520 --> 00:40:36,890
A short hike up the volcano
and we've arrived at
694
00:40:36,920 --> 00:40:39,690
one of Alessandro's many
monitoring stations.
695
00:40:46,680 --> 00:40:48,970
Wow, it's... It's buzzing in here.
696
00:40:53,280 --> 00:40:55,090
So, what are all
these machines doing?
697
00:40:55,120 --> 00:40:59,330
This is visual monitoring of
the summit part of the volcano.
698
00:40:59,360 --> 00:41:02,850
Monitoring of Etna's activity
is taken very seriously.
699
00:41:02,880 --> 00:41:05,410
Alessandro is responsible
for protecting
700
00:41:05,440 --> 00:41:08,530
around 500,000 residents
living nearby.
701
00:41:08,560 --> 00:41:11,370
This machine is
a superconducting gravity metre.
702
00:41:11,400 --> 00:41:14,450
It measures the very, very,
very little variation of
703
00:41:14,480 --> 00:41:17,330
the gravity here.
Does the gravity change then,
704
00:41:17,360 --> 00:41:20,050
depending on the potential
for eruption with a volcano?
705
00:41:20,080 --> 00:41:23,970
Yes, the gravity changes
depending on the mass you have
706
00:41:24,000 --> 00:41:25,450
beneath your feet.
707
00:41:25,480 --> 00:41:29,370
Wow. Which is more dangerous,
magma, or gas?
708
00:41:29,400 --> 00:41:32,290
Ah, the gas is the engine of magma.
709
00:41:32,320 --> 00:41:37,290
Magma is very dense material.
It cannot reach the surface alone.
710
00:41:37,320 --> 00:41:41,930
It reaches the surface,
because it produces gas, bubbling.
711
00:41:41,960 --> 00:41:43,930
Like when you open
a champagne bottle.
712
00:41:43,960 --> 00:41:46,210
This is what fires the cork in
the air? Yeah.
713
00:41:46,240 --> 00:41:48,890
So this is what blows
the top off the mountain? Exactly.
714
00:41:48,920 --> 00:41:52,090
Ah! Amazing, I didn't know
that about gravity.
715
00:41:53,200 --> 00:41:55,570
Alessandro, thank you very much.
Thank you.
716
00:42:02,320 --> 00:42:05,290
I've really enjoyed my time
with Alessandro
717
00:42:05,320 --> 00:42:07,010
and, just as I'm leaving,
718
00:42:07,040 --> 00:42:11,010
something magical happens,
I can't believe my luck.
719
00:42:14,920 --> 00:42:17,850
Look at this!
She's finally come out to say hello!
720
00:42:19,000 --> 00:42:20,290
Mount Etna!
721
00:42:20,320 --> 00:42:24,170
That's the best view I've had in
the whole time I've been on Sicily.
722
00:42:24,200 --> 00:42:26,610
What a reward for my efforts.
723
00:42:26,640 --> 00:42:28,730
Oh, that's massively exciting.
724
00:42:30,240 --> 00:42:32,890
Seeing this really is
the ultimate prize
725
00:42:32,920 --> 00:42:36,210
after what's been
an extraordinary trip.
726
00:42:36,240 --> 00:42:38,570
I've had some
unforgettable experiences...
727
00:42:38,600 --> 00:42:41,250
This is so Italian and fantastic!
728
00:42:41,280 --> 00:42:42,770
...full of eye-opening moments...
729
00:42:45,600 --> 00:42:47,970
'..jaw-dropping scenery...'
730
00:42:48,000 --> 00:42:49,250
What a view!
731
00:42:49,280 --> 00:42:51,210
'..And wonderful people.'
732
00:42:51,240 --> 00:42:54,570
Prego.
THEY LAUGH
733
00:42:54,600 --> 00:42:57,890
This is the passion and
the fire of the Italian people.
734
00:42:59,200 --> 00:43:01,490
How could you not
fall in love with this country?
55917
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